Electrically Hook Up A Bathroom Light

Wiring a bathroom light involves basic electrical wiring skills. The wiring consists of three wires: black (hot), white (neutral), and green (ground), which will connect to the existing wiring in the wall. Once the wiring connections are made and the light is connected to the electrical box, the only thing left is screwing in the bulbs and enjoying your new light fixture.

Instructions

1. Turn the power to the bathroom off at the main service panel. Use the electronic probe tester to touch the wires and double-check that they are off. If the tester does not light up or emit a sound, the wires are safe to work on.

2. Strip the ends of the existing wiring in the bathroom if needed, using the wire strippers. There should be about 1 inch of bare wire on the ends to connect to the wiring on the back of the new light. Check the three wires on the back of the light fixture and strip those if needed.

3. Place the rubber seal from the mounting kit over the back or rear of the light fixture. The seal will follow the shape of the outside of the fixture and help keep any moisture from entering the fixture.

4. Twist the same color wires together clockwise. Twist black to black, white to white, and green to green/bare. Once each connection is made, twist on a wire nut to the each of each connection to secure the same color wires together and to protect the ends of the wire from make contact with anything. Twist the wire nuts clockwise.

5. Slide a washer on onto each screw from the kit, and insert the screws into each of the mounting holes on the light fixture. Hold the fixture up to the existing electrical box in the wall and line up the holes. Screw each screw into the holes with a screwdriver to secure the fixture in place to the wall.

6. Screw in a light bulb into each socket on the fixture. Turn the power back on at the service panel. Turn the light switch on and test for power.

Tags: light fixture, back light, black white, color wires, color wires together

Convert A Light Into A Motion Sensor

Convert any light into a motion sensor light.

Anyone who can change a light bulb is capable of turning any light into a motion sensor light. This task can be accomplished simply by inserting a motion light sensor into the light socket on existing fixtures. Motion light sensors can be used indoors or outdoors on any type of light fixture. Light fixtures with multiple light bulbs usually require a motion light sensor on each light socket in order to give each light independent motion-sensing capabilities.

Instructions

1. Drape a lint free cloth over the light bulbs in the existing fixture and grip the top of the bulb. The cloth helps protect the bulb from oils on your hand, which could damage the light bulb and cause it to break. Gently rotate the bulb counterclockwise to remove the bulb from the fixture.

2. Insert the end of the motion light sensor into the light socket. The end of the motion light sensor looks just like the bottom of a light bulb, and it installs the same way as a light bulb. Rotate the motion light sensor clockwise until it doesn't rotate anymore.

3. Screw the light bulb into the top of the motion light sensor. Rotate the bulb clockwise until it doesn't rotate anymore.

4. Flip the setting switch on the motion light fixture to the "On" position, and leave it in that position as long as you want the light to turn on when the motion sensor detects movement. The light will turn off automatically when the motion sensor no longer detects movement.

Tags: light sensor, motion light sensor, light bulb, motion light, motion sensor

Stage A Master Bathroom

Stage your master bath to attract buyers.

Real estate professionals often say that kitchens and bathrooms sell homes. Many home buyers put great importance on the master bath, since it is where they will retreat for relaxation after a long day of work. When preparing your home to place it on the real estate market, update your d cor and fixtures in your master bathroom in a way that will make potential buyers eager to purchase the property.

Instructions

1. Give the master bathroom a thorough cleaning. Dirty, used-looking bathrooms repel home buyers. Remove any personal items, such as skin care products or toothbrushes. By putting them out of sight, you depersonalize the space so that home buyers can imagine themselves and their personal items in the space.

2. Shine all of the hardware on the sink and tub to make them look new. Replace them if they have blemishes that cannot be polished away.

3. Give an old tub or sink a coat of epoxy paint to cover rust or scratches. Apply fresh, clean caulking around these fixtures.

4. Use a neutral palate with a hint of color that will appeal to a multitude of home buyers. Coordinate the towels, rugs and shower curtains with the d cor in the master bedroom to make the space feel like a cohesive master suite.

5. Organize the closets and cabinets. Home buyers often open these spaces to get an idea of how much storage space the master bath has. When clean and uncluttered, these spaces tend to look larger.

6. Give the master bathroom a feeling of a spa retreat or luxury hotel bath by placing items such as candles, luxury soap and mini hotel samples on the vanity. Place a large basket filled with attractively rolled fluffy towels on the floor near the tub. Include items such as a bath brush or natural sponges to give the bathroom a spa-like environment.

7. Play visual tricks with the space. Leave the shower door open to make the master bath look larger. If your bath has a large tub, place a mirror in the area to visually expand the space.

Tags: home buyers, master bath, items such, master bathroom, Give master

Insulate A Drop Ceiling

Lighter, less expensive and less time consuming to install than drywall, drop ceilings can be installed in any room to add noise-dampening qualities, hide exposed joists and pipes or just to give the room a different feel. Forgot to insulate the ceiling beforehand? Insulating a drop ceiling can be done after the ceiling is up, if necessary.

Instructions

1. Remove the ceiling tiles from the grid. Press gently on one side of the tile, lift, twist at a slight angle and pull down and out of the metal grid. Take your time and be careful not to damage the tiles as you remove them. Store the tiles in a safe place away from the work area.

2. Cut open the bag of insulation and pull out the strips of insulation with your razor knife. Slide a strip of insulation into the ceiling grid with the paper side down (facing you). Work the insulation into the ceiling between the joists above. Cut the insulation with your razor knife to fit the ceiling length and to fit around any obstacles.

3. Press the strips of insulation so that the paper is even with the bottom of the joists above (where the ceiling grid wires are attached). Staple the paper tabs on the insulation to the bottom of the joists with your staple gun. Place a staple on each side every 12 to 15 inches.

4. Replace your ceiling tiles into the grid. Hold the tile at an angle and gently slide it into and above the grid. Lay it flat and lower it back down into proper position on the grid. Be careful not to damage the tiles during installation.

Tags: with your, bottom joists, careful damage, careful damage tiles, ceiling grid, ceiling tiles, damage tiles

Paint Chandelier Globes

You can paint over chandelier globes for a unique aesthetic.

Chandeliers give dining rooms and entryways a classical aesthetic. From opulent hanging chandeliers to more minimalistic fluted chandeliers, the decorative silhouette is part of this light fixture's bold statement. Aside from the overall shape of the chandelier, the colorization is also important. Chandeliers provide a focal point for the room, so they should complement wall and furniture colors. You can update the look of a mismatched chandelier with fresh paint on the glass globes that cover chandelier light bulbs.

Instructions

1. Place an A-frame ladder beneath the chandelier.

2. Climb the ladder and remove the chandelier globes. Most chandelier globes are fastened in place with three or four small screws.

3. Place the chandelier globes on several pages of scrap newspaper.

4. Clean the surface with water, soap and a sponge. Though chandelier globes do not come in contact with excessive dirt, thin layers of dust buildup are common.

5. Dry the chandelier globe surfaces with a paper towel

6. Apply painter's tape to any parts of the globe that you don't want painted. If you paint the entire globe, barely any light will shine through the surface, so consider just painting a small portion of the chandelier globe.

7. Prime the globes with bonding primer and a synthetic-bristle paintbrush. Bonding primer is designed to adhere to glass, ceramic, acrylic and other slick surfaces. Wait for the primer to dry.

8. Paint the chandelier globes with semi-gloss or high-gloss latex paint. Use a foam paintbrush to avoid unsightly brushstrokes.

9. Climb the ladder and reattach the globes after the paint has dried for a full 24 hours.

Tags: chandelier globes, chandelier globe, chandelier globes, Climb ladder, globes with

Decorate A Modern Room For A Teen Girl

If your daughter is outgrowing the pink walls, lace curtains, flowers, butterflies and fairies that currently decorate her room, then it's probably time for a modern update for your teen girl. While individual style, color choices and preferences may vary, there are some basic guidelines you can follow to decorate a fabulous, up-to-date room for your young lady.

Instructions

1. Work from top to bottom. Start with the ceiling of your teen's room, which is often the most overlooked "wall" in a space. Choose a color that coordinates with the walls in a high gloss or even metallic finish for added drama.

