Ideas On Modern Interior Designs

A modern home interior features clean, simple lines which beautifully showcase furniture and artwork and create a fresh, relaxing atmosphere. Modern design offers comfort, functionality and a timeless quality to a home. By using light paint colors, updated fixtures and interesting accessories, any room can be transformed into a more modern space.

Modern Kitchen

Kitchens, small or large, can be transformed into modern, bright and accessible spaces. To begin, add stainless steel appliances for a modern and industrial feel. Stainless steel appliances instantly update the look of a kitchen. Their shiny yet neutral design keeps the space looking light and bright. Modern kitchens are minimal and clean and the paint color for this space should reflect this motif. A light white, cream, pale gray or taupe creates a neutral palette that can be accented with colorful accessories like a bowls of fruit, utensil holders or towels. Bring in one painting or a simple black and white photograph for visual interest. This unexpected touch helps to bring the entire design together for a well-balanced room.

Modern Bedroom

Lighten up your bedroom and create a modern feel with a pale blue or light beige paint color. Get rid of your traditional headboard and replace it with a sleek piece of modern artwork, or painted panels. Painted panels are designs painted onto canvas and stretched over a frame. The design is split up over separate panels. When installed on the wall side-by-side, they come together to form a complete piece of art. On the bed, add an all-white comforter set or white linen duvet cover to lend a soft, fresh and modern feel to the room. Add a bright throw at the end of the bed in a color found in the art headboard. This will help tie the room together.

Another idea for a modern bedroom is to get rid of bulky nightstands and replace them with simple side tables. Mirror-topped side tables reflect light within the room and help to open up the space. Bring in soft lighting with modern fixtures to balance out the design.

Modern Bathroom

Simple bathrooms with concrete floors evoke the feeling of a modern space. Concrete can be shaded to any color imaginable and is very durable and long-lasting. Along with the concrete floor, add a concrete vanity top combined with a square under-mount sink for a modern touch. Alternatively, pedestal sinks also bring in a simple design to the bathroom and coordinate well with concrete. Keep the fixtures in the same finish to create a seamless design. For example, brushed- nickel towel bars, faucets and wall sconces look brilliant together. For an added decorative touch, add white subway tiles to the shower for a classic yet modern look that will keep the space feeling light and open. Top the bathroom off with a lantern pendant light overhead.

Tags: with concrete, modern feel, modern space, paint color, side tables, steel appliances

Techniques For Wood Paneling On The Wall

Wood paneling used to be all the rage in the early '60's and '70's, but today it has lost some of its flavor. Maybe the idea of dark wood paneling, which was in vogue back then, is the problem. Today, however, wood paneling can add interest to any room with a wide variety of paneling techniques.

Knotty Pine

For those of you who love the look of wood, but are not into the rustic style, knotty pine is an excellent paneling for your walls. It gives a warm and natural feeling to your room, and as an extra touch, adds a fresh pine scent. This paneling can be sealed to preserve its natural look or stained.

Knotty pine can be wainscoting if you put it only on the lower half of your wall. If you have high ceilings, knotty pine running the full length of your walls is perfect.

Knotty pine is almost always sold in tongue and groove boards and sold in widths from two to eight inches. Tongue and groove simply means that one set of panels have a tongue which fits into the groove of the other panels. It's commonly used because of the ease of installation. Knotty pine can be installed horizontally, vertically and right to left or left to right, according to wood-paneling.com. (See Reference 1)

To install vertically, start at the bottom and nail one piece to the wall. Ensure you have located the wall studs and nail into the stud on your wall into the groove and not into the paneling. Slide the next panel into the first panel and repeat.

Beadboard Paneling

Beadboard paneling is also a tongue-and-groove paneling generally used for wainscoting. Beadboard is great for kitchens, bathrooms, hallways, or anywhere there is heavy traffic in your home, according to HomeEditionPlus.com.

Beadboard comes in four-by-eight-foot sheets that, although manufactured, looks like you installed the beadboard piece by piece. Before installing, leave your beadboard out in your room for a few days to allow it to stabilize according to the humidity and temperature of your area.

Beadboard is lightweight and easily cut on a table saw.

Decorative Wall Panels

Wood wall paneling comes in a variety of finishes and textures. There are decorative textures and finishes, and veneers, such as Lionite tileboard panels, which are the strongest of the decorative panels. This veneer has melamine baked onto the panels and is great for well-used rooms or bathrooms, as it is water resistant. Melamine is a synthetic polymer and is also fire-resistant.

Other decorative wall panels are surface-printed, which is printed paper in various designs laminated into the wood panels. This is an excellent, low-cost home improvement design.

There are varieties of terrific designs for wood paneling. Wood paneling not only comes in veneers and decorative wood, but various colors too. Use wood paneling in almost any room, whether you want wainscoting or full paneling on your walls.

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Mix Different Metals In Finishes For Bathroom Faucets & Lighting

Mixing metal fixtures in the bathroom creates a more dynamic look.

If you throw open the door of the average American bathroom, you're likely to see that the towel bars, faucet, cabinet and drawer knobs, and light fixtures all consist of the exact same material. This is a safe design choice, but it's not the only one. Open up an interior decor magazine and you'll see that designers mix and match metal finishes in the bathroom with bold abandon, and these rooms look great. There's no reason why you can't do that too.

