Bathrooms are often tight spaces that are difficult to maneuver in if you're in a wheelchair or using an aid like crutches. The Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA) put building codes into place to make public facilities more accessible to all people including physically challenged people. When designing an ADA bathroom, faucet controls, shower heads, grab bars, shower stalls, mirrors and paper towel holders all must adhere to strict guidelines.
Instructions
1. Build the doorway so it is a minimum of 32 inches wide. This will allow walkers and wheelchairs through. Do not allow the threshold to be higher or lower than the floor. Make the door swing out instead of in, with adequate clearance on both sides.
2. Make the bathroom big enough to accommodate a 5-ft. circle in the center. This allows a wheelchair to turn around completely.
3. Install a bar on the side wall next to the toilet. The bar must be at least 42 inches long. Space it a foot from the rear wall, so it extends 54 inches from the rear wall.
4. Put a grab bar on the rear wall, behind the toilet. It must be at least 36 inches long and extend from the center line of the bathroom at least a foot on one side and 2 ft. minimum on the other side.
5. Install a roll-in shower compartment that is wide enough for wheelchair accessibility. ADA guidelines state that they must be a minimum of 30 inches wide by 60 inches deep. The entry on the face of the shower must be 60 inches wide.
6. Put the controls for bathtub faucets on the side of the tub closest to the entry. Use faucets that can be turned on and off with one hand. They should not need a strong grip or a lot of pressure to operate. Mount the shower head on the wall, and use one that is handheld.
7. Convert an existing bathtub by adding a permanent seat and grab bars. Two grab bars must be attached to the back wall, and each one must be 24 inches long.
8. Put mirrors up. According to the ADA, those that are above counter tops or lavatories must be no more than 40 inches from the floor. Other mirrors must be 35 inches from the floor. Full-length mirrors should be placed low enough for people who use wheelchairs. The top edge of mirrors need to be at least 74 inches from the floor.
9. Install a toilet paper holder without controlled delivery. Those that use folded tissue are not recommended because the people must be able to pinch their fingers together to remove the paper. Install standard toilet tissue rolls so their forward edge is within 36 inches from the back wall. The centerline must be at least 19 inches above the floor.
Tags: , least inches, , grab bars, inches from floor
Remove wood paneling from your walls to update your rooms.
Wood paneling can give walls a homey and comfortable appearance. Unfortunately, these coverings can also become quickly dated. If you've inherited a house with wood paneling on the walls, or have just decided that it's time for a change of pace, you can remove the wood paneling yourself.
Instructions
1. Remove anything that might be hanging on the wood paneling, such as pictures or shelving. Remove socket and light switch plates by loosening the screws with a screwdriver and pulling them off.
2. Use a claw hammer or pry bar to remove any strips of moulding visible on the perimeters of the wood paneling.
3. Insert the end of the pry bar underneath one side of the paneling. Gently pry the paneling away from the wall. Grab the edges of the panel with your fingers and pull it backwards until it comes off the wall.
4. Continue working your way around the room and pulling off the wooden panels from the wall with a pry bar.
5. Melt off glued paneling with a heat gun or hair dryer. Start at the edge of the panel and blow hot air over where the panel meets the wall. Gradually pull the panel backwards as you work. Have an assistant hold the panel, if needed, while you continue to blow on the glue with the hair dryer or heat gun.
A galley kitchen is a straight room with only one entry. There is counter space and cabinetry on both sides, separated by an aisle at least 36 inches wide. The layout is efficient and functional and creates a work triangle--the area from the sink to the stove to the refrigerator and back. If you have limited space, a long narrow room and a three-foot aisle, you can have a galley kitchen. You can take your preliminary design ideas to a kitchen designer or manufacturer to get help on standard cabinet sizes.
Instructions
Galley-Style Kitchen
1. Take measurements of your existing space. If you are attempting to add cabinetry to your existing layout, you must know whether it is possible. Although a galley-style kitchen typically has one entrance with cabinetry on both sides of an aisle, it can be U-shaped when there is space.
2. Sketch your kitchen so that you have something to take to the cabinet maker. A galley-style kitchen is essentially a hallway. Standard base cabinets (the lower cabinets) have a depth of 25 inches. With cabinets on each side and an aisle width of 36 inches, the depth of the space ideally should be 86 inches. The aisle can be narrower, but remember, you need to be able to fully open the oven door.
3. Use the scale ruler to create a scaled drawing of the space. A scaled ruler is made so that, for example, a quarter of an inch is equal to a foot. Your drawing will be a miniature footprint of your actual kitchen.
4. Locate the plumbing, gas line and all electrical outlets. Mark these on your drawing. Locate any areas that will need special accommodations, such as windows, doors and heaters. If you want to have any of these changed, relocated or removed, enlist the help of a professional.
5. Figure your kitchen working triangle. The sink, stove or cook top and refrigerator should be approximately 36 inches apart from one other in a triangular configuration.
6. Take these measurements to a local cabinet manufacturer. There you will be able to select cabinet style, color and wood species. There are standard sizes of cabinets, but depending on the layout of your space and architectural details such as windows and doors, some custom sizing may be necessary. There should be 18 inches on each side of the stove for taking pots off the stove and turning pot handles away from the cooking area.
7. Choose a cabinet style and color that appeal to your personal style. A galley kitchen is not a design style, it is the layout of the kitchen. Your galley kitchen can be whatever decorative style you choose, such as Tuscan, country, traditional or contemporary. The cabinet style will dictate the style of your kitchen.
8. Choose the rest of your kitchen details, such as appliances, countertop and backsplash. Since galley kitchens are narrow, select appliances that will fit well into the space and will open easily. If your space is dark, incorporate overhead lighting and under-cabinet lighting.
9. Consider using glass-front upper cabinets or open shelving to create a feeling of openness and spaciousness.
10. Be creative with your galley kitchen. It may seem small, but this style is functional and workable. Peruse kitchen magazines and cut out pictures of your favorites.
Tags: your kitchen, cabinet style, galley kitchen, both sides, cabinet style color, cabinetry both, cabinetry both sides
The relative energy efficiency of a recessed ceiling light fixture is determined by the type of bulb and the fixture housing. The most energy efficient bulbs are compact fluorescent lamps (CFLs) and LED (light-emitting diode). You can use a CFL with any standard recessed fixture, or install a "fluorescent" recessed fixture for use with CFLs. LED lights offer the best energy efficiency and are available in recessed fixtures. However, this is an emerging technology, and fixtures currently are out of most people's price range. For any recessed fixtures that will go into an insulated ceiling, be sure to use an airtight, IC-rated (insulated ceiling) fixture, to minimize heat loss through the fixture housing.
Instructions
Install Energy Efficient Recessed Light Fixtures
1. Turn off the power to the fixture circuit and any other circuits in the project area. Mark the ceiling surface to indicate the precise center of the fixtures. If necessary, use a stud finder or a hammer and finish nail to locate the ceiling joists in the area. Installation varies by fixture: some fixtures mount between joist pairs, some mount to the side of a joist, and some are simply inserted into holes in the drywall ceiling.
2. Mark a hole onto the ceiling for each fixture by tracing around the fixture housing or drawing a circle using a pencil compass. Use a drywall saw to cut out the hole.
3. Fasten each fixture's mounting frame to the ceiling joists, as directed. For insert-type (or "remodel") fixtures, install the fixtures after making the wiring connections.
4. Secure the circuit cable to the fixture or the junction box on the mounting frame. Complete the wiring connections according to the manufacturer's wiring diagram
5. Install the fixture, securing it to the or drywall. If the ceiling already is insulated, cover the fixture with insulation (for IC-rated fixtures only), as directed. Install a CFL designed for recessed fixtures. Turn on the power to the circuit and test the fixtures.
Tags: Efficient Recessed, Energy , fixture housing, Install Energy, Install Energy Efficient, mounting frame, recessed fixtures
The living room is light and casual, and gives the feeling that you're outdoors. Here's get the look right.
