Adding texture to a popcorn ceiling may give it a new look.
Removing popcorn ceilings is labor-intensive and time-consuming. Spraying texture over the popcorn is an easy way to change the look of a room. Though the job is messy, the simplest way to spray a popcorn ceiling with textured paint is to use a texture gun. Plan to practice before you start on the ceiling. Use a texture gun with an air compressor for a large job such as a ceiling. They can be purchased or rented at home improvement stores.
Instructions
1. Wash the ceiling with a heavy-duty detergent such as trisodium phosphate (TSP) if it's dirty. Use a sponge mop or wash it by hand. Brush down cobwebs and dust. Caulk large cracks. Smaller cracks will be covered by the texture so they don't need to be caulked.
2. Cover the floor and furniture with drop cloths. Tape off the windows and tape brown Kraft paper around the walls where they meet the ceiling. This prevents over-spray from getting on the walls.
3. Mix texture compound according to the manufacturer's instructions. Make sure there are no lumps in the mixture. Lumps can clog the texture gun. Some textures come premixed, but they can be expensive to use on an entire ceiling.
4. Add the mixture to the hopper on the texture gun. Practice your technique on a scrap piece of cardboard or Sheetrock. Adjust the air pressure and the trigger sensitivity until the mixture comes out at your desired consistency.
5. Hold the texture gun about 4 feet from the ceiling as you work. Use a sweeping back and forth motion to spray the texture onto the ceiling.
6. Stop occasionally to check for places you've missed or areas where the texture is lumpy. Use a putty knife to scrape down thick areas.
Replacing or updating ceiling tiles will give new life to a room.
Suspended ceilings, also called drop ceilings, were designed as a way to hide wiring, pipes or heating and cooling equipment. It is a design that sits below the structural ceiling and usually created using a metal grid and ceiling tiles. Over time, these tiles tend to become
discolored, worn or otherwise unattractive and require replacement. The replacement process can be done by even novice do-it-yourselfers, and there are several options available for replacement tiles.
Faux Tin
Faux tin has the look of a tin ceiling at a fraction of the cost and with a significantly lighter weight. These products are available in a variety of colors, textures and patterns, making them ideal for just about any decorating style. Depending on the design, some take the
place of existing tiles, while others are glued over the top of damaged tiles. Unlike traditional tile materials, faux tin won't stain, warp or absorb odors. According to Betterceilings.com, the
installation process for an average size room will take less than a day to complete.
Paint
Paint is perhaps the most inexpensive option when deciding to upgrade an old drop ceiling. As long as the panels are structurally sound, applying a coat of paint will cover most discoloration or staining with no problem. The color options are almost unlimited, and with modern formulas, it is possible to eliminate any odors that have been absorbed into the material. Select light or neutral tones for small rooms or those that lack natural light. These colors, particularly shades of white, cream, beige or taupe, will reflect light and give an illusion of more space. Darker colors will make a room feel smaller and darker and should be avoided in basements and other confined spaces.
Drywall
Drywall is among the most widely used ceiling products in modern homes. It is created by combining plasterboard or gypsum and pressed between sheets of construction-grade paper. Instead of replacing tiles, use drywall to build a solid ceiling and leave an access panel for wiring or ductwork if needed. Though the cost of this kind of project is higher than simply replacing tiles, drywall is more durable, has a significantly longer life span and will eliminate the need for future tile replacement. It is paintable, fairly easy to install
and will resist staining, odor absorption and other problems associated with drop ceiling tiles.
Fabric and Blinds
Removing damaged tiles and replacing them with something decorative will add a personal touch to a space. Instead of standard tiles, cover empty spaces with fabric. This is a fairly inexpensive, simple method for adding both color and texture to a room. Additionally, it doesn't require special tools or skills, just the fabric of choice, pushpins or a staple gun. An added bonus is that the style is easy to change or adjust depending on personal preference. Standard window blinds will also create a visually interesting tile replacement. These products are available in a wide variety of colors, sizes and materials, and like fabric are easy to change and adjust as desired. Both fabric and blinds are widely available from retail stores and online outlets.
Tags: ceiling tiles, change adjust, damaged tiles, drop ceiling,
Polystyrene ceiling tiles are glued in place and, as such, are tedious but not difficult to remove once they start showing signs of wear. They crumble easily and can be removed with little more than a dull scraper, as long as you're willing to put in the time required. Keep in mind that polystyrene tiles are often installed to conceal ceiling damage, so you're likely to find holes, water spots and other signs of ceiling problems you may not have known about previously when removing polystyrene tiling.
Instructions
1. Remove as much in the way of furniture and accessories from the room as is reasonably possible. Cover everything remaining---including the floor---with tarps or plastic sheeting to help contain the polystyrene mess you're about to create.
2. Start in the least prominent corner of the room. Set up a step ladder.
3. Climb the ladder and use a dull paint scraper---held at a shallow angle to the ceiling---to scrape the away from the ceiling surface.
4. Move the ladder as necessary to continue working across the ceiling, scraping the polystyrene tiles off as you go. It's always better to move the ladder than to lean far out from the ladder in an effort to reach farther and risk falling down.
5. Use a wallpaper steamer to loosen the glue that held the tiles in place, then scrape it away using the same scraper you used to remove the tiling. Work carefully to avoid damaging the ceiling surface.
6. Gather up the tarps or plastic sheeting once you're done, bundling them together to keep the polystyrene debris from spreading, and dispose of them in the garbage.
Few things are more satisfying than a sparkling clean house, but most people stop at the top of the tallest piece of furniture. Ceiling vents are great dust collectors, and in the kitchen they can also attract grease. To get the dust off of your ceiling vents so that your heater and air conditioning aren't simply blowing irritants back into your home, follow these simple tips. They are arranged from the lightest cleaning to the most intensive.
Instructions
1. The simplest method is to use a vacuum cleaner with the extension and brush attachment to suck the dust off of your ceiling vents. Tape the to the extension with duct tape so that it doesn't get knocked off when you are cleaning the vent.
2. For a more thorough cleaning, put on your goggles and dust mask and use a broom to clean the dust off of the vents, then sweep it up from the floor.
3. The most labor-intensive method is to climb a ladder so you can reach the ceiling vents and use a screwdriver to remove the vents. Make sure you keep the screws in a safe place.
4. Wash the vents thoroughly with the de-greaser and hot water. Dish soap works for mild dust; use TSP or Mr. Clean for kitchen grease. When they are clean, dry the vents completely, and replace them.
Tags: ceiling vents, brush attachment, dust your, dust your ceiling, your ceiling, your ceiling vents
If you have a projector of any type, you will need a . Most screens you can buy will come with a mount. Once you decide what kind of mount you want, your next step is finding it.
Instructions
1. Call your screen's manufacturer. If you already have a screen, the manufacturer will have the best suggestions for mounts that are compatible. The manufacturer can also direct you to a local store where you can buy it.
2. Check your local office supply store. Remember that an office supply store will carry only a few different types of projector screen mounts. You will have the best luck if you go to the same store that sold you the projector screen.
3. Try an online search. There are hundreds of specialty online stores that carry only audio-visual equipment. Find a store that specializes in audio-visual equipment. This store will give you the opportunity find and compare several projector screen mounts at once.
4. Search through local listings. You might be able to buy a used screen mount from a local business. Check listings in your local paper or craigslist site. These are good places to find second-hand items, and they may have the mount you're looking for!
Removing the lighting fixture from a ceiling fan is an effective way to change the decor of a room and cut energy costs. Most modern fans with attached lighting fixtures are constructed to allow their removal without affecting the normal operation of the fan. You can remove the lighting fixture attached to your fan in just a few short steps.
Instructions
1. Turn off the power to the room in which the fan is located by moving the corresponding circuit breaker to the "off" position.
2. Detach the glass dome or shades from the lighting fixture and remove the light bulbs. Use the ladder if you cannot reach the light by standing on the floor.
3. Locate the point at which the lighting fixture attaches to the fan; a lighting fixture attaches either directly to the fan or to the circuit box in the ceiling.