Instructions

1. Select two or four or more metal finishes that you'd like to incorporate in the bathroom. The strongest decision is to either showcase two alternating metal finishes or an array.

2. Bring samples of your chosen metal finishes home. Check to ensure that your metal finishes complement or enhance your existing color scheme and style. For example, if you have a very modern and sleek bathroom, chrome or polished silver fixtures for faucets and lighting will blend in effortlessly. However, if you throw in an antique copper sink knob, that knob will stick out like a sore thumb, rather than adding to the array of metal finishes.

3. Match the metal fixtures of the sink to the metal frame of the vanity mirror or the general color tones of the vanity mirror. This will create a general sense of harmony. For example, if the mirror has a copper frame or just warm tones, consider using gold-plated or -toned faucets.

4. Select light fixtures that contrast the metal in the sink faucets. This way, they'll also be directly contrasting the metal in the mirror, which will allow them to stand out even more.

Tags: metal finishes, light fixtures, metal fixtures, vanity mirror

Remove Popcorn Ceiling Texture Quickly

Popcorn ceilings no longer appeal to the majority of homeowners as they did from the 50s to the 80s when they were widely applied. Removing the texturing takes work and creates a mess, but the result is a more modern, clean look to the ceiling. A popcorn ceiling texture applied before 1986 may contain asbestos so testing is a key step in the process. If asbestos is present, you need a professional to remove the ceiling texture.

Instructions

1. Scrape a small section of the popcorn ceiling texture off using a putty knife. Catch the sample in a plastic bag. Take the sample to a local company that handles asbestos testing and consultations to determine if asbestos is a problem. If there is no asbestos, continue with the removal process. If asbestos is found, hire a professional to remove the texture.

2. Move furniture out of the room for easier removal. This eliminates the risk of getting the furniture dirty and allows you to move around freely as you work.

3. Cover the floor, light fixtures, electrical outlets and other fixtures you cannot move out of the room. Cut plastic sheeting to fit and tape the edges down to cover the items. This step takes time before the removal, but it saves you time on the cleanup and protects items from the dust and dirt of the project.

4. Fill a pump-style garden sprayer with water. This style of sprayer allows you to use it from any angle, unlike a spray bottle that doesn't work well when tipped to hit the ceiling.

5. Spray the ceiling with the water. You want the popcorn texture wet without saturating the drywall material it covers. Wetting the popcorn texture makes it much easier to scrape away, speeding up the removal process.

6. Put the goggles and mask on to protect yourself from the falling debris. Scrape off the popcorn texture while carefully standing on the ladder. Keep the scraper at an angle, being careful not to dig holes in the ceiling. Spray on additional water as needed for stubborn areas of the popcorn texture.

7. Pull up the tape holding down the plastic sheeting. Roll it carefully to keep all of the debris trapped inside. Wipe down any surfaces that still have popcorn texture dust on them.

Tags: popcorn texture, asbestos testing, ceiling Spray, ceiling texture, plastic sheeting, popcorn ceiling texture, process asbestos

Design A Cottage Style Kitchen

Cottage kitchen designs are comfortable and inviting.

Comfort is the key ingredient in designing a cottage kitchen. From the floor to the cabinets, the choices you make help you create the charm associated with this style. The secret to a winning look is finding a balance between an elegant and a rustic flair. Once you figure it out, you can design a kitchen that all your guests will love.

Instructions

1. Pick a cottage-style color palette. This is easier than it sounds because there is no specific color palette for cottage designs. Instead, look for certain shades and hues of your favorite colors. Go with muted colors that are soft to the eye and you can use just about any color you like. Pale green, light blue, dusty rose and yellow create a cozy mood.

2. Choose wooden floors for a pleasing cottage look. Natural pine and other light-colored woods are pleasing, but you can also go with laminate flooring for the same look and feel in your kitchen.

3. Select cabinetry that reflects the simple style of the cottage look. Light-colored woods are suitable because they often coordinate with lighter shades and hues. White cabinets are ideal because they brighten the kitchen. Another option for cabinets is glass doors. Open shelving is another look you can choose if you have dishes or antiques to display.

4. Select natural-looking countertops that enhance the color palette of your kitchen. If your kitchen colors are warm, you may want to go with a tan or beige countertop. Light gray matches cool color palettes. Granite countertops are ideal because they stand up under pressure and time, but laminates come in a variety of colors and they cost much less.

5. Accessorize with items that accentuate the cottage look. Hang stoneware to add character to your kitchen. Install brass hardware and fixtures for a polished look. Another option for fixtures is brushed copper. A coordinating armoire or china cabinet gives you a safe place to display collectables. Bring color into your kitchen with vases, flowers, towels, napkins and canisters.

6. Choose natural textures to give your kitchen a cozy look. Baskets are just the thing for keeping up with clutter. Jute and sisal rugs complete the design of your kitchen.

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Repaint A Tin Ceiling With Copper Paint

Copper paint changes a tin ceiling from old-fashioned to elegant.

Tin ceilings add a charming architectural touch to any room. With age, however, tin can begin to look dull and dingy. To counteract the natural effects of time, you can cover your ceiling tiles with a fresh coat of paint. Copper paint maintains the elegance of metal and also offers a hint of warmth. To make sure that the paint on your tin ceiling doesn't chip and peel, begin by applying a primer specially formulated for metal surfaces.

