Friday, December 31, 2010

Tin Ceiling Tile Projects

Tin ceilings create a distinctive look.


Popular in the 19th century because of their availability, lightness and durability, tin ceiling tiles are making a comeback. You can purchase tiles at local hardware stores or on Web sites, or check out yard sales to find old tin tiles for the shabby chic look. One of the best things about tin ceiling tile is that it's inexpensive, costing $4 and up, sometimes less at yard sales. Although many enjoy tin ceilings, today's designers are finding other uses for tin tiles, such as to create a border on a wall, a distinctive back splash in the kitchen, or an artistic headboard for the bedroom.


Back Splash


Tiles come in a variety of sizes, so it's important to decide what size you want, and to measure out how many tiles you'll need for the job. Other needed materials include tin snips, adhesive, caulk gun, and caulk the color of the tiles, because tin ceiling tiles come in a variety of colors, such as copper, gold and silver. You'll also want to wear gloves, because the tin may be sharp.


Use the tin snips to cut tiles to size. It's a good idea to use chalk or a pencil to trace a grid on the wall for even placement. After tracing, apply adhesive to the back of the tiles. Start at one end of the back splash area, placing the tiles one row at a time, or from the center of the wall out; overlap the tiles after placing the first row. After placing the tiles, place a drop of caulk at the seams and smooth with your finger. Wipe with a damp cloth, then a dry cloth, to eliminate excess caulk. Next, apply clear lacquer or polyurethane to the tiles. If painting them instead, use a bonding primer first, then apply oil-based paint to allow the paint to adhere to the metal.








Headboard


Measure the area of the wall where you want the headboard and purchase enough tiles for the job. Use a drill bit suitable for metal and drill small holes on the edges of the tiles. Hold the tiles against the wall and mark with a pencil through the holes onto the wall. With an awl and hammer, drill pilot holes where the wall is marked. Nail the tiles in place.


Wall Border


Tin ceiling tiles come in a variety of colors, sizes and designs, which makes them perfect for using as wall borders, which generally start at ceiling level or floor/baseboard level. Again, measure the wall area you want to cover and purchase tiles accordingly. Trim the tiles if necessary, then apply adhesive to the tiles and place on the wall.

Tags: ceiling tiles, come variety, tiles place, apply adhesive, back splash, ceiling tiles come
at

Remove Popcorn Texture From A Ceiling

Remove Popcorn Texture From a Ceiling


The following article will show you effectively remove popcorn texture from your ceiling. Many modern day home owners desire a smooth surface ceiling or one that is textured in something other than popcorn texture which became very popular in the 70's. You can do this yourself and save a load of money - it just takes some time and lots of elbow grease.


Instructions


1. Please keep in mind before you start that your ceiling material should be tested for asbestos if you currently have popcorn texture and your home is an older home. You can find certified asbestos professionals that will come collect it and send the sample off for testing in the yellow pages under "Asbestos - Consulting and Testing" or call the EPA at 202-554-1404. If your ceiling is found to contain asbestos, do not touch it, leave it alone! You will need to go another route.


2. Also, if your popcorn texture has been painted, you are going to have a more difficult time removing it.








3. Begin by removing all furniture and other items from your room. This is a very messy process and you do not want your personal items covered in debris.








4. Lay out your plastic sheeting to cover the entire floor in your room. Over lay the plastic so that debris scraped from the ceiling will not find it's way between the cracks in the plastic. Use the masking tape to tape each overlayed piece to the other.


5. I prefer starting in the middle of a room so that I can work my way easily into corners. With this in mind, place your ladder in the center of the room.


6. Put on your mask and gloves. Put hot water in the plastic squirt bottle and place the nozzle where it will spray a mist. Get your scraper. Step up onto the ladder at a comfortable height to reach the ceiling.


7. Spray enough mist on an area of the ceiling to make it easy to scrape off. You should not soak the area but the mist should be applied fairly heavily. You may need to let the hot water penetrate the texture for a few minutes before you begin scraping.


8. Do not use the corner edge of the scraper, you could gouge the ceiling that way. Use enough force and glide the whole flat part of the scraper across the texture angling the scraper downwards slightly.


9. It is not necessary to remove all the under texture. You don't want to get into the tape and bed that joins the ceiling panels. Just go for scraping off the majority of the popcorn texture.


10. Work your way around the room until the project is complete. After the ceiling dries completely, you may want to sand it slightly to prepare it for new texturing. If you need to sand, leave the plastic on the floor in place until the sanding process is complete. Otherwise, grab the plastic by one corner and then the next, shaking the debris towards the middle of the plastic and folding each corner in to trap the debris in the middle. Remove the plastic to the garbage.

Tags: popcorn texture, your ceiling, ceiling that, from your, Remove Popcorn, Remove Popcorn Texture, Texture From
at

Thursday, December 30, 2010

Build A Wood Box Beam

Wood beams can add accent to a room


A box beam can be used for decorating when you don't need a solid beam for support. They are lighter, easier to install and less expensive than a solid beam of comparable size. Best of all, they can be cut and assembled in a relatively short period of time. By using veneered plywood, you can fabricate a beam with a variety of wood finishes that might be otherwise difficult to find. A few tools, plywood and a basic knowledge of woodworking are all you need to get started.


Instructions


1. Set the rip fence on your table saw for a 6-inch cut.


2. Rip two 6-inch by 8-foot strips from a sheet of plywood with your table saw.


3. Set the rip fence on your table saw for a 5-inch cut.


4. Rip six, 5-inch by 8-foot strips from the remaining plywood.


5. Remove the rip fence from the table saw.








6. Cut four of the 5-inch strips into 5-inch squares. Use the miter gauge on your table saw to get a square cut. Use measuring tape and a pencil to mark one 5-inch cut at a time. These will be used as internal supports for the beam, so it is imperative that they are cut to a uniform square, 5-inch by 5-inch size.


7. Place one 5-inch by 8-foot strip flat on the floor. Run a bead of wood glue along both long edges of the strip.


8. Place the two 6-inch strips, on edge, along either side of the 5-inch strip.


9. Align the ends of all three strips and use a bar clamp on each end to hold the boards in position.


10. Use the hammer to drive a finish nail about every four inches along both glued edges.


11. Measure and mark the inside of the beam at 4-inch intervals.








12. Place a 5-inch square support inside the beam at each mark. The supports should be placed vertically so their edges will make contact with all sides of the beam.


13. Nail the internal supports in position through the side strips with finish nails.


14. Apply a bead of wood glue to the long edges of the remaining 5-inch strip.


15. Slide the strip into the slot remaining on the top of the beam. If all your measurements are correct, it will rest on top of the internal supports and its top will be flush with the edges of the beam's sides.


16. Nail the top strip into position by driving finish nails into the edges of the top through the side strips.


17.Use a nail set to set the heads of the finish nails 1/16 of an inch below the surface of the boards.


18. Apply wood putty to the nail holes and allow it to dry.


19. Sand the putty smooth over the nail holes and you are ready to finish the beam.

Tags: your table, finish nails, internal supports, 5-inch 5-inch, 5-inch 8-foot, 5-inch strip, 8-foot strips
at

Decorate A Large Living Room

Decorate your large living room to showcase the space.


Although your large living room may be the envy of your family and friends, decorating such a space can be a daunting task. Working with and balancing the large space with paint, trim and other decorating techniques can give you a well-grounded, personalized design that works for your lifestyle as well as your home.


Instructions


1. Play with paint colors. While smaller spaces tend to require specific paint schemes in order to not feel too closed in, the freedom to choose whatever strikes your fancy when it comes to painting is one of the perks of having a large living room. Go dark, bold or light and airy; just about any color tone looks good in a large space. Apply two to three coats of your favorite color to each wall, painting off any existing molding, baseboards, window trim or the space between the ceiling and walls for crisp, clean lines.


2. Install crown molding, chair rail, larger baseboards and other types of trim throughout the room. Tall, long, monotone walls in a large space tend to be overwhelming, even when you're looking to maintain that wide-open, expansive feel. Installing trim pieces such as these if the room is currently bare can give the space balance and provide an essential design element. White trim is a classic choice, although you can definitely go for a rich wood tone or even black. Most trim can be installed with construction adhesive and finishing nails, as well as a miter saw and coping saw for creating clean joints.


3. Focus on the windows. Large rooms, without natural lighting, can seem overwhelming. Avoid this issue by making any windows in the room a focal point without blocking the natural light. Quality blinds framed with cloth curtains or draperies can draw the eyes to the outdoors while still giving you privacy as well as light.


