Suspended Ceilings Installation

Finish a basement remodel project with a suspended ceiling.

Suspended ceiling installation is much quicker and easier than drywall ceiling installation. Suspended ceilings are built using a grid of tiles. Plan to build the grid with all partial tiles around the room's perimeter and full tiles in the remaining grid openings, giving the ceiling a professionally-installed look. Before you begin this project, draw a scaled version of the room on a piece of paper. Configure the ceiling grid on the paper, and use it a blueprint for installing the ceiling.

Instructions

1. Measure 4 to 6 inches down from the ceiling joists' bottom edge and make a light pencil mark on the wall. This indicates the suspended ceiling's height. If you don't plan to install lighting in your ceiling, measuring 4 inches down from the joists is enough. Measure 6 inches down to allow room for lighting fixtures. Move a few feet over and measure 4 to 6 inches down again. Put a laser level in the center of the room and line it up so it intersects the two pencil marks.

2. Run a stud finder along the laser line to locate each of the wall studs and mark them with a pencil. Position a piece of perimeter molding against one wall. Line up the molding's top edge with the laser line. Hammer 6d nails through the molding and into each marked wall stud to secure the perimeter molding in place. Repeat on the three remaining walls.

3. Use the blueprint you created and measure the correct distance away from one of the moldings running perpendicular to the ceiling joists. This will indicate the first main runner's placement and will probably house a partial tile. Measure across the room to locate the next main runner's placement. Continue until you have marked each main runner. Double check that the final main runner is the appropriate distance away from the molding, as you had figured in the blueprint.

4. Snap a chalk line across the ceiling joists to mark each main runner's placement on each joist. Drill a 1/8-inch pilot hole into each third joist along each chalk line. Screw a small eyebolt into each pilot hole. Cut a piece of 16-gauge hanger wire with tin snips for each eyebolt. Make the wire approximately 6 inches longer than the distance between the molding and the ceiling joists

5. Feed one wire 3 inches into the first eyebolt. Bend the wire down and wrap it around itself at least three times. Repeat with the remaining wires and eyebolts. Aim a laser level across the room. Line up the laser with the perimeter molding's bottom edge. Bend each wire where the laser hits it to form an L.

6. Refer to your blueprint to determine the width of the first perimeter grid width against one of the molding's running parallel with the ceiling joists. Hook your tape measure into the first cross tee slot and measure that distance toward the main runner's end. Cut the main runner at this mark with tin snips.

7. Lift a main runner up to the ceiling. Rest its end on the perimeter molding and line it up underneath the first snapped chalk line. Insert each bent wire into the nearest hole in the main runner's top edge. Bend each wire up and wrap it around itself three times. Repeat this step for the remaining chalk lines and hanger wires.

8. Space cross tees every two feet between the main runners. The cross tees' end tabs fit into the main runner's side slots. Push until they snap into place. If you have partial tiles around the perimeter, cut the cross tees to fit between the main runner and the molding. Rest the cut end on the molding's lip and insert the other end into the main runner's side slot.

9. Lift the ceiling tiles above the ceiling grid and lower them into place. Tilt the tiles slightly to fit them through the grid openings. Cut the perimeter tiles to fit into the smaller grid openings with a utility knife. Use a level as a straight edge to achieve a straight cut. If you want to install recessed lighting above the suspended ceiling, determine which tiles will have a light above them. Trace the light fixture's opening onto a piece of cardboard. Cut the template out with scissors and use it to cut circles out of the tiles using a utility knife.

Tags: main runner, ceiling joists, inches down, perimeter molding, chalk line, cross tees, grid openings

Update A 1950s Bathroom

Your house hasn't been decorated since your parents bought it in the 1950s. It was adorable then, but it has lost luster over the years. Now that it's time to update, the bathroom is a good place to start. With some hard work and attention to detail, you can update that 1950s bathroom.

Instructions

1. Tone down the color. Bathrooms of the 1950s are notorious for bright pink or blue tile and colored toilets and sinks. These elements are what dates the room. When you decorate the bathroom in a more modern style, you need to tone down the colors to neutrals, whites or beiges. No one buys a blue toilet anymore.

2. Upgrade the sink. Take that 1950s sink right off the wall with its two front legs and replace it with a regular bathroom vanity. Vanities come in a variety of sizes now to fit even the smallest bathroom. A vanity and sink top will provide a convenient "work station" in the bathroom and some surface area to decorate. Add an attractive soap dispenser and tissue box to the counter top.

3. Dismantle the medicine cabinet. That old metal cabinet set halfway into the wall above the sink is now rusty and gross, no longer a hygienic place to store your toothbrush. Pull it right out of the wall and fill in the hole. Hang a decorative mirror there, and store your toothbrush in the drawer of the vanity. You could also buy a decorative toothbrush holder for the counter top, depending on how much space you have.

4. Paint the walls. A fresh coat of paint will help upgrade your 1950s bathroom. Stick with neutral colors to match your new fixtures.

Tags: bathroom vanity, right wall, store your, store your toothbrush, that 1950s

Contemporary Living Room Design Ideas

Contemporary designs incorporate clean lines and minimal ornamentation.

Contemporary design "is characterized by clean lines and smooth surfaces without intricate details," according to HomeOwner.net. Some may equate contemporary design with cold, uninviting interiors of stark black or white, but today's contemporary interiors embody livability and honest-to-goodness warmth. Monochromatic color schemes, water walls and colorful accents can enhance the look of your contemporary living room.

Water Wall

A water wall can add drama, elegance and an element of nature to your living room. A water wall is a wall element that typically involves cascading water enclosed by two panels. The panels come in materials such as glass and steel in a variety of finishes, for example, textured, powder-coated, or glossy. The rear panel, over which the water flows, is often a metallic finish in colors such as black, slate, gold, or silver. Like a more traditional waterfall, the water wall makes a design statement while adding an air of tranquility, as well as movement, to a space. A water wall may be an appropriate addition above a fireplace instead of wall art. It can also be used in place of a fireplace as a focal point of living room design. Lighting is an integral element of most water wall designs. Work with your water wall designer, and perhaps with an interior designer, to choose lighting that will best display this decorative element, while adequately incorporating it into your living room design. Water walls are relatively high-end and, as of 2010, can run into the tens of thousands of U.S. dollars. You can find them at establishments that design and/or sell large, decorative water elements.

Monochromatic Color Scheme

This design boasts shades of white with black and gray accents.

One of the features of contemporary design is simplicity. The monochromatic color scheme is one of the simplest and easiest to implement. Choose a color that will promote the mood you desire: for example, blue is a "calm, restful" color, while brown adds a sense of stability to a space, according to PrecisionIntermedia.com. A monochromatic blue living room design might include pale blue walls with powder blue floor coverings and midnight blue window coverings. A brown-family scheme might include ecru walls, beige and chocolate furnishings and bisque floor coverings.

Colorful Accents

This vibrant sectional is a bold example of color in an otherwise neutral space.

Many contemporary living room designs include a muted color palette. A strong dash of color, such as orange, purple or fuchsia, can add vibrant energy and modern drama to your living room. Onto your black or deep-brown sofa, throw print or solid-color pillows of bright orange, plum or emerald. Add color to your walls via boldly colored wall hangings or wall art. Brightly colored lampshades, vases or other decorative objects can also add a spark to the room. If you are adventuresome, you can even go for seating with brightly colored upholstery.

Tags: living room, living room design, room design, water wall, water wall, your living

Attach Ceiling Medallions

Ceiling medallions were originally designed to protect the ceiling from candle burns.

Ceiling medallions add a touch of class and elegance to any home. They can be paired with a lovely chandelier or stand alone to provide a focal point in what would otherwise be a plain and boring area. Installation of the medallion itself is rather simple for anyone familiar with tools, but if you choose to pair the medallion with a chandelier then the wiring may prove a challenge.

Instructions

1. Turn off power to the fixture at the breaker, if you are attaching a medallion above a light fixture. Remove the light fixture from the ceiling and unscrew the fixture's ceiling bracket.

2. Clean the ceiling area with a sponge and dish soap. Remove all dust, dirt and debris as well as any chipped paint or leftover caulk from the light fixture.

3. Mark and cut the medallion's center so wires can pass through, if you are installing a light fixture as well. If the medallion already has a hole, ensure it is big enough to allow access to the electrical box. Dry fit the entire assembly, making sure wires are long enough to reach the fixture.

