Hang Ornaments From The Ceiling

Hanging ornaments from the ceiling lets you decorate your home from top to bottom.

When it comes time to deck the halls for the holiday season, your decorations don't have to be limited to your tree and the walls. You can hang your holiday ornaments from the ceiling to draw attention upwards and make the top half of your home just as festive as the rest. Choose from small ornaments that you would hang on your tree or large ornaments that might resemble a light fixture. Add large, glittery or glass ornaments to reflect the light in your home, whether from your regular light fixtures or colored holiday strand lights.

Instructions

1. Tie a length of fishing line to the ornaments to create a floating ornament effect throughout your home. Simply thread the line through the hole in the ornament where you would put a tree hook and then tie it in a knot.

2. Tie decorative ribbon to each of the ornaments if you want the decoration to extend from the ornaments all the way up to the ceiling. The width of the ribbon you can use depends on the size of the ornament and the size of the hole in the top of the ornament.

3. Cut the ribbon or fishing line to the desired length and then tie a small loop in the opposite end. If you want to leave a decorative ribbon spiral, do not tie a loop on the end of the ribbon strands.

4. Place the loop over a clear pushpin and push the pin into the ceiling. Pushpins are best for lightweight ornaments because heavier ornaments may pull the pin out of the ceiling.

5. Push the pin through the ribbon, leaving enough room for a spiral, and then push the pin and ribbon into the ceiling.

6. Curl the tail of the ribbon around a marker or bottle to create a spiral that will hang down from the ceiling. Use a smaller or larger object, depending on the size of the spiral you desire.

7. Screw ceiling screw hooks into the ceiling where you would like to hang the ornaments and hang the ribbon or fishing line loops onto the hooks. Ceiling screw hooks work best for heavier ornaments because the threads provide a firmer grasp in the ceiling, however, they will leave a larger hole in the ceiling than pushpins.

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Cool Ceiling Ideas

A very cool ceiling design

Some of mankind's most famous artworks are on ceilings. Consider Michelangelo's Sistine Chapel ceiling, or Gaulli's "Triumph of the Name of Jesus" on the Ceiling of Rome's Gesu church. But a baroque fresco is not the only way to liven up a ceiling. There are many ways to create interesting ceilings that are eye-catching and modern.

Aurora

The Aurora Borealis and the Aurora Australis, also known as the Northern or Southern Lights, are sheets of light that appear to hang in the sky, brightening the night sky with soft ethereal colors. Recreate the Aurora lights on your ceiling with the innovative ice film used by Creative Nightclubs in their ceiling and wall designs. Wavy sheets of ice film attach to the ceiling in different lengths with various colored LED lights at their base. When turned on, the lights make the ice film shin and shimmer like the lights of the Aurora.

Night Sky

Suspended ceilings are not a new or interesting innovation in themselves, in fact they are often used in office buildings. Spice up a suspended ceiling by making it look like the night sky. Drill randomly placed holes (around 1-inch diameter) into a wooden or metal suspended ceiling, then fill the holes with clear resin. Place a series of small halogen globes on the top side of the suspended ceiling. When the lights are turned on, light comes through the resin holes giving the appearance of a starry night sky. This effect is best viewed when other lights in the room are dimmed or off.

Kids' Rooms

Decorating kids' ceilings can be a lot of fun. A large, smiling sun painting on the ceiling gives a light, happy feeling to a room, as seen on the Ghar Expert webpage of kids ceiling designs. Painted clouds on a ceiling are a soothing design for kids; flowers, favorite animals, the alphabet or angel and fairy paintings are all cool ceiling ideas that kids will love.

Mosaic Medallion

Medallions are a traditional ceiling design feature, as seen on the InvitingHome webpage. Usually a medallion has a ceiling fan or light feature in the center---but you can spice that up by making a mosaic medallion. Buy a prefabricated plain medallion, then mosaic the surface before installing it. Any mosaic design is usable, and can be adjusted to suit the room. For a kitchen or dining room, food or farming themes work well; for a bathroom, underwater scenes are good, or simply spiral designs in cool hues. Celtic knot work designs are suitable for the living areas of formal rooms, but any theme you want can be worked into a mosaic medallion for the ceiling.

Tags: suspended ceiling, ceiling design, cool ceiling, medallion ceiling, mosaic medallion

Do Roughedin Shower Drains Have To Be Below Concrete

The shower drain is at floor level, so the drain pipe must run beneath.

A home's blueprints determine the location of all rooms, including those that require plumbing, such as kitchens and bathrooms. During the construction process, the plumber makes provisions for drainage by installing drainpipes in walls or beneath a basement floor. In the case of basement showers, the contractor runs the drain lines before pouring the basement floor. The contractor leaves an access, however, called a rough-in, so you can install a shower later.

Drainage Systems

All plumbing fixtures in the house run to one main sewer line, which usually is buried beneath the basement floor. In some houses, the main sewer line may not be as deep, but in either case, a basement shower drain will lie beneath the floor. If the sewer main is beneath the basement floor, the shower drainpipe will connect to it directly. If the sewer main is above the basement floor, the shower drainpipe will run to a pit. The pit can remain empty until you decide to install a shower, sink or commode in the basement. At that time, you'll also have to install a sewer lift in the pit to collect the waste, grind it and pump it up to the main sewer line.

Above Grade

The plumber installs shower rough-ins for above-grade bathrooms as well as for future ones in the basement. These rough-ins are not below concrete, but they are below the subfloor. The plumber installs these stubs right after the builder frames the shell of the house. Large shower units are positioned in the bathroom, but the plumber will not hook them up to the roughed-in plumbing stubs until the construction is further along.

Basement Rough-In

The basement shower rough-in features a small square where the contractor did not pour concrete but, instead, covered the plumbing stub with sand. This is necessary because a shower drain must have a P-trap beneath the shower that connects the drain to the drainpipe. When you decide to install a basement shower, you will dig out the sand and connect the shower drain to the stub.

Alternate System

If your home builder did not make provisions for a future basement bathroom and you don't want to break out the concrete, you still can install a shower by using an up-flush system. These systems work on the same principle as sewer lifts, but no buried pit is required. The collection tank fits on the back of a special commode, and you can connect the shower and sink drains to the tank. The caveat is that you must elevate the shower to allow enough room beneath to install a low-profile P-trap before running the drain line on top of the floor to the up-flush tank.

Tags: basement floor, shower drain, basement shower, beneath basement, beneath basement floor, install shower

Paint Tall Ceilings & Stairwells

Extendable roller poles are one way to reach high ceilings.

Tall ceilings and stairwells make painting difficult if you don't have a good level surface for a ladder. You still have several options for applying a new layer of paint; the right one for you depends on your budget and skills. You will need to clean the area before applying paint, or the paint may not stick due to accumulated dust and cobwebs. Use a vacuum with several extension hoses or a duster with an extension pole to prepare your high ceilings for a new coat of paint.

Instructions

Walkboard Method

1. Cover the top of an extension ladder with foam to keep it from marring your walls, and then place the feet on one of your lower stair steps and lean the top of the ladder against the wall so the ladder slants in the opposite direction of your stair rise.

2. Slide a 2-inch-thick by 10- or 12-inch-wide 8-foot-long plank between your ladder's sides so it rests on one rung. Let the other end rest on a stair step so the board is as close to horizontal as possible.

3. Stand on this board to paint the ceiling and upper walls, and then shift it down to the lower rungs as you move down your stairwell walls.

4. Place the board between two A-frame ladders to reach ceiling areas that are not above the stairwell.

Pole Method

5. Paint your high ceilings and stairwell from the floor if scaffolding isn't an option due to space or budget. Start by taping a paintbrush to an extension pole with duct tape.

6. Place your paint bucket in a position where you can reach it with the extension pole, such as at the bottom of the stairwell. Dip your brush into the paint, and then apply it to the ceiling by extending the pole as far as necessary. This method offers less control than up-close painting, but gets the job done.

7. Remove the brush and tape once the edges are painted. Screw a roller frame onto the extension pole's tip using the built-in threads.

8. Place your roller tray full of paint where you previously had the dipping bucket and apply the paint to your ceiling, using the extended roller. Roll slowly to minimize splatter.

9. Reduce the pole's length as you work your way down the stairwell walls.

Tags: extension pole, high ceilings, Place your, stairwell walls, walls then, with extension

Paint Laminated Wood Paneling

Sand laminated paneling before priming and painting.

