Tape & Mud Seams In Sheetrock

Taping and applying mud to Sheetrock requires a lot of skill.

Sheetrock is also referred to as drywall, plasterboard or gypsum board. Taping and and applying mud to Sheetrock takes practice and a bit of artistry, but it can be done by the homeowner. The process of taping and filling joints and seams takes several days to complete. There are two types of tape, paper tape and fiberglass tape. After the tape is applied, several thin coats of joint compound are used to fill in the seams, butt joints and screw heads. It is important to just apply thin coats and allow it to dry between every coat. This makes it easier when it comes time to sand and paint the Sheetrock.

Instructions

1. Start at one end of the seam or butt joint, and roll the self-adhesive fiberglass tape out, using the 6-inch taping knife to smooth the tape out on the seam or butt joint. At the end of the seam or butt joint, hold the blade of the taping knife at the very end, and pull from one corner to cut the fiberglass tape. Apply the fiberglass tape to all of the seams and butt joints.

2. Measure from the ceiling to the floor in the inside corners. Cut a piece of paper tape at the measurement. Fold the paper tape in half, using the crease in the center as a guide.

3. Apply a thin coat of joint compound to both sides of the inside corner, from the ceiling to the floor, using the 6-inch taping knife Place the paper tape in the corner, so it sticks to the joint compound. Smooth the paper tape out, removing the excess joint compound with the taping knife. Do this on both sides of the corner.

4. Measure the outside corners and cut a piece of metal corner bead to the proper length. Place on the outside corner and screw in place. Check for squareness, sliding the 6-inch tape knife down the corner bead. The edge of the taping knife should only touch on edge of the corner and the other end of the taping knife should touch the Sheetrock, with a space in between. If the knife touches any part of the metal corner bead, except on the point, it is not square.

5. Spread a thin coat of joint compound over the fiberglass tape on the outside corners, seams and butt joints. Smooth the edges of the joint compound out with the taping knife. Allow to complete dry.

6. Spread a thin coat of joint compound to the nail or screws, scrapping the excess joint compound off, using the 6-inch taping knife.

7. Apply a second coat of joint compound to the outside corners, seams, butt joints, inside corners and screws. Smooth excess joint compound out using the 6-inch taping knife.

8. Apply a third coat of joint compound, using the trowel. Apply the joint compound to one edge of the trowel. Slide the edge of the trowel along the seam and butt joint to apply the joint compound. Smooth out both edges to remove excess joint compound, using the 6-inch taping knife. Do this to all outside corners, seams and butt joints.

9. Apply the third coat of joint compound to the nails or screws and to the corners, using the 6-inch taping knife. Allow to completely dry.

10. Sand the excess joint compound smooth and prime the Sheetrock with a good quality drywall primer, before painting.

Tags: joint compound, taping knife, 6-inch taping, 6-inch taping knife, coat joint, coat joint compound

Make A Globe Chandelier

Build a chandelier with globes of varying sizes.

Dress up a dining room, foyer, bedroom or living room with a globe chandelier. Cluster a collection of globes together to create the chandelier, which will provide luminescent light that will become a focal point. Globe chandeliers can be made with many materials to suit the existing decor of the room. Experiment with globe size and placement to determine a configuration that works for the your available space.

Glass

Twist a series of glass globes together to create a bubble-like globe chandelier. Look for clear or colored glass globes and pair them with hand-blown bulbs. Combine the two by threading twine through the loop in the hand-blown globe and twist it together with the cords of the pre-lit globes. The result will be a grape-like cluster of glass globes. Wrap the cords with ribbon or twine to finish the look.

Paper

Look for large white paper globes in varying patterns and textures. Tie a group of the together by inserting the lighting hardware and twisting the cords together. Wrap the cords in ribbon or twine for different looks. Jazz up the chandelier with colored light bulbs. One idea is to add all red light bulbs or use a different color bulb in each globe. Another idea is to decorate the plain globes before adding the hardware. Stamp, paint and embellish the paper globes as you see fit.

String

Make a globe chandelier out of string globes. Blow up a series of balloons in different shapes and sizes and smooth a layer of Vaseline over the entire surface. Mix glue, water and cornstarch together and run string through the mixture. Wrap the string in a random pattern all over the balloon. If you are adding light hardware to the design, leave enough room to insert the light. Hang the balloons to dry for at least 24 hours. Pop the balloons and spray paint in your choice of color. Cluster the globes together and add lights.

Other Ideas

Gather a selection of glowing globes and arrange them into an appealing design for a chandelier. Hang the globe chandelier in a kid's room, playroom or a work area. Or, paint a series of white glass globes with glass paint to customize a look intended for a certain room. Experiment with designs such as florals, botanicals, geometric patterns and stripes. Another idea is to combine white glass and clear glass globes together.

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Design A 1920s Bathroom

Black and white was the most popular color combination in the 1920s.

During the 1920s, the styles were lavish, chic and glamorous, and they reflected a style known as Art Deco. Art Deco is characterized by its use of patterns, such as the chevron pattern and the sunburst pattern, and its use of black and white. Art Deco furnishings were most often made out of aluminum, stainless steel, inlaid wood, chrome and Lucite. Because this particular aesthetic is timeless, the look is classic, easy to replicate and will never look dated or out of fashion. A few simple steps will give your bathroom an Art Deco face-lift.

Instructions

1. The checkerboard pattern is chic, sophisticated and very retro.

Install hexagonal or octagonal bathroom floor tiles in a black and white checkerboard-style pattern. Put up black and white patterned wallpaper, preferably in a vertical stripe pattern.

2. Install a white pedestal sink and toilet, preferably with rounded edges and chrome fixtures. Avoid square corners, which don't suit the style.

3. Add a frosted-glass wall sconce above the sink and a medicine cabinet. Preferably, the medicine cabinet should also have rounded edges, but because this type can be difficult to find, it isn't essential.