4. Arrange the room in sections. Another perk of a large living room is the ability to create several types of useable space in one room. You can form a small nook with comfortable chairs and lamps for reading, an arrangement of sofas or other seating for a conversation area, and a separate space for the television. When you don't have a playroom and your family spends most of their time in the living room, you can delegate one corner for your children's toys so they can be in the same room as everyone without having toys strewn all over the place. For households without children, large living rooms can accommodate a bar, pool table or entertainment items other than a television, without making the living room look like a game room.


5. Utilize various types of lighting throughout the space. A single overhead light in a large living room will do next to nothing to illuminate the space. A collection of table and floor lamps throughout the space coupled with lighted ceiling fans, recessed lights, or both can give the room a cozy feeling and ensure there's always adequate lighting for any activity. If you are not experienced with electrical work, do not install any lighting on your own; instead, hire a professional to prevent injury and damage to the home.


6. Accessorize to taste. Hang your favorite family photos or artwork around the room, add some potted plants to freshen the air and bring some of the outdoors in, and have fun with different design elements -- whether neutral toned, country Americana, Asian-inspired, or anything in between. Depending on the size of the room, you can often opt for larger pieces like sculptures or large potted plants, and bigger-than-normal artwork or wall designs. As with accessorizing any room, take your time and only add things to the room that you absolutely love. Decorating the entire space in one afternoon with matching items throughout can work for some; however, when each piece in such a large space has some sort of meaning or memory, it truly makes your large living room shine.

Tags: living room, large living, large living room, large space, your large
at

Wednesday, December 29, 2010

Design Your Living Room Chairs

This sketch shows a blend of curves and straight lines..


Italian sculptor and chair designer Harry Bertoia once said, "The urge for good design is the same as the urge to go on living." Whether you rock, swivel, or recline in your favorite living room chair, easy comfort and good design work well together. These somewhat subjective qualities invite both symmetry and variety into your living room. It's not just your eyes that want to balance and contrast various design elements such as straight lines and curves with color and texture.Your brain and other senses crave it too.


Instructions


Start with What You Have


1. Measure and draw your living room.


Create a floor plan by measuring the length and width of your living room in feet and inches. Use a metal measuring tape and include doors and windows. Draw the outline of your room on grid paper, with two squares (or approximately 1/2 inch) equal to 1 foot. Include part of your dining room or entrance if they are attached, to get the "big picture."


2. Transfer room and furniture dimensions onto a floor plan.


Measure the existing furniture. Draw free-hand (or with a ruler) the shapes that represent your tables, sofa and chairs, as they are located in the space. On the graph paper, these are simple rectangles, ovals and circles.


3. Create a grouping for social occasions.


Lay the tracing paper on the graph paper and draw the outline of the room again. Redraw your furniture to improve the layout and accommodate new or replacement chairs. Leave at least 24 inches between furniture, and 36 inches for two people to pass each other. Determine how many new chairs will fit on your floor plan and how big they will be, based on the space you have.


Look for Something New








4. Brainstorm for ideas: let your imagination run wild!


Sketch your new chairs as 1 inch to 1 1/2 inch rectangular shapes to represent 24 inch to 36 inch (both width and depth) chairs. Leave extra space behind rocking chairs and around swivel chairs. Take photographs of the furniture you have and print them. Clip out and tag pictures of chairs and fabric in magazines and on-line. Spread everything you have drawn and collected on the sheet of poster board, including your own furniture.


5. Color and shape unite the traditional and contemporary here.


Trace shapes and styles that you like from the collected images. Create new chairs from two or three different designs. Notice the similarities in shape among your choices. Likewise, pay attention to contrast. Use tracing paper and markers (or colored pencils) to draw over and color your designs; play with solids and patterns. What your eye wants to see is even gradations of contrast. The trick is not to go to extremes.


6. Notice the contrast of color, light, texture and detail.








Select your favorites from this collection of new, found and existing furniture. Consider the texture of wood, plastic, metal - even stone. Mix hard and soft materials Metal and mohair is a good example of extreme contrast. A more even gradation is wood and mohair, as is metal and leather. Some chairs have open arms and backs. Document your observations and ideas.


Design the Perfect Chairs


7. Work hands-on for best results.


Prepare your collection of pictures, colors and fabric to be tacked down. Consider their relationship to each other. This sample board is a work in progress. Look for even steps of gradation when contrasting style, color, texture and size. Fasten your images down using a glue stick or double-sided tape for heavier samples. Include your sticky notes.


8. Learn to recognize different styles.


Become a chair expert. Visit showrooms and sit in every chair that appeals to you. Recognize the difference between styles and how they function. Research what people like most about their favorite chairs. Notice details that lend a sculptural look or functional purpose to a design. If you're so inclined, take a woodworking or upholstering course to learn the tricks of the trade.


9. Make your living room feel like your own.


Source your newly designed living room chairs. You can have it built from scratch, modify an existing chair, or purchase "ready made." This can be quite economical if you purchase second-hand or reupholster. Look for shops that will take your ideas and make them a reality. Designers must be flexible. You can give your living room the lift it needs by using your own creativity.

Tags: your living, your living room, living room, floor plan, living room, chairs have, chairs Leave
at

Install A Westinghouse Ceiling Fan

Ceiling fans are relatively easy to install in place of any existing ceiling light or other electrical fixture. Most fan kits come with mounting brackets that are designed to screw onto a standard ceiling electrical box, and the fan then connects to the bracket. You control the power from the same wall switch that controlled the previous fixture.


Instructions


1. Cut the electricity to the existing ceiling fixture at the fuse box. Remove the old fixture by unscrewing the screws holding it to the ceiling electrical box. Disconnect the wires between the fixture and the electrical box so the wires from the box are freely hanging.


2. Attach the mounting bracket from the fan kit to the electrical box using the provided screws. The holes in the bracket should line up with the standard holes in the electrical box.


3. Assemble your Westinghouse fan, minus the blades. Walk it up the ladder, setting it on the top. Use wire caps to connect the black wire from the fan housing to the black wire coming out of the ceiling box. Connect the two white wires in the same fashion. Wrap electrical tape around the connections.


4. Twist the bare grounding wire from the electrical box around the green screw in the fan unit and tighten it.


5. Lift the fan unit up to the mounting bracket and secure it with the provided screws. Turn on the power at the fuse box to test the fan motor and make sure it's properly connected. If it is, turn the power back off and install the fan blades as directed, then turn the power on.

Tags: black wire, ceiling electrical, existing ceiling, from electrical, mounting bracket, provided screws, turn power
at

Tuesday, December 28, 2010

Different Ways To Remodel Bathrooms

Bathroom tile back splash


No bathroom remodel project is one-size-fits-all. Every remodel is different, depending on a homeowner's aesthetic preferences, budget, and the existing conditions. There are many approaches to remodeling a bathroom, without having to gut the room and replace all the fixtures.


Themed Remodels


If you don't want to approach your remodel in a haphazard manner, choose a theme to unify the project. A theme can be a decor style, such as modern, traditional, rustic or country. Or you can take the concept literally, and decorate your bathroom to follow a beach theme or nautical theme, for example. Establishing a theme allows you to be consistent in selecting colors, finishes and decorative touches.


Finish Updates


The most common approach to remodeling a bathroom is to focus on updating the finishes, including the wall tile, counter top, back splash and flooring. To keep the look of your bathroom simple, choose matching materials for all surfaces. However, you might not be able to use the exact same material for every surface, as flooring should be textured to prevent slippage, while wall and counter tiles can be smooth. Another approach is to choose materials that complement each other, such as a soft gray tile for the counter and a dark gray finish for the floor, for example.


Shower Enclosures


Update your shower enclosure with a modern glass and metal frame that allows plenty of light to filter through your bathroom. Choose from different glass finishes, from clear to frosted or even glass blocks. If you like an ultra modern look, consider a frameless shower enclosure that features clean glass panels held in place by metal clips, as if they are floating.


Small Touches








A bathroom remodel doesn't have to involve a complete overhaul. If you need to remodel on a budget, you can make a few small changes for a big impact. Apply a couple of fresh coats of paint to the walls that coordinate or contrast with the existing tile color. Change out the hardware on your cabinets, and replace your plumbing fixtures, including faucets and shower heads, with new models that match. Finally, change out your shower curtain with a fresh one and buy matching towels and a few decorative accessories for your bathroom counter.