Painting over laminated wood paneling can spruce up a dark, dull or stained surface. Preparing the paneling for primer is the foundation of the project. Whether the laminate is thick or extremely thin, it must be sanded in order to give the primer coat something to bond to. Run your hands over the surface before you start, and make sure the laminate is firmly adhered to the wall before sanding, priming and painting.

Instructions

1. Remove all switch and outlet plate covers with a screwdriver and set them aside. Lay down a plastic or cloth tarp to cover rugs and floors. Wear a dust mask and safety glasses to protect yourself from laminate particles.

2. Sand the wall from top to bottom with medium grit sandpaper, working in smooth, even strokes, with the grain. You don't have to completely remove the top coat of the laminate. The idea is to score it evenly.

3. Vacuum the wall with a soft brush attachment to remove dust and laminate particles. Wipe the wall with a damp cloth to pick up remaining dust and dirt.

4. Pour primer into a paint tray. Cut in the corners, ceiling and baseboard lines with a trim brush. Cut in the gaps between boards if they are deeper than 1/8-inch. Wash out the brush and set it aside to dry, or put in a resealable plastic bag to keep it for later use.

5. Coat the paint roller with primer. Roll it onto the wall in long, smooth, crossing strokes for uniform coverage. The primer will form a bond with the sanded surface and will make the top coat cling. Allow the primer coat to dry for two to four hours.

6. Paint the primed surface with a latex top coat of your choice, using the same procedures as Step 4 and 5. Allow the topcoat to dry for 24 hours before reinstalling switch and outlet covers.

Tags: laminate particles, primer coat, priming painting, switch outlet, wall with

Cool Bathroom Colors

Grays and whites are calming and cool in a bathroom.

Cool bathroom colors are often used in small bathrooms to make the room feel larger. They also lend a calm, serene feel to the room, which is why many spas use cool colors in their decor themes. Some cool colors can make a room feel dark and depressing, however, if the room does not have exposure to much natural light. For that reason, it's important to select your colors carefully.

Browns

Browns lend an earthy, rustic feel to a bathroom. Try a very light tan on the walls for calming, neutral space, or a deeper brown for a more masculine feel. Accent with rich brown wood in the vanity and mirror or photo frames. Bamboo window blinds also work well with this look, as do a few green plants.

Grays

Grays lend a polished, sophisticated feel to a bathroom. Cool, blue grays mimic the steely color of the ocean or a lake, while grays with a touch of green are traditional spa colors. Pearl grays shimmer and bring light into a small bathroom, while grays with a touch of yellow -- although still a cool color -- can warm up the space.

Whites

Whites are the classic cool color in a bathroom. This color gives a bathroom a crisp, clean feeling. Try bright white on your trims, contrasted with a light gray or tan on the walls. Or, use an off-white to bring out the tones of the wood, marble or granite in your bathroom. Add sheer white curtains and white fluffy towels for a luxury hotel look.

Blues and Greens

Blues and greens are traditional cool colors that work well in a bathroom. Pale aqua works well with white and fills a bathroom with light. Very pale, soft greens bring in the outdoors and create a relaxing air, especially if you pair the color with spalike accessories such as a bowl of decorative river rocks, hand-made soap and grass floor mats. Keep the hues subdued and pale to avoid creating a childlike feel, unless your bathroom is for a child. Or, use bright shades if you are going for a Caribbean or tropical tone.

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Ideas For A Modern Bathroom

Modern bathroom with contemporary tub.

The modern bathroom is a place of tranquility benefiting from the affordable luxury options available in today's market. D cor and styles range from simple to the extravagant, depending upon the choices of the homeowner. The modern bathroom benefits from greater square footage, so there's room to add extra architectural features and luxurious touches. Several design concepts are suitable for the modern bathroom, from a feminine romantic style to a masculine lodge style.

Large Spaces

A room the size of a small bedroom is ideally suited for creating a luxurious, modern bathroom. Architectural elements such as a bay window, pillars or a portion of the floor raised one or two steps up add interest to the blank canvas of the space. Adding windows brings the outdoors into the space. If privacy is an issue, add frosted or stained glass that allows natural lighting to bathe the interior during the day and still provide nighttime privacy without the need for mini-blinds.

Contemporary Zen

The most popular modern bathroom design concept includes clean contemporary lines with a touch of pan-Asian for warmth and character. The result is a stylish and serene atmosphere. Use a soft wall color, such as pale gray or pale green, and bamboo accessories.

Monochrome and Color

Many modern bathrooms utilize a monochromatic color scheme, which involves varying shades and textures of the same color to keep it visually interesting, according to the design team at LifeInItaly. Monochromes can be used alone or with splashes of color. Vibrant lime green adds life to a sedate bathroom, while a jewel-tone red adds a dramatic impact, especially when paired with black. Colors are not limited to what's in vogue, but to the imagination and personality of the bathroom owner.

Two's Company

The professional couple doesn't have to make compromises for use of the bathroom, when they can just as easily spend that additional time together. Modern bathroom design involves separating the toilet and shower area, which makes the room more pleasant for sharing. A pair of matching shower heads are practical and add sex appeal. Dual sinks on one or two vanities with sufficient storage and electrical outlets for each partner are essential elements. Sharing the bathroom creates double the humidity, so proper ventilation is important.

Spa Features

You can turn your bathroom into a luxurious private spa. Include a dry, steam or infrared sauna for healthy detoxification. If space is limited, incorporate the sauna into the shower space. Bathtubs with massaging jets and heaters are available to fit two people or the space of the original tub.

Floating Fixtures

Wall-mounted vanities and toilets give the illusion of a larger space and make the room look more elegant. Visually the wall-mounted units draw the eyes upward, causing the room to appear physically lighter, especially when the d cor includes a lot of dark colors.

Media Sources

If you want to keep up with the news or enjoy a television show or music while soaking in the tub, install media sources in a dry area of your bathroom. Today's flat-panel televisions are ideal for hanging on the wall of a modern bathroom, and are attractive with any d cor. An MP3 player dock with quality speakers enhances a relaxing bath with your personal music choices.

Tags: modern bathroom, bathroom design, especially when, your bathroom

Install Drywall Over A Popcorn Textured Ceiling

Old popcorn textured ceilings (also called acoustic ceilings) make a room look dated. Not only that, if they were applied prior to 1978, they may contain asbestos and be tricky to remove safely. Scraping the old popcorn texture off may not be an option, but installing new drywall right over the old popcorn ceilings is possible with the right tools and a bit of hard work.

Instructions

1. Use a stud finder to find the ceiling joists and make pencil marks on the wall. This will guide you in lining up the sheetrock and attaching it to the ceiling.

2. Buy 3/8" or 1/2" sheetrock, enough for the job. Sheetrock comes in several thicknesses. The thinner pieces are most suitable for going over existing drywall and won't add too much weight to the ceiling.

3. You will need help installing the sheetrock on the ceiling. If you can't find anyone to help you, rent a drywall jack at any rental yard or home store. This is a simple hydraulic lift that maneuvers and holds the sheetrock into place while you install it. When hanging the sheets, stagger the seams and avoid having four corners butting together, as this creates a weak joint that will crack later.

4. Use drywall screws instead of nails, because they will grip better through two sheets of sheetrock and reduce the dreaded "nail pops" that often show up months after finishing a ceiling. A drywall screwgun will create automatic dimples by slightly countersinking each screw.

5. Fill your mud pan with plenty of joint compound (commonly called mud). Using the six inch drywall knife, apply a generous amount of mud along the first seam. Cut a piece of tape and using the same knife, press it smoothly and firmly along the seam. Remove the excess as you go. Do one seam at a time so the mud doesn't start setting up before you can apply the tape. Cutting the tape into the right lengths first can speed up the process.

6. Where the corner meets the wall, fold the tape lengthwise (it has a slight crease so it can be folded evenly). Apply a smooth coat of mud along both edges. Wait at least eight hours for everything to dry. In humid conditions you may have to wait as long as 24 hours for proper drying, since this is a fairly thick coat of mud.

7. Use the ten inch knife for the next application of mud. Before you apply the next coat, use the dry six inch knife to run over the seams, removing any dried lumps or excess. Apply the next coat of mud, keeping it as smooth as possible. Remember that too much mud will need to be sanded down, which is probably the worst part of the whole job. This is a thinner coat of mud and will take between four and eight hours to dry.