4. Coordinate small details to pull the entire look together. Accessorize with a chrome or Lucite garbage can, towel rack, toilet-paper holder, toothbrush holder and soap dish. Whether you choose chrome or Lucite is up to you, and your accessories don't all have to match. Add a yellow bath mat and towels and a shower curtain of your choosing. The shower curtain should either be black and white, or it can be yellow--either will complete the look.

Tags: black white, chrome Lucite, medicine cabinet, pattern black, pattern black white, rounded edges

Install A Hanger Bar

If you're planning to install a new ceiling fan or chandelier that will put some weight on the ceiling, be sure something above the ceiling will support that weight. If a beam is directly above the fixture, all you have to do is mount the fan or chandelier. If no beam exists, and you don't have access from the attic, your best bet is to install a hanger bar.

Instructions

1. Purchase a ceiling fan expandable metal hanger bar. This will provide the support needed, while enabling you to bridge whatever size gap exists between the beams or joists.

2. Remove the existing junction box from the ceiling.

3. Expand the hole in the ceiling with a jig saw, if needed, for the end of the hanger bar to slip through.

4. Slip one end of the hanger bar up through the hole to guide the whole piece through.

5. Expand the hanger bar until it is snugly against both beams.

6. Use a wrench to give the expansion screw a full turn so that the prongs of the hanger bar dig into the beams. These prongs will provide the support for the fixture.

7. Patch the ceiling if your cut for the hanger bar made the hole too large. Continue with fan or chandelier installation.

Tags: provide support, will provide, will provide support

Create Faux Ceiling Beams

To spruce up the look of a room, consider installing faux ceiling beams. Since faux beams do not provide any structural support, you can make them out of wooden boxes, plastic foam, polyurethane or resin. Lightweight faux beams make overhead installation easier, and you can apply almost any paint or finish you desire to achieve your favorite effect, such as rough-hewn wood or shiny varnish. You can add architectural interest to your interior decor in just a day or two.

Instructions

1. Calculate the total length of beam material you will need. Measure the ceiling's width and multiply by the number of beams you want in the room. This equals the total length of material you will need. Add 5 to 10 percent, to have enough extra in case of any mistakes.

2. Make outlines with painter's tape on the ceiling where you want to install the beams. Use the stud finder to locate the studs within these outlines and mark them with a pencil on the painters' tape outside of where the faux beams will be placed. This way, you can later see where the mounting blocks are when you cover them with the faux beam material.

3. Begin with the board for the bottom of the beam, the side that will face the floor. Attach two boards of equal width along the long edges of the bottom plank, to form the sides of the faux beam. It is a good idea to use narrower boards for the sides of your faux beams. This makes them lighter and easier to mount. Since the ends of the beams will touch the wall, it will not be necessary to close them. Paint or finish the beams as you like.

4. Cut mounting blocks from two-inch by two-inch lumber. Measure the inner width of the faux beams and cut the blocks to fit. For example, if the inside of your faux beam is four inches, each mounting block will be four inches wide, two inches high, and two inches thick. You will need one mounting block for every stud you marked on the painters tape.

5. Attach a mounting block at each stud you marked on the tape. It will span the width of the faux beam inside. Use heavy-duty screws to ensure they are securely attached to the studs above the ceiling. Position the blocks carefully in a straight line or you will not be able to mount the beams on them.

6. Try and place the beams over the mounting blocks to make sure they fit correctly. If they do not fit, reposition the mounting blocks for proper fit. Then apply construction adhesive to the edges of the beam that will come in contact with the ceiling. Also apply glue to the sides of each mounting block where it will contact the beam inside. Set the glued beam over the wooden blocks, tightly against the ceiling.

7. Screw through the sides of the beam into each of the mounting blocks, countersinking them slightly. Wipe away any excess glue with a damp cloth.

8. Fill the countersinks with matching wood filler or putty. Paint if needed.

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Paint A Beamed Ceiling

Paint a Beamed Ceiling

Ceilings that have exposed wood beams present a special problem when it is time to repaint, at least if you don't want any of that paint getting on the wood. Taping the edges of the beams where they meet the ceiling is not enough, because when you roll the paint onto the ceiling it will inevitably spatter on the sections of the beam without tape. This guide provides a procedure for wrapping the entire beam using broadsheet newspapers, most of which happen to be just wide enough to cover all three exposed sides of a standard 6 x 6 wood beam.

Instructions

1. Set your ladder under the first beam, at one end. If the beam rises to a peak, start at the peak.

2. Tear a broadsheet section of newspaper lengthwise, so you have a full front page about a foot and a half wide. Wrap the paper around the beam, with the length of the paper lining up to the length of the beam, to make sure it will cover all three exposed sides of the beam. It's okay if the paper is bigger than the beam and sags in the middle.

3. Take the paper back down and tear a bunch of broadsheet sections into single pages until you have a stack of them. Pull out a length of painter's tape about as long as the length of the newspaper. Press it to the long edge of one of the pages of newspaper, so that the paper covers about half the width of the tape. Repeat on the other edge of the newspaper, so that the paper is bordered on both long sides by tape, with part of the tape exposed off the edge. Make sure not to let the exposed sticky side of the tape touch anything. Repeat the process to get a dozen or so pages bordered with tape.

4. Take two of the sheets and drape one on the top of the ladder and raise the other one to the beam. Press the long, sticky edge of the tape to the length of the beam on one side, right at the corner where the beam meets the ceiling. Wrap the page around the beam and press the other side of the tape into the other corner where the beam meets the ceiling on the other side. The beam should be completely wrapped by the length of the newspaper.

