Repair A Small Hole In The Ceiling

Unless you're making a skylight, you should repair ceiling holes.

Patching a small hole in the ceiling is just as easy as fixing one in the wall--neither requires any special skill, except that, in this case, you have to work at a unique angle. So the next time someone bounces a ball a little too high in the house or loses control of a lance on the way to the Renaissance Fair, don't worry. You've got it covered.

Instructions

1. Carve or scrape away stray pieces of material hanging down from the hole so that the work surface is flat.

2. Scoop out some of the drywall compound with the putty knife--an amount about the size of a large cherry tomato--and push it into the hole far enough that it stays on its own, but not so far that it disappears.

3. Cut off a piece of the mesh joint tape with the utility knife, enough to fit over the hole and to extend past it for an inch on both sides. Stick it over the filled hole. Alternatively, cut off two pieces to form an x shape over the hole, making sure that the pieces extend an inch in every direction when they're taped to the ceiling.

4. Use the paintbrush to lightly coat the surface of the tape with the joint compound. Leave the ceiling to dry completely.

5. Sand off any rough or uneven spots with the sanding sponge. Clean off the dust with the dried paintbrush so that the next coat will keep better contact with the ceiling.

6. Apply another thin coat of the joint compound, but this time, extend it further away from the hole for 2 or 3 inches in all directions. Let the compound dry thoroughly before sanding--it might take a little longer since it's a larger area. Wait until you're sure it's ready, and sand down the surface again so that it's flat with the ceiling.

7. Using paint the same color as the ceiling, apply two coats to the area. Allow each layer of paint to dry for 12 hours.

Tags: from hole, joint compound, over hole, tape with, with ceiling

Estimate A Ceiling Grid

Ceiling grids are normally found in older homes and in basements. They are a popular alternative to drywall and offer a much more unique look to any ceiling. Typically these ceiling grids come in 2-by-2-foot pieces or more commonly 2-by-4-foot pieces. Either way, calculating for these ceiling grids is the first step on the way toward having them installed. Estimating how many ceiling grids will be needed is a task any homeowner with a tape measure and a calculator can take on.

Instructions

1. Measure the width of the room with a tape measure, followed by the length. Record these measurements on a piece of paper. For rooms that are not completely square, it is necessary to measure each little nook and side and record those measurements as well.

2. Multiply the length by the width to determine the total number of square feet. For a 10-by-12-foot room the total square feet will be 120.

3. Decide on which size tiles will be used. This will determine how many will be needed. For a 120 square foot room, 15 2-by-4-foot tiles will be needed to cover the entire area and 30 2-by-2-foot tiles would be needed. Always add an extra tile or two when purchasing in case any need to be cut or are damaged during installation.

4. Total up the square footage for any other size room, even if it is not perfectly square. Multiply the width by the length once again and record the total. For a room that is 10-by-13.5 foot, the total square feet would be 135 square feet. Divide that number by eight to get the number of 2-by-4-foot tiles that will be needed. In this case, the number is 16.875, meaning 17 tiles will be needed and one tile will need to be cut to fit to size.

5. A room with more than four sides will need to be divided into boxes and multiplied together. If the room is 10-by-12 foot with a smaller nook that is 2-by-3 foot multiply 10 by 12 to get 120 and 2 by 3 to get 6. Add the two together to get 126 square feet and divide by 8 to get the number of 2-by-4-foot tiles needed. In this case, the number is 15.75, meaning 16 tiles will need to be purchased and one will need to be cut.

Tags: square feet, will needed, tiles will, will need, 2-by-4-foot tiles

Installation Instructions For A Ceiling Grid

Conventional ceiling grid installations are an ideal solution for basement ceilings because they allow easy access to plumbing, duct work and wiring. It is easier to remove a few tiles damaged from water leaks from above than to remove and replace drywall with all the related finishing and painting required. Ceiling tile can come in several finishes including faux tin, which is paintable and impervious to water damage.