8. Apply a final, thin coat of mud in good lighting so you can see the imperfections. Wait until it is dry and sand it smooth where necessary. If you were very careful, the sanding should be minimal. The easiest way to sand ceilings is with a pole sander, which is a pivoting pad on the end of an extension pole. Wear glasses or goggles to protect your eyes.

Tags: coat inch, coat inch knife, eight hours, inch knife, next coat

Contemporary Lighting Techniques

This kitchen presents a classic example of recessed lighting.

A brass chandelier, while classic, sticks out like a sore thumb in a modern room. Employing a contemporary lighting design is necessary for the modern home as it complements the decor scheme. Fresh lighting techniques feature streamlined fixtures and high tech illumination solutions to make the task of brightening a room as enjoyable as it is to decorate.

Recessed Lighting

Recessed lighting is a common device used in modern lighting schemes to give a room a subtle glow in a streamlined fashion. Recessed lighting consists of fixtures implanted in the ceiling and walls, often in hard-to-reach areas. For example, recessed lighting is common in kitchens in the backsplash area or along the wall above the cupboards. Use recessed lighting to illuminate bookcases or artwork. Thus, instead of trying to provide an even glow to all areas of the room, recessed lighting focuses on smaller areas in a sleek manner suitable for the modern home.

Cable Lighting

Cable lighting is the contemporary version of track lighting, which has been available for years. Instead of light fixtures connected to a metal track, the lights hang from two cables, allowing you to pull and position them along the cables according to your needs and desires. The overall look is extremely modern, even futuristic. Most manufacturers of cable light produce light fixtures in a variety of styles so you can mix and match them along the cable or stick to one type if you prefer.

Modern Versions of Classics

Lighting stores abound with modern versions of classic light fixtures. For example, instead of a classic crystal chandelier, purchase one that has sleek glass beads that hang and encircle a central light point. Instead of traditional brass sconces with classic engravings, select a chrome and glass sconce to act as a lighting accent for your wall. You can find modern alternatives to the most traditional styles of light fixtures to harmonize with your decor.

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Contemporary Kitchen Design Ideas

Contemporary kitchens blend beauty and functionality

Sleek appliances, easy care cabinetry, clean uncluttered lines, seamless finishes and plentiful, artful lighting help create an inviting kitchen that is functional, inviting and reflects the homeowner’s personality and contemporary taste. When you remodel a kitchen, underneath the gleaming stainless steel, the track lighting and reflective glass tile, it is the kitchen work triangle that provides the basis of a functional contemporary kitchen design.

Design Fundamentals

The kitchen is characterized by three work areas. The sink, garbage disposer, trash compacter and dishwasher make up the cleaning and pre-cooking area. The cook top and oven or range plus microwave or convection oven is the cooking area. The refrigerator is the cold storage area. This zone gets the most foot traffic in the kitchen. An efficient design keeps the distance between major appliances between three feet and seven feet. The entire triangle, when all three sides are added together, should equal 12 feet or more.

U Design

For efficient kitchen floor plans, nothing beats the U design. Because it ends in a semi circle, it prohibits the kitchen from becoming a thoroughfare and keeps foot traffic from cutting across the work triangle. Three walls become available for counters and storage space. With a U shaped kitchen of at least eight square feet, you can have adequate working room in the kitchen center. If the kitchen becomes too large, the perimeter of the work triangle could exceed the minimum 12 feet by several feet. If the triangle grows to encompass 22 feet or more, you could be walking many extra steps. With a large U shaped kitchen, consider moving elements closer to each other. The addition of an island can also shorten your walking distances.

L Design

In an L shaped kitchen design, two walls intersect to form an angle. A triangle forms naturally. Work can flow between refrigerator, sink and cooking area well as long as activity is centered near the corner. For a remodel project, it is important to know that the L kitchen does not require as much space as the U shaped kitchen and can rival the U for efficiency. The L is also an easy layout to remodel when you must remodel without expanding your square footage. Provided there is enough space, adding an island can enhance an L shaped kitchen. The island can also help define traffic routes and act as a divider.

Galley Design

Ideally, people can avoid colliding with one another as they work together in the triangle. If the kitchen is shaped as a narrow rectangle, called a galley or corridor kitchen, a compromise is to place refrigerator on the same wall as the sink and the range on the opposing wall. If at all possible for efficiency, the aisle between counter tops on the sides of the kitchen would be between four and six feet.

Island or Peninsula Addition

If the interior kitchen space or aisle is at least 10 feet square, placing either the sink and dishwasher combination or a cook top on an island can increase efficiency. Extending the counter top as a dining surface increases workability. If space is more limited, it may be possible to add wheeled cart or a peninsula instead of an island.

A peninsula is especially well suited to an L-shape kitchen with limited wall space but plenty of floor space. A peninsula can house an appliance to reduce the size of the work triangle. It can change the flow of foot traffic and be scaled to fit a variety of floor plans.

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Ideas For A Blue On Blue Bathroom With Mosaic Tile Accents

Applying grout to bathroom mosaic tiles.

In our hectic modern world, blue is a serene and soothing color that makes an ideal choice for bathrooms. Make use of helpful online color tools such as those listed by Design Shack to choose your blue combinations for the most professional results. Pair your new blue paint with durable glass or ceramic tiles to create a bathroom that will hold up to the physical stresses of everyday use as well.

Accented Blue

Royal blue and turquoise make a good combination with contrasting, sunny yellow for accent. Paint royal blue on walls from about 3 feet from the floor on down, and paint turquoise on the top portion of the walls. Create a contrasting strip between the two colors by attaching a band of yellow border tiles where the two blues intersect. Accent similarly around mirrors, windows and doors with narrower yellow borders. Use paint-matched royal blue ceramic tiles on the floor, and make a faux "rug" with a band of yellow mosaic tiles about 6 inches from the walls all around. Pure white fixtures will contrast nicely.

Feel the Sea

Paint palest blue on the ceiling and gray-blue on walls for the look of endless sky and sea. Add white trim and all white fixtures to heighten the sense of freshness and clean salt air. Make a mosaic on the shower walls to finish. Use sand colored tiles to create a "beach," and use shades of blue, green and white to create rivulets of "seawater," or purchase handmade fish and coral reef tiles for an undersea mosaic. Search "handmade tiles and mosaics" for inspiration, or find artists who can make this for you.

Retro Checkerboard

For a feel of the 1940s, paint walls a pale aqua color and paint trim two or three shades deeper than the wall color. For an outstanding retro border, pair small black and white mosaic tiles in a 12-inch checkerboard band starting about three 3-feet high around the room. Tile the floor with a similar checkerboard pattern of larger ceramic tiles in black and white. Use all white vintage fixtures for authenticity, or go for newer black fixtures for ultimate contrast.

Midnight Blue

If you prefer a dark bathroom with a contemporary feel, this may be the one for you. Paint the ceiling and upper third of the walls deep midnight blue, blending it into the middle third with a lighter royal blue and finishing with a medium deep blue on the bottom third. You will want a paint sprayer to blend the colors seamlessly. Where the walls touch the floor and ceiling, create 4-inch trim bands of cobalt blue glass mosaic tiles flecked with gold. Use cobalt blue fixtures and gold plated hardware for this luxurious look.

Tags: mosaic tiles, ceramic tiles, band yellow, black white, cobalt blue

Design A Living Room On A Tight Budget

Designing a living room on a budget can seem like a daunting task, but by visiting the many flea markets, auctions, thrift stores and tag sales in your area, you will find many of your key furnishings at a budget-friendly price. Use various crafting skills to create the beautiful living room of your dreams on a budget. You will be surprised at how easy it is to accomplish and you will be proud to show the results to family and friends.

Instructions

1. Take everything out of the living room and paint the walls. Paint is inexpensive and if you are willing to be flexible, most stores have remnant paint. These are usually paints that a customer ordered to have mixed and then didn't like the color. You might find just the right shade for your room at a fraction of the cost, keeping you well within a budget.

2. Take measurements of your living room. Measure doors, windows, spaces between doors and windows and ceiling height. If you will be using any of your existing furniture, measure these pieces also. Gather color samples for your design. These do not necessarily have to be fabric. Free color sample cards from the paint store or small items around your home that have a desired shade you are trying to incorporate in the room will work.

3. Make a list at the flea market, thrift stores, tag sales and auctions in your area. Shop with a wish list of items that you are looking for, but be flexible, fabric and paint are an inexpensive way to fix up a less-than-perfect find. Take a measuring tape to measure the items and compare to your measurements that you took from home. This will ensure you don't end up with something that isn't going to fit your space.