4. Unscrew the lighting fixture from the fan or the circuit box. Be sure to support the weight of the lighting fixture as you remove the screws; the wires running from the lighting fixture to the fan are not strong enough to hold the fixture up by themselves. Lower the lighting fixture several inches below the fan to expose the wiring.
5. Locate the wires running from the lighting fixture to the fan and remove the plastic caps from those wires. Disconnect the lighting fixture's wires from the fan's wires and replace the caps over the bare ends of the now unused wires hanging down from the fan.
6. Install a cover plate over the exposed wires on the fan. Most fans come with a cover plate to account for the possibility that someone might remove the lighting fixture. If you do not have the for your fan, buy one from the fan's manufacturer or a major hardware retailer.
Tags: lighting fixture, cover plate, fixture remove, from lighting, from lighting fixture
Cutting the chaos is another plus in decorating your laundry room.
Though it is easy to do, you shouldn't neglect the decor in your bathroom and laundry room. Don't be fooled by their traditionally utilitarian reputations--these two rooms deserve to be as plush, hip and well-decorated as any other room in the house. Decorating these rooms doesn't mean sacrificing functionality, either. By combining fresh decorations with a practical spin, you ensure that your bathroom and laundry room will be as attractive as they are useful.
Instructions
Laundry Room
1. Paint the walls, using a light, relaxed color. This makes this traditionally compact larger and less like a cave.
2. Place a designer dish near the washing machine as a place for anything lingering in pants pockets.
3. Place a trash can near the dryer for dryer lint--one with a closing lid reduces the risk of fire.
4. Invest in a decorative ironing board that hangs on the door, saving you space.
5. Store little things such as fabric-softener sheets and stain fighters in matching decorative totes. These can be simple plastic bins, but fabric bins are available in a variety of colors and patterns, allowing you to make a decorative statement while keeping things organized.
6. Lay down a patterned rug to pull the room together, add color and give your feet something soft to stand on.
7. Hang a few small photos on the wall for a personal touch; too many can make the space seem cluttered, though.
Bathroom
8. Complement your bathroom's light, neutral color scheme with splashes of light color such as pink and powder blue. A colored shower curtain sets the tone for the entire room.
9. Decorate the room with a consistent theme. For example, use anchors, seashells and blue accents for an appropriate nautical theme.
10. Add accents such as bamboo, decorative rocks and an assortment of candles to make a zen-garden-inspired bathroom.
11. Paint with clean black-and-white lines to create a vintage-style bathroom. Install checkered black and white floor tiles.
Endless options of creativity exist with ceramic tiles.
For those who are remodeling a home, extra ceramic tiles seem to appear everywhere. Bathroom and kitchen stores often give out sample tiles for free, so when the decisions are made, many ceramic tiles are left over. Luckily, there any many project ideas for cool things to create with ceramic tiles.
Ceramic Mosaic Table
For a colorful, simple-to-make table, use old, broken pieces of ceramic tiles. You can use as many colors and size of tiles as you desire, and the result is gorgeous. Wrought iron tables are perfect for this project, and all you need is a piece of wood cut to the measurements of the table, grout, which is available at any home store, and a strong tacky glue. Gather the pieces of ceramic tile that you have, or use a hammer to crack large pieces of tile. If you are cracking large pieces, cover the tile with an old cloth so that the pieces will not fly everywhere. Pieces will come out different sizes and shapes and odd uniqueness to the table. To create the table, simply choose whatever design you want. You could make a border of one color, and put multi-colored tiles in the middle, or simply place random colors everywhere. Glue each tile down with tacky glue, leaving about a quarter of an inch in between the tiles for the grout. Wait for a day or so, mix the grout and spread it in between the tiles. After the grout has dried, wipe a wet cloth across the tiles to get extra grout off. Use your new, colorful table inside or outside.
Funky Porch Ceiling Decor
For a funky, artsy look, make pieces into a creative ceiling hanging. Use larger pieces of tile that have enough room to drill a small hole into it. Select seven or eight pieces in various colors and shapes, and drill one hole into the top of each. With a strong, clear fishing line, tie each piece securely to a round wire circle, and affix it to the ceiling of a screened-in porch. If you live in a windy area, tie pennies and other pieces of glass close to the tiles to get a wind-chimes effect. Use this same idea with one long piece of fishing line and the tiles become a vertical wall hanging, which is an inexpensive and funky way to add color and character to a room or porch.
Cheese Tray and Coasters
A simple use for a ceramic tile is to turn it into a classy cheese tray. If you have a large, unbroken tile, simply clean it off and set it on a counter with cheese, crackers and a knife, and you've created an elegant tray. If you have several pieces of broken tile, simply get a piece of round or square wood or an old tray, and use the same mosaic method as described above. With a little bit of work, you have a lovely tray to use again and again. If you're feeling really creative, apply the same method to smaller pieces of wood to create matching coasters.
Tags: ceramic tiles, ceramic tile, between tiles, fishing line, hole into, large pieces
Drawers are generally designed without a particular function in mind. Due to this, it becomes more difficult to use the space in creative ways. When you are still in the designing stage of a new kitchen or a kitchen remodel, an opportunity arises in creating drawers that do more than hold cutlery trays, becoming customized, convenient storage spaces for all manner of kitchen items.
Partitioned Drawers
Partitioned drawers are fairly inexpensive to install in drawers. Naturally, are partitions, but they are only one way of partitioning. Platters and larger, more awkward pans can be stored in with narrow partitions, storing the platters and pans upright. Utensil canisters can be installed in drawers to store utensils vertically, allowing a higher volume of utensils or cutlery to be stored in a single place than a traditional cutlery tray. Also consider installing a multitude of wide, shallow drawers for utensil storage. Store the utensils in one layer, with dividers between each utensil, making them easy to find, retrieve and replace.
Food Storage
A spice drawer, with separate spaces for different bottles, can be convenient during cooking if placed in a drawer near a commonly used workspace. Spice drawers can either have angled spaces for the spices or can be flat. Angled spice racks for drawers are commercially available as inserts. Bread box drawers are deep drawers designed with bread loaves in mind, equipped with a sliding cover when you pull out the drawer. Tall, more narrow drawers can be installed with shelves instead of traditional cabinets to be pulled out, allowing food items to be viewable and accessible from both sides.
Pullouts
Pullouts are a fusion between a cabinet and drawers, in some ways more useful than either. Pullouts usually have a door opening in varying styles, from slideup or folding to the traditional hinged door. Pullouts are basically slideout shelves and make use of all of the square inches in a space by allowing the back of a space to slide out to meet you, instead of you having to reach to pull things out. Pullouts also make stored items more visible. One option for pullouts is to store appliances on them. Pullouts that swing up to counter height work well for appliance storage, especially if a wall socket is positioned within the cabinet.
A touch-sensitive lamp is convenient at the side of your bed.
Touch-sensitive lamps respond to the touch of your fingertips. Touch any metal on the lamp and the lamp burns at a low, medium or high light level. Continual use of the lamp can cause the touch control box wired inside the lamp to quit working. Without a physical exterior switch, the touch-sensitive lamp will get stuck in either the off or the on position. Replace the failed control box to repair a .
Instructions
1. Unplug the lamp from the wall. Take the lamp shade and light bulb from the touch-sensitive lamp. Take the bottom off the lamp by either removing the screws or peeling the plastic bottom off the base. The way the bottom attaches depends upon the manufacturer.
2. Mark the two hot wires on the touch-sensitive lamp with black electrical tape. One hot wire from the lamp plug connects to the black wire on the touch control box. The other hot wire connects to either the red or gray wire from the control box. The color of the second wire on the control box depends on who manufactured it.
3. Untwist the wire connectors holding three of the wires from the touch control box to the three lamp wires. Use pliers to remove the lock nut holding the yellow wire to the pipe nipple. Set the wire connectors aside and discard the original touch control box.