Conventional Ceiling Grid

Conventional ceiling grids are interlocking metal frames suspended from the ceiling joists with wire. Molding or L-shaped brackets are installed around the perimeters of the room for the main runners to rest on. The cross members interlock with the main runners to form a pattern of openings that the ceiling tile drops into. The grid system will accommodate either a 2-by-4 foot tile or a 2-by-2 foot tile. The basic construction is the same.

Install Conventional Ceiling Grid Molding

This type of grid requires a minimum of 4 inches of clearance below the existing joist or ceiling for clearance to tilt the ceiling tile into place. An additional 2 inches will be required if installing full panel fluorescent ceiling lighting.

Measure from the existing ceiling or joist and mark the perimeter walls for the depth needed for the type of installation chosen. Measure in several places on each wall; use a level to connect the marks. The molding or L brackets will be nailed to this line. Nail the molding to the wall with nails, being careful not to damage the molding with hammer marks. Butt the ends of the molding together where more length is required. Do not overlap. At inside corners, run the first molding tight into the corner and butt the molding for the adjacent wall into the first. Use tin snips to miter the molding on outside corners.

Install Runners and Cross Members

Determine the spacing of the runners to avoid ending up with a narrow opening on one side of the room. The room is balanced if the spacing of the grid is the same distance from the wall on both sides of the room. Measure across the room and divide by the tile length to arrive at the number of full tiles to fit the space. Determine the perimeter gap by subtracting the sum of the panel measurement from the room measurement. For example, if the balance remaining is 20 inches, arrange the runners to leave a 10-inch opening on each wall. Start the first runner 10 inches from each wall. Follow the same procedure in the opposite direction for the cross members.

Measure out from the starting wall the determined distance for the first spacing from the wall and snap a chalk line on the ceiling or joist. This is the placement for the first runner. Measure from this line the length of the panels and snap another chalk line. Continue until all runner lines are marked.

To support the runners, screw small eye bolts into the ceiling or joist above each runner approximately 4 feet apart. Insert 16-gauge wire through the eye bolts and twist the short end around the long end two or three times. Stretch a string tightly across the room to aid in leveling the runners. Install the runners and push the end of the wires through the nearest hole in the runner and twist to hold it level with the string. The runners have openings and tabs to snap into each other on long runs. Install an additional eye bolt and support wire at these joints.

Install the cross tees by snapping into the openings in the long runners.

Install Ceiling Tile

Use a sharp utility knife to cut the ceiling tile. Always cut with the face side of the tile up. Tilt the ceiling tile with one edge up toward the ceiling and the other edge toward the flange in the ceiling grid. Carefully work the tile into place so that all four sides are flat in the grid.

Tags: ceiling joist, each wall, Measure from, across room, ceiling tile, chalk line, Conventional Ceiling Grid

Decorate Bathroom Shelves With Towels

Rolled towels with a flower accessory add a spa feel to a bathroom.

Decorating with fluffy, crisp towels can really freshen up a bathroom. While many bathroom upgrades are costly, decorating with towels is a simple and inexpensive way to give your bathroom a luxurious feel. Nice hotels and spas often roll or fold towels in a decorative way before placing them on a shelf. These techniques can be used with many different types of sizes of towels to add some d cor to your bathroom shelves.

Instructions

Towel Rolls

1. Gather three bath towels of a color that coordinates with your bathroom d cor. For example, if your bathroom is white, use a bright color to stand out. If your bathroom is painted a color, white towels stand out against painted walls.

2. Lay out a bath towel on a flat surface. Fold the towel in half lengthwise. Next fold one-third of the towel in toward the center, and then fold the other third. Smooth out the towel and begin to roll from one end. Make sure to roll the towel tightly. Repeat with the other two towels.

