Decorate A Modern Room

In modern decor, neutral shades dominate the room enhanced by accessories that provide a pop of color.

The modern style of decorating appeals to those seeking a fresh, crisp feel in their rooms.Modern decorating lends itself well in any room of the house from the bathroom to the bedroom or kitchen. Create a decluttered, contemporary room by choosing an understated color palette and incorporating minimalist decorating trends into your desired space. Transform your room into a cutting-edge space by purshasing high-style pieces for your room that focus on function and form.

Instructions

1. Draft a budget for your modern space. Choose high-end furniture and fabrics, which will wear well over time. Invest in furnishings and lighting first and focus on accessories and window treatments later.

2. Choose your main color palette for your modern room. Create high contrast with a black and bright white color scheme in a bathroom or kitchen. Add a third color to personalize your modern space. Icy blue glass tile decorating the back-splash works well in a black and white kitchen. Choose a gray color palette with beige walls for a modern living room or dining room. Dominate your room in subdued shades of gray with your furniture and window treatments, adding your personal touch with a pop of violet or lemon yellow.

3. Purchase solid, angular furniture for your modern space. Choose black, gray or beige depending on your color palette. Position a glass-top coffee table or end tables next to the dark furniture for an urban, contemporary feel.

4. Accessorize your room with pops of color. Contrast a contemporary, neutral color palette with a brightly colored piece of art on the walls or an eye-catching floor rug. Paint one wall of a black and white kitchen fire-engine red or simply add red hardware to white cabinet doors.

5. Purchase stainless steel appliances for your modern kitchen or a stainless steel sink for your bathroom. Choose geometric, steel hardware and faucets for your bathroom and kitchen. Place shiny, metallic accents, such as lamps, clocks and picture frames, in your modern bedroom or living room.

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Cut Suspended Ceiling Tiles

Suspended Ceiling

You're almost finished installing your new drop ceiling, but now you face a dilemma: the tiles at the end where the ceiling meets the wall need to be trimmed to fit the space left over. How do you cut suspended ceiling tiles? You'll be relieved to learn it's not too complicated; with a few common tools you'll have them cut; before you know it you'll be inserting the last piece and the project will be complete.

Instructions

1. Measure the length of tile you need, making sure to include the amount needed for the tile to overlap the grid. Your room may not be square so repeat the measuring process for each tile to be cut.

2. Lay the ceiling tile face up on a hard flat surface such as a workbench or concrete floor; you want a surface that will not be damaged if the cut goes through the tile.

3. Mark your measurement at three points along the side of the tile, using a pencil and taking care not to mar the surface. If the measurements determined that the tile needs to be wider at one end than the other check to be sure the direction is correct.

4. Align a straight edge along the pencil marks and hold it tight to the tile so it cannot shift.

5. Slice the tile along the straight edge, using a utility knife at its largest blade setting.

6. Snap the waste portion from the ceiling tile. If the cut didn't go all the way through, gently score the back side with the knife to finish the cut.

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Use Bondo For Wood Repair

You can repair wood with Bondo to make it look as good as new.

If you have an older home and have had estimates for replacing old, rotted-out window and door sills, you know how expensive it can be. Bondo, the same product used as auto-body epoxy filler, has been used by handymen for years to repair damaged wood. In fact, it works so well that the makers of Bondo now sell a similar epoxy product just for wood. If you have old, worn out, even rotting woodwork on your home, and you want to save money on expensive replacement costs, try Bondo.

Instructions

1. Scrape out as much of the crumbling, loose wood as possible. Let it dry out. You can use a fan or blow dryer if you need to, but the area has to be dry for the Bondo to stick.

2. Fill the freezer bag with the Bondo mixture, then snip off a corner of the bag and use it to squeeze the Bondo into tight areas. Paintbrushes and putty knives can be used to mold and form the material as best you can. Work quickly because it dries hard in 10-15 minutes. If the repair is very deep you may want to do two coats. Do the best you can to get the repair to conform to the shape you want, to minimize a lot of arduous sanding later on. Bondo is hard to sand once dry.

3. Sand the Bondo. A palm sander allows you to work edges and finesse the sander to achieve the profile you want. Start off with 100-grit sandpaper for rough areas, but finish the job with 200-grit paper, otherwise you will scratch the surface.

4. Paint two coats with your chosen paint over the repair, and you're finished. Bondo requires no special primer, it is impervious to rust and moisture.

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The Top Bedroom Design Ideas With Chandeliers

Be careful of electrical wiring when decorating a chandelier.

The warm light of a chandelier turns a boring bedroom into a cozy refuge that you'll love retreating to. Chandeliers also make for dramatic centerpieces, setting the tone for look and style of the room while serving a practical purpose. A new, modern chandelier is a worthwhile decorating splurge, though old ones can be given new life with a little creativity.

Accent Lighting

Draw attention to your bed with a chandelier, giving the room a centered feel while upping the romance factor. Hang a chandelier above the bed, turning it into a dramatic centerpiece bathed in warm, gentle light. Complete the scene by hanging a pair of wall sconces on either side of a painting or a shelf to provide balance, using an idea from Overstock. Equip the chandelier with a dimmer to make finding the perfect level of brightness simple.

Accessorize

Just like an outfit, a chandelier can be accessorized to give it that extra zing. Add some sparkle to a chandelier by hanging a strand of beads over it, as suggested by Home Made Simple. Try a string of colored glass beads or some made from wood for a funky, bohemian look and compliment them with a few matching throw pillows and drape a few strands around the bed frame as well.

Beyond the Center

Hanging a chandelier in the center of a ceiling is dramatic, but place one in another parts of the bedroom is fresh and different. Try hanging two small chandeliers over a bureau or dresser for an inventive, unconventional look. Alternately, place a big, cozy armchair in one corner of the room, as recommended by Regency Shop and hang a chandelier over it for an eye-catching reading nook. Place a mirror close to the chandelier to reflect its light throughout the room, maximizing its lighting capability.

Paint

Give a chandelier a second life with a fresh coat of paint, allowing it to work with, and not against, your bedroom's decor. A gaudy brass chandelier looks simple and classy when covered in black or white paint, which also updates the look of older chandeliers that are showing their age. Try painting your chandelier in a shade found on your bedsheets for a chic, coordinated look that pulls the room together to create balance.

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Convert A Lamp To A Hanging Lamp

Convert an old lamp with an attractive, usable shade into a hanging, or pendant, lamp.

Hanging lamps provide light without taking up extra space on end tables or along a wall. You can use hanging lamps as space-saving lighting on each side of your bed, in a reading area or over your bar. If you have a beloved lamp that has an unattractive base or is falling apart, but has an attractive, usable shade, you can extend its life by converting it into a hanging lamp. Since hanging lamps require a hanging socket, you'll replace everything on your original lamp except for the lamp shade.

Instructions

1. Remove the lamp's shade. Depending on the shade, you might need to unscrew the finial at the top of the lamp to accomplish this, or you might just pull off the shade. Also unscrew the light bulb if it's still in good condition. Set everything else aside for donation.

2. Trim away 1 inch of insulation from the plugless end of the cord. Use the wire stripper for this, and pull and twist at the end of the cord with it. This exposes the cord's two wires.

3. Pull the lamp shade onto this cord if the shade is the type that is screwed-on with a finial; otherwise, skip this step. The bottom of the lamp shade should face away from the plug.

4. Disassemble your socket. It should have four parts, which include its top metal cap, metal casing, cardboard shell and the actual socket. The socket has two screws which protrude from the sides.

5. Pull the exposed end of this cord through your metal rod, and then through the metal cap of your socket. The wider opening of your metal cap should face in the same direction as the exposed wires.

6. Wrap one wire clockwise around a screw on one side of the socket, and wrap the other wire counterclockwise around the opposite screw. Re-assemble the socket.

7. Cover any remaining lengths of exposed wire with electrical tape or shrink wrap tubing. If you use the shrink tubing, you'll need to heat the tubing with a heat gun or hair dryer to get it to shrink around the wire.

8. Screw the light bulb into the socket. Your hanging lamp is complete once you pull down your lamp shade over the socket, unless you have a clip-on shade. If you are converting that lamp type, clip the shade onto the bulb to complete the hanging lamp.