Instructions
1. Select seating pieces that are upholstered in a light-colored fabric such as a solid off-white cotton or linen, country check, awning stripe or floral. Add coordinating pillows, some with flounces.
2. Go with a coffee table that doesn't have a heavy look. A dainty, light-toned wood table will work, or a glass-topped metal or wicker-and-metal model. Consider putting a glass top over a garden bench if you can find one in the right height.
3. Use end tables that are light-toned wood or are painted. Painted tables could be embellished with a floral design or might appear to be worn and weathered.
4. Light the room with table lamps that are low-key, with plain wrought iron or ceramic bases, or that underscore and have floral motif shades and terracotta, wicker or floral-motif bases.
5. Choose an outdoorsy sisal area rug, or a wool or cotton one with a . If the floor is hardwood, keep it light - a dark stain could pull down the happy feel of your room.
6. Dress the windows simply or leave them bare to blur the separation between indoors and outdoors. Simple curtains that work well include checks, plain solids (for example, homespun-look tab-tops hung on a tree-branch rod), eyelet, and of course, florals.
7. Hang pictures that celebrate the garden - blooming landscapes, botanical drawings or floral still lifes.
8. Accessorize further with all types of flowers - dried, silk, fresh, potted - in pitchers, watering cans and vases. Other suitable accessories include lace doilies, vintage-look tablecloths, animal figurines, birdhouses, baskets and even well-worn garden tools.
A drop ceiling might be viewed, as a more complicated solution than drywall but in reality drop ceilings are not overly difficult to install. Drop ceilings can be decorative or completely functional and should be considered as an option, especially when a drywall ceiling may not work.
Where to Install
A drop ceiling is often installed in basements or areas where drywall can't be put or shouldn't be put. Basements usually have mechanical components that prevent drywall being put over the ceiling joists. Sometimes additional lumber can be used to make bulkheads around features things as HVAC ducts so that drywall can be applied. Another reason a drop ceiling might be installed is to allow easy access to the mechanical components. For the most part, you cannot install a drop ceiling over a drywall ceiling. You need the wood joists to attach the .
Materials Needed
What you need to install a drop ceiling are a few basic tools and ceiling tiles. There are a variety of ceiling tile styles and sizes to choose from. You can buy squares or rectangles. Find the square footage of your ceiling to figure out how many tiles you will need. The tiles will not all fit evenly and you will need to buy more tiles than the amount of square footage. The amount of extra tiles needed will vary depending on your ceiling shape and obstacles such as light fixtures. The basic tools you'll need are: utility knife, level, step ladder, carpenter's square, string, tin snips, hammer, nails and screwdriver. You will also need eyelets, wire and drop ceiling framing to build the system.
Preparing to Install
You will need about six to eight hours to put a drop ceiling in place on an average room. Plan to have at least one other person help you and have a ladder tall enough to reach the ceiling easily. Expect to make lots of measurements and cuts to the wiring and frame as well as to the ceiling tiles. Take your time to go slowly and get it right. Wear gloves to keep your hands from getting cut.
Tags: drop ceiling, will need, basic tools, ceiling might, ceiling tiles
Lighting is one of the most important elements in any interior design scheme, perhaps second only to color. Lighting influences the overall mood of a room and determines the functional character of the space as well. The design of proper lighting in an open floor plan or a "great room" is especially challenging because of the larger size and architectural character of the space. Use extra care to avoid lighting "voids."
Instructions
1. "Wash" the space with light. Provide for overhead lighting that will cover the room with a broad "brush" of light. This can be accomplished with recessed ceiling "cans" or "pot lights" equipped with flood-type bulbs. Pot lights should be placed around the perimeter of the space on 48-inch centers approximately 24 inches away from the walls, according to the American Lighting Association. For extremely large rooms, it may be necessary to install a row of pot lights down the mid-line of the room in order to fill in the center of the space with "wash." Avoid using any tube-type florescent lighting fixtures as wash lighting. These fixtures are very hard on the eyes, often emit a faint but annoying "buzz" sound, are extremely unflattering to , and will often alter the perception of color in the room. Wash rooms with very tall ceilings, and give the room a cozier feeling by adding lighting fixtures hidden behind "coves" or troughs that circle the perimeter of the room.
2. Provide for "task" lighting. Task lights illuminate specific areas of the room where people will be conducting some type of sustained activity. Task lights are usually provided through the use of floor or tabletop lamps. Determine how these lamps will be powered, especially if furniture will be placed in the center of the room, as is usually the case in "great rooms." The installation of floor pocket electrical outlets can make this problem much easier to overcome, and avoiding the use of ugly and sometimes dangerous extension cords. Halogen "hockey puck" lights can be installed in the undersides of any overhanging cabinets or shelves to provide task lighting. Choose bulbs for table and floor lamps carefully. If using environmentally friendly and efficient CFLs (Compact Florescent Lamps), make sure they cast a "warm" spectrum light rather than a cooler "blue" light. Cool-spectrum CFL bulbs are often hard and unflattering to skin tones. Make sure all CFL bulbs are "matched" for spectrum color in any lamps in the room. Providing for task lights to be dimmed is a plus, but sometimes difficult, if using CFL bulbs.
3. Add "highlights" to the room, as desired. Spotlights add drama or "pop" to an open floor plan room. They direct the eye to special features such as artwork, architectural features like fireplaces, or particularly attractive furniture pieces like built-ins and entertainment centers. Spotlights can be provided with recessed pot lights or track lighting using bright, warm halogen bulbs.
Tags: character space, lighting fixtures, skin tones, space with, task lighting, Task lights
You may have some wood paneling still in your home. Paneling makes your room dark and uninviting, but you can cover paneling without having to take it down. You can paint, you can use regular wallpaper or put up textured wallpaper that can be painted. Either method of coverage works with a little preparation, and your room can be updated in just a weekend.
Instructions
1. Fill the paneling grooves with caulk.
Fill in the grooves in the paneling with caulk if they are 1/4 inch deep or deeper. Squeeze a thin strip of caulking into the indention and smooth with a putty knife. Repeat until the grooves are all filled in. Let dry per the container instructions.
2. Sand the wood paneling lightly with a fine-grain sandpaper by hand. This will take the slick finish off the paneling.
3. Vacuum the walls with the vacuum cleaner and soft brush attachment. Wipe the walls with a clean rag to get the dust residue off the walls.
4. Paint the paneling with acrylic primer and let dry per the can instructions.
5. Apply acrylic emulsion sizing, which will make the wallpaper stick to the paneling. Let dry per the directions.
6. Hang paintable, textured wallpaper vertically. Cut a piece of wallpaper 6 inches longer than the vertical wall area to cover, using the scissors. Wet each piece in a wallpaper water tray, let rest 10 minutes and apply each piece to the wall from top to bottom, pressing all over with a smoothing tool.
7. Trim the top and bottom with a wallpaper knife at the edges of the trim.
8. Put the second piece next to the first, making seams butt next to each other tightly. There is no print to match, so there is little waste. Continue until walls are covered; then let wallpaper dry completely.
9. Apply two coats of acrylic wall paint on the textured wallpaper. Let dry between coats.
Tags: paneling with, textured wallpaper, , piece wallpaper, walls with
Because windowless bathrooms have no natural light source, they can seem small and dark. Decorating a windowless bathroom involves making it as light and airy as possible to combat any feelings of being cramped into a small space. When you finish decorating, you should have a relaxed bathroom that does not feel dim or tiny. The process will involve a careful color selection, as well as the addition of fixtures and other accessories.
Instructions
1. Remove outdated and metal light fixtures. Replace them with soft white light fixtures and compact , which have a softer glow.
