Whether the bathroom you're decorating is in a cabin in the woods or in a suburban home that you hope will feel like it's located in the wild, the idea behind cabin-style decor is to bring the great outdoors in.
Colors
Earth tones are the color of choice for a cabin bathroom. Greens, tans and earthy browns all blend well to create an outdoor atmosphere. You can incorporate these colors in the towels, area rug, shower curtain and accessories.
Your Design Style
If you're a hunter, consider framing an antique ad for guns and hanging it on the wall. A duck decoy sitting on the tank of the toilet can add a bit of whimsy to the room. A small canoe hung on the wall is the perfect place to store your grooming supplies.
Extras
Candles add ambiance to any room. Choose a candle that will add color and fragrance to your space. Consider a light switch cover that coordinates with the rest of the room, and look at the array of vanity lights that are on the market, as there is sure to be one that complements the space.
Caution
You're likely dealing with a small space when decorating a bathroom, so go easy on the number of accessories. The idea is to use a few pieces with impact, rather than crowding the room to the point where it's no longer functional.
Small decorating touches have big style impact in the bathroom.
If your bathroom has a case of the "blahs," but your budget is severely stretched, you don't necessarily need to hold off on giving the room a new look. There are plenty of cheap bathroom decorating ideas -- both big on style and easy to implement -- that can help you give your space a star makeover.
Setting the Stage
If you're handy with a brush and can afford a gallon or two of paint, repaint for a dramatic, yet easy bathroom makeover. You can give the space an entirely new look with a relatively small expenditure and only a few hours of work. If you like your existing accents and accessories, choose a color that coordinates. If not, start from scratch and pick a hue you've always dreamed of using. The bathroom is the perfect place to try a fun new color.
Curtain Call
A shower curtain inhabits a fairly large visual field in a small bathroom. Replacing the shower curtain, much like repainting, results in a dramatic difference in the overall appearance and style of your bathroom. Since it's such an inexpensive and temporary option, you can afford to make a bold choice. Choose a pattern that incorporates several different colors to allow for more flexibility in the rest of your decorating scheme.
Supporting Characters
Towels and rugs also play an important role in the look of your bathroom, and definitely detract when they're damaged or dingy. Implement an effective, cheap and fun bathroom decorating strategy; replace only the towels that need replacing and don't worry if new towels don't exactly match existing ones. Aim to coordinate the new with the old in an interesting color combination.
A New Role
The key to frugal bathroom decorating is finding fun new uses for items you already have. Scrounge around the house for small furnishings and accents that might be put to better use as part of your new bathroom decor. Stack wooden crates from the garage and use them as shelves, assign a basket the task of storing toilet paper or pilfer a pretty platter from the kitchen to hold bottles of lotion on your vanity. If you plan to shop for new bathroom accessories, stick to the clearance racks and maintain an open mind. A discounted dish in the kitchenware section of a store might look stylish as a container for soaps.
Behind the Scenes
A bathroom always looks its best when the surfaces are sparkling. For an applause-worthy bathroom makeover, clean the room from top to bottom. Even the smallest decor change seems more exciting in an environment that's fresh, clean, and shining. Clear the clutter, tackle those rust stains and get up close and personal with every corner; it may not qualify as fun but doesn't cost a dime.
Tags: your bathroom, bathroom decorating, bathroom makeover, shower curtain
Drop ceilings make for an easy way to cover pipes, ducts and wires in basements and commercial buildings while still allowing access without having to repair holes in sheetrock or other permanently affixed ceiling materials.
Drop ceilings consist of 2-by-2-foot or 2-by-4-foot tiles suspended on a grid system. The system is supported by hanger wires that are attached to the ceiling above and hold up the grid. The grid system consists of main tees which span from one side of the room to the other and 2- and 4-foot tees which interconnect between the main tees to fill out the grid. An L-shaped piece known as a wall angle or wall track is placed on the wall and it supports the ends of the tees as well as the edges of the ceiling tiles that butt the wall.
Laser Level
The quickest and easiest way to lay out a drop ceiling is to attach laser levels to the wall at the desired height of the ceiling. The laser levels itself and you just make marks on the wall along the path of the laser beam.
An alternative to the laser level is a standard level. Place the level horizontally on the wall at the desired height and mark along the level. Slide the level over and repeat until the room has been marked.
Tin Snips and Pliers
These snips are used to cut the mains and the tees to length where they butt the wall and also to cut the wall track. Pliers are used to fold and twist the hanger wire around the ceiling clips and the tees.
Rivet Hole Punch and Rivet Gun
The rivet hole punch is used to punch a hole through the wall track and the ceiling grid along the perimeter of the room so that a rivet can be inserted to keep the drop ceiling locked together.
The rivet gun is used to set the pop rivet in the hole made by the hole punch.
Alternatively, you can use a drill to make the hole if you don't have or can't find a rivet hole punch.
Powder Actuated Tool or Drill
The powder actuated gun is used to attach the hanger wire clips to the underside of the ceiling on jobs that have a steel or concrete ceiling.
For wooden ceilings, a drill is all that is needed to set the clips. The drill can also be used to attach the wall angle to the wall.
Large Speed Square
A 12-inch speed square is used to periodically check that the grid members are at right angles to each other. This is especially useful when installing grid on a diagonal.
Utility Knife
The utility knife is used to cut perimeter tiles to size, and to also cut holes in the ceiling tiles for any sprinklers, can lights or other objects present in the ceiling.
Rolling Scaffold
Not a must, but a rolling scaffold makes the job go a lot easier. Easy to set up and able to fit through standard door openings, this scaffold allows you to keep all the needed tools and materials at hand and push yourself along as you complete sections. Plus you have the bonus of not having to climb up and down a ladder all the time.
To "cope'' molding means to join it together so that there are no gaps on inside corners, which can happen with a miter cut if the corner isn't exactly square. With a cope cut, instead of butting the ends of the trim together at an angle, you set one side straight against the wall, and carve out its profile on the other piece so that the two pieces fit snugly together. This gives the illusion of a miter cut, but it will work even if the corner isn't completely square.
Instructions
1. Measure the wall from the corner. Transfer the measurement to a piece of molding. Use your miter saw to cut the molding straight across at the measurement.
2. Set the piece of molding against the wall, with the straight-cut side in the corner, butting into the adjacent wall. Secure the molding with your trim nailer, shooting pairs of nails every 12 to 16 inches.
3. Measure the wall on the other side of the corner. Transfer the measurement to a piece of molding.
4. Set the molding on your miter saw in the position it will sit against the wall. Turn the blade 45 degrees inward, pointing it toward the main part of the trim. Make the cut.
5. Cut around the edge of the miter cut, using your coping saw to follow the contours of the exposed wood where it meets the face of the molding. The cut should end up having the same shape as the profile of the molding.
6. Set the piece of moulding on the wall, with the coped-cut end against the first piece you installed. The coped-cut piece should fit over the face of the other piece. Use your trim nailer to secure the second piece to the wall.
Tags: against wall, measurement piece, measurement piece molding, piece molding, your trim nailer, corner Transfer
1950s decor included specific kinds of ceiling tiles.
Watching period films or looking at images from certain eras can be inspiring when decorating your home. The cozy kitchens of the 1950s, for example, might make you nostalgic, and inspire you to decorate your own home in the same way. Though 1950s ceiling tiles can be hard to find today, and may present certain risks, they can still brighten up your kitchen or bathroom with a cheery retro look.
Style
The 1950s saw a dramatic change in ceiling tiles, as the metal tiles that had been popular before World War II fell out of fashion because of the metal needs of the war effort, and new tiles took their place. While some homeowners chose to eschew tiles altogether in favor of drywall, others embraced the then-modern look of an acoustic "drop ceiling," where tiles were installed to create a second ceiling below the original.