Tags: your bathroom, back splash, bathroom remodel, remodeling bathroom, shower enclosure, tile counter
at

Install Armstrong Stone Collection Laminate Flooring

The Armstrong Stone Collection is a variety of laminate flooring designed to resemble solid stone flooring like marble, granite or sandstone. This material costs just a fraction of the price of real stone, and is available in tiled or solid flooring options. It is made from a composite base topped with a printed picture of stone, then topped with a clear urethane wear layer. Armstrong laminate is designed as a floating floor system, making it easy for DIY homeowners to install using simple tools and techniques.


Instructions








1. Measure your floor. Multiply the length and width of the space to determine the square footage, then use this value to purchase the correct amount of flooring. Buy about 5 percent more material than you think you'll need, as some will be lost to cutting. Set the material into the room where in will be installed and allow it to acclimate to temperature and humidity levels for 24 hours before installation.


2. Prepare your subfloor. Armstrong laminate can be installed over any clean, level and dry surface. It should not be installed over floating floors or carpet thicker than 1/4 inch. If installing over a wood subfloor, remove any stray nails or staples, and make sure all floor boards are nailed securely in place. Prep concrete by grinding away high spots and filling low areas with a leveling compound.


3. Cover the floor with an Armstrong foam underlayment product. This material helps to keep the floor warm and comfortable underfoot, and also acts as barrier against moisture. Butt each row of material together and tape the seams together with duct tape. Do not overlap the foam or attach it to the subfloor.


4. Place your first row of material against the longest wall in the room. Create a 1/4-inch expansion joint along the wall using plastic spacers. Cut the planks as needed with a power or hand saw. Place the boards face up when cutting them with a hand saw, or face down when using a power saw. This will minimize damage to the finished surface.


5. Plan the pattern you will use before installing your second row of flooring. Many Armstrong laminate products not only have the color and appearance of stone, but also have printed grout lines to resemble stone tiles. If your floor has these grout lines, you'll want to align the grout lines along each row while still staggering the end of each section of laminate. To do this, it may be necessary to start each row with a cut board that will allow the grout lines to align while preventing alignment of the boards themselves.


6. Connect your second row of flooring with the first. Hold the plank at a 45 degree angle and slide the tongue of one board into the adjacent groove. Press down on the board until it snaps in place and lies flat on the floor. You may need to use a pull bar to connect the final row. Make sure to maintain a 1/4 inch expansion joint when you reach the opposite wall.


7. Remove spacers and add floor boards or trim around the room to cover expansion gaps and complete the project.

Tags: grout lines, Armstrong laminate, Armstrong Stone, Armstrong Stone Collection, expansion joint, floor boards, installed over
at

Decorate A Rustic Lodge Bathroom

Natural-looking elements, such as exposed wood beams, add authenticity to your rustic lodge bathroom.








Decorate your bathroom to look like it belongs in a rustic lodge if you're a fan of rustic decor of if you are redecrating an old lodge or cabin. Rustic decor typically includes warm colors and natural elements including untreated or rugged-looking wood and wildlife, such as fish, black bears or moose. Cowboy and western elements are another option for your rustic lodge bathroom. The decor should create a warm, inviting look in the bathroom to be authentic.


Instructions


1. Paint the walls a warm color or put up rustic-looking wallpaper with a pattern that fits in with your preferred theme if the walls don't have exposed wood or paneling already. Nature scenes, such as a stream or wildlife, is one option, whereas cowboys, old cabins, fishing, hunting or plaid patterns are another.


2. Hang a shower curtain on themed hooks. For example, a shower curtain with a pattern of old fishing poles, lures and hooks could have realistic-looking fishhooks. Alternatively, install iron or pewter hooks to hold a plaid or striped curtain that resembles a quilt or other natural pattern.


3. Place a rustic-looking rag rug in the bathroom for authenticity. Alternatively, use an old-looking or themed rug if you'd prefer an actual bath rug.


4. Display thick towels with rustic, nature images or stripes by rolling them or hanging them from hooks or towel bars. There are towel bars that look like real twigs or include iron shapes, such as a cowboy or moose silhouette.


5. Add accessories that serve a purpose and add to the decor, such as hanging an iron toilet paper holder or installing unfinished wood shelves to hold baskets for extra storage. Set an oil lantern or lamp on the counter, or use a nightlight that resembles an oil lantern. Scented candles or potpourri can add a nature scent.

Tags: rustic lodge, your rustic lodge, exposed wood, lodge bathroom, look like, rustic lodge bathroom
at

Monday, December 27, 2010

Decorate A Blue Bathroom







Blue is trendy in decor, so it is easy to locate blue accents for the bathroom. The only problem is that some people may find an all-blue bathroom decor monochromatic and sterile, while others like the serene spa-like feeling it creates. The mood of a blue bathroom depends wholly on what you choose as trim and accessories.


Instructions


1. Determine your goal. If you like the cool modern feeling, blue looks perfect accented with silver, gray or white. With silver bathroom hardware, the overall look is tranquil and soothing. If you want to go retro, try complementing turquoise blue with 1950s-style pink. If you favor French country, invest in some beautiful blue and antique white tiles. For Mexican rustic style, put together indigo blue with rusty orange and sunshine yellow.


2. Create splashes of color with paint. Try adding another shade of blue or get more vivid with Caribbean greens and yellows. You can go small with the color and just add it to baseboard trim or around window frames, or you can go major by painting an accent wall or the door or the vanity.


3. Try your hand at a crafty project. Because there are relatively few pieces of furniture in a bathroom, add a little impact to one of them. Try framing a mirror mosaic-style with tiles. Get funky vintage fabric for curtains. Trade out boring faucets for stylish ones with vintage or modern flair. Paint a subtle trim of stencils along the base of the wall.


4. Accessorize the look. If you are aiming for a cool and tranquil ambience, accessorize minimally and keep personal items out of sight or in sleek, geometric storage containers. If you want to warm up the look, accent the bathroom with a bright throw rug or some towels in warm shades of yellow, red, orange or earth tones. Some people may want to accessorize according to a theme, such as beach or tropical style, in which case shells, starfish and sand dollars look winning. For the eco-look, use organic cotton textiles, creamy white and earth tone shades and natural soaps and creams displayed in glass, ceramic or wooden containers.


5. Keep surfaces free of clutter. Now that your blue bathroom is beautifully decorated, endeavor to keep personal belongings out of sight or at least organized. Invest in some baskets to keep inside the vanity drawers and cupboards. These are the quickest and most versatile containers for sorting belongings.

Tags: blue bathroom, blue with, keep personal
at

Design Basics For Bathrooms

Basic bathroom design


Personal spa or repository for old wet towels? The bathroom makeover begins with the practical and progresses to the sublime. Real considerations for bathroom design are plumbing layouts, necessary functions, space, location and who will use it. The perfect shower curtain really belongs last on the list when you are designing a new or renovated bathroom.


Plumbing Sets Parameters


The existence of plumbing or architectural features that can't be moved will determine the layout of the bathroom. If a new bathroom or extensive renovation permits design freedom, then the only restriction is building codes. Be sure your contractor --- or you --- follow them to avoid costly do-overs. If you are locating fixtures according to the plumbing already there, changing the style of the fixtures could give you a whole new look. A window is another design driver that might dictate placement of the fixtures. Consider how natural light will fall on the mirror before finalizing the decor.


Function Dictates Design


Let the use determine the look. A bathroom to accommodate handicapped users needs a wider door, special rails and particular heights for fixtures. A young child's bathroom needs fixtures low to the ground and child-sized, or built-in or movable props to help a short person access the standard-height toilet and sink. A family that prefers baths over showers can minimize the shower equipment --- maybe just a flexible shower head that is part of the tub faucet with no extra curtain or enclosure. Or a separate shower stall could help ease the morning rush hour.


Materials


Since the bathroom is wet or damp a lot, you should take into account high humidity when selecting materials for floors, walls and fixtures. Tile flooring is standard; you can use small penny tiles, large terra cotta or slate style, or anything in between. Tiles that fit snugly together minimize the problems of grout staining and mold. If the floor is wood, use a good high-gloss floor paint that will resist moisture to make it easier to clean. Under-floor heating is particularly nice in tile or stone-floored bathrooms. The fixtures are most always porcelain, but you may opt for a glass or stone bowl for the sink. There are some spa tubs made of concrete or stone. Be sure your home can support the weight before choosing one of those. Walls can be covered in fabric, wallpaper, tile, paneling or paint. Tile and high-gloss paint are easiest to wipe down. Fabric or wallpaper will survive longer if they have a clear protective coating, either from the manufacturer or applied after installation. Bead board or other wood paneling is attractive but can crack or warp over time.