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Design A Black Bathroom

Chrome fixtures offer sharp contrast with black tubs and showers.

Though overuse of black decor in a smaller bathroom can cause the room to feel small, black accents and fixtures can add a posh and modern edge to your motif. Patterned walls featuring black and white animal print, houndstooth, pinstripes or polka dots keep the room from feeling closed up, while bright accents in hot pink, lime green and electric blue give the room a youthful feel. Platinum and chrome accents are versatile enough to use in a variety of decor styles and can transition easily through redecorating and changed motifs.

Instructions

1. Establish a budget for your bathroom design. Include the costs of new black bathtubs, sinks and toilets as well as the installation and related tools or supplies. You will also need to account for paint, wallpaper and other basic decor in addition to accents, linens and other bath accessories to incorporate black, along with white, red or other colors, into your decor.

2. Determine what to completely change within the bathroom versus what to update with paint or a new finish. This is often heavily reliant on the budget for each element of the renovation or redesign. Simple coats of paint are inexpensive ways to revitalize a space and can introduce a new color without requiring the permanent change tile or bathtubs can. Stripes, damask patterns or traced and stenciled black and white designs add contrast.

3. Plan the redesign, including any rearranging of fixtures, additions or removals to the space and a general look at the overall design for the room. Use graphing paper to create a scale drawing of the space and to help you determine sizes and orientation of fixtures. While planning the redesign, decide what items will integrate black into the design.

4. Paint and accessorize the bathroom, using several coats of a glossy or semi-gloss paint. Accent with reusable black and white, black and red or black and silver wall decals or a wallpaper border. Often wallpaper panels in bathrooms are damaged by the humidity and repeated moisture exposure, so borders can retain the benefits of wallpaper without the risk of warping or peeling. Decorate with linens that complement the chic new shade of your bathroom.

Tags: black white, your bathroom

What Are The Emergency Lighting Requirements In Commercial Bathrooms

Lighted exit signs are part of the emergency lighting requirements.

Commercial bathrooms need to be compliant with certain regulations regarding emergency lighting. If power service is interrupted in your building, building occupants need to be able to safely exit without getting hurt. Knowing what these regulations are will help you provide a safe building for all who enter it.

Lighting Controls

The lighting in the bathroom must be controlled automatically. The lights can come on when someone enters the bathroom, then turn off when that person leaves. However, most importantly, when the power goes off, the emergency lights must come on automatically.

Amount of Light Provided by Emegency Lights

According to the Life Safety Code Section 7.8.1.3 of NFPA 101, the "floors and other walking surfaces within an exit and within portions of the exit access and exit discharge designated in 7.8.1.1 shall be illuminated to values of at least one footcandle measured at the floor." This will allow anyone to clearly see the signs marking the exit path from the bathroom.

Length of Time for Emergency Lighting

Emergency lighting needs to be provided for at least an hour and a half, giving building occupants time to find an exit.

Placement of Emergency Lights

Thanks to the position of stalls, providing the proper amount of emergency lighting can be difficult. Placing the emergency lighting directly over the stalls may be necessary.

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Kitchen Walls Around Counter Tops Decorating Ideas

The backsplash is small enough to decorate extensively, but inexpensively.

The wall around the countertop is called the backsplash, and is a good place to add a splash of flair to your kitchen. Its location makes it highly visible, and its relatively small size allows you to splurge a bit on materials. There are many options to decorate kitchen walls, but whatever you choose should be washable and not affected by heat, since it will be close to the stove and other food preparation areas.

Tile

Tile is the most popular kitchen wall decor, and with good reason. The sheer variety of tile types means there's something to fit nearly any style and budget, and because backsplashes are usually small, it can be installed fairly quickly. Use stone tile for a rustic look, brightly painted ceramic tile for a "cucina," or glass or metal tile for a contemporary feel. Look at different tile shapes --- square tiles are everywhere, so choose a round, oblong or octagonal tile to make your kitchen unique. Experiment with installing the tile horizontally, vertically or diagonally, or try a combination of the three if you're feeling adventurous. You may want to do a food-related mosaic.

Fresco

If you have a bit of artistic skill, consider painting a fresco on your kitchen walls. You can use stencils and add embellishments yourself, or if your budget allows, hire an artist to paint a fully custom scene. Frescoes work very well with rustic Italian kitchens, but the painting can just as easily be done as a mural for a more arts and crafts feel. Be sure to use a semigloss or gloss paint, or a glossy sealer. These finishes offer maximum washability.

Pressed Tin

Pressed tin panels come in a variety of designs and finishes, and add an impressive touch to a rustic or retro kitchen. From charming to elegant, any style can be accommodated. Originating in the mid-1800s as an affordable imitation of expensive Victorian plasterwork, pressed tin has enjoyed a comeback. If you have a limited budget, most home improvement stores carry a selection of thermoset plastic panels that are nearly identical to the real thing, at a fraction of the price. They are very easy to install, requiring only adhesive and a pair of tin snips, that you may decide to do your ceiling to match.

Get Creative

Use your own imagination to create a unique kitchen wall. Try painting the area with magnetic paint, and sticking magnetized spice jars on the wall. You will never want a traditional spice rack again. Think about painting the area with chalkboard paint --- you'll have plenty of room to write notes to family members, jot down reminders or just doodle while you wait for water to boil. If your kitchen has hardwood floors, installing the same wood planks on the backsplash can create a cohesive look. The kitchen wall around countertops is such a small, versatile area, that the only limit is your imagination.

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Ideas For Covering Up Old Ceiling Tiles

Ideas for Covering Up Old Ceiling Tiles

If your old ceiling tiles are looking a little worn or outdated, cover them up to give your ceiling a brand new look. Ceiling tiles are available in a wide variety of materials, but basic acoustic ceiling tiles became popular in the 1970s and 1980s because of how inexpensive they were. Acoustic ceiling tiles are thin and easily broken, so handle them with care as you work.

Paint It

If your ceiling tiles are looking a little dingy but the ceiling grid is still in good shape, paint your tiles to add color to your ceiling. A basic coat of primer followed by a coat of paint will cover most light to medium tile stains. Use a foam roller to paint each tile to keep from applying too much pressure to the tile as you work. Old ceiling tiles are often fragile and prone to breakage. If your ceiling grid is visible, be sure to apply a coat of paint to the grid to freshen it up.

Try Fabric

For a quick fix in an apartment or other space, bunch up material using strings and hooks across the ceiling to cover old tiles, or cover each tile individually with fabric. Use a simple starch and water mixture to coat the back of the fabric, and apply it to each tile. You can cover all tiles with the same fabric in a single bold color or simple pattern, or you can mix it up to create a patchwork quilt effect.

Add Wallpaper

If fabric isn't for you, add wallpaper to your ceiling tile squares, You can cover each ceiling tile individually, or if the tiles create a relatively smooth, flat surface, apply the wallpaper across the whole ceiling. Fill in any place where the ceiling tiles meet with a filler or caulk to create an even smoother surface to apply the wallpaper. Choose a simple colored cloth wallpaper or a more intricately patterned wallpaper to create a more unusual look.

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Trim Columns Out Of Mdf

Choose router bits with profiles that complement existing woodwork.

Medium Density Fibercore, commonly known as MDF, is a highly consistent and versatile wood composite used in the construction of furniture, moldings and other interior woodwork. Columns are typically trimmed with pedestals, or bases and capitals, also known as crown. To get a consistent finish, it is best make all pieces from the same material and MDF is excellent for routing and shaping, resulting in clean and crisp trim pieces.

Instructions

1. Measure the column front to back and side to side. Cut enough 3/4-inch thick MDF into strips 4 3/4-inches wide to wrap around all four sides of the column at the top and bottom. Use a table saw to make the cuts.

2. Install a 3/4-inch bearing bit in your choice of edge profile, such as a roman ogee, into your router. Set the depth so that the bearing will ride along the bottom edge of the 3/4-inch MDF.

3. Run the router along one long edge of the MDF strips. Clamp the strips to your work table with C clamps for stability. Work from right to left using both hands. Position the router on the MDF, with the bit just off the edge before starting the motor. Allow the router to come to full speed before beginning the cut and keep it moving at a steady pace.

4. Choose a cove molding bit with bearing and repeat the routing process with the remaining long edge of the MDF. Set the table saw to cut a 3/4-inch wide strip and cut the cove routed edge from the strip to use as a base shoe at the bottom of the column.