Effects
1950s acoustic drop ceilings affected their rooms in a variety of ways. They could hide unsightly wires and other electrical fixtures that homeowners deemed unseemly. In addition, they made rooms seem smaller due to the decreased space between floor and ceiling. Hung by wires, these ceilings insulated rooms from noise coming from above.
Materials
Because they were often installed using asbestos, both living with and removing 1950s ceiling tiles can be hazardous to your health. This is especially true with drop ceilings, which offered a measure of insulation and relied on asbestos to accomplish this effect.
Style
Vinyl tiles were used in the 1950s, as this modern material helped block sound. The tiles were often decorative, with floral or geometric shapes that added color and interest to interior spaces. At the time of publication, companies such as Celium produce replica tiles that reproduce this style and make it accessible to modern decorators. Tiles are most commonly available in 12-inch squares, which can be combined to cover large areas.
Today
Because of the asbestos used with many 1950s ceilings, installing vintage ceiling tiles is not recommended. However, you can use replica tiles in the 1950s style to create a drop ceiling. Today, drop ceilings in the 1950s style represent a good option for basements and other areas where you may have exposed electrical fixtures, or where you wish to muffle noise.
Tags: ceiling tiles, drop ceilings, tiles were, 1950s ceiling, 1950s style, acoustic drop
Modern ceilings often require scaffolding so you can reach all areas safely.
A vaulted ceiling is a desirable architectural element in a home; yet, some homeowners may feel the textured popcorn ceiling is dated. Replacing the popcorn texture with new texture is possible, but is a rather large project. Popcorn textures and other plasters are beneficial to large rooms because the texture works as a sound barrier. When working on large areas of high ceilings, it is best to use scaffolding for safety reasons.
Instructions
1. Carry all furniture and decor items from the room. Try to not leave any items in the room, unless you must. Wrap and cover remaining items with large sheets of painter's plastic. Cover the entire floor with large pieces of plastic. Tape plastic together to form large sheets.
2. Set up scaffolding and ensure you are able to reach all areas of the vaulted ceiling. Always use scaffolding with safety rails installed. Lock brakes whenever you are standing on the scaffolding to keep it from moving unexpectedly.
3. Mix a small amount of dish washing liquid with water in a 5-gallon bucket, enough to create a small amount of bubbles. Fill the water solution into a water pump and begin to saturate sections of the popcorn ceiling. Allow each section to stay wet for about 20 minutes before you begin scraping.
4. Use a plastic putty knife and begin to scrape and peel off your popcorn ceiling. The ceiling plaster will easily fall off in some places and stick in others. Continue this process until all plaster is removed.
5. Wash the ceiling until there is no drywall dust or chalk feel to the ceiling. All of the dust must be removed prior to retexturing.
6. Apply your new drywall texture to the ceiling. Roll or trowel on joint compound and knock down high points with the smooth edge of your trowel. Estimate 1 gallon of joint compound will roughly cover about 50 square feet. Clean your trowel often to avoid plaster drying on your paint tools. Let plaster dry for 24 hours and then paint your desired ceiling color.
Tags: popcorn ceiling, joint compound, large sheets, reach areas, small amount, vaulted ceiling, with large
Lighting can transform your vanity and give your bathroom a modern and updated appearance. Enhancing a bathroom vanity with lights such as wall sconces or track lighting is an affordable way to jazz up your bathroom. If you have space on top of your vanity, consider adding accent lamps.
The Basics
If your goal is to provide a lot of light around your vanity, install lights that can handle a high watt bulb. Fixtures that shift the light down, such as track and recessed lighting, work well around a vanity where you need a lot of light. Wall lights such as sconces work well above the vanity and come in a wide range of designs. Consider adding a dimmer to allow you to adjust the brightness as needed.
Lighting Ideas
Bathroom vanities are the main hub of a bathroom and often require a lot of light around the sink and mirror area. An attractive and modern idea for lights around the vanity is track lighting. Track lighting handles LED bulbs, which last longer than a typical bulb and use less energy. Easily replaced, LED track lighting bulbs are made of hard plastic, making them very durable. Not only are the lights adjustable, but you can also find track designed to bend, allowing you to create your own design.
If your goal is to provide a cozy and warm feel, try installing lamps on either side of the vanity. Lamps work well in guest bathrooms that are smaller and are used less frequently. Because they come in so many different designs, you can mix and match the base and shade to get a one-of-a-kind lamp. Installing three-way bulbs will also allow you to adjust the amount of light on your vanity.
For an elegant and bold approach, install a chandelier above the vanity. Chandeliers can illuminate large rooms and come in many designs. The most popular are crystal and glass, however many home improvement stores carry them in wrought-iron, which are affordable. Check out your local thrift store and flea markets for old chandeliers to spruce up. With a can of spray paint, you can bring it back to life without breaking your budget.
Wall sconces provide lighting around a bathroom mirror and come in a variety of designs. The most affordable are the single sconces, however three and four-lighted sconces are popular above mirrors. If you have single sconces, consider installing them on either side of the vanity. For extra light, add a triple three-light sconce above the mirror.
Tags: your vanity, track lighting, work well, above vanity, allow adjust, around vanity
Cove molding is a versatile molding that is used as a trim in furniture and homes. It has a concave front side and the back corners are milled at a 45-degree angle so that it fits to cover wall/ceiling joints, for example. You can make your own custom molding with on a router table. Making your own allows you to determine the profile of the molding and use the species of wood that you want so that the molding will match your project. Be sure to make extra lengths of molding to account for repairs, maintenance and errors in measuring or cutting.
Instructions
1. Insert the core-box bit into the router. Adjust the height of the bit to cut the desired profile into the face of the wood and lock it in place. Adjust the fence so that the bit will cut the profile in the center of the 2-inch width of the board.
2. Place the board with one 2-by-96-inch side flat against the table of the router and one 1-by-96-inch side against the fence. Guide the board through the router in a steady motion at a speed just fast enough to allow the blade to cut the wood. Remove the board one the cut is complete. Flip the board over so that the routed cove is facing up and place the 2-by-96-inch side flat against the table. Repeat this step for each of the boards needed for the project.
3. Remove the core-box bit and insert a molding edge bit. The molding edge bit cuts a 45-degree angle on molding. Adjust the height of the bit to cut the profile into the corner edges of the molding. Adjust the fence so that the full profile is cut in the corners of the molding.
4. Run the molding with the routed cove side up through the saw to rout one back corner edge. Rotate the board horizontally 180-degrees and rout the opposite back corner edge. You should now have a cove routed on the front 2-by-96-inch side and 45-degree angled corner edges on the back 2-by-96-inch side. Repeat this process for each board.
5. Sand each side of the cove molding boards with a fine-grit sanding pad in the same direction as the wood grain until it they are smooth.
A suspended ceiling is a ceiling that is suspended beneath the original ceiling. Typically, a grid work is installed that hangs from supports attached to the original ceiling and to the outer walls. The suspended ceiling materials slide or clip into the grid work structure. The end result can be very elegant and decorative, in addition to serving a purpose. A lot of ductwork, pipes and wiring can be hidden under a suspended ceiling. Plus, the added air space can provide insulation as well as soundproofing. Sometimes the extra room is needed for recessed lighting or other lighting options.
Metal Strips
One option for your suspended ceiling is to use long metal strips typically made from aluminum or steel. They come in many colors and the length is customized to your space. These long strips are installed by clipping them into a base that is suspended from the original ceiling. The end result is a look that is long and linear with the strips of metal extending from one end of your space to the other. There are no gaps when the strips are snapped into the base correctly, but you can see the seams for a nice striped ceiling.
Pressed Metal Panels
Some suspended ceilings use panels made from pressed metal such as aluminum or copper. These pressed metal panels are made by pressing metal into a square or rectangular shape and they typically have an ornate design pressed into them to create visual interest. These are installed by sliding them into a grid work. Sometimes it is possible to buy a grid work that fits the panels. Otherwise, the grid work for a fiber board ceiling can be used instead, with minor modifications. Long pieces of wood can be suspended from the ceiling for the pressed metal panels to be attached to when the grid work isn't feasible.