4. Install a new touch control box into your touch-sensitive lamp. Install the yellow wire onto the pipe nipple and replace the lock nut to hold the yellow wire in place. Twist one of the wire connectors onto the white wire from the new touch control box, connecting it with the two wires from the lamp that are not marked with black electrical tape.
5. Twist another wire connector onto the red or gray wire from the touch control box, connecting it with the lamp wire marked with black electrical tape running up the pipe nipple. Twist the remaining wire connector onto the black wire from the touch control box, connecting it with the remaining lamp wire marked with black electrical tape.
6. Push the touch control box into the base of the touch-sensitive lamp and replace the bottom of the lamp. Reinstall the light bulb, the lamp shade and plug the lamp into the wall.
Think "vertical" when planning wall art for a high-ceilinged room.
Sweeping, two-story ceilings that add drama to your rooms can be tough to decorate. The large, vertical expanses draw the eye upward, leaving the rooms feeling smaller at floor level. Yet, furnishings still tend to get lost in the midst of all that empty space. Create a warmer, more intimate atmosphere by decorating rooms with two-story ceilings in a way that makes the most of the ceiling height while keeping the focus comfortably low.
Instructions
1. Install decorative ceiling beams in a style that's compatible with your home's architecture and decor. Whereas rustic beams work well in cabins, sleeker, more streamlined beams are appropriate for a contemporary space. Beams acknowledge the ceiling height by drawing attention to it, yet serve as hard stops for your gaze that help preserve a sense of intimacy.
2. Install shelving around the perimeter of the room, at the same height as the first-floor walls, to tie the lower part of the room to the ceiling beams. Decorate the shelves with large, tall objects, such as candlesticks and vases, to draw the eye upward, yet further relate the ceiling to the lower part of the room.
3. Choose paint colors that visually reduce the ceiling height and enhance the room's intimacy. Paint the room a deep color. Paint the ceiling a few shades darker than the walls. Hang narrow molding about a foot below the ceiling and extend the ceiling color down to the molding, to visually reduce the height of the ceiling. Paint or stain the molding to match the rest of the room's moldings and trims. Create continuity by using the paint colors elsewhere in the room, such as in accent fabrics and art.
4. Ground the lower portion of the room to keep the focus on the human-sized scale that most people find comfortable. Oversized furniture that's proportionate to the size of the room is one way to achieve this. Include tall pieces, such as bookcases. Arrange furniture away from the walls in groupings that define areas -- for conversation and reading, for example -- and anchor the groupings with area rugs.
5. Accessorize using a variety of materials and textures to add depth to your room's design and further emphasize the lower portion. Exercise restraint, however. An overly decorated room feels cluttered no matter what the ceiling height and it throws a room with a high ceiling off balance.
Install a bathroom fan-light-heater for comfort and convenience.
A bathroom light with a fan and heater provides comfort and convenience. The fan exhausts damp air, the heater warms the room and the fixture provides light at the same time. The unit can be wired with each component on a different switch, or with the fan and light on the same switch. Whichever way you choose to wire it, the light-fan-heater unit should be installed on a separate circuit breaker.
Instructions
1. Turn off power to the circuit by turning the circuit breaker off. Run 12 gauge sheathed cable between the fan-light-heater unit and the switch box. Run two lengths of cable if you are wiring the fan and light on the same switch, and three lengths if the fan and light will be on separate switches. Strip six inches of sheathing from the ends of each cable and push the cable into the switch box and the fan-light-heater wiring box.
2. Make a pigtail on the hot wire coming from the circuit breaker. Cut one 6-inch length of 12 gauge black wire for each switch and strip 1-inch of insulation from one end of each, and 3/4-inch of insulation from the other end of each. Strip 1-inch of insulation from the end of the black hot wire. Twist all the 1-inch bare wire ends together with a lineman's pliers and twist on a wire nut.
3. Strip 1-inch of insulation off all the white wires. Twist the bare ends together with the lineman's pliers and cap with a wire nut.
4. Cut an 8-inch piece of bare copper ground wire for each switch. Twist all of the incoming bare ground wires together with the pieces cut for the switches. Trim the end of the twisted wires and cap them with a wire nut or use a copper ground crimp to hold them together.
5. Turn the remaining ends of the ground wires into a U-shape with a long-nose pliers. Loosen the green ground terminal screws on the switches with a screwdriver and place the ground wires on the screws so the wire wraps around the screw clockwise. Tighten the green ground screws firmly.
6. Strip the 3/4 inch of insulation from the black wires coming from the fan-light-heater unit. Turn the end of each, and the black pigtailed wires, into a U-shape with the long-nose pliers. Loosen the switch terminals with a screwdriver. Place one wire from the pigtail and one wire from the fan-light-heater unit on each switch. The U-shaped wire end should wrap clockwise around the terminal. Tighten all the terminals firmly.
7. Twist all the ground wires together in the fan-light-heater unit, leaving a tail to attach to the green ground wire or green ground terminal. Use a wire nut to connect the bare ground wire with the green ground wire, or wrap the tail clockwise around the green ground screw and tighten the screw.
8. Strip 1-inch of insulation from the ends of the white wires coming from the switches. Twist these white wires together with the lineman's pliers. Hold the twisted white wire ends together with the white fan-light-heater unit white wires and twist on a wire nut.
9. Strip 3/4-inch of insulation from the black wires coming from the switches. Connect each black wire from the switches to one fan-light-heater unit colored wire by holding them together and twisting on a wire nut.
Tags: fan-light-heater unit, green ground, insulation from, together with, , coming from, ground wire
Cutting trim is more complicated than it looks, and cutting crown molding is the most complicated of all. Crown molding is designed to span the upper horizontal corners of the room, stretching from the edge of the ceiling to the edge of the wall. It doesn't sit flat against the wall like baseboard does, but is tucked up at an angle. So when you cut pieces to go around a corner, the cuts have to be angled to accommodate the angle of the wood. The cuts through the thickness of the wood also have to be angled so they fit together in the corners. A compound double-angle is needed, in other words, and both parts of it have to be right. A tilting power miter saw is essential, because it allows you to deal with both angles at once. But the real trick is to constantly visualize how the trim pieces will fit together and cut the correct angles, even when you've got the trim upside-down and backward on your saw.
Instructions
1. Standing on your ladder, measure the shortest wall of the room, going from the upper top corner, where the wall meets the ceiling.
2. Lay your first piece of molding face-down on your workbench, so you're working on its back side. With your tri-square and pencil, mark a 45-degree angled line across the width of the trim, starting about two inches from the end of the trim and angling inward toward the middle. If it is going to an inner corner, the bottom side of the piece should be at the outer point of the angle; if it's for an outer corner, the top of the piece should be at the point.
3. Now hold the piece up horizontally, the face toward you, with the wall in the background and the piece positioned the way will it go on the wall. This allows you to visually confirm the direction that the angled cut through the wood needs to go so it will be flush to the other corner piece. If it's an inner corner, the cut will angle outward from the face toward the back, so the back of the piece is longer; for an outer corner, the angle will travel inward, so the face of the trim is longer.
4. Still holding the piece horizontally in front of you, mark lightly with your pencil on the edge of the trim, drawing the angle of the line going in the direction that it will need to go through the thickness of the wood. Do this freehand; it doesn't need to be the right degree of angle, it just needs to be pointing in the right direction.
5. Put the piece down on your miter saw platform, face down, with the line that you drew on the back facing up at the blade. Swivel the blade to the correct 45-degree side so it is directly over the angle line across the back. The bottom of the piece, where you marked your freehand angled line through the thickness of the wood, should be facing you as well, so you can see the direction of the angle by looking down at the edge of the trim. Now tilt your miter blade in the same direction as the angle, setting the tilt of the blade at 45 degrees.
6. Cut down into the line you've marked on the back of the piece, making sure that you're accounting for the thickness of the blade. It should come down to the wood entirely on one side of the straight line, and then angle into the wood in the direction you marked.