2. Paint the walls. This is perhaps the most important step in decorating a modern teenager's room, even though it follows the ceiling, because it provides the backdrop and mood for the whole room. Go with the teen's favorite bold colors and don't be afraid to mix it up by painting each wall a different color, giving the room that eclectic, modern feel.

3. Choose an original headboard. Since the focal point of any girl's room is the bed, her headboard needs to be eye-catching and fun. To keep the look modern, skip the four-posters and pick something with clean lines, creating your own and adorning it with funky fabric or paint if you can't find the one you want in stores.

4. Add other furnishings. A modern teen girl's room needs a decent workspace where she can do homework and use her computer. In addition, a dresser or armoire and a bedside table are necessities. Again, stick with clean lines, maybe some Lucite toppers and definitely nothing ornate.

5. Decorate with bedding and window treatments. The fabrics you choose to decorate the room should be durable but also coordinate with the paint colors and each other. Teen girls love glamour, so splurge a bit on fun patterns in gauzy sheers or rich velvet.

6. Provide storage solutions. Gone are the wicker baskets, tubs and toy chests; in their places are colorful storage bins and drawers on rollers. They come in a variety of sizes and the chrome gives the units a modern edge.

7. Accessorize with your teen's needs in mind. This last step is the most fun because it involves a lot of shopping for cool stuff like mirrors, bulletin boards, lamps, chairs, area rugs, throw pillows, artwork and maybe a candle or two. Here's where you can make a huge modern impact by choosing bold colors and silver or chrome finishes, steering clear of warm woods and floral patterns.

Tags: your teen, bold colors, clean lines, decorate room, girl room, with clean

Join Crown Molding Invisibly

While you can get crown molding in lengths all the way up to 16 feet, the easiest length for most of us to handle (and the most common length) is 8 feet. The problem with these shorter lengths is lots of walls are longer than 8 feet, so your choice is either to wrestle with a longer piece or join a couple of shorter pieces and ensure the joint isn't visible. Here's join lengths of crown molding invisibly.

Instructions

1. Ensure that you understand how crown molding is designed to work. When you look at a piece of crown molding the back edges are angled. This is because crown molding is designed to fit into the angle to fit into the angle between the wall and the ceiling. One edge will fit against the ceiling while the other fits against the wall. For this reason you don't cut crown molding from the front, but from the back. You lay the molding down on the molded side and cut from the smooth side.

2. Make a couple of practice cuts on a piece of scrap molding. Set your saw angle to 45 degrees; position the molding upside down and hold it firmly against the fence on your miter saw before making your cut.

3. Remember, you will need to make two 45-degree cuts, one open to the right and one open to the left.

4. Measure your wall to determine how long each of your pieces needs to be cut. Don't just divide the wall in two and plan on cutting each piece to be half of the length. That will place the seam right in the middle of the wall, and people's eyes are drawn to the middle of the wall.

5. Mentally divide the length of the wall into two uneven lengths to make the seam invisible. For example, if your wall is 12 feet long, make one piece of molding 5 feet long and the other 7 feet.

6. Carefully measure your first piece of molding and make your cut, then install it.

7. Position your second piece over the installed molding and mark EXACTLY where the front of the molding piece should be cut.

8. Reverse the angle of your saw and make your second cut.

9. Spread wood glue on the open areas of the molding pieces and install the second piece. Use a couple of finishing nails driven through the overlapping sections to hold them in place.

10. Allow the glue to dry, countersink the nails and fill in the nail holes, then joint line with Spackle.

Tags: crown molding, crown molding designed, feet long, into angle, make your, middle wall, molding designed

Cut Fluorescent Ceiling Panels

Fluorescent light panels brighten rooms and can add a little life to a home. These panels can create special effects on a ceiling and make an old room look new. For them to fit properly in any room, you likely will need to cut these panels. Cutting panels may seem like a daunting task, but when you take careful measures you can cut with little or no trouble.

Instructions

1. Measure the size of the ceiling light panel with a tape measure. Make a mark on the panel with a black marker so it is clearly visible. Lay a T-square across the panel and place masking tape along the T-square where you are going to make the cut. Mark the center of the tape with a black marker exactly where you are going to make the cut. This will help ensure that you make the proper cut safely and without injury.

2. Lay the panel on a table so it is flat on a solid surface that will not sway when you cut. Cover the area that you are not going to cut. Use a nylon sheet to avoid scratches and other damage to the rest of the panel.

3. Line up the hacksaw where you are going to make the cut and push down firmly on the panel. Begin cutting in swift straight motions, making sure to stay on the line. Cut through the entire panel without stopping. Pull back and remove the saw from the ceiling light panel when you finish.

4. Brush off any shards that remain from the cut, using a rag. This will help smooth out the surface. Measure to make sure you made the proper cut and tat the piece is the exact size you need.

Tags: going make, where going, where going make, black marker, ceiling light, ceiling light panel, light panel

Decorate A Guest Bathroom

Your guest bedroom is perfect. Your job of making your guests feel comfortable and at home is almost complete. Now it's time to turn your attention to the guest bathroom. Decorating a guest bathroom is much like decorating any other bathroom, except there are a few additional touches that you should add.

Instructions

1. Paint the walls of your guest bathroom in neutral colors such as taupe, creams and ivory. This will make your bathroom more universally appealing.

2. Add color with accessories for your guest bathroom. Consider using browns, blues and soft yellows for the towels, bath mat, shower curtain and the like. Those colors will pop against the neutral walls. Add fresh flowers to the counter.

3. Use decorative baskets that complement the colors you have selected to store those items that guests often forget, such as toothbrushes, razors and soaps. Make sure that extra towels are easily accessible.

4. Add storage to your guest bathroom. Use a decorative clothes hamper and shower organizers in which to hold shampoos, conditioners and other necessities. Leave additional baskets for your guests.

Tags: guest bathroom, your guest bathroom, your guest, your guests

Install The Rails For A Drop Ceiling

Grid rails support the ceiling tiles in a drop ceiling.

Many homeowners choose to install drop ceilings when they finish their basements. Purchase all the necessary supplies at your local home builder's supply store, then install them yourself, which saves a lot of money. A drop ceiling works in a grid system. Each ceiling tile rests in one grid square. A straight and level drop ceiling requires you to pay close attention to how you install the grid rails. If the rails are off, the ceiling will look warped and crooked.

Instructions

1. Measure the room's length and width. Use these measurements to determine the grid placement. For example, if your room is 10 feet (or 120 inches) long and you are using the 2-by-2 foot ceiling tiles (i.e. 24 inches square), you would divide 120 by 24 to get 5. You would need five ceiling tiles to span the room's length.

2. Measure 3 to 6 inches below the ceiling joists and place a mark on one of the walls at this height. The amount of space you need above the grid rails depends largely on the type of lighting you plan to use.

3. Set up a laser level in the center of the room. Aim the laser at the mark you made in Step 2. Run a stud finder along the laser line to locate all the wall studs.

4. Lift a piece of wall molding rail against the wall. Hold the wall molding so the back rests flat against the wall and the bottom points out toward the room's center. Align the wall molding's bottom edge with the laser line. Secure the wall molding to the wall studs with nails. Butt the wall moldings' edges up when you reach an inside corner. Cut the wall moldings' edges at a 45-degree angle, with a tin snips, when you reach an outside corner.

5. Place a mark above the wall molding, on either side of the room, to indicate the location of the first main beam. The main beams run perpendicular to the ceiling joists. Hold a chalk line across the room, connecting the marks you just made, and snap it across the ceiling joists. Move the length of a ceiling tile down the ceiling and snap another chalk line. Continue until you reach the room's opposite end.

6. Hammer a wire fastener into the chalk line on each ceiling joist. Add 12 inches to the ceiling drop. For example, if you installed your wall molding at 4 inches, you would add 12 and 4 to get 16. Cut hanging wire, with a tin snips, to this length. You need one wire for each wire fastener.

7. Put a hanging wire 6 inches through a wire fastener. Twist the wire around itself three times, with a pliers, to secure it in place. Repeat with the remaining hanging wires and fasteners.