Fiber Board Panels
The original suspended ceiling choice, fiberboard is also among the cheapest options. Wood fibers and binders are pressed flat into stiff panels, so they aren't very elaborate or elegant. Chemicals can be mixed in before these are flattened to add fireproofing or moisture resistance if desired. These panels are slid into a grid work that is suspended from the ceiling and are very easy to remove if necessary.
Tags: grid work, into grid, into grid work, original ceiling, suspended ceiling, suspended from
If your home game room or your office has standard, industrial ceiling tiles, you may feel that these boring, ugly tiles permanently compromise the beauty of the room. Fortunately, decorating and lighting can make ceiling tiles more palatable in a variety of ways. Don't give up on your room. Beautify it instead, by decorating those drab ceiling tiles with sheer fabric scarves.
Instructions
1. Assemble materials. You need one sheer scarf for each ceiling tile. Look for scarves in complementary, but not necessarily identical patterns.
2. Remove the ceiling tiles, using the ladder if needed. You can usually push each one upward slightly, then angle it downward to fit through the opening. Remove tiles gently so that you don't scrape them as you pull them out. Leave any lighting fixtures alone.
3. Clean off the tiles. Use the hand broom to sweep off both sides. The backs of the tiles in particular will likely be dusty. Do this outside so you don't get your room all dusty.
4. Attach the scarves to the ceiling tiles. Lay the scarf flat, then place the ceiling tile on top of it. Pull the edges of the scarf up around the tile, pulling the scarf tight across the front (the side that will face downward and be visible when the tile's replaced in the ceiling. Staple the ends of the scarf to the back of the tile. Then secure the edges using a thin line of glue around all four sides of the ceiling tile. Repeat this process for each tile. You're creating pieces for a beautiful mosaic.
5. Allow the glue to dry for 20 minutes. If any of the scarves pull free, reattach them with staples and additional glue. This may happen simply because they're stretched so tightly.
6. Replace the ceiling tiles. Put them back into place one at a time. Be gentle so that you don't snag the scarves.
7. Set up floor and table-top lamps. These will replace the harsh, unforgiving, overhead florescent lighting commonly installed in offices and other rooms with industrial ceiling tiles. Softer light from lamps on the floor, tables, or desks will soften up the room. Your scarf mosaic will look beautiful and elaborate when it's lit from below.
A table lamp often looks very complicated or sleek, and you may have trouble imagining how it might be put together. No matter how sleek the look, underneath, it is still a table lamp. The basic design of a table lamp makes it easy to put together and simple enough for the average homeowner.
Instructions
1. Assemble all of the pieces of your lamp. Place the lamp base on the work table followed by the body of the lamp. The lamp base often has a hole in the center and legs to allow the lamp wire to exit down to the outlet. The body of the lamp can look like anything from a vase to a block of wood. It should have a hole on both top and bottom.
2. Slide the lamp rod into the top hole of the body of the lamp, out the bottom hole, through the hole in the lamp base with the feet pointing away from the lamp. Place a washer over the end of the threaded pipe and screw a lock nut securely in place, or just turn the body in the base until it's tight, depending on the model of lamp.
3. Thread your lamp wire into the bottom of the pipe and up and out of the top of the pipe. Place a lock nut over the end of the wires at the top of the lamp base and screw the nut down. Place the neck over the nut -- some lamps do not have a neck -- and position the bottom part of the harp with the ends pointing up. The harp is the curved wire that fits around the bulb.
4. Place the socket cap over the bottom of the harp and screw the socket cap to the threaded pipe, making sure it is securely tightened and facing upward. Pull the wires apart 2 inches. Strip off the insulation on 1 inch of each wire using a wire stripper.
5. Spread the two wires into a Y shape. Tie the wire into an underwriter's knot. Bring the left wire to the right behind the right wire and form a small loop so that the left wire is behind the right wire and pointing to the left. Bring the right wire to the left in front of the left wire and form a small loop so that the right wire is in front of the left wire and pointing to the right. Take the wire that is now pointing to the right, through the right loop from front toward the back and to the right. At the same time take the wire that is now pointing to the left, through the left loop from behind and to the front and left. This will form a pretzel-like shape.
6. Twist the wire ends. Wrap the hot wire around the gold screw on the bulb socket and screw the screw tight. Usually the insulation over the neutral wire will have ridges or the hot wire insulation will be a darker color. Wrap the neutral wire around the silver screw and screw the screw tight.
7. Place the socket shell over the bulb socket so that the bulb socket is fully covered. Tuck the cords inside. Slide the socket shell into the upward facing socket cap. Squeeze the ends of the harp and slide the ends into the bottom harp assembly. Screw a bulb into the socket. Position the lamp shade over the threaded post at the top of the harp and secure the shade in place with a finial nut.
Tags: lamp base, left wire, right wire, body lamp, bulb socket, front left, screw screw
Learn properly install a recessed 50W halogen bulb for proper lighting.
Halogen light bulbs are common in lighting fixtures such as a recessed lighting track. There are different styles of 50W halogen bulbs that can be used for recessed lighting depending on the size of the actual bulb. The 50-watt halogen bulbs come with a GY6.35 or GY5.3 base; both base types are bi-pin bases. Bi-pin bases have two pins coming out of the bottom that snap into the socket. It's important to know the proper way to remove and install a halogen bi-pin base bulb to ensure no damage is done to the lighting unit.
Instructions
1. Turn the recessed lighting off. If a dimmer controls your recessed lighting, turn the dimmer all the way down.
2. Remove the current halogen bulb. Halogen bulbs that come in 50 watts are bi-pin bulbs. Do not twist a bi-pin bulb, as it will cause the base to break. Grasp the bulb from the base and pull straight out. Discard the old bulb.
3. Align the bulb pins with the socket pins. Hold the bulb by the base and push straight into the socket. The bulb will click into place signaling it's secured. The bulb is now installed and ready for use.
Replace the top of an old piece of furniture with a vanity sink.
An old or new piece of furniture can be turned into a beautiful vanity with a new countertop and the right touches. Choose a furniture piece that fits the space and will accommodate the sink and plumbing that you have chosen. Pick out a cabinet with doors instead of drawers. Drawers will be too difficult to maneuver if you have a plumbing problem. With a few simple steps, you can create a decorator piece for your bathroom.
Instructions
1. Pull out any drawers that are in the furniture piece. Remove the drawer box and rails from the door. Install a tip-out tray on the bottom of the drawer front and attach it to the furniture with the included hardware. Drive screws through the tip-out tray mounting bracket into the inside frame of the furniture piece. Drive screws through the other side of the mounting bracket into the drawer front.
2. Find the hardware that attaches the wooden top to the furniture. Remove the screws with a screwdriver. Lift the top off the furniture.
3. Measure and mark the area where the plumbing will run from the wall through the back of the furniture. Cut holes in this area with a drill. The drill should be fit with the appropriately sized hole saw.
4. Run a bead of construction adhesive along the top of the furniture. Set the new vanity top in place. For the easiest installation, choose a solid surface top with the sink hole and plumbing holes already cut out. Press the top in place.
5. Apply construction adhesive along the rim of the sink. Drop the sink in place on the counter. Install the faucet hardware in the sink holes.
6. Run a bead of caulk along the edge of the sink and the rim of the faucet. Smooth with your finger. Let the adhesive and caulk dry.
7. Connect the plumbing from the wall through the holes in the back of the vanity and connect the pipes to the sink and faucet. Tighten with a pipe wrench.
Tags: furniture piece, adhesive along, bracket into, construction adhesive, construction adhesive along, drawer front
Long down rods can lower your ceiling fan in a room with cathedral ceilings.