Instructions

1. Dust around the edge of the ceiling and near any light fixtures, using a feather duster. Use a ladder to reach the ceiling, if necessary.

2. Place a strip of tape along the top of the walls. Tape around the base of any hanging lamps.

3. Line the floor with a layer of drop cloths. If possible, use canvas drop cloths, which are less slippery than plastic versions.

4. Stand on a ladder to paint a strip of primer along the edge of the ceiling, using an angled brush. Avoid getting too much primer on the tape, or the primer might bleed underneath. Paint around light fixtures with your brush.

5. Roll the primer over the rest of the ceiling. You may need to use your brush to distribute the primer if the tin ceiling is heavily textured. You could also switch to a roller sleeve with a thicker nap.

6. Wait as long as the manufacturer of the primer recommends before coating the ceiling with copper paint. Paint bonds to primer better if you don't wait too long, though.

7. Work with another person to apply the copper paint, if possible. Each person should have her own ladder.

8. Apply the paint in areas of approximately 4 feet by 4 feet. Apply paint to the edges and other tight spots, using a brush. Roll out the rest of the square with a paint roller.

9. Dab the wet metallic paint with a soft ball of cheesecloth. This erases roller marks and leaves the ceiling with a soft, even sheen.

10. Apply the next section of paint while the edges of your last section are still wet. Painters refer to this as "leaving a wet edge." This prevents visible drying lines. Continue working until the whole ceiling is done.

11. Remove the tape. Paint any touch-ups with a small artist's brush.

Tags: Apply paint, brush Roll, ceiling with, copper paint, Copper paint, drop cloths, edge ceiling

Insulate A Suspended Ceiling

Rolled insulation is the best product to use for suspended ceilings.

Suspended ceilings are often used in basement refinishing jobs. They are relatively easy to install, and the choice of available ceiling tile gives you many choices in style and decor. Suspended ceilings are hung from the joists below the subfloor of the rooms above. If this area is not insulated, heating and cooling energy can be wasted. And the addition of insulation provides an extra sound barrier between the levels of the home.

Instructions

1. Put on work gloves and a dust mask to limit exposure to the fiberglass insulation.

2. Place a ladder under a corner ceiling tile. Push up on the corner of the ceiling tile, then angle the tile and drop it out of the suspended framework. Stack the tiles out of the way or in another room and continue until you remove all the tiles.

3. Position a roll of insulation at one corner of the room, so that the joists of the ceiling above the suspended ceiling are traveling away from you in parallel. Pull the end of the insulation roll up to the ceiling with the paper-covered side facing down. Work the roll of insulation across the ceiling until the end reaches the other side of the room.

4. Starting at the end of the room you just reached. Staple the paper edges of the insulation roll to the joists on either side of the insulation. Put a staple in every 3 to 4 inches to ensure a solid connection. Continue across the ceiling until you reach the other side. Cut the insulation with a utility knife and finish stapling the insulation between the joists.

5. Proceed to the next set of joists and continue adding insulation. Replace the ceiling tiles when you've finished installing the insulation.

Tags: ceiling tile, across ceiling, across ceiling until, ceiling until, corner ceiling, corner ceiling tile, insulation roll

Design A Doorless Walkin Shower

Large luxury doorless shower.

Doorless walk-in showers are perfect for people who want a cutting-edge design aesthetic or who need to have barrier-free access to a shower. There are two basic decisions to be made when designing a doorless walk-in shower. The first is whether you want to make the entire bathroom wet. This type of shower ignores water barriers, and all surfaces in the bathroom are designed to be waterproof. This is a favored design for small bathroom. The second choice is to design a contained shower that is large enough that water overspray cannot intrude on the rest of the bathroom.

Instructions

Designing A Doorless Walk-In Shower

1. Measure the selected bathroom to determine the square footage available to work with. For walls that will be kept, mark the existing walls as a solid 1/16th inch line on your graph paper. The graph paper scale will be ¼-inch per 1-foot. Draw walls that will be removed or changed using an open double dashed line (1/16th-inch between the double lines). The 1/16th size of the line on the paper should represent the thickness of the walls, which is four inches. Draw the existing fixtures as well (use the template for assistance).

2. Measure into any adjacent room if you intend to borrow additional space to add to the bathroom in to create the new shower. Be sure to mark existing doors (use a dashed line if the door will be moving, too). Mark this plan as the existing bathroom.

3. Overlay tracing paper on the existing bathroom plan and, using the straight edge, ruler and pencil, lightly sketch the perimeter walls of the intended new bathroom. To design a walk-in shower it is necessary to protect other bathroom surfaces from overspray. This can be done by building a shower in a natural niche in the bathroom. This might be an odd-shaped area that recesses at least three feet. If the overall bathroom is a box, the niche will have to be created.

4. Determine the spray radius of the selected shower fixture. If a rain-head type is being used, it will fan out at a certain distance depending on the height it is mounted. If a hand-held body wash type is being used, the tendency to spray water everywhere must be considered. For a barrier-free, curbless walk-in shower, the optimum minimal size is 4 feet-by-8 feet with an entry along one long side. Curbed showers that are not barrier free can be built as small as 4 feet-by-4 feet. Anything under four feet will feel cramped.