8. Measure 7/8 inches up from your wall molding's top edge. Aim the laser level at this measurement. Bend each hanging wire, with a pliers, into an L on the spot where the laser hits it.

9. Insert a tape measure's metal tab into the first side slot in the first main beam. Measure from the slot toward the main beam's nearest end to mark the width of the first ceiling tile. Cut the main beam at this mark with a tin snips by first cutting the back, then bending it down and cut it off. If you are installing a full ceiling tile at the edge, skip this step.

10. Lift the main beam up and rest its edges on the wall molding. Center it under the chalk line across the ceiling joists. Insert the bent hanger wire through the holes near the main beam's top edge. Bend the wire up and wrap it around itself to secure it in place. Repeat Steps 9 and 10 for the remaining chalk lines. If your room is longer than the main beam, connect two beams together with the tabs at their ends.

11. Push the cross tees tabs into the slots in the main beam's sides. Cross tees should be approximately 2 feet apart. Check that the grid is square by measuring diagonally from corner to corner. If both measurements are the same, the grid is square.

Tags: main beam, wall molding, ceiling joists, ceiling tile, chalk line

Wire A Bathroom Light From An Outlet

Update your bathroom's decor with new lighting.

If you're looking to update and improve the decor of your bathroom, adding new lighting is an excellent way to begin. When adding a new light, one of the key considerations is provide electrical power to the lighting fixture. Tapping into an existing electrical outlet is a logical and simple way to solve your problem.

Instructions

1. Turn off the electricity to the circuit you'll be working on by turning off the circuit breaker. Check to make sure you've turned off the correct circuit breaker by plugging a lamp or other electrical device into the outlet you'll be using, and noting when it turns off. Inform other members of the household you'll be working on the circuit and instruct them not to turn it on without your permission.

2. Determine the location for your bathroom light. The light will need the support of a stud if mounted on the wall, or a joist if mounted in the ceiling, so plan accordingly. In roughed-in construction, you can find these easily. If you're working with a finished room, use a stud finder to locate an appropriately place stud or joist. Cut an opening for the light with a keyhole saw, sizing it according to the directions supplied with your particular fixture.

3. Remove the cover for the electrical outlet by taking out the face plate's center screw. Undo the screws at the top and bottom of the outlet and pull it out of the gang box

4. Route a length of two-conductor electrical wiring from the light fixture location to your electrical outlet. In roughed-in construction, route it along the simplest, most direct path and secure the wire with cable staples. In finished construction you may have a more difficult job. In most cases you can route the wire between existing joists, then drop it down the wall to the electrical outlet.

5. Pull several inches of the wiring into the gang box and out the front of the electrical outlet's gang box. Remove 1/2 inch of insulation from each of the wire's leads with a set of wire strippers. Loosen the unused silver and brass colored screws, one on either side of the outlet. Place the wire with the white jacket under the silver screw and tighten, and the black-jacketed wire under the brass screw and tighten.

6. Mount your light onto the joist or stud you've chosen, according to the directions supplied with the light. Strip 1/2 inch of insulation from the electrical wire's leads and attach them to the two conductors of the light's electrical connections. These will be either screws, as in Step 5, or short lengths of color coded wire. If the latter, match the colors of the wire and twist a wire nut over the connections.

7. Turn the circuit's power back on and test the light (make sure the light is "on" if it has its own switch). If it works, turn the power back off, remount the electrical outlet in the gang box and replace the cover. If it doesn't work, turn the power off and check the wiring connections.

Tags: electrical outlet, your bathroom, according directions, according directions supplied, circuit breaker

Change A Fluorescent Light In A Ceiling Fan

Ceiling fans can help keep your home cool. A light fixture can be attached to the fan to provide additional light. The type of light bulb used depends on the model and specifications of the ceiling fan. Fluorescent lighting is bright and will burn out after continuous use. Change a fluorescent light in a ceiling fan when the old light goes out or becomes damaged.

Instructions

1. Turn off the circuit supplying power to the ceiling fan from the circuit panel. The circuit panel is usually in a basement, garage or kitchen area. Wait 10 to 15 minutes before touching the light to ensure it is cool.

2. Place a ladder just below the ceiling fan.

3. Climb the ladder and unscrew the screws that secure the ceiling fan.

4. Remove the fan and set aside.

5. Remove the lens or diffuser that fits over the light bulb. Push the lens up and tilt to remove.

6. Turn the light counterclockwise to remove from the fixture.

7. Insert the replacement light into the fixture. Turn the light clockwise to secure it in place.

8. Place the lens or diffuser over the light bulb and push to secure.

9. Place the fan blades back over the light and screw in place.

10. Turn on the circuit supplying power to the ceiling fan and turn on the light switch that controls the light.

Tags: light bulb, over light, circuit panel, circuit supplying, circuit supplying power, lens diffuser, over light bulb

Bathroom Improvement Ideas For Teens

Double sinks can be a time saver in a bathroom shared by teens.

If you have teenagers in your home, you have likely spent many mornings waiting for them to vacate the bathroom so you can have your turn. Designating a bathroom specifically for their use can help save time and help keep the peace in your family. If you are thinking of redesigning a bathroom for your teens, there are several improvements that you may want to consider to make the space more convenient and functional for your kids.

Add a Double Sink

When two or more teenagers share a bathroom, there may be fights over whose turn it is to use the space, which can lead your children being late for school and other appointments. Installing double sinks in your teens' bathroom can be a real time saver. They can brush their teeth or wash their faces simultaneously so no one has to wait her turn. Place an additional mirror above the vanity, or increase the size of the existing mirror so there is enough space for them to do their hair or makeup at the same time as well.

Install Additional Countertops

For toiletry items that are not used frequently, cabinets or drawers are ideal places for teens to store them. However, chances are good that your teens have a large collection of hair, skin care and makeup products that they use on a daily basis and like to have within easy reach. Installing additional countertop space allows your kids to line up the products that they use regularly where they can see and grab them easily. If the bathroom contains little counter space surrounding the sink, replace the setup with a vanity-style countertop that contains cabinets below and ample countertop space on either side of the basin.

Include a Hamper

If you clean up after your teens regularly, you have likely spent countless hours picking up dirty clothes and wet towels from the floor. To prevent their bathroom from becoming a mess, add a hamper where they can deposit all of their dirty items as they take them off or finish using them. A hamper that features a lid is an effective option because the dirty clothes will not be visible, so the room will still have a neat, tidy appearance. If your bathroom does not have floor space for a freestanding hamper, a wall-mounted unit is an effective alternative.

Increase Storage Options

In addition to counter space for items that they use daily, your teens likely require additional storage space in their bathroom for towels, bathrobes, hair styling tools and other items. For towels, add open shelves where towels can be stacked so they are easy to reach for when needed. Place hooks on the back of the door so your teens can hang their robes. If the vanity does not feature drawers or cabinets beneath it, place a freestanding cabinet unit in the room where surplus toiletries, cleaning supplies and other items may be stored. To give the cabinets a more personalized look, take a trip to the hardware or home improvement store, and find drawer pulls and handles in unusual colors and finishes.

Tags: your teens, that they, counter space, countertop space, dirty clothes, easy reach

Paint Crown Molding & Ceilings

Ceilings, especially textured ones, require special paint.

When you consider repainting your house, you rarely let your thoughts stray above the walls. Even though the ceiling may not seem noticeable, changing the color of your molding and ceiling can make your living space seem larger or more intimate or can add drama to the room. While painting crown molding and your ceiling may seem intimidating, your efforts can transform the look of your room without any renovation.

Instructions

1. Choose a style of paint suitable for your ceiling. If you have a textured ceiling, you'll need a flat-finish paint with good adhesion. If your ceiling is smooth, painting with a an eggshell or satin paint can give your ceiling a slight sheen, suggests the Home Depot website.

2. Choose the colors for your ceiling and molding paint. Darker colors make the ceiling appear lower and make rooms feel cozier, while lighter colors or whites make the room seem taller and brighter. Paint the crown molding the same color as either the walls or ceiling or choose a complementary color to make it stand out.

3. Cover the floors and furniture in the room with tarps to protect from splatters. Keep a wet cloth on hand to clean up spills before they dry.

