Installing water fixtures in the basement can be a difficult task.
Basement bathrooms and water fixtures can increase the functionality of your subterranean space, and can also increase the overall resale value of your home. Installing them, however, can be a challenge, as sewage pipes often run above the level of your basement. This means you need to pump used water up before you can pump it out. Fortunately, there are several basement plumbing options that can help.
Up-Flushing
Up-flushing systems use pumps to push dirty water up a series of tubes and then into a main sewage line. Manufacturers commonly produce them as up-flushing toilets, which rest on top of existing flooring structures. According to Natural Handyman, some of these toilets use grinding mechanisms that grind waste products into a more manageable foam before pumping them up and out. The downside, however, is that this grinding process can release an unpleasant odor. If you are planning to install a sink or shower alongside a basement toilet, the up-flushing variety could be a beneficial choice. As Bob Vila notes, some models feature hookups that allow other water fixtures to drain into them.
Sewage-Ejector Systems
Sewage-ejector systems differ from their up-flushing counterparts in that they use tank systems that capture waste water with the help of gravity before pumping it out. The systems come in two main varieties: below ground and above ground, the latter is also known as freestanding. According to Bob Vila, sewage-ejector models are more difficult to install, as you must dig into the basement's foundation to get the tank below the level of the flooring. The benefit of these systems, however, is that you can keep water fixtures, such as toilets, sinks and showers, at a normal floor-level, which will maximize space and comfort. With the other option, an above ground sewage-ejector system, the tank rests on top of the existing basement floor. This means in order for them to function, you must rest water fixtures on top of the tank, or at least elevate the fixtures above the level of the tank so that gravity can pull waste water down into it.
Gravity Only
In some instances the basements of homes may actually be above the level of sewer or septic lines. If this is the case with your home you will not need a pumping mechanism or tank and can simply connect water fixtures as you would on the higher levels of your home. Bob Vila recommends making a call to the public works department of your local municipality to figure out how deep the sewer lines near your home are, and whether using gravity-only is a viable option.
Tags: water fixtures, your home, above level, above ground, before pumping, below ground
Make over a metal lamp with a dramatic paint color.
A metal base lamp can last indefinitely, with the occasional rewire. Aside from wiring issues, metal floor lamps usually only sport surface-level cosmetic damage, such as scratched, dingy or dull lacquer. Paint a base to cover this damage. You also may paint new or like-new metal lamps to update the look of an old bras lamp or match it to existing decor.
Instructions
1. Unplug the lamp and remove any bulbs to reduce the risk of shattering during the refinishing process. Protect the electrical components of the floor lamp: Coil and tape the cord and plug, cover any switches or pulls, and completely tape off bulb sockets.
2. Clean the lamp's metal base with a damp, soapy sponge. Dry the piece with a clean towel.
3. Flake away any plating with a stiff, steel brush. Scuff all metal surfaces with fine sandpaper. Use a light touch for a paint-ready, textured surface. Stand the lamp upright.
4. Place the lamp on a drop cloth or newspaper either outside or in a well-ventilated area in which paint will not get on anything.
5. Vigorously shake the spray primer can for at least 30 seconds, then spray the lamp with even, steady strokes. Keep the can about 6 inches away from the lamp and hold the can perpendicular to the area you're painting. Wait for the primer coat to dry.
6. Agitate the spray paint can sufficiently before applying the first coat of paint. Apply light, even lengths of paint in continuous streams. Avoid spraying too much paint at once or too close to the lamp's surface, which causes dribbling and pooling paint at the lamp's base.
7. Wait for the paint to dry. If the paint looks uneven or too translucent, add an additional coat of paint.
Add light to the dining room with a swag chandelier.
Hanging swag chandeliers is a creative solution for anyone wishing to have removable lighting in places where no electrical boxes exist. Swag lamps feature long cords that you can drape from where the light hangs to the nearest outlet. Large, round make a modern, contemporary solution for a dining room chandelier or a masculine update in the bedroom. Add embellishments to create a romantic, whimsical vibe. White or cream-colored drum shades can easily be updated with fabric paint to create a chandelier that matches any décor and reflects your personality.
Instructions
1. Fit your selected stencil around your drum shade. Use painter's tape to secure if necessary.
2. Open a tube of fabric paint and gently squeeze the paint onto a paper plate. Dip a foam brush into the paint and gently dab the paint onto the drum shade through the stencil. Continue until the stenciled design is applied around the entire shade. Allow the paint to dry before peeling it off.
3. Apply a thin line of hot glue around the bottom perimeter of the drum shade. Press strands or pearls, or metallic beads or crystal beads, to the glue. Allow it to dry and trim off any excess.
4. Repeat the previous procedure, this time applying embellishments to the top of the drum shade.
5. Thread the cord of a light kit through the opening in the top bracket of the drum shade. Screw the pieces of the light kit together, following the directions included with the kit. Brands vary slightly, making it important to follow the recommended directions.
6. Measure the distance from the nearest outlet to the place where you want to hang the light. Add one foot to this measurement. Ensure your swag light's cord is equal to or greater than this measurement. Add an extension cord if necessary.
7. Mark the place where the finished chandelier will hang with a pencil mark. Add another pencil mark about one foot away, toward the wall where the outlet is located. Place another mark where the ceiling meets the wall. Add a final mark on the wall, halfway between the outlet and the ceiling. Screw hooks into each of these marks.
8. Measure the length of the cord. Cut a narrow rectangle of fabric about seven inches wide and 12 inches longer than the length of the cord.
9. Place the fabric faceup on the work table. Turn the rectangle so the short sides are on the top and bottom and the long sides on the right and left. Fold the right and left edges up together to create a tube. Pin the edges together. The back of the fabric should now be facing out.
10. Thread the sewing machine with thread that coordinates to the fabric. Set the sewing machine to a basic, straight stitch. Sew along the pinned edge of the fabric, removing the pins as you go.
11. Thread the cord through the fabric tube. Bunch it up as you go to cover the cord.
12. Hang the chandelier by looping the swag light's hanging loop over the hook placed where the light should hang. Loop the cord in its fabric tube over the remaining hooks to secure it in place. Plug in the cord.
A grid forms the structure for suspended ceilings. A ceiling tile fits into each grid opening. Most suspended ceilings hang four to six inches lower than the ceiling joists. This creates problems when you want to hang something from the ceiling. T-bar brackets get mounted to the item you plan to hang and then get hooked onto the suspended ceiling's grid.
Instructions
1. Hold a supplied spacer over each of the T-bar bracket's holes. Insert a T-bar clip into each spacer, and twist it clockwise until it is tight.
2. Adjust the clips to a 45-degree angle to the grid's bar on which you will mount the bracket. The clips must be parallel to each other.
3. Hook the clips to the grid bar. Finish tightening the clips with a flat-head screwdriver until the T-bar bracket is secured to the grid bar.
Tags: into each, suspended ceilings, T-bar bracket
Rewiring a lamp may be necessary to repair a broken lamp.
Rewiring a lamp with tight corners can be a challenge, but it's not impossible. A few preliminary steps can help to straighten out those difficult spots. Lamps may be smooth and finished on the outside while on the inside you may find a course surface and tight corners. By adding a few household items to the rewiring job the project can be simplified.
Instructions
1. Unplug the lamp and set it on a work surface. Remove the lampshade.
2. Remove the light bulb and set it aside.
3. Lay the lamp on its side. Pull up the felt covering, starting at the edge, on the bottom of the lamp to remove it, if your lamp has felt.
4. Hold the base part of the light socket -- the cylinder that the light bulb was screwed into -- and pull the top part of the socket up, removing it.
5. Loosen the two screws in the base of the socket that were uncovered by the removal of the top part of the socket.
6. Unwrap and straighten the part of the wires that are not insulated and are wrapped around the screws you loosened.
7. Unscrew the base of the socket from the lamp body and remove it by sliding it up over the ends of the wire.
8. Cut a length of thread the length of the lamp. Tie this to one end of a pipe cleaner and set it aside.
9. Twist the wires where they are not insulated together to form one combined wire. Bend the combined wire into a "j"-shaped hook.