5. Miter four pieces of the 4-inch tall molding you routed to fit the four faces of the column. Cut a 45-degree miter on each short end, one right and one left, with the long edge of the miter on the face of the molding.

6. Nail these in place around the base of the column with at least three finish nails in each piece. Match the corners up for crisp, clean joints. Repeat the mitering and 4-inch-tall molding around the top of the column as well.

7. Cut four pieces of the 3/4-inch cove molding to fit around the 4-inch-tall molding at the base and four pieces for the top. Miter the ends as for the taller molding. Glue and nail these around the base of the column, flush with the floor and around the top, flush with the ceiling.

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Decorations To Make A Living Room With A Popcorn Ceiling Look Better

A bold area rug can draw the eye away from a popcorn ceiling.

Popcorn ceilings, which consist of a spray-on texture, can create a dated look in your living room. When you cannot alter the ceiling, the right decor options can help the ceiling become less of an eyesore. As you decorate, choose elements that will minimize the impact of the ceiling and create a beautiful, livable space.

Low, Soft Lighting

Ceiling lights, particularly the fluorescent variety, can highlight the unattractiveness of a popcorn ceiling by creating starker shadows. To make the texture of the ceiling recede visually, avoid putting direct lights high on the walls. Instead, choose soft, low lights that will cast a diffused glow around the room. You might use lamps on side tables, standing lamps, and spotlights that point down. Track lights positioned lower on the wall can also serve as lighting, particularly when you want to highlight a piece of art.

Floor Decor

When you have an ugly popcorn ceiling, make an effort to draw the eye down by focusing on the floor to make a design statement. Choose an area rug that will stand out or become the focal point of the room -- a bright color or a big pattern, for example. Center the rug in the middle of the room so that a significant percent of it is visible. You can also paint the floor a solid bright color or two colors with large stencils or install tiles in a bold pattern.

Monochromatic Design

A popcorn ceiling can often make a ceiling feel lower, particularly when your walls are not very tall to begin with. To minimize the impact, use a monochromatic design scheme to make the room feel more open and airy. Choose a single pale shade as the focus of the room, and decorate using different shades of the color. You might use whites and creams for a modern, clean look, or choose pale yellow shades for a sunny feeling. The variety of shades will create depth, and you can use pops of color to add visual interest.

Bold Design Elements

To keep the focus on the rest of your room, use bold design elements. Depending on the style of your home, choose elements that will attract attention. In a contemporary home, you might use modern bookshelves or unexpected furniture design. In a more traditional home, look for conversation pieces -- an antique trunk turned into a coffee table, for example, or an old sofa that has been reupholstered with a custom fabric design.

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Fix A Falling Plaster Ceiling

Fixing an old plaster ceiling that is falling down may require some extensive repairs, or may even require complete replacement of the old plaster with sheetrock. First, you have to assess the extent of the damage and determine whether there is a leak or moisture problem up in the attic.

Instructions

Fix a Falling Plaster Ceiling

1. Make sure there is no leak in the roof that is causing the plaster to come down. No matter what you need to do next, any necessary roof repairs must be done to ensure everything above the ceiling is dry. Sometimes past leaks or simply old age is making the plaster fail. Hire a roofer if you need to make any repairs to the roof.

2. Understand how the old lathe and plaster was originally done. Thin strips of wood called lathe were nailed in rows to the studs and ceiling joists. Over this was spread a layer of mortar, often with horse hair or even chicken feathers mixed in to give it strength and flexibility. One this was dry, the plasterer spread a thin layer of lime plaster. This wall system was much harder and more durable than modern gypsum sheetrock walls, but it was a lengthy and expensive process done by true craftsmen. Few people nowadays know do old-time plaster work. The overwhelming majority of modern walls and ceilings are done with sheetrock, joint compound and tape. If your home is of particular historical significance, it might be worthwhile to find someone who can do a true plaster repair. However, most repairs can be done quite well by patching in with sheetrock.

3. If the damage is confined to a small enough area. you may be able to simply patch that area in with sheetrock, tape and mud. Remove all the loose and damaged plaster from the ceiling. You will probably want to cover the area below with plastic sheeting or drop cloths. Cut a rectangular or square area so you can cut a piece of sheetrock to fit. You will expose the lathe, so try to remove the plaster back to a ceiling joist so you can attach the sheetrock securely to the joist instead of leaving it hanging only screwed to the lathe.

4. Use the utility knife to score the surface of the plaster along a straightedge as deep as you can. Then use the hammer and chisel or putty knife to carefully remove the old plaster in as straight a line as you can.

5. Buy the right thickness of sheetrock. The regular 1/2-inch sheetrock may be too thick and will be higher than the original surface. Sheetrock is available in 3/8-inch thickness, which may work better. Measure the height of the surrounding ceiling plaster as accurately as you can.

6. Cut the sheetrock to fit, and screw it into the joists. Space the screws about six inches apart along the joists for a secure patch.

7. Fill the mud pan with joint compound (commonly called mud). Using the six-inch drywall knife, lay a good bed of mud along the seams. Cut the tape to the correct length and embed it well into the mud by pressing it in firmly with the drywall knife. Patch over the screw dimples as well. Let this dry for 24 hours. It may shrink quite a bit.

8. Using the 10-inch drywall knife, go over the seams again with joint compound, this time feathering it out as smoothly as you can. Since this is a thinner coat, it will take between four and eight hours to dry. If you are very good, two coats may be sufficient and will sand smooth. If you are matching a texture over the repair, two coats will be plenty. Once dry you can sand it smooth and do the texture. If your ceiling is smooth, chances are you will need to do a third light "touch up" coat of mud to look really good.

hang a whole new ceiling over the old one.

9. Cover the floor and any remaining furniture with plastic sheeting or drop cloths. Remove the worst areas of loose plaster from the ceiling.

10. Use a stud finder to locate all the ceiling joists and mark them along the ceiling.

11. Attach wood furring strips right over the old plaster along the joists with 2-inch screws. Run the furring strips around the edge of the entire ceiling where the ceiling meets the wall. This gives you a framework to hang new sheetrock right over the bad ceiling.

12. Hang new sheetrock to the furring strips, following Steps 6 to 8 above.

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Black Finish Ceiling Lighting

Black finish ceiling lighting refers to lighting that features black detailing, whether dark metal or cast aluminum. Set the mood of a room in your home with black finish ceiling lighting, such as dramatic chandelier-inspired pieces for the living room or modern black finish pieces for a living room featuring black and white furniture and decor.

Outdoor Light Fixtures

Outdoor light fixtures that feature black detailing can be used as black finish ceiling lighting for front porches, back porches, screened-in porches and sun rooms, as well as mudrooms and foyers. Such fixtures often come in dome shapes with black trim, particularly if they are ENERGY STAR-approved, though square and octagonal shapes are also available. Outdoor light fixtures are often flush, meaning they attach directly to the ceiling without any hanging features, and come in various designs, ranging from simple to intricate.

Hanging "Primitive" Light Fixtures

"Primitive" black finish ceiling lighting includes lighting in candelabra/chandelier style that features bulbs in the shapes of candle flames and can include hanging black ornaments, such as black faux jewels, as well as clear faux diamond jewels. Intricate black metal designs may also be featured, though plainer versions are also available. Such fixtures work well in dining rooms, though they can also work in decorated front halls, entryways or basement recreation rooms.

"Modern" Light Fixtures

"Modern" black finish ceiling lighting can include a wide range of styles, including hanging and flush light fixtures. Options include fixtures featuring long silver wires with black halogen capsule bulbs on the end, resembling an upside-down shrub. Metal bent into swirls with light bulbs on the ends is another "modern" option, while hanging, black and white spiky balls are also available. Other modern black finish ceiling lighting options include black-painted wood or plastic shaped into an object, such as a human form, with light fixtures featured on the head and appendages.

Semi-Flush Fixtures

Semi-flush fixtures are types of fixtures that are not fully attached to the ceiling but do not hang from the ceiling as other types of light fixtures do. Rather, they are often dome-shaped in appearance, like outdoor flush fixtures, but the majority of the fixture is still close to the ceiling, unlike most hanging fixtures. Triangular shapes are also available, with black finish ranging from the simple and basic to the intricate, such as metal pieces shaped into curls and other designs.