4. Apply painter's tape on the wall along the seam between the wall and the molding. If the molding will be a different color, apply the tape to the molding where it meets the ceiling as well.

5. Apply paint to textured ceilings with a paint sprayer, or use a simple tray and roller for flat ceilings. Whether using a sprayer or roller, apply the paint in long, smooth strokes until you have an even coat, leaving 4 to 5 inches along the border.

6. Finish painting the boarder where the ceiling meets the molding with a hand held paintbrush. Let dry for several hours and apply another coat if necessary.

7. Apply painter's tape to the ceiling where it meets the molding if the molding will be a different color. Apply an even coat of paint to the molding with a brush, working horizontally along the wall. Add a second coat if needed once the first coat has dried completely.

Tags: your ceiling, Apply painter, Apply painter tape, ceiling seem, crown molding, different color

Design Kitchen Cabinet Doors

Cabinet doors determine a lot about a kitchen's overall style.

Any home's kitchen can add real market value to the house. Selecting appropriate kitchen cabinet doors is important, since door design and placement make an initial first impression of the kitchen. To design doors properly, homeowners should review many pre-made doors in stores, home design books and magazines. It's important to select doors that will match the home's architectural style, but it's also wise to select doors that a potential future buyer will find appealing.

Instructions

Basic Design Choices

1. Review kitchen cabinets in books, magazines and online to gain a idea of what homeowners are currently utilizing. Make notes about special features, such as crown molding at the top of cabinets, that are appealing. Pay attention to door knob pulls and colors of metal accessories that look appropriate.

2. Sketch the basic layout of the kitchen, including an island bar or pantry cabinet. Measure the space if the kitchen is already built or use measurements from the kitchen's blue print. Plan to use doors that are at least medium-grade quality, but avoid using doors that are the least expensive. Consult with an expert at a kitchen remodeling center to review materials used for pre-made doors.

3. Select doors that are neutral or light in color, if the kitchen is small. Choose white or light oak doors, for example, to make the space seem larger. Consider two colors of cabinet doors, if hybrid cabinets will be used. Install dark cherry cabinets alternated with light maple as one option of hybrid cabinets. Sketch the cabinets using colored pencils to envision the end result in the kitchen.

4. Ask a cabinet consultant about hinges and door knobs that work over time. Inquire about customer satisfaction and popular items used for most kitchens. Consider matching the door knobs, if metal is used, with other metal in the kitchen. Use stainless steel door knobs if the stove is stainless steel, for example.

5. Plan to buy doors wide enough to fit all cabinetry without door edges showing. Carefully measure for each door individually, since side-by-side cabinetry can have size discrepancies in either store-bought or hand-made cabinets.

Details of Door Design

6. Review the kitchen layout to decide which way cabinet doors must open. Keep in mind that overhead doors above the dishwasher may need to accommodate dishes coming out of the dishwasher. Don't install the hinges or door knob pulls on the wrong side.

7. Design unique door systems for certain areas. Plan to buy two tall doors that close in the middle, in most cases, for a large pantry. Review various door styles available for corner cabinets, since door hinges can be placed in the middle crease of a corner cabinet door system.

8. Select a color and finish of cabinet doors that work well with flooring. Avoid colors that clash, since the floor area and cabinet door areas are large spaces in the kitchen. Tie the cabinetry and flooring colors together if possible. Install hybrid black and white cabinets with black and white vinyl flooring, for example.

Tags: doors that, door knobs, black white, books magazines, cabinet door, cabinet doors, door knob

What Kind Of Ceiling Fan Do I Need

Ceiling fans help circulate air in a room.

Ceiling fans are common additions to rooms, helping circulate air. While they don't necessarily lower the temperature in a room, they can make it feel more comfortable. The ceiling fan size will certainly have an impact on airflow.

Facts

The size of a room will dictate ceiling fan size. For example, a 75-square-foot room needs a 36-inch fan, rooms that are 76 to 144 square feet require a 42-inch fan, rooms of 145 to 225 square feet need a 44-inch fan, and rooms that are 226 to 400 square feet need a 54-inch fan.

Features

Ceilings fans come in a variety of styles and finishes to match your d cor. Nickel, brass, bronze and white metal fan housings are common. Blades come in white, oak, cherry, mahogany, pine or natural, allowing you to coordinate with your room's fixtures.

Purpose

A properly sized and installed ceiling fan allows you to set the thermostat of your central air conditioning unit two to four degrees warmer. With the additional air circulation, you'll most likely not notice the warmer temperature in the room.

Tags: square feet, Ceiling fans, ceiling size, feet need, rooms that, rooms that square

Install A Sheetrock Ceiling Joist

Ceiling joists can be trusses or solid wood.

Installing a ceiling joist for hanging sheetrock requires access to the attic or the interior of the ceiling cavity in two-story or multi-storied buildings. Proper joist size that allows for distances spanned must be maintained. Access to the top plates of nearby walls is necessary. The joist is installed by nailing in place on top of the nearby wall plates. Space to allow nailing of the joist in place is also required. Quality joists are straight or with only a slight crown and have few if any knots.

Instructions

1. Measure the location where the joist will be installed, using a tape measure, and cut the joist to the desired length, using a saw. Look down the joist holding one end to determine if it's straight, crooked, twisted or has a crown. Mark the side that has the crown if one exists, using a pencil.

2. Place the joist by positioning each end of the joist on top of a nearby wall. The crown must be up before you nail it in place.

3. Toenail the joist to the top plates of the walls. Drive the nails into the bottom of the joist at an angle that will allow the nail to pass through the joist and secure into the top plates of the wall.

4. Cut and nail in place blocks of wood between the new joist and the nearby joist that are installed parallel to the new joist. The blocks will be installed on both sides and at 90-degree angles near both ends of the joist. Blocks should be placed in the middle if the joist spans a long distance and more stability is desired.

Tags: joist nearby, nail place, nearby wall, will installed

Paint Unfinished Basement Ceilings

What lies underneath the floor, the basement ceiling, can be pretty unsightly.

An unfinished basement ceiling is an unsightly portion of any home. Even if you only use the basement for laundry and storage, it can look much better if you take the time to paint the ceiling. A painted, but otherwise unfinished, ceiling takes on the look of an industrial space and can turn an eyesore into a cool, hip area.

Instructions

1. Clean the ceiling area of all cobwebs, debris and dust. Use a broom and rags soaked in cleanser to thoroughly clean the area.

2. Tape up plastic sheeting to close off the section of the room that will be painted. Put drop cloths on the floor. Position fans so they will draw the air out of the room. If you will be using a paintbrush instead of a sprayer, you can omit the plastic sheeting and the fan.

3. Spray the outside of the airless sprayer with silicone for easier cleanup of the equipment. An airless sprayer costs about $400 (as of 2010) but can be rented from most home improvement stores.

4. Fill the sprayer according to the manufacturer's directions and begin spraying with the primer first. Check with a home inspector to see if any areas, such as heating ducts, need special paints or if they need to be left free of paint. If they need special treatment, tape plastic over them so they won't be sprayed. Make sure you wear protective gear and a breathing mask during priming and painting.

5. After the primer is dry, paint the area with two coats of ceiling paint. Light colors will make the room look brighter and will visually raise the space, but white is hard to keep clean. Instead, opt for a cream or light gray shade. Dark colors will visually lower the ceiling but will give it a very industrial look. Once the paint is dry, remove the plastic sheeting.

Tags: plastic sheeting, airless sprayer, basement ceiling, colors will, need special, they need, will visually

Ideas For Decorating A Kitchen Romantically

Red roses add a nice touch to a white or gold-accented kitchen.

Make your dream kitchen by adding romantic touches to it that inspire creative cooking ideas and a feeling of welcoming love between you and your special one. Add some simple red and pink accents, or start from scratch when working on your romantic kitchen.

Country Pink

Pink, while not necessarily usual for a kitchen, can convey a soft romantic look to the kitchen. Paint the cabinets and other wooden surface areas white. Use white bar stools and upholster the seats with a pink floral pattern. Use pink and gold accents throughout the kitchen. Buy or make pink lacy curtains to hang on the windows, frame romantic photos in gold frames with pink and white checked mattes, and tie pink scarves to the rungs of the stools. A crystal chandelier lighting fixture and leafy green potted plants with pink and white flowers complete the romantic look.