Cathedral ceilings in a room rise all the way up to the top of the house and, typically, have a sloping ceiling. This presents challenges in decorating. The elegance and spacious feeling this type of room inspires can cause your furniture to disappear. There are ways to incorporate decorating techniques in your home that make the most of a cathedral ceiling, yet still manage to give the area an intimate ambiance.
Instructions
1. Avoid crowding in a room with a cathedral ceiling. Don't overcompensate and place multiple small items around the room in an attempt to fill the room up. Utilize large sculptures and tall, bold silk flower arrangements to enhance all the extra space in the room, while avoiding a cluttered look.
2. Go large. Your furniture should be on a larger scale than a typical room. Massive wood furniture is ideal for this type room. Decorate in a grand style to complement cathedral ceilings.
3. Purchase oversized paintings and unframed canvas. They give the room a spacious contemporary feel. If you use smaller pictures, group them into sections with a theme to give the visual effect of a giant piece of art.
4. Paint your ceiling a shade or two darker than your walls. This dramatic effect makes the room feel as if it flows together, avoiding a cavernous feel.
5. Center your seating areas out from the wall spaces. This gives the room a cozy feel and prevents it from having a warehouse look. If space allows, fill two or three areas around the room with furniture groupings instead of using only one seating area.
6. Paint an accent wall with a complementary color. This pulls the eye to a focal point in the room, visually decreasing the space. The accent wall is often the wall you see upon entering a room from the front door or main entrance. Alternately, your focal point can be the wall everyone faces while sitting in the room, whether it is a fireplace or the entertainment center with the TV in it.
7. Add faux beams and crown moldings to your ceiling to visually lower the height and make the room feel cozy. This technique works well in a room with southwestern decor or a ranch style home, but it is not appropriate for a classic, elegant style.
8. Lower your ceiling fans and chandeliers by using extra long cording or down rods.
Tags: room with, your ceiling, accent wall, around room, cathedral ceiling, cathedral ceilings, down rods
Michelangelo is not the only one who can create a work of art on a ceiling. Anyone can create unique imagery or patterns on a ceiling using inexpensive vinyl tiles. Using your own design, floor tiles are affixed to the ceiling with adhesive to create a kind of mosaic.
Instructions
1. Determine a pattern or image to use in your ceiling mosaic. You can invent this yourself or you can base your mosaic off a photograph or other image. It is possible to keep it as simple as two subtle shades randomly placed, or you can create more complex image, such as a landscape. You might also look to early Byzantine, Roman or Turkish mosaics for inspiration.
2. Outline on a piece of graph tracing paper the dimensions of the ceiling. Use each graph unit as one tile. To translate the dimensions, divide the length and width of the room by the length of a tile (most tiles are 12 inches-by-12 inches) then count the resulting numbers of squares on the graph paper.
3. Size your image digitally to match those dimensions and print it out if you are basing your design on an image and are not drawing freehand on the graph paper. If not using an original digital image such as a digital photograph, either scan your image or take a digital photo of the image to upload into an imaging program. Another option is to resize the image with a color copy machine.
4. Tape graph tracing paper on top of the image.
5. Color in the squares to match the colors in the image using colored pencils or markers. This is your "map" for laying out the tiles on the ceiling.
6. Buy colored tiles accordingly. Optionally, white tiles can be colored with vinyl dye.
7. Remove any light fixtures from the ceiling.
8. Wash your ceiling using soapy water to remove any interfering contaminants. Allow the ceiling to dry. The ceiling needs to be smooth as well as dry. If you have popcorn texture, it will have to be scraped and sanded.
9. Working in small sections at a time, apply vinyl tile adhesive to the ceiling using a flooring trowel and set the tiles. Roll the tiles with a tile roller as you go to ensure they are sitting flush with the ceilings. Cut tiles to fit around fixture outlets by heating them with a heat gun and slicing them with a utility knife.
Wainscoting is a wood paneling product that is applied between a room's chair rail and base board. Wainscoting is traditionally made with tongue-and-groove slots or edges that overlay one another for ease of installation and comes in boards up to 12 inches wide. The panels come in a variety of hard and soft woods that are beveled for decoration. The wainscoting is nailed to furring strips, which are thin strips of wood that are nailed horizontally to the wall studs.
Instructions
1. Measure how tall you would like your wainscoting to be and mark the locations of the wall studs with a pencil.
2. Determine at least two equal heights for at least two furring strips to be located. Mark these locations and mark the studs at the height horizontally across the wall.
3. Place the 1-by-2 lumber strips horizontally at the marked locations and nail them to the wall studs as furring strips. Wedge wooden shims at any unlevel spots behind the 1-by-2 lumber to make the furring strips level.
4. Place the first board of wainscoting in place. Scribe and cut the end of the board that meets another wall with a scriber and table saw, if the wall does not fit plumb against the board. Attach the first board to the furring strips with finishing nails.
5. Place the second board by overlapping the edges or slipping the tongue-and-groove into the fist board and attaching the board to the furring strips with finishing nails. Attach the rest of the wainscoting boards in the same fashion.
6. Install a baseboard at the bottom and a cap rail at the top of the wainscoting with finishing nails and a hammer. Counter sink the nails and fill nail holes with putty or paintable caulk.
Tags: furring strips, finishing nails, wall studs, with finishing, with finishing nails, 1-by-2 lumber
If you have a ceiling made of sheetrock and it has suffered water or any type of damage, you can patch it with another section of sheetrock or drywall board. Once you have the necessary materials, it will only take a weekend to have your sheetrock ceiling patched and painted. The job will leave the ceiling pristine and no one will ever know it's even been patched. All you need is matching paint for your ceiling and couple of tools.
Instructions
1. Put on eye protection and a dust mask. Situate a ladder under where the sheetrock needs to be patched. Climb the ladder and cut a hole into a square shape with a saw. The square edges should be even to patch the ceiling properly. Measure the cut square with a tape measure.
2. Cut a section of sheetrock or drywall with a saw to match the measurements. Place the cut section into the square hole in the ceiling and attach to the studs with drywall screws using a screw gun. Tape the joints with drywall tape.
3. Spread a thick layer of joint compound over the sheetrock ceiling patch with a putty knife, going about six inches out from the edges to make the ceiling patch blend into the sheetrock. Dry the joint compound with a heat gun or hair dryer for about twenty to thirty minutes.
4. Sand over the patch and joint compound with sandpaper until smooth. Apply a coat of primer to the ceiling patch with a brush and let dry as long as the manufacturer recommends. Paint over the patch and primer using a matching paint.
Tags: ceiling patch, joint compound, patch with, ceiling patch with, compound with, into square, joint compound with
Whether you are building or remodeling, careful attention to bathroom lighting requirements can mean the difference between a dim, difficult-to-maneuver space and a bathroom that's easy to bathe and dress in. Bathrooms require general lighting for all purposes, task lighting for specific working areas, and accent lighting for decorative and nighttime use.
General Lighting
General lighting, or lighting intended to illuminate the entire bathroom area, is one of the most challenging aspects of meeting your bathroom's lighting requirements. Large bathrooms with angles for bathing or dressing areas may need more than one light fixture to provide adequate lighting, while a small bathroom can sometimes be lighted by a fixture intended for task lighting, such as an over-the-mirror light bar. General lighting should provide ambient lighting for the entire space, but does not have to illuminate every area brightly -- task lighting and accent lighting will cover these needs. In many instances, general overhead lighting is built into a vent fan apparatus. For most bathrooms, this vent/light combination will provide sufficient general lighting.
Task Lighting
Task lighting illuminates areas of the bathroom where more light is needed for shaving, applying cosmetics and bathing. Bathroom task lighting often takes the form of lights installed above or on either side of mirrors, track lighting or pendant lights hung above dressing or vanity areas, and directional lighting meant to illuminate the shower and/or tub area(s). Task lighting fixtures should provide enough light to allow comfortable completion of tasks while also adding attractive elements to the bathroom design. Choose fixtures that coordinate in material and/or style for the best aesthetic in your bathroom design.