2. Paint the walls and ceilings a light, neutral color such as off-white or light gray. You can also use shades of light pastels or wallpaper with vertical texturing to give the illusion of height in the room. Select floor tile that is neutral and light, or cover existing tile with a light-colored throw rug.
3. Replace old, rusted or plastic bathroom fixtures with reflective chrome or brushed nickel fixtures. They will reflect light in the room, adding to the airy feeling.
4. Hang a large painting or photo of an outdoor scene to give the illusion of a window. Select a frame that resembles a window frame. Hang the photo on an opposite wall from the shower, or hang it behind glass.
5. Install accessories that match the light color scheme. Replace the shower curtain with a light-colored one or one that has a light-colored, small print. Use white fluffy towels and reflective towel holders.
6. Install a dehumidifier in the bathroom to help combat moisture. Windowless bathrooms should also have an up-to-date ventilation system.
Tags: fluorescent lights, give illusion, light fixtures, with light-colored
The once-popular wood paneling has all but vanished new home decor. Paneling dominates any room it's in, covering every inch of wall space with bland brown hues and telltale vertical paneling lines. To achieve a modern home look, wood paneling must be covered. The process is time-consuming, taking at least one-full day of solid work, but the results are worth it.
Instructions
1. Add clean cold water to a 5-gallon bucket. Consult the mixing directions on your bag of plaster for the most accurate water-to-plaster ratio for the specific plaster you're using.
2. Pour powdered plaster into the water and mix with a mixing drill bit. If you do not have a bit, UltimateHandyman.co.uk recommends using a clean piece of wood to stir the mixture--just keep in mind that manual mixing takes much longer. Mix until the solution is clump-free and smooth.
3. Apply plaster to the wood using a small trowel or a putty knife. This practice of lightly filling in the paneling grooves and seams for a smooth look is called "skim coating." DoItYourself.com explains that it covers paneling well, leading to a modern, uniform surface without tearing down the paneling and putting up drywall.
4. Use the trowel or to smooth out the plaster as best you can while it is still wet, as this will save you time later on when you're sanding away rough patches.
5. Sand any rough patches of 100-grit sandpaper after the plaster has cured. Do not use tougher sandpaper, even for uneven patches. Simply sand more vigorously and work longer on the area using the 100-grit sandpaper. Tougher sandpaper with a grit rating below 100 can damage your thin wall paneling. Once sanded smooth, the wall is now completely covered and ready to accept primer and paint for a new, fresh wall without any traces of that old, outdated paneling.
Mice are great at surviving, and when they work their way indoors, they usually find plenty of shelter and food, making homes an ideal place to nest. Unfortunately they also carry diseases, ruin food and cause structural damage. House mice are often found in basements, and one sure way to get rid of a mouse infestation is to make the home inhospitable to the rodents and to trap and dispose of the mice currently living there.
Instructions
1. Get rid of food sources. Deep clean cupboards, flooring and countertops in the kitchen as this is where mice will often travel for food. Empty garbage bins daily, and make sure the area around the receptacle is kept clean. Store pantry foods in plastic or glass sealable containers. Avoid leaving pet food out after the pets have eaten.
2. Make a home less hospitable. To successfully get rid of mice in the basement, you must take steps to prevent new mice from entering the building. Prevention begins with the outside of the house. Move all potential shelter away from the house. This includes wood, brush or compost piles as well as trash bins and appliances. Make sure all basement windows fit securely, and cover any visible holes with metal or glass.
3. Choose your traps. The two most widely used are glue boards and snap-traps. Neither trap uses dangerous chemicals, which can be deadly to both people and pets. Glue boards catch mice much the same way flypaper catches flies. While snap-traps lure mice in with bait and close on the mouse when the mechanism is triggered. Many glue boards are scented to attract mice, while snap-traps must be baited. Popular baits for mouse traps include peanut butter, cheese and chocolate.
4. Place the traps. Mice use their whiskers to help them travel by feel, which means the mice travel very close to walls to navigate. In the basement, place traps along the walls and across rafters at regular intervals of 10 to 15 feet apart. Concentrate on areas where the most mouse activity is found. Identify places where mice congregate regularly by mouse droppings and chewed materials.
5. Check and dispose of traps safely. Check traps daily and dispose of any mice in a safe and sanitary manner. Wear thick gloves before handling dead rodents. For extra protection and easier disposal, hold a plastic bag inside-out and grab the trap or rodent. Pull the bag right-side out, and tie it up promptly. Dispose of the rodents in a trash receptacle for regular garbage pickup. Clean the area thoroughly, and wash your hands with soap and warm water after handling.
Tags: dispose mice, glue boards, mouse traps, where mice
Use large furniture and decor to balance the scale of the room.
It's often difficult to decorate rooms with high ceilings because they can feel cold and disproportionate. It's easy for furniture and decor pieces to become lost inside the room and look inappropriate for their scale. There are, however, several things you can do to overcome these problems. No structural changes are needed; you can change the appearance of the room's size just by the decor you use in it. The key to decorating rooms with high ceilings is balance; everything must appear in proportion without the ceiling taking too much focus.
Instructions
1. Paint the walls a rich, warm color to make the room seem smaller and cozier. Use browns, oranges or reds to create a warm and homey atmosphere. Alternatively, you can maximise the impression of space by decorating the room with white for a modern decor. Wallpaper is an alternative if you don't want to use paint. Horizontal stripes make the ceiling appear closer while large patterns look more proportionate with the room's height than smaller ones.
2. Paint the ceiling a cream, ivory or tan color to make it appear lower. Dark colors might result in a striking impact, but they can make the room look claustrophobic if the walls are painted with color as well.
3. Hang large pieces of art at eye level. Higher pieces will draw your attention to the tall ceiling and can make the room feel too big. Choose large pieces that won't be swallowed by the room but instead make an impact. Also select art pieces that match your own personal taste; however, colorful artwork can increase the room's warmth.
4. Decorate the room with large pieces of furniture featuring tall legs and backs. This creates a sense of proportion and scale beneath the tall ceiling. Group any smaller pieces of furniture you're using together to anchor them in the space and give them more prominence.
5. Hang long curtains that drape from the top of the window to the floor. The curtains' heights will help to balance the room's proportions, and full-length styles work equally well with full-sized windows and smaller ones.
6. Hang a large light fixture from the ceiling. A large light fixture will both make the ceiling look smaller and add interest to the room if anybody looks up. Smaller light fixtures might not draw as much attention to the ceiling, but they will make it look much bigger because they don't fit its scale.
Tags: large pieces, make room, because they, , , Hang large
There are two very important things that all homeowners should almost always buy for each bathroom. The first is a light fixture. Regardless of the circumstances, you should have some sort of light in the bathroom. A built-in fixture is much easier to use than a lamp, for example. The second thing you need is a bathroom fan. This is necessary for any bathroom that has a shower or bath to reduce condensation, but the fan can also be used to decrease unpleasant odors.
Instructions
Bathroom Fan
1. Figure out the air-moving capacity needs for your bathroom. This is measured in cubic feet per minute, or cfm; you need one cfm for each square foot of space in your bathroom, according to Consumer Reports.
2. Check the noise level of each bathroom fan before you purchase one. This is measured by the industry in sones, and a rating of 0.5 to 1.2 sones is relatively quiet, while 4 sones is very loud.
3. Find out how the bathroom fan needs to be installed. Some are positioned within your ceiling and powered by simple wiring. Others have more complicated installation instructions that will likely require a professional.
Bathroom Light Fixture
4. Figure out where you want the light fixture for your bathroom to be located. You can choose to mount one light fixture in the center of the ceiling, for example, or you can position it closer to the sink, allowing for more light around the mirror.
5. Pay attention to the color of the light fixture and light fixture hardware. Buy one that matches the decor of . For example, if you already have all gold fixtures and light colored walls and floors, you would not buy a light fixture with silver hardware and a bold color.