10. Tie a loop in the end of the heavy thread on the spool. Put the loop over the wire hook. Bend the wire hook back on itself and wrap the hook's tip around its base to keep the thread from falling off.
11. Hold the insulated wire at the base of the lamp and gently pull the wire out of the lamp. When the end with the heavy thread comes out at the base of the lamp remove the thread from the wire hook. Set the lamp wire aside.
12. Tie the end of the sandpaper cord to the heavy thread coming out at the base of the lamp. Grab the thread at the top of the lamp and pull the sandpaper cord into the lamp. Hold onto the end of the sandpaper cord at the base of the lamp. Use a sawing motions to smooth the inside wire pathway. Pull the sandpaper cord out of the bottom of the lamp and remove it from the thread.
13. Set the pipe cleaner with the thread tied to one end next to the thread coming out of the base of the lamp. Tie the end of the thread coming out of the base of the lamp to the end of the pipe cleaner that does not have thread attached to it. Pull the pipe cleaner up through the lamp and then back down to clean the inside of the lamp.
14. Replace the pipe cleaner with a clean pipe cleaner. Use a bar of soap to coat the . Pull the thread coming out of the top of the lamp to draw the pipe cleaner into the lamp and lubricate the tight corners, and then draw it back down. Untie the pipe cleaner and set it aside.
15. Open the lamp rewiring kit and remove the new lamp wire. Twist the two non-insulated wires into a "j"-shaped hook. Slip the loop that is on the out of the lamp's base onto the hook. Bend the hook back on itself and wrap the hook's tip around its base.
16. Use the bar of soap to coat the portion of the lamp wire that will travel through the tight corners of the lamp. Pull the thread gently to move the wire up from the base to the top of the lamp until the insulated section starts to come out the top of the lamp.
17.Untwist the hook and remove the loop. Separate and straighten the two parts of the non-insulated wire section.
18. Select the base of the lightbulb socket from the kit. Pass the non-insulated wire section through the bottom of the socket base. Screw the base into the top of the lamp.
19. Wrap one of the two parts of the non-insulated wire section around the base of the head of a screw. Repeat this action with the other part of the non-insulated wire section around the other screw. Tighten the screws.
20. Push the top of the socket into place on the base.
21. Glue the felt back in place and replace the lampshade.
Tags: pipe cleaner, base lamp, thread coming, non-insulated wire, section
Asian bathroom themes are almost as diverse as the bathrooms they are created in. Themes range from rich and romantic to calm and spalike. Brainstorming Asian decor ideas and planning your approach before heading to the store will help to ensure that you know what you are looking for, that the elements of your space coordinate and that you save money by purchasing only what you really need to decorate your space.
Rich and Romantic
Creating a rich and romantic Asian-themed bathroom can give you and your love someplace relaxing to end your day. Begin with wallpaper that looks like printed Asian silk. Try finding a wallpaper in deep burgundy or royal blue. If possible, you might look for fabric wallpaper or ask a professional to put real silk on your walls and seal it so that it is safe from water damage and can be easily wiped down without causing damage. Purchase hand and bath towels in a neutral color that are edged and accented with Asian silks. Gold wall hangings or Asian writing can be framed and placed on the walls. Keep your soap and facial tissue holders simple by opting for something in gold, copper or bronze that has clean lines and no embellishment. Use bath rugs that resemble Asian carpets. If you cannot find those, silky shag bath rugs are a good substitute.
Asian Spa
An Asian spalike bathroom is ideal for creating an airy and cool space that helps you to feel the troubles of the world just melting away. Choose a light neutral color for the walls and a slightly lighter or darker color for your towels. Hang elegant paintings of peaceful Asian landscapes or architecture on your walls. They should be framed in clear glass frames with no border. Porcelain sink accessories in sea green, possibly with Asian writing on them, can help to tie everything together. Keep your bathroom rugs neutral by getting fluffy cream or white rugs to be placed near the bathtub and commode.
Bamboo Paradise
A bamboo-themed Asian bathroom can give you the feeling of being in touch with nature. Begin by finding bamboo-patterned wallpaper at your local home store. Decorate with burgundy accessories by purchasing matching towels, sink accessories and wall hangings. Tie a small piece of bamboo onto your soap and facial tissue holders using a piece of satin ribbon. Include gold and burgundy candles on a bronze tray on the bathroom counter to encourage a peaceful and well-lit ambience.
People and Culture
The people and cultures of Asia are incredibly diverse. Use to show them off. Collect photos from India, China, Japan and other Asian countries. Display them artfully on neutrally colored walls. Purchase bathroom accessories that allow you to personalize them using photos, and design them so that they coordinate with the photos on . Keep everything other than the photos neutral, by choosing white or ivory towels, and other accessories. Consider loading an MP3 player with music from all over Asia and setting it to play on a speaker system in your bathroom.
Tags: bath rugs, your bathroom, your walls, Asian Bathroom Decor, Asian writing,
Metal ceilings are becoming a fast favorite in new construction. Offering sleek appearance, optimal acoustic properties and ease of maintenance, metal ceilings can be used anywhere from office buildings to homes. Whether the finish is modern and smooth or antique and ornate, care and maintenance of metal ceilings, including those manufactured by Armstrong, is fairly simple and quick.
Dusting
You can use a cotton dust mop, static duster or feather duster to dust the ceiling, as often as needed, but typically once every 1 to 2 months. If the metal ceiling is located in a room or building where residues may build up, such as in a restaurant or tavern, do not try to dust the areas where residue is heaviest. Dust dry areas of the ceiling and proceed with other cleaning methods for the areas where residue exists.
Washing
A solution of warm water and a mild, nonabrasive dish detergent work well to wash metal ceilings. Use a soft sponge, wiping each portion of the ceiling gently to avoid scratching the surface. Once the surface is washed, use a soft, lint-free towel to dry each area thoroughly.
Tough Cleaning Spots
Metal ceilings that are constantly exposed to grease, grime, smoke or excessive moisture will need to be cleaned more often to maintain their durability and appearance. Use a grease-cutting dish detergent and warm water to remove built-up grease and nicotine. Gently wash the surface until all residue is gone, then dry with a lint-free towel.
Tags: areas where, areas where residue, dish detergent, lint-free towel, , maintenance metal ceilings
The Armstrong Company, known for its flooring, windows and doors, also provides ceiling options. A drop ceiling, also known as a suspended ceiling, hangs tiles down from the roof on a support structure. This type of ceiling is commonly found in basements or warehouses, where you need to access pipes or fixtures on the ceiling but want them covered so you can't see them. Properly installed supports and tiles will allow you to access the actual ceiling but will cover it up with a decorative flair.
Instructions
1. Locate all of your ceiling joists. The joists may be exposed on your ceiling, but if they are not, use a stud finder to locate the joists. If you have to find them, use chalk to mark both edges of the joists so you have them traced on your ceiling.
2. Measure from one side of the joist to the other and mark the exact center of the joist with chalk. If you had to outline the joists on your ceiling in chalk, use a different color of chalk to work with the centers so you can distinguish the two.
3. Snap a chalk line up the center of each joist. You want to install all fasteners in the center of the joists for the best hold.
4. Measure the width of your room, which runs parallel with the ceiling joists. Divide that number by the length of one of your drop ceiling tiles, and then add the remainder to the length of the tile. For example, if your room is 9 feet wide and your panel is 4 feet long, dividing 9 by 4 gives you an answer of 2 with a remainder of 1. Add the 1 to the 4 feet for an answer of 5.
5. Divide the final number by 2. Five divided by 2 is 2.5, which translates to 2-½ feet, or 2 feet, 6 inches. This is the length you will need for the border panels of your room to achieve a uniform look in the space.
6. Calculate the width of the border panels by dividing the length of the room by the width of the panel, adding the remainder to the width number and dividing by 2. This gives you the exact length and width you need for your border panels.
7. Make a mark on your wall at the height you want for the drop ceiling. Make sure to provide at least 6 inches of clearance between the tiles and anything above them for easier installation.