7. Measure the trim from your new cut to get the full size you originally determined you needed for the first wall. Measure from the longest point of the cut you just made (i.e., if the face side is longer, measure the face; if the back side is longer, measure on the back). Either way, transfer the measurement onto the back of the piece and proceed as before, marking a line across the width, finding the correct angle from there and cutting on the miter. The piece is now ready to be hung.
Tags: back piece, , thickness wood, through thickness,
You can recreate the look of a faux tin ceiling using embossed wallpaper that's designed to replicate the appearance of tin tiles. Make sure the embossed wallpaper is made to be painted, so you can color your ceiling if you wish.
Instructions
1. Wallpaper your ceiling following standard wallpapering techniques. Since you're working with the ceiling, you might want to enlist the help of some friends to ease the process.
2. Allow the wallpaper to cure for a week before you paint it. Curing ensures the adhesive is secured to the ceiling before you introduce the moisture of the paint.
3. Prime the embossed wallpaper with a silver or black-tinted primer.
4. Paint the wallpaper with a silver metallic paint glaze. Apply with a paint roller for a flat, even appearance. Or, wash the paint glaze on with a damp rag to create variances in the color depth, as if the tin ceiling is aged.
Tags: embossed wallpaper, paint glaze, wallpaper with, wallpaper with silver, with silver, your ceiling
The kitchen is the heart of many homes. Many families spend most of their time together in this room. A well-designed kitchen floor plan is not just about having the latest and greatest appliances. It is about having a kitchen that functions well for the needs of the family and effectively fits their lifestyle.
Instructions
Measure What's Existing
1. Measure the lengths and heights of all the walls in your existing floor plan as well as the general perimeter and shape of the kitchen.
2. Measure the existing cabinet lengths, their depths, heights and widths.
3. Measure the height and width of the existing kitchen doors and windows, but not their present location in the kitchen. (This could change.)
4. Draw the general shape of the kitchen on a piece of paper using the architectural scale and triangles noted above. Most residential floor plans are drawn at a quarter-inch or an eighth-inch scale. Drawing the kitchen to a scale will help you visualize the size of all the items that need to be placed in the kitchen.
Guidelines
5. Research and review the National Kitchen and Bath Association (NKBA) guidelines for kitchen design. They help to provide principles that will give you a more functional work space.
6. Consider the traffic that moves throughout the house and what role the kitchen plays in that movement. Research the different styles you want your kitchen to look like by examining different magazines and visiting different showrooms to get ideas.
7. Consider the lighting as integral to the design of your kitchen. A well-lit kitchen has different types: task, ambient, accent and decorative.
Design
8. Design the kitchen so that the work triangle of the kitchen is very easy to maneuver and work in. The work triangle is based on locating the sink, the cooktop range, and the refrigerator so that each of the three legs of the triangle measure between 12 and 26 feet.
9. Locate the refrigerator so that the door can swing clear and can give two people access to the inside at the same time. It should not be up against a corner or block the entryway into or out of the kitchen.
10. Locate the sink underneath the window whenever possible. Ideally the sink should be located first and then the other appliances can be placed around it.
11. Installing the cooktop range on an exterior wall will allow for easy installation of the hood and ventilation systems.
12. Locate the sink in a place where you can have at least 36 inches of free space on one side and 24 inches on the other to allow for a place to put dishes. This also creates space for a dishwasher to be located next to the sink underneath the countertop.
Tags: about having, cooktop range, floor plan, kitchen that,
Pull chains on a ceiling fan may need to be replaced.
Many ceiling fans include a light to optimize the ceiling space in the room. A most commonly controls the light on the ceiling fan. When you pull the chain, the light will either increase in brightness or turn off or on. The most common problem is the chain breaking or coming loose from the fan housing. Repairing the switch typically takes less than 10 minutes.
Instructions
1. Turn off the electricity to the room at the circuit breaker to prevent shocks while working on the ceiling fan.
2. Unscrew the globes and bulbs from the ceiling fan by hand.
3. Remove the screws that hold the canopy to the ceiling light. Hold it from the bottom as you unscrew the canopy. Try to keep the screws form falling on the floor. Pull the canopy off.
4. Unscrew the light switch from the canopy plate by removing the nut that holds it in place. Remove the wire connector that holds one end of the switch in place, and cut the wire using your pliers at the other end of the switch.
5. Strip the end of the cut wire and attach it to the new wire switch using a wire connector. Attach the other end of the switch to the wire exposed when the other wire connector was removed from the old switch.
6. Tighten down the new switch using the, nut and reassemble the ceiling fan.
Tags: wire connector, other switch, , switch using, that holds
Applying plaster to a ceiling is an intermediately difficult DIY project.
Adding plaster over chicken wire spread across the ceiling is one way to transform the appearance of any room. Plaster ceilings were often used in the past before the wide use of drywall and other ready-made wall coatings. Adding a plaster coating to a ceiling will give a room an old-fashioned appearance that works well with French-, English- and Spanish-style decorating. Spreading plaster onto a ceiling is a little more difficult than spreading it onto a wall, simply because of the height. Use a stable ladder and proper safety gear to protect yourself while applying the plaster.
Instructions
1. Mix 6 cups of water with 5 pounds of gypsum plaster with a paint-mixing attached on an electric drill. Mix the materials together until the plaster becomes smooth and creamy without any lumps. The plaster should have the consistency of peanut butter.
2. Smooth the plaster over the ceiling with a plaster trowel. Make sure you wear safety goggles and a hat to protect your eyes and head from falling plaster. Spread the plaster to a thickness of about 1/4 inch. Allow the plaster to dry for 24 hours.
3. Apply a second layer of plaster to the ceiling. Spread this layer to the same 1/4-inch thickness. Smooth out any bumps for a even ceiling finish, or create swirls or ridges in the plaster with the trowel for a more decorative appearance. Allow the plaster to cure for an additional 24 hours.
Tags: Adding plaster, , plaster ceiling, plaster over, plaster with
Lighting kits like this one can be installed on existing ceiling fans.
Emerson is one of the biggest names in ceiling fans and home lighting, and offers many options for fan and light combinations. Whether assembling a new fan with a light or adding a lighting kit to an existing ceiling fan, knowing the right way to install the kit is crucial to success.
Instructions
1. Turn off electricity to the fan before you begin work by flipping the circuit breaker for the area where the fan is located. Circuit breakers are generally in a wall panel near the center or basement of the home and are usually labeled.
2. Unscrew the lighting plate at the center of the ceiling fan. Several wires will be exposed - black, white and in some kits green.
3. Connect the wires from the lighting kit to the matching color wires in the ceiling fan. Many fans come with plug connectors that plug the wires together. If the fan has only bare wires and the light kit has plug connectors, cut the connectors off the tips of the light kit wires and strip off a few inches of the insulation using wire strippers. Then place the bare wires alongside each other, pressing them into the twist-on wire connector and twisting the connector clockwise while holding the wires firmly together.
4. Hold the wired lighting kit in place against the center of the ceiling fan and screw it .
5. Install any globes or light shades that came with the kit. These are generally installed by screwing them into place or tightening screws at their base over the kit's light sockets.
6. Install light bulbs in the light sockets.
7. Flip the circuit breaker back on so electricity runs to the ceiling fan.
Tags: bare wires, ceiling fans, center ceiling, circuit breaker, existing ceiling, into place
Japanese interior style has long been celebrated for its elegant minimalism. When Japanese style principles are introduced into home decor, the finished result is typically sleek and modern, while still retaining an ancient feeling of mystery. Accessories with Japanese flair are not hard to find, thanks to the popularity of the style. A few decor pieces and design techniques can turn any living room into a Japanese-style space.
Instructions
1. Select the color palette for your living room, choosing from two common styles. The first is bold, done in white, black and red. The second is more muted and relies heavily on earth tones to bring nature in. Pick the one that is more closely suited to your personal style.
2. Paint the room. Remove everything from the living room so that you are working with a blank slate. Paint the walls according to the color palette you've chosen.