4. Make slip covers from large pieces of fabric. Either drape your chairs or sofa with these materials or sew a slip cover with these materials. Sew easy pillow covers using scraps of fabric to match your décor. Curtain panels that have the basics of color and texture can easily be altered. Visit a local carpet store and ask about carpet remnants. For a fraction of the cost of a new area rug, you can have the edges of a carpet remnant bound.

5. Repaint or refinish end tables and a coffee table to match the décor. Add wood or metal appliqués, medallions or upholstery tacks to give your pieces that extra bit of personality.

6. Create artwork for your living room on a budget using the old frames from outdated pictures and paintings. These frames are not difficult to find if you can look past the art and see the frames. Paint or refinish the frames and place fabric or wallpaper samples inside for wonderful art. Small collectibles can also be framed and it will get them out of your drawers and closets.

Tags: living room, doors windows, fraction cost, living room budget, room budget

What Thickness Of Gypsum For Ceiling & Walls

Gypsum panels offer smooth walls and ceilings.

After World War II, the traditional way of constructing interior walls by smoothing plaster over wood laths gave way to the installation of compressed gypsum panels. Gypsum wallboard, also called drywall, is much quicker to install than plaster and the finished effect is a smoother wall. Local building code will require a minimum thickness, or type, of gypsum wallboard in some situations. When it's not regulated, industry standards will help you determine the best panel thickness for your project.

Hanging Ceiling Gypsum

Hanging 1/2-inch gypsum wallboard is standard for finishing a ceiling with joists on 16-inch centers. This means that from the center of one joist to the center of the next, it is exactly 16 inches. Thinner wallboard, such as 1/4-inch or 3/8-inch, usually isn't sturdy enough for a wave-free ceiling. If you're hanging the wallboard on a ceiling with wider, 24-inch centers, upgrade to 5/8-inch gypsum.

Installing Wall Gypsum

The thickness of the wall between one room and the next depends on the thickness of the wallboard. A standard interior wall, framed with 2-by-4 studs and covered on each side with 1/2-inch-thick wallboard, is a total of 4 1/2 inches thick. When you're determining how thick you want the finished wall, keep in mind that dimensional lumber is 1/2 inch less than the dimension given. So, a 2-by-4 is really 1 1/2 inches by 3 1/2 inches. The same rule for wallboard thickness on a ceiling also holds true on walls. Minimum thickness of 1/2 inch is suitable for wall studs on 16-inch centers, but use 5/8-inch wallboard for 24-inch centers.

Thin Gypsum Wallboard

You may use thinner gypsum on walls and ceilings, but these panels serve different purposes. Both 1/4-inch and 3/8-inch wallboards are instrumental in covering curved walls, because they're thin enough to bend slightly, allowing the carpenter to coax the panels around a spiral staircase or onto a barrel ceiling. For rounded gypsum applications, two layers of thin drywall, installed one at a time, are standard. Thin wallboard is also beneficial as an overlay on an existing wall or ceiling. In cases where a wall has many dings or stains, or the homeowner tried unsuccessfully to strip off old wallpaper, a layer of thin gypsum creates a new-looking wall.

Special Considerations

Builders install thicker wallboard on walls and ceilings that separate individual residences or commercial stores. Called "party walls" because separate parties occupy the opposing spaces, gypsum wallboard must conform to local or state fire codes to reduce the risk of fire spreading from one space to the next. Party wall codes vary, but you might have to install two, 1/2-inch-thick layers of gypsum wallboard with staggered joints. Alternately, you might have to install special fire-rated wallboard.

Tags: gypsum wallboard, walls ceilings, 16-inch centers, 24-inch centers, 4-inch 8-inch, ceiling with, have install

Drop Ceiling Lighting Options

Fluorescent panels are easy to install in a drop ceiling.

Drop ceilings, also commonly known as suspended ceilings, are lightweight panels suspended from the ceiling beams by thin metal cables. Accessing electrical wiring, plumbing pipes or duct work hidden by a drop ceiling is as easy as lifting one of the panels. Because this is a suspended ceiling, the choices of lighting fixtures for a drop ceiling are somewhat limited.

Recessed Lighting Fixtures

Recessed lighting, also sometimes called "can" lighting, features a light bulb inside a reflective metal container. Incandescent recessed lighting puts off too much heat to be safely mounted in most drop ceilings, but halogen and compact fluorescent bulbs will be safe, says Armstrong's lighting website. The metal canister for the light must be supported by a wooden frame placed above the metal grid that holds the ceiling tiles. Recessed lights have lenses, or openings, at the end of the canister, which must be installed level with the ceiling tile surface. Canister lights are a good alternative to fluorescent light panels, but they require more work to install, and more lights will be needed to brighten a room.

Fluorescent Lights

Light-weight fluorescent light fixtures have become the most common and popular choice for use in drop ceilings, because they can be mounted onto the same metal supports that hold the ceiling panels. The large, rectangular 2-by-2-foot or 2-by-4-foot fluorescent fixtures fit perfectly into drop ceiling supports, according to Al's Home Improvement Center. The ceiling panels come in a wide variety of sizes, making it easy to find a light fixture that will fit seamlessly into your drop ceiling supports without any modifications.

Surface Mounted Fixtures

It is possible to mount practically any regular surface-mounted light fixture behind a drop ceiling. Surface-mounted fixtures are installed onto the surface of the ceiling, and no parts are recessed into the ceiling as with recessed or fluorescent fixtures. Pendant lamps, track lighting and basic glass fixtures are all examples of this type of lighting. The fixture must have its own support system that uses cables or metal bars and chains, attached directly to a ceiling joist, according to Renovation Headquarters. The ceiling joist has the strength to support a regular light fixture. The framework of a drop ceiling is not intended to bear weight. Trying to attach a fixture to a ceiling panel in a drop ceiling would bend or break the panel, and could easily cause the whole ceiling to detach from its supports. With the right support system, even heavy fixtures such as lighted ceiling fans, chandeliers and track lighting can be added to a room with a drop ceiling.

Tags: drop ceiling, drop ceiling, light fixture, ceiling Drop, ceiling joist, ceiling panels, ceiling supports

Tips For Painting Upper Walls Near Popcorn Ceilings

Painting upper walls near popcorn ceiling poses specific challenges.

Painting a room can enhance the look and feel of a space, but it requires some careful preparation to achieve the best results. While it is tempting to open up a paint can and get started, it is best to first prepare the areas surrounding the walls you want to paint. This is because some areas are especially difficult to paint. These include walls near the ceiling, especially if the ceiling is what is referred to as a "popcorn" ceiling that features textured plaster.

Preparation

Spills and splatters can damage exposed furniture, and with popcorn ceilings the added nuisance of falling pieces of plaster also is a concern. To prevent this, clear the room of any furniture if possible. Lay dropcloths on the flooring and over any furniture that remains in the work space. Remove any lighting fixtures or electrical covers you want to keep paint-free.

Taping

Tape is your best defense for your ceiling. Tape the ceilings surrounding the wall trim. Tear off a strip of painter's tape and place in the angle where the wall and ceilings meet. Press the tape as flat as possible onto the ceiling to create a clean line for the trim. Because the popcorn ceiling is textured, the tape may wall or bunch. You may need to continue pressing the tape flat even as you paint.

Tools

Several tools can make this job simpler. Aside from painter's tape, use a flat edge while painting to protect the ceiling. As a backup to ordinary painter's tape, the flat, wide edge of a chisel can help protect the ceiling from paint. Press the edge into the angle of the wall and ceiling as you move along this upper wall area.

Another important tool is a sturdy ladder when painting hard-to-reach areas. While a roller with a long extension handle is a helpful tool, being as close as possible to the upper trim area will help you best control the look of the trim and ceiling. The closer and more controlled you can get while painting, the less opportunity for popcorn plaster to come loose.

Tags: tape flat, painter tape, popcorn ceiling, painter tape flat, protect ceiling, walls near

Condo Bathroom Renovation Ideas

Using a mirror helps open up your bathroom.

Condo bathrooms are notoriously small, due in part to the lack of space available in the home. Whether you buy it brand new or take over an older model, you may still want to renovate the space. Designers typically make the bathrooms plain because they repeat the same design on dozens of other homes in the same area. Even if you have a large bathroom in your condo, you can use some of the renovation ideas. Not only does it make your bathroom look bigger, but it also makes it different from the bathrooms found at your neighbors.

