Alternative Lamp Shades

Explore alternatives to standard lamp shades.

Most lamps come with an existing lamp shade that is may not be attractive or very original. Many items you probably already have around your home can be transformed into alternative lamp shades. Baskets, buckets and even pots can be used for creative lighting fixtures. Look around your home and see what items you can turn into a beautiful lamp shade.

Wicker Wastebasket

Revitalize a wicker wastebasket into a lampshade.

Turn a wicker wastebasket upside down and cut out a hole in the center of the bottom with wire cutters. Make the hole big enough to accommodate a socket and cord. This can be used either as a hanging lamp or pendant lamp, or to replace an existing shade on a table lamp. Baskets that are not considered wastebaskets can also be used to fashion a lampshade; remove any handles that are obstructions.

Colander

Use a colander for a different lamp shade.

Use an old or new metal colander to create a lampshade. Turn colander upside down and drill into the bottom, making one of the existing holes larger. Use a heavy duty drill with a titanium bit. Fit the socket and cord into the opening and use the colander as a hanging light fixture or use as a lampshade for a table or floor lamp.

Buckets

Vintage metal buckets can become lamp shades.

Drill a hole in the center of the bottom of an old metal bucket. Use tin snips to make the hole large enough for a cord and socket. Outfit with a cord and socket package and use upside down as a hanging light. Likewise a bucket can be set upright with a light and cord installed; the light will shine toward the ceiling in an up-lit fashion. Remove the metal handle from the bucket for a better visual presentation, regardless of how you configure the bucket.

Vintage wood buckets can be used in much the same manner, by drilling a hole in the bottom center of the bucket and fitting with a cord and socket mechanism.

Clay Pots

Revitalize terra cotta clay pots for a lamp shade.

Terra cotta clay pots have the advantage of a hole already present in the bottom center. This existing hole makes quick work of installing the cord and socket configuration to create a lamp shade. Use small terra cotta pots in this manner to create hanging pendant lights, or small votive lamps turned upright.

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Hide Pipes In Low Basements

Exposed pipes make a basement seem unfinished.

When you have a basement with a low ceiling, the space can seem closed-in. The presence of pipes, whether on the ceiling itself, or against the wall, give the space an even more confined feel. While these pipes are necessary for a functioning plumbing system, hiding them within your low basement improves the appearance and makes the space appear more finished.

Instructions

1. Wrap any basement pipes with colorful fabrics or faux vines as a low-budget option for concealing their appearance. Use fabrics that match the ceiling color so they blend in or experiment with color by selecting ones that stand out.

2. Cover the pipes with a fabric wall. String a wire across the basement as close to the wall with the pipes as you can get. Cut a piece of fabric that's large enough to cover the wall, or use curtains instead. Attach the fabric to the wire with clips and slide across the pipe wall.

3. Cover your low basement ceiling with fabric if the pipes are above. Measure the ceiling and cut a large enough piece of fabric to cover the area, compensating for the drop-down of the pipes. Attach it to the ceiling with a staple gun.

4. Place a folding screen room divider against any basement walls that contain pipes. Look for one that's tall enough to extend from the floor to the low ceiling height. Unfold it and arrange it so it fits around the pipes. Use more than one for large expanses of pipe.

5. Cover ceiling pipes with faux beams, which are shaped like a "U." These slide over the pipes and don't reduce the ceiling height by more than a couple of inches. Build your own or purchase them premade.

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Plan Pot Lighting

Plan pot lighting to set the ambience of a room.

Energy-efficient pot lights provide more light than standard light bulbs. Pot lights are small, recessed lighting units installed in the ceiling. They are used to set a mood in the room and to highlight room accents with a splash of light from an inconspicuous source. With long-lasting, low-heat and low-energy LED bulbs, planning pot light arrangements makes it possible to have a high-end lighting effect for a fraction of the cost.

Instructions

1. Determine the permanent locations in your room for artwork and room accents. Once the pot lighting is installed, there won't be much room for adjustments. Decorate the walls, furniture surfaces, tabletops and shelves with your favorite decorative accent pieces, and then balance their placement in the room. Use a tape measure to adjust how well the pieces are positioned in relation to other elements in the room.

2. Plan the layout of the pot lights in the ceiling. Use a stud finder to locate the beams in the ceilings. Pot lights make more design sense when they run along the lengths of two opposing walls rather than a single row across the middle of the ceiling.

3. Calculate the number of pot lights you need in your room. Too many pot lights in a row creates a distracting effect, making the lights the focal point instead of the intended highlighted accent pieces. Too few pot lights defeat the purpose and lighting effects.

Measure the length of the ceiling where the pot lighting is to be installed, and divide that measurement by 4 to 6 feet. According to VICAMP Electrical Services, a common pot light placement rule is, "4-inch fixtures should generally be placed at least 4 feet apart, and 6-inch fixtures about 6 feet apart."

4. Select the type and size of pot lighting you want in the room. Pot lighting solutions include flood beam lights that radiate general lighting. Focused spotlights, however, are pointed to shine on specific pieces in the room.

Four-inch pot lights work well in rooms with standard-height ceilings, while larger pot lights are more suited for very high ceilings that position the lights at a great distance from the floor.

5. Hire a professional electrician to install your pot lighting according to your plan. A professional electrician will examine the accuracy of your lighting plans, make necessary adjustments based on your ceiling's contents--such as beams, insulation and wiring--and install the pot lighting in accordance with your local electrical safety codes.

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Popcorn Ceiling Treatments

These ceilings are dubbed popcorn ceilings because they look like popcorn.

A fad in the 1950s through the '80s, popcorn ceilings still exist in many homes today. Popcorn ceilings are also known as acoustic ceilings and refer to a spray-on texture that looks like popcorn. Unfortunately, some older spray applications used to create popcorn ceilings contained asbestos. Therefore, if you have a popcorn ceiling, you should consider treating it appropriately.

Testing for Asbestos

Take extra precaution when removing popcorn ceiling samples for testing.

If your popcorn ceiling was applied prior to the mid-'80s, there is a good chance that it contains asbestos. Before removing the popcorn ceiling yourself, it is important to have the area tested for asbestos so that you do not breathe in the substance. Asbestos is a carcinogen and can cause serious health issues such as lung cancer. To have the ceiling tested for asbestos, call a local certified asbestos testing agency. You may be required to remove samples for testing. If so, be sure to wear a mask and gloves.

Removal Treatments

Use a professional to treat popcorn ceilings through removal.

If it is determined that your popcorn ceiling contains asbestos, let a professional treat the popcorn ceiling through removal. A professional company will make sure your home is not contaminated and dispose of the asbestos properly.

If no asbestos is found and you still would like to remove the popcorn ceiling, you can wet and scrape the texture until it falls off. Removing a popcorn ceiling is very difficult and time consuming.

Patch and Paint Treatments

Patch and paint popcorn ceilings for a fresh look.

Another way to treat popcorn ceilings, after determining no asbestos exists, is to patch and paint the ceiling. This is done to remove any yellowing or damaged spots. To patch the ceiling, sand any damaged areas and apply spackle. You can then use a roller to paint the ceiling, or apply more popcorn ceiling spray. Popcorn ceiling spray made after 1978 should not contain asbestos. To apply paint, use a siped roller to prevent paint from falling. A siped roller is a roller with slits cut into the sponge material.

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Ceiling Insulation Guide

Heat may escape through an uninsulated attic.

Understanding insulation and its uses can assist in selecting the appropriate type for your ceiling. Ceiling insulation serves multiple purposes: It keeps cold out in the winter and coolness in during summer. It acts as an added barrier for a home against varying temperatures. Choosing the right type and installation method maximizes its effect.