4. Paint the medallion to match the ceiling or accentuate details, if desired. Allow the medallion to dry completely before attempting to attach it to the ceiling.

5. Apply construction adhesive to the back side -- not the decorated side -- of the medallion. The adhesive should be spread generously, but not enough that it will ooze over the ceiling medallion's edges. Place the medallion on the ceiling and secure it with screws. Apply caulk around the edge of the medallion to seal it against the ceiling. Cover any holes in the medallion with spackling paste.

6. Touch up any paint issues once the caulk and adhesive have dried. Attach the light fixture.

Tags: light fixture, Ceiling medallions, medallion with

Arrange Your Room Like An Interior Designer

Arrange Your Room Like an Interior Designer

You visit model homes for 'new design ideas', you watch various home-inspired reality shows on T.V., and you've thought about hiring a professional interior designer to help you make some sense out of your clutter, artwork and furniture so that your living space looks 'professionally designed'. Before you flip through those yellow pages, read this article for some simple tricks that will make any room in your home look like it was designed by a pro!

Instructions

1. You've repainted those stark white walls with a creamy sand beige to add some warmth...you've steam cleaned the carpets and polished the hardwood floors...now it's time to start arranging furniture and artwork and 'other stuff'. First rule of thumb; less is often more. Just because you have a sofa, a love-seat, a chair, an ottoman, a coffee table and two large end tables DOESN'T mean you have to use everything at once. If the space is too crowded with all that stuff; either sell something, use it in another room or store it in the basement or attic or garage. Overly crowded rooms are a disaster for interior designers as they don't allow guests to 'breathe' or enjoy what is there. De-clutter the space if you can.

2. Find your focal point. Every room has to have a 'crowning feature' that acts as it's main source of interest. Fireplaces, built in bookshelves, French doors, large windows, or even a large piece of furniture or large piece of artwork can act as the focal point of a room. Find your focal piece or focal point and build the essence of your room around IT.

3. Know 'direct your traffic flow'. Invison your room and determine where you want your 'flow of traffic to walk'; imagine placing your furniture pieces in various spots and get the 'feel' of how the traffic will flow throughout the room. Are there uncomfortably tight squeezes? Are there dead ends that leave visitors with no outlets? Walk way areas need to be 24 to 30 inches wide at a minimum to make visitors feel 'welcome' and comfortable moving around in a room or area. The standard distances between soft seating areas (chairs, sofas, love seats, ottomans) and tables are apx 14 to 18 inches. This leaves room for the feet to be either placed onto the floor comfortably; or elevated to rest on the top of the coffee table while watching T.V. or carrying on conversation. Dining chairs need a minimum of 34 to 36 inches of 'pull out' room behind the chair to allow for someone to either sit down, or push the chair back to be excused from the dining table and standard swinging doors need 36-39 inches of 'swing space' into whatever room the door swings open into.

4. It's all in the placement. Place your furniture so that it faces the entrance of the room; no one feels comfortable sitting on a sofa with their back to the entryway or door. Face your sofas and chairs so that when a guest is seated, they are facing the entry to the room; it will make the room seem larger and more inviting to your guests. In very large rooms; angle sofas or love seats in the corners at a diagonal to create visual interest or pull sofas and chairs away from the walls 18 to 24 inches to create a cozy seating 'nook' in the center of the room. Lamps should be placed at a triangle type of setup--with the lamps placed on tables (or floor lamps set up) on the points of the triangle. If you only have 2 lamps, then use them at the two farthest ends of the triangle; not at one end and at the top point. Anchor the space with a large rug, even if you have carpet; a rug offers textural dimension and interest to the room.

5. If you think the quick little tips offered in this article might help you to plan or decorate your space like a professional interior designer would; or if you've got some extra tips to offer other ehow members; then please don't forget to add your comments before you leave this page! Thanks so much for reading and rating my work here on ehow!

Tags: focal point, Arrange Your, Arrange Your Room, coffee table, Find your

Removing Ceiling Light Fixtures

Whether you are painting a hallway ceiling or you just want to install more modern fixtures, before you can start either of of these projects, you will have to first remove the existing ceiling light fixtures. While it is considered an electrician's job, it really is quite simple, safe and easily accomplished by the do-it-yourselfer.

Keep the Site Clean

Before you begin, set a plastic drop cloth down on the floor below the fixture you will be removing. This will help to catch any plaster or dust that may fall during the removal.

Cut Away a Potential Problem

If your ceiling has been painted in the past and it has been done so with the light fixture in place, the paint may have glued the fixture to the ceiling. Take a sharp utility knife and score all the way around the base of the light fixture. This will prevent the existing paint from peeling away from the ceiling when you remove the fixture.

Your Ladder -- Size Matters

Use a ladder that is sized properly for the job. Make sure the ladder is tall enough so that you can comfortably work and are not standing on the top two rungs of the ladder. Position the ladder so that the light fixture is slightly in front of the ladder, not directly above it.

Watch Out!

Always wear eye protection when working on something above your head. Dust, dirt and the occasional bug will descend upon your face and body, so play it safe and protect your eyes.

Safety First

Always turn the power off at the circuit breaker. Do NOT rely on the wall switch. It is too easy for someone to accidentally flip the switch out of habit, even while you are directly in front of them on the ladder holding the wires.

Make It Easy

For most ceiling light fixtures, the screws that secure it to the junction box do not need to come out all the way. In most cases, you only have to loosen the screws. With the screws loosened, you can twist the fixture to align the screw heads with the larger holes on the fixture that allow the fixture to be removed from the bracket.

Safety Second

Before disconnecting the wires, test them with a touch-type voltage tester to be sure you have the correct breaker off.

The Wrap Up

After disconnecting the wires, tighten the wire connectors back on to the wires that are in the ceiling. If you have to, use smaller wire connectors for the single wires. Then, tuck them carefully back up into the ceiling box. This will allow you to turn the circuit back on without worry that the wires are exposed.

Tags: light fixture, This will, ceiling light, ceiling light fixtures, disconnecting wires, ladder that

Remodel A 1950s Bathroom

Remodel a 1950s Bathroom

There is nothing quite so wonderful as a vintage-style bathroom space to bring back memories or to enhance the overall retro style of your home. Bathrooms from the 1950s are especially beautiful rooms to decorate and are hallmarked by their use of pastel colors, chrome furniture, retro wallpaper patterns and fun, vintage accessories. Creating a mid-century modern bathroom is simple with a few decorating ideas and knowledge of this era for a bathroom that reflects 1950s charm and style.

Instructions

1. Hang 1950s wallpaper on the wall. Bathroom decor in the 1950s used design elements, such as wallpaper patterns in geometric shapes, sailboats and seashells, as a way to adorn wall areas. Incorporate this type of wallpaper into your retro space for a room with mid-century modern appeal.

2. Use linoleum as a flooring material. To further your 1950s bathroom design, choose vintage-inspired linoleum patterns as an appropriate floor covering. These types of floors are 1950s popular deisgn, so their use is a perfect choice for a vintage bathroom floor.

3. Think pink. Retro 1950s bathrooms use pink as a major decorating color in fixtures, such as tubs, sinks and wall tiles. Choose pink as a vintage design element in your bathroom and pair it with complementary black tile accents for a room that has maximum 1950s style.

4. Choose a large, pastel colored vanity. Incorporate a wonderful 1950s-inspired vanity by painting it a pastel shade of pink, seafoam green, or light blue. Add retro colored plastic or Lucite hardware and finish off the decor with a laminate countertop for a 1950s vintage flair.

5. Add chrome furniture. Chrome legs on a vanity, accessory tables and a chrome stool with vinyl seat are all ways to enhance your 1950s bathroom design. Select chrome accessories for an authentic mid-century modern look and feel to your space.

6. Accessorize with pastel-colored towels and shower curtain. Thick, fluffy towels in pastel shades of pink, blue, yellow, and green are beautiful to display on towel racks, shelves and tables in your 1950s bathroom. Complete the look with a gorgeous shower curtain in a matching pastel shade to your tub area for a finished feeling to your room.

7. Display vintage 1950s bath items. Accents, such as old powder cans, shaving accessories, vintage perfume bottles, retro plant containers and antique purses or hats are a wonderful way to create a true 1950s-style design to your bathroom and serve as an extraordinary final touch to your space.

Tags: mid-century modern, your 1950s, your 1950s bathroom, 1950s bathroom, 1950s bathroom design, bathroom design, chrome furniture

Metal Ceiling Care & Cleaning

Cleaning metal ceilings requires care, as you want to clean and disinfect the area without scratching or otherwise damaging the metal surface. Several retail cleaning products are available, but these products contain harsh ingredients that can be harmful to ourselves, our families, and our homes. Instead, consider using inexpensive, natural ingredients that work just as effectively as high-priced cleaning products.

Dish Detergent

Liquid dish detergent works as a mild cleaning agent that will clean and polish metal without leaving streaks or greasy residue behind. Mix two cups of water with 10 drops of liquid dish detergent, and clean the metal ceiling with a cloth or sponge. This will clean the metal surface without causing any damage.

Baking Soda

Baking soda works wonderfully as a mild cleaning agent that is safe for metal ceilings. In a bucket, mix two cups of water with 1/2 cup of baking soda. Clean the metal surface with a cloth or sponge, then wipe dry with a clean cloth to remove any baking soda residue. Baking soda works to clean and deodorize, leaving the area smelling and looking clean. To create a scented cleaning product, add one teaspoon of lemon juice to the baking soda mixture to make a citrus scented cleaning solution.

Vinegar

Vinegar works to both clean and disinfect, while also deodorizing metal surfaces. In a spray bottle, create a mixture of one part water and one part white vinegar. Spray the solution directly onto the metal ceiling, and polish with a cloth or sponge. Vinegar will thoroughly clean the area, kill bacteria, and leave behind a streak-free shine that will keep your metal ceiling looking its best.

Tags: baking soda, cloth sponge, metal surface, with cloth, with cloth sponge, agent that, Baking soda works

Bevel Cut Molding

Bevel Cut Molding

Molding such as baseboards and crown molding is joined together at corners to create a seamless appearance. An installer will cut molding at a beveled angle, then make a coping cut along the shape of the design to make the joints fit exactly. The initial bevel is cut at a 45 degree angle with the aid of a miter box. Use the same tools as professional trim carpenters to install molding with seamless joints.

Instructions

1. Measure the length of the molding needed to meet another piece in a corner. The first length of molding is commonly installed into an inside corner without any shaping. The 90 degree angle at the edge of the piece is simple butted against the corner. The piece that meets it must be shaped for a joint.

2. Mark the measured length with a pencil on the bottom edge of the molding. Crown molding is cut upside down with the smaller edge at the top.

3. Secure a miter box to a work bench with a vise or C-clamp. Place the molding into a miter box with the unfinished side against the back fence and the small bottom edge facing up.

4. Line up the pencil mark with the 45 degree angle slot in the fence that places the saw at an angle to cut more off the back than the front finished side. The finished side must retain the measured length.

5. Put on safety glasses or goggles. Slip the blade of a backsaw into the slot with the teeth down. Line the blade up with the pencil mark and hold the molding firmly with your free hand. Lift the handle of the backsaw to create a cutting angle. Draw the saw to yourself slowly to start the cut, then lean on the saw as you push downward to make the rest of the cut. Saw more slowly as the cut finishes to prevent splintering.

Tags: degree angle, Bevel Molding, bottom edge, finished side, length molding

Decorate An Old Bathroom

An old bathroom in need of TLC.

Sprucing up your home environment allows you to take control over the look and feel of every room in your house. Decorating an old bathroom in your home enables you to mix and match different colors, patterns and textures to make the old bathroom look new again. From shabby chic to modern and conservative, the decor scheme you choose is entirely up to you.

Instructions

1. A plethora of colors makes decorating an old bathroom fun.

Select a color scheme you want to incorporate into the old bathroom. This makes choosing decorative accents an easier task, as you coordinate with the colors you have chosen. You can either match the old bathroom to the rest of your home's decor, or get bold and creative with bright and vivid colors.

2. Select bathroom essentials such as towels, washcloths, toilet covers and a shower curtain. Make the essentials match with your chosen color scheme.

3. Hang the towels and washcloths near the shower or bathtub of the old bathroom to serve as functional decor.

4. Select a small throw rug to be placed alongside the bathtub or shower of the old bathroom. Not only does the rug serve as a way to dry your feet after a shower, it adds a decorative touch to the environment.

5. Select some kind of wall art to accent the color scheme of your old bathroom. Bathroom art can be almost anything you choose, such as beach scenes, floral paintings, or inspirational plaques.

6. Arrange assorted knickknacks around the bathroom to draw attention to the decorative accents. Candles, small statuary items and potted plants bring attractive qualities to a drab, old bathroom.

Tags: color scheme, your home, decorative accents, towels washcloths

Fix Peeling Paint On The Bathroom Wall & Ceiling

Fix Peeling Paint on the Bathroom Wall & Ceiling

Bathroom ceilings and walls can be hard areas to keep looking nice, because of mildew, peeling paint and water marks. Humidity is your enemy in the bathroom. If your paint is peeling in there, it will take more than a new coat of paint to fix the problem.

Instructions

1. Use a fine-grit sandpaper to gently buff the edges of the peeling paint. Sand until the edge is well blended with the surface of the wall. Scrape any areas that are bubbling. Do not gouge the wall underneath the paint with the scraper.

2. Clean the walls and ceiling with a specially formulated paint detergent. Or use a general-purpose household cleaner, as long as you thoroughly rinse with hot water after cleaning. Do not leave any residue on the walls. Do not use this method on a heavily textured ceiling.

3. Remove remaining mildew stains by spraying a weak solution of diluted bleach water onto the spots. One tbsp. bleach in a cup of hot water will break up the stain. Rinse with hot water to remove any remaining residue. Allow the walls and ceiling to dry completely. Do not allow the bathroom to become fogged up by showers or baths prior to painting.

4. Check the texture in the area you're repairing. You may need to replace the texture, if you had to sand through it to remove the peeling paint. Match the texture to the existing wall. You can find texture repair kits at most hardware stores. Follow the directions on the kit.

5. Apply an oil-based, stain-killing primer coat to all areas that have been sanded and cleaned. Follow the directions on the label. Allow the primer to cure completely before painting.

6. Make sure the new paint matches the existing color before applying it to the walls or ceilings. Mix the paint thoroughly before applying. Using a sponge brush, dab paint onto the area that has been sanded. After this coat dries, use a roller to apply another coat over the first, extending this one slightly beyond the edges to overlap the area that did not require sanding. Use a slightly dry roller so the edges blend together. Repeat this step, if necessary.

Tags: area that, areas that, Bathroom Wall, Bathroom Wall Ceiling, been sanded, before applying

Lighting In Coffered Ceilings

Coffered ceilings feature recessed panels that are usually square or rectangular.

If your home features coffered ceilings, you will want to install lighting that emphasizes and complements the ceiling's architectural detail. Originally used in homes for structural support, today's coffered ceilings play more of a decorative role. The lighting you choose for coffered rooms can both highlight the ceiling's signature panels, while enlarging and enhancing the room's decor.

Features

Coffered ceilings are usually found in dens, living rooms, dining rooms and home offices. However, kitchens, bedrooms and even outdoor porches use this architectural style. Coffered ceilings typically feature grid-like panels formed by interconnecting horizontal and vertical lines. The result is a series of sunken panels that highlight colors, patterns or lighting applied between or along its trimmed molding. As a result, beams framing panels in coffered ceilings can help frame or encircle fixtures. Lighting in coffered ceilings is commonly used to draw attention to the aesthetics or spatial configurations of a room.

Ceiling Lighting

Recessed lighting is one agreeable option for coffered ceiling styles. Use recessed lighting if you want ceiling lights with a conspicuous design, but fixtures that direct light downward for cooking, cleaning and other household tasks. Recessed lighting also works well with modern interior design themes or if you want simple lighting that does not distract from the ceiling's design. Incorporate pendant lamps or chandeliers for areas, such as the dining room or kitchen, where significant time is spent working over the counter or eating at the table. Similar to chandeliers, pendant lamps can be adjusted to hang high or low from the ceiling depending on the amount of light you want illuminating the room.

Wall and Obscure Lighting

Install wall sconces and lamps along the walls in the areas such as the den and bedroom. Wall sconces offer enough illumination to view details in the room without competing with a coffered ceiling's latticed design. Create a specific mood or subdued atmosphere by using cove lighting fixtures. Cove lighting may be hidden or obscured along the ceiling's beams and edges. The result is a warm and cozy effect that brings attention to the coffered ceiling rather than to the walls or floors of the room.

Considerations

Use a combination of recessed, wall and lamp lighting in rooms that are connected or open to each other. For instance, install pendant lamps over a kitchen bar overlooking the den, and place recessed lighting along the kitchen's perimeter near the stove, sink and counters. Implementing different lighting schemes produces different moods based on the room's purpose. Various fixture styles and brightness levels also project illusionary distance between floors and high ceilings or add ceiling depth in smaller spaces.

Tags: coffered ceiling, pendant lamps, areas such, coffered ceilings, Coffered ceilings, from ceiling, lighting that

Contemporary Bathroom Decorating Ideas

Contemporary styles take a fresh, modern approach to your bathroom.

The bathroom is one of the busiest rooms in the house. The environment that you create in your bathroom can provide you with a beautiful place to relax and eliminate the stress of your day. A contemporary style is a sleek and modern approach to the decor in your bathroom.

Showers and Bathtubs

When you select the shower and bathtub for your contemporary bathroom, choose a style that suits your particular lifestyle needs. For instance, if you frequently enjoy a soak in the tub, a soaking tub with all the amenities for relaxing in the bath is a worthwhile investment. For those who spend more time in a shower than a tub, a walk-in shower may be a slick alternative to a bathtub and shower design, which will save space in the room. Extra-large showerheads or dual showerheads provide a luxurious feeling in a contemporary bathroom. Larger bathrooms may be able to accommodate both a walk-in shower and a soaking tub for the ultimate in bathroom luxury.

Vanities and Sinks

A modern or contemporary approach to vanities and sinks includes polished chrome and interesting angles. Sinks that consist of a raised bowl resting on a vanity that looks more like furniture than a bathroom vanity are popular in a contemporary bathroom. The smaller table-style vanity works best in bathrooms with additional storage areas to accommodate items typically stored under the bathroom sink. Pedestal-style sinks work better in a large bathroom with additional storage. A contemporary bathroom is minimalist in design and may expose the functioning parts of the bathroom instead of trying to camouflage them.

Floors and Walls

Colors for a contemporary bathroom include neutral tones and solids, as opposed to traditional patterns such as florals or stripes. A checkerboard pattern is a bold, dramatic look for a contemporary bathroom. The appearance can be clean and cool in the contemporary room. White marble floors or soft pastels to create a spa atmosphere in the bathroom are common in a modern bathroom.

Tags: contemporary bathroom, your bathroom, additional storage, modern approach, walk-in shower

Design A Modern Style Room On A Budget

Design a Modern Style Room on a Budget

Home decorating is always an important consideration. Whether designing a room for comfort or style, a great deal of planning and effort often goes into making a room just right. Sometimes these decorating endeavors can become a costly state of affairs. This may be especially true when attempting to design a modern room. The idea of modern chic tends to accompany a hefty price tag. However, with a bit of careful planning, a contemporary room can be designed on a budget.

Instructions

1. Plan to simplify. One of the appealing aspects of the modern style is its simplicity. Less clutter is needed.

2. Begin with neutral and black colors. Choose paints, fabrics and carpeting with neutral colors to create a stress free atmosphere. Pulling in a single striking object in a rich color can accentuate the room without overdoing it.

3. Keep the lines clean. This means choosing furniture, pictures and shelving that have clean straight edges. Avoid bulky, fluffy or soft pieces. Instead lean towards acrylic, steel, plastic, wood, and fibers that are easily maintained.

4. Clear the surfaces. Contemporary style advocates clean surfaces. No bookshelves should be piled with magazines and mail. Remove items that stack and suffocate table tops and shelves. Leave these areas completely empty. You could opt to place a single focal point object on a black table surface.

5. Lighting is key. Lighting is a very important factor in modern designs. Track lighting is popular for contemporary themes. It can emphasize the rooms with chrome finishes or bright colors. For a less expensive option, consider floor lamps which involve no installations. Select lamps can also add vivid colors to offset the neutral tones.

Tags: Design Modern, Design Modern Style, Modern Style, Modern Style Room, Room Budget, Style Room

Design A Master Bathroom Suite

Design A Master Bathroom Suite

Having a master bathroom suite that is designed just for you is one of life's greatest luxuries. Your bathroom suite will depend on the amount of room and money you have, but you can implement many luxurious elements even in a small bath.

Instructions

1. Every good plan takes research. Spend plenty of time looking at master bathroom suites by visiting open houses, attending home shows and browsing bathroom section of do-it-yourself centers. Also check out plumbing stores, as they will often have bathrooms on display. Get more ideas from home-oriented websites, magazines and television shows.

2. Make a plan. Life experience and personal needs will determine your needs and wants in your bathroom. You need a dream list to start off your plan. After you have your list, you need to determine costs and whether you have the space available for those elements. If you are building a new home or remodeling your bathroom, you need to measure and graph out your area so you can experiment with ideas and the space available.

3. Double vanities are very desirable in a master bathroom. If possible, it's nice to split them up into two separate areas of the room so there is plenty of elbow room when a couple is getting ready at the same time. Include lots of drawer and cabinet space so you can keep your vanity tops free of clutter. Consider vanity towers for extra storage space. Granite countertops are a beautiful luxury, and undermount sinks are easy to care for. Make sure you have plenty of lighting above the vanity area. Consider raising the vanity height to 34 inches instead of the customary 30 inches -- much less bending over for adults.

4. A well-designed walk-in shower is the ultimate luxury. Many people are eliminating a tub for the convenience of a nice walk-in shower when space is limited, but a jetted tub is a nice place to relax after a hard day. Consider having a step up to the tub. Include extra shower and bath heads for convenience. A straight tub is much easier to lie in than a corner tub. It's nice to have an opaque window for lighting above the tub. Add a cable outlet so you can watch your favorite programs while soaking.

5. Most bathroom suites include closet space. In a master suite, his-and-her walk-in closets are ideal. Include a dressing area; it's nice to have a place to sit while putting on shoes and include a full-length mirror. Personal preference dictates whether you have doors on your closets or leave them open into the bathroom.

6. A private room for the toilet is desirable in a master suite. You might consider adding a bidet or urinal. Include a shelf for reading material. If there is still room, add a pedestal sink.

7. Make sure you have plenty of lighting, and include some mood lighting if you want a special retreat. Add surround sound - even in the shower. A small gas fireplace in the wall is inviting and warming in cold winters. If you have a central vacuum, install a built-in dust pan. You can also put in a washer and dryer, so laundry is convenient.

8. This is your personal space, and you want it to reflect your tastes and needs. Color, decor and accessories are all a matter of what you like and what fits your space and budget. Artwork, plants, candles and other items will personalize your new bathroom suite.

Tags: master bathroom, your bathroom, bathroom need, Bathroom Suite, bathroom suite, bathroom suites

Apply Faux Tin Over A Popcorn Ceiling

Ceilings can be a focal piece in any home, and tin ceilings really make a statement.

Remodeling homes is a great investment and can be fun, but it is important to go in with knowledge. Replacing popcorn ceilings can increase the worth of any house and faux tin is easy to install and beautiful to look at. Installing the tiles over the popcorn ceiling should be a trouble-free procedure.

Instructions

Prepare

1. Clean the ceiling with water and a rag. Do not get it overly wet, but eliminate any loose paint or particles on the ceiling.

2. Place dropcloths to protect carpets and furniture. Clear excess furniture out of the room to give yourself a large work area.

3. Mark off the ceiling to calculate how many tin ceiling tiles are needed to complete the job. Verify the size of each ceiling tile, then with a partner, a measuring tape and a pencil, mark off the spaces on the ceiling. This way, no ceiling tiles go to waste and you don't end up without enough of the tiles to finish the job.

Install Tiles

4. Apply the adhesive provided with the ceiling tiles to the ceiling and to the back of the decorative tile. Check drying time on package instructions. Allow it to dry. Often, tin suppliers use sheets of tin ceiling tiles, so you will be applying a whole section at one time.

5. Place the tin ceiling tiles firmly in place. Press down firmly to allow the adhesive to set.

6. Repeat Step 2 for the next section of tiles. The adhesive dries in less than 20 minutes, so it should be possible to finish putting a tin ceiling over top of your existing popcorn ceiling within a day. You do not have to remove the popcorn ceiling, just install the tin tiles.

Tags: ceiling tiles, popcorn ceiling

Ideas For Decorating A Luxury Bathroom

Sometimes the bathroom may be the more overlooked place in a home. However, it is a relatively simple proposition to transform this more utilitarian room into a luxurious space. There are a few trends in home decor and design that are perfect for adding style and personality to a luxury bathroom.

Walls and Floors

The options in floor and wall coverings for bathrooms are endless. Faux finishes and accent walls are ideal in this room that is commonly a blank white canvas. Because bathroom walls tend to cover less area that walls in other parts of the house, it is easy to transform a wall with the latest designer color. Pumpkin orange and muted green are trendy accent colors, as well as marine blue and lavender accented with espresso brown. Wallpaper, subway tiles and small tiles are other trends for walls and floors.

Fixtures

Fixtures for luxury bathrooms might be bold and modern or they might be authentic antiques. Either way, workmanship is key. Look for sturdy materials made of glass, stone, marble or brass. Recent trends in luxury bathroom fixtures include pedestal sinks and sinks that float on cabinets. Go space age with some upscale accessories such as modular cabinetry, furniture with interior outlets, shower door defoggers, mirrors with integrated magnifiers or hidden storage.

Going Green

Going green is the latest concept for the luxury bathroom. The back-to-basics look does not have to be rustic, however. Organic curtains, bath rugs and towels come in high thread counts and can be better for sensitive skin as well as the earth. Creating a bathroom spa is a way to get back to nature while also pampering yourself. Use natural concoctions and store them in beautiful recycled glass jars and bottles. Store necessities in bamboo and wicker pails. Use energy saving bulbs for mood lighting and complement it with aromatherapy candles.

Tags: luxury bathroom

Decorate A Room That Already Has Wooden Wall Paneling

A wood-paneled room can still have a modern look.

Wood paneling gives a room a near-instant rustic quality, making you feel almost as though you were in a cabin by a lake. Wood paneling is also a suitable fix for walls that have noticeable flaws or damage on them since they cover up these issues more completely than paint. However, when it comes to decorating a room already fully outfitted in wood paneling, many homeowners might feel that only country-style furniture looks best in such a room. However, this is not your only option.

Instructions

1. Select another main color for the room to use as another component in your color scheme. Your color scheme already includes golden brown or honey-colored wood paneling as one of the main colors. Choose any color you want; it doesn't matter if it contrasts or complements the wood shade. For example, if you want an earthy look to the room, select green or tan. If you want a modern, more avant garde look, select purple or magenta.

2. Select the main piece of furniture for this room, such as a bed, desk or couch, depending on what kind of room this is. This pieces of furniture should match one of the two central colors of your decorating scheme. Select secondary pieces of furniture, such as coffee tables, accents tables, chairs and other items in one of your two decorative colors. The room should have a balance between the two colors you've chosen.

3. Select a third color for your color scheme to help unite the brown and golden tones of the wood with the third color. For example, if you chose green to go with the wood tones, choose orange or red to contrast the two earth colors. Or you could use a dark shade of chocolate brown or hunter green as your third color.

4. Decorate the room with accent pieces in your third color. For example, throw rugs, throw pillows, window treatments, ashtrays and other items should all be in your accent color.

Tags: third color, color scheme, your third color, color Decorate, color example, other items, pieces furniture

Paper Lamp Safety Requirements

Paper lamps can be an attractive home accent, but they also pose some fire risks.

Homeowners often use paper lamps or lanterns to provide dim lighting for outdoor get-togethers. Indoors, these lamps can create a festive, Asian-influenced ambiance. Here are some tips to reduce the risk of accidental fire when using paper lamps.

Bulb Wattage

A bulb that is too powerful for a paper lamp can start a fire or melt the socket casing. Most paper lamps take 60-watt bulbs, but some support up to 100 watts. Always check the manufacturer's instructions before inserting a bulb, and check the bulb wattage carefully.

Bulb Types

You can use either incandescent or compact fluorescent (CFC) bulbs with paper lamps, although CFCs generate less heat than incandescents. Avoid halogens, since the high level of heat they produce can pose a fire risk.

Bulb Placement

To avoid the risk of fire, bulbs should never come in direct contact with the paper shell. If using an incandescent bulb, place it at least three to four inches from the inside of the shell. CFCs should be placed at least one inch from the inside of the shell.

Free-Standing Lamps

When using paper lamps that rest on tables, the floor or the ground, place them where they will not be knocked over, and make sure the electrical cord is tucked away or secured so that no one will trip over it. If not properly placed, a black cord may pose a tripping hazard at outdoor nighttime functions.

Cords

When hanging an indoor lamp, make sure the ceiling hooks that suspend the cord are securely installed to prevent the lamp from falling. Place the hooks no more than 12 inches apart to ensure that the cord does not hang low enough to be struck by passersby.

Tags: paper lamps, from inside, from inside shell, inside shell, make sure, paper lamps, using paper

Identify An Antique Brass Candleholder

Identify an Antique Brass Candleholder

Antique brass candleholders go back to the 18th century, when brass was poured into a mold in the shape of elaborate candelabras and ornate brass candlesticks. Used before the invention of electricity, candleholders made from brass were a much-needed utilitarian decorative, made both for function and beauty by master craftsmen. Parts of an antique brass candlestick include the wax pan, nozzle, sconce, capital, shoulder, stem, column, knop, well and base.

Instructions

1. Check the antique brass candleholder to see if it has a seamed stem. That is the main telltale sign of an old brass candleholder. Look at the middle part of the candleholder, which is the stem part, for a line that runs from top to bottom. Antique brass candleholders were often seamed; two pieces soldered together over an open flame.

2. Look at the finish. Turn the brass candleholder upside down and check for a well-finished underside, something similar to the finish on the entire candleholder. Antique candleholders have a yellow gold color.

3. Examine the metal closely with a magnifying glass for discoloration on the bottom. Feel the bottom to check for roughness. On newer candleholders, made in the 20th century, there will be a discolored bottom, and they will not have a continuation of similar-colored brass like on the older, antique pieces. On newer pieces, there may be less quality metal on other parts of the brass candleholder as well.

4. Look at the shape of the base to see if it is round. The round-shaped bases on brass candleholders are often an indicator that they are antiques. That is because the base underside was cleaned by hand, and to get that finery throughout, the base had to be arched.

5. Examine the candleholder for push-up rods or side ejectors. These were made in the 18th and 19th centuries. They kept the candle in place and also dejected it. Look at rounded corners on the brass candleholder for smoothness. A smooth patina would match that of quality old brass.

Tags: brass candleholder, brass candleholders, antique brass, Antique Brass Candleholder, Antique brass candleholders, candleholders made, Identify Antique

Replace Suspended Ceiling Panels

Suspended ceilings are most common in residential basements or commercial buildings. Suspended ceiling is made up of metal joists and panels that rest on these metal joists. One benefit of installing a suspended ceiling, is the ease of panel removal to replace them in case of damage, such as water damage, or to access pipes.

Instructions

1. Lift the damaged ceiling tile gently off of the metal grid. Slide it back, and tilt it slightly so that it fits out the space of the grid it was resting in.

2. Measure the space where the new ceiling panel will go. If necessary, trim the new ceiling panel with a utility knife to fit the space. Use a level to make sure your cut is straight.

3. Tilt the new ceiling panel at a slight angle and fit it through the space in the grid. Straighten it out and slowly lower it onto the metal joists.

Tags: ceiling panel, metal joists, space grid

Anchor Wood To Steel Ibeams

Floor joists are connected to steel I-beams with joist hangers.

A steel I-beam is installed down the center line or load-bearing lines in a building's basement for homes which are constructed with below-grade basements. These beams are designed to carry the weight of the home, and transfer that load to the concrete foundation. After the beams are laid, the next step is building the wood flooring system which supports the first floor. Because wood joists cannot be nailed or anchored to the steel beam directly, the floor joists need to be connected to the steel beams via top-mount joist hangers.

Instructions

1. Lay a heavy bead of construction adhesive along the top edge of the home's steel I-beam, and then lay the 2-by-6 dimension lumber on the top surface of the I-beam as a plate. Clamp the board in place with the C-clamps so that it does not move during the next step.

2. Drill a 5/16-inch hole through the wood plate and through the steel I-beam beneath it. Using the 1/4-inch carriage bolts, bolt the steel beam and the plate together. Tap the heads of the bolts into the wood so that they are flush, or recessed into the plate's surface. Bolts should be alternately placed on each side of the I-beam, and can be 4 to 6 feet apart.

3. Lay out the floor joists along the wood plate, and around the perimeter of the home's foundation. The floor hoists should be 16 inches on-center apart from one another, and square to the frame of the home.

4. Attach the top-mount joist hangers to the top plate so they are centered on the marks for the floor joists. The top-mount hangers nail into the top of the wood plate to support their weight, and the weight of the joists laid in the next step.

5. Measure and cut the floor joists individually. In a perfect world, the floor joists would all be the same length, but due to construction inconsistencies, they may vary by a half-inch.

6. Set the floor joists onto the plate on the exterior wall, then drop the other end of the joist into the joist hanger. Fasten the joist into the hanger with truss nails along the sides of the joist. After squaring the joist to the foundation walls, nail the joist into the foundation wall top plate.

Tags: floor joists, joist hangers, joist into, next step, steel I-beam, wood plate, connected steel

Light A Dining Table

Chandeliers add light and style to a dining table.

The lighting situation in a dining room sets the mood and atmosphere for the meal. When considering your lighting options, choose something that will accentuate the style element you desire. For instance, if you want the setting to be intimate and casual, small lighting fixtures that don't give off much light may be your best option. However, if you are looking to be bold and dramatic, elegant chandeliers or wall lights can help you to achieve your goal. With so many lighting options available, finding what suits your needs is enjoyable and possible.

Instructions

1. Install a chandelier above the table. Chandeliers typically create drama in the room and are a major focal point. However, this lighting fixture shouldn't interfere with interaction between your guests; therefore, it should hang no lower than 30 inches above the surface of the table. If the chandelier is lower, it may impede your guest's vision. A variety of style options are available for chandeliers, including the traditional crystals and glass variety and the more modern hanging candle chandelier.

2. Install accent lights into the walls around the table. Instead of hanging the lights directly above your table, place them to the side on a wall nearby. Doing so will create a dramatic effect and will likely give your guests something to admire while eating.

3. Hang a few pendant lights above your table. Unlike chandeliers that hang over the center of the table, numerous pendant lights can be arranged to run over the length of your table. The size of both the table and the lamps plays a part in how many lights you should install. Pendant lights create a modern feel to your room and typically give off large amounts of illumination, because there are so many lights. This lighting option typically works well for long, rectangular tables.

4. Place candles or small lamps on your table for an intimate feel. Candles give off small amounts of light just right for a casual and intimate atmosphere, as do small lamps. Use flameless candles if you are concerned about the safety aspects of having an open flame on your table. The amount of candles or lights you place on the table depends on how big the table is. If you have a long table, place a candle or light about a foot away from each other. If you have a small, round table, place two in the center.

Tags: your table, table place, above your, above your table, lighting options

Air Brush A Ceiling

Airbrushing creates elegant and detailed graffiti art.

Whether you're stenciling or painting freely, using an airbrush to paint your ceiling is a simple and effective way to add designs and motifs to your ceiling. Airbrushing is used on motorcycles, cars, T-shirts, murals and even skin, and although airbrushing requires a much looser brushing technique because of the brush's distance from the painting surface, most of the preparation and painting process is identical to more common house painting.

Instructions

Preparation and Painting

1. Remove all the furniture from your room, or cover it with plastic sheets or another type of covering.

2. Cover the floor with a protective covering.

3. Remove any lights, mirrors or other fixtures from the walls. This allows you to access the portion of the ceiling that meets the walls without straining.

4. Place the stepladder underneath the area you wish to paint.

5. Put on your respirator.

6. Climb the stepladder, making sure the hose of the airbrush is secure and won't flail. A flailing hose could mean a flailing airbrush.

7. Hold the airbrush about 8 inches from the ceiling.

8. Spray using gentle, back-and-forth strokes over the area being painted.

Stencil Work

9. Tape newspaper around the area you wish to paint.

10. Spray adhesive to the back of your stencil or pattern and let it set for 30 seconds.

11. Press the stencil against the ceiling for about a minute before letting go.

12. Paint over the stencil as you would an open area of ceiling.

13. Remove the newspaper and the stencil from the ceiling.

Tags: area wish, area wish paint, from ceiling, paint your, wish paint, your ceiling

Choose A Bathroom Theme

What do you want your bathroom to say?

If you are like most people you enjoy decorating your home but that is usually the easiest part. The hard part comes where you can't decide what colors or theme to choose for that particular room. The bathroom can be just as hard because you want something that reflects who you are and one you can appreciate day after day when you get ready for work or the day. Choosing a bathroom theme can be fairly simple when broken down so maybe this will help you decide!

Instructions

1. Figure out your budget. There is no doubt you can easily find a bathroom theme you absolutely love but we all know they aren't always that cheap. If they were, everyone would have an immaculate and decked out bathroom but unfortunately, not all of us can afford to do this. So figure out just how much you are willing to spend or can afford in order to decorate your bathroom. You can even start with just adding a few things here and there as you have the money instead of buying all at once. The only problem with this is that you will have to choose something that doesn't go out of style, otherwise the item you want may not be there come time that you have the money to get it.

2. Make a list of the colors that you like best for relaxation. Write down the themes that you think will work best for a bathroom that involve those colors.

3. Choose colors or a special theme. You can easily create your own theme with different colors of your choice or you can browse through available themes. In order to choose colors you want to make sure you pick colors that you know you won't tire of after a month or longer.

4. Start shopping around. Now that you know how much you can spend, and a theme in mind you can start trying to figure out the best choice for price, etc. Many times you can find a better deal on-line but it doesn't hurt to check your local stores as well. If you are creating your own theme you can shop around to find out how much it's going to cost you to do what you want. Depending on what you have to buy, it may be cheaper than buying theme ready items.

5. Take samples home of colors of paint, and pictures of cute designs. Hold them up against your bathroom. This can be a final deciding factor. It will become apparent which things work best within your home.

Tags: your bathroom, bathroom theme, colors that, have money, something that, that know, work best

Level Paneling Grooves For Painting

The grooves in paneling present a painting challenge.

Many older homes have paneling rather than drywall. The combination of dark paneling with low ceilings makes a room appear smaller and sometimes dreary, and looks nothing like the open, high-ceiling architecture in many newer homes. If the paneling is firmly attached to the wall, and the cost or trouble to remove it and refinish the wall is out of your price or talent range, then you can fill the grooves on the paneling before painting in order to achieve the smooth finish of drywall.

Instructions

1. Wipe down all the paneling with a damp sponge to remove dirt and dust. Allow the paneling to dry completely.

2. Scoop drywall mud out of the container using a plastic putty knife.

3. Press the drywall mud into the top of one of the grooves and drag the knife down the groove to continue pressing mud into the slot. Continue this process until you fill every groove. You may have to make more than one application per groove to completely fill the slot.

4. Allow the drywall mud to dry completely. Drying time depends on the temperature and humidity in the room, but the mud will change to a lighter color as it dries, making it easier to determine. Allowing the mud to dry overnight is usually enough time, except in cases of high humidity.

5. Sand the walls with fine-grit sandpaper. While you can sand the walls by hand, the most efficient method is using an orbital sander. When sanding, pay close attention to the grooves. Make sure the entire wall is smooth to the touch.

6. Wipe away the sanding dust with a microfiber cloth.

7. Prime the wall with interior primer and paint the wall with the color of your choice.

Tags: grooves paneling, paneling with, wall with

Diy Camper Ceiling & Roof Repair

RVs near snow that can potentially damage a roof.

A recreational vehicle (RV) generally takes ceiling damage, not from the inside, but from the outside. Usually the damage is caused by a moisture leak on the roof. Long periods of time in wet conditions, like snow, can work away the sealant that covers all of the seems on the roof. Roof maintenance is key to prevent ceiling damage. The roof should be sealed every one to two years regardless of the climate the trailer is in. Sealing the roof means painting sealant over all seams, screws and around the perimeters of all vents and fixtures.