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Ideas And Photos For The Design Of A Family Room & Adjoining Kitchen

A combined room consists of two rooms turned into one large space.

To make rooms appear larger and create more space in a home, many designers choose to create combination family rooms and kitchens. Also known as a great room or an open floor plan, this design knocks down the wall traditionally found between the kitchen and family room. This gives the space an open feel that's perfect for entertaining or simply spending time with family. Design ideas for a combination room of this type give you ways to combine the decors of the two rooms.

Divide the Space

A small island creates two clear spaces in a large room.

Removing the wall that separates the family room and kitchen creates one large and open space. The problem is that it doesn't show you a clear definition between where each room ends and the next room starts. To create two distinct rooms without affecting the open floor plan, you need to find a way to divide the space. Installing a small piece of furniture, such as a kitchen island or bar, in between the two rooms creates a division that leaves the space open. You also have the added advantage of gaining more entertaining and dining space. Add a few bar stools or chairs around the island for dining purposes or to provide additional seating during a party.

Use Storage Furniture

An ottoman with storage inside gives you extra storage space.

When you open the space between the two rooms, you lose valuable storage space. The wall previously there probably contained space for cabinets in the kitchen and bookshelves or other storage in the family room. Using furniture that doubles as storage allows you to organize things in the great room, as well as provides seating. Look for ottomans and benches that have lift-off tops and can hold miscellaneous items. Likewise, install a kitchen island that has cabinets underneath that are large enough to store pots, pans, dishes, cleaning supplies and other necessary kitchen tools.

Mix Things Up

A similar color scheme makes disparately purposed rooms fit together.

Turn the family room and kitchen space into a room that combines the two rooms into one mixed-up space. Instead of separating the rooms, mix and match the components for each one. Add cabinets along one wall to hold kitchen supplies as well as your television and other electronics. Place the dining room table in the center of the room. Use one color scheme that flows through both spaces to tie everything together. Display accessories in a similar color palette, including artwork on the walls and ceramics arranged in small groups. Turn the space into one large room that mixes elements from both spaces.

Tags: family room, between rooms, both spaces, color scheme, family room kitchen, floor plan, great room

Bathroom Design Ideas On A Budget

A bathroom adds a considerable amount of value to your home. Designing your bathroom doesn't have to leave you broke. There are plenty of fresh and tasteful updates you can do to your bathroom to create a relaxing oasis on a budget.

Curved Shower Rod

A curved shower rod costs about $60 to $100 at a department or discount store. These shower rods will give a spa feel to your home. You can also purchase a double curved shower rod. This will allow you to have a liner on one rod and a shower curtain on another rod. The nice thing about arched shower curtain rods is that they keep the shower curtain from closing in on you while you are taking a shower. Many upscale hotels and spas feature curved shower rods in their bathrooms. This is an inexpensive update you can make to your bathroom that will leave you feeling like you are in your own private spa.

Paint an Accent Wall

Painting an accent wall in your bathroom is an easy way to update tired bathroom walls. Choose an intense color that is complimentary to your shower curtain to really pull your bathroom's look together. Add a small framed mirror or framed artwork to the accent wall to draw attention to it. Make sure the other walls in your bathroom are a neutral color that compliments the accent wall. You don't want too much bold coloring in your bathroom, as that could potentially overwhelm a small space and make it feel a lot smaller than it is.

Vinyl Tiles

Vinyl tiles are an inexpensive flooring solution that is perfect for a budget bathroom renovation. Many types of vinyl tiles look like expensive marble and ceramic tiles. Installing vinyl tiles is a lot simpler than installing other types of tile as no grout and compound is needed.

Choosing a peel and stick option makes installation even easier. First, prepare your floors by washing them and allowing them to completely dry. Then, lay out your tiles. Your floor layout won't be perfect, so it will be necessary to cut certain pieces of tile to fit. Cut the tile that is in areas that aren't as noticeable such as behind the toilet and on the edge of cabinets.

Once you are satisfied with the layout and have all tiles cut that need to be cut, you can proceed and peel the backing off one tile at a time and apply the tiles to your floors. Make sure to keep your lines straight and don't allow gaps between tiles.

Tags: your bathroom, shower curtain, accent wall, curved shower, bathroom that, color that, Make sure

Diy Textured Ceiling

You can texture a ceiling in different ways simply by changing a few variables of the same three-phase formula. One variable is the preparation of your texture. You can add water to a bag of popcorn ceiling mix, add sand to a latex paint base, which you can also buy premixed, or you can thin down a batch of joint compound which you then shoot through a texture spray gun.

Types of Ceiling Texture

There are two main types of textured ceilings---both with distinct differences in application, as well in the overall out come---depending on your choice of design. With popcorn ceilings as well as sand finished ceilings, the texture is prepared before the application process and is complete once the texture is applied. However, in a knock-down system you shoot a coat of thinned-down joint compound through a texture gun. Home improvement and paint stores sell a variety of rollers and sponges that allow you to apply your texture in many different patterns and designs.

Preparation for Ceiling Texture

Preparing your area for texture is an important step in texturing a ceiling. You will need to prepare and protect both the surface that is to be textured and the surrounding area, such as walls, floor and furniture. Apply a "skim" or light coat of joint compound to the ceiling and sand out imperfections before you start to apply the texture. Tape off the edge of the ceiling and cover the walls from the top down, for at least 3 or 4 feet. If possible, cover the whole wall with a light plastic drop cloth, because texturing is extremely messy. This will help with clean up as well as by allowing you to fold the drop cloths in on themselves to avoid spills.

Application of Texture

The application of the texture will greatly depend on the style of texture you choose. If you choose the popcorn finish or the sand finish, you can roll it on or spray it on it on with a texture gun. If you decide to use rollers and faux sponges, roll on the texture or apply it carefully by hand in the desired pattern. If you choose the traditional knock-down style, you'll need to use a texture gun and then knock it down. The knocking down process is done with a cutting board---a large, thin piece of plastic with a handle on it which you can pick up at your local paint supplier. Pull the cutting board lightly across the texture in long, smooth strokes in one direction only.

Tags: joint compound, ceiling sand, Ceiling Texture, through texture, your texture

Flush Mount A Ceiling Light

Flush mounting a ceiling light can be easy.

Lighting comes in all shapes, sizes, colors and mounting options. Flush mount ceiling lights can be the most versatile of light fixtures as they can be installed in practically any location. There are no height requirements to hang a flush mount ceiling light; they are almost perfect for low ceiling installations. Flush mount ceiling lights are most common in hallways and bedrooms. Knowing flush mount a ceiling light is a basic skill that you can build your lighting installation knowledge on.

Instructions

1. Turn off the electricity to the area where you are installing your ceiling light by turning off the breaker at the main electrical panel.

2. Assemble your ceiling light according to the manufacturer's directions.

3. Find the black and white power supply wires in the electrical ceiling box. The power supply wires consist of a black or hot wire that provides the electricity to the light and the white or neutral wire that completes the electrical circuit.

4. Wire the ceiling light to the power supply wires. Connect the black wire from the ceiling light to the black power supply wire by twisting an orange wire nut onto the two wires, connecting them together. Connect the white wire from the ceiling light to the white power supply wire the same way you connected the two black wires together.

5. Attach the ceiling light to the electrical ceiling box. The base of your ceiling light will attach directly to the ceiling box with screws that were provided with your light. Thread the screws through the pre-drilled holes on the base of the ceiling light and screw them into the ceiling box. This will mount your ceiling light flush to the ceiling.

6. Install the light bulb and the shade onto your ceiling light. Follow the manufacturer's directions for installing the shade onto the ceiling light base.

7. Turn on the electricity to the area where you installed your ceiling light by turning on the breaker at the main electrical panel.

Tags: ceiling light, ceiling light, your ceiling, your ceiling light, power supply

Should I Use Flat Or Semigloss For A Kitchen Ceiling

Hard-working kitchens are often messy.

The kitchen is the hardest working room in a house, even the ceiling gets a workout. Cooking releases steam and grease which attach to nearby surfaces including kitchen walls and ceilings. If the walls of the kitchen are painted with a flat paint then they are not going to clean well. Flat paint reduces visible defects in walls or ceilings but it doesn't create a surface that can be easily washed. Often if you wash a flat wall you will remove some paint. For this reason a paint with more of a finish is a better choice.