5. Put the second sheet of paper up next to the first, overlapping slightly at the edges. Repeat the process with the rest of the sheets, making more as you need them, until all the beams are completely wrapped in newspaper. Put additional painter's tape over the ends of the beams, along the width of the end pieces of newspaper where it meets the wall.

6. Paint the ceiling by first cutting in around the taped beams with a brush, then using a roller on an extended handle to do the rest of the surface. Do not remove the newspapers from the beams until you have finished as many coats of paint as you are going to do.

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Teen Bathroom Decor

Not having to share a bathroom with your teen daughter: priceless.

Younger children seem to spend as little time as possible in the bathroom, but, for teens, the bathroom becomes the most important room in the house. In a one-bathroom home, the excessive bathing and primping routines of adolescents -- both girls and boys -- can leave other family members waiting in line. In a home with more than one bath, a teen might have a personal bathroom and want to create an unusual design for the room. Making this specialized space appealing to young adults is easy, but choosing teen bathroom decor is about more than what meets the eye.

Organization

One of the most important aspects of teen bath design is providing ample storage and a simple plan for keeping everything organized. Teens are notorious for creating clutter, and, while a teen bath should be an enjoyable and appealing interior environment, focusing on the room's functionality will make it easier to clean. Install a vanity with deep drawers for storage and a large enough countertop area to spread out grooming and beauty supplies. Add unconventional storage options, such as open shelves, colorful stacked bins and customizable pegboard hooks to make keeping the room neat easy for on-the-go teens. If space allows, place a hamper in the bathroom to keep dirty laundry from landing on the floor.

Mirrors and Lighting

Teen girls are especially thrilled to plant themselves in front of a large mirror; a three-way mirror is the ideal option for extended hair and makeup sessions, and a full-length mirror on the back of the door comes in handy for obsessive wardrobe checks. Fixtures that provide ample lighting above mirrors are a requirement in a teen girl's' bathroom, whatever the mirror size.

Teen Bathroom Decor

A teen wants an individualized bathroom that expresses his personality, so involve him in the decor planning. If he asks for neon green walls, you can always repaint when he heads off to college. To make future redecorating easier, stick with white walls and let your teen pick out a vibrant shower curtain, bathmat, wastebasket, toothbrush holder, soap dish and towels to personalize the space.

Shared Teen Bathrooms

When two or more kids are sharing a bathroom, a few additional strategies can help to make the space a success. Install double sinks to keep morning routines running smoothly, and color-code accessories for convenience. For a unisex room, paint the walls in a neutral hue and assign each teen a bold signature color for towels and storage bins. If space is limited, set up a compact primping area in each teen's bedroom, and store only the bare essentials in the bathroom: shampoo, soap and toothpaste.

Tags: Bathroom Decor, each teen, more than, most important, teen bath, Teen Bathroom

Different Ceiling Designs

Ceiling designs vary greatly in height and shape.

A home element as seemingly simple as a ceiling takes great architect, design, and skill. Over the years, many different ceiling designs have evolved and contributed to the distinctive appearances in the American home.

Conventional

This is the most traditional and simple ceiling design available. They are typically flat panels raised to a height of around 8 feet. They are easily built and versatile.

Suspended

These are just different versions of conventional ceilings with an industrial appearance. They consist of unfastened ceiling panels laid into a metal grid and suspended from an existing ceiling or floor above it. Suspended ceilings have the advantage of being able to hide mechanical fixtures or older ceilings and are most commonly used in basements.

Cathedral

Cathedral ceilings are high ceilings that attach to the roof trusses and rise all the way to the top of the house. They give a spacious and open feel to a room. They are visually appealing, but may cause heating and cooling to become expensive due to the large volume of air in the home.

Shed

These ceilings are similar to cathedral ceilings because the ceiling line slopes up at one end but the rise angle is not as steep. They are usually built with an attic above them for insulation and ventilation.

Vaulted

Vaulted ceilings arch upwards from the walls to create a spacious feel.

Tray

Tray ceilings have a flat center with sides sloping in from the walls to resemble an upside down tray.

Tags: ceilings have, from walls, simple ceiling

Install 12 Ft Beadboard Planks For A Ceiling

Table saw

Beadboard ceiling planks are just like regular, flat ceiling planks, except they have parallel lines all along their lengths to give the impression that the individual boards are only about 2 inches wide. In fact, they are usually 8 to 12 inches wide. If you've got 12-foot beadboard and your room is longer than 12 feet, you can stagger the ends of the boards to different joists. This will give the ceiling a random, natural look.

Instructions

1. Mark each joist in the ceiling, using an electronic stud finder to locate them and a level and pencil to draw the lines.

2. Measure along the edge of the ceiling by the wall where you want to start. It has to be a wall that's perpendicular to the joists. Find the last joist within 12 feet of the end, and measure from the center of that joist back to the wall.

3. Mark a piece of beadboard at that measurement. Subtract 3/8 inch from the measurement. Cut it with a miter saw, at 90 degrees, straight across.

4. Hold the board to the ceiling, from one end of the wall out to the joist that you measured to. Put the groove toward wall. Set the end of the board 3/8 inch from the starting wall, to allow for wood expansion. This should put the end of the board right at the middle of the joist, since you subtracted 3/8 inch from the cut. The long side of the board should be 3/8 inch from the side wall.

5. Shoot finish nails through the board, straight up, two nails per joist.

6. Measure the remaining space at the end of the board. Cut and install another board to fit there, leaving 3/8 inch of space at the walls.

7. Measure and cut the first board for the second course so that it lands on a joist other than the one you took it to the first time. Connect the board to the first course by its tongue-and-groove settings. Nail it through the sides, shooting one nail per joist at an upward angle.

8. Continue across the ceiling in courses, staggering the end of each board to a different joist than the board next to it. You can start each course at either end, so the end-seams aren't all on one side of the room.