5. Sketch a box that would be 4 feet wide by 7 to 8 feet long on the tracing paper. Indicate where the shower fixture will go. Draw a thin double line to represent glass or a waterproof wall coming away from where the fixture mounts. This will create a water niche. This could be a tiled half wall with sheet glass above, a wall of glass blocks or be made entirely sheet glass, depending on preference. Allow for a 3-foot wide entry for wheelchair access.

6. Plan for a drain that is lower than the bathroom floor for curbless showers and for a slight slope to the floor as it nears the drainage area. If a ceiling mount fixture is being used, the wall between the shower and the bathroom will need to go to the ceiling. Otherwise, the side walls only need to be just above the shower head.

Tags: being used, bathroom This, dashed line, existing bathroom, graph paper

Decorate Crown Molding

Crown moldings dress up a room by enhancing the design and style of your home. Typically, crown moldings refer to the trimwork at top of the wall next to the ceiling. Choose a style and size of moldings based on the height of the ceiling, the dimensions of the room and the architectural style of your home. Trimwork pieces can be found in hardwood, pine, plastic and polyurethane. Many strategies can be used to decorate them to give added color or drama. This simple technique is elegant and timeless.

Instructions

Faux Painting Crown Moldings

1. If possible, ask to have the primer tinted a color close to your basecoat color. Paint the primer to seal your molding. Let dry.

2. Paint the molding black in small areas of 4 to 6 running feet. Use a soft rag to rub off the high spots of any decorative areas on the molding, being careful to keep the recessed areas black. Let dry.

3. Pour a small amount of metallic gold paint on one plate. Dip only one side of the sponge in the paint, and then offload paint on a dry plate. Keeping the sponge flat, move it across the high points of your molding. If the molding is fairly flat, dip a stiff brush into the gold paint and then lightly dry brush over the entire area to add gold highlights.

Tags: gold paint, paint plate, paint then, style your, style your home, your home, your molding

Remove Scratches From Wood Trim

Remove scratches from wood trim with sandpaper.

Wood trim around doors, windows and staircases can take a real beating. It gets scuffed up from shoes, fingernails, pets and objects carried in your hands. Small scratches can be disguised with stain markers or even buffed out. With deeper scratches, you need to sand down to the wood itself or sand the scratch completely out of the wood. Whatever level of damage your trim might have, it can be fixed with some products you can pick up at your local home improvement store.

Instructions

Deep Scratches

1. Tear the sandpaper in half, and then fold the sandpaper once. Press your fingers into the sandpaper, forcing it down into the profile of the trim, and begin sanding with the grain. Sand over the scratch until you have reached the bare wood. If the scratch is less than 1/16 inch deep, continue sanding until the scratch is gone.

2. Fill any scratch that is more than 1/16 inch deep with wood putty by forcing the putty into the crack with a putty knife. Let the putty dry for one hour.

3. Sand over the putty with the same piece of sandpaper that you have already formed into the profile. Sand the molding until the putty is flush with the wood.

4. Dip a soft cloth into stain and liberally apply it to the sanded area. Using a small paintbrush, artistically paint grain lines onto the putty.

5. Let the stain dry for one hour and then lightly spray the sanded area with lacquer.

Light Scratches

6. Gently rub over the surface of the scratch with fine steel wool.

7. Using a stain marker that matches the existing stain, draw along the scratch, and then immediately wipe the stain off with a soft cloth.

8. Examine the scratch. If you can still see it, use a putty stick in a matching color to rub over the scratch, letting the crayon-like putty fill the crack. Wipe off any residual putty with a soft cloth.

9. Spray the trim with furniture polish and buff to a satin finish with a soft cloth.

Tags: soft cloth, with soft, with soft cloth, inch deep, into profile

Refinish Bathroom Faucets

Bathroom Fixtures

Updating the look of your bathroom can give your home a new, more stylish look. One of the ways to give your bathroom a face-lift is by refinishing the faucets. Giving new life to old faucets that have been servicing your family for years is a project that you can finish in a matter of hours. You don't need a plumber to remove the handles from your sink, your tub or your shower. You do need the right materials, a little instruction and a bit of effort for your bathroom faucets to look like new again.

Instructions

1. Turn off the water supply to your faucets at the shut-off valves. Relieve the pressure in the faucets by turning on the hot and the cold faucets.

2. Remove the hot and cold supply tubes to the faucet with your adjustable wrench. Unscrew the nuts under the faucet with your basin wrench. You may need to use penetrating oil to get the nuts to turn. Make sure you are turning them the right way: remember lefty loosy, righty tighty. Remove the nuts and scrape away the old plumbers putty with a putty knife.

3. Remove the faucets, dry them, and place them on newspaper or plastic in a well ventilated area. Sand every inch of the faucet surface using a 220 grit sandpaper. If you miss a spot, the paint will not adhere to the faucet. Wipe the sanded faucets with a damp cloth and let them dry completely.

4. Spray an even coat of metal primer over your faucets and let it dry to the manufacturer's recommendations.

5. Spray an even coat of metal paint on the faucets and let it dry to the manufacturer's recommendations. Spray a second coat of paint and let it dry.

6. Spray a coat of lacquer topcoat for metal and let it dry. Then spray another layer of topcoat and let it dry.

7. Wrap all of the inlet fittings of your faucets with Teflon tape for a tight seal before reconnecting the hook-ups. Reconnect your faucets, applying plumber's putty as needed for a tighter seal. Turn the water back on and make sure you don't have any leaks.