Accent Lighting
While accent lighting is often superfluous in smaller bathrooms, larger bathrooms and bathrooms that incorporate separate showers, baths, commode areas and sink areas will benefit from the use of accent lighting to illuminate dark corners, break up large walls and transition from one area of the bath to another. Bathroom accent lighting is often in the form of wall sconces or recessed lights, although accent lighting can also be used on top of or inside shelves and cabinets, either built in or freestanding. Accent lighting sometimes serves as a nightlight that provides soft, unobtrusive light.
If you have a smaller bathroom and would like to add accent lighting, but do not wish to add built-in lights or use valuable outlets, battery-powered lamps or LED lights can provide extra lighting for decorative or nighttime use without additional electrical cords or switches.
Designing a bathroom space with black granite counter tops is a relatively simple process as black happens to be a very versatile color. While black granite counter tops are viewed as contemporary, they can actually be matched with virtually any color and bathroom design. Whether you are aiming for a vintage, rustic Italian or contemporary bathroom, black granite counter tops will complement all three designs and more.
Color Scheme and Style
The bathroom's color scheme and style go hand in hand to create a wide range of designs. For instance, if you are working with beach-inspired designs, hues such as turquoise, pearl and sand work well together to create that look. This can be done with turquoise wall paint, pearl-colored cabinets and sand-colored window coverings. Black granite counter tops can add a modern edge to an otherwise vintage-styled beach cottage.
Personality
The bathroom design should always reflect your personality and lifestyle. For instance, if you have small children that will be using the bathroom and you don't want a lot of clutter, consider using darker cabinets and keeping a dark wicker basket in the corner to hide bath toys. The dark cabinets will hide unsightly finger smudges, and the wicker basket keeps the space clean, organized and low-maintenance. Installing mirror cabinet spaces along the wall will also provide a place for toothbrushes and other hygiene necessities so the counter top remains free of clutter.
Bathroom Accessories
Bathroom accessories have the ability to dress up or down any black granite counter top. For instance, having a simple floral arrangement or fragrant candles nestled on the counter top adds a feminine touch to the space. If you're going for a beach environment, a clear recycled jar filled with hand-picked shells is an easy and cost-effective way to add to the beach theme. Hanging art on the wall may also complement the room's theme and enhance the style you are aiming for so there is no confusion between beach and vintage.
Budget
Budget plays an important role in any bathroom design project. The amount of money you are able to spend will determine the type of cabinets you choose or the type of floor tiling you want to install. If you have some home remodeling skills, you may want to tackle some of these projects on your own to save money. Otherwise, you may need to improvise to keep your wallet heavy. Some projects are simple, such as refinishing old cabinets with a fresh coat of paint or adding new knobs.
Rope lighting is formed by tiny lights connected inside a tube. It is a solid strip of lighting and provides a soft ambient glow, either white or in a variety of colors, around a room, under cabinets and along stairs. Tray ceilings are a decor element used to lower the edges of a ceiling to form a frame around it. This type of ceiling is sometimes used to aesthetically hide duct work and other construction elements in the ceiling. Rope lighting works well with a tray ceiling by lighting the shadows in the corner where the tray ceiling meets the wall. Using a track ensures the light stays straight, rather than sagging over time.
Instructions
1. Measure the area around the ceiling where you want to install the rope light. For tray ceilings, the ideal location is around the edge where the corner of the ceiling meets the wall. This edge is usually darker than the rest of the ceiling. You can also use the lighting along the edge where the tray ceiling meets the main ceiling. Use the measurement to determine how much rope light you need when you go shopping. Make sure it is long enough to cover the entire circumference and that you are able to reach an electrical plug with the end.
2. Predrill the track, using a drill bit that is slightly smaller than your drywall screws. Drill at each end of the track. If the tracks are longer, such as more than 3 feet long, you should add a hole in the middle of every foot.
3. Screw the track into the desired location along the edge of the tray ceiling. Use drywall screws and screw into each hole. Make sure you use screws with a flat head so they lie flush along the track.
4. Press the rope light into the track so it is firmly in position. Start at the end of the room farthest from your plug and work toward the side that has the plug. Make sure the lights are snugly in position all the way along by running your hand over them.
5. Plug the lights in, using an extension cord or the cord that came with the rope lights.
Tags: ceiling meets, Make sure, rope light, tray ceiling, along edge, ceiling meets wall, drywall screws
When holiday cheer is in the air, no space is safe! Create a unique yuletide atmosphere that includes a ceiling bedecked in color and light.
Instructions
1. Run an extra-long string of white indoor lights along the perimeter of the room at the top of the wall where the wall and the ceiling meet.
2. Secure the lights with thumbtacks or staples.
3. Purchase several boxes of glass Christmas ornament balls in one color - or in an array of hues such as red, silver, gold and green.
4. String clear fishing line through the ornament hooks twice, creating a durable, double-stranded attachment.
5. Cut the fishing line in a variety of lengths, ranging from 4 to 12 inches long.
6. Hang the ornaments from the ceiling, spacing them equally. Secure the fishing wire to the ceiling with pushpin tacks or a staple gun.
7. Attach another strand of fishing wire to a crystalline star, miniature disco ball, or Santa ornament. Hang the ornament in the center of the room and slightly lower than the lowest grouping of glass balls.
8. Pin or staple small sprigs of holly and/or mistletoe to each corner of the room at the point where the walls and ceiling meet.
Many older homes have wood paneling on their walls. Over time, this wooden paneling can become worn or faded. No matter if the surface of the paneling is oak, pine or another type of wood, the paneling will eventually begin to lose its color. The paneling color and look of your wood molding can be brought back to life by following a few simple instructions.
Instructions
1. Remove all nails, hooks and other obstructions from old wood paneling. Wipe down all of the paneling with a clean rag. Run the rag in a circular motion over the entire surface of the paneling. Wet the rag with water if necessary. Scrub the small grooves where dirt can get trapped.
2. Place plastic sheets to cover the floor or carpet in the area.
3. Fill a mop bucket with warm water and add half a cup of oil soap. Dip a mop into the bucket and wet it. Wring it out.
4. Spread the mop out over the paneling in a sweeping motion. Move back and forth over the entire surface of the paneling and get the mop wet when necessary. Replace the water and refill the bucket if it gets dirty. Wipe away any excess water and spillage with a clean cloth.
5. Dry the walls completely with clean cloths. Inspect the area and make sure there is no debris or other dirt left on the wall. Look for mop streaks and wipe them away if they are visible.
6. Pour lemon oil on a sponge and apply it generously to the wood paneling. Apply it in a circular motion over the entire surface. Cover the area slowly and press down firmly on the sponge. Add more oil when necessary. Rehang everything from the wall after the lemon oil has had one hour to dry.
Tags: entire surface, over entire, over entire surface, surface paneling, with clean, circular motion
Suspended ceilings are a versatile and easy way to finish the ceiling of a basement, workroom, shop, or other area. Over time, however the tiles in the suspended ceiling may become discolored or dirty and need replacement. Or, given the multitude of styles available, you may simply wish to change the ceiling tiles for a fresh look. Accomplish this job quickly and easily without any special tools.
Instructions
1. Measure the size of the tiles you'll be replacing. These come in standard sizes, but it's important that you get the right size when buying replacements. If possible, try to buy replacement ceiling tiles that match your existing tiles.
2. Push the tile you're replacing up on one corner firmly. Do this while standing underneath the ceiling tile on a stepladder. If the tile is tight in its framework, you may need to apply steady pressure with both hands at the corner. Try not to push too hard in one particular point -- this may crack the tile.
3. Angle the tile so that you can lower it down through the gridwork of the suspended ceiling as the corner of the tile goes up into the hollow ceiling space above it. When the tile is clear of the gridwork, pull it out and discard it.
4. Slide the new tile through the suspended ceiling gridwork, angling it upward to move it above the grid. Orient the tile so that you're holding it above the gridwork in line with the space you're placing it in. Lower the tile so that it rests on the gridwork.