R-Value

One of the first things to look at when it comes to insulating a ceiling is the R-Value of the actual insulation. The R-Value of insulation refers to the amount of heat flow the insulation will block. Low R-Value insulation will allow more heat to escape or cold to come in. The lower the R-Value, the more insulation is needed to provide adequate protection for the home. Manufacturers are required to list insulation's R-Value on the label. Consult with a professional for the appropriate level for your particular ceiling.

Battings or Rolls

If choosing to make installation of ceiling insulation a do-it-yourself project, batting or rolls may be the best option. Fiberglass and cellulose insulation are available in long strips, pre-rolled from the manufacturer. These rolls may be placed between the rafters in attics as ceiling insulation. The rolls may be cut to fit corners or oddly shaped areas. They require no special tools for installation, but protective clothing is recommended when working with fiberglass. Multiple layers of the rolls or batting may be stacked for added insulation, though it is noteworthy that compressed insulation loses it's R-Value. The depth of insulation needed varies with the composition but in general ranges from 3 to 5 inches.

Loose Insulation

Foam, fiber or pellet-form insulation is installed in ceilings by blowing with a special tool. This type of insulation is often referred to as "loose." Typically, professional installation is required. A pneumatic tool shoots the material into corners and across attic floors until the area is covered. Several layers may be blown on. Foam insulation expands as it is released for a more solid barrier. If selecting this option, consult with a professional for the best blow-in insulation for the specific ceiling.

Layering

If you find you need more insulation in a ceiling after initial installation, removal of the original product is not typically necessary. You may layer rolls of fiberglass or cellulose over blown-in product or blow in additional insulation over rolled. The key to layering is adding a lighter density or R-Value over a heavier grade. Lighter grades will compress and lose their effectiveness.

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Make A Sheetrock Jack

Welding

Sheetrock jacks are used to lift and hold pieces of drywall in place when applying and attaching it to ceilings. You can make such jacks easily from two-by-fours, but they are only useful if you have somebody to help you with your drywall work. But if you have much mechanical expertise, you can build a Sheetrock jack that will allow you to Sheetrock a ceiling all by yourself.

Instructions

Instructions

1. Cut a 4 1/2-foot length of 2-inch pipe.

2. Securely C-clamp the 2 inch pipe to a workbench. Cut a 3/4 inch slot in the pipe leaving 2 inches at either end.

3. Cut four 4-foot lengths of 2-inch angle iron.

4. Weld the lengths of 2-inch angle iron together to form a square base with a brace through the center. Make sure to turn the angle iron so a flat surface is facing up. Weld a caster to each corner. Weld an metal eyelet to the center back of one of the outside edges.

5. Cut three lengths of 1-inch angle iron, two of them 4 feet long and one 6 feet long. Cut a 5-foot length of 1 1/2-inch pipe.

6. Weld the three pieces of 1-inch angle iron together to form a capital letter "I". Weld the 1 1/2-inch pipe to the center beam of the capital letter "I," making sure to secure it on the flat side of the angle iron.

7. Weld the 2-inch pipe to the center of the caster base, making sure to line up the slot with the eyelet that was welded to the base. Weld a 1 1/2-inch pulley wheel in the top 2-inch opening above the slot. Insert the 1 1/2-inch pipe into the base, making sure to square the "I" with the base.

8. Cut a small tab of metal 2 by 2 inches. Drill a hole in the center of this piece.

9. Weld the 2-by-2-inch tab on the bottom of the 1 1/2-inch pipe 4 inches up from the bottom of the pipe.

10. Connect the wire-rope come-along to the eyelet on the base. Attach the wire rope to the welded tab on the bottom of the 1 1/2-inch pipe. String the wire rope over the pulley and down to the wire-rope come-along.

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Ceiling Ideas For A New Construction

Soffits above cabinets span the gap between their tops and the ceiling.

After roofs, ceilings are the second-most important thing people want to have over their heads. It is easiest to install and finish ceilings in new construction since a previous ceiling does not have to be dealt with. Choose a ceiling that complements the other aspects of the building and helps to create the aesthetic you seek in your space.

Drywall

Drywall ceilings are the most popular ceilings for residential new construction because of their fire resistance, building-code compliance and cost. Even though it's difficult to put drywall on ceilings because it is heavy, there are drywall lifts that make the job manageable. Add texture to drywall ceilings to help acoustics and to create interest. You apply texture with a texture gun, and you can set the gun's nozzle to spray texture in the pattern and thickness you desire. Slide the blade of a putty knife across the freshly sprayed texture to create a hand-trawled plaster look.

Crown Moulding

Add crown moulding to the top of the walls at the ceiling joint. This moulding comes in a wide variety of styles. Pick the style that complements the other trim in the building. Finish the crown moulding in the same way as the other trim, or set it off from either the ceiling or walls by matching one of those colors.

Suspended

Suspended ceilings are very popular in commercial and utility buildings. The space above makes it easy to add and remove electrical wires, cable and phone wires, audio visual cable, computer network wires, plumbing, and even ventilation ductwork. The ceiling tiles set into a metal grid that is suspended with wires from the framing above. There are many styles of tiles. All have some type of texture. Some tiles have edges that fit flush with the grid while the rest of the tile extends below the grid.

Cathedral

Cathedral ceilings work well in small spaces to make them feel more open. In large spaces, they exaggerate the largeness, making them feel grand. Create these ceilings while constructing the building's frame. Use scissors roof trusses that are designed for the building's loads to simplify construction. For a grander look and feel, use architectural-grade king or queen trusses and leave them exposed. To get enough insulation above the ceiling, use structural insulated panels as the roof's outer skin. These panels come in various thicknesses of Styrofoam insulation sandwiched between two sheets of oriented strand board.

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Dispose Of Fiberglass Suspended Ceiling Tiles

Suspended ceiling tiles are common in offices and homes.

Removing and disposing of old tiles from a suspended ceiling is not a difficult job, though it may take some time to accomplish. As long as the tiles do not contain any asbestos, they can be thrown away. If the tiles have asbestos as well as fiberglass, special procedures are required. In most cases, some careful handling and a bit of protective gear is all that is needed to get rid of your old tiles.

Instructions

1. Lay a tarp on the floor under the ceiling tiles. This helps to corral not only the old tiles, but any dust and debris that come down with them.

2. Put on safety goggles, a face mask and gloves. This keeps you from breathing dust or powder from the tiles. Wearing safety equipment also helps insure that you won't get cut or scraped by the panels, or by pieces that come off them.

3. Place a ladder under the tiles you want to remove. Relocate the ladder as you work to reach all of the tiles.

4. Slide each tile out of its framework, lifting it at one end and then angling it so the other end comes down through the opening. Pull it all the way out of the frame and drop it flat on the floor. If you have an assistant, hand it to him and have him stack the tiles to one side, out of the way. Repeat this process until all tiles have been removed from the ceiling.

5. Put some of the tiles into a heavy-duty contractor trash bag and tie the top shut. Don't overload the bag, as it will be difficult to handle and may rip. Only put in as much as you can comfortably lift. Contractor bags are available in discount stores and home centers. These work well for bagging ceiling tiles because of their large size and they are significantly thicker than regular trash bags. Roll up the tarp and dispose of it as well.

6. Place the trash bags out with your trash or haul them to your local dump or landfill. Fiberglass ceiling tiles are normally accepted anywhere that takes other household trash, and can be disposed of in the same way.

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The Best Way To Clean Crystal Chandeliers

A chandelier is one of the most elegant furnishings you can have in your home. However, like most luxurious items, they must be properly cared for. Cleaning a chandelier can be tricky and time-consuming because of its many delicate pieces. But doing so properly and often enough will protect your posh investment, and keep it in the family for years to come.