Tags: your faucets, your bathroom, coat metal, even coat, even coat metal

Make A Drop Ceiling With Paneling

The process of creating a drop ceiling with paneling remains much the same as creating one with ready-made ceiling tiles. You'll need to hang a grid to provide a support system for the panels. After that, it's just a matter of choosing the panels desired, and then cutting them to fit before dropping them into the grids. The extra cutting will add to the installation time, but the results will give you precisely the look you want, without the ready-made tile limits.

Instructions

1. Mark the desired height of your ceiling onto the walls by attaching a chalkline onto the wall, checking that it's level using a carpenter's level, and then pulling the line away from the wall slightly and releasing it to snap against the wall leaving its mark. Make certain the mark is at the same level around the perimeter of the room. Leave space for the panel installation by placing the ceiling grid no closer than 6 inches from the ceiling joists.

2. Locate the wall studs along your ceiling line and mark the location of each with a piece of chalk. Run a stud finder over the wall along the ceiling line; and watch for an indicator light, or listen for a tone, which notes the location of a stud, depending on the model of finder used. Attach perimeter molding for your grid onto the walls with 6d nails driven through the molding and into the wall studs with a hammer. Cut the molding when necessary with tin snips.

3. Attach 16-gauge hanger wires from the ceiling joists, spacing the wires every 4 feet to support the long grid rails known as runners that make up the primary structure of your ceiling's gridwork. Use hanger wire screws to attach the wires from the joists and use wire cutters to cut the wires long enough to descend past the ceiling height from the joists plus an additional 3 inches.

4. Measure the room's length, and then cut the runner grid rails to fit using the tin snips. Attach the grid rails to the hanger wires, using pliers to bend the wires through the rail loops at the ceiling height. The runners should run parallel to one another, 4 feet apart down the length of the room after placement.

5. Place the cross tee bars between the runner bars, sliding them into the prepared slots in the bars to make 4-foot grid squares. Cut the cross tees to fit the partial spaces at the edges of the grid and connect them to the molding nailed to the wall to complete the grid creation.

6. Cut the panels into 4-foot squares using a table saw in order to fit the full-sized grid squares. Tilt the panels at an angle to push them through the bottom of the grid, and then straighten and lower them into the grid square from above to create a ceiling from them. Measure the partial squares along the edges of the grid and use the measurements to cut panels to fit with the table saw. Mount them into the grid in the same way.

Tags: them into, grid rails, your ceiling, ceiling height, ceiling joists

Build A Drywall Jack

The average sheet of drywall is 4 feet by 8 feet and weighs between 75 and 100 pounds, depending on the type of material used. Typically it is made of gypsum, which is laminated between two sheets of felt paper. A drywall jack can make it much easier to lift the sheets of drywall over your head and secure them while you nail the sheets to ceiling joists. A drywall jack can be built quickly with scrap materials that you probably have around the house and will only take 15-30 minutes to build.

Instructions

1. Measure one of the 2-inch by 4-inch wood studs with a measuring tape and cut a 2-foot length. Lay the 2 foot stud at a 90 degree angle across the end of the 8 foot stud, centered across the longer stud. The narrow side of the 2 foot stud should lay even with the end of the 8 foot stud.

See the image below for an example of how it will look when completed.

Prep A Bathroom Ceiling For Painting

It's all in the prep work.

The most important part of painting a bathroom ceiling is the prep work. If you thoroughly prep your ceiling before painting it, you can make a cracked, nicked, or moldy ceiling look like new again.

Instructions

1. Remove as many objects from the bathroom as you can or put them in the bathroom closet. They will get very dirty if you leave them out. Also, lay a tarp over the floor to make cleanup easier.

2. Open all windows and close the door to promote ventilation. If you have a bathroom fan, turn it on.

3. First you will need to remove any old paint that is still on the ceiling. Use the putty knife to scrap off as much of it as you can. Hold the knife at a low angle and don't scrap the ceiling too hard, or you may dig into the ceiling and create pits that you will have to plaster later.

4. Sand the ceiling to remove the remainder of the old paint. While you are sanding, remove any surface mold on the ceiling.

5. Use joint compound and apply it to any cracks or pits in the ceiling with a putty knife. Don't worry if it is not perfectly flat. Just make sure that the cracks and holes are filled.

6. Wait 24 hours for the compound to dry before sanding. Sand the surface with a 150-grit paper or finer to avoid scrape marks.

7. Use a wet cloth over the entire ceiling to gently wipe off the dust. If dust gets in the paint, it will not stick as easily. Now you are ready to paint.

Tags: prep work, putty knife

Paint Unfinished Ceilings

An unfinished ceiling has no texture and may show exposed rafters.

An unfinished ceiling is a ceiling that has not been completed with paint, plaster or texture. It may have bare sheet rock or wood. Although part of the finishing process for the ceiling is to cover it in plaster or texture, you can paint your unfinished ceiling instead. Painting an unfinished ceiling is not difficult. However, you will have to treat the ceiling so that the paint will adhere to it properly.

Instructions

1. Cover your floor with drop cloths to prevent any drips from ruining your floor.

2. Tape the walls of your home near the ceiling with masking tape to block sloppy brush work from transferring paint to your walls. Use a ladder to reach the ceiling.