Beaded ceiling light fixtures are growing in popularity. These light fixtures sometimes bridge between a traditional-type chandelier fixture and the simplicity of more modern light fixture shapes. Often, these transitional light fixtures will be quite expensive, but with a bit of ingenuity and work you can create an elegant yet modern beaded ceiling light fixture on a budget.
Instructions
1. Visit your local hardware store looking for the type of inexpensive fixture that has a built-in framework that extends beyond the lamps. These often look like spoked wheels. The framework will typically mount above the lamp section. Often, you can find leftover builder's lights that hang glass or plastic panes from this framework. Look for brass fixtures since they are likely to be quite inexpensive or on sale.
2. Tape off any sections of the lamp that you don't want to paint. Use medium-grit sandpaper to rough up the shiny brass. Wipe the residue off with a tack cloth. Use a metal coat hanger to hang the light from a tree limb or overhead spot so that you can easily paint all sides of the fixture.
3. Shake the paint and spray the fixture. Metallic paints are available in almost any finish, so it is easy to select a modern metal finish that will look good in your room. You will probably need to apply two to three coats with at least a 30-minute drying time between coats. Allow the fixture to dry for four hours before handling.
4. Hang the fixture in a location where you are comfortable to work. Mount the crystals and beads before the fixture is attached to the ceiling.
5. Use muffin tins to sort beads and crystals by type, size, color, shape and any other distinguishing feature. String beads using beading wire and needle-nose pliers to attach the strings to the fixture. Generally, work around the fixture in layers with your largest crystals at the bottom, below the level of the light bulbs and the bottom of the fixture. Often. the framing ribs (wheel-shaped) provide multiple places for positioning the strings.
The right lighting for the bathroom is both functional and decorative.
Whether you're decorating a bathroom for the first time,or you're remodeling the space, the right lighting can showcase your favorite bathroom items. Bathroom lighting should also serve to illuminate the space properly so that the bathroom can serve its purpose efficiently.
Size
Large bathrooms will likely need more light than smaller ones. A main wall light, as well as lights around the bathroom or shower space are essential for a big bathroom. Smaller spaces may be properly lit with one main light over the mirror that illuminates the entire room and allows you to see in the mirror clearly.
Significance
If you have special items in the bathroom that you want to bring attention to, highlight them with specialty lighting. Shelf lighting that showcases potpourri in exotic colors or small candid photos of flowers is appropriate when space permit, as well as lighting that properly displays a picture on the main wall of the bathroom, like a photo of a tropical flower bouquet, or a portrait of your baby in the bathtub.
Types
Different types of lighting are fitting for the bathroom depending on the feel you want for the space. If you plan in spending time in the bathroom relaxing in the bathtub, install a dimmer for the area around the tub. If there's a vanity in your bathroom, bright lights all around the mirror will allow you to see clearly while applying makeup or doing your hair, and will make the space more attractive.
Tags: lighting that, lights around, main wall, right lighting
Turn your drab bathroom into an inviting space where you can relax in the tub or primp for a night out without feeling like you are in a truck stop restroom. Though your budget for home decor may be next to nothing, there are numerous ways you can decorate your bathroom without spending any money. Look through your home for items you can move into your bathroom as well as items you can reuse and remake.
Bathroom Curtains
Create your own outside bathroom curtain out of old bedsheets that feature unusual patterns. If you do not have metal rings to place within the curtain holes for hanging the curtain up, simply make holes in the fabric with a pair of scissors for hanging purposes. Another option is to sew multiple old sheets to make a new bathroom curtain, or combine assorted pieces of scrap fabric to make a fabric "collage" as your new curtain.
DIY Stamps and Stencils
Make your own stamps for decorating your bathroom by reusing old sponges and cutting them into assorted shapes. If you already own sponges in assorted shapes, such as those made for children, use them to make sponge designs and patterns on your bathroom wall as well. Another "stamp" idea is to use yours and your family members' feet and hands to make stamps on your bathroom wall; simply stick feet and hands in paint and press them against the walls where desired. Cut assorted stencils out of cardboard or card stock and trace them onto your bathroom wall with paint or even crayon.
Baskets
Use wicker and plastic baskets and bins you have lying around the house as cute storage containers for bathroom items. Fill one basket with hair products, another with bath products, another with makeup, and another with beauty tools, such as curling irons and blow dryers, which looks better than having makeup and hair care products strewn about your bathroom and also makes your bathroom a more organized area to shower and prep.
Plants and Other Decor Ideas
If your bathroom features windows that stream a good amount of light, move some of your plants into your bathroom where applicable. Tropical and semi-tropical plants are ideal for bathroom display, however any plants you have will do. Place one or more plants on top of your toilet, on your bathroom sink, on top of bathroom cabinets, or on their own plant stand if possible. Additional ideas for cute, free bathroom decor include arranging a few candles from your candle collection as desired around your bathroom, or drying flowers from your gardens to make displays in baskets and vases.
Tags: your bathroom, your bathroom, another with, bathroom wall, your bathroom wall, assorted shapes, bathroom curtain
A guest room should be decorated to make your visitors feel comfortable and welcome. Providing an uncluttered neutral space for your guests to stay in will give them an "at-home" feeling. Before your guests arrive, remove all of your own belongings, leaving behind only a beautiful room to which your guests can add their personal belongings and feel as if they are meant to be there.
Instructions
Guest Bedroom
1. Choose a neutral paint color to apply to the walls of a guest bedroom. Neutral colors are easy to coordinate with many different fabrics and colors for the bed linens and decor.
2. Add decorative pillows.
Decorate the bed with luxurious bed linens. Use a sheet set with a high thread count and a coordinating comforter or bed spread with a simple pattern. Add several color-coordinated decorative bed pillows on top of the bed to make it feel inviting.
3. Make extra blankets and sheets available to your guests and show them where they are kept.
4. Provide a closet with available hangers for your guest to store their personal clothing. Place an empty chest of drawers in the room to give your guests a place to store their more intimate items. Make sure all flat top surfaces, such as the dresser, are cleared of your own items.
5. Include at least one nightstand in the room that will complement the bed nicely. Place nothing more than an alarm clock and/or a lamp on the nightstand.
6. Dress the windows of the guest room with long floor-length drapes or sheers in a color that coordinates with the bed linens and walls.
7. Place fresh seasonal flowers in a small vase on top of the chest of drawers.
8. A mirror can make a room brighter.
Hang a few simple pieces of art work on the walls. Add a mirror; this will not only help to brighten the room but will also provide the guests a way to check their appearance without having to use the bathroom mirror.
Guest Bathroom
9. Remove all of your personal belongings from the guest bathroom.
10. Clean the bathroom, including the tub, toilet, sink, mirror, floor and walls.
11. Keep towels availble in the guest bathroom.
Add fresh clean towels to the guest bathroom that coordinate with the colors you used in the guest bedroom. Add a shorter version of the curtains you used in the bedroom to a bathroom window. Choose a complementary color for the shower curtain.
12. Make your guest feel at home.
Provide soap and other toiletries such as shampoo and body lotion for your guests to use in their own bathroom. Add a mini vase of fresh flowers or a colorful potpourri jar to any cabinet space.
A wood-plank ceiling gives a warm, rustic look to any room. Ceiling planks today lock together with tongue-and-groove milling, just like floorboards, but they're significantly different than typical flooring. Ceiling planks are made to be much lighter than flooring, and they should always be pre-finished because finishing them after installation is difficult and messy. If the existing ceiling is plastered or drywalled, you'll have to use a studfinder to locate the ceiling joists to secure the planks. If the ceiling has bare joists, it's a much easier project; in fact, it might make sense to remove old wall board or plaster before installing a wood ceiling.
Instructions
1. Set your ladder up at one side of the room. Measure the width of the ceiling, perpendicular to the ceiling joists (with the tape measure crossing over them).