6. Look carefully at the style options for the bathroom light fixture. Again, it should compliment, not detract from, the existing style in your bathroom, such as modern, traditional or eclectic.
7. Find out install the bathroom light fixture. Like the bathroom fan, the installation process can be simple or somewhat complicated; however, most bathroom light fixtures can be installed by homeowners.
Mediterranean-style decorating is influenced by the decor of the countries lining the northern Mediterranean Sea, from the coast of Spain all the way to Turkey. With an emphasis on simple luxury, the style lends itself perfectly to bathroom decor. Mediterranean style features clean lines, bold colors and rustic, yet elegant, accessories and fixtures that help make any bathroom feel like a relaxing retreat.
Tiles and Mosaics
Tiles and mosaics are a key part of Mediterranean-style . Whether it is a floor made from cool terracotta tiles or a backsplash created from hand painted ceramic tiles, no Mediterranean bathroom is complete without some sort of tile work. In some Mediterranean bathrooms, artists create ornate mosaics from individual tiles either on the walls or the floors. Tiles are carried over into other areas of the bathroom as well, perhaps covering the vanity countertops or the top of a small accent table.
Colors
are distinguished by the use of bright, sun-drenched colors. Shades of bright blue often evoke images of the sunny Greek isles, while warm orange, red and yellow hues conjure up images of the Italian coast. Pure bright white is also common in Mediterranean-style decor. You can achieve the look of the plaster or stucco walls common in Mediterranean homes by using a glazing technique to color wash your walls; use a sponge or rag to remove some of the glaze for a subtle, textured effect.
Accessories
Wrought iron and ceramics are also indicative of Mediterranean design. You can add wrought iron touches to your bathroom by including a decorative wrought iron piece on the wall, wrought iron towel racks or accent furniture with wrought iron details. Use earthenware accessories, such as glazed stoneware soap dispensers or vases, to bring ceramics into the room. Some home goods retailers offer mosaic-inspired bathroom accessories that also add to the Mediterranean theme.
Curves and Arches
Mediterranean style decorating also generally features curves and arches. If you don't already have arches in your home and are remodeling, include arched windows or add an arched alcove to the bathroom. If you aren't remodeling, you can still bring the shapes into the decor through accessories. Choose a graceful arched or round mirror to hang over the sink and vanity area. Choosing a mirror with detailed iron scroll work only reinforces the theme. Arches and curves can also be worked into the light fixtures; wall sconces with curved bases or details are ideal accent lights.
Quiet colors of paint and wood stains can create a vibrant room.
Lilac and gray are subdued colors, so working with them in the same room can be tricky. The secret to achieving beautiful, not bland, is to vary intensities, use lots of white and focus on texture. Experiment with paints and surface colors under different light sources, because some grays and most purples change in various lights and can go flat and brownish or just look gloomy. Try the combination in a long eat-in refectory kitchen located in a typically awkward space, such as a loft. Use every surface for a mix of subtle shades.
Instructions
1. Start at the top. Paint the ceiling plum purple. Keep crown moldings, all trim and the walls and window frames in dazzling white. To reflect natural light from the windows, use medium gloss paint on the purple ceiling.
2. Install a line of silvered gray wood cabinets along one wall that look like bleached teak or salty driftwood. Keep the backsplash white in either tile or the same paint as the walls. A white composite countertop or a slab of white marble or very pale limestone keeps the work area bright.
3. Tackle the wood floor with painter's tape and a tape measure. First paint the wood floor stark shiny white and give it at least two coats for good coverage. Create a large polygonal pattern that looks like light falling through an octagonal or hexagonal mullioned window.
If this seems too ambitious, just measure the floor into diamonds, tape the lines and paint every other one. Use a light gray, such as dove gray, for the design on the floor, leaving the open or alternate spaces white. Seal the floor with a clear protective coat.
4. Strip an old farm or refectory wood table and stain the wood a very pale lilac. Hire a professional to work on it offsite if the table can't safely and easily be stripped in the space. Wax-finish the stained wood or coat it with low gloss polyurethane. Position the table in the center of the room between powder gray cabinets and the windows. Surround it with spare black modern or Ming design chairs.
5. Hang a line of white paper pendants or a contemporary glass chandelier over the table and set a line of jam jars full of violets down the center. Keep the room uncluttered, the counters clear and the dishes plain white for a low-key, high-energy, eat-in kitchen that's light on color and long on style.
The primary purpose of insulation is to help maintain the temperature of an indoor area. Since heat naturally moves toward cooler areas, insulation works by providing an extra barrier for heat to move through.
Winter Benefits
During the winter, the inside of a building is significantly warmer than the temperature of the outdoors, even if the extra warmth is only provided by body heat and running equipment. By adding insulation to your building, you effectively increase the amount of heat that stays inside by making it harder for it to escape. This is especially true in the case of ceiling insulation, because warmer air rises.
Summer Benefits
During the summer, the inside of a building is usually cooler than the temperature of the outdoors, due to the lack of direct sunlight. Adding insulation to a building for summer time purposes works in exactly the same manner as for winter, but in reverse. The heat outside is constantly moving toward , and an between outdoors and indoors could make a significant difference in the temperature of any building.
Additional Benefits
Depending on the type of insulation used, there are other benefits to ceiling insulation. Many companies now provide reflective insulation for metal buildings, which will not only serve to increase the visibility within the building, but may also improve the building's appearance.
Tags: Benefits During, cooler areas, extra barrier, inside building, temperature outdoors, than temperature, than temperature outdoors
An LCD TV is one of the best ways to view modern media.
An LCD screen can be a real boon for your television and DVD watching, offering a sharp image and great colors. But LCDs can suffer from a problem known as flashlighting, which can be patches of "cloud" that can appear in the corner of the screen or in rarer cases, all over it. It can be extremely noticeable in dark scenes and become distracting.
Instructions
1. Check to see if your LCD television is still under warranty; if it is, phone or email the store or the maker you bought if from and ask to have an engineer sent out to check the . If it is determined that it is bad enough to distract you from your viewing pleasure, it should be replaced or repaired. This is obviously a difficult issue because it is subjective; if it is not felt that the flashlighting issue you have is distracting enough, it will not be fixed and you could be charged for the engineer's visit.
2. If your warranty has expired, try tapping or massaging the screen in the area that is affected by the flashlighting. Remember to protect the screen by keeping any tapping or massaging as gentle as possible while ensuring your fingers are covered with a cloth to avoid leaving greasy fingerprints on the screen.
3. If the tapping or massaging doesn't work, cover the palm and fingers of your hand with a cloth and then gently but firmly push on the affected area of the screen. Use extreme caution because pushing too hard could either damage or dislodge the television.
4. Locate the top panel screws of your LCD television and using a screwdriver, check how securely tightened they are. You might find that some screws are more tightly screwed to the TV's frame than others. Use the screwdriver to slightly loosen them. This could release the pressure on the LCD's panel and fix the flashlighting problem.
Tags: tapping massaging, your television, flashlighting issue, with cloth
Decorate your space to showcase your ceiling beams or diminish their impact.
Homes that have ceiling beams range from log cabins in the woods to grand estates in posh private communities. Some homes have ceiling beams for decorative purposes alone, while other homes include them for stability and support. Decorate a room with ceiling beams in a way that showcases or camouflages them. Beams can become an intricate part of your decor, accentuate your decor or fade into the background depending on the way you decorate your space.
Instructions
1. Paint the ceiling, beams or walls, depending on the decor style you want. Stain the beams with a dark, rich wood color if you want to draw attention to the because the room is vast, or you want an elegant look. For a rustic decor, leave the beams untreated or stain them to look like the natural wood of your choice. Paint the ceiling and beams the same color if you want them to fade into the background.
2. Furnish the room with eclectic or interesting furniture to avoid drawing eyes up to the beams, if you want to camouflage them. Use furniture that incorporates the same tones and wood as the beams to complement the beams if you want to focus on the beams.