9. Cut the final course of boards along their lengths on a table saw so they will fit against the last wall, with 3/8 inch of space there. Install wood trim around the edges of the ceiling with your miter saw and nailer to cover up the 3/8-inch gaps.

Tags: inch from, along their, along their lengths, ceiling planks, inch space, inches wide

The Best Interior Wall Colors For High Ceilings

Create a sense of warmth by adding wall color in rooms with high ceilings.

The builder opts for white walls in a room with a cathedral ceiling, but colorless walls leave the interior feeling cold and impersonal. Many people, content with bland paint choices, attempt to create warmth with furnishings and accessories alone. That approach often falls short. Take things a step further. Tame the soaring white expanses with a fresh coat of paint. Add a little or a lot of color to dramatically change the architectural perspective of the space.

Monochromatic Dual Tone

Instead of playing it safe with one color, be adventurous and try a two-tone monochromatic technique in a room with high ceilings. Using a lighter and darker tone from the same paint color card will add a sense of proportion to spaces with soaring ceilings. To cut the height of tall ceilings, use the lighter tone on the ceiling, and extend it down onto the upper portion of the wall. Ground the room by painting the lower wall sections with the darker color. This effect lowers the space's sight line, shortening the visual wall height.

Rich Accent Wall

Painting one wall with a contrasting color creates a focal wall that works particularly well in rooms with high ceilings. Begin by painting the other walls a neutral color, such as beige or tan. If the existing neutral wall paint is in good condition, simply select a complementary accent wall color. Rich earth tones like terracotta or brick red will reflect light, brightening the space and diminishing the effect of the high ceiling. The use of a rich, saturated accent wall color also serves to make the space feel more inviting.

Warm Colors

Warm up cavernous rooms with high ceilings by enveloping them in warm color. Browns, deep reds and golds take a massive white room and instantly transform it into a cozy living environment. Concentrated color on the walls give the perception of a smaller, more intimate space. If saturated color is intimidating, opt for muted versions of warm colors. Adding crisp white molding will give the room a classic, sophisticated finishing touch.

Neutrals

Paint the walls in a soft neutral. A neutral paint and furnishings scheme exudes elegance and enhances high ceilings. Neutral colors can be identified by their ability to blend with most other colors. Neutrals includes creams, tans, taupes and beiges. This paint choice complements open design floor plans with large windows. Flooding a neutral room with natural light adds warmth without the use of saturated color.

Tags: high ceilings, with high, with high ceilings, room with, rooms with, rooms with high

Redecorate Over Paneling Walls

Wood paneling can sometimes make a room look dreary so redecorating is often preferred.

Paneling can give rooms a woodsy, rustic charm, but it can also look old fashioned or darken a room, making it seem dreary. While the ideal scenario would be to remove the paneling, you may not know the condition of the wall underneath it. The wall could have a host of problems including cracks or lack of finish. Thus, it's safest to redecorate on top of the wall paneling.

Instructions

1. Mix one-quarter cup all purpose cleanser in a bucket with one gallon of water. Wash the walls thoroughly with the solution and a sponge. Rinse off the walls and allow them to dry thoroughly.

2. Apply spackle to the ridges of the paneling with a putty knife and allow it to dry. Sand the spackle down to a smooth surface with 100-grit sandpaper.

3. Prime the surface with latex primer and two coats of latex paint with a paint roller. Allow the paint to dry between coats.

4. For a look that's bolder than paint, wallpaper over the paneling. Apply wallpaper paste to the back of the wallpaper and position it in place, starting on one edge and working your way to the other side of the wall.

5. If you prefer to leave the paneling, choose decorations to liven up the wall. Hang a framed mirror or large piece of art in the center of the paneling. A mirror will reflect the light in the room and a bright piece of art will add a splash of color or design. Alternatively, consider hanging a tapestry or ornamental piece of wrought iron. whatever pieces you choose, they shouldn't take up more than 1/3 of the whole wall.

6. Install track or recessed lighting in the ceiling above the walls. This will add an overall sense of brightness to the room.

Tags: surface with

Create A Beachthemed Living Room

Many dream of a life near the beach with beautiful water views and gorgeous sunsets. For most of us, however, the prohibitive cost of beachfront property inspires us to come up with alternative ways to bring the beach home. If you love the beach but don't live near enough for frequent visits, you can create a "beach feel" right in your own living room.

Instructions

1. Establish your personal definition of a beach. Peruse beach-themed magazines and books for ideas. Make a list of elements and colors that you associate with a day at the beach. Decide how you want the completed room to feel.

2. Create a color palette. Use crisp white and blue with bold red accents, or choose an array of soft whites and blues that look sunwashed and relaxed. Limit the palette to two main colors, and add one or two accent colors.

3. Keep things spare and casual by using comfortable, overstuffed furniture and distressed wood or whitewashed tables and accent pieces. Use easy-care cotton slipcovers for a cozy look that invites relaxation.

4. Choose fabrics that are reminiscent of the beach. Use linen, cotton, cotton duck and canvas for upholstery. Consider linen, sheer cotton and voile for window treatments, or install simple canvas blinds.

5. Bring seashells into the room to continue the beach theme. Group a few large, bold shells on a table top or mantel. Collect conch, nautilus, starfish, sand dollar, scallop and others, and line them up on a mantle or table; or, use only one type, like conchs or urchins.

6. Focus the room on a central image, like a large, framed photograph or artwork depicting a beach theme. Consider beachscapes, marine still-lives or architectural renderings. Remember that less is more: one large piece makes a more powerful statement than several smaller items.

7. Use the visual space beyond the room to continue the beach theme. Cultivate tall grasses or palm-like plants outside the living room window, if the climate permits.

Tags: beach theme, continue beach, continue beach theme, room continue, room continue beach

Decorate A Living Room In A Southwestern Design

Rugs with geometric patterns enhance the southwest theme.