Bold and Red

Go for broke with two red walls, dark red hardwood floor and white and red area rugs. Find a heart-patterned or floral wallpaper to accent the room in the space above the stove and any little alcove spaces of the kitchen. Hang dreamy photos in white frames on one of the red walls in threes. Use black countertops and black figurines or knicknacks on black or white decorative shelves.

Understated

Try a less-bold palette to appeal to your romantic side while not going overboard. Keep the white or natural wood of the cabinets and black or natural surface tops. Add some romantic touches by putting white lace curtains at the windows, Italian oils and spices in decorative containers on the counter by the stove, a bowl of lemons on the island counter and vases of white and yellow roses around the room. Install a crystal chandelier in the center of the room.

Rounded Edges

Use rounded edges on all the corners of the room to soften the look of the romantic kitchen. Use a white, rounded sink, rounded countertops and rounded shelf edges. Install a kitchen plate holder where the plates sit upright and are slid into slots under a cabinet unit, so that you can see the symmetrical and rounded sides of the plates. Put a frilly pink valance at the windows with three draped scallops.

Tags: with pink, crystal chandelier, pink white, romantic kitchen, romantic look, romantic touches, with pink white

Design Tips For Vaulted Ceiling Living Rooms

Design Tips for Vaulted Ceiling Living Rooms

Living rooms with vaulted ceilings, which are typically larger rooms overall, are pleasantly spacious. However, they can pose interior design issues when trying to make the room feel cozy and inviting. You can fill large open spaces and high walls with color, the right furniture, and lighting that will make your vaulted ceiling living room one of the most enjoyable and stylish rooms in your home.

Paint

If your living room with a vaulted ceiling has a cavernous feel to it, you can make the space seem smaller with the right paint colors on the walls and ceiling. Dark colors on the walls will make the space seem smaller, and in fact you can use tones that are deeper than you might usually consider for a smaller space. Choose colors that are darker in tone but complement the colors of large pieces of furniture and carpet.

Wallpaper and Art

Wallpaper or large wall hangings are another way to highlight large walls with inviting colors and textures. For wallpaper, place dominant patterns on main areas and larger walls. Coordinate the textures and colors with furniture and carpet colors. Large pieces of art should look like a fit for the wall, as disproportionately small pieces will actually highlight the excessive size of some walls. Tapestries and oriental rugs can be used for large walls that need coverings well above eye level.

Arranging Furniture

Large rooms with vaulted ceilings can be divided into smaller, partially self-contained areas with the right furniture and arrangement. Choose large sofas and chairs covered in heavy fabrics. You can divide areas with long tables and tall bookcases to create nooks within the larger space. Tall bookshelves can complement the rise and angles of vaulted ceilings when properly placed, and color can be added with plants and vases on the top shelf.

Hanging Light Fixtures

The proper hanging light fixtures can highlight a vaulted ceiling and fill the open space with something that is both decorative and functional. Consider the scale of the room and avoid light fixtures that are too small as this will detract from the grandeur, which is one of the main appeals of the vaulted ceiling. Also, ceiling fans can fill spaces nicely and provide pleasant air circulation.

Tags: vaulted ceiling, vaulted ceilings, with vaulted, areas with, Ceiling Living

Caulk Crown Molding & A Textured Ceiling

Caulking crown molding is necessary to keep it stable.

Caulk is the perfect fix-it solution for many molding do it yourselfers. Crown molding can be difficult to install. Often crown molding will have small cracks or imperfections. Additionally, when crown molding is installed on a textured ceiling, there is often a visible gap between the crown molding and the textured ceiling. Caulking crown molding after it is installed is the perfect way to create a seamless transition between your molding and the ceiling.

Instructions

1. Cut off the end of the caulk tube. Use a scissors for a clean cut job. Typically caulk tubes display lines of 1/4, 1/8, 1/16 and so forth near the end of the tube to tell you how wide the caulk will be when applied. A smaller hole in the caulk tube will allow you to do a better job without making a mess. Use the 1/16 line on the caulk tube. If you have a larger gap between the textured ceiling and the crown molding, however, you may want to use the 1/8 cut line on the caulk tube.

2. Clean the area you will caulk. Use water and a clean cloth to wipe the area so it is clean and free of dust or debris.

3. Load the tube of caulk into the caulk gun. Use the caulk gun to apply a small bead of caulk along the gap between the textured ceiling and the crown molding. Be careful not to apply too much caulk to the area.

4. Smooth the bead of caulk with your finger. The caulk should form a gentle slope from the textured ceiling to the crown molding. Keep several paper towels on hand to wipe excess caulk from your fingers as you go.

5. Allow the caulk to dry the allotted time. Instructions on the caulk tube will tell you when it will be dry and ready for painting. If in question, allow the caulk to dry overnight. Once dry, you can paint the crown molding.

Tags: crown molding, caulk tube, ceiling crown, ceiling crown molding, textured ceiling

Stain Oak Trim

Wood trim can add warmth and character to a home. Oak is a hardwood with a coarse grain, which makes it easy to work with. Oak is one of the most common woods used for finish work in homes, and many stains and finishes are designed for this type of application. The type of stain and finish you choose depends on the color you want the wood to be, and whether you want a satin or gloss finish.

Instructions

1. Lay trim out on a flat surface. If you don't have a workbench you can do this on sawhorses if you make sure they provide enough support for the trim, which can be very flexible. Do this outside or in an area separate from where you will be finishing the trim, if possible.

2. Sand the trim with 100-grit sandpaper, using the sandpaper to get into crevices and the sanding pad for curves. If the trim has a flat profile you can use a sanding sponge. Stop sanding when the wood feels uniformly smooth and any marks from planing or cutting have been removed.

3. Move the trim to a dust-free area or allow several hours for the sawdust to settle.

4. Wipe the sanded trim with a tack cloth to remove the sawdust. Wipe it until no more sawdust comes off when wiped with a clean rag.

5. Stir the stain, scraping the stir-stick across the bottom and stir any solids into the stain until it is all uniform.

6. Dip a natural-bristle brush into the stain and brush it liberally over the wood, making sure you get it into all the crevices. Try to evenly cover all the wood.

7. Allow the stain to soak into the wood for about five minutes and then wipe off excess stain with a clean, 100 percent cotton rag. Keep folding the rag so you always have a clean, dry cloth to work with. If you see streaks in the stain, wipe it again with a clean rag.

8. Use a clean, dry, natural-bristle brush to "dry brush" any crevices or areas that you couldn't reach with the rag. Drag the dry brush through these areas, wiping it off frequently on a rag or newspaper to remove stain from these crevices.

9. Repeat this process as necessary to create an even finish and to make the wood the color you want it to be.

10. Allow the stain to dry overnight and finish as desired.

Tags: with clean, Allow stain, color want, into crevices, into stain, natural-bristle brush, trim flat

Chandelier Styles

A crystal chandelier.

Looking for a chandelier can be confusing without knowing the different terms used to describe popular chandelier styles. Knowing these terms will help you narrow your search and focus on choosing the best chandelier for your home.

Lantern

A lantern is a lighting fixture encased in glass on all four sides. This chandelier style is popular for entryways, stairwells and even outdoors.

Bell Jar

Bell jars consist of a lighting fixture suspended in the center of a glass jar. This is a more casual style of chandelier that is also popular for entries and foyers, but has gained popularity as a casual choice for dining rooms and other rooms of the house.

Crystal

Crystal chandeliers are the most formal type of chandelier and consist of small crystal droplets, beads or other crystal shapes hung on and around a light fixture.

Metal

Metal chandeliers are very popular and range in style from heavy, Spanish-themed iron fixtures to sedate and traditional brass chandeliers.

Fabric

Fabric chandeliers range in style from very modern to more traditional. An example of a more modern style includes a large drum-shaped shade suspended from a cord or chain.

Natural

Natural chandelier styles have been gaining in popularity over the past few years. Coral, shells and even antlers are some of the new styles of chandelier available on the market today.