Space and Location


A tiny powder room tucked into a corner or under a stairwell should accommodate a pretty or elegant small sink with a mirror over it for quick guest touch-ups. The commode can be sleek and modern or an antique look, but it has to be compact. Think simple and small when providing hand towels, towel bars and lighting. A too-big bathroom (is there such a thing?) can be divided with a separate shower stall or a separate vanity area with double sinks. Install separate lighting for each area. When locating a new bathroom choose an area out of the main traffic flow for privacy. Be sure the door can open freely, whether it opens in or out.


Style


Style is the fun part, but it hinges on the important decisions of layout, use and affordable materials. Grown-ups' en suite bathrooms might reflect the desire for a serene retreat with natural materials, soothing, monochromatic color scheme, elegant faucets and fixtures and the addition of a shower/sauna, Jacuzzi or soaking tub. An unusual sink set into an antique chest or a metal stand can express some personality. Lighting on dimmers, so it can be bright for grooming and soft for bubble baths, is a good idea. Children's bathrooms are rubber ducky land. They should have easy-to-reach towel bars, toilet paper holders and mirrors. You'll probably add step stools, bright towels and a colorful bath rug. A non-skid mat goes in the tub and a clear shower curtain swimming in goldfish or wearing a world map is fun. A guest powder room can look like Louis XV had at it or benefit from a few exotic souvenirs from your travels. Turn tribal masks or Parisian menus into wall art and theme the room to match.

Tags: bathroom design, powder room, separate shower, separate shower stall, shower curtain
at

Friday, December 24, 2010

Design Office Lighting

When designing the layout for your office lighting there are several key issues that you need to remember. First, the purpose of the design is to provide sufficient illumination to support the work being done in the office, while providing a mood of comfort for those doing the work. The lighting design should enhance the ambiance of the office, while at the same time, be an efficient and cost effective lighting system.


Instructions


Design Office Lighting








1. Control contrast by selecting a lighting level that is only modestly brighter or less bright than the terminals employees will be working at. You can use a light meter to read the light level emitted from a typical monitor in your office. This is important because the human eye is built to detect contrasts toward the center of the gray-scale. At either end of that scale (complete white light or total darkness) the human eye strains more with the greater contrast intensity. So, watching a white screen in a dark room will cause eye strain, and damage eyes over time.


2. Minimize reflections of direct lighting against shiny objects and surfaces. If your office uses stainless steel as a design feature, focus direct lighting away from these surfaces. Reflections distort the effect of a good lighting design if they are unintended.








3. Layer lighting by allowing the areas lit by a single light fixture to overlap. This causes a more relaxed feeling as the light blends together toward the production area being lit. The effect is that you receive a greater amount of light in your work environment while your workers perceive a more comfortable work environment.


4. Use efficient and economic lighting resources by employing natural lighting via windows and skylights wherever possible. Design with low wattage, energy-efficient compact fluorescent light bulbs or led spot lighting for example. Make every effort to minimize the environmental impact of your lighting choices and you will (by default) design a more cost effective and efficient lighting system as well.

Tags: your office, cost effective, Design Office, Design Office Lighting, direct lighting, lighting design, lighting system
at

Cope Wood Molding

A miter saw works best for the first cut of a cope.


Coping usually makes the best cut for inside corners for baseboard, crown molding and other moldings. Corners are rarely a true 45-degree angle and often consist of a compound angle, which makes it difficult to fit the trim without coping. Coping will save you time, especially if you know a few simple tricks to make the corner fit tighter than trying to get the perfect angle. A few molding designs do not work well for coping, but most moldings can be coped with relative ease.


Instructions


1. Place the trim against the miter box fence and cut a 45-degree angle on the end. Position the trim so that it sits on the saw the same way it will be nailed in place. The cut should be angled in such a way that the long point is at the back.


2. Clamp the trim on two saw horses and cut out the profile of the 45-degree angle you just cut. Start at the top of the piece and work toward the bottom, following the design of the trim. Angle the cut back about 20 degrees.


3. Clean up the cut with a half round wood file. You may need a rat tail file if the profile of your trim is intricate.

Tags: 45-degree angle
at

Install A Ceiling Fan With Red Wire

A ceiling fan with a light fixture usually includes a red wire.


Ceiling fans are appliances used to increase the comfort of a home. Depending on how the fan is used, it can help heat or cool a home by providing more control of the airflow within the home. Installing a ceiling fan can be a little challenging. Most ceiling fans have a white wire, a black wire, and a ground wire. If the ceiling fan has a light fixture, it has three more wires. One of those wires is usually a red wire. If you're using an existing ceiling fixture box, make sure it is rated to hold the weight of a ceiling fan, or install a box that is.


Instructions


1. Shut off the circuit breaker feeding the circuit where you will be working. Test the circuit with a voltage tester to make sure the power is off.


2. Disconnect the white and black wires of the light fixture from the electrical splices, by untwisting the wire connectors and separating the pairs of wires. Set the fixture to the side.








3. Have a friend help hold the ceiling fan close to the bottom of the ceiling's electrical box. Make sure the electrical box is well-secured to the ceiling joist, and the box is rated to hold the weight of a ceiling fan. Splice the white (neutral) wire from the ceiling fan to the white (neutral) wire in the electrical box. Twist the wires together by screwing on a wire connector


4. Connect the black (hot) wire from the ceiling fan with the black (hot) wire in the electrical box, plus the red wire from the light fixture. The red wire is the hot wire for the fixture. Join the three wires together by screwing on an appropriately sized wire connector.


5. Splice all the green or bare copper ground wires together, using a larger-sized wire connector. Push all the spliced wires back into the electrical box, gently folding them if necessary.


6. Finish mounting the ceiling fan, according to the model's instructions.


7. Turn the power to the circuit back on. Test the fan and light fixture for correct operation. Run through all fan speeds and light-fixture settings.

Tags: light fixture, black wire, wire connector, wire from, wires together, ceiling with, from ceiling
at

Thursday, December 23, 2010

Finish Tongue & Groove Wood Ceilings

Don't use a fabric drop cloth alone, or stain drips may bleed through.


Tongue-and-groove ceilings are made of wood, cut with interlocking parts that hide nails from sight. Seasonal movements will cause tongue-and-groove boards to shift. This often allows unfinished portions of the wood to become exposed. The best way to finish a tongue-and-groove ceiling is to stain each board prior to installation. Unfortunately, many builders install the boards before they are stained. If you need to finish a tongue-and-groove ceiling, you will need to perform the proper preparation and application to avoid unforeseen messes. You should also keep a small amount of stain to touch up unfinished wood as it exposes itself, over time.


Instructions


1. Cover flooring with plastic drop cloths. Cover the plastic drop cloths with fabric ones.


2. Using a step ladder, sweep over the tongue-and-groove ceiling with a broom to remove dust.


3. Open the bucket of stain. Use a wooden stick to stir the stain for 5 full minutes. Pour 1 gallon of stain into the 2-gallon painter's pot.








4. Use a 4-inch paintbrush to apply stain to the ceiling. Ensure that the brush is made for use with oil-based coatings. Hold the brush sideways to work stain into the areas between the tongue and groove boards.








5. Wait 2 hours for the stain to dry. Apply an additional coat if you'd like darker, richer results.


6. Store the stain in a garage or storage area. Use the remaining stain to touch up unfinished wood as it presents itself.

Tags: tongue-and-groove ceiling, drop cloths, finish tongue-and-groove, finish tongue-and-groove ceiling, plastic drop, plastic drop cloths, stain into
at

Build Decorative Ceiling Beams

One way to make a room appear completely different is to add a decorative ceiling beam. You can use such a beam to add visual appeal to the room, or to hide wiring for ceiling-mounted fixtures. If you want to give a room in your home a face-lift, adding a decorative oak ceiling beam may be just the kind of project to accomplish the desired effect.


Instructions


1. Decide which direction you want the beam to run, and then measure across the ceiling to find the middle. Measure 2 7/8 inches from the center, and make a mark. Go to the opposite end of the ceiling, and repeat the process. Use the chalk line to make a straight line from one mark to the other, across the length of the ceiling where the beam will be added. This line marks where the outside edge of your mounting board will be placed. Measure the distance from one end of the wall to the other, for cutting your material.