8. Hold the support molding for the tiles up to the mark you made in Step 7. Make sure that it is level against the wall. The bottom of the molding should line up with the mark you made. Trace the top of the molding onto the wall, and then use a level or chalk line to trace that top line all the way around the room so you have a guideline for installing the molding.
9. Nail the wall molding in place with the top of the molding sitting against the guideline you made in Step 8. Use 6d finishing nails to secure the molding in place every 6 to 8 inches as you go around the room. Cut the molding to fit as necessary with tin snips. For inside corners, run one piece directly into the corner and butt the other directly against it. For outside corners, cut the two adjoining ends to a 45-degree angle to join properly.
10. Measure out from one wall the width of the border panel you determined, running perpendicular to the joists. Snap a chalk line perpendicularly across all the joists. Measure 4 feet from that line and snap a second line. Continue until you have covered the whole room; the final line will sit away from the far wall the distance of the width of a border panel.
11. Screw wire fasteners into the spots where the perpendicular lines meet the center lines of the joists. The fasteners will be 4 feet apart from each other. These fasteners will hold up the bulk of the ceiling.
12. Thread wires through the holes in the fasteners. Wrap the wire around itself three times to ensure that it is firmly in place. Let wire dangle down from the wrapped section.
13. Attach a piece of string to the top of the wall molding under the rows of wires. Stretch the string so it sits level and connects to the wall molding on the opposite wall. Next, bend the wires at a 90-degree angle so the bottom corner of the bend rests on the wire. This will keep the runners for your tiles level. When all the wires are bent appropriately, remove the string.
14. Line up the first main runner or beam with the wall molding. Trim the runner with tin snips just after the slot that is closest to the border panel width from the wall --- you already have a perpendicular line marking this spot. The slot will hold the cross-beams in place. Trim the piece, using tin snips.
15. Turn the first beam so the cut end sits against the wall molding. Thread the bent string through the nearest hole and wrap it around itself three times to secure the beam to the ceiling. Trim away any excess wire, using tin snips. Repeat with all the holes in the main beam until it is secure against the ceiling.
16. Set the first cross-T piece against the wall molding running perpendicular to your first beam. Snap the cross-piece into the slot at the end of the first beam. If necessary, trim the end of the cross-T that rests against the wall to make it fit in the space between the wall and the first beam.
17.Work off the first beam and cross-T to install the grid over the whole room. Trim pieces as necessary, using tin snips. Remember to tie off all beams and snap in all cross-Ts. Butt adjoining pieces tightly together.
18. Install all full tiles into the grid. Skip the border areas for now. Angle the tiles upward against the ceiling so you can fit the entire tile above the grid, and then drop it down. The ledges on the edges of the tile should sit against the grid. Continue until all of the full panels are installed.
19. Cut the border tiles to fit, using a sharp utility knife. Cut the tiles to the measurements you determined at the beginning. Next, measure in 3/8 inch from each edge and make a pencil line. Cut halfway through the panel along each of the lines and peel off the top half of the panel. This provides you with the ledges used to hang the tile.
20. Set the border tiles in place the same way you did the full tiles. If you need to cut around ducts, vents or pipes, use a sharp utility knife to cut out the shapes. Continue until the entire ceiling is installed.
Tags: wall molding, , against wall, your ceiling, border panel, border panels
Use a roller extension pole to access high ceilings.
Most any amateur do-it-yourselfer knows apply a coat of fresh paint to an ordinary room. However, certain situations can complicate the application process and, sometimes, messes and even injuries can result. If you need to paint a room with high ceilings, you need to use specific painting tools to get the job done. You also need to employ these tools using the correct techniques, or you could end up with disappointing or dangerous results.
Instructions
1. Remove all items that might interfere with your ability to paint.
2. Cover all flooring with heavy-duty fabric drop cloths.
3. Slip a nap roller cover onto the roller frame and screw the frame into the extension pole. Pour 2 gallons of flat interior acrylic latex paint into the 5-gallon bucket.
4. Apply flat paint to the ceiling using the roller affixed to the extension pole.
5. Scale the ladder and use a 3- to 4-inch latex paintbrush to paint any areas that were inaccessible to the roller. Allow the ceiling to dry for two hours.
6. Wash all painting tools with water.
7. Apply satin interior acrylic latex paint to the walls using the roller attached to the . Use a new, clean nap roller cover.
8. Apply satin paint using a 3- to 4-inch latex paintbrush to any areas that were inaccessible to the roller. Access the ceiling line and the higher areas of the wall using the step ladder.
are a fun and easy way to add length and volume to your natural lashes. Celebrities, stage performers and regular "civilians" use false eyelashes to give their eyes a more dramatic pop. Most false eyelashes can be used more than once, but the lash glue and eye makeup can cause them to become dirty. Don't fret, though, because cleaning false eyelashes is easy and effective.
Instructions
1. Combine 1 tsp.of liquid soap or shampoo with 1/4 cup of lukewarm water in a small plastic bottle. Shake the bottle to blend the soap and water. Pour the soapy water into a small bowl.
2. Dip the soiled false eyelashes into the lukewarm water mixture, and let them soak for about 15 to 20 seconds.
3. Remove the false eyelashes from the water mixture. Using your fingers, gently rub off the glue residue and eye makeup. Hold the eyelashes under running water until they're completely clean. The water running off the lashes should be clear to indicate that the lashes have been sufficiently cleaned.
4. Place the on a piece of paper towel to allow them to air-dry. If you want them to dry faster, gently press the paper towel onto the wet lashes to absorb excess moisture.
A powder room is small in size, but there's no reason it can't be big on style. This guest bathroom, containing just a toilet and sink, offers a great opportunity for daring design ideas. You also can choose more formal accessories when decorating a half bath, since this is a bathroom primarily used by visitors.
Instructions
1. Look at the color scheme and style of the rooms surrounding your half bath. Choose whether you want to coordinate with them or take a step in a completely different direction. Sometimes staying in the color palette but varying the style is a good compromise.
2. Decide how formal you'd like your half bathroom to be. Traditionally, the powder room is about as formal as a living room or dining room, because this is the bathroom visitors use. Brocade window treatments, ornate faucets, silk wallpaper and even chandelier ceiling fixtures can dress up a half bath. But if you'd rather keep the decor casual or eclectic to reflect your personal style, these days anything goes.
3. Take a walk on the wild side if you'd rather not follow the traditional, formal route for half bath decor. Try khaki paint and safari details, or deep rose walls and antiqued gold hardware. Pick a fun theme like faux painted clouds over sky blue, or a cowboy or Tuscan theme. Find accessories to coordinate.
4. Convert your vanity into a bureau-style with sink or replace it with a pedestal sink to save space. A dated sink style is an eyesore even when the rest of your half bath is looking spiffy. An inexpensive way to improve the look of a vanity is by adding crown molding and then repainting or refinishing to create the look of furniture. Snazzy hardware is a quick fix, too.
5. Make sure your faucet fits with the style of your half bath. A sleek, modern-looking faucet won't match a Victorian English rose garden theme, while a very ornate faucet clashes with casual, contemporary decor.
6. Accessorize. Make sure light fixtures and window treatments mix well with your theme. Add magazine racks, guest towels, soap dispensers and even candles to bring a touch of hospitality to your half bath.
Tags: half bath, your half, your half bath, , powder room,
A simple design can dramatically change the look of a ceiling.
Although it may seem like a non-descript part of a room, ceilings can be just as decorative as the walls in a room. From a splash of color to a little bit of texture, ceilings can add the final touch of character a room needs. There are some economical projects to help pull it all together.
Wooden Ceiling
A wooden ceiling adds warmth and texture to an otherwise plain drywall ceiling. Just because it's wood, don't think dark. Wooden ceilings can be constructed from light-colored wood or stained with a warm color to suit your style and decor. Wooden ceilings are also good for covering the imperfections in existing drywall or plastic ceilings.