3. Choose curtains and a rug that complement the room's decor. For example, simple curtains and a simple rug wouldn't draw attention away from the beams. An ornate rug and elaborate curtains will demand attention and keep the eyes focused downward if you don't want any attention on the beams.
4. Accessorize the room with a few complementary items to focus attention upward. For example, a vast mirror framed in the same wood as the beams will reflect images in the room, including the ceiling. Hang floating shelves in the same wood to hold other decorative items. Wreaths or picture frames in the same color as the beams would work as well. To keep attention focused on the room rather than the ceiling, include bold colors or patterns in your accessories. For example, a large wall arrangement of art or pictures will keep your eyes focused on the walls.
If you want to make a dramatic statement to your decor or just get rid of the popcorn stippled ceilings, then decorative ceiling panels might be in your future. These panels come in a variety of designs to fit any decor. It's one of the finishing touches that turns a good room decor into a great room design.
Uses
Consider the decorative ceiling panels not just for the additional beauty or to hide an ugly feature, but also for practicality. These panels add additional insulation to keep the room cozy whether it's summer or winter. They also help with sound protection and acoustics of the room. If you worry about waking the children because of the noise from a late night television program, these panels help relieve the worry and deaden the noise.
Finish
Get the tiles finished or unfinished. Some tiles come with metallic finishes, intricately painted patterns or even designs on the panels. You also can get simple white designer ceiling panels if you want to paint them yourself.
Content
There are several types of materials used for decorative ceiling tiles. If you want something sturdy to glue on a flat surface, then the PVC ceiling panels work well. Simply glue these tiles to the flat ceiling. If you want the panels to provide acoustical elements, use a Styrofoam, Polystyrene (a type of plastic similar to Styrofoam) or mineral fiber acoustical panels. These also come in colors or you paint them.
Types
Install directly onto the ceiling with acoustical adhesive, nails or staple if you don't have a suspended grid system. The grid system is for decorative drop ceilings. Use grids if the ceiling beneath is not in good repair and can't withstand the weight of the tiles. The space between the true ceiling and the drop ceiling provides an additional layer of insulation.
Water Resistant
Select the design that suits your decor. Most ceiling panels are paintable. Check the tile to see if you can repaint it before you make your final selection. Also, check the method best to clean the decorative ceiling panels. The easiest are those that clean with soap and water.
Installation
Check to see if you can easily glue the tiles over surfaces like popcorn ceilings. Not all tiles need flat surfaces in order to glue them to uneven surfaces like the popcorn ceiling. Styrofoam, for instance, readily accepts gluing. Make sure you use the appropriate glue for the decorative tile. Since all are from various materials, follow the manufacturer's recommendation when you glue.
Real Metal and Wood
Investigate a true metal or wood panel ceiling. Manufacturers create panels to look like the metal ceiling panels from yesteryear. Armstrong makes real metal panels. Why settle for fake wood panels when you can have the real thing?
Drop ceiling tiles come in a variety of colors, sizes and materials.
Drop ceilings or suspended ceilings provide a false ceiling that sits suspended below the actual ceiling in a room or building. Drop ceilings come in a variety of setups, some with small tiles and others with larger panels. Different setups provide options for various budgets and styles of rooms or buildings.
Grid Options
Grid drop-ceiling setups come with either exposed or concealed grids. In exposed grid setups, you can see the metal grid network from below. The long strips of metal, called mains, connect to each other with short strips of metal, called tees. The ceiling tiles' edges sit against the grid, holding the tiles in place. In concealed grid setups, you cannot see the grid from below. The tiles have grooves in their sides, allowing the grid pieces to slide inside the tiles so from below the tiles sit flush with one another. Gaining access to the ducts, electrical wires or plumbing in the ceiling involves more work with a concealed grid system.
Wire Suspension
Not all drop-ceiling setups make use of a grid that keeps the drop-ceiling tiles in place. Some systems use wires that anchor into the true ceiling as well as panels that sit suspended below. These panels may be made of drywall, plastic or a variety of other materials. Wire suspension systems do not require the extensive framework used in grid drop-ceiling setups, allowing them to cover a greater area with less hardware and fewer setup steps. The panels may cover only certain parts of the true ceiling, adding architectural interest in the building.
Color Options
Drop-ceiling tiles come in a variety of colors, which you may keep consistent for all of the tiles or mix with other tiles to create patterns. Some drop- come with a pattern or design already printed on them. If you need a custom color, look for ready-to-paint drop-ceiling tiles. You may use the same type of paint you use for your walls or drywall ceilings to paint the tiles. Clear ceiling with no color at all, allowing you to place pictures, posters or whatever else you desire inside the ceiling to be viewed from below.
Material Options
Drop-ceiling tiles come in a variety of materials, each with its own set of advantages. Tiles made of gypsum have a natural resistance to fire. Gypsum also does not allow moisture penetration as easily as other materials such as drywall, helping protect against mold or mildew growth in high humidity environments. Mineral fiber ceiling tiles help block sound passing through the floor and into the room above, with different brands promising different levels of sound dampening. Metal ceiling tiles give an older or higher-end look to your room, and also provide durability versus other materials that may break or crack over time. Plastic tiles come in a variety of colors, as well as textures and designs. Plastic tiles can be made to look like metal, even though the cost a fraction of metal tiles.
Tags: tiles come, ceiling tiles, come variety, from below, tiles come variety, come variety colors, come with
Low ceilings can make a room seem small, and large light hang down into the living space can be distracting or even dangerous. Understanding how light works in the room will help you choose the best lighting types for your low ceiling, whether it is in a basement, attic or other area of your home.
Flush Mount Fixtures
Flush mount fixtures are ideal for most low-ceiling rooms. These fixtures attach directly to the ceiling's surface rather than hanging below it. While recessed lighting may seem like an intuitive answer because it sits above the surface of the ceiling, you will need more recessed lighting units in a low-ceiling room than in a room with standard ceilings. This is because the light spreads out in an inverted-cone shape from the recessed fixture, and the shorter distance between the ceiling and floor cuts off the bottom of that cone, where the spread is widest. Flush mount fixtures allow the light to spread out to all sides as well as down, as long as the fixture's covering leaves the sides open or translucent.
Up Lighting
Low ceilings can be quite useful if you use them to reflect light around the room. The light doesn't have to travel as far as it bounces around the room, so it loses less intensity than it would in a room with standard ceilings. Paint your ceiling and walls a light color to maximize the bounced light, then use floor lamps that use bright halogen tube bulbs that aim up toward the ceiling. Wall sconces that aim upward from high on the walls are also helpful in low-ceiling areas, but are not generally sufficient as the primary light source. Add desk and table lamps with adjustable heads, pointed toward the walls, so the light bounces upward to fill in dark spaces within the room.
Minimize Profiles
Choose light fixtures, whether wall sconces or flush mount ceiling fixtures, that are low-profile. This means that they are thin and don't stick out into the room as much as other fixtures. For ceiling lights, look for units that use two or more bulbs in bases that hang sideways, instead of downward. Choose sconces that fit snugly against the walls. Using compact fluorescent bulbs will help you reduce the amount of heat your lights generate, making it safer to use brighter bulbs in these fixtures that have reduced air flow around the bulbs.
Tags: fixtures that, around room, Flush mount fixtures, , mount fixtures, ,
The living room in a single-wide trailer often feels cramped.
Trailers, also known as mobile homes, often have small living rooms that can easily feel dark and cluttered. The living room may only be 10 to 14 feet wide, which poses a challenge when arranging furniture and decorative pieces. The paneled walls of the trailer can be dark in color, which affects how bright a trailer can seem. When decorating a trailer’s living room, you should pay attention to opening up the space and working with color.
Instructions
1. Paint the walls and ceiling in a with a glossy finish. Painting the walls makes the room feel larger by reflecting more of the light that enters the room.