General Tips

In order to maintain their luminosity, chandeliers should be cleaned once every two to three months, perhaps more often if located near a high-dust or greasy area such as the kitchen. Set up alternate lighting to clean by---never leave the fixture plugged in while you're working with the pieces. You'll also benefit from a quilt or some type of padding at the bottom of the fixture to capture all the dirt. Use cotton gloves when cleaning parts, particularly when cleaning crystal, on which fingerprints can be left easily. Maintenance of complicated light fixtures is always a daunting task, but if it has an extremely large number of pieces, or hangs from a very high ceiling, you should seek out a professional.

Dismantling

If your chandelier is an antique, you'll need to dismantle it in order to clean the pieces individually. The most difficult part is determining which pieces go where, so you'll want to establish that prior to taking the chandelier apart for cleaning. It may help to map out a diagram of the fixture, so you have a better idea of where pieces go once you've cleaned them and are ready to reassemble. More modern styles can usually be cleaned without detaching the pieces from the structure.

The Nitty Gritty

Generally a mild, soap-based detergent is used to clean the pieces, but don't use one that's too harsh, as these can sometimes darken the crystals and ruin the original look of the fixture. You can also mix a solution of 1 part isopropyl alcohol or ammonia with 3 parts distilled water. Or, if you prefer not to mix your own cleaner, you can purchase cleaner specially made for the care of chandeliers from a lighting retailer.

Depending on the fixture's size, shape and level of dirt, you can use a couple of cleaning methods. One way is to put some solution in a spray bottle and spray the entire fixture with the cleanser, avoiding wires and other electrical components. Then let pieces drip dry. However, if your chandelier is too dirty for this process, each crystal will need to be individually cleaned with the solution. Always use soft, lint-free cloths when cleaning. Newspapers and even paper towels can scratch the pieces.

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Repair Damage By Dog To Trim Moulding

Dogs love to chew, and unfortunately, sometimes they chew on things they shouldn't---like the wooden trim moulding in your house. Replacing sections of wood trim can be costly or even impossible if the trim is old and can't be properly matched. If your dog has damaged trim mouldings in your home, by either chewing or scratching, you may be able to repair the damage with a few simple supplies from your local hardware store.

Instructions

1. First, assess the damage. Are the marks shallow or deep? How much trim is damaged? This will help you determine if repairing the trim is possible, or worth the effort. Heavily damaged trim might need to be replaced completely; however, smaller chew marks can be easily patched.

2. Next, make sure you have the right color paint to match the surrounding trim after the repair is completed. If you no longer have the original paint can from when the trim was last painted, peel off a sample chip from the damaged area before starting any repair work. Bring the chip to your local hardware or paint store and they will help you find the correct color match.

3. Clean dirt off the area to be repaired and use a utility knife to remove any large wood splinters.

4. Following the directions on the can, use the wood putty to fill in the chew marks and scratches in the trim moulding. Use the putty knife to push the putty into deeper holes or cracks, and to shape the putty to roughly mimic the curves of the trim moulding. It is not necessary to make the putty flush---wood putty will shrink as is dries.

5. Allow putty to dry. Use sandpaper to smooth out the putty and further match the surrounding trim moulding's shape. Use the steel wool to buff the putty to a smooth finish. Clean up dust with a damp cloth.

6. Finish the repair by painting the wood putty to match the rest of the trim moulding.

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Ceiling Design Options

A ceiling can add both style and function to a room. You can make big changes, like installing a skylight, or you can focus on smaller ones such as texture. One of the most familiar cheap and easy ceiling textures is the popcorn ceiling, but other options are available.

Planning

Look at how you use your room; for example, a considered use of crown molding can help accentuate a formal room. You might want to improve on something in a functional sense, like brightening up the room. In that case, paint shades or skylights will be more helpful.

Style

Consider how the ceiling is adding to or detracting from the overall style in a room. Exposed wood beams would go well with a rustic interior, and exposed pipes might add architectural interest in a polished environment.

Ceiling Shapes

If you are interested in making big changes, consider the shape of your ceiling. Some basic shapes include: a vaulted ceiling, described as the shape of a barrel cut in half; a cathedral ceiling, which is a high ceiling that slopes; and a tray ceiling, which can be described as a tray above your head with its base facing up. Two other types are the cove, where the tops of the walls are curved into an arch; and a shed, which is the shape of half a cathedral ceiling.

Ceiling Accents

The ceiling can be altered by adding accents. One of the simplest ways to do this is to paint the surface. You can make a high ceiling warmer by using darker paint shades. Skylights bring more light in a room. Molding and trim can add character. Grid ceilings are useful when you want to hide wiring and pipes, they come in a variety of colors and shapes. Finally, textures like wood paneling or stucco will bring warmth and character.

Other considerations

When looking at your options, think about the hidden costs and time it will take to tend to your ceiling. A cathedral ceiling costs a lot of money to heat. Painting, cleaning and replacing light bulbs on high ceilings can be cumbersome.

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Dining Room Ceiling Ideas

Fixtures on the dining room ceiling make a statement.

Remodel your ceiling using treatments such as panel and crown moldings, recessed trays, ceiling medallions and other architectural décor to add dimension to your dining room. These items are available in an array of sizes for a custom fit for your room, no matter how small or large it is.

Getting Started

Before making changes to your ceiling, take care of general repairs first. Hard coverings for ceilings (fiber planks and wood) don't typically require cracks to be repaired, but if the crack runs the entire length of the dining room you should find out the cause before remodeling. If you're planning on adding layered drywall, medallions or wallpaper to your ceiling, repair and clean it first using diluted trisodium phosphate (TSP), and fill drywall cracks with drywall mud and tape.

Tray Ceilings

Since dining rooms are often small, a tray ceiling is a creative way to make the room look larger than it is. Tray ceilings feature more than one flat horizontal surface at different levels. They can either be recessed or inverted. Recessed tray ceilings in a dining room make a low ceiling look higher. Add subtle lighting and crown molding to further enhance dining experiences.

Ceiling Medallions

Ceiling medallions are the easiest change that you can make to your ceiling, and can be done yourself. Stick with lightweight polyurethane foam for ease of use. You're not limited to just white medallions either; they are available in a variety of woodlike and metallic finishes, and can even feature a mirror in the center. These can be used to enhance molding and draw attention to light fixtures and chandeliers.

Wallpaper

Using wallpaper on your dining room ceiling provides a variety of design options because of the wide selection of textures and patterns on the market. If you'd like to make your dining room look larger, stick with light colors.

Use Layered Drywall

Single-thickness drywall added to the ceiling emphasizes the entire area and fits well with wainscoting and raised panels in the dining room. It's also helpful for separating the living room from the dining room, if they share the same space.

Panels

Panels can give your dining room a traditional, old-fashioned look and feel. Materials include wood and mineral-fiber (imitation wood). Mineral-fiber panels are also available in white to add light to a dark room.

Chandeliers

Chandeliers add a touch of elegance to any dining room and are available in traditional crystal and modern structure forms. Choose a chandelier that isn't too large, as you don't want it to overwhelm the room.

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Exterior Trim Options

Wood trim requires regular maintenance.

Traditional wood trim has long been a popular choice for exterior trim. Along with the beauty of wood comes many years of maintenance. Wood tends to crack, rot and suffer from peeling paint. Wood is still a viable option for trim but many people are looking for low-maintenance alternatives or would like to save some trees. For those people, there are several exterior trim options available.

Foam

Stucco homes can be trimmed with stucco-coated foam trim.

The perfect trim for a stucco exterior is stucco-coated foam. This type of trim comes in hundreds of shapes and is easy to install. Stucco foam trim is lightweight, durable and weather-resistant. Do-it-yourselfers will find this trim ready to cut, glue, caulk and paint.

Plastic

Plastic trim is a low-maintenance substitute for wood trim. High density polyurethane trim is available with a variety of profiles for around windows and doors, fascia, friezes and balustrades. Plastic trim is purchased primed and ready to paint or stain. You can stain plastic trim for a simulated wood finish.