3. Place the towels on the shelf and add any final touches you desire. You could simply place the towels on the shelf in the shape of a pyramid with two towels on bottom and one on top. If you want to add some decorative items to the towels, place the towels in the pyramid shape and wrap ribbon, raffia or twine around them. Tie the knot above the top towel and place a seashell, flower or other decorative item on top of the knot. You could also put the rolled towels in a wicker basket and then place the basket on the shelf.

Towel Folds

4. Select a bath towel and washcloth of the same color and a hand towel in a different, yet complementing, color. A bath towel is often the largest towel used in a bathroom. A hand towel is smaller, and a washcloth is typically the smallest.

5. Fold the bath towel into thirds lengthwise. The towel should now be in a long, thin panel. Then fold it into thirds widthwise. Do this by folding one of the short sides of the panel into the center and then folding the other short side into the center. Make sure the tag is tucked in. The towel should now be folded into a rectangle.

6. Fold the hand towel into thirds lengthwise. Then wrap the hand towel around the middle of the bath towel. The two ends of the hand towel should be placed under the bath towel. The weight of the bath towel keeps the hand towel in place.

7. Fold the washcloth into thirds. Then wrap the washcloth around the middle of the hand towel. The two ends of the wash cloth should be placed under the hand towel to secure it in place. The hand towel and wash cloth should now look like a bow wrapped around the bath towel.

8. Place the towels and washcloth on the shelf. If you have more than one shelf, you could do a mix of folds and rolls on different shelves. For example, on one shelf, place a wicker basket filled with rolled towels, and on the shelf above it place the folded towels.

Tags: hand towel, bath towel, your bathroom, into thirds, towel should, towels shelf

Dry Suspended Ceilings

Suspended ceilings are common in areas where a good looking ceiling is desired at a reasonable cost. Made of lightweight fiber tiles, they are designed to sit down into a metal support frame mounted to the upper rafters of a building. Wet tiles are easily damaged, prone to discoloration and more susceptible to mold formation. In order to dry the ceiling it is first necessary to remove the individual wet tiles.

Instructions

1. Push up gently on one end of a wet suspended ceiling panel and angle it so it comes down through the support grid. Remove all wet tiles in this manner, and use care so as not to damage the more delicate wet tiles at all during removal.

2. Lay plastic sheeting out on a level surface. A warm location but not in direct sunlight is ideal, preferably a sturdy wood table or concrete floor.

3. Place the tiles onto the plastic so the exposed face during installation is face up, with at least 1 inch between to allow airflow between the tiles. Don't have the tiles touching any part of another tile and ensure that they are completely flat.

4. Fill a spray bottle half full with liquid bleach and the other half with clean water. Shake the bottle vigorously and then spray the surface of each ceiling tile just enough to moisten the face. This helps eliminate the chances of mold forming.

5. Set an electric hair dryer on a medium hot setting and hold it roughly 6 inches from the tile face. Move it slowly back and forth over the surface repeatedly until it begins to dry out. When the tile is mostly dry, flip it over and dry the other side.

6. Lift the tiles back into place vertically through the opening in the suspension frame. Turn the tile horizontally and suspend it with the tips of your fingers as you slowly lower it into place on the grid.

Tags: into place

Change A Stop Lamp Switch

Replace a stop lamp switch.

A do-it-yourself auto mechanic must not only be mechanically inclined, but he must possess a degree of electrical aptitude as well. An ignition and brake lamp circuit commonly need of a tweak or adjustment and often prove to be overwhelming to a mechanic unfamiliar with either system. Of the two systems, the stop lamp switch is probably the component most likely to require an adjustment or replacement every few years.

Instructions

Replace a Stop Lamp Switch

1. Disconnect the negative (black) battery terminal using either a 5/16 wrench or socket head wrench, depending on the type of battery terminal used.

2. Locate the stop lamp switch. The stop lamp switch will be located close to the pivot point of the brake pedal arm. A 5/16 nut and jam nut secure the stop lamp switch firmly in the switch holder.