2. Install the 2-by-6-inch material flat against the ceiling. Attach it with 12d nails. It is important that you nail the mounting board securely, so take the time to locate the ceiling joists. If a single length of wood is too short, cut pieces square, and butt the ends together for the remaining distance. This material will not be visible after the beam is built but it should follow the chalk line you made.


3. If the oak 1-by-6-inch material is not long enough to fit in a single piece, cut a 45-degree angle across the face of one end. Start at either wall, and place the oak so that the face of the cut points outward and one edge is butted against the ceiling. Butt the square end against the wall, and use 4d finish nails to attach it to the mounting board every 16 inches. For the next piece, cut it so that the outside edge of the angle fits on top of the piece you have already mounted. This forms a better-looking joint than simply butting square-cut ends together. Repeat this process along the length of the beam, with the final piece cut square and butting against the wall just as you began with the first piece. Repeat this process along the other side of the mounting board, forming the two sidewalls of the beam.








4. Install the faceplate for the beam. The oak for the face will fit inside the two walls you have already installed, and should be mounted so that it is flush with the bottom edges of both sides. Remember to make your joints using 45-degree angles. Use 4d nails to attach the sides to the face. Be careful that your joints are placed so that there is a continuous smooth face. Use the nail set to sink all nailheads below the surface of the wood slightly.


5. Mix sawdust with clear wood glue to form a putty-like paste. Dab this mixture into each nail hole or any other minor blemishes that may be visible. This is an old trick used by trim carpenters in fine carpentry. You could use wood putty for this process, but you will match wood color more accurately using actual sawdust from the same lumber.


6. Sand the beam on all three sides. Use the 150-grit sandpaper first, and sand the joints to remove any jutting edges. With that done, use the 220-grit sandpaper to achieve a smooth surface along the length of the beam on all sides.


7. Sand the trim material before installing it. Install the 1-by-2 trim along the top corner where the beam meets the ceiling, using 4d finish nails. Do not allow joints in the trim to match up to joints in the beam. Instead, cut 16 inches off the piece to achieve an offset between the two. At each wall, cut two pieces of trim to run between the top piece of trim and the bottom edge of the beam. Cut two more pieces of trim to lay flat across of the bottom of the beam on each end, including covering the ends of the trim you just mounted. The finished trim should cover all spaces where the beam touches the walls.


8. Set the nails and fill them as before. Sand the joints to make them smooth. After the glue has dried, hand-sand over the nail holes with 220-grit sandpaper to remove any bumps or bulges.

Tags: mounting board, this process, where beam, 220-grit sandpaper, against ceiling, against wall
at

Wednesday, December 22, 2010

Decorate A Vintage Chandelier

Give vintage chandeliers new life with fresh embellishments.


The definition of a vintage home design piece can vary from year to year. In general, vintage pieces are at least 20 years old, but no older than 100. Anything older than that and the object may be considered antique. Vintage chandeliers, depending on their ages, may be exceedingly ornate or breathtakingly simple. Either way, with the right embellishments, vintage chandeliers can add old world charm into any space.


Instructions


1. Study the chandelier to pinpoint its strengths and weaknesses. Some vintage chandeliers have really beautiful features that should be enhanced while other chandeliers might house some wear-and-tear damage or lack structural support. Identifying its strengths and weakness will help you to focus your design efforts to play up its strengths and mask its weaknesses.


2. Identify the home's design theme. While a vintage chandelier makes a wonderful focal point, it should still compliment the design of the home rather than distract from it. If the home holds many classical pieces, incorporating sleek, miniature lampshades around the light fixtures or candles might uphold the classic design. If you're unsure of the home's design, choose a few objects that really stand out to you. For instance, if you like a wooden statue that you purchased overseas, your style might be considered worldly or eclectic, in which case wooden or ethnic embellishments might be appropriate.


3. Establish a budget. Having a budget in mind will help establish a design focus when working with a vintage chandelier. Embellishments such as a strand of pearls or sheer fabric are cost-effective and make a huge design impact. Spray paint also offers a cost-effective way to transform a vintage chandelier from old to new.








4. Create a list of what you wish to accomplish with the vintage chandelier. If your goal is to create the illusion of having a larger space, incorporate crystals or miniature hanging mirrors onto the chandelier. On the other hand, if you want the chandelier to be the main focal point of the room, make sure it's not competing with another focal point, such as the fireplace.


5. Consider the chandelier's original charm and work to enhance it with minimal embellishments. While sprucing up a vintage chandelier is sometimes necessary and even encouraged, be weary of altering the chandelier so much that it becomes unrecognizable. At every stage of the design process, ask yourself whether the chandelier still retains its vintage integrity. If not, then perhaps you've taken the design process too far and it's time to scale it back.

Tags: focal point, home design, vintage chandelier, vintage chandeliers, design process, older than, vintage chandelier
at

Choose Floor Tile For A Small Bathroom

Choose Floor Tile for a Small Bathroom


Tile provides a durable, water-resistant surface for bathroom floors. It lasts longer than linoleum and can increase the marketability of your home. Tiling a bathroom floor, however, involves more than simply laying tile. Before tiling a bathroom, especially a small bathroom, you should consider the appearance the tile gives your bathroom and how it matches or complements such things as the counters, your vanity, and other fixtures such as towel bars, sconces, or faucets. You should also select tile based on your emotions and how the tile makes you and your family "feel." To select the best tile for your bathroom, simply follow a few guidelines.


Instructions


Instructions


1. Select a tile size that creates the illusion of space. For instance, tiles usually come in small 2-inch, 4-inch, 6-inch, or 10-inch tiles. Average-sized tiles come in 12-inch tiles, and extra-large tiles come in 14-inch and 18-inch sizes. For small bathrooms, avoid small tiles, which create the sense of a small area. Instead, select larger 12" or 14" tiles.


2. Select plain tiles or tiles with an uncluttered design. For instance, a thick mosaic could make a small bathroom feel frantic or busy. Conversely, tiles with fewer lines or open spaces of color will create a sense of calm.








3. Select a color that enhances warmth. Warmth is the general feeling of friendliness or coziness that people feel as they enter a room. For instance, black and white tiles will create a colder, modern feeling. As an extreme example, black and blood-red tile could create a ghoulish feel. Light browns and tans, however, as well as soft blues or greens create a sense of warmth and welcome.


4. Consider two sizes and patterns. For instance, small 2-inch tiles along the outside of the bathroom and serving as a border around larger tiles might disrupt the illusion of "extra" space, but the two-tile pattern can help increase the sense of warmth. Consider your design options carefully because mismatched patterns, solids with stripes, for instance, can create a hectic, unsettling feel.


5. Consider tile brightness. Because light-colored or glazed tiles reflect a lot of light, they will have a higher degree of perceived brightness than darker or unglazed tiles. Reflections in the floor help create depth, which adds to the illusion of extra space.


6. Consider whether you want glazed or unglazed tiles. Glazing is a protective coating applied over the tile. During hot showers, condensation gathers much more quickly in small bathrooms than it does in large bathrooms. Glazed tiles can prevent water from pooling into grooves and cracks, which can lead to mildew.


7. Decide what material you prefer. Tile comes in such material as stone, ceramic, or vinyl. Stone and ceramic tile can be very cold in the winter. Vinyl tile will be much warmer to your bare feet. Although vinyl might wear out sooner, it costs less and looks just as good. Stone and ceramic tile lasts longer but costs more.

Tags: create sense, ceramic tile, Choose Floor, Choose Floor Tile, extra space, Floor Tile, Floor Tile Small
at

Tuesday, December 21, 2010

Do Chandeliers Need To Be Centered Over Tables

A large room may have two or more chandeliers.


Chandeliers are familiar to most people as the light fixtures used over the dining room table. They are also used in foyers, and in many other rooms in the home if the house is grand and the decor and ceiling height allow the fixture to be used properly. In larger homes with very long dining room tables, it is somewhat common for several chandeliers to be used in order to properly light the full length of the table. In this case, the chandeliers are centered along the length of the table center line, but only the middle chandelier is centered over the width of the table center line. Very wide tables may have two rows of chandeliers paired.


Lighting


A properly sized chandelier will provide good illumination over the table.


The most important function of a chandelier is to properly light the area where the fixture is mounted. In a dining room, there are usually secondary lights to provide lighting around the perimeter of the table, and the chandeliers are used for light directly on the table surface. If a chandelier is too big, too small or positioned too high or off to one side, then the table will not be properly lit.


Balance


Multiple modern chandeliers are used over an island to provide good surface lighting.