Wood Composite

Composite wood trim provides the look and feel of wood by chemically combining resin with sawdust using heat and pressure. This is an engineered product that looks and feels like wood but does not warp, crack, cup or split. Composite wood trim comes with a wood-grain texture on one side and smooth on the other for a choice that will suit the style of the home.

PVC

PVC trim is weather-, moisture- and termite-resistant. It has a wood-grain texture and is available in white only but can be painted with paints designed especially for PVC. Check with paint manufacturers for details. PVC trim is typically used with vinyl or fiber cement siding but could accent nearly any home with style. PVC trim is common in high humidity areas and on waterfronts.

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Paint Tall Ceilings

If you don't paint a ceiling properly, you can strain your neck and arms. A tall

ceiling is more difficult to reach, causing potentially more strain. But you can avoid neck and arm strain without taking the expensive route of hiring someone.

Instructions

1. A flat oil based paint is best for ceilings. Oil based paint repels stains and covers a given area with less paint than latex paint. The flat finish can cover large surfaces easier than a glossy or semigloss finish. It also doesn't reflect as much light and will not distract from the colors of your walls.

2. Use the correct roller. If you use latex paint, use a synthetic nylon roller. If the surface is rough, use a thick roller to reach into all of the crevices. For flat surfaces, use a thin roller. Use an extension for the pole your roller is attached to so you can reach the high ceiling without causing neck and arm tension.

3. Use a ladder. Stand comfortably and steadily on a ladder so that you can reach and paint the tall ceiling easier. Flip down the tray holder on the opposite side of the ladder place the paint tray onto it, or keep the tray of paint on the floor, whichever is easier for you.

4. Pour paint into a tray and roll your roller through the tray to load paint onto it. Avoid paint droppings. Paint tends to drip more when painting tall ceilings; you can become covered in paint if you are not careful. Avoid drips by making sure you don't put too much paint on the roller. Also, don't roll the roller across the ceiling too quickly.

5. Instead of using a roller, you can spray paint the high ceiling. This method is a faster and easier method of painting a tall ceiling than using a roller and extension. You will still need a ladder and you will need to remove any furniture in the room and make sure that the floor is completely covered. Walls will probably get some paint sprayed onto them.

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Decorate A Dated Bathroom

Don't let a dated bathroom dull your decor.

If your bathroom's tiny pink tiles or aqua porcelain fixtures give away its age, you're never going to fool people into thinking it's the latest modern design. But your vintage bathroom doesn't have to look dated. Use your bathroom's best features to your advantage. Add accessories and decorate touches to accentuate the positive and downplay the negative and help your vintage bathroom blend in with your up-to-date decor.

Instructions

1. Repaint the bathroom in a neutral or complementary color. New paint freshens any look and if your bathroom is small you can change the look inexpensively with a single gallon of paint. Paint everything in a crisp, fresh white, or choose a color that complements the tile and fixtures. If you have a blue toilet and sink from the seventies, paint the walls a darker shade of blue. Or go for contrast with a rich, tomato red. If you inherited pink tile, chocolate brown walls add a modern look, or go for a more Victorian feel with burgundy walls. You can also repaint woodwork and cabinets the same color for a sleek, streamlined look.

2. Update the accessories. New towel and toilet paper holders and faucets can change the whole look of your bathroom. Oiled bronze or polished nickel fixtures can give the oldest bathroom a modern look. While you're at it, change the light fixtures. Replace a ceiling globe light with a small chandelier, or add sconces in place of round white bulbs over the mirror.

3. Add new curtains, shower curtain and rugs. Textiles add texture, warmth and style to your bathroom for much less money than a total makeover. Turn that pink-tiled bathroom into a romantic hideaway with lace and gauze curtains and plush white rugs, or give the blue fixtures a nautical theme with sisal mats and navy and white curtains and towels.

4. Mix in unexpected accessories. Install an electric fireplace and mantle, a bubbling fountain, or a trompe l'oeil mural depicting a Tuscan garden on one wall of your bathroom. You can purchase murals at stores that sell wall coverings. Add live plants to your bathroom if the room gets natural light, or install life-like silk plants. If your bathroom has the space, add a padded bench for seating or a wine rack to hold spare towels. Hang framed posters on the walls.

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Ceiling Beadboard Panel Treatment

Ceiling Beadboard Panel Treatment

Ceiling bead board has been a common application among homeowners and contractors for the last half century. It can be installed with ease, and after it has been painted, stained or finished, it is unrivaled by any other ceiling application. The average do-it-yourself homeowners can install bead board on their ceilings in one to two days, depending on the size of the project. If you are planning on installing bead board on your ceiling, then you should know about the materials and techniques available for a successful project.

Application

Paint Styrofoam Ceiling Tiles

Don't use a nylon brush, as this will leave flaws in the finish.

If you would like to paint Styrofoam ceiling tiles, consider a couple of critical points before you get started. Certain types of paint will melt Styrofoam surfaces. Select the appropriate base and finish coat, or you may permanently damage the ceiling. Many times, Styrofoam ceilings tiles are hung within a metal frame. Unfortunately, metallic surfaces require a special acidic base coat before they will accept a painted finish. Prepare each surface in the appropriate manner, or your final finish may flake and fall to the ground.

Instructions

1. Clear all items from the room.

2. Dust the Styrofoam ceiling tiles with a broom.

3. Line the tops of walls adjacent to the Styrofoam ceiling tiles with professional painter's tape. Cover the floor with fabric drop cloths.

4. Fill a 1-gallon painter's pot to one-quarter capacity with metal self-etching primer. Use a polyester paintbrush to apply etching primer to the exposed metal frame between each tile. Wait three hours for the frame to dry. Skip this step if there is no frame. Wash the brush with water.

Modern Uses Of Electricity & Lighting

Electricity is delivered to millions of homes for heat, communication, entertainment and other needs.

Electricity was once little more than a novelty, used to massage feet and for wild experiments. Since then, electronics have infiltrated virtually every part of our society and industry from how we manufacture goods to how we bank money and even how we store food. Additionally, electricity and electronics have made it possible for light to perform functions never conceived of in earlier ages.

To Communicate

Electricity has given people of many nations and cultures a chance to communicate ideas, transmit news and to provide educational information for people of other cultures to benefit from. Because of electricity, learn-at-home language courses can help millions of people around the world to speak French, English, Spanish and more, and because of electrical systems such as cell phones, calls can be placed from busy city centers to the most remote parts of the globe. The Internet is another innovation of electronics. This allows millions to communicate with friends, families and colleagues, to broadcast their interests to the general public, and to entertain and educate themselves with videos and text available in a virtual world maintained entirely by electronic servers and computer systems.

To Heal

Electronics and light, especially in the form of laser light, have been integral in many treatments of illnesses from the mundane to the deadly. Laser eye surgery can improve the vision, while electronic incubators keep premature babies healthy and happy in a disease-free and temperature-controlled environment. Emergency workers rely on both light and electricity when driving to the scene of a crash or to a heart attack victim's home, and electric shocks can be used to start a person's heart after it stops. Perhaps most importantly, electronics and parts of the light spectrum are used in medical research to find cures and treatments for diseases, viruses and conditions such as influenza, cancer and AIDS.

To Sell

Perhaps the greatest benefactor of electricity and light is the marketplace. Lights are used not only to illuminate homes at night, but in devices such as cell phones, computer displays, cars, televisions and even advanced computer processors. Electronics and laser lighting have led to greater precision and efficiency in mass production, the ability to buy and sell goods anywhere in the world and the ability to carry your entire fortune and credit rating on a small plastic card with an electro-magnetic strip.