3. Add window treatments. Bamboo shades work well with an earth-toned room and are best suited for those who prefer to block more light. Rice paper shades let in more light and could work with either color scheme.
4. Place a rug in the center of the room. A tatami or sisal rug is ideal for the earth tone color scheme. For the bold color scheme, a black and white rug with an Oriental motif would work best. The rug should be centered in the room to provide balance.
5. Begin adding in your furniture. Less is more in a Japanese-style living room. Select pieces that provide enough seating without cluttering up the room. In the center of the rug, place a low table with floor cushions. Couches and chairs should then be placed along the walls of the room to improve the overall flow and feel.
6. Bring in decor objects and lighting. Avoid overusing decor items and select three to five key pieces for the room. For the center of the table in the middle of the room, place a small bonsai tree or an interesting Asian-inspired figurine. For the walls, you can add a Japanese style screen or a small calligraphy print. Add accent lighting around the room for warmth and necessary light.
7. Keep all clutter out of the living room. Japanese style is minimalistic. Add a few bamboo baskets to store away frequently used items such as remotes or magazines. The finished result should be almost bare to highlight the furniture pieces and artwork.
Tags: color scheme, living room, color palette, Design Japanese, Design Japanese Style
Trick the eye with paint, wallpaper and lighting techniques.
Whether you've moved into a basement apartment or are using attic space as an extra room, low ceilings can be a challenge. There are several design schemes that will trick the eye into thinking the ceilings are higher than they actually are.
Instructions
1. Paint any room with low ceilings with a light, reflective paint. Paint the ceiling itself with a slightly lighter color than the walls to give the illusion of height. Or, paint the walls and ceiling the exact same light shade which will trick the mind into thinking the ceiling is higher. Avoid dark colors as they will make the space feel more compact.
2. Wallpaper or paint the room using vertical stripes. These stripes are another way to trick the mind into believing that the ceiling is higher than it actually is. Wallpaper works well, but there is also a paint option available. Using painters tape, mark off the areas of the wall where you would like to paint vertical stripes. Use a light colored, reflective shade to paint between the tape lines, creating contrast with the rest of the wall.
3. Match the scale of furniture and accessories with the size of the room. Ceilings will seem even lower in a room stuffed with over-sized furniture or huge pieces of art. A low-back sofa will call less attention to the low ceilings than a couch with a high back. Making sure that everything in the room is to scale will create balance and draw attention away from the ceiling.
4. Use lights. A dark space automatically seems smaller and more cramped than a well-lit room. Place plenty of lamps in the room as the light will bounce off the reflective paint, making it feel more spacious.
5. Hang curtains from ceiling to floor. Even if the windows in your room are small or of average size, dress them as though they are much larger. Hanging curtains from the ceiling to the floor makes the room feel grander and is another simple way to trick the believing that the ceiling is higher.
Tags: , from ceiling, mind into, , trick mind into
No matter how big or small the makeover, planning is the key to perfection.
The bathroom and the kitchen are the two most functional rooms in the home. They are also the two rooms that can make or break the sale of a property. Due to the cost of a complete bathroom renovation, an outdated bathroom is likely to put off potential buyers. It is, however, possible to transform your bathroom without a complete refit. Whether you're planning on selling or not, giving the bathroom a makeover will create a fresh new space that encourages relaxation.
Instructions
1. Research the estimated costs for your bathroom makeover. This allows you to determine the total cost of the project. According to Homewyse.com, you should limit the total cost of the project to 1.5 percent of the home's total value, after the project is completed.
2. Determine the color scheme and style of the bathroom. If you plan to sell the property, opt for a neutral color scheme. Neutrals are considered "inoffensive" colors -- meaning they rarely produce a strong negative reaction. Not everyone will appreciate bold, strong colors. While one person may love red, another may hate it. Neutrals solve this problem.
3. Maintain the same overall style in the bathroom as the rest of the house. If your house is minimal and modern, an ornate and elaborate vintage-style bathroom will look out of place, and vice versa.
4. Include flexible lighting in your makeover. While you want good, strong light for activities such as putting on makeup and shaving, a softer light is required for a relaxing soak in the tub. This can be achieved without extensive work by adding an item such as a bathroom mirror light.
5. Determine where you can save money and still update and alter the look of the bathroom. For example: Repaint the tiles instead of replacing them; reglaze the tub rather than purchasing a new one; and regrout to create a fresh new look.
6. Draw a simple floor plan of the bathroom on graph paper and mark down the position of the door, windows and fixtures. This allows you to work out exactly what space you have available.
7. Use your floor plan to calculate if you have the space for upgrading part or all of the bathroom suite. If you have dead space on both sides of the sink, for example, a double sink is useful as well as appealing to potential buyers. If the budget does not stretch to a new suite, replacing the faucets will make a huge difference to the bathroom without making a huge dent in the allocated budget.
8. Aim to add as much built-in storage as possible. This negates the need for free-standing storage and clears surfaces for a clutter-free look. If built-in storage is not an option due to lack of space or monetary restrictions, plan to replace or repaint cabinet doors and fit new handles.
9. Update an old-fashioned bathroom by replacing dated items with more modern alternatives. Replace the radiator with a heated towel rail, for example.
You can bring the quiet elegance of a chandelier to tabletop lighting designs without breaking the bank. A chandelier lamp features the pendulous, dangling crystals of a large chandelier instead of a traditional lamp shade. These lamps can be expensive to purchase, but you can make one using a simple, inexpensive lamp shade and a few supplies that are available at most craft stores.
Instructions
1. Remove the paper shade from the frame of the lamp shade. leave the center apparatus that attaches to the lamp with the top loop still intact. The bottom loop, which is no longer needed, can be discarded.
2. Pass a 12-inch length of fishing line through a bead. Tie the line in a knot around the bead and place a dab of hot glue on the knot to keep it secure. Continue to thread clear beads onto the line, catching the tail of the line by the knot inside the first few beads to disguise it. Thread the beads until two inches of line are left.
3. Tie the line onto the lamp shade's top wire hoop and secure the knot with a dab of hot glue. Trim the excess line. Continue stringing and hanging the beaded lines until the entire hoop is covered in dangles.
4. Use hot glue to affix beads around the outside perimeter of the hoop. This will add a decorative finish while disguising the hoop and knotted fishing line.
5. Place the shade on the lamp. Ensure that the beads do not touch the light bulb inside the lamp, then turn it on and enjoy the ambience.
Tags: lamp shade, fishing line, line knot, This will
You can fit your ceiling light with a pull-chain switch.
If you read in bed before going to sleep and don't want to keep getting up to turn a light on the ceiling on and off, it is easy to add a pull chain to the fixture. Doing so requires you to remove the fixture, drill a hole to screw on a pull switch and wire the black wires through the switch. You won't need many tools, and it will probably take you less than an hour to complete the project.
Instructions
1. Turn off the power to the light switch at the circuit breaker.
2. Take the light fixture off of the ceiling, remove the wire connectors from the wires and untwist the wires.
3. Unscrew the bulb from the fixture and pull the bulb socket free. Remove the top of the socket where the wires enter either by unscrewing a screw or by pulling off the top of the socket, depending on the design of your fixture.
4. Determine where the pull-switch will fit inside the socket and drill a hole large enough for the nut attachment of the switch to fit through. Pass the chain through the hole and tighten the switch to the socket with the nut provided.
5. Pass both black wires of the switch through the hole. Replace the top of the socket, either pushing or screwing it into place.
6. Twist one of the black wires from the switch with the black wire from the light fixture and the other with the black wire from the house wiring. Twist the white wires together as they were before. Twist all wires clockwise and cap each connection. Twist the ground wires together as they were before.
7. Screw the light fixture back into place on the electrical box and restore power to the switch.
Tags: black wires, light fixture, black wire, black wire from, drill hole, into place
The ceiling must bear the weight and shock of a heavy bag.