3. Pour primer into a paint pan. Roll the primer onto a roller brush mounted to an extension stick. Roll the primer over the ceiling, working from the center of the room outward. Stop your roller brush just short of the wall. Climb a ladder and apply paint to the ceiling with a brush right up to the point where the ceiling meets the wall.

4. Apply a second coat of primer once the first coat is dry, after about an hour, using the same method. Follow this coating with two coatings of paint using the same methods. Allow each coat of paint or primer to dry for about an hour before applying the next coat.

5. Remove the masking tape from the walls once the paint is dry.

Tags: unfinished ceiling, about hour, ceiling that, ceiling with, masking tape, paint your

Install Wiring For Ceiling Fans & Lights

Use the ceiling fan and light kit to replace an existing light fixture for the easiest installation.

Installing a ceiling fan with modern ceiling fan and light kits can take anywhere from a few minutes to a few hours. The time depends on the type of construction you have in your home. For example, if you are replacing an old fan, the installation is simple because the necessary cables and holes are already in place. Regardless of the conditions, wiring the ceiling fan and lights to work properly is the easiest part of the process. In most cases, you will use the ceiling fan and light kit to replace an existing light fixture.

Instructions

1. Turn off the electricity at the main panel. Turn off the power to the entire home to ensure that the power is indeed off.

2. Remove the old light fixture. Many light fixtures have a cover that can be removed with a thumbscrew or screwdriver. The fixture itself may then be removed by unscrewing the mounting screws. Disconnect the light fixture cables from the power cables coming from the ceiling. This usually involves twisting the wire nuts connecting each set of cables counterclockwise. Set the old light fixture aside.

3. Mount the ceiling fan components. Follow the manufacturer's instructions to mount the mounting bracket, or base plate, and hook. Each model is slightly different, but most require you to fasten the mounting bracket to the ceiling beam nearest the location of the old light fixture with the provided mounting screws.

4. Hang the motor assembly, without the blades attached, from the ceiling hanger.

5. Strip 1 inch of insulation from the fan cables with the wire strippers.

6. Splice the fan cables to the power cables in the ceiling junction box. All fan and light kits have 3 cables and a ground wire. The black and white cables are the hot and neutral cables, respectively. The green cable is the ground wire. The light cable is usually red, black and white, or blue. Insert the stripped end of the fan's white cable and the white cable from the ceiling into a wire nut and twist the nut clockwise to splice the cables together. Repeat this process with the green fan cable and the green or bare copper cable from the ceiling.

7. Determine which type of switch combination the room features. Some newer homes are prewired with a double switch to control a light and a fan separately. Older homes may have a single switch to toggle both on and off at the same time. The former has an extra wire, usually red, coming from the ceiling junction box. The latter has a single black cable.

8. Connect the remaining fan wires. In a double-switch configuration, splice the black wires from the fan kit and the ceiling together with a wire nut as described previously. Repeat the process to splice the red ceiling cable to the light cable in the fan kit. Tuck the wires into the junction box.

9. Follow the manufacturer's instructions to finish the fan installation. Secure the mounting plate to the ceiling with the mounting screws. Attach the fan blades with the screws included with the kit.

10. Turn on the electricity at the main panel. Use the switches to control the fan and light.

Tags: from ceiling, light fixture, ceiling light, mounting screws, black white

Troubleshoot A Harbor Breeze Ceiling Fan

You may be able to repair your malfunctioning ceiling fan without much effort.

The Harbor Breeze line of ceiling fans is offered exclusively at Lowe's home improvement stores. As the Lowe's store brand ceiling fan, these fans give consumers the opportunity to purchase an attractive-looking fan without paying name-brand prices. If your Harbor Breeze ceiling fan begins to fail, you may be able to save time and fix it yourself before contacting the store or company for service or advice.

Instructions

Fan Not Moving

1. Check your home's fuse box or circuit breaker to make sure the fan has power. Replace the fuse or flip the breaker, if necessary.

2. Turn on the electrical switch that controls the fan unit, if your ceiling fan uses one.

3. Pull the fan control chain that hangs from the unit to make sure the fan is turned on.

4. Flip the fan reversal switch in either direction to make sure it is engaged. The switch is located just below the fan blades.

Fan Movement Unsteady

5. Tighten all screws attaching the fan blades to the mounting brackets, turning them clockwise with a Phillips screwdriver. Turn the fan on to see whether it still wobbles.

6. Turn the fan off if it still wobbles. Unscrew the screws holding one fan blade to the mounting bracket, turning them counter-clockwise with the Phillips screwdriver. Remove the blade.

7. Remove a fan blade on the opposite side from the one you already removed in the same manner.

8. Switch the two fan blades and reattach them to the mounting brackets. Align the screw holes in the blades with the holes in the mounting brackets, and screw them back in, turning clockwise with the Phillips screwdriver. This should balance the blades if the unsteadiness was caused by unbalanced fan blades.

Tags: Harbor Breeze, make sure, mounting brackets, Phillips screwdriver, with Phillips

Connect Existing Wiring To A Lighting Fixture

Connecting existing wiring to a new light fixture is not difficult. The hardest part of the job is finding the right wire in which to connect the fixture. It is also important not to add the fixture to a circuit that is already loaded.

Instructions

1. Determine what is on each electrical circuit by turning off a breaker and making a list of what is not working. Electrical plugs can be checked with a table lamp. Attach the light fixture to the circuit with the least load. Leave the breaker turned off on the circuit that you intend to use.