Tags: cell phones, electronics have, such cell, such cell phones

Install Ceiling Insulation

A home or garage has many places that may require insulation and include the ceiling. Access an attic or crawlspace to reach the ceiling in your house or garage. A typical ceiling has rafters that span the width of the house that are usually covered on the bottom side with drywall. Installing insulation should be done shortly after a new ceiling has been installed.

Instructions

1. Determine what type of insulation to use. A ceiling with rafters can be insulated using fiberglass batts that are bundled rolls 6 inches to 8 inches thick.

2. Determine the appropriate R-value that will suit your needs. Use the form on the Department of Energy's website (see Resources) to find the R-value that is recommended.

3. Measure the spacing between the rafters in the ceiling. The standard width between rafters is typically 16 inches. Anything less will require cutting the insulation to make it fit properly.

4. Measure the length of the rafter to determine how long a piece of insulation will be needed. Use a utility knife to cut the required length of insulation.

5. Place the insulation between the studs in the rafter. Use a utility knife to cut the insulation to fit around air ducts and pipes.

6. Repeat Steps 4 and 5 until the ceiling has been completely insulated.

Tags: between rafters, ceiling been, R-value that, utility knife

Install Molding With No Nails

A no-nails approach to installing molding in the home.

Molding added to the home provides a finished look. Ideally, molding is fastened to the wall or cabinet with finishing nails for a tight and professional installation. There may be times when nailing is prohibitive, in which case you can install molding without nails using construction grade adhesive.

Instructions

1. Choose the molding you wish to install. Lightweight wood is best for construction glue. Prime and paint, if necessary, prior to cutting the molding.

2. Clean and dry all surfaces prior to installing the molding. Make sure there is no loose paint or drywall.

3. Measure the area of the wall or cabinet where you will install the molding, and lay the molding flat on the bottom of the miter saw, face side up. Cut the molding with a miter saw to the appropriate angle. Lightly sand the rough edges with sandpaper.

4. Dry-fit the cut molding to see how it will fit. Place it against the wall, and butt the other cut pieces up to it to ensure that the angles and fit works.

5. Insert the Liquid Nails cartridge into the caulking gun, and cut off 1/4 inch of the plastic tip with a blade at a 45-degree angle. Puncture the inner seal of the canister.

6. Lay the molding down on a clean work area, face down, and apply a 1/4 inch bead of Liquid Nails in a zigzag pattern to the length of the molding. Let it set up for a minute or so.

7. Place the molding with adhesive up to the wall or area you are installing the molding to. Firmly press into place and hold tightly against the wall, and lift off for one to three minutes before pressing back into place. Work with the molding and adhesive for up to 10 minutes before it dries.

Tags: installing molding, against wall, install molding, into place, Liquid Nails, minutes before, molding with

Repair A Socket Switch For A Floor Lamp

Floor lamps and table lamps typically use the same type of light socket for the bulb. When the light no longer works and you are sure the bulb is not faulty, it might be necessary to repair or replace the light socket. Repairing a socket switch for a floor lamp is limited to a few minor adjustments. If the adjustments do not resolve the issue, then you will have to replace the socket switch. Replacement socket switches for floor lamps and table lamps are available at hardware stores and home improvement centers.

Instructions

1. Unplug the floor lamp power cord from the wall outlet. Disconnect the shade from the lamp. Depending upon the type of floor lamp you own, the shade might screw off, or there may be a clip you compress to remove the shade from the lamp.

2. Check the light bulb before making any repairs. Sometimes the bulb is not securely screwed into the socket. Turn the bulb clockwise with your fingers. If it was loose, plug the lamp cord back into the socket and try turning on the light. If it was not loose, turn the light bulb counterclockwise and remove it from the socket.

3. Tighten the set screw at the base of the socket with a flat-head screwdriver if the socket spins on the lamp. Usually the set screw works loose, resulting in a spinning socket. Press the body of the socket into the base if it has popped loose. The socket body snaps into the base.

4. Pry the socket body out of the base if the socket does not appear to have damage but the light does not work. Slide a small flat-head screwdriver between the socket base and socket body, and pry the body out of the base.

5. Find the two terminal screws that secure the wires to the bottom of the socket. One of the wires may be broken off from the terminal. Loosen both terminal screws and remove the wires from the socket. If both wires are connected, the problem is most likely a faulty socket, which will require a new replacement socket switch.

6. Loosen the screw that secures the socket base if you're replacing it with a new one. Insert the wires through the bottom of the socket base and secure the new base to the lamp with the retaining screw. Strip off ¼ inch of the plastic insulation from the ends of both wires with a pair of wire strippers.

7. Bend small hooks at the end of each wire. Place the hook ends of the wires around the neck of each terminal screw. Tighten the screws with a flat-head screwdriver to secure the wires. Press the body of the socket with the wires into the socket base until it snaps in place.

8. Screw in a new light bulb and reinstall the lamp shade. Plug the floor lamp power cord back into the light socket.

Tags: base socket, socket base, flat-head screwdriver, floor lamp, into socket

Identify Vintage Lamps

Vintage items fall into a span of time ranging from 20 years ago to 100 years ago. Lamps manufactured 100 years ago or more are considered antiques. Lamps made in the last 20 years are considered recently manufactured. Not all lamps created during a vintage time period will be in original condition. Some may have new shades or new cords and may even have had repairs made to various design details. It can be more difficult for you to pin down the authenticity of repaired lamps. A manufacturer's name, a date, or a location of the manufacturer can narrow down the possibilities.

Instructions

1. Identify the time period considered vintage. Subtract 20 years from the current year and then subtract 100 years from the current year; that gives you the 80-year range of vintage lamps. For example, 2010 minus 20 is 1990, and 2010 minus 100 is 1910. Vintage lamps in the year 2010 are those manufactured between 1990 and 1910.

2. Examine the lamp from all angles for a maker's mark, a date or a place of manufacture.

3. Photograph the lamp in full height and in detail. Include any ornate carving, printing, cords, plugs, harps or design features. Carry the photos when doing research or consulting with an expert.

4. Note the shape of the lamp, the types of materials used, the switches and the general condition of the lamp. Similarities and differences between the lamp and a vintage style or era will help identify when the lamp was made and who the manufacturer might be.

5. Research the design periods that fall into the vintage category by reading about interior design, historic lighting, lamp manufacturers, vintage lamp prices and the history of lamps from the 80-year period you have determined. Price lists are often included in vintage lamp catalogs. Search libraries, bookstores and online for research materials.

6. Visit antique and vintage stores and examine lamps that are similar. Ask the manager about their history, who the manufacturer might be and where they were made. Show the manager the photos of the lamp needing identification and ask about its possible time period.

Tags: time period, 2010 minus, current year, fall into, from current, from current year, manufacturer might

Replace A Kitchen Fluorescent Light With Track Lighting

If you're ready to redesign your kitchen, consider track lighting. These versatile lights allow you to light whichever part of your kitchen needs it and give a modern, stylish look to your eating and cooking areas. If you currently have fluorescent lights in your kitchen, you can replace the fixtures with track lighting yourself.

No Additional Wiring

If you decide to replace fluorescent fixtures with track lighting, you won't have to worry about rewiring your kitchen. Track lights use the same wires as the fixtures you're replacing, which makes installation a lot simpler. You just have to purchase the fixtures you want and install them in your kitchen. You might be able to do it yourself if you're comfortable with setting up electric fixtures.

Advantages

Replacing a fluorescent light with track lighting provides additional light for your kitchen. In addition, track lighting is flexible, so you can adjust the lights to shine in the areas you need them the most rather than installing several fixtures to light your entire kitchen. Track lighting is easy enough to install that you should be able to do it yourself rather than calling a professional.