3. Depress the brake pedal by hand to ensure the appropriate switch has been located. If the depressed brake pedal releases the button on the stop lamp switch, the correct switch has been identified.

4. Disconnect the two-wire electrical plug connected to the back of the switch and move aside.

5. Remove the 5/16 inch nut securing the stop lamp switch to its bracket using a 3/8 inch wrench.

6. Slide the stop lamp switch out of its bracket. Take note of the position of the second nut located on the switch before removing it. It is the approximate position the nut will be placed on the new switch.

7. Install the nut just removed from the old switch on the new switch by hand to approximately the same position as on the old switch.

8. Insert the new stop lamp switch into the switch bracket. Install the first 5/16 nut onto the switch to secure it in place while holding switch in place with one hand. Use the 3/8 inch wrench to tighten the nut in place.

9. Connect the two-wire electrical plug onto the new stop lamp switch. The connector will plug into the switch in only one direction.

10. Depress the brake by hand and observe the switch operation as the brake is released from the switch plunger.

11. Reconnect the negative battery terminal to the battery using either a 5/16 inch wrench or socket head wrench depending on the type of battery terminal.

12. Turn ignition key on and function test the brake to ensure brake lights are operable.

Tags: lamp switch, stop lamp switch, battery terminal, stop lamp, stop lamp switch, brake pedal, inch wrench

Drop A Recessed Light

Sometimes it is necessary to drop a recessed light from the ceiling to change a bulb or work on the electrical wiring. The method for dropping a recessed light depends upon the type of lighting you have. Smaller eye lights and halogen lights must be removed frequently to change bulbs, and they are designed to be pulled from the ceiling. Canned lighting, on the other hand, does not need to be removed often and requires a bit more work to drop it from the ceiling.

Instructions

Standard Recessed Lights with Halogen Bulbs

1. Turn off the circuit breaker that powers the recessed lighting system. Set up a step ladder under the recessed light you want to drop.

2. Look for screws securing the outer trim to the ceiling. Remove the screws with a Phillips screwdriver, if your lights use securing screws.

3. Turn the trim piece counterclockwise, if no screws are visible. Once the trim is loose from the ceiling, the recessed light will drop down for bulb removal.

4. Pull straight down on the trim piece if it doesn't turn and has no screws. Usually if you have a trim piece that pulls straight down, the recessed light fixture drops down at the same time to provide access to the halogen bulb.

Canned Recess Lights

5. Pull the trim piece away from the ceiling. Some canned lights use two screws to secure the trim piece. Remove the screws with a Phillips screwdriver.

6. Shine a flashlight between the edge of the canned fixture and the hole in the ceiling. Look for the spring clips securing the can to the ceiling.

7. Squeeze your fingers in between the can and the ceiling hole until you are able to push the spring clips toward the center of the can. If there is not enough room for your fingers, insert two flat rulers or pieces of shim to push the spring clips inward.

8. Pull the canned lighting fixture out of the ceiling slowly while keeping the spring clips pushed toward the center of the can.

Tags: from ceiling, trim piece, recessed light, spring clips, Phillips screwdriver, push spring, push spring clips

Drop A Ceiling To Reduce The Noise

A drop ceiling, also referred to as a suspended ceiling or dropped ceiling, is a secondary ceiling installed below the main ceiling. A dropped ceiling allows previously exposed plumbing, duct and electrical work to remain accessible for repairs and also offers a greater soundproofing ability than a traditional drywall ceiling. Multiple companies offer prefabricated drop ceiling packages in a variety of materials and styles, leaving only the installation to the homeowner.

Instructions

1. Determine the height of the suspended ceiling by measuring from existing ceiling joists. Measure four inches down from the joists and mark the wall. Use the marks as a guide and draw a chalk line around three sides of the room using the 4-foot level.