Tray Ceiling
Popular in master bedrooms and dining rooms, a tray ceiling commands center attention in a room with its raised platform that forms an octagonal or hexagonal shape. Special consideration should be given to the lighting placed within a tray ceiling as it is also part of this focal point.
Crown Molding and Decorative Trims
It is easy to expand the look of a room and naturally draw the eye upward by installing crown molding. Larger , in particular, is aesthetically pleasing when painted in an accent color that complements the primary color used in a room. Shallow soffits can be created with some inexpensive 2-by-4s and drywall. To accent the crown molding, use decorative trims such as medallions around a ceiling fan or chandelier.
Create a peaceful haven for sleep with a brown and blue color palette in the bedroom.
Design a brown and blue bedroom from the floor to the ceiling for a serene and coordinated look. Browns and blues are both cool tones that invoke a relaxing, peaceful atmosphere, ideal for a calming bedroom environment. Select a third, neutral color -- such as white or beige -- to break up the room and avoid an over-coordinated look. There are countless shades of brown and blue, ranging from pastel to very deep hues; choose a shade that best fits your taste and home style.
Instructions
1. Paint three of the bedroom walls in a deep shade of blue and paint the fourth wall, preferably without doors or windows on it, in a chocolate brown for an accent wall. Install brown carpeting or hardwood floors trim, baseboards and doors to complete the background for the brown and blue bedroom. Install a brown or wooden ceiling fan for overhead light as well as a cool breeze during warm weather months.
2. Use brown wooden furniture in the bedroom. Select furniture in simple designs for a clean look or elaborate furniture with ornate detailing for an elegant appearance. Place the headboard of the bed against the brown accent wall to create a focal furniture piece. shelving in the room and fill it with small blue and white bins or brown baskets for storage and organization.
3. Select linens for the bedroom based on the shades chosen for the walls and floor. For bedrooms with deep shades of paint and dark flooring, brighten the room with bedding featuring lighter shades of blues and browns with accents of white. Adorn the bed and any large chairs with a variety of blue and brown throw pillows. Hang white curtains on the windows in darker rooms to let in more light or opt for brown drapes to complement blue or light brown walls.
4. Hang pictures on the walls in brown wood frames along with a large, ornate mirror with a brown or white frame. Place blue and white candles around the room -- on the nightstand, dresser top and window sills -- to offer light and a relaxing atmosphere at night. Choose other various knick-knacks, such as statues, clocks and decorative chests, to arrange around the room. Find a large vase, in blue or brown, to place on the nightstand or dresser, and fill it with a large bouquet of faux white flowers to complete the serene brown and blue bedroom theme.
Tags: brown blue, Install brown, with brown, accent wall, around room
Armstrong commercial floor tiles are available in a wide variety of styles and colors to fit almost any taste. Commercial flooring tiles are designed for areas that experience high traffic volumes, and so are thicker and more durable than regular grade tiles. They are, however, are installed in the same manner as regular floor tiles. Cutting commercial tile is required in order to ensure that the tile fits around corners and door frames.
Instructions
Straight Edges
1. Measure the distance between the last installed tile and the wall or edge where the tile will be placed. Measure the space twice so that there is no mistake in the cutting process.
2. Lay the tile on a flat surface such as a work table or concrete. The knife can cut through the tile and damage the area below, so avoid cutting on the floor.
3. Measure and mark the tile where it needs to be cut. Use a square or a ruler to make straight lines.
4. Score the tile a few times with a utility knife or razor blade. Once the tile is scored, cut all the way through with the knife along the score line.
Irregular Lines
5. Place a piece of cardboard next to or under any items that you need to cut around. These may be door frames, bathtubs or pipes. Trace the shape of the item onto the cardboard.
6. Cut the traced edge out of the cardboard to create a template for the tile.
7. Measure the area where the tile will go to determine how far from the edge to cut the irregular line.
8. Place the cardboard on top of the commercial tile where the edge needs to be, and score the edge along the cardboard template.
9. Cut out the design or lines with a razor blade or utility knife. If the lines have intricate designs, tin snips should be used to get the lines as close to perfect as possible.
Tags: commercial tile, door frames, floor tiles, razor blade, tile where, tile will
A kitchen that transports you to another time and place, another state of mind -- that is what antique kitchen decorating ideas are all about. The look and feel of true antiques cannot be easily replicated, although many furniture companies attempt to create replicas from every era. Whether you choose Georgian, Victorian, Queen Anne or the Roaring 20's style, you can make your kitchen into a place of true style, elegance and charm with just a few choice antiques and simple decorating techniques.
The Foundation For An Antique Kitchen
Cabinets:
You can buy cabinets or have them custom built to give the effect of an aged patina. Choose the right materials and your new cabinets will last a lifetime and bring you years of joy, while giving the appearance of being antiques. You can also create an aged patina on your existing cabinets by using stain, brushes, sponges and sandpaper. There are two main methods: staining and distressing. See the references below for a complete how-to on these techniques. Be sure to pull the look together with antique cabinet and furniture hardware. The knobs and hinges make a big impact when they are true to the antique look as well.
Period styles:
You don't have to choose just one period style but if you want to coordinate the room into one complete look, then you can. From American, European and Art Deco to Art Nouveau and Empire, you can create an antique look in any room in a flash by choosing a matching set of period furnishings.
Accessories:
Just a few choice antiques will give your kitchen great impact. Group all similar collections together for the best effect. Antique plates look very nice hanging in a plate rack on the wall or on stands. Antique oil paintings, even replicas or prints, will can add drama and authenticity to your setting.
Antique tablecloths and linens:
These truly give a room an antique atmosphere. Nothing sets the nostalgic mood like vintage tablecloths, napkins, place mats, hand towels or runners.
Floors and rugs:
Vintage-style wood flooring looks grand in an antique kitchen decor. You can add volumes of antique ambiance with vintage throw rugs or area rugs.
Eclectic Style
If you just can't settle on one period or style, then choose them all with an eclectic décor. All you need to pull this shabby chic into a beautiful room is a central color or matching textures and themes. You might have a Queen Anne sideboard, a Karastan rug, Blue Willow place settings and a 1930s vase overflowing with roses, but if you pull them all together with coordinating colors, it can look fabulous.
Tags: aged patina, antique kitchen, antique look, choice antiques, look together, period style, Queen Anne
Ceilings don't typically get a lot of attention. Most homeowners don't spend a lot of time gazing up at their ceilings examining the texture. Ceilings usually go unnoticed until there is a problem, like a leak that causes a watermark. Suddenly a homeowner will find himself with a number of questions about apply ceiling texture paint. Texture paint is simple to work with and is a project that can easily be handled by a handy homeowner
Instructions
1. Tape the areas around the edge of the room to prevent painting them accidentally. Remove all furniture from the room or cover it carefully with drop cloths. Cover the floor completely with drop cloths.
2. Put on goggles, a mask and a hair net. Painting above your head gets very messy.
3. Climb the step ladder and begin painting the areas next to the wall and any cabinets or trim using a trim brush. Paint about three inches in toward the middle of the room.
4. Pour texture paint into a roller pan. Paints range in the amount of texture from smooth to popcorn. Choose a texture that matches the existing texture. Or, if starting from scratch, choose any texture that you like. Attach a roller to a long handle and dip your roller into the pan and saturate all sides. Choose a looped texture roller. Paint a 4-foot by 4-foot area with a thin coat of paint.
5. Paint the next 4-foot by 4-foot area while the first spot is still wet. Go back over the edges of the first section to blend. Repeat this process with the entire ceiling.
6. Add a second coat of texture paint. Apply this paint in a slightly thicker coat, using the same method used to apply the first coat. Allow the paint to dry overnight.
7. Paint the ceilings for color. Texture paint does not come in a wide range of colors. If you do not like the color of the texture paint, you can paint over it with any paint you like.
Tags: 4-foot 4-foot, 4-foot 4-foot area, 4-foot area, drop cloths, texture paint, , texture that
Bronze isn't new -- after all, the Bronze Age is long over -- but it is a fabulous and fun way to bring a little glamour to your space. Statues, weapons and vases have all been cast in bronze and used to decorate homes, but you can find bronze wall art anywhere from a Renaissance Fair to your local department store. Steer clear of bronze clocks and frames -- try to find something new to dazzle and delight.