Process

If you want to install track lighting, turn the electricity off to your kitchen. For extra safety, check the wiring in your electrical box with a circuit tester to ensure that no electricity is flowing through it. Remove the fluorescent fixture, being careful not to tear or break any of the wires. Attach the wires in the track lighting to the wires in the electric box. Screw the track into the ceiling, and put in the bulbs before turning the electricity back on.

Warnings

If you don't turn off the electricity before installing the new fixture, you might receive a fatal electric shock. It's crucial to check and double-check that the electricity is off. Turn your old light on before turning off the electricity, and check that the light goes off. After connecting your new fixture and you smell smoke or see the lights flicker, stop using the fixture, and call an electrician. Something is wrong with your wires, and it can cause an electrical fire.

Tags: your kitchen, track lighting, able yourself, before turning, before turning electricity

Use Romex When Wiring A Light

Use Romex to rewire that old light fixture for safety.

Romex is a type of wire that is used primarily for home wiring. It's a term for nonmetallic sheathed cable. Three wires are inside a protective coating that keeps the wires protected from the elements. There is a black wire, a white wire and a bare, or ground, wire. Romex wire is not for use in buildings taller than three stories. The two standard sizes of Romex wire are 14/2, which is used for 15-amp circuits, and 12/2, which is used for 20-amp circuits. Use the right wire for the circuit.

Instructions

1. Measure along the wiring route from the light to the light switch with your tape measure. Add a few feet to that measurement to make sure you have enough. It must be one piece of wire without any splicing of wires to lengthen it. Turn the main power off at the fuse box to avoid accidental shocks.

2. Cut the wire to length with wire cutters. Feed the wire through the wall or ceiling, starting from the light fixture. Make sure to give yourself a little extra wire at the light end for you to work with. Do not connect the Romex to the switch box. Let it hang down beside the box until the end of the wiring process.

3. Prepare the wires for connecting to the light fixture first. Using the knife, carefully cut approximately 6 inches of the outer coating off the Romex. Spread the three wires apart. Remove approximately 3/4 inch of coating off the black and white wires with your wire strippers. Twist each braided wire separately between your thumb and forefinger to stop the wire from separating.

4. Bend the black wire from the Romex around the bronze screw on the light fixture and tighten the screw. Repeat the process with the white wire, attaching it to the silver screw on the light fixture. Bend the bare copper wire around and under the large-head ground screw and screw it in firmly inside the electrical box. If your fixture has a black and white wire coming out of it, twist the wires together. Twist the black wire of the fixture to the black wire of the Romex and screw on an electrical grommet. Do the same with the two white wires. Attach the bare copper wire to the ground screw in the electrical box. If there is a ground wire from the fixture, attach that to the ground screw in the electrical box.

5. Tuck the wires into the light's electrical box with your fingers while fitting the light fixture into position. Screw the light fixture in place.

6. Repeat Step 3 for the Romex wire at the light-switch end. Unscrew the light switch from the wall and attach the black wire of the Romex to the bronze screw of the light switch and tighten the screw. Attach the white wire to the silver screw. Tighten the bare copper wire to the switch box with the ground screw.

7. Repeat Steps 1 through 6 to wire the switch to the fuse box with Romex. Once you have the wire from the switch to the fuse box wired, screw the light switch back in place. Screw a bulb into the light fixture. Turn the power back on at the fuse box and turn on the light at the switch.

Tags: light fixture, black wire, light switch, ground screw, white wire, wire from

Cut Plastic Molding Without Melting It

Plastic molding is typically made of polyvinyl chloride (PVC) and is installed on both the interior and exterior of buildings. It is less challenging to install than wood molding because of its lighter weight and greater flexibility. When traditional cutting blades are used to cut plastic molding, they dull quickly and become clogged with dust, which causes them to overheat. The excessive heat buildup sometimes melts the edges of the molding. When cutting plastic molding, choose a sharper blade that does not dull.

Instructions

1. Measure the area where you are installing the plastic molding to determine the proper length.

2. Lay the plastic molding on a flat work table and measure to determine where it must be cut. Draw a line in the location using a pencil. Clamp the molding to the work surface using table clamps so that it hangs off the edge by 2 to 3 inches and the pencil line does not touch the table

3. Put on safety glasses and install a carbide-tipped cutting blade into a circular saw, band saw, reciprocating saw, multiple blade gang rip saw or other woodworking saw.

4. Turn the saw on and move the blade toward the pencil line on the plastic molding. Cut all the way through the length of the pencil line at a steady pace, allowing the saw blade to pull its way through with little additional effort. Turn the saw off.

5. Loosen the table clamps to remove the plastic molding and proceed with installation.

Tags: pencil line, plastic molding, plastic molding, table clamps

Vilano Bathroom Decorations

Vilana decor is about bringing elements of the ocean into the home.

Vilano decor refers to an interior decorating style that gives a nod to Vilano Beach, a community located in St. John's County, Florida. In essence, decorating in Vilano style means creating a beachlike atmosphere in a room, bringing the beach life indoors.

Style of Decor

A Vilano-inspired bathroom brings the natural elements of the beach into the home. Shells, pebbles, sea sponges, starfish and driftwood all have a place in this style. You can easily incorporate a porthole-shaped mirror and old, weathered bottles. Beach style decor can be anything you want it to be, ranging from elegant to whimsical.

Where to Find Decor

Look to the beach for your inspiration and your supplies. The colors you use in the Vilano-style bathroom should be those you see as you sit by the water: aquas, blues, greens, tans and whites. You can decorate using that old collection of shells, starfish and pebbles you have picked up from the beach. Look through area antique stores for other old pieces, like bottles, mirrors, wall sconces and frames.

Put It Together

In an area as small as the average bathroom, less is more when it comes to decorating. Cover the walls in a soothing beachside shade that blends well with your existing flooring. Layer in one piece of decor at a time until you're satisfied with the atmosphere of the room. Hang the mirror, place a few shells in a crystal bowl, add a driftwood shelf with a starfish sitting on it, hang coordinating towels and, viola, you have an elegant Vilano-inspired room.

Tags: atmosphere room, into home

Mount A Flat Screen On Wood Paneling

Mount your flat-screen television on a paneled wall.

Flat-screen televisions can be mounted on a stand or hung on the wall. There are three types of wall mounts available. The flat mount gives you the lowest profile, with the least flexibility. A tilting mount allows you to change the angle of the television, in an up or down direction. The articulating mount gives you maximum flexibility, in both horizontal and vertical movements. The mounts contain two parts. The first part attaches to the back of the television, with screws that come with the mounting bracket. The second part attaches to the wall.

Instructions

1. Determine the best height for the television for your situation. Lay the television on a flat surface, with the screen down. Ensure that you protect the screen. Rest the television portion of the bracket on the back of the television and line up the threaded inserts on the television with the mounting slots on the bracket. Center the bracket on the back of the television. Find the correct screws for your television and securely attach the bracket.

2. Place the wall portion of the bracket on the wall at the desired location. Mark the upper and lower mounting slot locations on the wall with a pencil. Remove the bracket from the wall.

3. Use a stud-finder to locate the studs along the area marked on the wall. Mark the stud locations where they intersect with the mounting locations. Determine the maximum-size lag screw that will fit through the mounting slots. This will probably be 5/16 inch or 3/8 inch. To ensure that the television will be straight, line up the marks with a level.

4. Drill a hole 1/8 inch smaller than the lag screw at the four marked locations. For example: if the lag screw is going to be 3/8 inch, drill a 1/4 inch hole. Use a small drill bit initially to ensure that you have located a wall stud.

5. Bolt the wall portion of the frame to the wall with the lag screws. Pull on the frame to ensure that it is securely anchored to the wall.

6. Lift the television with one or two helpers and carefully hook the television portion of the bracket onto the wall portion. Ensure that the two halves of the frame are secure. Tighten the retaining screws that lock the frame together using the tool supplied with the frame.