Natural and comfortable are two words associated with southwestern decorating. This decorating style is comfortable and relaxed, mirroring the wide open feel of the terrain as well as the peaceful ambiance of being at one with nature. The deserts, valleys, mountains, and forests of the Southwestern United States inspire much of the colors found in this style. Keeping simplicity and tranquility in mind, it's easy to create a southwestern style living room.

Instructions

1. Fill your room with colors from nature. Southwestern style is all about pulling from the natural world. Decorate with colors that fill the earth and sky, such as midnight blue, turquoise, bright red and pale green. Don't forget earthy brown and gray colors to bring stability to your room.

2. Decorate your living room with sturdy wooden furniture that looks slightly distressed. These pieces fit in with the informal mood of southwest decor. Another alternative is light-colored wood. For a more authentic look, find pieces adorned with iron details. Leather and suede are other options for furniture within this d cor style.

3. Paint your living room walls with neutral colors. The Southwest style is comfortable and warm, and light taupe or buttery colors enhance this mood while allowing you to use furniture and accessories to add color to the room.

4. Hang simple flowing window treatments in natural or light fabrics in your living room. Colors should not be bold or brash, but blend with your color palette. Long sheers that blow in the breeze come in a variety of colors and will soften the room.

5. Hang southwestern artwork in your room. Choose pieces that coordinate with your d cor, such as in the Mexican or Native American styles. Look for paintings as well as rugs to give your room a genuine feel. Metal art is another option for walls. Choose tapestries with colorful geometric patterns to bring pops of color into your living room.

6. Decorate with antiques and vintage pieces to create a unique look in your living room. Look for distinctive objects, such as wagon wheels, carvings, jewelry, dream catchers and antlers to enhance the theme in your room. Authentic pottery pieces add instant character to your room.

Tags: your room, your living, your living room, living room, room Decorate, Decorate with

Kitchen Wall Design Ideas

The main focuses in kitchen design are typically the flooring, countertops and cabinets. Designing walls is often overlooked. A well-chosen wall design can serve as a work of art that inspires you to cook up the best kind of meals for the whole family. Compared to the rest of the kitchen, it is less expensive to design walls. This allows for more creative liberties and room to experiment with patterns and colors.

Wallpaper

Many homeowners do not prefer to use wallpaper due to the hassle it is to take down. Wallpaper in the kitchen can also make it look dated. Wallpaper can tie in all the colors of the kitchen. Add wallpaper to only one wall in the kitchen for a contemporary look. To have a more modern feel, find a wallpaper with large print or a graphic pattern. Staying with the modern look, many opt for wallpaper that is black and white or black and gray.

Metal and Copper

Metal backsplashes in the kitchen can tie in the appliances. If your decorating budget is low, roof flashing can give the look of stainless steel; however, it may not hold up as well as real stainless steel. Flashing is half the price, but unfortunately you get what you paid for. There are also certain tiles that can give the look of stainless steel. Mix and match different finishes to add a unique look. An example, find a tile with a shiny finish and mix it with a matte finish to create a harlequin look.

Add a little color and warmth with a copper backsplash. The copper will patina or oxidize over time, which adds in extra colors and give the kitchen an aged appearance. Pair granite countertops that has specks of orange in it with copper and cherry-colored cabinets for a Tuscan old-world look.

Murals

Wall murals can take the place of decorative tiles. Go for a more elegant mural and leave the sky paintings for the kids' room and nursery. For a Tuscan feel, a fresco wall mural would work. Try painting a series of ornate frames in basic black with a scene inside to give it the illusion of an actual painting. You could take a frame and make it look like a window with an outdoor theme painted inside. For a more custom feel, rent a projector and trace the image on the wall.

Replace A Light In A Flushmount Ceiling Light

Replacing a light bulb in a flush-mount ceiling light fixture is a very simple task. Removing the glass globe will allow access to the burned-out bulbs. Depending on how high the ceiling is, you may need a step stool or ladder to reach the light fixture. If this is the case, be sure the stool or ladder is stable while you are climbing up and climbing down. It is a good idea to have an assistant hold the ladder steady while you climb up and down it, to be certain the ladder doesn't tip.

Instructions

1. Turn the power off to the light fixture.

2. Unscrew the retainer nuts that hold the glass globe onto the fixture, and carefully lower the glass globe. Place the glass in a safe location so it will not get broken.

3. Unscrew the burned-out bulb (or bulbs) in the fixture, and dispose of the bulb where it can't break and cut someone. If the burned-out bulb is a compact fluorescent lamps, find out if there is a location near you where you can recycle it, such as a large home and garden center.

4. Replace the burned-out bulbs with compact fluorescent lights by screwing them into the light fixture. Tighten as you would any other light bulb.

5. Turn the light switch on to test the light fixture.

6. Turn off the light, and replace the glass globe.

Tags: light fixture, glass globe, burned-out bulb, burned-out bulbs, compact fluorescent, light bulb, stool ladder

Installing Wall Paneling

Paneling comes in many forms that vary from the inexpensive to the exquisite. Here are a few guidelines for installing 4-by-8-foot sheets of paneling that can be purchased at your local building supply place. Take note that paneling usually looks best when the height of the paneling is not interrupted, so if your room is eight feet tall or less in height then installing paneling may be a good choice for you. Taller rooms can also take paneling, but note that at some point there will be a horizontal seam, where the two pieces meet. This article will only deal with installing a single piece.

Instructions

1. Locate the studs. Most likely you will be installing paneling over top of plasterboard or old plaster, so the location of each stud is very important. If you are doing a new installation, the studs will already be visible, so you can skip this step. Mark each stud on the wall and establish what type of spacing is present (i.e. 16 or 24-inches on center). Please note that panel installation always go better with framing members that are 16-inches on center.