Instructions
1. Place two or three strong bronze pieces in the room if you have bold wall art. If you're using small pieces, group them together to achieve the effect of one complete piece with many smaller components. Don't overwhelm the room.
2. Create a theme with bronze pieces. If you've found a bronze Celtic symbol, don't pair it with an Asian decoration. In most cases, the room will feel off-balance if you don't select a theme before you start hanging your bronze decorations.
3. Go abstract. Many bronze wall decorations aren't a specific shape or made to represent something else. Sometimes they're simply a creation of an artist's mind. Find something that speaks to you and goes with the decor in your room. If you have soft lines and rounded edges, stick with curves and swirls. If you have a harder, more angular room, try squares, rectangles and triangles.
4. Try a bronze-framed mirror. Don't stick with a traditional square frame. Circular mirrors, bronze swirls or other types of frames will look more artistic than a traditional bronze mirror frame.
5. Find a wall that is often illuminated by the sun. Since bronze will shine in natural light, it will look stunning. If you don't get a lot of natural light, try placing it near area or track lighting. Direct light on the bronze will make it a focal point of the room.
6. Decide what you'll put on the wall before hanging it. If you have photos, paintings or other wall decorations up, bronze may clash or overwhelm them. Rearrange your wall to make room for your bronze, if necessary. As a rule, your eyes should be able to settle on a wall -- they shouldn't be pulled from item to item displayed on the wall.
7. Go with your gut. If you want five strong bronze pieces and think it'll look great, then hang them up. Check out how they look; if you like them, keep them up. Your room should be an expression of yourself and the most important thing is that you like it.
Tags: , bronze wall, bronze will, natural light, room have
Recessed lights work particularly well in kitchens, providing diffused light that offers good visibility in all areas. By remaining visibly invisible, the recessed light is also a subtle fixture that can work with any décor style. Because of the flexibility of the types of , individual fixtures can be directed toward specific spots to highlight art, a work station or a seating area. The fixture can add drama to a space and yet remain hidden.
Instructions
Designing Recessed Kitchen Lighting
1. Measure the kitchen and draw the measurements on graph paper. Indicate all solid walls, cabinets, islands and the position of appliances and any sinks. Mark the location of current light switches that operate ceiling lights in the kitchen. Often, recessed lighting will replace other kinds of lighting.
2. Tie string to a pendulum with a pointed end. One person climbs the ladder with the end of the string and holds it until the pendulum is directly over counter top areas where light is required. Usually there will be two, three or more recessed lights following the lines of the eat-in area of the counter top. These are noted first.
3. Use the pendulum to note the location of other kitchen fixtures, like the sink, that require good lighting. With each choice, mark the spot on the plan, converting each foot of space to one-quarter inch on the graph paper. These positions will determine the location of spot lighting requirements in the room.
4. Use the pendulum along the walkways of the room to establish the location of more diffuse lighting. In general, the central ceiling should have just enough recessed lighting to create good visibility and for the lighting fixtures to appear balanced. This is determined by the size of the fixture being used and the required spacing of the fixture based on the ceiling height and distance to the surfaces being lit.
5. Refer to the manufacturer's recommendations for the light fixtures being selected for the kitchen to determine the final spacing. More than one kind of recessed light is commonly used in a room. Some lights are fixed, facing down, while others pivot or direct light in angled directions. Tailor your nonspot choices to work with the light fixture placement choices while still providing general light on their own. Keep in mind that your spotlights will probably be on different switches from your general lighting. Mark the plan with the finished locations and label each spot with the type of fixture .
Tags: recessed lighting, being used, fixture being, fixture being used, good visibility, graph paper
With some basic knowledge and the proper tools, you can make your own lighting upgrades in the home.
Few home improvement projects are more satisfying or as easy as a lighting upgrade. Materials are relatively inexpensive and with some careful pre-planning, the work should go relatively smoothly. This article assumes surface-mount ceiling light fixtures only although almost any configuration could be adapted from the basic techniques written about here. This article also assumes that the house wiring already in place is up to local code and in good and safe condition.
Instructions
1. Locate and mark with a pencil where the new light fixtures are to located on the ceiling. If the ceiling is inaccessible from the floor above -- such as an unfinished attic -- use a stud finder to make certain that there is not a joist sitting where you want a light fixture to be. If so, you will have to place the fixture on either side of the joist.
2. Using an electrical box as a guide, use a pencil to trace the outline of the box on the ceiling where the fixtures are to go.
3. Cut holes at the tracings using a drywall saw.
4. Fish lengths of electrical wire from hole to hole making the length of wire about two feet greater than necessary to span the holes. Cut cable using linesman's pliers. Use the drill and 5/8 bit to put a hole through the center of any joist that may be blocking a wire. If the joist cannot be accessed from the floor above you will need to remove enough of the ceiling to place the drill at the joist. Use a sharp utility knife to cut out a rectangular section of the ceiling. Save this removed piece to patch the ceiling afterward.
5. Insert the free end of at each hole into an electrical box and clamp the wires. Plastic boxes require that you push the wire through a friction clamp. Metal boxes require a Phillips or slotted screwdriver to drive the clamp onto the wire. Make sure there is at least eight inches of wire inside the box.
6. Insert boxes in respective holes. Old work boxes will have two crews that are to be tightened once box is pushed so its open face is flush with the ceiling surface. Heavier lighting fixtures will require boxes attached to joist spanning brackets which should be attached to joists. Follow manufacturer's instructions for installation.
7. Remove the original fixture to expose wiring at original fixture box. Make sure that power is off before this is done. Clamp an electrical cable to the original fixture electrical box that connects to the string of new fixture boxes. You have a choice of continuing to use this box as a fixture mount or you can place a correctly-sized plate over it and use it as a junction box. If you do, most codes require that the wires inside the box remain accessible and not buried behind Sheetrock.
8. Rip the sheathing of all cable ends back to the clamps in each electrical box with a cable ripper. There should be a white wire, a black wire, and an uninsulated copper wire. Remove 3/4 inch of insulation from the end of each wire with a wire stripper. Connect all white wires together, all black wires together, and all copper or green wires together at each electrical box with wire nuts. Once you check all connections, switch the power back on and test the lighting fixtures for operation.
Tags: original fixture, wires together, boxes require, each electrical, each electrical with, each wire
Change your brass to bronze with a painted faux finish.
Shiny brass hardware, whether it be a doorknob or a light fixture, was popular in homes in the 1980s, but as time passes, so do decorative tastes. For those brass pieces that no longer fit in, there's the option of a more subtle Venetian bronze look. Buying all new hardware can be expensive, but you can change out the old brass for new bronze with a bit of faux finishing. Apply a few spray-painted colors and you can give yourself the look of bronze without the high cost.
Instructions
1. Remove the brass hardware using a screwdriver to take out the screws holding it in place.
2. Clean the hardware thoroughly with mild soap and water, using a cloth to remove any dirt that might interfere with the paint adhesion. Pat the brass dry with a clean cloth.
3. Place masking tape over any area of the hardware that you don't wish to paint.
4. Lightly roughen the surface using a piece of fine-grit sandpaper to provide a slight texture to which the paint can adhere. Without such texture, the paint is likely to peel off. Wipe the hardware down with a tack cloth to remove any sanding residue.
5. Place the piece on a flat work surface covered in newspaper, with the part that will be against the door or wall facing down so that you can work on all of the exposed surface at once.
6. Spray the brass with black self-etching primer, which helps to build adhesion further between the brass and the paint. Build up a coat consisting of three thin layers of the black paint. Use a back and forth motion to apply the paint, beginning the spray slightly prior to hitting the hardware, then ending the spray slightly after you've gone past the other edge. Turn the hardware in place while spraying to make sure you cover the entire piece. Allow the paint to dry completely for the time suggested by the paint manufacturer.