Chandeliers are often used in areas other than the dining room. In these applications, the fixture is usually centered on the area of the room where its light is being used. For some rooms, this means there will be rows of chandeliers, each lighting an area and overlapping into the lighting area of the adjacent fixtures. These fixtures look best when the fixture arrangement makes sense visually. In a master bathroom, the fixture may be centered over the sink area or tub area, while pot lights are used for additional illumination in the rest of the room. A chandelier placed to one side over a table is likely to look awkward and unfinished.


Size


This dining room design illustrates standard chandelier size and placement.








Lighting designers use calculators to determine the amount of light or size of chandelier required to work well in a room. The width of a chandelier is calculated by measuring the length and width of the room. If a room is 12 by 12 feet square, the designer will add 12 plus 12 to get 24 and estimate that a fixture 24 to 28 inches wide will work well in the space.


Volume and Multiple Fixtures


A small chandelier highlights a kitchen sink.


The height of a chandelier is also calculated. Measure the ceiling height of the room at its tallest point. Calculate 2-1/2 to 3 inches per foot of height for the height of the fixture when you are using a single fixture. When you are using multiple fixtures, you combine the measurements so that you create the same visual effect even if the fixtures are spread out. Designers will usually go larger in larger rooms if they feel a fixture looks thin or too small. Chandeliers are also placed at any location to highlight some aspect of that location. The location can be as mundane as a kitchen sink.

Tags: dining room, chandeliers used, ceiling height, center line, kitchen sink, length table
at

Monday, December 20, 2010

Install Tongueandgroove Pine On Inside Walls

Install Tongue-and-Groove Pine on Inside Walls


Walls are usually finished out with paint, wallpaper, tile or sometimes paneling. For a more rustic look, though, you can use tongue-and-groove pine planks, arranged horizontally up the wall. The connections between the planks work the same way they do in wood floors, with the tongue-and-groove fittings locking the boards together to form the flat surface. Get the planks pre-finished, or stain and varnish them yourself, before installation.








Instructions








1. Mark all the studs on the walls, using your electronic stud finder. Mark them with vertical lines, floor to ceiling, using a level and pencil.


2. Mark a horizontal line along the bottom of the wall, from end to end, at the height of a plank plus ½ inch. So if the planks are 10 inches wide, the line should be 10 1/2 inches up from the floor.


3. Measure the length of the wall. Use your miter saw to cut a plank to that length.


4. Hold the plank underneath the horizontal line, so there is a ½-inch gap at the floor. Position the plank so the tongue is facing up. Shoot finish nails into the plank at each point where it crosses a stud (based on the vertical lines you drew on the wall). Put in two nails per stud, one on the upper edge of the board and one on the lower edge.


5. Cut the second plank to size. Set it on top of the first plank, locking together the tongue-and-groove fittings. Shoot one nail though the upper edge of the board, at a downward angle, just above the tongue, at each point where it crosses a stud. (This will hide the nail heads, as the next board will cover them.)


6. Repeat the process for each new plank, building up the wall. Cut the top plank along its length on a table saw so it fits near the ceiling, with a ½-gap left there. Floor and ceiling trim will cover the gaps at the top and bottom.

Tags: crosses stud, each point, each point where, edge board, horizontal line
at

Decorate A Rectangle Living Room

Arrange your furniture to complement your living room's rectangular shape.


Consider the shape and size of your living room when determining proceed with decorating the space. Different furniture groupings and arrangements work better in a rectangular living room than in another shape. The exact arrangement and decor you choose should work with the shape, rather than fight it. Create a comfortable living room that looks and feels inviting for you and your guests.


Instructions


1. Paint one long wall, where your sofa or other large piece of furniture will go, in a bright or darker color than the other three walls to create an accent wall. Alternatively, use vertical stripes or wallpaper with a vertical design to take the focus off the rectangular shape by visually lengthening the walls. Warm colors will make a large room feel cozier, while cool, light colors can make the room feel larger.


2. Position your largest piece of furniture first. For example, position your sofa against a long wall and the entertainment center, a matching sofa or pair of chairs across from it. Use a rectangular-shaped coffee table or ottoman in front of the sofa to avoid taking up unnecessary space across the width of the room. Place end tables on either side of your sofa, particularly if you use an ottoman in front of the sofa.


3. Anchor your furniture arrangement with a rug. Use an oval or round rug to downplay the room's rectangular shape. An area rug can pull your color scheme together by incorporating the colors and designs that set the tone for the rest of the room.


4. Hang window coverings that complement the walls, furniture and rug. Sheer curtains allow natural light to filter in, which can make your living room feel more cheerful and inviting.


5. Add paintings, sculptures, sconces, mirrors or framed photographs to the short wall. A large piece of artwork, mirror or arrangement of pictures can serve as a focal point.


6. Accessorize the room with lamps, throws, pillows, candles, pictures, vases and flowers. Include extra lighting in the far reaches of the room, particularly if there are no windows or overhead lights on one side of the room.

Tags: living room, rectangular shape, room feel, your living, your living room
at

Change A Lamp Harp Base

Harps raise or lower the height of a lampshade.


Refreshing your old lamp with a new shade sometimes requires changing the harp that holds the shade. Raising or lowering the lampshade a few inches can make a big difference in appearance. Luckily changing the harp base gives you instant options for different heights and types of shades. With a few tools and a few minutes you can change the profile of your lamp.


Instructions


Changing Lamp Harps


1. Work on a comfortable table or counter top. Unplug the lamp and remove the finial, shade and bulb. Harps are made in one or two pieces. If yours is a two-piece remove the harp top by sliding up the fasteners and pinching the legs together to remove it from the base slots, otherwise proceed to the next step.








2. Remove the socket cover by locating and pushing in on the spot marked "press" to loosen the socket. On really tight ones, you may have to resort to a gentle pinch with the pliers.


3. Loosen the screws and remove the wires on the sides of the socket, but leave the screws attached. Loosen the screw holding the socket base to the threaded pipe and remove the entire socket. Take off spacers or decorative components and make note of the order in which you remove them. When you reach the harp base, remove it and thread on the new one.


4. Replace parts in reverse of the order in which they were removed. Reattach the socket base to the threaded pipe and tighten the side screw. Connect one wire to each of the side screws on the socket. Thread the bare end of the wire over the screw from left to right so the wire is pulled into the screw as you tighten it.








5. Slip on the socket cover taking care that the crimped edge is fitted snugly into the socket base. Attach the harp top if it is a two-piece assembly. Insert and tighten the bulb. Attach your new lampshade and secure it with the finial. Plug in the lamp and turn it on.

Tags: socket base, base threaded, base threaded pipe, changing harp, harp base
at

Friday, December 17, 2010

Ceilings

About Ceilings


Ceilings are more than a divider between rooms and attics. They can convey a message to all onlookers in a way that no other part of a building can do. For many years, ceilings were thought to be just the divider between rooms and attics; however, as innovations come to bear, the ceiling has become an important part of the design of a structure.


Type


With modern technology playing a significant role in the building industry, the ceiling of a structure has become an area of focus. At one time, different types of ceilings were limited to the cathedral, flat, or vaulted. However, adding a few items that have not been considered a ceiling 'part' until now has increased the different types of ceilings available. If you can dream it, it can be done to a ceiling.


Benefits


Drop-down, or suspended ceilings are usually thought to belong to business structures. The innovation of the suspended ceiling has saved on the costs of heating and cooling by adding another space between the room and the attic. Why not use this method in a home that already has ceilings that are above eight feet? The benefits will show up by the time the next energy bill arrives. In addition to saving money, suspended ceilings come in many different styles.


Effects


Do you have a simple, flat ceiling that you would like to spruce up? There are many ways to add to the effects of a ceiling in a room. One way that does not require tearing the old one out completely is changing the light fixtures. Removing the light fixture from the center of the room's ceiling and replacing it with indirect lighting around the perimeter will enhance the effects of not only the ceiling, but also the room.


Features


Here is where the imagination can soar. Depending on your ambition, a ceiling can take a feature from modern technology, or a simple characteristic provided by the homeowner. If tearing down the old ceiling is an option, then the features of the new ceiling will only be hindered by a lack of imagination. Swirls, vaults, and even drop-down screens for a projection TV are just some of the features that can be added to your ceiling.








The Facts


Nothing hurts a homeowner more than walking into a room that has sagging ceilings. The fact that ceilings do sag can bring disappointment to anyone. The way to prevent this from happening is to use drywall screws on eight-inch centers to support the ceiling. Using 2 by 6-inch lumber for the joists only works if the drywall is secured to them properly. The facts about ceilings include other things than the application of drywall, but this one is the most important.