2. Find the first stud that is 48 inches from the edge of the corner. If there is one at exactly 48 inches you are in luck. If not, proceed to the closest mark that does not exceed the 48-inch width of a sheet of plywood and mark that stud.

3. Take a 4-foot level and make a line that is right in the center of the stud and perfectly level.

4. Cut the paneling to width. Beware that the corner of the room may not be square with the line that you made with your level, so check closely. This cut should be made with a sharp utility knife and then smoothed down with a small block plane.

5. Cut the paneling to height. Again do not assume that the height is uniform across the entire sheet of paneling. Double check to make sure. Take note that most paneling can be cut with a sharp utility knife and a 8-foot straight edge. All you have to do is run the knife over the line a few times until the knife cuts through the panel. Also there are specially-made circular saws that can do the job. They have smaller blades that spin at a higher rpm, so the saw can make a clean cut.

6. Make all auxiliary cuts. That includes doors, windows, electrical outlets and light fixtures. For a nice looking finished job make these cuts as tight as possible.

7. Nail the entire piece of paneling to the wall. Use special panel nails and make sure they are long enough to penetrate the paneling and the sheetrock or plaster. Short nails are available for paneling that is directly applied to the wood frame. Nail to each stud going from bottom to top and then proceed to the next framing member.

8. Complete the rest of the wall going one piece at a time. Make sure every 4-foot piece should fall directly on a stud. If this is not the case, then you will have to make an extra cut. Certain styles of paneling take better to this shortening than others, so it might be a good idea to check out the framing structure of the room beforehand.

9. Start and complete the next wall in the same manner.

Tags: note that, each stud, installing paneling, line that, made with, make sure

Convert A Standard Roof Truss Ceiling To A Vaulted Ceiling

Converting a flat ceiling into a vaulted ceiling requires planning.

Converting a conventional flat roof with trusses to a vaulted ceiling will create an open, spacious-looking living space. A vaulted ceiling angles up from the top plates of the wall sections. This design element makes a room appear larger and provides more natural light. Trusses consist of triangular-shaped components that hold up the roof and keep the wall sections in alignment.

Instructions

Preparation

1. Consult with a structural engineer about the project and have drawings completed. The likely design option may involve removal of the existing trusses and replacing them with a scissors truss system, which uses about 50 percent of the pitch of the existing roof. The engineer must compute the roof load, such as snow accumulation, roofing materials and other factors. This computation ensures the new trusses have the proper dimensions.

2. Verify that the engineer outlines the correct spacing for the new trusses and the method for securing them to the top of the wall sections. These elements make for a safe roof and keep the structure from sagging, warping or collapsing under a heavy load.

3. Submit the engineer's drawings to the local building code department for approval. The drawings may require the structural engineer's stamp. Apply for a building permit before starting the project.

4. Obtain approval from the building code department to begin the project. Locate a truss fabricator and order the scissors trusses. Allow time in the project for the manufacture and delivery of the new components.

Ceiling Material Removal

5. Inspect the attic for electrical connections, telephone wires, pipes, heating ducts and other systems. Disconnect these components in the area where the vaulted ceiling will go. Refer to the engineer's drawings when rerouting these items.

6. Set up a work platform in the room where you will begin removing the ceiling. Construct a work platform by placing planks between two stepladders. Some tool rental stores have rolling platforms, which make maneuvering and working over large areas and overhead easier.

7. Open the windows to allow dust to escape and bring in fresh air. Apply masking tape around the doors to prevent dust from entering adjacent rooms. In addition, cover vents, wall fixtures and other ceiling elements.

8. Start in a corner of the room. Make a hole in the plaster or drywall with a hammer. Rip out all the materials, such as drywall or plaster and lath, with a pry bar. Have a helper move the debris to a corner of the room or outside to a container. Do not remove the trusses at this point.

Scissors Truss System Installation

9. Cut out and remove the existing trusses one at a time with a reciprocal saw. Secure the replacement scissors truss in place in accordance with the engineer's instructions. This ensures the proper structural support remains in place until completion of the modification.

10. Refer to the drawings to meet the ceiling's ventilation requirements. Most rules require 1 square foot of venting for each 150 square feet of space. Install rafter vents if necessary. The vents create a minimum 1- to 2-inch cavity between the insulation and the roof sheathing, which allows the space to breathe.

11. Install the insulation. Some local codes require installing vapor barriers to keep moisture from the interior of the home from entering the area behind the new ceiling. Purchase insulation with a vapor barrier facing already attached if needed. Reroute cables, electrical wires and duct work. Finish the new ceiling by adding drywall or put a decorative finish on the wood for an exposed look.

Tags: wall sections, building code, building code department, ceiling will, code department, corner room, engineer drawings

Public Bathroom Decorating Ideas

Restroom

Public bathrooms can be notoriously drab, boring and cold, not to mention are often dirty and unpleasant. If you are the owner of a business that offers public bathrooms, you may want to put some thought into decorating your bathroom so that it is calm and inviting, and gives customers a generally pleasant experience. Having a clean and inviting bathroom can bring repeat customers to you, as they'll associate your business with that pleasant feeling. Here are some bathroom decorating ideas.

Lighting

One of the biggest changes you can make while decorating a public bathroom is to address the problem of lighting. Public bathrooms most always have bright, utilitarian fluorescent lighting. Fluorescent lighting is economical but not very attractive. Remedy the problem by adding more lighting for a classier look. You could try placing sconces on the walls or even a small table with a large lamp on it to diffuse the bright cast from the fluorescent lighting. Address lighting as you would at home; finding lighting for functional and accent purposes.