Rarely is mounting a punching bag in the home as certain as attaching it to a conveniently placed steel support beam, especially as so few modern houses are so robustly built. The ceiling of your home gym might be made of flimsy dry wall or may have exposed wood joists, but either way you need to be certain that the ceiling can support the weight and battering of a punching bag before you hang one. The best scenario would be a solid exposed beam. Making a mistake about the sturdiness of your ceiling could pull the ceiling down and potentially undermine the structural soundness of your house.
Instructions
1. Look at the ceiling where you want to mount the punching bag and draw up a list of mounting options for the designs and materials you are working with. If you have exposed wood joists in the ceiling, you can drill a hole in one joist or use a rafter hanger attached to two joists. For a plywood ceiling, you can attach an eye-loop hanger with wood screws, but for a drywall ceiling you must use drywall anchors and screws or molly bolts instead. Alternately, you could drill through a drywall ceiling and mount an eye-loop screw into a wood joist behind it.
2. Calculate how much weight each of your mounting options can support, adjusting for the ceiling material. If you have an eye-loop hanger with four screw holes held into a drywall ceiling by 30-lb. drywall anchors, then the hanger should support 120 lbs., but drywall is a brittle material. That might be enough for a very small heavy bag or a double-end bag, but not for a midsize or large heavy bag. The same mount in plywood, on the other hand, could handle more weight and shock.
3. Increase the listed weight of the punching bag to provide a margin for the wear and tear value of shock on the ceiling mount, since punching bags shake with every blow. For a heavy bag, increase the weight by between 1/3 and 1/2. For a double-end bag, which weighs very little but gyrates wildly, double or triple the weight.
4. Compare your calculations of how much weight and shock the heavy bag will place on the ceiling mount against your list of ceiling mounting options. This will tell you if your ceiling can support the heavy bag you want to hang from it.
Kitchen hardware and lighting make an impact on the feel of the space.
If you're remodeling an existing bathroom or kitchen or building a new one, the sheer number of design decisions you have to make might seem overwhelming. When you've already selected your faucet and cabinet hardware, you'll need to choose lighting with a hardware finish that complements it. Whether that lighting hardware must match the existing hardware depends on the look you're trying to achieve.
Similar Colored Metals
If your existing faucet and cabinet hardware are a similar color to the lighting you hope to use, it can often flow seamlessly and may not even be noticeable because of the visual distance between the two. For example, the difference between brushed nickel faucets and chrome light fixtures will be difficult to discern. In this case, you can feel comfortable not exactly matching the two types of hardware.
Different Colored Metals
If your lighting is a very different color from your existing faucet and cabinet hardware -- for example, your lighting is oil-rubbed bronze but your faucet is chrome -- you'll need to tread more carefully. The two colors should complement each other and not clash. For example, do not mix gold-toned brass and chrome. However, a matte oil-rubbed bronze and brushed nickel can work together nicely, giving the room a layered, interesting look.
Look of Your Room
Determine the feeling you want in your room. If you want your entire home to feel cohesive and unified, match the hardware finishes with the lighting. However, if you'd prefer a layered or a bohemian look, choosing a variety of finishes might work best in your home.
Other Considerations
Even among certain silver metals, some finishes can cast varied lights. For example, chrome can appear blue or white next to warmer nickel colors. Bring home a sample of your finishes, and compare them to in the room and the lighting situation where you'll use them most often. If you are comfortable with how they look, feel free to proceed. What's most important is how you feel in your space; you won't break any design rules by combining the metals.
Tags: cabinet hardware, faucet cabinet, faucet cabinet hardware, brushed nickel, Colored Metals, Colored Metals your, each other
Recessed lighting can add a sleek and modern look to a home or office, but it can also involve a little more work when it comes time to remove it. The very design of the lighting means that the process for removing it is hidden and not obvious. Nevertheless, the method for removing them is not difficult.
Instructions
1. Turn off the power to the fixture at the breaker box in order to prevent electrical shock.
2. Place the stepladder under the light to be removed. Unscrew the light bulb and pull off any decorative trim or metal casing.
3. Use the screwdriver to loosen the screws that are inside the metal canister of the light. Then gently push the canister up into the ceiling and place it off to the side and out of the way on the ceiling floor.
4. Take off the cover plate to the wire connection box, remove the plastic screw-on connectors from the wires, and then disconnect them.
5. Remove the screw that is holding the armored cable wire to the wire connection box and grab the canister from the ceiling floor. Then simply lower it through the hole.
If you have an old electrical box in your ceiling that you no longer use, you probably want to patch the area to hide the box. This is a simple project for any homeowner and does not require any knowledge about drywall. A mesh patch kit works well for this project. Purchase one of these kits from your local hardware store.
Instructions
1. Turn off power to the electrical box from the power supply source. Set up a ladder underneath the electrical box. Use a circuit tester to ensure that no power is being supplied to the electrical wires.
2. Back out the screws securing the light fixture or electrical outlet to the electrical box. Remove the wire nuts that secure the electrical wires' connection. Locate where the wiring for the electrical box starts. Pull the wires back to their starting point and disconnect them. Throw the wires away.
3. Wipe the ceiling surrounding the electrical box with a damp paper towel to clean off all the dust and dirt. Allow the area to completely dry.
4. Test the mesh patch over the hole. You need to use a patch that extends at least one inch past the hole on all four sides. Peel the paper backing off the mesh patch. Center the patch over the hole and press it onto the ceiling.
5. Scoop up some drywall compound with a 4-inch putty knife. Spread the compound over the mesh patch and two to three inches beyond it. Aim to make the compound as smooth and even as possible. Wait two to three hours for the compound to dry.
6. Repeat Step 5 to apply a second layer of joint compound over the first layer. Allow the second layer to dry. Use a sanding sponge to smooth any ridges out of the compound and to blend the patched area into the surrounding ceiling.
7. Prime the patched area with an interior latex primer. Wait about one hour for the primer to dry before you paint the patched area to match the surrounding ceiling.
Tags: mesh patch, patched area, compound over, electrical wires, over hole, patch over, patch over hole
If installing new lights in a room which contains a ceiling fan, it is possible to piggy-back power from the ceiling fan. This power can then be routed through an independent wall switch and on to the light fixture(s). If wired properly the ceiling fan will operate completely independently from the new switch and lights. Also, the electrical controls for the ceiling fan will have no effect on the new light(s).
Instructions
1. Turn off all power to the area. This is best done at the circuit breaker panel to insure all power is turned off. This is more reliable than relying on a wall switch which can be mistakenly turned back on before work is completed. Test the circuit to be certain power is indeed off before starting work.
2. Remove the ceiling fan motor cover. Use the screw driver to loosen the cover and expose the wiring harness beneath. There will be a power wire coming in from the attic. This wire should contain a black, white, green and red wire. The green wire may be a bare copper wire and is the ground wire. These wires will be connected to a black and white wire powering the fan motor. There will also be a third wire, normally blue which will power any light kit mounted on the fan. The should be connected to the red power wire. Locate all of these wires before continuing.
3. Route the wire from the new light fixtures and switch to the ceiling fan. The wire should go from the ceiling fan, to the wall switch, then on to the light fixtures. This wire should also contain a white, black, and green/bare wire. Tie all the white wires together and secure them with a wire nut. Do the same with the ground wires. Leave the existing black wires as they are. Tie the new black wire in with the blue and red wire, securing them with a wire nut. Be certain no bare wire is exposed beneath the wire nut.
4. Replace the fan motor cover, being certain all wiring is carefully tucked inside. With the fan back together turn the power back on and test all elements of the circuit. The fan should operate as before and the new wall switch should operate the new light fixtures without affecting the ceiling fan operation.
Tags: wall switch, wire should, light fixtures, bare wire, black white, blue wire
Design a stairwell ceiling based on the height available for use.
Design a ceiling for a stairwell using the measurements on a blueprint of the soon-to-be stairwell or by measuring the existing area. A height measurement is required from the top of a step to the ceiling directly above the measuring point. The normal distance from the floor to a stairwell ceiling is between 7 and 8 feet. A minimum distance of 12 feet is required from the steps to the ceiling to create a three-dimensional design. Keep the height requirement in mind when designing a stairwell ceiling.