2. Connect 12-2 non-metallic sheathed cable to the circuit you have chosen. This connection can be made in an existing outlet box over a light fixture or a wire can be cut in the attic and the ends connected to the new wire with wire nuts. Before cutting the wire, make sure there is enough slack for reconnecting. A junction box must be nailed to a rafter and the connections made inside the junction box. Connect black wire to black, white to white and all bare copper wires together.

3. Run the newly connected cable to the outlet box where the light fixture will be attached. If a wall switch is to be used, run a piece of cable between the outlet and switch boxes. Attach the black wire to the bronze screw on the switch, the white wire to the silver screw and the bare copper wire to the green screw.

4. Connect the white wire from the switch to the black wire on the light fixture. Connect the black wire from the circuit connection to the black wire from the switch. If a wall switch is not used, connect the black wire from the circuit connection to the black wire on the fixture. Regardless of whether a wall switch is used, connect all white wires together and all bare copper wires. Use wire nuts to make the connections.

Tags: black wire, light fixture, wire from, bare copper, black wire from, switch used

Children'S Bathroom Decorating Ideas

Creating a child's bathroom can be easy. Choose a theme that will last several years. Rinse cups, toothbrush holder, soap dish and trash can are all a must. Keep cleaning supplies out of the bathroom. Store a plunger by the toilet. Cover a coffee can with contact paper and set the plunger inside to keep off floor.

Under the Sea

The ocean theme will last a few years. Hang a blue shower curtain and blue curtains on windows. Paint the walls tan. Use a fish border. Purchase either fish-themed bath accessories or blue ones. Hang pictures of the ocean.

The Beach

Paint the walls a soft brown. Hang a themed or sunset-colored shower curtain. Use shell-colored or tan bath accessories. Decorate walls with seashell pictures and boarder. Set a bowl of seashells on the back of the toilet tank or on a shelf.

Colors and Shapes

Paint the walls white or off-white. Hang a shower curtain with a shape print. Use brightly colored bath accessories. Paint or hang a boarder that matches the shower curtain.

Tags: shower curtain, bath accessories, Paint walls, will last

Build An Armstrong Ceiling

Using Armstrong ceiling tiles to cover an unsightly ceiling is a practical way to fix the problem. Installation is simple for a do-it-yourselfer with moderate skills. With the wide variety of Armstrong ceiling tiles available on the market today, you don't have to settle for plain white tiles. Many textures and colors are available to suit any decor. You need at least 3 inches of clearance between the ceiling joists and the ceiling tile frame so you can slip the tiles into the frame.

Instructions

1. Locate the joists in the ceiling with a stud finder. Mark the center of each joist with a chalk line. Most joists are 16 inches on center. If the joists are exposed, skip this step.

2. Measure the length of one of the ceiling tiles in feet. Measure the room perpendicular to the joists in feet. Divide the room's measurement by the length of the tile. If there is a remainder, divide that amount by 2. This amount is the width of the border panels. By putting two narrow rows on the outside of the room, the ceiling has a balanced look.

3. Calculate the width of a ceiling tile in feet. Measure the room parallel to the ceiling joists. Divide that amount by the tile's width. If there's a remainder, divide it by 2 to find the size of the two outer rows for this portion of the ceiling.

4. Make a level line around the perimeter of the room at the height where you plan to install the ceiling with a laser or carpenter's level. Mark the line with chalk.

5. Set perimeter molding so the bottom of the molding rest on the line you marked on the wall. Attach perimeter molding to the wall studs with nails. Take care not to damage the molding as you drive the nails into position.

6. Snap a chalk line perpendicular to the ceiling joists, following the measurements you determined in Step 2. This is where you will hang the main runners for the suspended ceiling.

7. Attach wire fasteners to the ceiling joists every 4 feet along the chalk lines you snapped perpendicular to the joists. Insert hanger wire into the eye of each wire fastener and twist the wire three times around itself to secure it in place.

8. Stretch three or four strings across the room perpendicular to the ceiling joists from the perimeter molding. Keep the string taut as you secure it. The string is your guideline for the ceiling's height as you install the main runners.

9. Set a piece of main runner onto the perimeter molding and use the chalk line on the joists as your guide. Insert a hanger wire into the hole in the main runner to suspend the runner from the ceiling. Twist the wire onto itself three times to secure it in place. Continue to work your way across the room, securing wires at 4-foot intervals. Keep the main runners aligned with your string guide. Add another piece of main runner, as necessary, by sliding the two pieces together and securing their locking system. Cut any excess off the main runner on the opposite side of the room with a pair of tin snips.

10. Place the remaining main runners in place by following the joist markings. Set any ends you cut into the perimeter molding.

11. Measure the distance for the first cross tee, according to your calculations from Step 3. Hook the cross tee into position on the main runners. Complete that row in a similar manner by crossing main runners at right angles. Set the next row of cross tees at the width of the ceiling tiles. Continue placing all of the cross tees into the main runners.

12. Tilt and insert a ceiling tile into one of the center openings on the ceiling grid. Set the tile into position. Repeat for three adjacent tiles in the center openings. If the grid is slightly off-center, shake it slightly until all four of the tiles settle into their slots.