Create space

Create more space in your bathroom by opening up the space. Swap out the traditional bathtub with a shower that has a glass enclosure. When you look into the room, you see straight through instead of having the space blocked out. Use lighter colored tiles on the flooring and areas inside the tub or shower and paint the walls a coordinating shade. Paint the trim white or a light shade of yellow, to further open up the room. Installing a large mirror against one wall or above the sink, also helps open up the room. Depending on the rules in place regarding changes to the condo, you can even add a skylight above the bathroom. This adds more light to the room, without taking up additional space.

Add new details

Use small details around the bathroom that you wouldn’t find on similar condos in your area. One renovation idea involves painting a trim or border onto the walls. Use colors that match others found in your bathroom or hang wallpaper border around the room. If you have tile on the floors or walls, create a pattern or a design, using prepainted tiles. Simply replace a line of tiles around the room to create variety. Even replacing the existing faucets and hardware in the room will create a new and different look to your bathroom.

Use cabinets

Look for items that have two purposes, to cut back the amount of space used. Kitchen Bath Ideas suggests using an armoire or cabinet in the bathroom and place the sink on top and inside. The drawers and cabinets provide storage space you wouldn’t get with a smaller sink or a pedestal sink. Depending on your budget, you may consider investing in custom cabinets. Have the cabinets built beside the toilet and across one wall. This creates a shelf for additional storage above the toilet, as well as storage below the sink.

Tags: your bathroom, around room, found your, helps open, open room

Install Corrugated Metal Roofing On Ceilings

Corrugated metal ceilings are popping up across the country thanks to the growing popularity of green building and the interest in Latin American and Southwestern European cultures. In the U.S., they are installed for aesthetics, to achieve an Old World look from places that have used and still use corrugated metal roofs, to protect dwelling inhabitants from the elements, and on green building projects. It is an inexpensive, easy and effective style of roofing in many growing nations as well a developed nations. Installing corrugated metal roofing panels on the ceiling is a reminder of where we've been historically and where we are headed in the future.

Instructions

1. Determine beam material.

Determine the material your ceiling beams are made of so you know what type of screws to use. If the beams are made of wood, you should use wood screws. For metal, you should use self-tapping screws. For concrete, tap con screws are best, but both the panels and beams will have to be pre-drilled for these. Be sure to use neoprene washers for each screw. Hex-head fasteners are recommended for use with all of these materials.

2. Measure the ceiling.

Measure the ceiling to determine the square footage. Square footage is determined by multiplying the length and width of an area. For example, if the ceiling is 10 feet by 12 feet, the square footage is 120 square feet. Once you have this calculation, you can determine how many panels and hardware you need. Depending on your design, add inches or feet to your calculations for any panels that will overlap. Take your calculations with you to your supplier, as they are usually happy to help with "do it yourself" projects.

3. Note ceiling fixtures.

Place the panels on the ceiling in the exact place where you'd like them affixed. Plan the installation to begin at the farthest point from the most visible area of the room, for example, a far corner away from doorways. Take note of the fixtures on the ceiling and trace lines where holes will have to be cut from your corrugated metal to accommodate these fixtures. Be precise so you don't make mistakes that could cost you a panel. The holes should be cut while you and the panels are safely on the ground.

4. Cut out the tracings you have made on the panels for your ceiling fixtures by punching holes well inside the trace lines using a drill. Use these holes to make your initial cuts into the metal using the metal sheers. Continue to make small and careful cuts, working your way out to the trace lines. Work slowly as these cuts should be precise.

5. Time to drill.

Drill the screws into the corrugated metal panels onto the beams every 12 inches. The screws should be fastened at least 1 inch deep into the beams. Ideally, the wood beams will be located every 2 feet, or 6 feet apart for steel beams. Continue this process until all the panels are safely affixed to the ceiling.

6. Seal the seams.

Use 1/2-inch metal-to-metal screws to seal the seams of the overlapping panels. Their distance depends on your design and preference, as keeping wind and rain out is not a concern in this case. If you'd like the ceiling to look rustic, leave large gaps between the screws. If your goal is a clean-cut look, seal the seams closer together, using the same measurements between screws.

Tags: corrugated metal, trace lines, beams made, beams will, between screws, ceiling fixtures, feet feet

Replace A Bathroom Pendant

A pendant light will add a decorative touch to your bathroom.

Pendant lights hang from their electrical cords and add a decorative touch as well as provide adequate lighting. Pendant lights work well as supplemental lighting in a bathroom. Over time, light fixtures start to look out of date. For example, gold plating popular in the 1970s has lost its appeal for some homeowners. You can quickly replace an old pendant light in your bathroom with a new pendant light.

Instructions

1. Turn off the breaker that controls the bathroom. Double-check to ensure the light has no power by turning the electrical switch for the pendant light on and then back off. If the light comes on, you did not turn off the correct breaker.

2. Unscrew the fastener that holds the canopy against the ceiling, lower the canopy down the wire and rest it against the pendant light. In many cases, the fastener is a thumbscrew and requires no tools for removal.

3. Pull the wires down out of the electrical box mounted in the ceiling and remove the wire nuts from the groups of wires. There will be one group of green or copper wires for the ground, one group of black wires and one group of white wires. Pull the wires apart.

4. Pull the cord out of the threaded bracket and place the pendant light off to the side.

5. Remove the screws that hold the pendant light mounting bracket to the electrical box with a screwdriver. Place the new mounting bracket against the electrical box and mount it with the supplied screws and a screwdriver.

6. Slide the canopy supplied with the new pendant light onto the cord of the new pendant light.

7. Push the cord up through the threaded portion of the mounting bracket. The more you pull through the bracket, the closer to the ceiling the pendant light will remain. When you are happy with the distance, cut off the excess cord with wire cutters.

8. Strip approximately an inch of the coating off each of the wires inside the electrical cord. Use wire strippers for this.

9. Attach the green or copper wires together with a wire nut. Attach the black wires together with a wire nut and attach the white wires together with a wire nut. Tuck the wires into the electrical box.

10. Slide the canopy against the ceiling and secure it with the supplied fastener.

11. Thread an incandescent light bulb into the fixture on the pendant light and restore power to the light via the breaker panel.

Tags: pendant light, with wire, mounting bracket, together with, together with wire, wires together

Wire A Ceiling Fan & Light To Separate Wall Switches

Ceiling fan and light units can operate with two switches.

Using separate switches to operate a ceiling fan and light combination unit allows a user to operate one, or both, features without pulling on the ceiling fan's pull-chain switches. The wires delivering the ceiling fan and light's power supply, coming from a circuit breaker, enter the switches' electrical box, where a jumper wire supplies power to both switches. When one of the switches turns on, the electricity continues to the part of the ceiling fan it operates. When both switches turn on, both the ceiling fan and light turn on.

Instructions

1. Turn off the ceiling fan and light's circuit breaker. The correct circuit breaker often uses the room's name on its tag.

2. Remove 1/2 inch of each wire's insulation in the switch's and in the ceiling fan's electrical boxes with wire strippers. Two wire sets enter the switch's electrical box: a wire set with two insulated wires (from the circuit breaker), and a wire set with three insulated wires that travels to the ceiling fan's electrical box. Both wire sets also contain a bare copper wire.

3. Connect the wires in the ceiling fan and light's electrical box. Wrap the uninsulated wire from the wire set around the green screw on the ceiling fan's mounting bracket and tighten the screw with the correct screwdriver. Twist the ceiling fan and light's white wire to the wire set's white wire and lock them together with a wire nut. Twist the ceiling fan and light's wire with the "Light" label, usually colored blue, to the wire set's red wire and lock them together with a wire nut. Twist the ceiling fan and light's wire with the "Fan" label, usually colored black, to the wire set's black wire and lock them together with a wire nut.

4. Twist the white wires in the switches' electrical box together. Lock them together with a wire nut.

5. Cut two 6-inch-long jumper wires from 14-gauge insulated wire with wire cutters. Use wire strippers to remove 1/2 inch of the insulation from each end of the jumper wires.

6. Wrap the bare copper wire from the ceiling fan and light's wire set and one of the jumper wires around the green ground screw on one switch. Tighten the ground screw with a screwdriver. Consider this switch No. 1.