Flat Paint

Flat paint works well on imperfect walls that won't need regular cleaning.

Flat paint has no sheen or finish. This makes flat paint particularly good for walls that are less than perfect. Light tends to bounce off irregularities in wall surfaces so paints with a sheen pick up the problem areas and make them more visible. Most rooms should be painted with flat or matte paint that has minimal sheen. This will produce the best appearance for walls that don't need to be cleaned regularly.

Eggshell, Pearl or Satin

Painting with eggshell in the kitchen will allow you to clean the paint occasionally.

Eggshell, pearl and satin paints have progressively more sheen than flat and matte paints. Eggshell will require a primer when applied over a drywall patch and you should keep a wet edge when rolling the paint. Eggshell, pearl or satin can be used in the kitchen within limitations. These paints have some sheen and some ability to be washed. These may be the best choice for imperfect kitchen walls. They will not be as durable a semi-gloss and glossy paints.

Semi-Gloss Paint

Semi-gloss paint may require two coats for a good finish.

Gloss is a word used to describe the level of shine and the amount of finish that a paint has once it dries. Semi-gloss paint has a stronger finish than satin and it will have a soft shine. The surface of the paint after it has dried is excellent for removing grease, fingerprints and general grime. In homes with very active kitchens that have children and animals, semi-gloss is an excellent wipable surface that will make keeping the kitchen clean much easier.

Glossy Paint

Cleaning kitchen surfaces is a frequent necessity in busy homes.

Glossy paint is shiny. Glossy paint wipes off easily and retains its shine over time, particularly if the paint is an oil-based paint. It is sometimes hard to get glossy paint to look good as the shine will pick up all of the imperfections in a wall surface. Generally you may want to use glossy paint on your trim and a semi-gloss on the walls. This allows both surfaces to look good and clean up easily.

Tags: walls that, Eggshell pearl, Eggshell pearl satin, flat matte, Glossy paint, kitchen walls, look good

Cut Holes In Ceilings With Insulation Above

There are countless reasons you may need to cut into a ceiling.

If your home was built properly, you likely have insulation between the ceiling and the floor located above the ceiling. This insulation helps keep the house warm in the winter and cool in the summer. Having insulation above the ceiling does not make it more difficult to cut an access hole for installing light fixtures or for gaining access to electrical lines or plumbing.

Instructions

1. Locate the breaker that controls the section of the house where you plan to complete the work. Turn the breaker off. Doing this will protect you in the event you cut into an electrical wire buried in the ceiling.

2. Scribe the outline of the access hole you plan to cut onto the ceiling with a pencil. If you plan to install a junction box or electrical box, place the box against the ceiling and trace around that.

3. Shove the tip of a keyhole saw straight into the ceiling on the line you scribed.

4. Saw through the drywall. Press the saw into the ceiling as shallowly as possible to avoid disturbing electrical lines or pulling out excess insulation.

Tags: into ceiling, above ceiling, access hole, electrical lines

Cut Foam Molding

Foam molding is manufactured for crown molding, baseboard molding and for other decorative projects. Cutting foam molding is just as difficult as cutting wood or MDF molding: Getting the angles right is usually the hardest part. You also have to orient the cut on the foam molding in the correct manner or things will not line up. If you have never cut molding, or any other kind of finishing product, make a few practice cuts before you make any cuts in the molding. This will help you understand cut placement and the orientation of the molding with the saw blade. There are three basic cuts you will have to make: a scarf joint, an outside 90-degree angle, and an inside cope joint.

Instructions

Scarf joint

1. Mark the molding where the cut has to be made.

2. Place the first piece of foam molding tight against the miter saw fence. Rotate the saw blade 45 degrees to the right.

3. Cut the molding at the mark.

4. Mark the second piece of molding where the cut has to be made.

5. Flip it upside down and tight against the miter saw fence. Make the cut at the mark.

6. Test the fit to be sure it is tight.

Outside 90-degree cut

7. Mark the molding where the cut needs to be made. Rotate the miter saw blade so it is 45 degrees to the right.

8. Place the molding tightly against the miter saw fence. Line the blade up with the mark on the molding.

9. Cut the molding on the mark. Set the first piece of molding aside.

10. Mark the second piece of molding where the cut has to be made. Rotate the miter saw blade 90 degrees to the left.

11. Place the molding tightly against the miter saw fence. Line the saw blade up with the mark. Make the cut and test-fit the two pieces to be sure the joint is tight.

Inside coped cut

12. Square-cut the first piece of molding till it sits right in the corner.

13. Cut the second piece of molding at a 45-degree angle. Highlight the leading edge profile of the molding with a pencil.

14. Hold the molding firmly and use a coping saw to cut along the profile of the molding.

15. Sand the joint with 100-grit sandpaper if needed to create a tight fit.

Tags: piece molding, against miter, against miter fence, miter fence, molding where, blade degrees, first piece

Refinish Crown Molding

Crown molding is decorative trim installed on a wall directly beneath the ceiling line. Though not typically exposed to moisture or friction, this type of molding can benefit from a protective finish. The right stain and sealer can make crown molding pop and prolong its life. After years of natural wear, even the most expensive finishes can fade. Rejuvenate the appearance of your crown molding by stripping the existing finish and applying fresh coatings. Use the correct procedures or you could destroy the trim.

Instructions

1. Use a sturdy stepladder to reach your crown molding.

2. Strip the glossy sealer by sanding the molding, using a power sander stocked with 80-grit sandpaper. Move the power sander toward the crown molding wood grain to prevent damage; don't stop until the molding looks dull.

3. Dust the molding, using a broom.

4. Smooth the crown molding by sanding it with 150-grit sandpaper. Wipe the molding trim, using tack cloths.

5. Apply painter's tape to the portion of the ceiling that meets the crown molding. Hang plastic drop cloths over the wall directly beneath the molding, using painter's tape. Cover the floor with two layers of thick canvas drop cloths.

6. Brush gel oil stain onto the crown molding, using a natural brush. Move the brush toward the wood grain. Wipe the gel from the molding, using clean shop rags. Let the molding dry for three hours.

7. Wash the paintbrush, using fresh, clean mineral spirits.

8. Brush polyurethane onto the crown molding, using the natural brush. Move the brush toward the wood grain. Let the molding dry for three hours.

Tags: molding using, crown molding, crown molding, wood grain, your crown molding, brush Move, brush Move brush

Clean A Lava Lamp Spill On Wood

Lava lamps are cool to look at, but make a mess if broken.

First introduced in the 1960s, lava lamps are kind of an interactive lighting source. They contain an immiscible mixture that constantly rises and falls when the lamp is turned on. Part of the mixture is artificially colored, which creates a greater contrast between the two liquids. The result is a constantly moving blob of color, alternately floating and sinking within a clear liquid. Unfortunately, the containers are made of glass and break easily if the lamp gets knocked over.

Instructions

1. Determine whether the lamp was turned on when it broke. If the lamp was running, the wax it contains will most likely be predominantly liquid. If the lamp was off, the wax will be in a more solid state.

2. Remove the broken glass first, wearing rubber gloves. Pick up the large pieces of broken glass and dispose of them in the trash.

3. Pick up any chunks of solidified wax, while wearing the rubber gloves, if the lamp was not running when it broke. Toss the wax into the trash.

4. Wipe up the spilled liquid from the lava lamp, using disposable paper towels. Continue to wear the rubber gloves, to protect your hands from any small pieces of glass remaining in the spill area. If the lamp was running when it broke, there will be a larger volume of liquid, because some of the wax will have melted from the heat of the light bulb. Dispose of the soiled paper towels in the trash.

5. Soften any wax that has hardened onto the wood floor using a hairdryer. Set the dryer at a medium heat level and direct the air over the hardened wax. As the wax softens, scrape it off with a plastic scraper, then wipe the area with a soft cloth or paper towel.

6. Clean your wood floors with your usual detergent or with a mild solution of water and vinegar. A mixture of 1/4 to 1/2 cup of vinegar in 1 gallon of warm water is ideal. Allow the floor to dry naturally after washing it.