Tags: back television, portion bracket, television with, wall portion, with mounting, bracket back

Support A 32foot Sagging Wood Beam

Wood beams

Wood beams can sag if they are undersized for the weight they must carry or the distance they must span. They can sag if damaged by exposure to water, fire or termites. Sagging is an aesthetic problem, but more importantly, it is a serious indication of ongoing structural failure.Wood beams of less than 20 feet can usually be repaired by anyone with an understanding of residential carpentry. Contact a licensed structural engineer to recommend repairs for beams longer than 20 feet. After inspections and calculations, the engineer will recommend replacement of the beam, reinforcement of the beam or adding intermediate columns to support the sag. These recommendations should be summarized in a structural engineer's report.

Instructions

Support a 32-Foot Sagging Wood Beam

1. Remove all furnishings, storage or miscellaneous items from the floor that the sagging beam supports. If the beam supports a roof, remove snow and any unattached items on the roof to reduce as much weight from the beam as possible.

2. Use the tape measure to mark locations recommended by the structural engineer to install adjustable steel columns to support the sagging beam.

3. Move the adjustable steel columns to their recommended locations. Hand-tighten the top support plate to gently hold the column in place. Use a level to straighten each column to a perpendicular position.

4. Nail each adjustable column's base and top plates in place. The structural engineer's recommendations will include the number and length of nails and horizontal bracing, if required.

5. Tighten and raise each adjustable top plate as recommended by the structural engineer. Do not reduce the depth of the beam's sag, or attempt to level the floor, without specific instructions from the engineer.

6. Replace items removed from the floor or roof above the beam prior to installation of the columns.

Tags: structural engineer, Wood beams, adjustable steel, adjustable steel columns, beam supports, each adjustable

Paint A Ceiling White

Paint, or cut in, the edges of the ceiling first.

Paint changes the feeling of an area, breathing new life and cleanliness to tired old rooms. An often-overlooked aspect of painting is the ceiling -- many people focus solely on the walls and leave the same dingy, dirty paint in place overhead. You don't have to follow the lead of the various television designers and splash a rainbow of colors across a ceiling; applying a couple of coats of basic white paint finishes the look of the room and acts as the proverbial cherry on top.

Instructions

1. To prepare the room for painting, remove furniture and other objects, including window curtains. Cover the floor with plastic sheets. Wash the ceiling with soapy water and allow it to dry. Tape the upper edges of the walls to keep paint from ending up in unintended places.

2. Use a 2- or 3-inch-wide paintbrush to apply white primer to the edges of the ceiling, a process called cutting in. Paint it along the edges to at least the width of the brush.

3. Wash and set aside the paintbrush. Dip a paint roller in the primer, wiping the excess off on the edge of the paint tray.

4. Begin rolling in one corner of the room. Apply the primer in a three-foot wide M shape with four strokes of the roller. Switch directions at the end of the M and make another M adjacent to the first, filling in more of the unpainted ceiling. Continue until the entire ceiling is primed.

5. Allow the primer to dry, which can take several hours. Wash the paint roller.

6. Apply white paint to the ceiling once the primer is dry, using the same techniques you used for the primer. To avoid clearly visible lines in the paint, cut in the ceiling one edge at a time if using a semi-gloss or gloss latex paint or an alkyd-based paint; don't cut in the next edge until you approach it with the roller. Continue painting until the ceiling is evenly coated.

7. Allow the paint to dry. Inspect the dry ceiling for paint strokes, even coloration and any sign of the previous color showing through the white paint.

8. Apply a second coat if necessary. Allow it to dry completely, then inspect the ceiling again. Continue adding coats until the ceiling is a smooth, uniform and clear shade of white.

Tags: white paint, edges ceiling, paint ceiling, paint roller, until ceiling

Paint Wood Wall Paneling

Back in the '80s you spent two weekends putting up that nice wood paneling in your den. Now you're wondering what you were thinking, because you'll have to spend three weekends taking it down, sanding the walls and repainting. Why not just paint the paneling and save the time for something fun?

Instructions

1. Fill any gouges, mail holes or cracks with wood putty of the same color as the paneling. If you have the grooved wood paneling, you may want to fill it in with joint compound.

2. Sand the filled areas smooth. You will also want to go over the entire surface with fine sandpaper on a sanding block. This will help the primer stick.

3. Use an all-purpose household cleaner and a sponge to clean the paneling. Wipe everything down and don't be afraid to scrub.

4. Apply a top-quality, stain-blocking alkyd primer. This will keep the paint's color true and prevent paneling's color from bleeding through.

5. Choose the best acrylic latex paint you can afford. Acrylic latex dries quickly and remains flexible, cutting down on peeling and chipping.

6. Apply two coats of paint when the primer is dry.

Tags: This will, wood paneling

Put Drywall Over Paneling

Drywall can be installed over wood paneling that is in good condition.

Paneling was once a popular wallcovering in many homes. Today, as these older homes are remodeled, the paneling is removed or covered. Removing paneling can be a time-consuming and costly so many homeowners opt to drywall over the paneling. Installing drywall over paneling is a workable solution if it is done properly.

Problems

In most cases, the drywall can be installed directly over the top of the paneling. Screws are used to connect the drywall through the paneling and into the wall studs. However, in many cases the thickness of the paneling and drywall does not match well with the window and door framing and moldings. You will need to address these differences prior to drywalling over the paneling.

Hanging

Find the studs in the wall using an electric stud finder to locate the studs and mark them on the wall with a pencil or marker. Remove the existing moldings from around the windows and doors with a pry bar. Starting at the bottom of the wall, install sheets of drywall over the paneling and screw it into place with screws along the studs. Once all of the drywall is in place add wood pieces to the window and door jambs. Screw or nail these pieces of wood in place. The lumber should stick out 1/32 inch past the drywall. Reinstall the molding around the doors and windows.

Finishing

Finishing entails connecting the seams between the pieces of installed drywall. Spread a thin layer of drywall mud over the seams with a putty knife. Set mudding tape into the mud and then cover the tape with another layer of drywall mud. Let the mud dry overnight and then sand it down. Repeat as necessary until the wall is smooth. Paint the finished walls with primer and then paint in your desired color.

Options

Instead of spending hours of time and a lot of cash, consider painting the paneling. Before painting, scrub the paneling to remove dirt and dust. Use a quality primer and then paint the paneling. Painted paneling can brighten the look of any room. You can get rid of the ridges in the paneling by spreading drywall mud in them. Use a trowel to smooth the mud into the ridges and let it dry. Lightly sand and then prime and paint.

Tags: over paneling, drywall over, drywall over, drywall over paneling, layer drywall, primer then

Paint A Basement Ceiling Black

Using a brush to paint a basement ceiling may not be the best option.

A finished basement can be a great addition to your home's living space. While there are several methods to finishing the ceiling, instead of installing a drop ceiling or a drywall ceiling in your basement, you might consider using an airless paint sprayer to paint the joists and duct work. You could try to apply the paint with brushes and paint rollers, but that is impractical. There are just too many angles and obstacles involved to get it to look good.

Instructions

1. Prepare basement walls to prevent over spray by taping at least one sheet of newspaper around the entire perimeter of the basement.

2. Cover any appliances, like washers and dryers, with plastic sheathing and turn off the furnace and hot water heater before covering them.

3. Using an electric paint sprayer, apply paint to the basement ceiling by keeping the sprayer at least 12 to 15 inches from joist and duct work, while using smooth and even strokes. Make sure to read the owner's manual to get the best result for your particular sprayer model.