Tags: chandelier styles, lighting fixture, range style, range style from, style from

Change A Halogen 35w Bulb

Halogen bulbs are incandescent bulbs that shine brighter and softer than traditional incandescent bulbs, using less wattage to produce the same amount of light. They're used throughout the home, including in pot lights and tall floor lamps. The bulbs might seem difficult to remove because you usually have to pull on them to get them out. In general, though, you can change 35-watt halogen bulbs yourself, with just a little bit of know-how and the confidence that you're doing it right.

Instructions

1. Unplug the lamp, and allow enough time for the bulb to cool if it has been in use. About 10 or 15 minutes will probably suffice for a 35-watt halogen bulb.

2. Remove the cover, if applicable. do this varies among lamps. For example, there may be clips to lift or screws to back out to remove a tempered glass. Read your lamp's manual for instructions.

3. Wear cotton gloves or hold a tissue or non-linen cloth so you don't damage the glass. If you do inadvertently touch the glass, clean the salts and oils your hands can leave behind with a cotton ball moistened with rubbing alcohol.

4. Remove the old bulb. This also varies among lamps. A 35-watt halogen bulb with pins can be pulled right out. A halogen tube is secured in place with springs on either end. Gently pull up on the tube to remove. Discard in the trash. Halogen bulbs are not recyclable.

5. Push the new bulb back in the same way as you removed the old one. If it the bulb is a halogen tube, insert it in a similar manner as you would a spring-loaded toilet tissue holder.

6. Replace the cover, if applicable, and plug your light back in.

Tags: 35-watt halogen, 35-watt halogen bulb, among lamps, cover applicable, halogen bulb, Halogen bulbs, halogen tube

Painting Over Tongue & Groove Paneling

Painting wood paneling can update the look of a home.

Tongue and groove paneling is created by joining slats of wood together using a tongue and groove joint to cover a wall. This type of paneling is common in older homes that were built before the large sheets of wood paneling were created that are used today. Painting paneling isn't difficult, but it does require a few extra steps to make it look its best.

Preparation

Protect the floor from paint and debris by covering it with plastic sheets, which can be purchased at any home goods store. Tape the sheets to the floor by lining the edges of the sheet with painter's tape. If the paneling doesn't cover the entire height of the wall, tape off the top edge of the paneling.

Removing Old Paint

Paint and primer adheres best to raw wood. Prepare the wood for the paint by using a fine to medium grit sandpaper to remove any existing paint or glossy coating. Fold sandpaper in half or fourths and use the edge of the paper to get into the cracks between each slat of wood. For thin wood or areas that are difficult to reach, remove paint with a chemical paint remover. Push paint remover into the wood using a paintbrush and allow it to set for 20 minutes. Scrape away paint and paint remover with a metal scraper.

Paint Selection

It is important to select the appropriate paint for your wood. Interior latex paint is a great general-purpose paint for wood paneling, but you can also use oil-based paint. Oil-based paints are usually more durable but they are difficult to remove and worse for the environment than latex paint. It is also important to choose the appropriate paint sheen for the area, which depends on the amount of wear the area will get. The best sheen for paneling is satin or semi-gloss if the paneling extends over a half of the wall or less. If the paneling extends from floor to ceiling, use a satin or eggshell finish.

Priming and Painting

Begin painting the wall by rolling primer onto a 10-foot section of the paneling, using a roller covered in primer. After covering the section, cover the roller with a plastic bag so it doesn't dry out. Use a paintbrush dipped in primer to paint into the cracks and corners of the paneling. Working in small areas allows you to smooth out the finish before you move to a different section. Repeat this process, covering the paintbrush or roller with a plastic bag when not in use, until the entire area is covered in primer and allow it to dry completely. Paint the wall using the same method for painting primer to cover the paneling in paint. Paint several thin coats of paint rather than one thick coat. Remove the tape after the paint has dried.

Tags: paint remover, with plastic, wood paneling, appropriate paint, covered primer, into cracks, latex paint

Types Of Ceilings

A ceiling style and covering add architectural and aesthetic qualities to the room. Ceiling styles and coverings can be combined to create a unique environment and accent the era and style of the home. High ceilings add a distinctly open feel to the room. Lower ceilings create a closer, cozier environment.

Drywall, Plaster and Lathe

Drywall ceilings are the most common type of ceiling. Plaster and lathe ceilings are often found in older houses. Both types of ceilings can be painted, wallpapered and covered with a variety of covering options such as tin, ply and batten, or stretched PVC. Drywall ceilings are easy to maintain with a fresh coat of paint every three to five years. They are also easy to repair from water damage with a patch of drywall and plaster.

Tongue and Groove

Tongue and groove ceilings are covered with tongue and groove wood or plastic tongue and groove products. These ceilings take a lot of time to install because each piece has to be finished with stain and sealant or paint, cut to size, and nailed into place. This type of ceiling should be cleaned annually with warm soapy water to prevent discoloration from airborne dirt and grease. Repairs from water or other damage may require replacing the entire ceiling.

Suspended Tile

Suspended tile ceilings are often installed to cover damage to the original ceiling, to lower the ceiling or to add acoustical properties for rooms such as a home theater. A grid of tees is installed to hold the tiles in place, and the tiles are inserted in the grid tees. The tiles are easily removed for cleaning when necessary. Repairs to damaged tiles are performed by simply replacing the damaged tile.

Dome, Cathedral, Cove, Tray and Shed

Flat ceilings are the most common, however, architectural designs enhance the look of a home. Domed ceilings have a dome shape, curved from the sides to the top. Cathedral ceilings angle up to a central peak. Cove ceilings have a curved edge around the perimeter where the ceiling meets the walls. Tray ceilings have an angle around the perimeter where the ceiling meets the walls. A shed ceiling has an angle, similar to a cathedral ceiling, to the central peak. However, the other side of the peak is a solid vertical wall to the floor.

Considerations

When choosing a ceiling type for your home, take the cost of heating and cooling into consideration. High ceilings increase the amount of heat needed in the winter because heat rises. Lower ceilings increase the cost of cooling because the heat is trapped in a lower area. Fans, windows and vents can be incorporated into the design to improve heating and cooling efficiency and decrease heating and cooling costs.

Tags: ceilings have, heating cooling, around perimeter, around perimeter where, because heat, ceiling meets

Remove Textured Ceiling Paint

Some people love the look of texture and add it to their walls and ceilings. However, if you just moved into a new house you may completely hate the textured ceiling above your head. Moreover, it collects dust and dirt far easier than an untextured surface. Luckily, it is possible to remove the textured paint from the ceiling without hiring a professional.

Instructions

1. Tape off and cover all electrical outlets. You do not want the textured paint to lodge itself into the outlet once removed.

2. Spread plastic sheets over the entire floor. It may help to tape the sheets up against the walls. You are going to use water so the sheets will help protect the floor from becoming wet. It also makes for easier cleanup.

3. Mix two or three tablespoons of mild dish soap into a gallon of water. Then fill a pump sprayer with the solution. You can purchase a pump sprayer at any home-improvement store.

4. Spray an area of the ceiling until it is thoroughly soaked. You want to make sure the texture on the ceiling is soft. Do not spray the entire ceiling at once because parts are going to dry before you can properly see to them.

5. Stand on your ladder and use a putty knife to scrape away the textured paint. With the ceiling thoroughly wet the paint should fall right off.

6. Proceed with spraying additional areas of the ceiling and scraping the textured paint off until the entire ceiling has been cleared of the texture.

7. Sand the ceiling to smooth out any jagged areas that may be left over from the textured paint.

Tags: textured paint, entire ceiling, pump sprayer

Examples Of Crown Moldings

Crown molding provides the finishing touch to wall construction in the area where the top of the wall meets the ceiling. This functional and decorative treatment comes in a variety of materials and offers great flexibility when choosing profiles, which are the silhouettes of the molding in cross section. You may choose to keep your look simple with crown molding that has a plain silhouette, or you may pick an ornate finish. The various types of crown molding available ensure that you'll find the type that suits your purposes best.