7. Spray the brass with a coat of copper paint. Use the same spraying process that you used with the black paint to give the piece complete coverage. The black primer should help darken the copper a bit and deepen shadows in any lines on your object, helping them to stand out against the copper more. Allow the copper spray paint to dry completely.
8. Cover the copper paint with a thin layer of antique bronze paint. Keep the bronze layer thin enough to be sort of translucent -- you should be able to see the copper paint beneath the bronze. Allow the paint to dry thoroughly and then remove the masking tape. Return the now-bronze-looking hardware to the spot or fixture from which you removed it.
Tags: brass with, copper paint, , black paint, brass bronze, brass bronze with
Turn a flea-market find into an envied lighting fixture in your home. Old brass chandeliers don't have to be junk or take up space in your garage. Give your brass chandelier an update by spray painting it in your favorite color. A red or green chandelier makes a funky addition to a kitchen, while a royal blue or purple brings a little of Paris into a bedroom. Be creative. Look through design magazines to get an idea of how you can use chandelier color in your living areas.
Instructions
1. Lay out a tarp in an outdoor space with lots of air circulating.
2. Unscrew the bulbs from the chandelier. Wrap up all the exposed wires and the open parts of the chandelier with painter's tape.
3. Put on a pair of goggles and a mask that covers your nose and mouth.
4. Shake up the for about one minute.
5. Spray the exposed brass with gentle, light coats of paint. Allow your first coat to dry.
6. Spray on a second coat. Allow the paint to dry.
Home improvement can include anything from installing a door knob to installing crown molding. If you've never installed crown molding before, you may feel a little hesitation, but fear not. With careful attention, diligence and a mindful approach regarding the old adage "measure twice and cut once," you can install crown molding.
Instructions
1. Measure each wall where the crown molding will be installed so that you can purchase the correct amount. Use the stud finder to locate the wall studs so that later you can nail the crown molding directly to the studs. Use a level to determine if the walls or ceiling are not level. If you find that there are uneven areas, you can compensation for those with join compound or caulk after you have affixed the molding to the wall.
2. Measure the first piece of molding and cut a straight edge so that both ends of the molding fit flush against the adjoining walls. Take another piece of molding and turn it over so that the flat surface is face up. Take the end of the molding to be coped to fit over the piece of molding already nailed to the wall and place it in the miter saw and cut it at a 45-degree angle. Mark the mitered edge with a pencil. Take the coping saw to the mitered edge, and saw out any remaining wood. Cut the other end of the molding straight so it's flush again the adjoining wall. Take the piece of molding and nail it to the wall with the coped end fitting perpendicular over the end of molding already nailed to the wall. Repeat this process to install the remaining molding.
3. Use caulking to fill all corner joints of the molding if you are going to paint the molding or use wood putty to fill the corner joints if you are going to keep a natural wood look.
Armstrong ceiling systems come in a wide variety of styles. Armstrong suspended ceilings are functional and easy to maintain if they are properly installed. Proper installation includes installing the L channel that attaches to the wall level around the entire room and the ceiling wires that support the ceiling's main tees. Renting a rotating laser will speed up the installation as well as ensure that the L channels are level. Laying out the main tee locations on the floor will allow you to properly locate the suspended ceiling wires.
Instructions
1. Measure the length of the room. Divide the length of the room by the length of one ceiling tile. Add the remainder to the length of the ceiling tile. For example, if the room length is 13 feet and you are using 4 foot long ceiling tiles, you would divide 13 by 4 and have 3. Add the left over 1 foot to your ceiling tile length of 4 feet, which is 5 feet. Divide the 5 foot length by 2, to give you the length of your border tile of 2 1/2 feet or 30 inches. Perform the same operation for the width of the room, with the exception of using the 2 foot width of your ceiling tile as opposed to the 4 foot length.
2. Determine the height of the ceiling. You need to allow a minimum of three inches to install and remove the ceiling tiles. Leave an additional 2 inches of height if you are installing drop-in lights. Place a pencil mark at the finished height of the ceiling. Hang the rotary laser per the manufacturer's instructions. Turn on the laser. Set the laser 3 inches below your finished ceiling height. Place the laser guide against the wall at one corner of the room. Place a mark 3 inches above the laser line to mark the finished ceiling height. Continue marking both walls at each corner of the room. Turn off the rotary laser. Snap a chalk line between the corner marks on each wall to show the finished ceiling height.
3. Locate the vertical wall studs with the stud finder. Place a pencil mark at each stud, 1 1/4 inches above the finished ceiling height.
4. Secure the L channel to the wall by running a 2-inch wood screw into each stud, while holding the L channel on the chalk line. Cut the L channel to length with the aviation snips if it is longer than the wall that you are attaching the L channel too. Install the L channel around the entire perimeter of the room.
5. Using the tape measure and carpenter's pencil, mark the center of the room's length on the floor of both sides of the room. Stretch the chalk line between the two centerline marks. Snap the chalk line on the floor to mark the center of the length of the room. On the floor of both sides of the room, place a pencil mark four feet from your center chalk line. Snap a chalk line between the marks. Continue the procedure until you have all of the four-foot main tees marked on the floor with a chalk line.
6. Place the laser plumb bob on the chalk line at the center of the room, 2 feet from the wall. Stand the ladder off to the side of the laser plumb bob. Secure a ceiling wire clip with the drill and a 2-inch wood screw on the ceiling joist nearest the laser point of the plumb bob, but in-line with the laser mark. Pace a 1 foot bend in a length of suspended ceiling wire; feed the wire through the mounting clip. Pull the ceiling wire over itself and turn the two pieces of ceiling wire over itself 3 times with the lineman's pliers. Measure over two feet and perform the procedure again. Repeat the process until all the ceiling wires have been secured to the ceiling joists. When all of the ceiling support wires are secured, turn on the rotary laser.
7. Cut the main tees to the length of the room with the aviation snips. If the room is longer than a main tee, splice the tees together per Armstrong specifications. Lay the main tee across the L channels you mounted earlier. Cut the ceiling wires 1 foot below the tee. Attach the laser guide to the main tee. Place a 90 degree bend on the ceiling wire, 3/4 of an inch above the bottom face of the main tee. Thread the ceiling wire through the pre-punched hole in the main tee that is closed to the ceiling wire hanging plumb. Pull the wire until the laser guide shows that you are at ceiling height. Secure the wire by making 3 tight wraps as described in step 6. Perform the same operation until all the main tees are suspended with the ceiling wires.
8. Insert the cross tees into the main tees. Start the first cross tee at the border dimension that you figured in step 1. Slide the cross tee into the main tee, and slip the cross tee tabs into the pre-made slot of the main tee. Repeat the process for the other side of the cross tee. Continue installing cross tees 2 feet apart until you have all of the cross tees installed.
9. Lay the ceiling panels into the suspended ceiling. Cut the border panels to fit with a utility knife. Always mark and cut on the finished side of the ceiling tile to avoid marring the panels' finish.
A wood stain will give a ceiling and an entire room a sense of warmth.
Some say the floor is the most overlooked area when it comes to room decor, but it's actually the ceiling. Many homeowners will spend lots of time examining different types of hardwood flooring or carpet or rug samples before they ever think about adorning the ceiling in any way. This need not be the case, particularly if you have wood ceilings. Wood ceilings practically beg for stain. In some ways ceilings are easier to stain that floors, as you don't need to coat ceilings with a final finish of polyurethane to protect them, since ceilings are essentially no-traffic areas.
Instructions
1. Remove all unnecessary and transportable pieces of furniture from the room. Cover all unmovable pieces of furniture with drop cloths. Cover the floor with drop cloths to protect it.
2. Set up a scaffolding in the middle of the room, high enough so you can easily reach the ceiling with a paint roller but low enough so you don't hit your head.
3. Pour your oil-based stain into a paint roller pan. Set your paint roller in the basin. Pull the roller through the stain and up the tray's ridged ramp, then roll it back down into the stain, and up again, until the roller is saturated but not dripping. Apply the oil-based stain to the ceiling above you, making even, uniform strokes. Use an extension handle to reach areas that you can't easily get to.