2. Set your first ceiling plank into your miter saw box. Measure to the reading you took from the ceiling, and mark it on the board. Cut it at a 90-degree angle (straight across).
3. Hold the plank up to the edge of the ceiling where you measured, so the plank runs across each of the ceiling joists and the grooved side is to the wall. Use your trim nailer to sink two nails through the face of the board at each point where it crosses a joist.
4. Cut your second plank to size. Set it against the first plank, with the grooved side of the second plank locking around the tongue of the first plank. Set a piece of scrap plank against the second plank and gently tap it with your hammer to get a tight fit, being careful not to damage the tongue of the plank.
5. Install the second plank by shooting one nail into the side, just above the tongue, going up at an angle, at each point where it crosses a joist. That will hide the nails as you install the ceiling.
6. Repeat the process for each plank, crossing the whole ceiling. For the final piece, cut it lengthwise on your table saw if necessary to get it to fit, and install it by face-nailing as you did on the first one (since you won't be able to side-nail the last one).
7. Install ceiling trim around the perimeter of the ceiling to cover the seam where the planks meet the walls.
Tags: second plank, ceiling joists, Ceiling planks, Ceiling Without, Ceiling Without Drywall, crosses joist
The light bulb is a landmark in the history of lighting.
Lighting has a long history and technological advancements continue to take place. Lighting has become such a staple in our culture that laws have been developed to mandate how bright car lights need to be and how much lighting a workplace must provide.
Early History
Early versions of the lamp have been found in the Lascaux caves in France, which date back 15,000 years. These lamps were made out of shells, horns, stones, and rocks. The lamps were filled with grease and contained a fiber wick. Animal or vegetable fat was used as fuel.
Developments
In 1806, Humphrey Davy demonstrated a powerful electric lamp, called an "arc lamp." However, it required so much energy that it was impractical for use. By 1817, candles, oil lanterns and gas lamps were utilized as the main source of light during nighttime hours. Electric generators were developed to provide the energy for light sources used in public buildings and lighthouses. It wasn't until Thomas Edison created the first practical electrical light bulb as well as an electrical system to support it that electric light became available in home and office settings.
Modern Lighting
Debate has arisen over who first invented the light-emitting diode (LED). Four independent American research groups are generally credited with its invention in 1962. However, new information has come to light on the work by a Russian radio technician named Oleg Vladimirovich Losev, who published details of the first ever LED in 1927. LED lights are longer-lasting and more energy-efficient than compact fluorescent and incandescent lights.
Clean unfinished wood paneling by wiping with a soft-bristle brush.
Wood paneling may come finished or unfinished in a home. Unfinished wood paneling absorbs liquid because of its porous surface, while finished wood may have a stained or painted finish. Each type of wood paneling requires certain treatment techniques to ensure the wood remains in good condition. Treating wood paneling incorrectly may result in warped boards or permanent staining of the wood. With the proper tools you can maintain your wood paneling for many years to come.
Instructions
Unfinished Wood Paneling
1. Wipe unfinished wood paneling with a soft-bristle brush. Start at the top of the paneling and use downward brush strokes.
2. Run a soft cloth quickly through running cold water, allowing the cloth to become damp but not wet.
3. Wipe the damp cloth over the wood paneling, wiping from the top to the bottom. Dry the paneling with a clean cloth.
4. Pour 1 to 2 tbsp. of wood oil onto a clean cloth and wipe over the paneling, restoring shine to the wood.
Finished Wood Paneling
5. Vacuum the wood paneling using the brush attachment on a sweeper. Start from the top of the paneling, working your way toward the floor.
6. Pour 1 tsp. of saddle soap onto a clean cloth. Wipe the soap onto the wood paneling, starting at the top working down. Clean a 3-foot-wide section at a time.
7. Rinse the cloth in the sink to remove dirt and grime.
8. Wipe the section dry with a soft, cotton cloth rubbing with the grain of the wood. Repeat all of the steps with the next section of wood paneling. Fold the cotton cloth to expose a clean area and buff the wood dry. Repeat until all sections of wood paneling are clean.
From small mint containers to large lunch boxes, metal tins make convenient storage solutions for everything from memorabilia to craft supplies. Instead of using the containers "as is," transform them with simple painting techniques that will give the boxes an antique, shabby chic look. The faux finish can turn a recycled or second-hand tin into a work of art that you can use, display or give as a gift to a friend or family member.
Instructions
1. Protect your work area from paint and glaze splatters and spills by covering the table with pieces of scrap paper, old newspapers or a plastic sheet. Gather paper plates to squeeze the paint onto during the painting process.
2. Remove dust and debris from the surface of the tin by wiping the outside with a cotton ball dipped in rubbing alcohol. Allow the metal tin to dry.
3. Use a paintbrush to cover the tin with a medium-thick coat of acrylic paint. This color will become the "cracks" in the antique finish, so choose a light shade like white or beige if you want the cracks to be lighter than the surface color or choose a dark shade like brown or black if you want the opposite effect.
4. Apply a coat of crackle medium with a different paintbrush once the acrylic base coat is dry. Ensure you cover the tin completely with crackle medium---add a light coat to produce hairline cracks or a heavier application to generate larger cracks.
5. Allow the medium to dry until it's slightly tacky to the touch. Use a paintbrush to apply a coat of acrylic paint that contrasts with the first paint color---the cracks will begin appearing immediately as you brush on the paint.
6. Seal the project by brushing on a layer of matte or glossy sealer or decoupage glaze once the top layer of paint is dry.
7. Add dimension to the tin and personalize the project by adding embellishments to the top. Affix items like paper flowers, buttons or chipboard letters to the painted metal tin with adhesive dots.
Tags: acrylic paint, coat acrylic, coat acrylic paint, shade like
Use a baking soda paste to remove RV ceiling water stains.
A leaky recreational vehicle (RV) roof is frustrating and costly to repair. Once the leak is repaired on the outside of your RV, the inside ceiling is the next area that needs attention. Water stains on the ceiling are brown and unattractive. You don't have to take your RV to a repair shop or pay someone to come out and clean the stains from the ceiling. Removing the water stains is a task you can complete at home.
Instructions
Mixing & Applying
1. Place a piece of plastic sheeting on the floor under the water stain in your RV.
2. Mix 1 cup of baking soda and 1 cup of hydrogen peroxide (3 percent) in a pot or bucket. Wear latex gloves to keep your hands dry.
3. Stir the mixture into a paste. The paste will be thin--that's OK. Dip a rag or cloth into the paste.
4. Apply the paste to the water stain. Let the paste dry on the stain for 30 minutes.
Cleaning
5. Use a funnel to fill a 16 oz. spray bottle with hydrogen peroxide.
6. Spray the water stain with hydrogen peroxide. Wipe the stain with a rag or cloth.
7. Re-spray the water stain with peroxide. Continue wiping the stain until it is gone.
For stubborn water stains, spray the spot with hydrogen peroxide. Wait two to four hours before re-spraying and attempting to remove the stain.
Tags: hydrogen peroxide, water stain, stain with, with hydrogen, with hydrogen peroxide, baking soda, into paste
The modern kitchen and dining room are used for much more than simply eating; many families also use this space for doing homework, paying bills, working on craft projects or just hanging out. Choose your theme based on your family's needs. If you have small children and easy clean-up is a must, choose a modern décor scheme that takes advantage of granite, metal and other non-stainable surfaces. If you want a comforting feel, try a traditional French Country scheme with bright colors and a range of textures.
French Country
The hallmark of French country design is the harmonious interplay of color, fabric and texture. Blue, yellow, white and red appear prominently. To create the look in your home, choose furnishings in mid-tone woods such as oak, cherry or pine. Vintage or used furniture is perfect for this look-French families hand down their furniture from generation to generation and pieces with scratches or fading can add to the "family heirloom" look.