2. Install the perimeter molding with the top of the molding on the chalk line. Use 6d nails to secure the perimeter, avoiding scuffing the surface of the molding with a hammer. Cut lengths of molding to fit using tin snips or extend pieces by butting the ends together. Butt end pieces tightly together at inside corners. For outside corners, make a mitered joint by cutting the pieces at 45 degree angles and securing in place with 6d nails.

3. Install the main runners perpendicular to the joists and four feet apart, marking the distance with chalk. Use string to create a level for the runners by stretching it tightly across the room at 8-foot intervals. The string should align with the bottom of the perimeter molding.

4. Screw small eyebolts into every third joist marked with chalk. String a piece of 16-gauge wire through the eyebolt, twisting it at least three times around itself. Lay the runner in the perimeter molding and lower it until it touches the string. When the runner meets wire, thread the wire through the nearest hole in the runner and twist the wire around itself at least three times to secure the runner. Continue installing the main runners in this fashion.

5. Secure the cross Ts to the main runners every two feet by hooking the ends into slots on the main runners. If you are using 2-by-2 panels, install the 2-foot connectors which run parallel to the main runners and fit in slots in the cross Ts.

6. Install the ceiling panels in the center of the grid to help square the assembly. Then connect the pieces of the grid to the perimeter molding. Factory pieces will hook into slots on the runner and cross tee beams, while ends you have cut will rest on top of the perimeter molding. After the pieces are connected, install the remaining panels.

Tags: main runners, perimeter molding, around itself, ceiling dropped, ceiling dropped ceiling

Fun Bathroom Ideas

Your bathroom can be that one-of-a-kind room full of spunk that is the topic of conversation among your friends, even through inexpensive decorating ideas that can be accomplished in no time.

Fun Kids Bathrooms

You can make a children's bathroom into an educational place to be. A shower curtain that is an map of the United States, with the names of the states and their capitols, will offer a jump start in learning. Have the wallpaper be an atlas of the world. This mapped bathroom will have your children be experts in geography in no time.

A kid's bathroom can be a tropical fish paradise, starting with wallpaper with various types of colorful tropical fish all over it. You can purchase fish that hang from the ceiling, such as on a fish mobile. Surrounding the room in this aquatic art will give you the feeling of being in a fish tank when you walk through the door.

Adult Bathrooms

A lively bathroom for adults can be accomplished with walls full of news. You can order copies of the front page of newspapers for days that were important in history. There are web sites that offer this service. Frame them and hang them for decor and amusement. Purchase the front page from the days that you and your family members were born. Decorate this bathroom in black and white, in keeping with a newspaper theme.

Create a stormy bathroom with a mural painting of a beach scene with a threatening sky and gray, choppy water with white caps on the waves. Curtains can be a wedge wood blue, plain and unassuming, so as to not take away from the painting. Have nautical or sea accessories, such as seashells, scattered about. Driftwood can frame the mirror. Use thick rope as molding separating the wall from the ceiling. You can have a mural painted in your bathroom depicting the fury of any one of Nother Nature's events: a tornado in a open field, a raging river or a bolt of lightning over the prairie.

If painting a mural is not something in your skill repertoire, try calling a local college art department and inquire about hiring an art student, but ask for a small painting of your idea first.

You can make the bathroom look like a library; after all, it is one of people's favorite reading spots. Paint a mural or hang wallpaper depicting shelves of books. Accent this look with tangible reading material handy in magazine racks. You can go with the antique look and have the old candle holders with candles placed throughout the bathroom.

Tags: days that, from ceiling, front page, tropical fish

Dress Up Ceiling Fan Glass Shades

Most homes have ceiling fans, and oftentimes ceiling fans add an extra touch to your home décor theme. Most ceiling fans, it seems, offer standard clear or frosted glass shades, and ones that are colored or decorative cost a pretty penny more. What if you would like your ceiling fan glass shades to be a bit more decorative without a heavy price tag? You can easily dress up ceiling fan glass shades yourself to look like stained glass with a bit of innovation and creativity and without the added expense.