Instructions

1. Trace the source of the damage. It is likely a leaky roof seam. If the roof does not need to be replaced, seal the seam. If a section of the roof does need to be replaced, sealing the roof will become the last step.

2. Peal away and remove any wallpaper or molding on the ceiling.

3. Cut out the damaged area of the roof with the jigsaw. Drill a hole to get the jigsaw blade into the ceiling. Depending on the extent of the damage an entire section of the ceiling may need replacing. Look at the molding locations to locate screws or nails underneath. These parts may also need to be carefully pulled away from the walls if attached.

4. Remove all damaged wood, starting with the main section of plywood and then the under beams. Using wood screws replace whole sections or cut into the good wood and cut the damaged wood out, and splice in new wood. This can be done by overlapping a piece of wood over the cut joint and screwing the new wood and old wood into the overlapping wood. Metal attachments can also be used for splicing. The stronger the bond the better. Gluing the wood joints will help the bond.

5. Reattach the wallpaper, molding and fixtures.

6. Seal the roof with sealant if it hasn't been done yet.

Tags: ceiling damage, damage roof, damaged wood, does need, does need replaced

Install An Air Duct In A Suspended Drywall Ceiling

With flexible ducts, you can successfully run air throughout the space above a suspended ceiling.

Supplying air conditioning precisely where it's needed in a home often requires the running of additional air ducts through the walls and ceiling spaces of the home. Flexible duct allows you to do this by working your way through small crowded spaces with ease. When the space is above a suspended drywall ceiling, there's even more ceiling space to work with than usual. All that's necessary is to access the space, attach the new duct and then run the duct through the area to wherever it's needed.

Instructions

1. Locate the screws along the edges of the drywall ceiling panels that secure the panels to the suspended ceiling grid. Remove the screws with a Phillips screwdriver, and then lower the panels and set them aside. The screws may be hidden by a coating of joint compound. Feel along the surface of the drywall until you feel the deformation created by the row of screws running through the panels to locate their placement. Remove the compound with a putty knife to access the screw heads. Removing the panels will give you access to the space above the grid where you can run the ductwork. Depending on the size of the panels, they may be heavy so an assistant may be needed to help you support the panel's weight during removal.

2. Locate the nearest main air duct to the room. The duct is recognizable by its square shape. If you can't find the duct, then locate the nearest air conditioning vent and run a metal detector stud finder over the wall around the vent to locate the direction of the duct connecting the vent to the main line. Use a wide scan setting on the finder to detect the vent location, then a pinpoint scanning mode to follow the duct through the wall.

3. Follow the ductwork as it runs through the wall with the metal detector until you reach a connecting branch. The connection should be the place where the duct feeding the vent connects to the main duct. Follow the main duct with the stud finder toward the room where you wish to run the air duct through the ceiling space. When you get as close to the space as you can, stop following the duct and mark its position in the wall or ceiling. This is where you'll need to cut into the duct to connect the new flexible duct used to run through the space above your suspended drywall ceiling.

4. Access the marked location of the duct by removing the drywall panel covering the duct. Locate the edges of the panel by feeling along the surface of the drywall until you reach the drywall tape beneath the smooth wall or ceiling surface. Cut through the center of the tape with a utility knife along the drywall joints on both sides of the panel. Pry the panel from the surface with a pry bar to pull away the panel and the nails holding it in place as well.

5. Place a starter collar for ducts against the side of the square duct nearest your suspended ceiling area. Trace around the edge of the collar with a grease pencil against the square duct.

6. Drill a hole through the side of the duct just inside your drawn circle to create a starting point for cutting into the duct. Slip the tip of a pair of tin snips into the hole and cut out the traced circle. Use right cut tin snips to cut clockwise along the circle edge, and left cut tin snips if your cut runs counterclockwise. Remove the cutout from the side of the duct.

7. Bend every other small tab along the rim of the collar to the side so that they point away from the collar at a 90-degree angle. Slip the still straight tabs into the hole in the duct so that the bent tabs rest on the duct surface. Reach through the center of the collar and bend the remaining tabs out 90-degrees so that the edge of the duct is caught between the two rows of tabs.

8. Drive three hex-head sheet metal screws into the side of the duct through the lip along the edge of the collar to secure the collar to the duct surface. Use a screw set on the drill to space the screws evenly around the rim of the collar.

9. Slip the end of a length of flexible duct long enough to run through the walls or ceiling of your structure to the target location over the drywall ceiling over the end of the starter collar. Wrap a duct strap around the end of the duct over the collar to hold the duct in place. Tighten the strap with a pair of pliers. Cover the joint between the collar and the duct with a strip of metal duct tape.

10. Run the duct through the wall or ceiling between the wall studs or the ceiling joists toward the suspended ceiling area. Connect the duct every five feet along the path by wrapping a duct strap around the body of the flexible duct and screwing it to a joist or stud with one of the hex-head screws.

11. Continue to run the duct through the space over the suspended ceiling, connecting the duct to the ceiling joists above the gridwork with the duct straps until you reach your destination.

12. Extend the flexible duct to the target area and connect it to whatever you wish to drive the air to with the duct. Cut the flexible duct if necessary using the tin snips.

13. Replace the ceiling panels once your connection is made by screwing them back into place to the grid framework. Cover the screws with a thin layer of joint compound spread over the screw heads with a putty knife to conceal them, and then paint the compound to match the ceiling surface with an interior paint and paintbrush.

14. Replace the drywall panel to the wall by nailing it back into position. Sand off the joint compound placed over the joint between the returned panel and adjacent panels. Redo the joint with a layer of joint compound spread along the joint smoothly with a drywall knife. Cover the compound with drywall tape, and then cover the tape with a second layer of compound. Allow the compound 24 hours drying time and then sand it smooth before repainting the wall its original color to conceal the repair.

Tags: duct through, suspended ceiling, drywall ceiling, joint compound, space above, flexible duct

Replace Fluorescent Ceiling Lights

Replace your old fluorescent fixtures with something more unique.

Remove your old fluorescent ceiling lights when they become outdated or have stopped working. Replace the fluorescent lights with a new fixture that complements your room's d cor. Although fluorescent lights use less energy to operate, they can stand out like a sore thumb in the room. The ballasts can begin to hum, and the bulbs can start flickering, making the fixture more of an annoyance than an asset. Having some prior electrical wiring knowledge is helpful when removing and replacing your fluorescent ceiling lights.

Instructions

1. Turn the power off to the fluorescent ceiling light circuit by turning off the circuit breaker at the main breaker panel.

2. Pull the plastic light lens from the fluorescent ceiling light. If the light has a wrap around lens, grasp the lens on one side of the fixture. Flex the plastic away from the top of the fixture to release it. A fluorescent fixture with a flat plastic lens requires you to push the lens up toward the bulbs and tilt the plastic to pull the lens from the fixture.

3. Twist the fluorescent tubes to release them from the fixture. If the fluorescent tubes have green ends, you can throw them in the trash. If the fluorescent tubes have silver ends, take them to a home improvement store to have them disposed of properly.

4. Remove the metal cover from the center of the fixture covering the ballast and the wiring. Depending on the manufacturer, the cover could be held by screws or have slots cut in the metal for the cover to slip into.

5. Untwist the wire connectors holding the black, white and bare copper house wiring to the black, white and green fluorescent ballast wires. Locate the screws in the fluorescent fixture holding it to the ceiling. Remove the screws from the fixture to release the fluorescent fixture from the ceiling.

6. Attach the mounting strap provided with the flush mount fixture's mounting hardware to the electrical box in the ceiling. Use the outlet box screws provided with the flush mount fixture to attach the strap to the box.

7. Connect the bare copper ground wire from the ceiling electrical box and the ground wire from the new flush mount to the green ground screw on the mounting strap. Wrap both wires around the screw and tighten it.

8. Find the black and white wires on the new fixture. Connect the fixture's black wire and the fixture's white wire to the black and white wire from the electrical box. Match the white to the white and the black to the black. Twist an orange wire connector onto each wire set.

9. Push the new fixture canopy against the ceiling. The canopy holds the light bulb sockets and the light shade. Attach the canopy to the ceiling electrical box by threading the mounting screws through the canopy and into the electrical box.