Wood Crown Molding

Many interior designers appreciate natural wood crown molding for its ability to accept stain and for ease in routing out clear and precise molding patterns. For these reasons you will find wood crown molding a little more expensive than other examples, but there are caveats as well. Natural wood, whether soft pine or a hardwood like mahogany or oak, responds to moisture and temperature in the air and, as a result, can shrink or swell to some degree, depending on the humidity in the room.

Polyurethane Crown Molding

Polyurethane crown molding is durable and escapes the pitfalls of wood or wood composites in that it is not affected by wood insects or the natural wood process of decay. This stability, plus its comparative low cost, makes it an ideal type of crown molding. It is softer than the wood types, requiring a defter handling, but the pattern can be routed as with natural wood, and the material can be easily painted. Some of the more ornate crown moldings are made of polyurethane.

Plaster Crown Molding

Plaster crown molding is often used in conjunction with plaster walls. This material can be molded into the most elaborate of patterns, but it is difficult to install due to its weight and propensity for cracking. The molding must be custom-cast for each individual job, which makes it very expensive to use. Because it can be molded to such a high degree, many homeowners choose this molding despite its drawbacks. It adds elegance and ornate touches to bedrooms and to formal living and dining rooms.

PVC or Polyvinyl Crown Molding

PVC is impervious to the vagaries of humidity, and, as such, is an ideal type of crown molding material for use in outdoor areas such as porches. It is also suited for use in bathrooms, kitchens, mud rooms and laundry rooms where humidity is higher than in other parts of the home. This type of crown molding does not paint well and cannot be formed into intricate silhouettes, so it is used where a simpler finish is desired. Decay is not an issue with this type of material.

Specialty Crown Molding

One of the drawbacks of using a natural wood, composite or polyvinyl material for crown molding is that they do not bend successfully, making them useless where a curved line exists. Flexible crown molding answers this need because it is created to be bendable and can be tailored to non-linear lines. Foam materials make adding molding to a room a simple project because it is lightweight and inexpensive. Shaping the material is also easy because it does not require saws. A knife or a pair of scissors is all you need for fitting the molding into place.

Tags: crown molding, crown molding, type crown, type crown molding, crown molding, Crown Molding, crown molding

Change A Halogen Bulb Socket Ceiling Light

You can change halogen bulbs easily in recessed lighting.

Socket ceiling lights can also be called recessed or can lighting. Many types of these lights have halogen bulbs. When the bulb burns out, it can be a slight challenge to replace it if you have no prior experience changing the halogen bulb in that particular socket. This particularly true if you just moved into a new house or apartment and you're not accustomed to the hardware. Armed with a few tips, however, you can successfully change the halogen bulb in a ceiling light with very little trouble.

Instructions

1. Turn off the power switch to the light that has burnt out.

2. Position a ladder under the burnt-out recessed ceiling light and slightly to the side. Step up on the ladder two or three steps so you can easily reach the light. If the ceiling is very high and you must climb higher than this, have a friend hold the ladder while you climb.

3. Reach into the recessed light and grasp the burnt-out halogen bulb. If you cannot fit your fingers around the bulb, you will have to remove the metal ring around the light. It should pop off easily. However, if it has been painted over and is now stuck to the ceiling, run a utility knife blade around the edge where it meets the ceiling. Slide the blade under the edge of the ring and turn it slightly so the ring pops off.

4. Turn the bulb counterclockwise to remove it from the socket. If the recessed light is so narrow that you still cannot get your fingers around it, use a piece of duct tape 12 inches long to help you. Stick the midpoint of the strip of tape to the burnt-out bulb. Fold the ends over with the adhesive on the inside of the fold to create two handles that are not sticky. Pinch the handles together over the midpoint that is still stuck to the bulb and twist it counterclockwise until the bulb comes out.

5. Open the package for the new halogen bulb. Use paper towels to hold the bulb. Do not touch it directly with your fingers because the oils on your fingers will cause the bulb to burn out prematurely.

6. Insert the bulb into the socket and turn it clockwise until it is screwed all the way in. Do not overtighten it. Replace the ring if you removed it earlier and you are done.

Tags: halogen bulb, your fingers, cannot your, cannot your fingers, ceiling light, change halogen, fingers around

Route Crown Moulding

Crown molding adds decorative detail to the interior of your home. The molding is installed where the wall and ceiling join. Although you can purchase a variety of crown molding, you can make your own to match the historic molding in your home or create a custom design. Run basic pine boards through a router table equipped with a special bit to create the molding.

Instructions

1. Insert a crown molding bit into the router in the router table. Adjust the height of the bit so that it cuts the depth of the bit profile into the 3-inch side of the pine boards. Adjust the fence so that the depth of the profile is cut into the board.

2. Run each pine board through the router table with the 1-inch side flat against the table and the 3-inch side tight against the fence. Guide the board smoothly across the table and fence until the cut is complete. The routed side of the boards is the front face.

3. Remove the crown molding bit. Insert a molding edge bit. This cuts the angled edges onto the boards to create the correct edge required for crown molding. Adjust the height of the bit so that the profile of the angled bit will cut onto the edges of the boards.

4. Rout the back corner of the 1-inch edges of each board. Run the boards through the router table with the 1-inch edge flat against the table with the front 3-inch face flush against the fence.

5. Sand the front face of the molding with a scrap of 120-grit sandpaper until the surface is completely smooth. Always sand with the grain.

Tags: crown molding, router table, table with, through router, through router table, 3-inch side, Adjust height

Repair A Falling Plaster Ceiling

Repairing plaster ceilings will save major repairs later.

Plaster ceilings are found more often in older homes than newer ones. They aren't uses as much anymore due to their tendency to crack and chip. If you have a home with plaster ceilings, you have probably run into these issues. The next time you have some plaster falling down, consider repairing it yourself and saving a bit of money. The labor is not too complicated, but does take some time.

Instructions

1. Insert drywall screws through the center of plaster washers.

2. Climb the ladder to reach the area where the plaster is coming down.

3. Screw the washer into the plaster and the lath behind it. The lath is small wooden strips holding the plaster in place. Try locations in the ceiling until you hit the lath. You can patch the holes later.

4. Spread joint compound over the cracks in the ceiling once you have inserted washers and are sure the ceiling is secure. Use enough compound to cover the washers. Spread with a plaster hawk, and then smooth out.

5. Place screen mesh, such as a piece used for screen doors, over the compound and press it in slightly.

6. Spread more compound over the mesh and smooth out. Taper down as you move out past the repair onto the original plaster. Wait a day for it to completely dry.

7. Sand down bumps with 220-grit sandpaper and add more compound with a trowel to any low areas. Let it dry again and sand smooth.

Tags: compound over, more compound, plaster ceilings, with plaster

Install A Pullup Bar In The Ceiling

A pull-up bar must withstand high weights pulling at a downward angle. Installing a pull-up bar with the proper support will cause damage to the ceiling. Several kits are available for purchase that include specific installation instructions for ceiling and wall mounted pull-up bars. Building your own basic pull-up bar with inexpensive materials and mounting the structure to the ceiling is not a difficult process. Galvanized pipe with screw-in connectors which are hard-mounted to the ceiling joists complete the project easily.

Instructions

1. Attach 90-degree elbows to each end of one piece of an 18-inch pipe. Attach an additional 18-inch pipe to the end of each elbow to create a "U" shape. Screw on the floor flanges to the ends of the vertical 18-inch pipes. Tighten all connections down with a pipe wrench.

2. Drag a stud finder across the ceiling to locate one ceiling joist. Follow the directions for the stud finder for proper use. Mark the location of a stud within a few feet of the wall with an "X." Keeping the location close to a wall adds stability to the pull-up bar.

3. Mark the location of the ceiling joist adjacent to the first one. The pull-up bar will not be parallel to the wall, since most ceiling joists are only 16 inches apart and the bar will be approximately 18 inches long. Place the marks so the position of the pull-up bar assembly on the ceiling meets with your needs and desires. Keep the marks close to a wall for additional stability.

4. Mount one of the floor flanges to the ceiling at the "X." Drive three-inch anchor screws through the screw holes on the flange directly into the ceiling joist. Adjust the positioning of the flange so at least two or more screw holes line up with the joist.