7. Wrap the other end of the switch's jumper wire and the bare copper wire in the wire set that connects to the circuit breaker around the second switch's green ground screw. Tighten the screw with a screwdriver. Consider this switch No. 2.

8. Wrap the black wire from the circuit breaker and the second jumper wire around switch No. 2's gold-colored screw. Tighten the screw with a flat-head screwdriver.

9. Wrap the other end of the jumper wire around switch No. 1's gold-colored screw. Tighten the screw with a flat-head screwdriver.

10. Wrap the black wire from the ceiling fan and light's wire set around switch No. 1's silver-colored screw. Tighten the screw with a flat-head screwdriver.

11. Wrap the red wire from the ceiling fan and light's wire set around switch No. 2's silver-colored screw. Tighten the screw with the flat-head screwdriver.

Tags: ceiling light, screw with, circuit breaker, with wire, ceiling light wire

Drop Ceiling Parts

Drop Ceiling Parts

Drop ceilings provide a finished look to a room while allowing easy access to electrical wiring, plumbing pipes, ductwork and other utilities. For a drop ceiling, the ceiling grid is suspended by wires, which support the grid and ceiling tiles. There are many tile and track designs to enhance the look of your drop ceiling.

Wall Moldings

Wall moldings are metal angles that attach to the walls with screws, nails or staples and are leveled around the room. The main beams and the cross tees rest on this molding. A laser level works best to lay out the wall molding, but a 4- or 6-foot level and a chalk line can also be used.

Main Beams

Main beams are also known as main runners or main tees. These interlocking beams hang from wires and are usually 12 feet long and set on 4-foot centers. They provide support for the cross tees. The slots of the main beams align to form squares or rectangles when the cross tees are inserted.

Cross Tees

Cross tees insert into slots on the main beams and interlock with each other, forming either a 2-by-2 or 2-by-4 foot frame for the ceiling tiles.

Hanger Wires

Hanger wires support the main beams and are typically made of 16-gauge wire.

Ceiling Tiles

Ceiling tiles come in either 2-by-2 or 2-by-4 foot panels and form the finished ceiling. The tiles can be cut to length and width using only a utility knife.

Tags: cross tees, 2-by-2 2-by-4, 2-by-2 2-by-4 foot, 2-by-4 foot, Ceiling Parts

Clever Ideas For Chandeliers

Use chandeliers creatively to brighten up your home decor.

Today's chandeliers are more versatile than their ornate, bejeweled ancestors. If you are attracted to suspended lighting but want to avoid a "palace of Versailles" atmosphere, consider clever ideas for incorporating chandeliers into your space. Find the best chandelier for your purposes by perusing the options and considering the overall look you want to create.

Unusual Placement

Incorporate chandeliers into your decor in a surprising, clever way by placing them in unexpected locations. Install a dimmer on a bathroom chandelier to enjoy decadent primping and soaks. Let one dangle at your bedside in lieu of a table lamp. Use a long chain to hang the lamp low so that the lighting effect is intimate rather than floods the room, but is adequate for reading. A chandelier in the walk-in closet is the ideal touch for a clotheshorse. A princess-obsessed child will be astonished when you install a decadent chandelier in her bedroom.

Playful Colors

Stray from old-fashioned crystals and select chandeliers containing modern, bright or unusual coloring. Spray-paint a chandelier an unexpected shade of neon yellow, pink or orange to stand out in a contemporary living room. Add silver leaf for extra sparkle on a white chandelier; choose a chandelier made from bright, cheerful turquoise beads to instantly make a black and white room feel warm and cutting edge.

Artisan Craftsmanship

Invest in a handcrafted chandelier to create a focal point in any room. Artisans specializing in chandelier work make outstanding specimens from all kinds of materials, including abalone shells, wrought iron, ceramic, brass, silver leaf and cast resin. Browse small boutiques and attend juried craft fairs to find examples you like; speak directly with the artist if you want to learn more about her process; see additional examples of her work or request a commission.

Recycled Object DIY

Make your own chandelier from recycled household items for an inexpensive, playful option. You can build shades from any light-reflecting or light-transmitting material that heat does not damage, such as used light bulbs, rope lights, chicken wire, wood and glass beads. Make certain to attach your DIY chandelier securely to the ceiling with the appropriate fixture for your ceiling type.

Tags: chandeliers into, chandeliers into your, into your, silver leaf, your chandelier

Remodel A Modern Bathroom

Make your new bathroom luxurious, as well as modern.

Converting your dingy old bathroom into something new and modern can increase the value of your home, as well as the quality of your daily life. Bathroom remodels require a considerable investment and careful planning. When you're modernizing your bathroom, choose finishes and fixtures that are clean and elegant. Your flooring selection, vanity and backsplash materials should work together to create an overall sense of luxury and sophistication.

Instructions

1. Remove your tub, toilet, vanity and flooring. Strip down to the drywall and subfloor.

2. Install modern fixtures with features you didn't have in your old bathroom. Consider a two-person shower or a soaking tub. Classic white porcelain finishes look clean and modern. Select hardware with a brushed nickel or chrome finish.

3. Select a contemporary vanity with a granite or marble top. If your budget doesn't have room for marble, consider tile squares. Use tile squares for your backsplash, or go ultracontemporary with recycled glass tiles. Also consider glass tiles for your shower.

4. Paint the walls a cool, neutral shade that complements your tile and countetop. Consider using paint specially formulated for bathrooms to minimize any moisture problems.

5. Hang light fixtures that evenly illuminate the surfaces of your modern bath. Choose fixtures with finishes that match your hardware for a consistent look. Light the vanity area with wall sconces or a bar light. Add contemporary recessed lighting above the shower.

Tags: your bathroom, fixtures that, fixtures with, glass tiles, tile squares

Tips For Sanding Wood Molding

An abrasive sponge is an effective way to sand molding.

Wood molding has many different profiles that range from intricate curves, delicate patterns, to deep shadow lines. Moldings are mass produced and need sanding to remove lines created by machines that make the molding. In addition, molding that has been sitting around unused for more than a few weeks can develop a rough or tinted surface. As a result, it's a good idea to sand molding before installing it.

Abrasive Sponges

One way to sand molding with its complicated profiles is to use a sanding sponge. Palm the sponge lengthwise and force the sponge into the contours of the molding. Sand with the grain and allow the sponge to soften up as it gets slightly warmer. Try to force the sponge to conform to the contour of the molding. Use your fingers as guides and try to feel the profile of the molding with your fingers through the sponge. As the grit begins to wear down, turn the sponge over and use the other side. Abrasive sponges will last several hours, but when the sponge begins to slide too easily, it's time to get a new one. Wear a rubber glove to prevent your hand from getting sore or becoming rough from the sponge. Check the molding's surface. If it's not sufficiently sanded, spin the molding around and use the sponge to sand in the opposite direction.

Dowels

One custom trick of sanding molding is to use a dowel. Choose a dowel depending on the size of the profile curve. Buy some circular sanding pads that are normally used for orbital sanders. These pads have a peel-off backing that reveals a sticky surface. Lay the dowel in the center of the pad and wrap the dowel with it, letting the sticky edges join together over top of the dowel. These edges should form a small handle-like protrusion that you can hang onto. Grabbing the protrusion, use the sandpaper-coated dowel to sand inside the curves of the molding.

Sandpaper

Fold the sandpaper into thirds. Cup the sandpaper in your hand and sand in long strokes, slightly overlapping each stroke as you work your way across the length of the molding. When you reach the end of the molding dust it off, hold it up at eye level and look down the molding, letting light reflect off the surface. This highlights marks you can't easily see. If you find any marks, mark them with a pencil so you can spot it. Turn the sandpaper over frequently. Don't spare the sandpaper, since your time is more valuable. In most cases, 100-grit sandpaper is good enough, but for a glass-like finish to the molding, sand it again with 180-grit sandpaper.

Tags: sand molding, force sponge, molding with, your fingers, your hand

Install Corrugated Roof Panels Under A Deck

Corrugated metal panels are ideal for rainproofing outdoor sitting areas.

Wooden decks are generally constructed of boards with narrow gaps between them, designed to allow rainwater to leak through. This method prevents standing water from rotting the wood, but it also means that a second-story deck makes for poor shelter during a rainstorm. If you want to be able to use the space under your deck during rainy weather, installing corrugated roofing panels to the deck's underside can solve the problem.

Instructions

1. Determine the desired slope of the panels under your deck. For a house roof the recommended minimum slope is 2.5 vertical inches for every horizontal foot, but a nearly-flat roof is fine for under-deck installations.