10. Screw the nipple into the bushing in the center of the canopy. The nipple is a hollow tube with threads at both ends. The bushing is threaded to hold one end of the nipple.

11. Twist the light bulb clockwise into the socket. Thread the light shade over the nipple and hold the shade against the canopy. Twist the finial onto the nipple to hold the shade to the fixture. Not all light shades connect to the fixture by a nipple and finial. Some light shades connect with three or four screws threaded through the edge of the canopy and tightened against the glass shade, holding the shade to the fixture.

Tags: black white, fluorescent ceiling, from fixture, fluorescent fixture, fluorescent tubes, flush mount

Make A Ceiling Look Higher

So you didn't end up with that old Victorian house you always dreamed of. For a number of practical reasons, you live in a small ranch instead. But you don't have to give up your vision for your home. You can decorate your small home to give it the illusion of a larger space. Visually raising the ceiling is a good place to begin.

Instructions

1. Stripe the walls. Use vertical stripes, which draw the eyes up, to decorate your small home. When you decorate with stripes on the walls, the walls appear taller, so the ceiling looks higher. You can use wallpaper or paint to add vertical stripes to the walls.

2. Add height to windows. Windows add horizontal lines to the walls, which make them look shorter. You can make the ceiling in your small home look higher by counteracting those horizontal lines with more vertical lines. When you decorate the windows with drapes, hang the rods higher than the windows. This increases the vertical pull of the windows.

3. Flatten the ceiling. Any protrusion from the ceiling takes away from the visual height in your small home. Refinish the ceiling with flat paint, eliminating any sand paint or decorative plaster that currently hangs from the ceiling. Tear out any decoration that hangs from the ceiling, including fabric swags and plaster medallions.

4. Decorate with tall, narrow furniture to add vertical lines to your room. Vertical lines fool the eye into thinking the ceiling is higher than it is. Choose mission-style pieces that incorporate vertical lines in their design or Early American furniture with tall posts and spindles.

Tags: small home, your small, your small home, from ceiling, decorate your

Energy Saving Ceiling Fans

Go green with energy efficient ceiling fans.

Keeping ceiling fans in your home is one way to "go green." Not only are the fans cost effective, but there are also a variety of ways they can be tweaked to fit your needs and conserve energy.

Fans

In general, ceiling fans are cost efficient when properly installed in your home, as dictated by your ceiling fan's installation instruction manual. By using ceiling fans in combination with your air conditioner or heater, you will save money on your monthly energy consumption.

Blade Rotation

Fans are an energy efficient option year-round because most new models have a feature that allows you to change the direction of the fan blade. One direction pushes cool air down into the room, while the opposite direction pulls cool air up and out of the room.

Energy Star

To get the maximum energy savings for your home, purchase fans that are Energy Star-qualified. Energy Star's strict specifications, as stipulated by its website, include an airflow efficiency of 1,250 CFN and an efficiency of 155 CFM/watt for low speeds, 5,000 CFN and an efficiency of 75 CM/watt for high speeds; a 30-year motor warranty; a one-year component warranty; a two-year light kit warranty; and light kits that meet RLF specifications.

Tags: ceiling fans, your home, efficiency watt, energy efficient, Energy Star, fans cost

Install A Dropped Ceiling & Tile On A Basement Ceiling

Dropped ceilings offer a quick, easy way to give an unfinished basement a finished ceiling. Drop ceiling tiles come in 2-by-2 foot squares or 2-by-4-foot rectangles. While tile size determines the grid's configuration, installation remains the same. Before you begin this project, complete any necessary drywall installation and finish all electrical work in the ceiling joists.

Instructions

1. Measure 4 inches down a wall from the bottom of a ceiling joist and make a mark. Set up a laser level in the center of the room. Line up the laser with the mark you made.

2. Measure the length of one wall. Transfer this measurement to a piece of perimeter molding. Cut the molding to the appropriate length, using tin snips. Line up the perimeter molding's bottom edge with the laser line. Hammer 6d nails through the perimeter molding and into the wall studs. Their locations should be visible above the edge of the drywall; if not, find them with a stud finder. Work your way around all four walls. Overlap the perimeter moldings' edges at inside corners and cut the ends at 45-degree angles at outside corners.

3. Measure the basement's length perpendicular to the ceiling joists. Divide this measurement by the panel length -- either 2 or 4 feet. This tells you how many full panels will fit across the basement. Divide any leftover space in half to make two rows of partial tiles -- one at either end of the basement.

4. Snap a chalk line across the ceiling joists to indicate the location of each main runner, using the configuration you determined in step 3. Screw small eyebolts into every third ceiling joist that intersects the chalk line.

5. Count the number of eyebolts you used. Cut a 10-inch-long piece of 16-gauge hanger wire for each eyebolt. Insert a wire about three3 inches through each eyebolt. Bend the wires down and wrap them around themselves three times.

6. Set up the laser level underneath the first chalk line. Set the first main runner into the grid, with the ends resting on the perimeter molding. Lower it until its bottom edge hits the laser line. Bend the wires where the main runner intersects them into an L-shape. Insert each wire into the nearest hole in the main runner. Bend the wires up and wrap them around themselves three times. Repeat this step underneath the remaining chalk lines.

7. Push cross tee tabs into the main runners' slots. The cross tees will be spaced 2 feet apart, no matter if you're using square or rectangular ceiling tiles.

8. Measure the space from the main tee to the wall along each of the four walls. Cut cross tees with tin snips to fit this space. Insert the cross tee tabs into the main runner and rest the cut end on the perimeter molding.

9. Tilt a full-size ceiling panel to fit through one of the grid openings near the center of the grid. Straighten it out and lower it onto the grid. Repeat with all the full-size panels.

10. Measure the grid opening's along the basement's perimeter. Cut ceiling tiles to fit these openings, using a sharp utility knife. Always cut with the tile laying faceup on a flat surface. Use a metal yardstick as a straightedge as you make the cuts. Fit the cut tiles into the grid the same way you fit the full-size tiles.

Tags: main runner, perimeter molding, Bend wires, ceiling joists, ceiling tiles, chalk line

Hang A Suspended Ceiling From Steel Beams

Hang a Suspended Ceiling From Steel Beams

Suspended or drop ceilings are used to conceal many types of overhead devices and equipment. In some cases, the concealed items are steel beams. Installation of a suspended ceiling requires anchor points, and the steel beams offer a solid base and can accommodate anchor points arguably more easily than wood joists or beams.

Instructions

1. Measure and mark all exterior walls at the desired height of your ceiling.

2. Install L brackets against the wall, lining up the base of the bracket with the marks. Secure the brackets to the walls using 2-inch screws. The brackets come in 12-foot lengths. Install all full lengths first, then measure and cut for any smaller pieces. Install all exterior brackets first. Using a level, periodically check that the bracket is lined up correctly.

3. Measure for the spacing on the main T rails. These will be installed on 4-foot centers across the full width of the room.

4. Install anchor points along each line in the overhead ceiling, in this case steel beams.

5. Attach beam clamps to the steel beams at 3-foot intervals along the location for the T rail. The heavy-duty clamps are adjustable to fit most any size beam. Set the clamp in place, and tighten the set screw until it is secure on the beam.

6. Secure one end of a hanger wire from each beam clamp and the other end to the T rail. Use standard hanger wire, which is sold in bulk rolls and can be custom cut to the lengths required. Check each section with the level to be certain the railing remains lined up as you secure each new hanger wire. Continue this process until all of the main T rails are installed, level and secure.

7. Install the cross T rails. These 4-foot sections of rail will be installed between the main T rails at 2-foot intervals. The cross T rails will snap into place on the main T rails. When completed, the rails should form a grid with a series of 2-by-4-foot openings. Unless your room is divisible by four, you will have one row that is less than 4 feet. The rails for this section will need to be custom cut and fitted. Use tin snips to carefully cut the rails, and lay them in place along the main rails.

8. With the support grid in place, begin installing the ceiling tiles. Start in one corner, installing all full-size ceiling tiles first. For the smaller spaces, measure each opening, and, using a utility knife, cut a ceiling tile to fit. Cut the tiles so they will fit snugly, without having to force them into place.

Tags: main rails, steel beams, anchor points, hanger wire, beam clamp, Ceiling From