Tags: between rooms, between rooms attics, ceilings were, different types, different types ceilings, divider between, divider between rooms
at

Build A Ceiling From Wood

Wood ceilings can give a homey and rustic feel to a house.








A wooden ceiling is a character-filled alternative to the conventional drywall. In addition to having the warmth and color of wood, you are spared the drudgery of overhead drywall sanding during construction. A wood ceiling also will be more effective at retaining heat in the living space than a drywall ceiling. Wooden ceilings can be very rustic, with plain wood planks applied to the underside of the floor joists or more attractively finished with beaded, tongue-in-groove paneling.


Instructions


Determine How Much Wood You Need


1. Measure the width and length of the ceiling that you will be covering with wood.


2. Multiply the width by the length and this will give you the square footage of wood that you will need. For example, if the room is 10 feet wide by 16 feet long, you will need 160 square feet of wood to cover it.


3. Buy a few extra square feet of wood to cover for mistakes and damaged wood.


Build the Ceiling


4. Place the first tongue-and-groove board against one of the side walls, perpendicular to the floor joists above it, with the groove facing the wall. Attach it to the floor joists by driving nails into the face of the board an inch away from the wall and diagonally into the shoulder of the tongue. Countersink the nails going into the tongue with a nail set.


5. Place the second board against the first, with its groove facing the tongue on the first board. Tap the second board onto the first so that its groove goes around the tongue of the first board. Tap them together with your hand or lightly with a hammer until they are as tight together as they will go. The side of the second board that is against the first board will be held up because its groove is joined with the tongue on the first board.


6. Secure the leading edge of the second board by driving nails through the shoulder of the tongue in the same way that you did the first board. Put a nail into every floor joist for maximum strength.


7. Continue in this manner across the ceiling, joining the groove of each board with the tongue of the previous one.


8. Apply crown molding around all four sides of the ceiling after you have finished installing the boards. The crown molding will hide the edges and ends of the boards and make everything look neat and finished.

Tags: first board, second board, floor joists, tongue first, tongue first board
at

Make A Half Bathroom

Add a half bathroom to your home.


Accommodate guests and add convenience to your home with the addition of a half bathroom. Consisting of only a toilet and sink, these bathrooms are typically located on the main level of the home, providing guests and family members easy access to the facility. Whether you're adding a new space for the half bathroom or converting an existing location, being familiar with the installation process will help you effectively create this space.


Instructions


1. Draw a design for the half bathroom. Decide on a layout for the space that is functional and allows for ease of use. The floor plan should indicate where the toilet, sink and door will be located.


2. Decide on finishings for the half bathroom. Visit a home improvement store and select a toilet and sink, as well as flooring and light fixtures.


3. Install plumbing, electric and ventilation into the space. Unless you are a licensed professional in these areas, hire a contractor to complete the job to ensure it is done correctly and safely. At this point, the fixtures (toilet, sink and lighting) should also be installed in the space. To install the toilet, install bolts on the flange that the plumber installed, as well as a wax ring. Set the bowl on top of the flange and attach the bowl to the bolts. Attach the water supply lines to the tank. To install the sink, attach the water supply lines to the fixture, level the basin and install the sink trap and faucet. If you're not comfortable installing these fixtures yourself, have a plumber install them.








4. Add the flooring to the space. Install tiles, laminate flooring, stone or whatever type of material you have chosen for the flooring.


5. Finish the walls. Paint the walls, install tiles on them or do a combination of the two to add visual interest to the space.


6. Add finishing touches. Hang towel racks, install a mirror over the sink, hang pictures and add any other decorative details that will complete the look of the space.

Tags: half bathroom, toilet sink, install sink, supply lines, water supply, water supply lines, your home
at

Thursday, December 16, 2010

Decorate With Faux Wood Crown Molding

Crown molding is a decorative effect which give rooms a finished or dramatic look. Its popularity led manufacturers to develop faux wood textures that are more cost effective. The result is molding that is easier to work with and install. These faux moldings are also not as sensitive to temperature and climate changes as natural wood so there is also less maintenance.


Instructions


1. Determine the style of your house and decor. Faux wood moldings come in a variety of design styles, whether contemporary or traditional.


2. Consider any issues in the room to coordinate around your molding plan, such as uneven ceilings or heat registers. Check the corners with a framing square to see if they are evenly square or not.








3. Use a good, high-quality retractable tape measure to determine how much crown molding to buy. An even better option is a laser or digital tape measure. Measure everything twice, just in case.


4. Complement the height of your ceilings with the width of your molding. Higher ceilings can handle thick faux molding without the molding looking lost on a large expanse of wall.


5. Decorate other areas in your room with your crown molding. Replace or install baseboards with a complementary style of the faux wood.


6. Add decorative molding to windows and doors to balance your room. Remember to keep in mind a consistency of style.

Tags: crown molding, tape measure, your molding, your room
at

Design A Tray Ceiling

Tray ceiling in process


Tray ceilings are a wonderful way to give the illusion of a higher ceiling. Tray ceilings also provide an interesting architectural element to a room. This method sometimes is the only solution to hide plumbing or duct work. This article will provide you with the basic details to design your own tray ceiling.








Instructions


1. Decide the size of the tray. Consider if there are other tray ceilings in the home. You may want this new tray to match their dimensions. If this is the only tray, some basic considerations are: 1) Do you want the tray to be uniform in size? Or 2) Do you want the resulting central ceiling to be uniform? Keep in mind the functional space underneath the tray. If this is a kitchen, you will need enough space to mount cabinets at the proper height.


2. Prepare the ceiling. Depending on the quality of the existing ceiling, you may need to remove all the Sheetrock to level the ceiling. The ceiling must be level or you will spend far too much time trying to level your tray instead. If leveling is needed, consider running 2x4s perpendicular to the ceiling joists. You can add shims between them to create a level surface. Attach the 2x4s using adhesive and three inch (minimum) screws.


3. Build the frame for the tray, then attach to the ceiling. Frame like a ladder. If the ceiling is not level, this will not work. You could also attach 2x4s on the ceiling first, then attach 1/2" plywood for a quick tray. Which style you use depends on the use of the tray. If this will hold lighting or other elements, you will want the strength of the 2x4s.


4. Add design elements once the frame is complete. Recessed lighting or speakers are easily added in this stage. You can run plumbing or heating ducts in this stage as well. Consider adding extra insulation in this area if warranted. Once all of your inside the tray elements are in place, add the drywall, mud and paint. Consider a different color paint for the highest point in the tray for contrasting purposes.


5. Add crown molding. This feature continues to add style and grace to your new tray ceiling. It furthers the illusion of a higher ceiling in the center.

Tags: your tray, higher ceiling, illusion higher, illusion higher ceiling, then attach
at

Wednesday, December 15, 2010

Ideas To Cover Popcorn Ceiling







If your popcorn ceiling is looking worn and dated but you don't want to tear it down for fear of asbestos, cover it up. Popcorn ceilings are typically tile, which is an inexpensive ceiling option. Another type of popcorn ceiling is created when a basic flat ceiling is sprayed with a coating of acoustic material, which has a cottage cheese texture. Popcorn ceiling tiles are usually fragile and thin, so no matter how you try to cover them, handle with care.


Paint It


For a quick, inexpensive fix, paint it. Although painting the ceiling will not cover up the popcorn look completely, it will get rid of the dull grayish white color. You can paint a popcorn ceiling any color you want using standard interior latex house paint. Add a simple white for a fresh look, or color it with a bold hue. To keep from breaking the ceiling, use a low pressure paint sprayer to apply the paint, if you have one. For a more traditional application, use a thick roller, which will apply paint in the deep spots, and use smooth, gentle strokes to prevent the tiles from breaking.


Tile It


Seal in your popcorn ceiling by applying ceiling tile over it. For a modern look, install a simple, bright white tile ceiling over the old ceiling. If you prefer a more detailed look, you can purchase more elaborate grooved tiles, featuring unique designs. Or achieve a vintage look by installing metal tiles. Purchase new metal tiles at a home improvement store or add authenticity by adding historic, used tiles.


Add Wood


If you're going for a natural or contemporary look in your room, use wood to cover your popcorn ceiling. Install beadboard on your ceiling for a touch of country style. For a more traditional look, purchase wood floor or ceiling planking and have it applied to your ceiling. If a real wood ceiling doesn't fit your budget, try a laminate wood instead.