2. Purchase sheer curtains for the windows. Many trailers, especially single-wide trailers, have windows on two sides of the living room, or even three sides if it is situated on one of the ends. Take advantage of the light by leaving the blinds open and installing sheer curtains for privacy. The curtains should be a light color that matches your desired color scheme.
3. Hang a large mirror on an empty wall. Mirrors create the appearance of more space and help reflect light. When hanging heavy items such as mirrors in a trailer, be sure to find a stud in the wall or affix the mirror in multiple places to distribute its weight.
4. Install trim along the top of the walls to add architectural detail to your trailer’s living room. Strips of dark wood work well, although you can also choose to paint the trim in an accent color if desired.
5. Choose sofas and chairs upholstered in solid colors because prints can make a trailer’s living room feel too busy and small. Bookcases, coffee tables and end tables with an open feel instead of a heavy feel also give the illusion of more space.
6. Arrange furniture with the flow of traffic in mind. If the living room is located in the center of the trailer, people will walk through it to get from one end of the trailer to the other. Try to leave a walkway that does not go right through the middle of the conversation grouping of the furniture.
7. Purchase a large rug for the center of the living room. Not only does the rug hide the most likely ugly carpet that came pre-installed in the trailer, but it also gives you a chance to bring color and elegance into the room.
Tags: living room, , trailer’s living, trailer’s living room, light color
A kitchen renovation is a major undertaking for any family. There are limitless possibilities on design ideas and the only real constraint is your budget and how much time you have to do it. Many homeowners make simple renovations that can update the look of the current kitchen. Others can do a major renovation that requires not only planning but also a lot of time and effort during construction.
Space Issues
Many times the biggest problem with kitchens is not having enough space. If you have a small kitchen or if it feels cramped, consider having deeper countertops and having the cabinets extend all the way to the ceiling. This will allow for more work space and storage space. One big sink instead of two will allow for more space to do the dishes. Also if space is at a premium, consider using spaces that would seem useless, such as the space underneath the sink or in the corner. There are many different shelves and drawers for organizing odd spaces that will make these spaces more functional.
Lighting
Lighting is often overlooked when doing a kitchen remodel. Yet it can be the key element that will make a kitchen look great. A poorly lit kitchen not only does not read very well but it also affects how useful the kitchen can be used. A well lit kitchen combines task, ambient, accent and decorative lighting that are layered and blended together. Many times lighting can help make the kitchen look bigger then it actually is. Place task lighting underneath the upper cabinets to help light up the dark space between them. Place accent lighting above the upper cabinets and have them point down toward some of the open shelves or cabinets with glass doors to help light them up. Ambient lighting can be placed above the upper cabinets to light the space between them and the ceiling creating a glow that surrounds the perimeter.
Finishes and Patterns
Many times the finishes of the room will help make a kitchen feel good and comfortable. Dark colors will make a small smaller. Diagonal patterns on the tiles and back splashes will help create an illusion of expansion. If you have to use floor-to-ceiling cabinets, consider using open storage instead of closed cabinets. This will make the space look and feel open and airy. Use finishes that complement each other but also have certain areas that bring focus by creating a contrast. this is achieved by using different tiles or tile pattern in the backsplash area over the stove. Finish will help tie everything together while at the same time create places that can catch the eye.
Tags: Many times, will make, kitchen look, make kitchen, upper cabinets, will help, above upper
A planned design will make your bathroom remodel go smoothly.
Remodeling a bathroom is a good way to add value to your home. But approaching the project without a plan could cost you more money than you want to spend. Take time to put together a budget, figure out how the space should be used and obtain the permits you need. Don't head to the home-improvement store until you know exactly what you're doing.
Instructions
1. Prepare a budget. Having a clear idea of what you can afford can help you determine which upgrades are most important and which ones can be modified or eliminated. If you are hiring professionals, you may be able to cut costs by tackling some parts of the remodel yourself. Build in some money to cover extra costs and unforeseen circumstances.
2. Consider the bathroom's functionality. Most bathrooms are remodeled to improve functionality, as well as upgrade fixtures. Consider all the ways the room will be used. Does the room need one sink or two? Is there enough space for a larger bath or shower? A beautifully designed bathroom isn't worth much if it doesn't function well.
3. Decide on the amenities that will give you pleasure, such as towel warmers, special tiles or radiant flooring. Look at design magazines and websites to decide what you really want to have.
4. Be flexible. Even with the best plan, a project can encounter problems. The price of materials could rise between the time you start looking and the time your bathroom's getting done. You must be willing to downgrade to stay within your budget or do without something else to get what you want. Remaining flexible will help you keep your sanity throughout a project that can easily become nerve-wracking.
You can change the design of a vaulted ceiling using colors, images, textures, and architecture.
A vaulted ceiling often gets ignored during the decorating process when it should be a key feature in the room's design. A vaulted ceiling already has a small amount of character due to its height, but adding details such as paint, beams or texture helps tie the ceiling into your home's design theme.
Paint
Painting a vaulted ceiling with a color that complements the room is an excellent way to complete the look of the space. For instance, if you have wood elements throughout the room, paint the ceiling a similar brown tone. Matching the wall color to the ceiling color makes the room appear small despite the high ceilings, so use a color on the ceiling that subtly contrasts the wall colors.
You can also paint designs onto a vaulted ceiling. This design concept is especially ideal if you have solid color flooring; homes with fancy floor tiles need solid color ceilings, but reversing this idea allows you to embellish your ceiling and get the same effect. Painted designs work best on round, high ceilings.
Beams
Adding architectural detail to vaulted ceilings such as wooden beams helps your ceiling blend into your room's décor. High ceilings can tend to make your furniture look small because the vast open space swallows everything in it; therefore, incorporating an eye-catching ceiling detail can bring the focal point of the room back to eye level. You must use caution when planning to add architecture to your vaulted ceiling because too much of it can make the ceiling appear too heavy for the room and the ceiling will override your room's furniture. Focusing on emphasizing the room's characteristics subtly helps you avoid overpowering it. Beams work well on ceilings with flat surfaces, whether it is a traditional flat ceiling or a ceiling that progresses to a point.
Texture
You can incorporate texture on vaulted ceilings a couple of ways: textured paint, trays or coffers. Textured paint makes the room look like a single unit because it draws the ceiling into the room's design. If all the walls in the room are a light color, such as white or beige, you can keep the high ceilings the same color and still draw the room's focal point down simply by adding texture. The benefit of using textured paint is that it works on any shape vaulted ceiling.
Using wood to add trays or coffers to flat vaulted ceilings works well when the floors are a and texture. You can paint the ceiling one color, and add colored coffers that match the floor for a contrasted look. If you incorporate a single tray with wood trim, you can also contrast the trim color with the ceiling or paint it the same color and use the tray for adding texture.
Repairing a peeling ceiling takes some elbow grease.
A peeling ceiling can ruin the look of a room. Repairing the peeling paint requires some elbow grease and work at awkward angles over your head, but the result is a finished ceiling that can greatly improve the look of your room. Repair is necessary, though, because however you decide to refinish the ceiling, it needs a clean and repaired surface to adhere to.
Instructions
1. Scrape away loose paint from the ceiling that's peeling. Use a scraper for this job, or 100-grit sandpaper. This may be a big undertaking, but it is necessary, as new finish won't stick to peeling paint.
2. Apply a thin layer of patching material to any small cracks in the ceiling using a putty knife. Allow the material to dry and sand smooth with 220-grit sandpaper. Sand around the edges to ensure they're smooth with the rest of the ceiling.
3. Screw plaster washers through the ceiling, for larger cracks, and into the wood lath above it, all around the cracks. Apply joint a putty knife, covering the washers. Press a piece of screen material into the compound and remove, then smooth the compound with a trowel. Smooth with 220-grit sandpaper after the compound has dried for 24 hours. Repeat if necessary.