13. Place all of the remaining ceiling tiles. Cut tiles along the outer perimeter to fit with a utility knife.

Tags: main runners, ceiling joists, ceiling tiles, perimeter molding, main runner

Build And Install An Ez Solid Wood Ceiling

A solid White Pine ceiling in my office

How about a beautiful, easy to build, possibly economical wood ceiling? When I built my office here in the country I wanted to use as much wood as possible, and so made all of the ceilings of solid wood. The ease of construction is just as appealing as the inherent beauty of the wood. You can use new wood, old wood, narrow wood, wide wood - whatever you wish. You can mix different types of wood and some of it can even be painted pieces salvaged from demolished structures. In fact old gray barn boards are very attractive when mixed randomly with white or yellow pine. Pieces of lumber too short for other projects can make a ceiling board or two. Take a look at the ease of construction.

Instructions

1. Nail the quarter round to each side of the 1 x 4's that will be used to strip your joists. It is good if you precut an assembly of 1 x 4's to fit a joist. It's easier to nail the quarter round to the 1x4's on a saw horse or table than up on a ladder.

2. Strip the bottom edge of your ceiling joists with 1 x 4's, centering the width of the 1 x 4 on the width of the joist so that and equal amount projects out each side of the joist. It is important to keep these as straight and even as practical so ceiling boards can always have a ledge to rest on. Note: The assumption here is that the ceiling joists are '2' nom width (1.5in in reality) if your joist are wider then you will have to rip strips that are the width of your joist plus say 1.5in per each side of the joist)

3. Measure and cut one or two ceiling boards for a trial fit up. Place one of these into the space between two joists, inserting it diagonally up so you can get it between the narrowest space (between the opposing pieces of quarter round) The batt insulation (assuming it exists) can just be pushed up with the top end of the board until the bottom end can be swung up past the quarter round on the other side. The attached sketch makes this verbiage a little clearer.

4. Once you are able to lay the board flat on the 1 x 4 ledges, shift it all the way against the face of one of the joists. The other end should still be hidden, and be beyond the edge of the quarter round. If that end can drop past the quarter round the board is too short and it could (will!) drop out. One carpenter I hired didn't follow my instructions and some boards in my ceiling dropped out, and longer ones had to be cut. Fortunately this was as easy as the original installation.

Tags: quarter round, each side, ceiling boards, ceiling joists, each side joist, ease construction, past quarter

Height Requirement For Heat Detectors

Heat detectors sense the rise in temperature, not smoke.

Heat detectors are often used in conjunction with smoke detectors, however, they only sense heat produced by combustion. Heat detectors are generally mounted on the ceiling, so height requirements reflect local zoning codes for ceiling height. While height requirements depend on local jurisdictions, spacing requirements fall under federal guidelines.

Heat Detectors

The heat detector's alarm sounds whenever there is a quick rise in temperature. reached. These detectors must conform to the standards of the National Protection Association. Heat detectors contain a thermal sensor set at a fixed temperature, or a combination of fixed temperature or rate rise sensor. In most heat detectors, the temperature must rise to either 135 degrees or 194 degrees F to trigger the alarm. The rate rise detectors trigger an alarm at an increase of 15 degrees F per minute.

Spacing

On smooth ceilings, heat detectors should be placed between 50 square feet or 2,500 square feet apart, according to the National Fire Alarm Code. The difference in spacing depends on air movements and the ceiling height. As ceiling height increases, the spacing between heat detectors is reduced. The manufacturer also lists the area the product can protect on its specifications and instructions.

Other Ceilings

Not all ceilings are smooth. Different types of ceilings have different requirements for heat detector spacing. For joisted ceilings, reduce the heat detector's spacings by 50 percent perpendicular to the joists. For beamed ceilings, reduce the spacing by one-third perpendicular to the beams. The heat detector may be mounted on either the ceiling or the beam. For smooth peaked ceilings, install the device within 3 inches of the peak. For peaked joisted ceilings, also install the detector within 3 inches of the joist but reduce spacing by 50 percent perpendicular to the joists.

Testing

Heat detector spacing is based upon performance results during testing. The test ceiling height for heat detectors is 15 foot and 9 inches in a room with very low air movement. The National Fire Alarm Code provides information for spacing for various ceiling heights as well as a formula for making calculations. If installing heat detectors on new construction, refer to local zoning codes for height requirements or consult with the local construction official.

Tags: ceiling height, heat detector, heat detectors, height requirements, Alarm Code, ceilings reduce

Install Insulation Around Electrical Wiring

Install insulation in front of and behind electrical wiring.

Insulation is important to have in each of your home's exterior walls. Many times, these walls will have electrical wiring running through them. If you were to lay the insulation over the wires, you would be left with an air gap between the back of the insulation and the exterior wall. This air gap would fill with cold air which would eventually find a way into your home. Insulating both behind and in front of the wire fills this gap and provides better protection.

Instructions

1. Measure the wall gap from the bottom plate to the top plate. Lay a piece of insulation on a flat work surface. Transfer the measurement you took to the insulation and make a small mark with a utility knife.

2. Lay a level on the insulation, lining up the level's edge with the utility knife mark you made in Step 1. Press down on the level to compact the insulation. Cut through the insulation with a utility knife, using the level as a straight edge.

3. Insert the insulation into the wall cavity between the wall studs. If your insulation has a paper vapor barrier, open the barrier's side flanges and lay them over the wall studs. Staple the flanges' upper portion to the wall studs.