Use Fabric


If your popcorn ceiling is in an apartment you can't change or you just need a quick fix, use fabric to cover it up. Attach hooks, either the screw in kind or adhesive ones, to your ceiling, spacing them out. Purchase a large piece of fabric, and attach it to the hooks, creating a swagged or bundled fabric look on your ceiling. For a simpler, less formal look, cut pieces of fabric to cover each ceiling tile.

Tags: popcorn ceiling, your ceiling, your popcorn, your popcorn ceiling, apply paint
at

Make A Mirror With Antique Ceiling Tiles

Use antique tin ceiling tiles to frame a mirror.


Antique ceiling tiles are artifacts of a bygone era that you can find at antique stores and restoration-related salvage businesses. Tin ceiling tiles produced in the 1800s came in sheets or individual tiles. Collectibles-Articles.com says that these affordable, embossed, patterned tin tiles replicated the grandeur of affluent European plaster decorated ceilings. Aside from tiling a ceiling or a kitchen backsplash, you can use antique ceiling tiles in a variety of craft projects, such as framing a mirror. Make a mirror framed with antique ceiling tiles to accent your home d cor.


Instructions


1. Lay the plywood on the table. Center and glue the mirror to the wood using a silicone-based adhesive. Apply adhesive with a caulking gun, if applicable, or squeeze it directly from the tube or bottle. Look for adhesive at hardware and home improvement stores.


2. Allow the glue to dry for about 12 hours and cure for 24 hours.








3. Place the antique ceiling tiles flush along the outside edges of the mirror. Ceiling tiles do not have to be identical.


4. Hammer finish nails into each corner of each ceiling tile and into the plywood.


5. Lay a newspaper rectangle over the mirror. Tape the newspaper to the mirror to protect the glass from paint.


6. Paint the antique ceiling tiles with oil-based paint intended for metal. Allow the paint to dry. Paint the ceiling tiles with a clear coat. Use clear spray paint if desired, but be careful not to apply too much paint to the tiles. Excessive paint will pool on the metal and within the embossed design. Allow the clear coat to dry.


7. Remove the newspaper and tape carefully to avoid lifting paint from the ceiling tiles.


8. Turn the mirror over. Measure 2 inches toward the center from each top corner. Use finish nails and a hammer to install sawtooth hangers in the top right and left corner.

Tags: ceiling tiles, antique ceiling, antique ceiling, antique ceiling tiles, antique ceiling tiles, ceiling tiles
at

Tuesday, December 14, 2010

Restore Old Iron Floor Lamps

Restore iron floor lamps to their former glory.


Old iron lamps are meant to be practical, as well as decorative, and come in every shape, size and design, from simple to ornate. Old iron has a higher carbon content than newer types of metal, making it less tensile and more brittle. Its worst problems are rust, time and old wiring. Cleaning and rewiring an old iron floor lamp will add to its value.


Instructions


1. Unplug the lamp, and remove the shade and light bulb. Set them aside.








2. Scrub the iron socket, pole, base and feet with a stiff wire brush to remove rust and dirt. Press hard to get the bristles into the nooks and crannies of engraved areas.


3. Coat all the surfaces except the inside of the socket with a light spray of lubricating oil. Rub the object with a piece of fine-grit emery cloth to remove remaining rust. The oil will prevent undue scratching and lubricate moving parts, while the cloth will get rid of the rust.


4. Remove the socket, and disconnect old wires. If screws are stubborn, use a squirt of lubricating oil to work them loose. Pull the wires out through the base.


5. Wipe the lamp parts with a soft cloth dipped in mineral spirits to remove oil and remaining rust. Wrap all parts of the lamp in old newspaper, and place them in a warm, dry place for 72 hours to remove all dampness that can lead to rust.


6. Remove the newspaper and wipe gently with a rag, sprayed slightly with lubricating oil. An alternative is to apply a thin coat of paste wax with a cloth, and buff to a shine. Either treatment will keep dampness away from the cast iron and prevent oxidation.


7. Rewire the lamp, threading new cable through the base and pole to the socket. At the socket end, strip 1/2-inch of insulation back to both bare wires. Loop the wires around the screws, and tighten them with a screwdriver. Restore the bulb and shade, and plug the lamp in.

Tags: remaining rust, remove remaining, remove remaining rust, rust Remove, through base
at

Sand Crown Molding

Molding must be sanded to prepare it for paint or stain


Crown molding adds a decorative touch to rooms by softening the hard joint between the walls an ceiling of a room. Most crown molding is made of wood, and must be sanded in order to properly take stains and paints. While sanding the molding is not complicated, there is more to it than simply rubbing a random piece of sandpaper against it.


Instructions


1. Cut a piece of 80-grit sandpaper to fit your sanding block. The 80-grit sandpaper is very coarse and will remove any texture left behind by routers and other milling tools used to create the molding.


2. Crown molding should be sanded lengthwise, with the grain.








Clamp the sandpaper into the sanding block to sand flat surfaces. This will be much easier on your hands than simply holding the sandpaper and rubbing it against the wood. Sand with smooth, even strokes, following the grain of the wood as much as possible. Change the sandpaper often.


3. Wrap the sandpaper around a section of foam pipe insulation or pool noodle, to more easily sand curved areas. This will allow more even pressure to the entire surface than is possible when sanding by hand.


4. Wrap the sandpaper around putty knives and screwdrivers to access small nooks and crannies.


5. Switch to 120-grit sandpaper once the entire surface has been sanded with 80-grit. Sand the entire surface again to begin refining and polishing the surface.








6. Repeat the above steps, using 180-grit sandpaper.

Tags: entire surface, 80-grit sandpaper, must sanded, sanding block, sandpaper around, than simply, This will
at

Monday, December 13, 2010

Restaurant Ceiling Treatments







When redecorating a restaurant, don't forget the ceiling.


Though most people tend to look at walls and furnishings when visiting a restaurant, a nicely decorated ceiling can be just the thing to add that finishing touch to your stylish dinning room or bar. Ceiling treatments can also help with noise in your restaurant by keeping the noise from disturbing your neighbors or customers. In either scenario, exploring the many varieties of restaurant ceiling treatments can alleviate your noise problems and beautify your establishment.


Wooden Treatments


Wooden ceiling treatments come in varied designs.


If you own or operate a restaurant with a rustic theme or atmosphere, wooden ceiling treatments can enhance a forest or cabin-like atmosphere. Leaving wooden ceiling beams exposed and refinishing them in natural wood grain colors adds a natural look that compliments high ceilings, angled ceilings and rustic decors. For a more modern look, add honeycomb-shaped wooden treatments to add contemporary style to a flat ceiling.


Soundproofing nd Acoustics


If you are renovating a restaurant that is typically noisy due to the acoustics of the room or are an establishment that offers entertainment that may disturb upstairs neighbors, soundproof or absorptive material ceiling treatments can be of help in controlling reverberation. Carpeting only absorbs about 20 to 35 percent of noise, and the majority of noise control is achieved within the ceiling treatment. Using acoustical ceiling treatments made of soft and porous materials can reduce noise and evenly distribute sound.


Temporary Treatments


When you rent out your restaurant for banquets, parties or special events, clients often request additional decor to fit the theme or occasion of the event. If you need to turn a casual dining area into an elegant reception hall, temporary ceiling treatments can afford you the versatility to decorate each event accordingly with no permanent commitment to any single decor. Drape linens, strings of tube lights and artificial floral arrangements in colors of your client's choice to transform a plain ceiling into an eye catching and decorative work of art.








Mirrors


A mirrored ceiling can enhance a restaurant. Whether you choose to install a few staggered panels or completely line your ceiling with mirrors, the overhead reflections will add an almost subliminal feeling of motion as your guests pass through the room. Overhead mirrors may also add the illusion of height to low ceilings and reflect light in dimly-lit rooms.


Light Fixtures and Fans


You may typically associate fans and lights with comfort and necessity, but decorative ceiling fans and light fixtures can make a significant difference in the atmosphere of the room. Strategically placed ceiling fans not only increase ventilation but can also incorporate a somewhat 'sectioned-off' feel to the room when tables are placed beneath each fan or row of fans. Light fixtures can be purchased or designed to match your decor, and you can adjust the light illuminated to create just the ambiance you--or your customers--prefer.

Tags: ceiling fans, ceiling treatments, ceiling treatments, ceiling treatments, wooden ceiling, your restaurant
at