2. Install a wood support structure for your panels, screwing a row of 2-by-4s running parallel to your wall every 2 feet along the underside of your deck. Trim the 2-by-4s to make them thinner or screw an additional row to the underside of the first, making it thicker, as necessary to get the slope you want from row to row.

3. Have an assistant hold the first corrugated panel in place against the rows of 2-by-4s on the upwind, house side of the deck. Use washered wood screws to secure the panel, driving a screw every foot along each row.

4. Position the next panel further from the house but overlapping the first by at least 6 inches. Secure it in the same manner as the first. Install subsequent rows of panels, working your way to the downwind side of the deck's lower surface, until finished.

Tags: your deck, side deck, under your, under your deck

Home Depot Bathroom Floor Ideas

Decorative tile is one option for bathroom floors.

Nothing looks worse in a bathroom than worn-out flooring---no matter how hard it's scrubbed or mopped, it still looks dirty. Replacing the flooring is easier and less expensive than replacing fixtures, countertops or wall tile. A home improvement store like Home Depot has a wide range of tile and carpeting, including natural stone and marble.

Ceramic and Porcelain Tile

These man-made fired tiles are made of a durable material that will last for years. The downside is that the tiles will crack if something heavy is dropped on them. Tile comes in sizes ranging from 2-inch squares to 18-inch squares. Smaller tiles require more care when laying because of the additional grout lines (the grout also gets dirty so a smaller-tiled floor requires more cleaning). The edges of ceramic and porcelain tiles are beveled so they are easier to lay than natural stone. When choosing tile for a bathroom floor, make sure it's not slippery when wet.

Vinyl Tile

Many vinyl products fool the eye: wood, ceramic tile and marble designs almost look real. The choice of colors and designs are endless. Sheet vinyl is installed in long sheets on a prepared surface and best done by professionals, but squares of tile with adhesive backing can be installed by the homeowner. The surface must be completely clean and all traces of glue and foreign material must be removed. If there are cracks in the cement they will show through the vinyl squares unless filled in. Cleaning the tile is done with soap and water or commercial products. Vinyl can tear, so care must be taken when moving heavy objects.

Natural Stone

Slate, marble and granite are all natural stones used for flooring as well as for countertops. Stone comes in several sizes and finishes from dull to shiny. Since it's a natural substance, colors are natural and won't exactly match from tile to tile. When you order the stone from Home Depot, order all you'll need at one time. Stone has straight edges rather than beveled edges, requiring that the installation to be nearly perfectly level, or the edges will be felt when walked upon. Installation on a second-floor bedroom requires cement board for stability. Cleaning the stone is done with soap and water or natural stone cleaner. Harsh chemicals will affect the finish; natural stone stains because its porous surface.

Carpet

Carpeting in bathrooms is soft underfoot, warm and easy to vacuum. The range of colors, textures and pricing is quite extensive. Carpeting may be laid over other surfaces as long as sufficient padding is used. Deteriorating surfaces are best removed. Carpet does come in squares with adhesives backs that can be installed by the homeowner. However, most wall-to-wall carpeting requires professional installation. Home Depot and other home improvement stores can install the carpet for you. The disadvantages of carpeting in a bathroom is that the moisture may seep into the padding and mold. It's also difficult to get the carpet completely clean in the toilet area.

Tags: Home Depot, natural stone, completely clean, done with, done with soap

Decorate A Living Room With Lamps

Decorate with Lamp Design

The key to a functional and comfortable living room rests in the choice of illumination in the room. If you have some hard-wired lighting but feel like table lamps and floor lamps would add a bit of subtle ambiance to the room, then check out some practical ideas. Table lamps and floor lamps offer something that existing light sources don't have, versatility. You can place a floor lamp or a table lamp in a living room and dramatically improve the mood and tone of the room. Practice these simple suggestions for a living room that has harmonizing illumination.

Instructions

1. Divulge in Lamp Variations

In the 1980s and 1990s, it was common to see lamps that were designed to be purchased as a three part set. Each of the light fixtures was made out of exactly the same materials, and was designed in the exact same way. The only difference was the height of the lamp itself. This overly coordinating lamp trend has come and gone, and a newer more varied and flexible decorative motif has emerged. You can divulge in lamp variations and still keep harmony and unity in your living room. For example, a brushed nickel floor lamp will complement a solid black table lamp if you choose contemporary lampshades for each. The lamp variations will add a sense of dynamic appeal to your living space.

2. Dare to Stack for More Dimension

Table lamps don't have to rest directly on a table to serve the purpose they were designed for. You can stack books, magazines, or simple flat accessories on a table, and then place the table lamp on top of those items. This will actually add a greater sense of dimension to the table space itself. In addition, stacking a table lamp will add more height to the table and increase the illuminating effects in the room. You can even used a stacked table lamp in place of a floor lamp if the living area is better suited for a tall table lamp.

3. Experiment with Lampshade Design

Illumination in a living room is not just about the lamp itself. It is also about the lampshade and bulb that you are using with the lamp. Lampshades designs are an important design element in modern living rooms because they add color, texture, and pattern to the room. They can be plain and simple or ornately designed depending on your decorative needs. In addition, the wattage and type of light bulb that you choose will have a great impact on the illumination in the living room. The key to a functional and comfortable living room rests in the choice of illumination for the room. Lamp variations, dimensional attributes, and lampshade design can all have a positive influence on the mood and feel in the room.

Tags: table lamp, living room, floor lamp, living room, bulb that, choice illumination, choice illumination room

Restore A Canvas Ceiling With Painting

Paint canvas ceilings with ceiling paint.

If you live in a home that has a canvas ceiling, then you may be wondering what you can do to freshen the color and the look of the canvas. Canvas is a sturdy fabric that sometimes is used as decorative ceiling art in older homes. You can use a wide variety of paints on a canvas ceiling --- including acrylic craft paints --- but for the purpose of giving the ceiling a finished, fluid look, use ceiling paint.

Instructions

1. Spread a drop cloth across the floor to catch drips of paint.

2. Put on goggles and set up a stepladder. Climb up on the stepladder --- asking an assistant to hold it in place --- and run painter's tape along the trim adjacent to the ceiling to protect the trim from paint splatters and smudges.

3. Open the ceiling paint with a screwdriver, propping up the cover of the can and carefully removing the cover. Mix the ceiling paint with a paint stick and pour it into the paint tray.

4. Connect a paint roller to an extender and mush the roller gently into the paint. Roll the roller over the moguls on the tray to release the paint.

5. Roll the paint onto the canvas panels, using slow back-and-forth motions until the entire panel is coated with a single color of paint. Allow the ceiling paint to dry.

Tags: ceiling paint, canvas ceiling, ceiling paint with, into paint, paint Roll, paint with

Install A Portfolio Light Fixture

Portfolio Lighting is a leader in lighting innovation. Portfolio's products include flush-mount fixtures, lanterns, hanging pendants, low-voltage lighting, surface lighting and landscape lighting, but the manufacturer is known especially for its recessed-lighting systems. Designers and architects use Portfolio lighting to add emphasis and custom details. The installation for each Portfolio light fixture is unique, but it starts with basic procedures.

Instructions

1. Confirm a hot wire or switch leg (colored), a neutral wire (white) and a ground wire (green) at the electrical source where the Portfolio light fixture will be installed. Contact a qualified electrician to complete the work if electrical connections are missing.

2. Turn off the switch to the Portfolio light fixture. Turn off the switch to the connecting circuit at the breaker box. Test the power with a volt meter to ensure it is turned off at the circuit junction.

3. Strip 3/4-inch of plastic insulation from the hot, neutral and ground wires using wire strippers at both the junction box and on the Portfolio light fixture.

4. Using electrician pliers, twist together the corresponding wires: hot (colored), neutral (white) and ground (green).

5. Screw wire nuts onto each connection. Wrap each wire connection with electrical tape. Tuck the connections into either the junction box or the Portfolio light fixture.

6. Follow the instructions included with each Portfolio lighting product to install brackets, glass trim, accent trim, globes, crystal pendants or other decorative accessories. Install the light bulbs specific to the product.

7. Turn on the electricity to the Portfolio light fixture at the circuit breaker and at the light switch to ensure the fixture works.

Tags: light fixture, Portfolio light fixture, Portfolio light, circuit breaker, colored neutral, each Portfolio

Measure And Cut Crown Molding For Inside Corners

Adjust your blade size for moulding thickness.