4. Use a paintbrush to get to hard to reach areas and around duct work.

Tags: duct work, apply paint, paint basement, paint basement ceiling, paint sprayer

Traditional Ceiling Chandeliers

Traditional chandeliers add elegance to a room,

Traditional ceiling chandeliers are vintage lighting: they are actual antiques or, more likely and far less costly, reproductions of antiques. Vintage chandeliers manufactured today are based on an array of styles from America and Europe produced in the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries. Traditional chandeliers add elegance and appeal to home designs. They are used in dining rooms, foyers, halls, living-room areas and, most recently, kitchens.

History

These chandeliers are much more elaborate than those that first appeared in churches.

The first chandeliers appeared in medieval times, from the 5th to the 15th centuries, in churches. They were shaped like a cross, with candles at each end of the cross that would be lit before the unit was hoisted by rope to the ceiling, After the 15th century, chandeliers became more ornate and their popularity increased. By the 18th century, they lit the homes of the wealthy. Then, many were elaborate and cast in brass, with numerous candles and curved arms--extensions from the column, or center of the chandelier, which held the candle cups.

Crystal

Crystal chandeliers sparkle with light.

In the 18th century, glass production techniques developed and it became cheaper to produce lead crystal, specially cut glass treated with lead oxide to produce the famous, highly reflective and sparkling light. Crystal chandeliers appeared then. The best known types of crystals developed include Swarovski, Royal and Venetian. The color denseness, clarity and diffusion of light determine the quality or crystals. Traditional crystal chandeliers can be simple or complex, with massive amounts of crystals in a variety of shapes.

Traditional Chandeliers

Arms of a chandelier.

Vintage chandeliers may be small, medium or large with a varying number of tiers that hold the shaded lights. The number of lights ranges from three to as many as 30 for many-tiered, very large chandeliers. They can be ornate, with decorated and scrolling arms, glistening pendants on candle cups and curvaceous or hand-painted columns. Frames may be solid brass, wrought iron, pewter or polymer, material made from chemical compounds. Finishes include hand-polished brass, antique silver, satin nickel and weathered iron.

American Vintage Styles

Many traditional chandeliers are based on early American designs. For example, there are polished-brass chandeliers styled after 17th-century colonial Georgia ones. Another style is a replication of the chandelier that once hung in an elegant, American hotel in the 19th-century gilded age. Still other chandeliers are reproductions of ones from the colonial era, from 1607 to 1754. With balls often found at the bottom of the columns, their arms are usually elegant and their finishes in polished brass.

European Traditional Styles

Many traditionally styled chandeliers replicate vintage European designs. The period pieces replicated include those from the Queen Anne era, Italian porcelain styles or Holland delft, a well-known blue-and-white ceramic. Some of these chandeliers have elaborate scroll work and/or contain shades with etched or rippled glass. There are even replications of a chandelier once lighting a centuries-old railroad station in London. Although traditional chandeliers reproduce former-era styles, they are made with such modern features as energy savers and dimmers.

Tags: 18th century, candle cups, chandeliers appeared, chandeliers elegance, Styles Many, Traditional chandeliers, Traditional chandeliers elegance

Renaissance Style Lighting

Candelabras were popular during the Renaissance.

Lighting during the Renaissance, which lasted from the 13th to 17th centuries, relied on candles. Electricity was not yet discovered, so light sources were primitive. Some fixtures relied on Castor oil, but most simply used candles. The light fixtures were often detailed and ornate, resembling pieces of art more than basic candle holders. The Renaissance was characterized by artistic movements and a focus on beauty, and light fixtures were no exception, particularly for the wealthy.

Candles

Candles were the heart of all light fixtures throughout the Renaissance period. Light fixtures did not yet use electricity, so even the most elaborate chandeliers were lit with candles. Different types of fixtures were created to hold candlesticks. Some were basic while others were decorative.

Materials

Light fixtures during the Renaissance era were shiny and metallic. Most fixtures were made with brass, copper, bronze or silver, which were polished to create a high shine. Cast iron and wrought iron were also used. Some simple fixtures were made of glass, and glass was sometimes used as a decorative cover on oil lamps. Some expensive fixtures were gilded, meaning they featured a fine gold leaf or powder layer over the metal. Gilt-silver and gilt-bronze gave the fixtures attractive, shiny exteriors.

Motifs

Human and animal motifs were frequently seen on Renaissance light fixtures, particularly handheld candle holders that displayed human figures, ranging from a woman holding a tree branch to an armored man. Animal figures, such as a bird or horse, were also popular. Sometimes human and animal figures were combined on the same fixture, such as a man or woman riding on a lion's back.

Candlesticks

Candlesticks were used to carry lights from room to room. They featured a flat wax pan, baluster socket and circular thumb piece. Candlesticks held a single candle. Scrolled handles with conical extinguishers became popular during the latter part of the Renaissance period.

Candelabras

Candelabras were also known as branch candlesticks. They consisted of branches with cylindrical bezels, which fit into the socket of a supporting stick. The branches could be removed, allowing the candlestick to be used alone.

Wall-Mounted Lighting

Some fixtures mounted onto walls and were used to light stairwells and rooms. They consisted of a backplate that attached to the wall and a holder for a candlestick. The holder contained a small plate to catch melted wax drippings. Some models were quite basic and built merely to hold a candle, while others were ornate and not only held the candle, but acted as a piece of d cor.

Standing Lights

Oil lamps were often set on tables. Some were attached to tall poles, creating floor lamps. The oil lamps consisted of a vessel holding oil--such as Castor oil--and a wick. The vessel was either simple, such as a basic bowl shape, or elaborate, such as a painted Aladdin's lamp. They were made from glass, metal, ceramic or stone, with more elaborate vessels being artistically painted.

Chandeliers

Chandeliers ranged from primitive to extravagant. They contained three or more curving arms that held candlesticks. The candlestick holders included small bowls to catch the dripping wax. Basic chandeliers did not consist of decorative accents. Extravagant chandeliers featured decorative beads or teardrop pendants as accessories.

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Cafe Kitchen Decorating Ideas

Cafe kitchens should evoke feelings of relaxation and warmth.

A nice, relaxing cup of coffee in your favorite cafe can be a great way to start your day. If you'd rather not trek to the nearest cafe and spend money on coffee, consider creating a cafe feel right in your own home. Remodeling your kitchen in a cafe style provides a cozy and soothing space for you to prepare your meals and eat. For design inspiration, keep your favorite cafe in mind and try to incorporate that style with your own personal flair.

Color

Cafe interiors are generally done in warmer colors and earth tones. For your kitchen, consider shades of brown to reflect different coffee drink colors. Warm greens and reds also work well for a cafe vibe. Some cafes may even have black walls to allow the decor to stand out more and show off a classic look. Walls are usually solid-colored, though some cafes make use of striped bordering or murals.

Lighting

Having lots of natural light is a great way to bring a cozy cafe feeling to your kitchen. Sheer curtains allow the sun to filter through. If your kitchen lacks the right position for natural light or if it lacks enough windows, consider installing a dimmer system within the kitchen. By having a dimmer system, you can turn up the lights to see better while cooking. In addition, the lights reflecting off the walls will create a warm glow within the room.

Furniture

Classic cafes feature plenty of tables with tablecloths and wooden furniture. A round table works best for a cafe theme, complete with a dark-colored, floor-length tablecloth to complement the wall color. More-contemporary cafes may forego tablecloths in favor of showcasing a solid wooden table or a wood table with a tiled top. Look for wood chairs with cushions to match your color scheme. Some retailers sell kitchen corner booths to make for an even more authentic cafe feeling.

Appliances and Accessories

Having cafe-style appliances is key to a cafe kitchen look. Invest in a coffee maker, espresso machine or a maker that can create different cafe drinks. As with the wall color, stick with simple solid colors, particularly black or white. A houseplant hanging or sitting on a table gives your kitchen more of an outdoor cafe feel. Look for cafe-style dishes and especially coffee mugs, which you can hang up as decorations. You may even set up a sandwich board that lets your family know the daily specials.

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