Instructions
1. Look through home improvement, home decorating and home construction magazines. Find pictures of stairwell ceilings that are possibilities.
2. Search the Internet for ceiling designs for stairwells. Print off pictures of any designs you like.
3. Look at the blueprint of the stairwell and find the measurements of the stairwell ceiling. If you don't have a blueprint, take measurements of an existing stairwell with a tape measure. Use the dimensions to complete a drawing of the area.
4. Draw out the ceiling design you have chosen to use. Use graph paper to get the dimensions correct. Determine the dimension significance of each square. Use either the blueprint dimensions or the measurements taken of the area. Example: One graph paper square is equivalent to 6 inches. This dimension will work for most stairwells. Another alternative is to make one graph paper square equivalent to 1 foot.
Tags: graph paper, graph paper square, paper square, paper square equivalent, required from, square equivalent
A kitchen with high ceilings offers both challenges and opportunities.
Kitchens with high ceilings have a lot of potential for creative decorating. The high ceilings create a sense of space, making the room seem larger than it actually is. They also provide wall space for extensive cabinets, art, and windows. In addition, the ceilings themselves may be suitable for the addition of skylights.
Extra Cabinets
One advantage of high ceilings is that extra cabinet space can be incorporated without using up more horizontal area. Higher cabinets can be installed above existing cabinets. Because these higher cabinets will not be as conveniently accessed, they can be used to store less frequently used items. A simple footstool can be kept in a kitchen closet for accessing the upper cabinets when needed. Depending on the height of the ceiling, the cabinets can be extended all the way up to meet the ceiling, or they can be built in with a space between their tops and the ceiling. This shelf space can be used decoratively by placing baskets, art, or collectibles on it.
Pot Hangers
If the kitchen has an island, the addition of a cast iron pot hanger that hangs from the high ceiling over the center island is a great feature for any kitchen. In addition to being practical and making pots and pans easily accessible, the visual interest of the copper and cast iron pots and pans creates a visual image that is in keeping with an informal aesthetic.
High Windows
To give the kitchen a more bright and open feel and a better view, existing windows can be replaced by taller windows that reach farther up toward the high ceiling. Since light nearly always enters a room at an downward angle, high windows enable light to more directly illuminate a room for a longer portion of the day. This is particularly important in a kitchen, which is frequently being used in mornings and evenings when direct sunlight is at a premium.
Large Art
High ceilings mean high walls, and high walls can be a great place to hang large and dramatic works of art. Select a single work of art that is in keeping with the decor of the kitchen, and is large enough to dominate the wall on which it will be hung. Abstract painting is often ideal for this purpose, as it creates a background feel for the activity in the kitchen, without presenting competing subject matter.
Tags: high ceilings, cast iron, high ceiling, high walls, keeping with, pots pans, that keeping
Your home can be your castle with an artistic ceiling finish.
The ceiling is easy to forget when designing a room. It's white; it's up there; it's invisible. But a ceiling with architectural detail or one with problems or one that doesn't quite measure up can benefit from a new finish. When you need something more ambitious than white or beige, borrow some ideas from interior design experts to transform your ceiling.
Decorative Painted Ceilings
No reason exists as to why a ceiling shouldn't be just as important as a wall in a room. If the ceiling has architectural features like a dome, moldings or a central medallion, use decorative finishes to highlight the design. Cloud-painted ceilings can be as simple or realistic as the painter's imagination and ability, and they bring a ceiling alive. Faux glazing the ceiling in several layers of color turns a room into a jewel box. Stencils create the impression of a medallion or draw attention to one that anchors a chandelier or ceiling fan. A stencilled design around the border of a high ceiling can be whimsical in a child's room or regal in a library or living room. Gilding is rich and palatial in a formal living or dining room. Venetian plaster romanticizes a room, especially when the ceiling is then painted an interesting color over the plaster finish.
Faux Ceiling Height Techniques
When the ceiling is too high or too low, create the illusion of its opposite with paint. A low ceiling makes a room seem dark and oppressive but white or light paint that flows from the upper walls over the ceiling draws the eye upward with no fixed stopping point. Crown molding that is painted the same color as the walls makes them seem taller and the ceiling farther away. Walls above a chair rail should be painted the same color and finish as the ceiling. And a pale blue ceiling will feel as endless as the sky. To "lower" a ceiling that is lost in the stratosphere, paint it a darker color than the walls. Double the effect by extending the ceiling paint one foot down the walls, measuring and marking carefully so the border is exactly even. Decorative ceilings are too visual to ignore and bring the ceiling closer to the viewer.
Popcorn and Textured Ceilings
Textured ceilings are one effective way to disguise a flawed ceiling surface, avoid replacing a visually distressed ceiling, provide some noise insulation and make a high ceiling seem lower. They no longer add value to a home but if you aren't selling and you like the look, consider a textured popcorn ceiling and sprinkle it while the finish is still wet with gold, silver or crystal flakes for extra shine. If popcorn is too yesterday for you, a venetian plaster finish will hide a less-than-perfect ceiling as will orange peel or knock-down texture-adding techniques.
If your ceiling light is operating intermittently, or not at all, it may be necessary to rewire it. This doesn't have to be a difficult job, and if it is done properly, you can continue to use the light for many years. Follow a few simple steps and precautions, and you'll have your ceiling light working great in just a little while.
Instructions
1. Examine the wiring connections on your ceiling light. You'll first need to turn off the power leading to this lighting circuit. Never work on a live electrical circuit. With the power off, remove the cover to the light, and unscrew the light bulb. You'll find several screws or bolts connecting the base of the lighting fixture to the gang box in the ceiling.
2. Loosen these screws, and the light fixture's base will come free of the gang box. Keep a hand on the base and lower it down so you can examine the wiring connections between the house wiring and the light fixture. If they are frayed or loose, you'll need to rewire the ceiling light.
3. Disconnect the old wiring, and examine the wiring of the ceiling light. If it is in good shape--insulation intact and with no breaks in the wiring--you can use it. If the ceiling light's wiring is bad, you may want to consider replacing the lighting fixture.
If you've chosen to simply rewire the existing ceiling light, clean the stripped end of the wiring of any old insulation or tape. If necessary, use your wire cutters and strip back the wire 1 1/4 inches to provide new clean wire. Repeat the process with the house wiring, ensuring that you have clean wire to work with.
4. Connect the wires (black to black, white to white, and green to green) with wire nuts. Add a piece of electrical tape to the base of each wire nut for extra security. Before reattaching the ceiling light fixture to the ceiling, replace the light bulb, turn on the circuit, and test the light. If everything works properly, turn off the circuit and reattach the fixture to the ceiling, replace the bulb and cover, and enjoy the fruits of your handiwork.
Tags: ceiling light, , light fixture, your ceiling, your ceiling light, ceiling replace
Vessel sinks are popular in bathroom remodels because of their elegant and modern look. Rather than sit flush with the bath vanity's counter top, the bowl is completely exposed all around, and only the drain pipe is concealed. Installing a vessel sink is fairly simple. The job requires few tools and can be done within an hour.
Instructions
1. Turn the water off to the bathroom or to the house, whichever option is applicable.
2. Mark the location where the vessel sink and the faucet will be installed on the bath vanity with a pencil. For best results, trace a line around both the faucet and on the vanity.
3. Put on goggles and drill a hole into the vanity to fit the faucet. Choose a hole saw bit that matches the size of the faucet pipe.
4. Spread a bead of caulk around the lip of the drilled faucet hole. Fit the faucet into place on the caulk bead and loosely secure it with a retaining ring and washer. Go under the vanity and pull the water supply line up to the faucet stem. Connect the water line to the faucet stem, turning it first by hand, then tightening with a wrench
5. Drill a 1 3/4-inch hole into the vanity top with a hole saw bit. Check your vessel sink's specifications to ensure a 1 3/4 inch hole is an appropriate size.