Tags: lamp running, rubber gloves, when broke, broken glass, lamp running when, lamp turned

Change A Popcorn Ceiling To Flat Or Textured

Give your home a modern look by removing the outdated popcorn ceiling texture.

Popcorn ceilings were popular in the 1960s and '70s. They are a thick acoustical ceiling texture that often contain asbestos. Asbestos is dangerous when breathed in. Take a sample of the ceiling to a local EPA testing lab before beginning removal. If your sample comes back positive for asbestos, hire a professional to do the removal. Removal of popcorn ceilings is a dirty and time-consuming project. Covering your walls and furniture is necessary to prevent them from being damaged

Instructions

1. Turn off power to room from the main breaker box. Hold a circuit tester against each electrical outlet to make sure they are off. Spread a sheet of plastic over the floor. Cut rectangles of plastic with scissors and tape them over electrical outlets and light switches. Lift the edges of the floor plastic up the wall about 12 to 18 inches and tape it in place with painter's tape.

2. Tape off the walls about 1/4 inch lower than the ceiling with painter's tape. Lift sheets of plastic up to cover the walls. Hold the plastic sheets' top edges against the painter's tape. Place another strip of painter's tape over the top edges to hold the plastic sheets in place. Remove any light fixtures in the ceiling and stuff the hole with balled-up newspaper. Roll rosin paper across the floor.

3. Spray water onto a section of the ceiling with a garden sprayer. Use a 5-inch mudding knife to scrap the wet popcorn ceiling texture off the ceiling. Continue wetting sections and scraping them off until the entire ceiling is clear of the popcorn texture. Roll the rosin paper up and throw it away. Allow the ceiling to dry.

4. Pour primer into a paint tray. Use a paint roller to apply the primer to the ceiling. Allow the primer to completely dry. Stop here if you want a flat ceiling.

5. Pour dry texture into a bucket. Add water to the texture, following the manufacturer's directions. Stir the mixture using a power mixer. Wait 15 minutes and stir the mixture with the power mixer again.

6. Pour the mixture into a power texture sprayer's bucket. Lift the sprayer up to the ceiling and pull the trigger to dispense the texture. Spray the entire ceiling evenly as you slowly walk back and forth across the room. Allow the texture to dry according to the manufacturer's directions.

7. Remove the plastic covering the walls and floors. Pull the plastic rectangles off the electrical outlets and light switches. Remove the newspaper from the ceiling light fixtures and reinstall the fixtures. Restore electrical power to the room.

Tags: painter tape, ceiling texture, ceiling Pour, ceiling with, electrical outlets, electrical outlets light, entire ceiling

Hang A Light From A Suspended Ceiling Tile

Suspended ceilings are typically composed of a metal framework that supports lightweight panels. They are convenient because the panels can hide wiring and ductwork between the suspended ceiling and the actual ceiling of the space. One disadvantage is that the panels are not designed to support any significant weight. Attaching a light directly to the panel of a suspended ceiling will likely cause the panel to break, but you can still hang a light with the proper materials.

Instructions

1. Position and climb a ladder to reach the ceiling without straining. Remove the tile the light will hang from so you have access to the actual ceiling above it.

2. Drill two holes into a stud or support above the ceiling panel that are equal in length to the length of the light. Screw in two hooks or fasteners into the holes until tight.

3. Measure the distance between where the hooks are and where you want the actual light to be with a tape measure. Use wire cutters to cut two wires of that length. Tie or wrap one to each hook and then replace the ceiling tile with the wires fitting down between the tile and the metal frame on both sides.

4. Secure the wires to your lighting fixture. The method depends on the type of light you are hanging, but the wire can tie or wrap around the base or be looped through a chain to hold the light in place. This way, the light is still hanging from the tile without the tile actually supporting its weight.

Tags: actual ceiling, light with, suspended ceiling

Cut Crown Molding On Cabinets

Cut Crown Molding on Cabinets

Crown molding is a decorative trim that is used to cover up the top edge of the upper cabinet. The crown molding also adds architectural detailing to the kitchen cabinets. Many people feel that crown molding is difficult to install because of the compound miter cuts required to get a tight fitting joint. The do-it-yourself handyman can install crown molding on kitchen cabinets fairly easily if he knows a few tricks.

Instructions

1. Start at the left side of the cabinets and measure the length of straight cabinet to the first corner. which will be the inside dimension of the bottom of the crown molding. Add 1/8 inch to all dimensions. After you rough cut the piece to length, this will allow you to hold the piece of crown molding in place and mark the exact length on it with a pencil for a perfect fit.

2. Set the miter saw to 45 degrees, and lock it in place, which is the angle needed to cut most all crown for upper cabinets. If you have a special corner cabinet, you may have a few additional 22 1/2-degree miter cuts.

3. Place a section of the crown molding on the miter saw. Set the top side of the crown molding flat against the table of the miter saw. Set the bottom side of the molding against the fence of the miter saw. Crown molding is cut upside down when you use a miter saw to cut it.

4. Connect the miter saw stops to the saw. Turn the knob to adjust the fence in or out to clamp the crown molding in place. Miter saw stops are clamp that hold the crown molding in position during the cut.

5. Cut the crown molding slowly to reduce the chance of the wood splintering. This will be the rough cut of the molding to allow you to position it for the final cut.

6. Hold the crown molding up to the cabinet exactly as you will install it, and mark the bottom edge for a perfect fitting joint.

7. Rotate the miter saw to the opposite 45-degree mark, and cut the one end of the next piece of crown molding. Repeat step 6 for this section of crown molding and steps 6 to 8 for the remaining sections of crown molding.

Tags: crown molding, crown molding, crown molding, Crown Molding Cabinets, crown molding place, fitting joint, kitchen cabinets

Create Backing For Crown Molding

Molding backing adds an extra anchor for your crown molding project. Not all crown molding is the same, though, and sometimes it takes a special fit of molding backing to accommodate the crown molding you use. One of the most effective ways to ensure the proper fit is to make your own crown molding backing. The task does require basic woodworking skills and caution, so take your time to ensure you achieve the proper fit while you safely complete the task.

Instructions

1. Choose a corner on a 1-inch-thick cube of wood. On one side of the corner, write "ceiling," and write "wall" on the other side.

2. Turn a piece of the molding on its side and set it on the cube of wood. Turn the molding diagonally so one corner of the trim meets with the side of the wood that reads "ceiling" and the other corner meets with the side of wood that reads "wall."

3. Draw a diagonal line along the backside of the molding on the wood cube. Use the back of the molding as a straightedge. This leaves a diagonal line across one corner of the wood cube.

4. Place the cube of wood on a table edge with the marked corner hanging off. Clamp the piece of wood to the table tight enough to prevent it from moving. Cut off the corner of the wood along the pencil line, creating a triangle of wood.

5. Loosen the bevel screw on your electric saw (after you unplug it), and set your triangle of wood against the blade on the side with the most shoe space. (The "shoe" is the platform around the blade.) The side of the wood that reads "ceiling" should touch the shoe. Rotate the triangle of wood so the newly cut side faces the side of the saw blade.

6. Tilt the saw blade so the side of it rests flush with the angled part of the wood triangle. Tighten the bevel screw on the saw to secure the desired angle.

7. Lay the triangle against the end of a 2-by-4 that mirrors the length of the stretch of molding you will use with the backing. Match the edge of the 2-by-4 that reads "wall" with the edge of the 2-by-4. Draw a pencil line along the newly cut edge of the wood on the end of the 2-by-4.

8. Set the wood against the blade of the saw so the blade lines up with the pencil line. Plug in the saw and start the blade. Feed the 2-by-4 into the blade until it creates a triangular strip of wood that works as your molding backing.

Tags: crown molding, that reads, wood that, blade side, cube wood, pencil line, side wood

Cut Crown Molding In Tin

Tin ceiling tiles, which are tin squares with designs pressed into them, provide a touch of formal elegance to any room. The ceiling tiles are usually finished off by installing tin molding around the edges. Some people even install tin molding in rooms without a tin ceiling. Since tin tiles and molding are relatively thin, cutting them to fit your walls is a quick process. However, it does require proper measurements and specialized cutting tools.

Instructions

1. Lay the section of tin molding on a flat surface and place a tape measure on it to determine the location where it needs to be cut to fit the wall.