4. Wipe the repairs with a damp sponge to remove any debris from sanding. Finish the ceiling as desired.
Remodeling a basement is fairly straightforward, provided you follow the correct procedures.
If you need to add a rumpus room, home office or workshop to your home, remodeling a basement is a practical way of gaining extra space without altering the roof line by extending your home with an addition. Since most basements have a concrete floor, the tricky part is fixing the partition wall sole plate correctly.
Instructions
1. Locate and mark the position of the floor joists above the basement with an electronic stud finder and pencil if the basement is fitted with a ceiling.
2. Plan the layout. If your partition wall runs parallel to the joists, either position the partition wall so that the head plate can be attached directly to a joist or strip of the ceiling and install 2-x-4 noggins at right angles between the joist, to provide an anchor for the head plate at the desired location; space the noggins on 16-inch centers between joists. Attach the head plate to each individual joist at the location of your choice, if the joists run at right angles to the partition.
3. Measure and mark the location of both ends of the head plate with a steel measuring tape and pencil. Cut a 2-x-4 head plate to size on a miter saw set at 90 degrees.
4. Position the head plate accurately and secure it to the middle joist with the wide face upward. Hammer a single 16D coated sinker nail through the head plate and into the middle joist or into the central noggin, whichever is applicable.
5. Move to the left-hand side and align the head plate at 90 degrees to the side wall with a large builder's square. Once aligned, secure the head plate to the end joist with two 16D coated sinker nails. Move to the other end of the head plate, align the plate with the square and secure it to the joist with two nails as described previously. Repeat by securing the head plate to all remaining joists with two 16D nails in each joist or to the noggins spaced 16 inches apart, whichever is applicable.
6. Drop a plumb line down to floor level from one side of the head plate at each end and mark the sole plate position on the floor with a felt-tip pen. Snap an accurate chalk line between the two marks to act a reference point.
7. Align the edge of the sole plate with the chalk line. Drill a through the center of the sole plate and into the concrete floor, 2 inches from the left end with a hammer drill fitted with a 3/16-inch masonry bit. Push the sole plate to one side and enlarge the floor pilot hole with a masonry bit sized to accommodate a 3/8-inch concrete anchor.
8. Insert a concrete anchor into the prepared hole, enlarge the pilot hole in the sole plate and snug the sole plate to the floor with a masonry anchor bolt and socket wrench, without overtightening.
9. Move to the other end of the sole plate and anchor it loosely to the floor as described before; you may have to undo the anchor bolt on the far end after drilling your 3/16-inch pilot hole. Once the right-hand anchor is installed, secure both ends of the sole plate to the floor with anchor bolts.
10. Mark the stud positions on the sole plate spaced apart on 16-inch centers; you may have to adjust the gap between the two end studs so that the central studs are 16 inches apart. If you intend to add an intervening door to the partition, position a suitable door frame in the required place between two studs and attach a second stud to the outside of the frame to turn it into a "king" stud. Add a couple of evenly spaced "cripple" studs above the frame header when securing the studs to the head and sole plates in a later step.
11. Measure the distance between the head plate and the sole plate with a steel measuring tape. Add 1/16 inch to this measurement, transfer the measurement to sections of 2-x-4 lumber and cut a suitable number of studs to size on a miter saw set at 90 degrees; the extra 1/16 inch will allow you to wedge the studs firmly between the sole and head plates prior to nailing.
12. Attach the end studs to the adjacent walls with 16D nails into suitable noggins or studs located with the stud finder. Drive two nails between the stud and sole/header joints at a 45-degree angle from the room side of the studs.
13. Position the remaining studs between the head and sole plates by wedging them into place. Once positioned, place a long spirit level vertically against the stud, center the bubble by tapping the bottom of the stud either way with a hammer and secure the stud to the sole plate with two opposing 16d nails hammered into both sides of the stud and into the sole plates at a 45-degree angle.
14. Secure the studs to the head plate by repeating the steps described before.
15. Brace the studs with three horizontal 16-inch-long 2-x-4 noggins spaced evenly apart between the studs on each evenly spaced gap. Stagger noggins evenly between the opposing noggins in the odd-spaced gaps; secure the noggins to the studs with two opposing 16D nails driven in at a 45-degree angle. If applicable, secure the door frame to the studs with three pairs of 16D nails on both sides of the frame and across the door header noggin.
16. Finish the wall by cladding both sides with drywall panels secured to the studs with drywall screws and a cordless power screwdriver; butt each horizontal and vertical joint firmly together without leaving gaps. Cover the joints by taping and floating drywall tape to the joints with drywall compound and a drywall float.
17.Smooth all joints down with sandpaper and a sanding block after the drywall compound has dried; your partition wall is now ready for a coat of paint.
Tags: head plate, sole plate, plate with, partition wall, pilot hole, studs with, 45-degree angle
A leaking bathroom sink trap can damage the vanity in which it is installed.
A bathroom vanity will not last long if the sink trap beneath the vanity is damaged and leaking. Water from the trap will infiltrate the vanity, causing rust, rot and eventually the failure of the vanity. In this situation, replacing the is essential. Sink traps typically use compression fittings and rings to form a watertight seal between the tailpiece leading from the sink drain and the drain pipe in the wall. Replacing the old trap is as simple as unscrewing the fittings on the old trap and attaching the new one.
Instructions
1. Place a bucket under the old trap to catch any water that may spill to keep the vanity dry. Unscrew the compression fittings from the old sink trap. Slide the fittings and compression rings away from the threads on the trap. Remove the trap. Allow any water to fall into the bucket and place the old trap in the bucket.
2. Remove the old compression fitting from the tailpiece attached to the drain in the sink.
3. Unscrew the threaded compression fitting and ring from the straight side of the new sink trap. Place the compression fitting with the threads facing downward, then the compression ring onto the tailpiece.
4. Slip the straight side of the sink trap on the tailpiece. Slide the compression ring, then the compression fitting down onto the threads on the end of the sink trap, and tighten the .
5. Unscrew the compression fitting on the curved end of the sink trap. Slide the compression fitting and the down onto the sink trap.
6. Loosen the first compression fitting slightly to align the curved end of the sink trap with the curved fitting attached to the drainpipe in the wall.
7. Slide the second compression ring and compression fitting onto the threaded end on the pipe. Screw on both compression fittings tightly.
If you love Valentine's Day, decorate your home to celebrate the holiday. Make an effort to put a bit of decoration in each room, including the bathroom. If you're excited for the holiday and want a little extra love spread to the powder room, there are ways that you can decorate it without a lot of time or money.
Instructions
1. Put a heart wreath on the inside of the door. Many people leave their bathroom doors open when not in use, so the front of the door may rarely be seen. When someone is in the bathroom she has a view of the inside of the door. A simple wreath in the shape of a heart adds a beautiful touch to the room. There are several options to choose from, including ones made up of dried flowers or heart garland.
2. Replace your regular hand soaps with those that are heart shaped. They add a nice touch for Valentine's Day and can still continue to be used after the holiday is over. Choose colors to match the rest of the color scheme in your bathroom instead of worrying about them just being red and white.
3. Put a vase filled with faux roses on the side of the tub. It adds a romantic touch. Top the vase off with a large red ribbon tied around it and it's ready for Valentine's Day.
4. Change your shower curtain, bath mat and toilet seat cover. Choose a set that is off-white, which will most likely go well with any type of décor that you have in your bathroom already. The white works well with the Valentine's Day decorations and will complement them.
5. Replace your regular towels with those that have simple embellishments on them. Consider getting off-white towels that have a single rose on each one, which will add the elements of Valentine's Day without being too over the top.
Tags: that have, inside door, Replace your, Replace your regular, those that
It's important to measure the space above your bathroom mirror to ensure a proper fit.
A bathroom vanity isn't complete without a light over it. It's important to choose not only proper lighting that helps you see while applying make-up, styling your hair or shaving, but also lighting that fits properly over the mirror. A light that is too large can cause a glare and one that is too small will not properly illuminate the room or your face.
Instructions
1. Measure the width of the mirror and write the measurement down.
2. Measure the space between the mirror and the ceiling. If it isn't a large space, you must be certain that there is room for the fixture. Most light bars require at least 6 inches between the top of the mirror and the ceiling for proper installation.
3. Strike a line with a pencil about 2 inches above the mirror, across the top. Strike another line, parallel and above the first, to indicate where you will place the light bar.
4. Measure your light bar and make sure it isn't too long for the mirror or too wide for the space between the mirror and the ceiling.
Tags: between mirror, between mirror ceiling, mirror ceiling, lighting that, space between, space between mirror
Replacing recessed lights to add a different look and feel to your ceiling sometimes requires different sized holes. Ideally you want fixtures that use the same hole you currently have in the ceiling. Unfortunately the lights you like are often either larger or smaller. Replacing recessed lighting with different sized holes requires either cutting the hole larger or rebuilding the hole and cutting a new one. Once you have the holes sized correctly, install the new fixtures according to the manufacturer's instructions.
Instructions
1. Turn off the power to the recessed lights. Turn on the light switch to ensure the power is off to the lights. If you have attic access to the light fixture junction boxes, go into the attic and check for voltage with a voltage tester.
2. Remove the trim from the recessed lighting. Some fixtures have screws requiring a screwdriver for removal, while others simply twist or pull off the ceiling. Remove the bulb from the current fixture.
3. Disassemble the recessed light fixture from the ceiling. If you have access to the attic, disconnect the wires at the junction box and remove the fixture from the mounting supports with a screwdriver. If you do not have attic access, pull the fixture through the ceiling and disconnect the wires at the wire nuts once they are visible. Refer to the instructions that come with the original lights for specifics if possible.
4. Place the opening of the new recessed lighting fixture over the existing hole, if the fixture is larger than the existing hole. Center the fixture over the hole and trace around it with a pencil. Cut the hole to the tracing with a drywall saw.
5. Position a piece of notebook paper over the hole, if the new fixture is smaller than the . Make a tracing of the hole onto the paper with a pencil. You are able to see the outline of the hole through the paper.
6. Put the paper on a piece of scrap drywall and draw the tracing onto the drywall. Cut the tracing on the drywall with a hole saw.
7. Cut two pieces of 1-by-2-inch board slightly larger than the circumference of the original hole with a circular saw. Place a board inside the hole in the ceiling with at least a 1/2 inch of the side of the board visible in the hole. Repeat for the opposite side of the hole. Measure between the visible sides of the board with a tape measure to ensure there is enough room for the new fixture.
8. Drive two 2-inch drywall screws through the ceiling and into the boards. Place the cut out drywall hole into the hole in the ceiling. Drive a drywall screw through the hole and into the part of the board that overlaps the hole. Repeat for the opposite side.
9. Apply drywall mud to the seam between the new piece of drywall and the ceiling with a putty knife. Tape over the mud with drywall tape and add another layer of mud. Allow the mud to dry and sand it smooth with a sanding block.
10. Place the new fixture opening over the center of the new piece of ceiling drywall and trace the outline. Cut the new hole with the drywall saw. Install the recessed light fixtures according to the instructions that come with the fixtures. Paint the ceiling around the patch with the same color as the rest of the ceiling.
Tags: existing hole, recessed lighting, with drywall, attic access, ceiling with
Light fixtures that use chain-pull switches are usually found in basements, attics and closets. When the chain pulls out of the switching device, the replacement of the switch is necessary. Chain-pull operated lighting has a dedicated electrical power supply wired directly to the fixture without an in-line switch installed. Because of the dedicated circuit, the light may be on all the time or off. Either way, you can repair the broken chain-pull fixture with a few tools, materials and basic electrical wiring know-how.
Instructions
1. Turn the circuit breaker that supplies power to the light circuit to the "Off" position at the main panel. Mark the breaker to notify others of the work being done.
2. Remove the globe that encloses the bulb if one exists. The globes are usually held in place by three or four thumbscrews.
3. Remove the screws that hold the fixture in place with the appropriate screwdriver. Position a stepladder constructed of non-metallic materials as needed for the work.
4. Allow the fixture to be suspended by the electrical wires. Remove the two wire nuts from the switch wires taking care not to touch the bare wires.
5. Test the wiring with a voltage tester to verify that no power exists. Touch one probe of the tester to the black hot wire and the other to the white neutral wire.
6. Turn the switch chain guide cap on the outside of the fixture counterclockwise and remove it. This will release the pull from the fixture.
7. Disconnect the two pull chain switch wires. One wire is connected to the black hot wire from the power supply and the other is connected to the light socket wire.
8. Remove the old pull chain switch from the fixture.
9. Insert the chain of the new switch through the hole on the side of the fixture followed by the threads of the switch itself. Place the chain guide nut over the chain and onto the threads of the switch. Tighten the nut clockwise by hand.
10. Connect the black wire from the to either of the two wires from the pull chain switch with a wire nut. Tighten the nut clockwise by hand.
11. Connect the wire from the light socket to the remaining wire on the pull chain switch with a wire nut. Tighten the wire nut clockwise.
12. Push the wires back into the ceiling electrical box. Secure the fixture screws to the box with a screwdriver. Tighten clockwise.
13. Install a new light bulb into the light socket and replace the globe if applicable.
14. Attach a longer chain or string to a suitable length as needed. Ball chains use snap-on connectors that are available at your local hardware store or home center.
15. Restore power to the light circuit and remove all markings from the breaker.
Tags: chain switch, pull chain, pull chain switch, black wire, light socket, power supply
Design the bathroom of your dreams virtually with an online program or purchased software.
Designing a virtual bathroom can be almost as enjoyable as designing a bathroom in real life. Although you won't be able to shower or brush your teeth in your virtual bathroom, you can create an ideal space that can be saved, printed, and maybe in the future come to life. A free option is to design your bathroom online; a more expensive way is to purchase interior design computer software and create your bathroom using the design tools provided with the program.
Instructions
1. Choose an online program that will allow you to create your virtual free of charge. Consider a program like Arrange-a-Room from the Ladies Home Journal website (lhj.com/style/decorating/easy/arrange-a-room/). You will need to install the Shockwave plug-in for this program as well as any other interactive online design program. With this type of program, you can choose from a variety of bathroom layout templates. You can pick out wall color, floor color, and furniture arrangements. Another free option is Google SketchUp (sketchup.google.com). Google Sketchup allows its users to create 3D home designs from scratch. This programs requires a bit more time and effort to master. If you are a novice designer with little knowledge about to-scale sketching or 3D design, expect to spend a few hours learning the ins-and-outs of a program like SketchUp.
2. Purchase an interior design computer software program. Consider a basic program from a company like Punch Software. Punch Software offers a program called Home and Landscape Design in which users can design and decorate the interiors of their virtual homes. Use a bathroom design template or start from scratch when choosing floor finishes, wall colors, sinks, tubs, fixtures, wall art, and accessories. Use the drag and drop feature to add in and manage elements from the design toolbox. Expect to pay around $50 for a Punch Software program. For the more experienced designer, consider a program from a company like Chief Architect. Chief Architect programs are more expensive (up to $2,000), but provide professional quality designs. They offer 2D and 3D design projects in which users can create the ideal bathroom to scale.
3. Design your virtual bathroom. Use your free online program or your purchased software program to create the bathroom you've always dreamed of. Select flooring, a sink, a tub, a shower, wall coverings, lighting, and architectural details. Add windows and doors, crown molding, and other accessories. Be creative with your design decisions and make a space you'll enjoy every day.
Tags: your virtual bathroom, online program, Punch Software, virtual bathroom, your virtual, bathroom design