5. Rotate the pull-up bar assembly so the second floor flange lines up with the second ceiling joist. Attach the flange to the joist as in Step 3.

Tags: ceiling joist, 18-inch pipe, ceiling joists, close wall, floor flanges, Mark location, pull-up assembly

Tips For Spray Painting A Ceiling

Painting a ceiling is one of the most tedious and frustrating aspects of indoor painting. One good way to avoid aching arms and hours spent on ladders is to color your ceiling using spray paint. This method, however, brings its own set of challenges. Use the proper colors, types of spray and sound application techniques to make your spray painted ceiling look as good as any job applied in a traditional manner.

Different Colors

When painting a room where you plan to spray paint the ceiling with a different color or matte than the rest of the room, paint the ceiling before you start on the walls, which will allow you to correct any mistakes or slop over on the walls when you paint those. Accidentally getting small amounts of spray paint in places you don't want it is easy, especially when you're working close to the edges of the ceiling.

Cover the Floor

Coat the floor completely with painter's plastic before you begin spray painting the ceiling as it's almost inevitable that some paint will drip or drift down to the floor level. When applying strips of plastic, ensure they overlap by at least 5 inches, and tape the upper layers to the lower layers with a strip of tape over the entire length of the seam to ensure that no paint gets through. Secure the edges of the plastic to the walls using masking tape.

Directional Spray Paint

Most spray paint cans are designed to spray while being held upright and won't spray very well when held on their side for prolonged periods, and you will need some time when spray painting your ceiling. To compensate for this, look for spray paint cans designed for multi-directional use. You may end up spending a little extra for these types of cans, but you'll be grateful for the difference.

Light

Try to arrange your painting schedule so that you can work during daylight hours, and take advantage of sunlight, provided your room has windows. Full, natural light is the best way to ensure thorough coverage since dim light and shadows can mask mistakes or inconsistencies in the spray painting. If using daylight isn't possible, use bright lights that you can direct to point at the ceiling; most normal ambient room lights leave ceilings shadowed.

Distance

When spraying, consult the spray paint manufacturer's instructions regarding the proper distance to hold the can away from the ceiling while spraying. Keep this distance as consistent as possible throughout the entire paint job to avoid inconsistent thickness of the paint you apply.

Tags: spray paint, spray paint, cans designed, ceiling most, paint cans, paint cans designed

Install Ceiling Tiles To Joists

Installing ceiling tiles is simple if you have a straight, flat ceiling surface. Some ceilings have surfaces that are a bit more complex than that, though, such as ceilings that have exposed joists. To install ceiling tiles to a ceiling that has exposed joists, you will first have to create a surface to which you can affix the tiles. The simplest way to create a surface that can accommodate ceiling tiles is to add furring strips to the joists.

Instructions

1. Determine the size of your border tiles. Measure the ceiling in both directions. If your ceiling is an even number of feet, you will be able to leave all of your tiles whole, since ceiling tiles generally have at least one side that measures 1 foot. However, if your ceiling is not an even number of feet, you will need to cut the tiles that will go around the border down to size. If the ceiling is 10 feet 6 inches in both directions, you will need to cut your border tiles down to cover that extra 6 inches in both directions. For proper tile installation, you should have even borders on both sides, which means that 6 inches will be divided into 3 inches on each side of the room. A 3-inch tile is a little bit small for a border though, so to make your border bigger, subtract one tile or 12 inches from the rest of the room and add it to your borders. Divide those 12 inches in half and you will have two 9-inch border tiles on each side.

2. Cut furring strips the length of the room. The joists will run across the room in one direction. The furring strips will run across the room at right angles to the joists. You will end up with a checkerboard pattern.

3. Place your first furring strip flush against one wall. Your second furring strip should be placed the same distance as the width of your border strip. So, if your border strips is 9 inches, your second strip will be placed 9 inches from the first strip. Attach furring strips to the joists with one nail at each joist.

4. Cut a block of wood to 12 inches. Use this block as your guide for attaching the remaining furring strips to the joists. Line each furring strip up parallel to the one beside it by placing your 12-inch block of wood between them in the center of the room. Nail the furring strip to the center joist. Move to one end of the room and line the end of the furring strip up with the block and nail into place. The rest of the furring strip should be even. Finish nailing the strip to the joists. Continue across the room this way and nail a final furring strip flush against the opposite wall.

5. Trim down the border tiles. You will need enough 9-inch tiles to cover two adjacent sides of the room. Your corner tiles should be 9 by 9 inches to account for both sides. Tiles can be cut with a sharp utility knife on a flat surface.

6. Install ceiling tiles as usual. Use ceiling tile adhesive on all corners, plus a dot in the middle of the sides that will touch the furring strips. Place the corner tile first according to the instructions that comes with your tiles. Some tiles require a staple or two as well as the adhesive. The tiles will be attached directly to the furring strips. Once the corner tile is in, place the border tiles on two adjacent walls. Fill in the center of the ceiling with full-size tiles. When you reach the other two sides of the room, measure the opposite two walls to make sure the measurements haven't changed. Cut the tiles down to size and fill in the border on the last two walls to complete the room.

Tags: furring strip, furring strips, border tiles, ceiling tiles, your border, across room, both directions

Harbor Breeze Fan Programming Instructions

Manufactured by Litex Industries, Harbor Breeze is a popular brand of ceiling fans that are available exclusively through Lowe's home improvement stores. Many Harbor Breeze ceiling fan models come with a remote control that can be programmed to operate the unit. Follow these simple programming instructions to synchronize the remote to your Harbor Breeze ceiling fan in five minutes or less.

Instructions

1. Shut off the electricity to your Harbor Breeze fan from your home's electrical service panel before attempting to program it. Open the service panel cover to access the circuit breaker switches. Turn the switch that controls your fan into the "Off" position to eliminate the risk of electrical shock.

2. Remove the battery compartment cover from the back of the remote control supplied with your Harbor Breeze fan. Take the battery out of the remote to expose the DIP switches in the bottom of the empty battery compartment.

3. Compare the DIP switches inside the fan's remote control to the DIP switches on the receiver unit of your fan. Note that the DIP switches in both units must match in order for the fan and remote to operate properly.

4. Replace the remote battery and battery compartment cover.

5. Restore the electricity to your Harbor Breeze fan by flipping the appropriate circuit breaker switch back to the "On" position.

6. Press the "Hi," "Med" and "Lo" buttons on the remote control within 20 seconds to synchronize it to the fan.

Tags: Harbor Breeze, remote control, your Harbor, your Harbor Breeze, battery compartment, battery compartment cover, Breeze ceiling

Buy A Table Lamp

Table lamps should satisfy lighting requirements as well as complement decor. Here are some ways to make sure your lamp measures up.

Instructions

1. Choose a lamp of an appropriate size. On a petite nesting table or narrow console, a candlestick lamp may be best. A roomy end table or bombe chest can accommodate a more bulky ginger jar.

2. Consider the lamp's style. A high-tech swing-arm lamp will look out of place on a carved Victorian table, while a faceted crystal-and-shiny-brass table lamp is likely to be jarring on a Shaker or Mission night stand.

3. Take measurements to be sure the lamp will be tall enough to cast its light over your shoulder, especially from a chair-side table. The bottom of the shade should be about even with your cheekbone when you're sitting on the chair, and the light's beam should fall on the page if you're reading.

4. Find out what the lamp's maximum wattage is. A reading lamp should offer 150 or more watts.

5. Check that the bottom edge of the shade hides the lamp's bulb socket when the lamp is viewed from a few feet away. This will make the lamp more attractive as well as reduce the potential for glare.

6. Examine the shade to see whether it suits your needs. A white or off-white fabric shade usually provides a translucent quality and high light output. A darker or opaque shade will limit the light output, which is suitable in entryways.

7. Ask store personnel whether you can swap the shade to satisfy your functional needs.

8. Make sure you can bring the lamp back for a full refund, especially if you find that it's too tall, too chunky, too bright or too dark.

9. Take the lamp home and test it. If you are able to see the lamp's bulb when sitting down, adjust the shade to reduce glare.

Tags: lamp bulb, lamp will, light output, when sitting