2. Draw a line along the tape measure using a pencil to designate the cut line.

3. Pick up a pair of tin snips, which look like bolt cutters. Open the blades and insert the tin molding into the tin snips lining up the pencil line with the blades of the snips.

4. Press the handles of the tin snips together to cut through the tin molding, just as if you were using scissors. Continue the cutting process until you have cut all the way through the tin molding.

Tags: ceiling tiles, tape measure, through molding

Circulate Heat From A Wood Stove

Circulating the heat produced from wood stoves is sometimes a challenge. To avoid cold spots in some areas and extreme heat in others, it's necessary to move the air around. Use the following tips to learn better circulate the head from a wood stove.

Styles Of Drop Ceilings

Drop ceilings come in a wide variety of styles and purposes to fit your decor.

If industrial-looking asbestos panels with plastic fluorescent lights dotting the grid come to mind when you think of a drop ceiling, you share a common view of the old drab styles. New styles include everything from shaped PVC or metal panels to faux wood systems. A whole new range of drop ceilings creates a new look when you need to work with this type of product.

Gypsum and Plaster

New styles of grid-type tiles are made of lightweight layered gypsum or plaster that looks and acts much the same as drywall. These tiles can be painted to match the room or used, as is, without finishing. These work well in more formal spaces, such as a dining room or historic renovations where a modern drop ceiling would look out of place.

Decorative Metal and PVC

Molded and shaped tiles are a lesson taken from the history of decorating in a whole new way. Pressed tin ceilings were a decorative addition in many Victorian-era homes and are distinctive panel types. In a range of styles, from embossed designs to those that recreate the look of formal molding, these tiles can be used to cover an old ceiling, either a suspension type or glued onto the existing surface. These panels can be painted or purchased pre-finished.

Wood

Attractive, modern and eco-friendly, wood drop ceiling tiles are created from a high-recycled wood content and are available in large and small panels. Many of the wood veneer designs are made to hide the suspension system and give the room a warm, modern look. Like most drop ceiling systems the wood also offers fire resistance and insulating properties.

Acoustic

Home theater systems have created a trend for rooms designed just like a home movie theater. Acoustic drop ceilings can insulate the room so noise doesn't disturb the rest of the home while helping the sound system create a theater quality experience. Suspended like typical drop ceiling systems, the secret is in the type of materials the tile is made of, along with an additional layer of insulation to deflect sound.

Tags: drop ceiling, ceiling systems, drop ceiling systems, drop ceilings

Tips On Painting Drop Ceilings

Drop ceilings, also known as suspended ceilings, often get a bad rap for being unattractive and utilitarian. As a result, many homeowners try to spruce up their drop ceiling by painting it. However, because drop ceilings are composed of individual tiles, the job can be difficult and time-consuming. If you keep some basic tips in mind, though, you should wind up with a finished product that adds to the look of your room.

Paint the Ceiling in Place

In most cases, it is easiest to paint a drop ceiling after it has been installed. Painting the ceiling once it is in place allows you to cover the tiles and the grid at the same time. Rollers are typically preferred for painting a drop ceiling that is already installed. Two coats should be applied, with a 24-hour drying period between the coats.

Use Spray for Loose Tiles

In some drop ceilings, the tiles are too loose to be painted with a roller. The pressure needed to cover the tiles with this type of application may knock them loose and cause a mess. If you still want to paint your drop ceiling while it is in place, spray paint works well. Spraying the ceiling allows you to paint both the tiles and the gridwork without worrying about knocking the tiles loose.

Paint Tiles Before Installing for a Contrast with the Grid

Some homeowners do not want the tiles in their drop ceiling and gridwork to be the same color. They may prefer the contrasting look of white or metal gridwork with darker tiles. If you prefer this look for your drop ceiling, paint the tiles before you install them or pull them down to paint them separately. Lay the tiles on a dropcloth and you can easily use a roller to paint them quickly. This method also allows you to paint the tile varying colors, so you can create different patterns, such as a checkerboard.

Spot Paint Stains

The tiles in a drop ceiling may develop stains over time, including water marks from leaks. Instead of repainting the entire ceiling, pull out the damaged tiles and paint over the stains. If you have left your drop ceiling basic white, try to match the color as closely as you can. Match the finish as well. Most drop ceiling tiles have a flat finish, so flat latex paint is usually your best option. For tiles that have a slight sheen, a shellac primer may serve as both primer and finish for your stained tiles.

Tags: drop ceiling, your drop, your drop ceiling, allows paint, cover tiles, drop ceilings

Install A Basement Ceiling

Basement ceiling tile.

Ceiling tiles are the No. 1 choice for finishing a basement ceiling. They are relatively easy to install and allow access to the house mechanical systems if maintenance or repair is required. With a wide variety of styles available, there is a ceiling tile installation for every home. This installation procedure includes balancing the tiles along the walls, to create a professional look and avoid having tiles just a few inches wide.

Instructions

Layout and Preparation

1. Determine installation direction. The main beams will run perpendicular to the ceiling joists. If the ceiling tiles are 2 by 4 feet, decide which way they will run. The grid can be installed to orient the tiles in either direction.

2. Determine the tile sizes along the walls. Measure the length and width of the room. For each measurement, divide it by the length or width of the tiles in inches, either 24 or 48. Calculate the remaining length or width not filled by whole uncut tiles. Divide by 2. This is the length or width of the tiles next to those walls. Repeat for the calculation for the length or width of the tiles in the other direction. See the Tile Size illustrations for clarity.

3. Determine the starting position for the first main grid tee. The tile width or length for the walls perpendicular to the joists is the position of the first Main Tee, measured off one wall. Mark each end and snap a chalk line across the joists.

4. Determine the next main tee position. Mark the joists 4 feet from the first position and snap a chalk line. Continue, measuring 4 feet over for each main tee. When you reach the opposite wall, the distance from the wall to main tee should be the very close to that at the first wall. Minor differences of an inch or so won't be noticed.

5. Install the ceiling grid screw eyes. Begin with the first joist at either end and install a screw eye in every other joist at the chalk line. Install a screw eye in the last joist as well. Use the drill with the screw eye bit and drive the screw eye straight in the full length of the threads. In engineered I-joists, predrill with an appropriate drill bit two sizes smaller than the screw eyes.

Cutting and Hanging the Main Tees

6. Hang the rotating laser at the level you want the ceiling to be. Turn it on, let it level and adjust the height until the laser draws a line around the room at the correct height, typically 4 to 6 inches below the joists.

7. With the laser operating, hold a tape measure vertical with the end against a joist. The laser will mark the distance on the tape measure. Keep this measurement for installing the main tees.

8. Install the wall angle around the room. Start in one corner and screw through the wall angle into the studs. Put one screw into each stud as you go along. At corners, you can miter cut the bottom part of the angles to meet or simply butt one into the corner and install the second so it meets the first.

9. Thread a wire grid hanger through each screw eye and twist the end around the wire nine or 10 times. Do not twist the wire tight to the screw eye but leave a small loop so the hanger can swing freely.

10. Cut the main tees. The main tees have slots for the tabs on the cross tees and end tabs for joining themselves together. Using the calculation for the tile width on the walls perpendicular to the joists, measure a main tee from the first tab slot out towards the end tab and mark it. Cut the main tee at this mark with the shears.

11. Hang the main tees. Set the cut end of the main tee on the wall angle under the first chalk line. Choose the wire hanger nearest the uncut end of the main tee and thread it through a hole or slot directly beneath the screw eye. Raise the main tee until the laser mark just disappears from the main tee. Bend the hanger up and twist once or twice around itself to temporarily hold it in place.

12. Hang a second main tee from hangers along the chalk line and then join the two main tees together by inserting the tabs on each into the opposing slots on each. Each main tee will have a tab and a slot. The tab on one slides past the tab on the other and into the slot. They will lock together with a click.

13. At wall opposite the one you started at, cut the last main tee to fit. Although rarely not the case, verify before cutting that you'll be able to insert a cross tee at the correct distance from the wall.

14. Continue installing main tees until all are installed. Using the measurement taken with the tape and laser earlier, verify the main tees are at the correct height. As a final check, use the 4-foot level held to the bottom of the tees. Tighten the hangers as you go along, wrapping them 10 to 12 times around themselves and trimming long ends off.