6. Spread a bead of caulk around the lip of the drilled hole. Place a washer over the drain stem on the vessel sink, then loosely fasten the retaining ring. Fit the vessel sink's drain stem into the hole in the vanity. Tighten the retaining ring at the base of the vessel sink with a wrench.
7. Connect the P-trap underneath the vanity to the vessel sink drain, tightening down with a wrench. Turn the water supply back on and turn on the vessel sink. Observe it for a few moments, monitoring for leaks. If any are present, tighten the water and/or drain lines or add more caulk, whichever is applicable.
Tags: vessel sink, retaining ring, with wrench, around drilled, bath vanity, bead caulk, bead caulk around
Polystyrene tiles are typically installed to ceilings in both residential and commercial structures. The tiles are molded in a variety of styles, from featureless flat surfaces to highly decorative patterns. Polystyrene tiles are easily maintained, cleaned with soap and water, and can be installed directly to the ceiling using an adhesive or to a suspended grid that makes changing the tiles quick and easy. You can install the tiles yourself, saving money by going the DIY route. With a bit of planning the installation can be completed with little difficulty and with no previous tile installation experience.
Adhesive Installation
While polystyrene tiles can be installed to a textured ceiling, it's best to have as flat a surface as can be created to maximize the adhesive holding the tile to the ceiling. For a moderately flat ceiling surface, remove any loose materials from a textured ceiling by sweeping away at the ceiling with a broom. This is especially useful when you're installing to a popcorn ceiling. Place a tarp under the ceiling before sweeping to catch the materials for easy disposal. Exercise caution when dealing with texture applied to your ceiling before 1980 as it may contain asbestos and should be tested prior to removing. For a completely flat ceiling, you can install drywall to the existing ceiling, applying mortar to the drywall and pressing it firmly to the ceiling's surface. Not only will this provide you with a flat surface, it will also guarantee you a level one, easing the placement of the tiles.
Turn off the electricity flowing to the room and remove any lights or other fixtures in your ceiling. It's best to begin placing the tile in the center of the room. Chalk a line from the center of each set of opposing walls to create a cross marking your room's center. Use one of the angles formed from the crossing lines to corner your first polystyrene tile. Place a compatible adhesive on the rear of the tile and then press the tile firmly to the ceiling. A small amount of adhesive should do the job, but if the ceiling is especially textured, add more as needed. Using the lines as a guide, continue to place the ceiling tiles, covering one half of the room before continuing with the second half. Cut the tiles as needed to fit around ceiling fixtures, and at the edges of the ceiling cut and place partial tiles. Use a utility knife for making tile cuts, with a straight edge to cut the tiles cleanly.
Suspended Ceiling Installation
Installing your polystyrene tiles in a suspended ceiling grid can add to your ceiling tile options. By placing the tiles in a grid, you can remove them quickly and replace them with another tile design to change the looks of your ceiling. Use multiple tiles in a pattern and easily change the pattern by changing various tile locations. Change the tiles by sliding the existing tile out of the grid and sliding the replacement tile in. The heavy work involved in a suspended ceiling installation for your polystyrene tiles is mounting the metal grid that holds the tiles in place.
Mount the grid by suspending a series of gridwork rails, with ledges in which tile edges are placed from the ceiling. Purchase the grid system from a home improvement store. It should come with everything you need to install a grid, including ceiling hooks, wall mounts and rails. Install the grid by placing the wall mount rails around the edge of the room at the desired ceiling height. You'll have to rewire the fixtures, changing existing light fixtures for tile based ones that can be slid into place in your grid. Be sure to cut the power to the room before doing the rewiring. Suspend the grid rails from the ceiling using hooks and wires to lower the grid rails to the desired ceiling height. The grid rails should extend the length of your room in rows spaced to hold the tile sizes of your choice. Place t-bars connecting the lines of rails to finishing creating the actual grid that holds the tiles. Once the grid has been placed, slip in the polystyrene tiles and ceiling fixtures for an easily modifiable suspended ceiling.
Charming bathrooms are not just a thing of the past. A bathroom needs to be functional but that doesn't mean that it can't be charming. If you would like to decorate your bathroom in a cottage style décor motif, then apply these simple techniques to your design. To obtain a true cottage style bathroom theme, you have to be able to coordinate your decorative accessories in a way that is simple and country like. A cottage bathroom must have these three elements that stay true to the unifying motif: cottage prints, rustic furniture, and ornate accessories. For some creative ideas, as seen on this page, visit Target.com.
Instructions
1. Cottage Prints Play a Big Role
Cottage prints and country style fabrics play a big role in bathroom design. Floral, striped, natural, and animal themes in soft pastel colors like white, pink, green and yellow provide softness and natural beauty for a cottage themed bathroom. Charming cottage bathroom design requires the use of soft and subdued prints to enhance the overall visual appeal. These country motifs can be used in a shower curtain or sink skirt design that is reminiscent of days spent in a rustic cottage. Coordinating patterned wallpaper or faux painting can also be used to emphasize the soft and natural elements of a cottage bathroom.
2. Rustic Furniture Adds Texture and Style
A charming cottage bathroom will have a completed look if small pieces of rustic furniture are added to the space. For example, a small decoupage shelf, rustic linen cabinet, or vintage vanity can all add texture and style to the bathroom. The visual appeal of cottage bathroom design rests on its shabby chic decorative elements. To add to the texture of a cottage bathroom, you can slightly distress the wood on a small vanity or medicine cabinet to make it look rustic and authentic. The simple addition of rustic furniture will solidify the cottage decorative appeal in your bathroom. JCPenney.com, as viewed on this page, can provide you with rustic decorating accessories.
3. Ornate Accessories Bring it all Home
Cottage bathroom design just wouldn't be the same without a few ornate accessories to unify the look. Brass sink accessories like a soap dispenser or toothbrush holder can add an element of cottage charm to the room. A colorful display of flowers in a translucent vase, a silvery beaded clock, and charming hand towels will bring the entire decorative theme to completion. A cottage style bathroom is simple, rustic, elegant, and most of all totally charming. Applying these simple techniques will allow you to create a cottage themed bathroom that is feminine and ornately designed.
Adding a single red rose is a simple way to decorate hanging bathroom towels.
Hanging bathroom towels can be functional, such as for drying hands, or purely decorative. Either way, simply hanging the towels can look attractive, though this can give off a plain, common or boring look and feel. Decorate your hanging towels for a fresh take on bathroom decor to complement your decorating style and the colors and theme in your bathroom. The type of decorations you use should look natural when paired with the colors, design and texture of your bathroom towels and decor.
Instructions
1. Tie the towels with a rubber band and decoration. For example, use fancy-looking tassels for an elegant bathroom, raffia for a rustic bathroom or any material that fits in with the decor. Other ideas include beads, strings of seashells or ribbon. Each towel can have its own tie, or tie two hanging towels together with a single decoration.
2. Paint your own design on your hanging towels with fabric paint. You can write your initials, a monogram or an inspirational word or quote. Alternatively, label the towels with the names of your family members. Draw designs if you're artistically able, such as flowers, seashells or geometric patterns.
3. Add silk flowers to the hanging towels. Use a silk flower stem to wrap around the towels or lay a large silk flower on top of the hanging towels. Tuck the flower into the tie if you're tying a decorative tie onto the towels.
4. Sew or glue a border around the towels. Use fabric adhesive if you can't or don't want to sew. Lace, ruffles, ribbon or a busy print can serve as a border around the hanging towels.
5. Display the towels in a decorative manner. For example, you could fold two towels into thirds the long way, then bind the two ends of the towels on top of the towel bar with a rubber band and a decorative tie. Roll up a second towel to fit in the loop created by the hanging towel. Alternatively, fold the bottom of a hand towel two-thirds of the way up, then fold each edge into the middle on the opposite side. Tuck the two ends into each other and hang the with the other side facing outward. There will be a pocket in the towel that you can tuck lightweight decorations in.
Tags: hanging towels, bathroom towels, towels with, around towels, border around, hand towel