4. Allow the stain to soak for 20 minutes. Wrap a lint-free cloth over the sponge part of a sponge mop and secure it with rubber bands. Wipe off the excess stain with your mop head. Repeat the entire process with a second coat of stain.
Tags: paint roller, drop cloths, oil-based stain, pieces furniture, , with drop cloths, your head
Light colored paint drips and splatters tend to stick out like a sore thumb on stained and varnished wood surfaces. Unfortunately, most attempts to remove paint from wood result in scratches and chips to the surface you're trying to salvage. If you need to remove white paint from a wood ceiling, a few techniques will remove the blemishes without causing damage to the surface you are working on.
Instructions
1. Remove any furniture or clutter that may interfere with your ability to access the ceiling.
2. Spread plastic drop cloths to catch any dried paint that may fall during the removal process.
3. Apply furniture polish to the paint on the wood ceiling to help loosen it. Use a coarse brush to scrub at the paint. Scrub in a circular motion, moving counter-clockwise.
4. Apply furniture polish to the paint. Scrape at the paint using the plastic putty knife. Continue scraping until all of the paint has been removed.
5. Apply mineral spirits to the paint if you were unable to remove it with the furniture polish. Scrape at the paint using the plastic putty knife. Continue scraping until all of the paint has been removed.
Tags: furniture polish, Apply furniture, Apply furniture polish, been removed, Continue scraping, Continue scraping until
Hang streamers from the ceiling to add a festive touch to any event.
If you're looking for an inexpensive way to jazz up a room for a party or an event, consider hanging streamers from the ceiling of the room. Streamers come in an array of colors, are inexpensive and can be easily acquired, as they are available at most party and craft supply stores. In addition to being inexpensive and colorful, streamers are also an easy decoration option, as all that is required to hang them is some tape and a little bit of creativity.
Instructions
1. Apply a piece of tape to the end of a streamer. Hang the end of the streamer on the ceiling in the corner of a room.
2. Twist the streamer. Slowly unroll the streamer from the spool and loosely twist it to create a spiral effect.
3. Drape the streamer across the ceiling to the opposite corner of the room. Continue to twist the streamer as you pull it across the room, allowing it to slightly sag. Cut the streamer off of the spool. Use a piece of tape to affix the streamer to the ceiling.
4. Repeat the process, hanging another streamer in another corner of the room and draping it to the . Remember to gently twist the streamer as you stretch it across the room. Cut the streamer off of the spool and use a piece of tape to affix it to the of the room.
Tags: corner room, opposite corner, , across room, from ceiling
If your ceiling tiles do not contain asbestos, you can throw them in the municipal trash. Removing tiles, encapsulating them in plastic trash bags and putting them out for the weekly trash pick up, or hauling them to the dump, is a dirty job that requires a bit of preparation, but it's a doable project for the average homeowner. However, if your tiles were installed in the 70s or earlier, they probably contain asbestos and asbestos tiles should not be removed by an unlicensed homeowner. In many jurisdictions around the country, asbestos ceiling tiles must be removed by a qualified and licensed contractor and disposed of in accordance with specific rules, which your contractor will follow. If you are unsure if your tiles contain asbestos, contact your county health department to have your tiles assessed. Better safe than sorry.
Instructions
1. Cut a small piece from a representative ceiling tile using a sharp knife. Wear a breathing mask and goggles when making the cut and wash your hands and clothes thoroughly. Seal the small piece of tile (a 1-by-1 inch piece is plenty) inside a freezer bag and label it if there is any question at all about the tiles containing asbestos.
2. Take the tile sample to your local county health department and ask them to analyze the tile for possible asbestos content. Unless the manufacturer guarantees that the tiles have no asbestos, assume any tile manufactured in the 1970s or before contains asbestos.
3. Remove all furniture from the room where tiles will be removed, assuming the tiles contain no asbestos. Seal all doors with plastic sheeting, tape over all possible openings.
4. Wear long sleeves and long pants, goggles, gloves and a respirator. Shift and allow tiles to simply fall through a metal framework if the tiles are simply sitting on top of the frame. Put all tiles into , seal and then double bag inside another plastic trash bag. Seal the second bag as well.
5. Tear tiles down using the claws of a claw hammer if the tiles are glued to a sub-ceiling. This will be a messy, dirty job. Make certain that you are wearing a good respiratory mask as breathing the tiny pieces of fiberglass in the ceiling tiles can be dangerous to your health. Remove all other people and animals from the house before the project begins.
6. Bag all tiles inside plastic trash bags and put each bag inside of another plastic trash bag (double bag) and seal both bags. Do not put more than approximately 50 lbs. of old ceiling tiles into any one bag.
7. Remove any glue and remaining pieces of old tiles from the sub-ceiling with your putty knife and a hammer. Insert the flat edge of the putty knife blade under the edge of a glop of dried glue and tap on the handle of the knife with your hammer to force the blade under the glue. Pop off all chunks of old glue in this way. Place all hunks of glue into trash bags, double bagging and sealing both bags.
8. Put old (non-asbestos) ceiling tiles (inside doubled trash bags) into the regular municipal trash pick up, following all rules in your area for labeling construction waste and follow any rules for total allowable weight.
9. Vacuum the room thoroughly with a shop vac then wipe down all surfaces with damp cloths, washing out the cloth as required to keep it reasonably clean, and then damp mop the floor to remove as much dust and other debris as possible before returning furniture to the room.
Soundproofing a room is important in music studios.
Although soundproofing acoustical tile is generally not required to soundproof a larger room for recording music, if you utilize multidirectional speakers in a smaller room, record live amplifiers, vocals or drums, covering the ceiling with acoustical deadening tiles can help you reduce the amount of ambient overtones produced by sound bouncing off the ceiling.
Instructions
1. Measure the square footage of the room with a tape measure. To do so, measure the width and the length of the ceiling and then multiply the numbers. For example, if the room measures 12 by 12 feet, your square footage is 144 feet.
2. Divide the square footage of the tile into your room's square footage. A common tile size is 12 inches or 1 square foot. A second common tile size is 24 inches or 2 square feet. This will tell you how many tiles to purchase.
3. Apply a bead of construction adhesive to the back of the first tile. Create a line around the perimeter of the tile and then form an X, connecting each corner of the tile.
4. Position the tile in one corner of the ceiling and then place the tile against the ceiling and hold it for a minute. This will allow the adhesive time to set up and secure the tile in place.
5. Apply adhesive to a second tile in the same manner as the first. Place the tile next to the first tile so the edges butt together and then press the tile against the ceiling. Repeat this process for the entire first row.
6. Cut a tile to the correct width with a pair of scissors if the last spot in the first row will not accept a full sized tile. After cutting the tile, apply the adhesive and secure the tile to the ceiling.
7. Repeat the process for each additional row. As a note, make sure each tile butts up against the next to avoid areas where sound can vibrate.
Tags: square footage, first tile, against ceiling, ceiling Repeat, ceiling then, common tile,
Luxury bathrooms are a cut above your standard bathroom design. With high-end fixtures such as spa tubs, steam showers and surround-sound audio systems, these luxurious bathrooms need an elegant design scheme that will fit with the upgraded fixtures. Whether you need a modern, traditional or contemporary design plan, you can create a bathroom that is as luxurious as the new fixtures.
Contemporary
If you choose a contemporary decor scheme for your new luxury bathroom, choose elements that are sleek and often constructed of industrial elements. Select stainless steel and glass vanities with built-in sinks or low-profile vessel sinks in either glass or stainless steel. Choose stone flooring, such as slate, or consider a concrete floor. For decoration, choose one bold color, such as bright red or yellow, and add only a few accents in that color, such as a floor rug or one large piece of wall art. You can also include natural elements, such as large potted plants with vibrant green foliage, to soften the hard edges of the contemporary design and make the bathroom more inviting.