Mirrors

Public bathroom mirrors are almost always the same; either long slaps or single mirrors that are plain and have harsh edges. Consider changing them out for framed mirrors. You can find interesting mirrors at flea markets, antique auctions and estate sales. The new mirrors don't all need to be the same, group different styles of mirrors for an interesting and eclectic look to your bathroom. Replace one long slab mirror with many smaller mirrors to create a contemporary look that customers will appreciate.

Accessories

Don't be afraid to bring some items into the public bathroom that make customers feel comfortable, like they would in their bathroom at home. Decorative towels folded in the corner of the counter can soften an ugly counter. A small table with a vase and some fresh flowers do wonders to a public bathroom. Even some attractive artwork on the walls will take away the cold and often military feeling one gets from a public bathroom. Decorate the bathroom with accessories that tie in the theme or decor of the rest of the store, whether it is traditional, modern, contemporary or quirky.

Tags: public bathroom, bathroom that, fluorescent lighting, Public bathrooms, small table

Tips On Installing A Tbar Ceiling

A drop ceiling is a good way to hide imperfections.

A T-Bar ceiling, otherwise known as a drop ceiling, requires interlocking sections of metal bars in the shape of a "T" and foam or fiberglass acoustic panels. The ceiling rests below the original ceiling. It is a good way to hide imperfections in a ceiling during a renovation project to lower the height of a ceiling to make the room proportionate. When installing a T-bar ceiling, it always helps to have a few tips supplied with your instructions to make the task easier.

Instructions

1. Determine the height you want to install the ceiling. For example, if you have 10-foot ceilings you might choose to install the drop ceiling at 8-foot to avoid installing additional drywall during a renovation. As a tip, measure up from the floor with a tape measure and place marks on the wall every 3-to-5-feet. This will make the ceiling level with the floor and not with the original ceiling.

2. Measure the length of each wall in the room where you plan to install the T-Bar ceiling and then record the measurements. As a tip, measure the length of the wall at the chosen height for the T-bar ceiling since a wall is not always the same length at both ends. Measuring at the new ceiling height will give you the most precise measurements.

3. Cut pieces of metal drop ceiling wall trim. Drop ceiling wall trim is bent into 90 degree angles. You will screw it to the wall and the T-bar sections will rest on the trim. This helps to hold up the new ceiling. As a tip, use an electric miter saw. They offer precision cuts and take less time than trying to cut "free hand. Cut each end of the trim at a 45 degree angle. When you install the trim, it will look very professional as the corners will join perfectly.

4. Drill holes though one side of the trim every 2 feet with a hand drill and drill bit that measures slightly larger than the shank on your wood screws. Repeat this with each piece of trim. Do not attempt to drill the holes for the screws while the trim is against the wall. Screws easily slip on metal and the drill bit could slip off and gouge the wall.

5. Place the first piece of trim onto the wall and line the bottom of the trim up against the marks you placed on the wall. Place a level on the top of the trim and position it so it rests level on the wall. Secure the trim to the wall with wood screws and a screwdriver. Repeat this with each piece of trim. Attach a Phillip's screw tip to your hand drill to make the process faster.

6. Measure across the length of the room with your tape measure to determine the length needed for your T-bars.

7. Cut your T-bars to length with the miter saw. Place the flat portion of the T-bar onto the table of the miter saw. This will help you keep the cut straight.

8. Space the T-bars evenly across the trim. As a tip, most acoustic tiles are 2-feet wide. However, measure your tiles' width and then make sure you space each T-bar accordingly. Place the flat part of the T-bar onto the wall trim.

9. Measure the gaps between the T-bars and cut additional T-bars to serve as cross members. You need one cross member for each tile in each row. If your rows are 8 feet long and your tiles are two foot long, you need four tiles to complete a row. Since the first and last tile will rest on the wall trim, you need a cross member between tiles one and two, two and thee and three and four, for a total of three cross members.

10. Cut all of the cross members with the miter saw. Place the flat portion of the T-Bar onto the base of the miter saw when you cut.

11. Place all of the cross members in place between the main T-bars. Work to keep the cross members spaced at the appropriate distances apart. For example, if your titles are 2 feet long, you must space the first cross member 2 feet away from the wall trim and then place the second cross member 2 feet away from the first cross member. If you are off slightly, you can make adjustments when you install the tiles.

12. Thread eyebolts into the original ceiling directly above each T-bar, approximately ever 2 feet. Thread an eyebolt into the original ceiling above each end of each cross member. Slide the shaft of a screwdriver though the eye on the eyebolt and turn the screwdriver clockwise. This will make it easier to thread in the eyebolts.

13. Cut a piece of metal wire approximately 12 inches longer than the gap between the eyebolts and the holes drilled into the T-bars. Use wire cutters or tin snips to make cutting the wires easier.

14. Thread the wires though the suspension holes in the T-bars and then through the holes in the eyelet bolts. Pull the wires through each hole so the wire is tight between both holes and so the same amount of wire extends out of each hole. Wrap the portion of the wire extending through the hole around the wire between the holes to tighten the T-bars in place.

15. Slide each tile up though the T-bars and then place the tile onto the edges of the T-bars. They will rest in place without further attachment. Do not use glue or tape to secure the acoustic tiles to the T-bars as you may need to remove them for maintenance to the original ceiling at some point.

Tags: cross member, cross members, original ceiling, wall trim, drop ceiling, piece trim

Wire An Indoor Home Floor Lamp

Rewiring a floor lamp can add years to its useable life.

Indoor home floor lamps use standard electrical hardware and a 120-volt power cord for wiring. Rewiring an old floor lamp can bring new life to an old fixture. All parts needed for the project are typically available at hardware and electrical supply stores. As with any electrical wiring project, follow all safety precautions when connecting wires to the lamp socket. Buy a power cord long enough to extend the length of the lamp post with enough left over to reach the wall socket where you wish to place the lamp.