Designer Ammie Kim recommends wicker furniture and a mix of solid, floral and striped fabrics. Cookware, dinnerware and drinkware can be a part of your décor, too-don't hide them away. Start collecting ceramic and porcelain baking dishes in yellow and blue, and display them prominently on top of cabinets or in glass-door hutches. Sponge paint the walls in a gentle yellow color, then hang framed reproductions of vintage advertising or French botanical prints.
Modern Minimalist
The minimalist kitchen is easiest to achieve if you have lots of storage space (or don't use your kitchen for cooking very often). Counter tops should be uncluttered by appliances and crockery-hence the need for lots of space to store these items. The color scheme is usually monochromatic and pale, accented by stainless steel.
Your furnishings (tables, islands and/or bar stools) might be made of metal, polycarbonate plastic or whitewashed wood. Designer Rebekah Zaveloff has used charcoal-stained maple for the warmth of the good grain with a cool-toned modern color; she recommends pairing the wood with beige marble or limestone counter tops. Keep light fixtures and window treatments straight-lined and unfussy-no lace curtains here. Pleated Roman shades and simple pendant lighting or recessed lighting will do the trick.
Eclectic
Eclectic kitchen and dining areas allow you the most freedom to experiment with style. If you like French Country fabrics, for example, you can combine them with modern Philippe Starck-style polycarbonate chairs and the rounded appliances common in retro kitchens. The key to getting the eclectic look right is to mix design styles and keep a common color scheme. Choose one neutral color, one bold color and one metallic shade and use this palette throughout the area.
HGTV designer Estelle Jaivin has combined traditional modern granite countertops with a colorful custom-made tile mural in one example of eclectic design. Try painting just one wall a bold color, and then tie that color throughout the area with placemats, cabinet handles, curtains or even a bowl of fruit or veggies on display. Eclectic styles often play with artwork, too. Instead of using store bought art, paint a canvas yourself or create a shadowbox display of vintage kitchen items picked up at flea markets or antique shops. Personalized touches like this characterize the eclectic style.
Tags: French Country, bold color, color scheme, color then, Design Ideas, Dining Design
A ceiling light, as with other electrical fixtures, is fed by a "hot" (black) wire and a neutral white wire. The electrical circuit won't work without both wires involved. You can make it work without a ground wire, but you shouldn't. A ground wire is simply an extra wire that's designed to route any stray electrical current (from, say, a power surge) back into the system, so it won't shock anyone standing near the fixture. A properly installed electrical circuit will have a bare copper ground wire that should always be included in the light installation process.
Instructions
1. Turn off the electricity to the ceiling electrical box. If there's currently a fixture attached to it, remove the fixture using your screwdriver. Disconnect the three wires from the fixture and leave them hanging from the box. You will see a black wire, a white wire and a bare copper ground wire.
2. Find the mounting bracket for your new light. It will be a flat metal piece with a green grounding screw on it, and open screw holes to attach it to the box. Attach it using the provided machine screws.
3. Take the end of the bare copper ground wire and bend it into a U-shape, using your needle-nose pliers. Hook it around the green screw. Tighten the screw.
4. Raise the new light to the electrical box. Hold the white wire from the light next to the white wire from the box and twist a wire cap over the two of them. Do the same for the black wires from the light and box.
5. Tuck the two wires up inside the box. Mount the light to the mounting plate, using the provided screws. The green grounding screw and copper wire should be completely hidden by the fixture. Turn the power back on.
Tags: ground wire, white wire, bare copper, bare copper ground, copper ground, copper ground wire
Wake up your presentations in the office or bring home the movie theater experience with a sleek, unobtrusive ceiling projector. Installing a ceiling projector isn't a complicated process and doesn't require the help of a professional. With the help of some items--available at most electronics stores--you can install a powerful, multimedia ceiling projector in your home or office.
Instructions
1. Tack a string or rope to the area of the ceiling where your projector will hang. Position the rope so that it dissects the projector's viewing area into two congruent parts. Once you've got the rope into position, mark the spot and install the projector mount.
2. Secure the mount to the ceiling with the mount's supplied screws. For suspended ceilings you'll need a mount with an extension arm to attach to one of the ceiling's internal beams and extend down through the suspended ceiling.
3. Invert the projector and then line up the mount holes on the bottom of the projector to the screw holes on the mount. Secure the projector to the mount using the supplied screws--or by using the mount's built-in screws.
4. Run a video cable from your projector to its video source (computer, cable box, DVD player, etc). For computers, connect a VGA cable to the blue VGA port on the back of the projector--connect the opposite end of the cable to the VGA port on the back of your computer. For DVD players and receivers, run a composite video cable from the yellow composite port on the back of the projector to the yellow "Video Out" port on the back of the video source.
5. Insert the female end of the projector's power cord into the DC power port on the back of the projector and plug the male end of the cable into a power outlet near your video source. Use twist ties and a staple gun to group the cables and staple the bundle to the ceiling in a straight line towards the video source and power outlet.
6. Turn the projector on with the remote control. Press the "Menu" button and then select the option labeled "Settings," "Setup" or "Installation." Choose "Invert" or "Picture Flip." Rotate the lens on the projector to adjust the picture's sharpness.
Tags: port back, video source, ceiling projector, back projector, cable from
Tin ceilings were commonly installed in homes that were built from the late 1800s to about the 1930s. Using tin was cheaper than plaster or wood paneling during this time. This type of ceiling was also installed to prevent plaster from falling off the ceiling, a common problem that still occurs today. You can repair an existing tin ceiling by first determining the condition of the ceiling and the tin paneling.
Instructions
1. Search the entire ceiling to see if there are any small holes or areas of damage that will need to be repaired or replaced. Small holes in tin ceiling tiles can indicate rust spots.
2. Remove loose paint from the tin ceiling panels using a wire brush or a wire brush attachment for a power drill. Lightly apply pressure to the tiles so just the loose paint will come off the tile. You do not want to scratch or ruin the pattern of the tile.
3. Remove rust spots that will prevent paint from adhering to the tin panel. Lightly sand the rust spots using sandpaper or steel wool.
4. Apply silicone caulk to seal any small holes in the tile. Run your finger over the caulk to smooth is out over the hole.
5. Remove damaged tin panels by pulling out the nails securing the panels to the ceiling, using a pry bar or a tack puller.
6. Apply a coat of primer to the new tin panel with a paint brush or roller and let it dry for about an hour.
7. Attach the new tin ceiling panel to the ceiling using finishing nails.
8. Apply a new coat of paint to the ceiling tile with a paint brush or roller to complete the project.
Much like linens, silverware, flowers and the food itself, decor is a choice many couples make as a way to keep the theme or feel of their nuptials. Connecting the ceremony and reception, wall décor and ceiling décor can be accomplished in a number of ways.
Cost
The average wedding cost ranges from $20,000 to $25,000. Decorations, including flowers can make up nearly 10 percent of that amount.
Lighting
Lighting can be created in a number of ways. Chandeliers, vintage or modern, can be wired and hung from tents, trees, or free-standing posts or poles. Many event designers utilize this look to bring the inside to the outdoors, inserting items typically found in homes or interiors into gardens or other outdoor areas.
Paper
Paper lanterns, both colored and white, can be wired and strung from trees or tent poles for a unique lighting accent. Lanterns can be round, square or even equipped with internal framing for geometric shapes. Folded paper, like origami swans or folded butterflies, create movement at minimal cost.
Parasols/Umbrellas
Hung from the ceiling and lit with battery operated tea lights, colored umbrellas can bring a whimsical touch to a light-hearted ceremony or reception. Sans handle and adhered to a wall, parasols become near works-of-art that tie in to the wedding theme and color scheme.
Fabric
Yards of fabric draped down the walls or hung from a central ceiling beam creates a tent-like effect. Sheer fabrics like tulle or chiffon softens the lighting. Fabric can also be used to cover items and décor along the wall hiding what guests don't need to see.