Adding crown molding to the ceilings can provide an elegant, professional look. For those who have little experience with cutting trim, measuring and cutting crown molding may seem like a daunting task--but it is quite easy to understand. After a few practice cuts, trim your crown molding and attach it to the wall for a completed look.

Instructions

1. Measure the room with a measuring tape to determine how many feet of molding you need. Measure the lengths of each wall and add up the total. Add 10 percent to the amount, so you have extra to practice on.

2. Set up the miter saw on a sturdy surface. According to BobVila.com, a 10-inch blade is sufficient for cutting molding 5 inches thick or less. Thicker molding will need a larger saw blade.

3. Practice your cutting before you try to trim the actual piece of molding. Place the scrap of crown molding with the bottom edge (when hung, it will point down to the floor) facing the miter fence, which will be considered upside-down.

4. Adjust the saw for a 45-degree angle, meaning each cut you make will cut the pieces into 45-degree angles, allowing you to join them up in an inside corner for a 90-degree angle.

5. Set the saw for a left-hand cut at a 45-degree angle for a right-hand piece of molding. Once you cut through the molding, the piece on the left side of the blade is the correct piece to hang in a corner.

6. Cut the left-hand side of the molding for an inside corner by placing the molding down on the saw, with the bottom edge toward the fence. Adjust the saw for a right-hand cut at a 45-degree angle. Cut all the way through the molding, and the piece on the right side of the blade is the trim to hang in the corner to complete an inside cut.

Tags: crown molding, 45-degree angle, bottom edge, hang corner, inside corner, molding piece

Divide A Room With Ceiling Partition

Great rooms with one large area that functions as dining, living and family room leave wide open spaces, sometimes too wide. Partitioning off different areas provides for privacy and coziness. Add a guest room area in the living room with ceiling partitions of fabric that open and close. Divide a master bedroom into a section for a nursery with ceiling partitions. Or perhaps you'd like a hideaway office area. Construct the partition from fabric and it's quick to open and close.

Instructions

1. Measure the height from the floor to the ceiling. Standard size ceiling height is usually 8 feet. Measure the width of the room, or the length, however you plan on dividing the room. If possible divide the room where a stud goes across the ceiling. Use a stud finder.

2. Select screw hooks that have a hook that's big enough to comfortably hold the curtain rod.

3. Attach the screw hooks to the stud in the ceiling where you've decided to divide the room. Simply screw in the hook, turning the screw clockwise to tighten. If the screw is large, predrill the holes first with an electric drill. You'll need enough curtain rods to go across the room. For example, if the room is 10 feet wide, you'll need two curtain rods that telescope to a length of 5 feet. Attach the screw hooks to the ceiling stud a minimum of every 3 feet.

4. Place the curtain rods in the hooks.

5. Punch grommets into the drapery fabric every 12 inches across the width. A grommet is a metal ring with a hole in the middle. It's comprised of two pieces. Place one piece on each side of the fabric. Press together with the grommet tool. Cut an X in the fabric in the middle of the attached grommet. Use twice as much fabric as the room is wide. For example if the room is 10 feet wide, you'll need 20 feet of fabric. The fabric should hang down 8 feet or to the floor.

6. Put the drapery hooks through the grommets. Hang the hooks onto the curtain rods. Push the fabric open when you want the room open by grasping one end and pulling the fabric towards the wall. The drapery hooks will slide on the rods. Pull the fabric toward the center of the room to partition off the room and divide it.

Tags: curtain rods, screw hooks, Attach screw, Attach screw hooks, ceiling partitions

Install Log Siding

Log siding can be added to either the exterior or the interior of your home and can add warmth and rustic charm to almost any home.Modern log siding comes in either half round logs or quarter round logs, with tongue and groove edges for fast, easy, and air-tight installation.Log siding can be installed over wood studs or sheeting that has been applied over wood studs. Most interior and many exterior applications are easily accomplished by one or, at most, two people.

Instructions

1. Cut and install the specially-designed corner (vertical) logs as per the manufacturer's instructions. Leave the proper spacing between the floor and your corner piece as well as the proper space between the corner piece and the ceiling, as per the manufacturer's instructions (usually 1/2 inch). Use 3-inch or longer lag screws to attach the corner pieces to your studs and/or sheeting. Whenever possible screw through the log into a stud.

2. Cut the foundation log to the proper length so it fits snugly between the corner logs which have already been installed. Lay the foundation log along the bottom of your wall. Make certain it is level. Use shims if necessary to keep it approximately 1/2 inch off the floor and perfectly level. Make sure the "tongue" of the tongue and groove is running the length of the top of the log. Use 3-inch or longer lag screws to hold this bottom log to the wall. Screws should be spaced every 24 inches or per manufacturer's instructions. When possible screw through the log and into a stud.

3. Cut the next log to the proper length and lay it on top of the foundation log. Use your hammer and a wooden block to carefully tap the tongue of the lower log into the groove of the log you are now adding. make sure the fit is tight. If the original foundation log was perfectly level than all additional logs should be level, but it is still a good idea to check this every couple of rows. Use a hammer or a nail gun to drive a 2.5-inch nail into either end of the log. Nails should be driven at a 45 degree angle just under the tongue so that the next level of log will hide the nail heads from view. Continue adding nails every 24 inches or as per manufacturer's suggestion. Whenever possible, nails should be driven into studs.

4. Continue adding rows of new logs until you reach the top of the wall. The top log may need to be ripped using a table saw depending on the height of your wall. Each new level of wall needs to be tapped into place using your hammer and a wooden block to make sure that they seat firmly into their tongue and groove before being nailed to the wall as described in the previous step..

5. If wall is longer than the length of your logs, be sure to cut your logs so that the seams are staggered. A random pattern is often most pleasing.Fill screw holes in foundation piece and corner pieces with wood putty and allow to dry. Continue with next wall.

Tags: manufacturer instructions, tongue groove, 3-inch longer, 3-inch longer screws, between corner, Continue adding, corner piece

Drywall Ceiling Repair Tips

Drywall ceilings are prevalent across the United States, and, for that matter, around the world. Drywall is a universal material that can be painted, wallpapered or stuccoed. It will last a long time if cared for properly, however, sometimes damage is inevitable. Once damaged, drywall is flexible enough to be repaired without much difficulty. Repairs can be done with ease, and, depending on the size of the job, you can complete a repair in as little as two hours, plus drying time.

Check the Damage

Check the drywall for damage. If you have water damage, make sure that the area outside of the water stain is still strong and not flaky. Any area where the paper is falling away must be replaced.

Remove the Damage

Remove the damaged drywall by cutting 2 inches outside the damaged area. Try to remove the drywall over to a stop point that centers over a wooden ceiling joist. If the area is smaller than 6 inches by 6 inches, then just cut out an 8 inch square from the drywall.

Replace the Drywall

For repairs less than 12 inches by 12 inches, replace the drywall by cutting a new piece as large as the opening on the old drywall. Attach the patch using drywall screws. Make sure that the screws are attached into wood. If you don't have any wood to screw into, slide a 1-by-4 block, cut 6 inches longer than the patch, into the hole. This wooden brace will rest inside the ceiling and on the back side of the drywall. You will screw drywall screws through the existing drywall and into this brace to hold it into place. The wooden brace will span over the hole and will give you something to screw the new drywall patch to.

Larger Sections

Replace larger sections of damaged ceiling by removing the damage in 2 feet by 4 feet sections. If the area is larger, just work in these increments.such as 4 feet by 4 feet. Because ceiling joists are set on 24-inch centers, and drywall comes in 4-foot-wide sections, you will do this so as to re attach large patches into 2-by wood framing. For example, if your damaged area is 16 inches square, find the ceiling joist to the left of the area and to the right of the area by tapping on the ceiling and driving a screw into the suspected joist. If your screw tightens, then you have found the joist. Cut the drywall across the joist, 4 feet wide, being sure to cut so the edge is centered on the joist. Remove this piece of damaged drywall, piece a new piece of drywall the same size as large, and attach into the wooden ceiling joist.

Finish

Tape the joints using finishing tape. Apply drywall mud, allow to dry for 24 hours, reapply a second coat that is feathered out past the patch by 8 inches all around, allow to dry and sand. Add a primer, and then repaint to match the existing ceiling.

Tags: ceiling joist, damaged drywall, brace will, damaged area, drywall cutting, drywall screws