Instructions

1. Unplug the lamp's current power cord from the wall socket.

2. Unscrew the lightbulb and remove the lampshade.

3. Loosen the screw in the side of the bulb socket where it attaches to the top of the lamp post. Pull the socket off the post.

4. Slide the metal collar off the socket and remove the tube insulator underneath to expose the two wires attached to the socket by screws.

5. Loosen the two screws with a screwdriver to remove the wires from the old socket. Make a note of which wire is connected to which screw as an aid to rewiring the new socket.

6. Pull the power cord out of the lamp post from the base of the lamp.

7. Insert the new power cord through the hole in the base of the lamp and thread the two wires on the end into the bottom of the lamp post. Push the cord gradually through the lamp post until the two wires at the end emerge through the top of the post.

8. Remove 1/2-inch of insulation from each wire with the wire strippers.

9. Wrap a wire around its corresponding screw terminal on the new lightbulb socket and tighten each screw.

10. Slide the insulator tube over the wiring and slide the metal collar over the insulator tube.

11. Lower the new socket onto the top of the lamp post and secure it by tightening the screw in the side of the socket.

12. Screw in a new light bulb and replace the lamp shade before plugging in the power cord to a wall outlet.

Tags: lamp post, power cord, base lamp, floor lamp, insulator tube, metal collar, Rewiring floor

Cover Up An Ugly Dropped Ceiling

Use gray generics as a base to make faux tin ceiling tiles.

If you've stopped going to your basement because the drop ceiling depresses you, or there's "Land of the Ugly Dropped Ceiling" elsewhere in your home, things may be literally and figuratively looking up for you. Others have walked in your shoes and made changes without undertaking a part-time job to pay for a makeover. Basic ideas follow, but your imagination may take over, allowing you to turn that ugly drop ceiling into a drop dead gorgeous tribute to your ingenuity.

Instructions

1. Turn your ugly ceiling into a vintage work of art by recreating tin tiles across your ceiling expanse. Get rid of the old tiles, leaving the gridwork in place. Spray paint the framework a metallic color that matches the faux tin tiles you'll display. Purchase a carton of 24-inch square polymer tiles in a pattern that best matches the ceiling look you desire -- they're available from companies like Talissa Décor, Ceiling Magnifique and other manufacturers -- in copper, tin, pewter or another metallic color so they look like antique ceiling tiles. Glue the dry tiles to 2-by-4 generic tiles and install them as you would any replacement ceiling tile.

2. Purchase enough sheeting, drop cloths or over-sized tablecloths to span your ceiling -- plus a little extra -- if the faux tin project sounds too complicated. Use a staple gun to attach sections of the fabric to the ceiling grid, starting at the center and fanning out the material to the corners so you distribute the yardage evenly. Pull the fabric taut for a sleek surface that features some pleating. Add drama when covering those ugly drop ceiling tiles by bunching or billowing the fabric to create a one-of-a-kind ceiling. If you've used white cloth, stuff sections with batting and your ugly ceiling will look like a heavenly cloud.

3. Engineer a tent. If the aforementioned idea fell flat when you thought about all that stapling, you can still fashion a ceiling tent. Buy a larger amount of fabric to undertake this job because you'll weave fabric sections in-between the grid. Start at one end of the room and pull sections of fabric through each, dropping the cloth in the middle of each square to approximately the same depth. When you're done, you'll see an intricate pattern of cloth drops that run the length of your ceiling and the framework should be obscured. If you're concerned that it may show through, paint the grid to match the fabric before you begin to undertake the fabric draping that results in the finished tent effect.

4. Install long, bamboo roll-up blinds or rolls of lightweight bamboo fencing to banish that ugly drop ceiling if fabric just isn't your thing. Measure carefully before buying enough fencing or roll-down shades to cover your ceiling in sections. Enlist a friend to help you nail the fencing to one end of the room and then pull it across the expanse, hammering more U-shaped nails into the bamboo sections so they stay snug. If you're carried away by the spirit of the tropics once your ugly ceiling is hidden, add tropical wood trim around room where the bamboo ceiling meets the wall.

Tags: drop ceiling, your ceiling, your ugly ceiling, ceiling tiles, ugly ceiling, ugly drop, ugly drop ceiling

Sand Wood Trim

The intricate shapes of wood trim molding make sanding difficult.

Wood trims, such as wall moldings, require fine sanding to accept the high gloss finishes that are typically used for trim pieces. The profile detail of most wood trim prevents the use of efficient power sanders, such as random orbit and belt sanders. While detail sanders can be used, they are designed for small areas and add a lot of time to the project. Creating a custom wood sanding block is the best solution and will guarantee a quality sanding every time.

Instructions

1. Miter cut a 1-inch piece of your trim off at a 90 degree angle. Position the end of the trim on a block of hardwood lumber 3 inches long and wide enough to cover the whole width of the trim. Trace the profile onto the end of the block with it standing with the 3-inch length upright.

2. Cut the profile into your block with a band saw to create a 3-inch long section, that is a negative, or reverse profile of your molding. Cut a piece of 150-grit sandpaper long enough to fold into the profile on your block 3 inches wide. Apply spray adhesive to the back of the sandpaper and stick it to the profile face, folding it into the details of the profile. Sand down the length of the trim, then replace the paper with 220-grit sandpaper, and sand down the length of the trim again.

3. Sand the trim with the block working from one end. Fit the block into the profile to match it and sand all faces of the profile at once. Work the block in line with the grain, with long back-and-forth strokes. Move down the trim, overlapping your strokes for adequate coverage.

4. Peel used paper from the block and replace it in the same way to keep fresh paper. Create a separate block for each profile of molding you are sanding. Keep the blocks for reuse if you are planning to install the same molding profile again.

Tags: again Sand, block with, down length, down length trim, from block, into profile

Interior Decorating Ideas For Bathroom Design

Decorating your bathroom can add value to your home.