Traditional
For a luxurious, traditional bathroom, choose pieces that reflect comfort as well as luxury. Choose furniture-style vanities in rich wood finishes, like cherry, oak and mahogany, and consider hardwood flooring in the same tones. Marble and granite work well for both flooring and vanity tops, but avoid black or dark gray tones, as this will give your bathroom a contemporary design feel and interrupt your traditional finish. For wall colors, choose a soft color. You can go with a neutral, such as beige, or select a muted shade of your favorite color. Select accents in pairs to provide the balance required in a traditional . For example, place plants potted in matching urns at either end of the vanity, and groupings of similar photographs in wooden frames on the walls.
Country
Though country decor is often more casual than contemporary or traditional design, you can still use country-style design in your luxury bathroom. Choose upscale country elements, such as a copper pedestal or claw-foot tub or an antique furniture-style vanity. Pick flooring in hardwood with lighter tones, such as white oak or pine. For wall colors, consider traditional country colors, like sunny yellow, soft pink, sage green or sky blue. Complete the country feel of your bathroom by adding accents. Look for vintage photographs in antique frames and create groupings of three or four on the walls. Use vintage tea towels hung on antique hooks for hand towels and add antique porcelain, ceramic or cut-glass bottles to the vanity top to hold necessities in style.
Tags: contemporary design, bathroom choose, color such, design scheme, elements such, luxury bathroom,
Crown molding is available in a variety of materials.
Crown molding has been used for centuries and can be traced back to the later Renaissance period, according to the Alamo Remodeling website. Using crown molding will add character to the transition point between the ceilings and the wall. Traditionally, molding was carved out of plaster or hardwood; however, today different materials are available.
Wood
A wide range of wood choices are available to make decorative crown molding. Made from milled hardwood, choices include poplar, oak, ash, hickory, alder, mahogany, cherry and maple. Many designs and styles are sold, and designs can be intricate. Wood molding can be expensive, is not fireproof and is susceptible to water damage such as swelling and rot.
Plaster
Molding made from plaster is offered in a variety of decorative patterns. Plaster molding does not burn, warp, shrink, expand or emit toxic fumes; however, it is high maintenance. Ornamental plaster crown molding is generally used on plastered walls and is expensive because it is not available in stock form and must be custom manufactured.
Medium Density Fiber
Medium density fiber (MDF) used in crown molding is a wood-based composite fabricated from wood fibers like sawdust with a synthetic resin added. MDF is environmentally safe, according to the Go Crown Molding website. Additionally, MDF is resistant to warping, expansion and will not split when it is cut.
Polyurethane
Cost effective and versatile, polyurethane crown molding is easy to install and maintain and comes in a wide range of decorative designs and styles. One type of polyurethane molding is flexible, making it easy to use around curved walls. Polyurethane is resistant to weather, wear and tear, scratching, erosion and impact.
Vinyl
The use of vinyl gives molding the old look of plaster. When used where there is extreme moisture, vinyl will not swell or shrink. Vinyl is not affected by insects and will not peel, blister, pit, corrode, rust or rot.
Styrofoam
Styrofoam makes a lightweight crown molding that is durable, inexpensive and that adheres to many kinds of paint. Styrofoam is not affected by insect damage and will not decay, crack or rot. It will, however, burn or melt and release toxic fumes, according to Go Crown Molding.
Tags: according Crown, according Crown Molding, crown molding, Crown Molding, crown molding,
Getting to line up isn't always easy, but the effort will be well worth it when you're finished.
Installing crown molding around a ceiling can add a beautiful touch that instantly upgrades any room. But if you're trying to do the measuring and cutting on your own, it's absolutely crucial that you take your time and have the proper tools. Remember, the trick to getting the angles correct so that the molding lines up at the corners. One way to make this job easier is to tackle one corner at a time.
Instructions
1. Measure the perimeter of the ceiling where the molding is to be installed. Buy enough crown molding to fit the measured perimeter, plus a few extra feet to compensate for any mistakes.
2. Draw a plan for hanging the crown molding. Sketch the room where it will hang and highlight which corners are going to be the most visible. You will have two basic types of corners: inside and outside. Whichever corners are most visible are the ones you want to be extra careful lining up.
3. Measure and cut a piece of crown molding that will have one flat end marking the end of the molding run. Hang it with a hammer and nails with all edges flush against the wall and any corners.
4. Hold up a piece of crown molding to the wall next to the piece hanged. Put the end of the molding against the hanged molding and draw a line at a 45-degree angle where you're going to cut it to fit against the hanged molding. This line doesn't have to be perfect, it's just an estimate for now.
5. Take the piece of molding and attach it to a table with C-clamps. Cut a 45-degree angle using a miter saw.
6. Test the fit against the hanged molding. Make minor adjustments with a miter saw, or use a file and sandpaper to get the fit just right.
7. Once the angle fits, look at the next corner. If it's an outside corner, cut the other side of the crown molding into a 45-degree angle. If it's an inside corner, leave the edge alone and just set it flush against the wall. Hang the molding with a hammer and nails.
8. Cut the next piece of crown molding at a and test the fit with the corner already hanged. Make minor adjustments with the miter saw, or use a file and sandpaper to get the fit just right. Keep repeating this step, and test each corner's fit before hanging the molding.
Tags: , 45-degree angle, hanged molding, against hanged, against hanged molding, piece crown
A chair rail is one way to dress up and make a plain room look more interesting--not to mention garner a little more attention from prospective buyers. Following these steps, you'll learn how this simple addition can add character and style with minimal cost and effort.
Instructions
Get Materials and the Room Ready
1. Measure the linear footage needed to cover the length of your planned chair rail installation. Add 10 percent to this figure for waste and mistakes.
2. Select the material and finish you want for your new chair rail at a lumberyard or home improvement center.
3. Buy your trim in lengths that will require few splices as possible. (Very long walls may have to be spliced; 14 to 16 feet is about the longest you will find, and these longer pieces are more susceptible to warping and damage.)
4. Stain, finish or paint all the wood to your satisfaction, then allow the finish to dry thoroughly.
5. Determine the height of your chair rail and mark a straight level line on all walls where the rail is going to installed.
Putting Up The Chair Rail (Inside corners)
6. Cut the first piece to length with a regular 90-degree cut going into the corner. Using a simple miter-cut for inside corners maybe tempting but this often leads to unsightly gaps and misaligned joints because the corners of a room are almost never true 90-degree angles.
7. Cut with a coping saw (see Glossary) the second piece in the shape of the profile of the molding so that it can butt neatly against the face of the first piece.
8. Use the miter box and a fine-toothed backsaw to make a cut on the second piece that reveals the profile of the molding (in other words a 45 degree miter cut with the tip pointing into the corner).
9. Cut away the excess wood along the back side of this profile line with a coping saw. Err on the side of removing too much rather than too little; only the outermost edge of the coped molding will be seen.
10. Use a utility knife to remove any excess material you missed with the coping saw. Be careful that you do not cut into the exposed face of the molding. Hold the piece in place to test the fit and do more carving if necessary.
11. Once the fit is acceptable attach the rail to the wall with 6d finish nails into wall studs. Counter sink all nails with a nail set. Use wood putty to cover holes and finish to match.
Putting Up The Chair Rail
12. Mark outside corners by butting one end of the molding in place (this may mean leaving enough extra length to go an inch or so longer than the wall; remember to take into account if one end is a coped joint). Allow the end to extend past the corner. Make the mark exactly even with the corner of the wall.
13. Use this mark as the short point of your miter cut for the outside corner. The other side of the outside corner will be cut with an opposite angle. Once the fit is acceptable attach the rail to the wall with 6d finish nails into wall studs. Counter sink all nails with a nail set. Use wood putty to cover holes and finish to match.
14. Using "Corner Blocks" is another option. Corner blocks are pieces of wood trim used in the angle of both inside and outside corners. Corner blocking adds a more detailed decorative touch to the trim. It also reduces all corner cuts to simple straight cut "butt joints."
15. Choose one of several styles when you pick out your chair rail molding. Make sure to get the proper amount of inside and outside pieces to complete the job.
Tags: outside corner, with coping, your chair, your chair rail, acceptable attach, acceptable attach rail