Installing the Cross Tees

15. Measure out from the beginning wall the tile width calculated. Insert a the tab on a 4-foot cross tee into the tab slot on the first main tee and the main tee next to it.

16. Continue down the row, adding cross tees the length or width of the tiles you are using. For 2x2 tiles, this will be every 2 feet. For 2x4 tiles, this will be every 2 or 4 feet, depending on which way you decided to run the tiles.

17.Add cross tees between all the main beams until the interior grid is filled.

18. Measure and cut cross tees to fit around the edges of the grid. Fill in the exterior of the grid.

19. For 2x2 tiles only: Install 2-foot cross ties between the 4-foot cross ties using the center slots on the 4- foot tees. This will produce an interior 2x2 grid.

20. For 2x4 tiles installed perpendicular to joists only: Install a second set of 4-foot cross tees between the existing cross tees using the center tab slots on the already installed tees. This will produce an interior 2x4 grid.

Installing Tiles

21. Install any lay-in fluorescent lighting now. Add four screw eyes for each light and use heavy duty wire hangers. Can lights should also be wired now but don't clip them to the grid yet.

22. Start at the beginning side of the interior grid and put in a row perpendicular to the joists. Add a row along the beginning wall, also on the interior grid.

23. Cut tiles to fit the exterior grid along the first row of tiles installed. Use a square to measure the tiles and to make straight cuts. You want tight-fitting tiles that will help keep the grid square. Lay the tiles on a cutting surface or the floor and score the tile face deeply with the utility knife. Then snap it cleanly and install the tile.

24. Cut and install the exterior row parallel to the joists and the second row of tiles you installed. Again, tight-fitting tiles with straight cuts are best as they will keep the grid square.

25. Install the remaining interior tiles into the grid in rows parallel to the first row installed. Install any can lighting as you go along, using a hole saw sized to the can lights. Clip the lights into the grid as you go.

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At the end of each row, cut and install the final tile for the row. Keep the cuts straight and even for professional-quality installation.

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Use the 4-foot level to make any final adjustments to the grid height if an area looks uneven. The grid and tiles are heavy, and some stretching and settling is to be expected.

Tags: main tees, length width, chalk line, interior grid, cross tees

Log Home Lighting Ideas

Modern style lamps find a place in some log home styles.

Log homes come in a number of different styles and feature different types of decor and light fixtures, depending upon where they're located in the U.S. While these sturdy, comfortable homes are usually decorated in rustic style, (including the lighting), with the preponderance of luxury cabin retreats, seeing lighting that reflects this trend isn't unusual.

Skylights

Log homes are especially conducive to skylights because one of the reasons people live in them is to be near nature and the beauty of the outdoors. A skylight lets in the sunlight but also offers you a peek at the towering trees above your cabin's roof. A number of options exist for skylights. You can go with a single light panel on one side of the roof, or you can install a recessed skylight alcove in your ceiling. In the latter type skylight, a place is "carved" out of the ceiling and recessed. A number of skylights are installed allowing you to catch the light as it changes positions throughout the day.

Decorative Lamps

No rule exists that says that lighting for a log home must be rustic. You have the option of choosing light fixtures and lamps from many decorative eras. Some possible lighting ideas include Tiffany-style lamps, Victorian, Art Nouveau or Deco, wall-mounted lamps, Asian lanterns or handcrafted antique lamps. Furniture and lighting styles changed in the history of cabins. These types of lights will work in the log home that sports a more modern design. If you opt for this style of lighting in your log home, pull the look in your living spaces together by featuring decorating styles that match the lighting styles.

Track Lights

Many log homes are really luxury lodges in disguise; these opulent getaways feature decorating styles that are high end and modern. If your log home falls into this category, go with modern light fixtures like track lighting. Because many cabin ceilings are vaulted, this type of lighting looks exceptionally dramatic. You can position the lights in a number of different ways. Adding a dimmer switch for the lights will offer you further options.

Sconces

Wall sconces come in a variety of styles, which include electronic as well as candle sconces. These types of lights look good above a fireplace mantel, and while they do not provide a lot of light unless they're electric, they bring a great deal of ambiance to the room. Candle sconces allow you to choose colored candles that match the rest of the decor in your log home. Choosing candles of red, orange, yellow, brown and green reflect the colors prevalent in the outdoors around you.

Tags: light fixtures, your home, decorating styles, decorating styles that, lighting styles, lights will, number different

Attach Crown Molding Without Studs

Crown molding sometimes is found along the top of a wall in a kitchen or dining room. It attaches to the top of the wall and the ceiling to add a decorative touch. Crown is considered the trickiest type of molding to install. It typically is nailed to the wall through studs for a safe and sturdy attachment. There is another option to install crown if there are no studs. This method will have the same result with just a little more effort.

Instructions

1. Measure the length of the wall and write down the length of the first side. Measure and mark the piece of crown molding to that length. Turn the molding upside down and set it along the fence of the miter saw.

2. Slide it in the saw so it is standing against the fence. Line up the saw blade to the mark. Turn on the saw and pull down the lever to cut straight through the molding along the mark.

3. Flip the crown back over and hold it up on the wall where it will be installed to make sure it fits properly. Apply a small bead of construction adhesive across the entire top edge with a caulk gun. Run a tiny bead across the whole piece. Repeat the same process along the bottom.

4. Place the crown molding back in the corner and press it into place by hand. Push down firmly so the construction adhesive can bond to the wall. Hammer in finishing nails along the top of the crown molding, spaced every 8 inches throughout the piece, to help hold it in place.

5. Install the next piece and all of the remaining pieces the same way. Cut them to the proper angle and add construction adhesive to help them adhere to the wall.

Tags: construction adhesive

Acoustical Ceiling Tiles Containing Perlite Insulation

A naturally occurring substance known as volcanic glass quickly heated to above 1,600 degrees Fahrenheit pops like popcorn but much smaller, resulting in its expanded form called perlite. If you have ever purchased potting soil, you might be surprised to know that the little, white, squishy balls in it are perlite. Perlite is primarily used for construction, horticultural and industrial applications with a primary market in acoustical ceiling tiles.

Flat Tiles

Flat, acoustic ceiling tiles containing perlite are manufactured through starch production. This process combines expanded perlite and mineral wool with clays and starch. The slurry is dewatered and pressed to form tiles of predetermined thickness. Acoustic tiles control up to 85 percent of echo and vibration, depending on tile thickness and depth of any air gap behind the tiles.

Molded Tiles

A coffered ceiling is made of molded architectural ceiling tiles produced by combining perlite, mineral wool and fillers with metal silicate. The mixture is hydraulically pressed into a mold, removed then heat- or chemically-cured. Molded acoustic ceiling tiles combine visual appeal with sound-absorbing qualities to produce an ambiance desired by many up-scale restaurants and hotels.

Panels

Acoustic ceiling panels are much like square tiles, only larger and typically rectangle in shape. Panels are used in conjunction with a suspended or drop ceiling system. A suspended ceiling is commonly used in commercial building projects, such as shopping malls, hospitals and schools, to hide duct work, wiring and pipes from view.

Properties

Perlite is an odorless mineral compound known as sodium potassium aluminum silicate that varies in composition. It is a fully oxidized, non-flammable and noncombustible material; it will melt at temperatures above 2,000 degrees Fahrenheit. Acoustic ceiling tiles that contain perlite insulation absorb sound energy and turn it into heat.

Installation

Just as with installing floor tile, installing ceiling tiles requires accurate measuring and planning. If you are using peel-and-stick tiles and the ceiling is textured, you should install a thin backer board first. This will provide you with a smooth, level surface for better adhesion. The most difficult part of installing a drop ceiling grid system is getting it level and plumb in all directions. The trick to this is to use a laser leveler, especially if you are tiling a large area.

Precautions

Avoid eye and respiratory irritation by wearing eye protection and a mask during acoustic ceiling tile installation and cleanup. Perlite dust is not hazardous to your health but may aggravate existing respiratory conditions. A canister vacuum or broom can be used for cleanup; no special treatment is required for disposal of the dust or tile remnants.

Tags: ceiling tiles, above degrees, above degrees Fahrenheit, acoustic ceiling, acoustic ceiling tiles, degrees Fahrenheit, drop ceiling