Instructions

1. Prepare the area upon which you are going to work by spreading newspaper over it. This ensures that you do not accidentally drip paint onto any surface that you do not want stained. Put the ceiling fan glass shades on the newspaper.

2. Dip the fine-tipped paintbrush in the black stained glass paint and draw outlines and patterns onto the ceiling fan glass shades. You will stain inside the outlines. Use stained glass stencils instead if you would rather not draw your own outlines; simply stick them onto the glass in the arrangement that you wish.

3. Rinse the paintbrush by swirling it in a cup of water. Apply stain within the outlines by dipping the paintbrush in a stained glass color and painting within one area of the outline before rinsing the paintbrush and repeating the process.

4. Fill in all areas until all the ceiling fan glass shades are stained. Allow them to dry completely, and then replace them on your ceiling fan.

Tags: ceiling glass, glass shades, stained glass, ceiling fans, ceiling glass shades, ceiling glass shades, your ceiling

Use A Drywall Jack To Drywall Ceilings

A drywall jack helps attach drywall to ceilings.

Installing drywall on a ceiling is not a one-person job. One piece of drywall can weigh up to 100 pounds. This is why a drywall jack or lift is a must when attaching drywall to a ceiling. These can be rented from your local home improvement store at an hourly or daily rate that will be well worth the cost. This device can also be used to hang the upper piece of drywall on walls. Once the drywall is loaded onto the jack, the crank will do the lifting for you and hold the drywall in place while you secure it.

Instructions

1. Assemble the lift if need be. The base consists of three prongs with locking wheels. Fit the telescoping pole with the crank assembly attached into the center pole support of the base. Slip the cradle into the top of the pole to hold the drywall in place. The cradle usually has grips or support hooks to keep the drywall from sliding once it is placed on the cradle.

2. Lock the wheels of the lift. Place a sheet of drywall on the cradle so that the edge is resting on the support hooks. The finished side of the drywall should be facing the center of the lift.

3. Tilt the cradle so the drywall is parallel to the ceiling. Lock it in place. Unlock the wheels. Roll the lift into the approximate position for installation. Lock the wheels.

4. Turn the crank until the drywall is about half an inch from the ceiling. If necessary, unlock the wheels and adjust the position of the lift so that the drywall is in the desired location. Lock the wheels. Turn the crank until the drywall is pressed firmly against the ceiling framing. Lock the crank on the lift.

5. Move the stepladder into position. Drill screws through the drywall and into the ceiling joists using a drywall screwdriver or an electric drill. The screws should be no more than 1 foot apart.

6. Unlock the crank and lower the drywall lift. Unlock the wheels and move the lift to the next position. Install the next sheet of drywall.

Tags: Lock wheels, crank until, crank until drywall, drywall ceiling, drywall place, hold drywall

Make A Modern Kitchen Nook

With a little creativity and a can-do attitude, you can turn that unused space in your kitchen into welcoming and stylish modern nook. With the use of furnishings and decorative accessories, you can create an inviting space in your kitchen in which to enjoy a small meal or sit back and relax with a cup of coffee and a newspaper. Choose elements that speak to modern design, making this space not only comfortable, but a chic addition to your kitchen.

Instructions

1. Paint the walls in the nook a different color from the rest of the kitchen to separate the area. Choose colors that coordinate with the kitchen's color scheme or a separate color to make the space stand out. For example, if your kitchen is white, you can choose a bold, eye-catching color to make the nook an inviting space, such as lime green, bright yellow or burnt orange.

2. Place an area rug on the floor of the nook to delineate the space. Choose a solid-colored shag or rattan area rug. Alternatively, choose an area rug that features a modern design, such as geometric prints.

3. Furnish the space with streamlined, modern pieces, such as a lacquered or glass-topped table with chrome legs, or a small table set for two. In particular, pieces that possess straight lines and metal or glass accents will imbue the area with modern appeal.

4. Decorate the table with accents in a modern style. