Recommended Staplers For Ceiling Tiles

In common with most home projects, preparation is key to well-fitted ceiling tiles.

The majority of ceiling tiles on the market are made from fiberboard: cane or waste-wood fibers pressed with a chemical binding agent into flat panels. By virtue of their less than dense nature, they are relatively light for their size, and this also makes them easy to staple through. The substrate -- the material to which the tiles are to be stapled -- is what dictates how powerful the stapler must be.

Attachment Methods

Adhesion and stapling are the most common methods of ceiling tile attachment. Adhesives can only be used when the substrate is smooth and sound across the entire area to be tiled. For less than ideal situations, including exposed joists, furring strips are fastened to the substrate with shims, if necessary, to even out the surface. Furring strips are made from straight-grained soft woods, typically fur, pine or spruce, and these are a major factor in terms of stapler choice.

Ceiling Tile Staples

Special staples are designed for ceiling tiles. The blades on each end of the staple face in opposite directions so that when they pass through the wood, they flare out. This gives them tremendous holding power -- they are hanging upside-down and defying gravity -- without an insertion pressure so great that they pass through the relatively unresisting tile material. Typically, little more than 1/2-inch in length and manufactured to a standard width, they will fit into almost every stapler on the market.

Choosing the Stapler

Because furring strips are made from soft woods and ceiling staples are so short, the staplers used to attach the tiles do not need to be particularly strong. Power staplers are unnecessary; a regular hand-held device is entirely adequate. That said, the installer may wish to use a powered machine to minimize fatigue. Use three equally-spaced staples through each edge of a tile that abuts a furring strip. One staple should be in each corner, the third in the center of each edge.

Recommended Staplers

Numerous companies manufacture staplers that accept ceiling tiles and are strong enough to fasten them into furring strips. Typical of the handheld machines is the Arrow T50 Elite, which has an ergonomic design that delivers 60 percent more power than alternative models through an "easy-squeeze" design. The machine accepts six different staple sizes, including those sized for ceiling tiles. Typical of the powered machines is the Stanley electric staple, brad and nail gun. This has a high-low driving power switch to accommodate stapling into both hard and softer substrates, a specially-contoured nose for stapling right into corners and accepts staples sized for ceiling tiles.

Method

Install the furring strips cross-wise to the preexisting joists; center to center, the furring strips must be the exact width of the ceiling tiles apart. It is bad practice to start tiling one wall then cutting the opposite border row when you reach the opposite end; if cuts must be made, they should be made at both walls so that the partial rows match. Measure the length and width of the room and divide the measurements by the size of the tile then calculate how wide the border rows must be. Snap a chalk line to give you the starting place for one border row, cut the tiles to size then staple them into place. Work across the room with full rows until you reach the far wall, where the other partial row is fitted.

Tags: furring strips, ceiling tiles, ceiling tiles, made from, each edge, less than

Mount A Projection Screen In A Dropped Ceiling

A dropped ceiling affords an opportunity to mount a remote-controlled projection screen that tucks neatly away when not in use. On the other hand, it also allows for permanently mounting a projection screen if creating a home theatre screening room. Take note of the light surrounding the screen and the area from which the image projects and minimize as much as possible. With a few tools, this is a project the avid do-it-yourselfer can complete and save money in the process.

Instructions

1. Cut a piece of 3/4-inch plywood that is the same size as the screen's mounting bracket using a table saw.

2. Set the mounting bracket on top of the plywood and mark the locations of the screw holes with a pencil. Use a power drill to make the marked holes and drive the threaded rods all the way through the holes until the heads of the rods are touching the wood.

3. Remove the dropped ceiling tiles in the location where you want to install the screen and attach the plywood to the joists directly above with a power drill and screws. The rods should be pointing downward when you attach the plywood.

4. Drill holes in the removed ceiling tiles in order to allow the threaded rods through for a permanent mounting. Reset the tiles back into the ceiling frame. If mounting a retractable screen, reconfigure the tiles for leaving a permanent slot the width of the screen.

5. Slide the mounting bracket over the threaded rods and slip a washer over each rod. Tighten the bracket against the ceiling tile using a nut on each of the rods and secure the nuts with a wrench.

6. Hang the projection screen from the mounting bracket and use the included hardware to attach them together.

Tags: mounting bracket, threaded rods, attach plywood, ceiling tiles, dropped ceiling

Decorating The Ceiling For A Party

Hang colorful materials from the ceiling to pull together the party decor.

Using ceiling decorations can bring your party space together for a creative, polished look. Even if your party doesn't have a specific theme, choose a color scheme to incorporate in your decorations. The colors you choose don't have to match the rest of the decorations, but they should complement the other elements and make the room pop. Decorative go-to items could include streamers, balloons and colorful fabric panels; pin or tape these to the ceiling.

Instructions

1. Inflate your balloons. Save time by using helium balloons; these will float up to the ceiling, so you won't have to attach them. You can quickly inflate them in a party store or at home using a helium tank. Otherwise, ask family or friends to blow up the balloons. Tie the ends with a piece of fishing line or colorful ribbon and attach them to the ceiling using masking tape or pushpins.

2. Measure the length of your ceiling. Use scissors to cut strips of crepe paper if they are longer than your ceiling. Use these to make colorful streamers to hang from wall to wall. Create a draping effect by attaching each strip end to either side of the room; then, pin or tape the halfway point of each strip to the ceiling. Another option is to simply allow the strips of crepe paper streamers to hang vertically from the ceiling, attaching only one end with pins or tape and leaving the rest to dangle.

3. Cut panels of fabric with your scissors to cover empty areas of the ceiling. The size and style of these panels is up to you; possible ideas include assembling square tiles of different fabrics on the ceiling to create checkerboard effect, or twisting long rectangular fabric panels to create a garland.

Tags: attach them, crepe paper, each strip, fabric panels, from ceiling, streamers hang, strips crepe

Bathroom Lighting Placement Ideas

Bathroom lighting placement serves a variety of purposes.

Bathrooms offer a variety of lighting placement options that range from the floor, up the walls, and to the ceiling. Each location casts light for different purposes so that you can make the most of your bathroom space.

In the Floor

Placing small lights or LED lights in a bathroom floor or along the vertical rise of a bathroom step creates a constant, subtle glow in the room. This lighting technique casts proper light onto steps to enhance safety and acts as a nightlight. If your bathroom doubles as a relaxation room, lights in the floor create a soothing ambiance because they are not overpowering and bright.

Under the Cabinets

You can also place lights under bathroom cabinets or vanities in the toe space. This light placement serves many of the same purposes as lights placed in the floor, but you cannot see these under-cabinet lights, just their glow. You can use under-cabinet lighting as a nightlight to avoid stubbing your toe on sharp edges.

Near the Mirror

Placing lights near the mirror helps supply you with appropriate lighting for daily rituals such as applying makeup, shaving or brushing your teeth. Lights installed beside the mirror aligned closely with your face minimize shadowing better than lights above the mirror. Light placement over mirrors is a good option if there is not space on either side of a mirror. You can test different wattages in an overhead fixture to find which lighting suits your needs.

In the Ceiling

You can install recessed lighting into the bathroom ceiling to cover more bathroom space with light. Recessed lights give you the freedom to highlight certain areas of your bathroom by casting it with overhead light. You can place this light feature over showers, bathtubs, sitting areas and sinks. Using a recessed light over a mirror takes some planning because it can cause intense shadowing if not placed properly. The easiest way to reduce or eliminate shadowing is to have a light illuminate your face directly by placing lights along the sides of a mirror. Placing recessed lights in the ceiling in front of where you stand for the mirror and reflecting it onto your face is better than installing them directly over the top of your head.

Tags: your bathroom, your face, bathroom space, better than, lighting placement

Calculate Building Materials

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When figuring a job for construction, a few formulas will help you complete a successful project. With a little practice, you will be an ace at building material calculations.

Instructions

Calculate Building Materials

1. Calculate the concrete. Most building projects that begin from the ground up must start with concrete. Multiply the length by width by height of the base, then divide that number by 27. This will tell you the needed concrete in cubic yards.

2. Calculate the 2-by-4 lumber for framing walls. Convert the entire length of the wall being constructed into inches (feet multiplied by 12). Now, divide the length in inches by 16. This will give you the number of 2-by-4s needed for one wall.

3. Calculate wall sheathing. Multiply the length of the wall by height to get the square feet of the wall surface. Since most sheathing (plywood, drywall, paneling) comes in 4-by-8-foot sheets, take the square feet of one sheet (32) and use it to divide the square feet of the wall. This will equal the number of 4-by-8 sheets to cover the wall.

4. Calculate framing and decking for a roof. Divide the entire length of the roof by 2 feet to find out how many rafters you'll need to frame the roof. For the decking, multiply the length by the width of the roof, convert to inches and divide by 32, the square feet of one sheet of plywood. This will equal the number of plywood sheets you'll need.

5. Calculate shingles or other roofing material. Three bundles of shingles equal one square of shingles. One square of shingles equals 100 square feet. So multiply the length by the width of the roof and divide that number by 100. This will give you the amount of material in squares needed for roofing. To convert into bundles, multiply that number by three.

Tags: square feet, This will, length width, that number, Building Materials, Calculate Building

Nail Wood Planks To The Ceiling

Nail Wood Planks to the Ceiling

Wood planks are a great way to dress up a shabby old ceiling, and they're made to install so easily today that any competent homeowner can do it. Unlike wood floor installation, they don't require specialized tools-just a few standard ones, and a trim nailer. The planks are milled to attach to each other at the sides with a tongue-and-groove system, and are made of very lightweight wood. Buy boards long enough to span almost any ceiling, so you don't have to worry about lining up the ends.

Instructions

1. Find all the ceiling joists, using your electronic stud locator to pinpoint them and then marking the positions with your pencil. Extend the marks across the ceiling with your level, so you'll know exactly where you can nail the planks.

2. Measure the ceiling along the wall where you're going to start, running perpendicular to the joists.

3. Cut a ceiling plank to the length you measured with your miter saw. Hold the plank on the ceiling, positioned so the grooved side faces the wall. Leave a 3/8-inch gap between the edge of the board and the wall, to allow the wood to expand. Ceiling trim will cover this gap later.

4. Shoot nails through the face of the plank with your trim nailer, putting two nails at each point where the plank crosses a joist.

5. Measure and cut the next plank to size. Set it against the edge of the first one, locking the tongue of the second board into the groove of the first one. Attach the second piece by shooting a nail at an upward angle through the side at each point where the plank crosses a joist, so the nail hole isn't visible on the face of the board.

6. Hang the rest of the planks in the same manner as the second one, cutting them, locking them together, and shooting nails through the sides. Do the whole ceiling except the final piece.

7. Split the last piece lengthwise on your table saw so there's a 3/8-inch gap left at the wall. Face-nail it as you did the first board.

Tags: with your, crosses joist, each point, each point where, Nail Wood, Nail Wood Planks, nails through

Design A Master Bathroom Floor Plan

By drawing out a floor plan, you can determine how a room will be put together before it's built.

A bathroom is the most private place in the house, so its design should cater to the owner's specific wants and needs. However, these are not the only things to consider. Along with these preferences, there are a number of code regulations that must be followed, as well as a number of recommendations that will help you in the designing of your master bathroom.

Instructions

1. Decide on a scale for your floor plan. Two possible scales are 1 inch equals 1 foot and 1 centimeter equals 1 foot. Use a scale that is appropriate for the size of your bathroom and the paper on which you will be drawing the floor plan.

2. Draw a to-scale drawing of the proposed bathroom. A full-size master bathroom needs to accommodate a shower and toilet at the bare minimum. You will add to-scale drawings of the fixtures that will go in your bathroom; the shapes of the fixtures do not need to be accurate, they only need to give you a sense of the space they will take up.

3. Place the doorway in a spot where it will have minimal interference. The entryway should be at least 34 inches wide. Per building code, all bathrooms must also have a minimum floor-to-ceiling height of 80 inches.

4. Place the fixtures in your bathroom with a recommended 30 inches from the front edge of each fixture to the next fixture, wall or obstacle. Per code, any toilet needs a minimum of 21 inches of free space in front of it and any shower entrance needs a minimum of 24 inches of free space in front of it. The toilet must also be placed with a minimum distance of 15 inches between the wall and its center line.

5. Place at least one wall-mounted switch for a switch-controlled light near the bathroom entrance, per code. Also, place at least one GFCI-protected electrical receptacle within 36 inches of the bathroom (this can be outside of the bathroom).

6. Add any vanities or other fixtures to your liking, again taking into account the recommended 30 inches of free space in front of each fixture.

7. Continue to move the fixtures around until you find a layout that suits your needs and desires.

Tags: floor plan, free space, free space front, inches free, inches free space

Cut Outside Crown Molding

Crown molding adds charm and elegance to a kitchen. With staggered cabinets it will add even more charm to the kitchen. The crown molding covers the top of the upper cabinets. You can use stain-grade crown molding made from one piece of wood in the species of your choice. Paint-grade is made of several pieces of glued wood. The do-it-yourself handyman can cut inside and outside corners in crown molding.

Instructions

1. Measure the first piece of crown molding to the first corner that you come to. The majority of corners are outside miter joint corners. Use a digital angle finder to measure the corner. Place one arm on each surface of the corner. The angle finder will display the entire angle of the corner. Write this angle down on a piece of paper.

2. Determine the angle needed from the "Miter Saw" chart from the Resources below, which will give you the two angles to set the miter saw at to create an accurate fitting miter joint.

3. Cut a pair of 12-inch long pieces of crown molding. Use a tape measure and the miter saw set to 90 degrees to produce two pieces of test molding.

4. Place one piece of the test molding on the miter saw. When you cut crown molding on a miter saw the molding is placed upside down. Place the back of the bottom side against the saw fence. Place the back of the top of the crown molding flat against the table of the saw. Adjust the miter saw stops to hold the crown molding in place. Turn the knob to adjust the miter saw stops so that the crown molding cannot move.

5. Cut the crown molding slowly to reduce the likelihood of the wood splintering, which will create a test piece of crown molding. Rotate the miter saw to the opposite angle, and cut the second piece of test molding.

6. Test the fit of the crown molding. Dry fit the two pieces of test molding in the corner. Place the test molding against the wall and ceiling, and check the fit of the miter joint. If the joint is not perfect, adjust the miter saw one degree, re-cut the miter joints and test fit them again. Repeat this step until you have a perfect fitting miter joint.

7. Start working at the left side of the cabinets. Measure the length of straight cabinet up to the first corner, which is the inside dimension of the bottom of the crown molding. Add 1/8 inch to all dimensions. After you rough cut the piece to length, it will allow you to hold the piece of crown molding in position and mark the exact length on it with a pencil for a perfect fit.

8. Cut the crown molding at the angles you found in the last step to produce the outside miter joint for the crown molding.

Tags: crown molding, crown molding, miter joint, test molding, crown molding

Decorating Ideas For Blue Tiles In A Bathroom

A versatile material for any bathroom is tile. Whether you stick to a budget and choose a material like ceramic or go with expensive granite, there is no end to the creative look you can give your space. Blue tiles work exceptionally well in a bathroom, simply because the color is soothing and emulates water -- which is prevalent in a bathroom. There are a variety of ways you can incorporate blue tile into the space and pair it with different materials and colors for a custom look.

Contrast with White

Paint the walls with a blue-based white paint to contrast with blue tile to give the room a 'cool' palette. Create a crisp-looking environment by using white accessories around the room to balance the blue tile. Choose white towels, fixtures, rugs and shower curtain in pure white to decorate the bathroom.

Multi-Colored Tile

Mix various shades of blue tiles together to create a dimensional look in the bathroom. Stagger tiles in shades of light, medium and dark blue to mimic the look of shimmering water on the walls. Use 1-inch tiles in the shower, as a backsplash or on the floor to create a mosaic. Keep the color of the tiles cohesive by choosing your favorite blue tile and pairing it with tiles one shade lighter and one shade darker.

Mix Tile and Wood

Pair blue tile with white wainscoting on walls in the bathroom. Wainscoting is traditional wood paneling, usually just on the lower part of the wall. Complement the clean white wainscoting by pairing it with blue floor tile or blue shower tiles. Paint the upper part of the walls with the blue-tinged, cool-based white paint, which will offer a subtle contrast to the white wainscoting.

Pair with Color

Dangers Of Halogen Light Bulbs

Halogen light bulbs offer energy and cost savings over traditional incandescent bulbs, but not without risks. Halogen bulbs burn at temperatures far higher than traditional bulbs. This can create hazards if the bulbs are not used properly. Families, especially those with small children and pets, should take note of the risks.

Halogen lamp

Characteristics

Halogen light bulbs are similar in design to traditional incandescents, except that the gas sealed inside the bulb includes a halogen, such as iodine. The halogen significantly extends the life of the tungsten filament -- it lasts about four times longer than traditional bulbs -- and allows it to burn much hotter and brighter with the same energy input.

Fire Danger

According to Pacific Gas and Electric, a halogen light bulb can heat up to 700 to 1,100 degrees Fahrenheit. Any flammable material coming into contact with such heat can burst into flames in a matter of seconds. In research done by New York State Consumer Protection Board, it took 24 seconds for a T-shirt to ignite after coming into contact with a halogen light bulb.

Misconception

Many people mistakenly believe that the wire casing that covers the halogen light bulb will prevent fires. In fact, the wire gets hot enough to ignite a fire if a material such as a blowing curtain comes in contact with it. The wire is there mostly to protect the bulb from damage.

Common Danger

Pole-style floor lamps are the biggest source of fires linked to halogen bulbs. These lamps leave the bulb exposed on top. Billowing curtains, falling leaves from house plants, and papers blown down from shelves above can land on top of such lamps and catch fire.

Considerations

If a child or pet knocks over a halogen lamp that is turned on, it can start a fire instantly. The bulbs can also cause severe burns if touched The New York State Consumer Protection Board issued a warning asking all households with children and pets to get rid of halogen lamps.

Tags: contact with, halogen light, halogen light bulb, light bulb, York State Consumer

Paint Glossy Wood Paneling

Painted-over dark brown 25-year-old glossy wood paneling.

Painting over glossy wood paneling will save you time and money versus removing it, which includes repair, and sometimes even replacement of the drywall under it, in order to end up with a smooth, paintable surface. The construction of this type of paneling is pressed board with a vinyl-like finish, and is normally glued and nailed onto drywall.

Painting over the paneling will offer a beautiful look in your choice of color and finish, such as flat, eggshell or semi-gloss.

Instructions

1. Wash down the paneling thoroughly with a cleaning solution that will remove stains and oils that have built up over time. Paneling should be absolutely clean.

2. Tap down any nail heads sticking above the panel surface using a nail tap and hammer, then fill over with spackle. Also fill in any scars or cuts found on the paneling. You may also apply spackle into the corners where the panels meet each other and also between any sheets of paneling that may have gaps. Now is also a good time to add finish nails if the paneling is not as stable and flush as it should be to the wall under it. As an option you may also fill in all the vertical seams on the paneling with spackle if you want to eliminate them, but this will entail much more spackling and sanding. It is common to leave the seams evident.

3. Sand over any areas to which you applied spackle to a smooth finish using your sheet sandaper or flexible block sander.

4. Tape off all areas around the paneling you do not want to paint, such as along baseboards and the ceiling edge. Also lay out your painters' drop cloth on the floor below the panels to be primed and painted.

5. Stir the primer well, and put on a face-mask if it is oil-based, so as not to inhale the fumes. Then, using your paint brush apply the primer over all the vertical seams on the paneling, and also use your brush for priming the edges and into the corners of the panels that your paint roller will not reach.

6. Roll out the primer completely over the paneling and allow sufficient time to dry. Oil-based primer will take longer than water based. One good coat of primer is normally sufficient, even though it may not appear to dry evenly. The key is not to miss any areas with the first coat. No harm in a second coating.

7. Stir your paint and then apply with your brush along all edges and into the corners, the same as with the primer, and then roll the paint over the paneling, covering it completely.

8. Apply a second coat of paint after the first one has dried, typically within 30 minutes. When using quality paint, two coats will do quite nicely. Remove your masking tape and enjoy your new painted paneling.

Tags: into corners, over paneling, your paint, edges into, edges into corners, glossy wood

Remove Gluedup Ceiling Tiles

Replacing an old, outdated ceiling can update a room. Ceiling tiles come in a range of styles and can attach to the surface with various types of glue. To complete the remodeling project, you may need to remove glued-up ceiling tiles. Finishing the tile removal process is relatively simple and is the first step to a transformed space.

Instructions

1. Cover the area underneath the ceiling with a plastic sheet. Tile removal is a messy process, so protect furniture and flooring as much as possible.

2. Place a ladder in the corner of the room so you can easily reach the ceiling tiles.

3. Stick the edge of a scraper blade in between the cracks of the glued-up tiles. Push it forward in an attempt to scrape the tile free of the ceiling. If it doesn't move, place the scraper back in the crack and use a hammer to gently pound it underneath so you can pry it free.

4. Continue this process until all the tiles are free of the ceiling, moving the ladder so you can comfortably reach each one.

Tags: free ceiling

Seal Engineered Wood Flooring

Seal an engineered wood floor to protect its natural color and texture.

Engineered wood is a restructured composite of wood that has been enhanced for better stability. It is made up of compressed hardwood that can be sanded and renovated just like natural wood. Engineered wood is a common choice for flooring material due to its durable structure and wide variety of textures, colors and cuts. Because it is a surface that is constantly walked upon, engineered wood flooring requires the proper insulation to seal and protect its condition.

Instructions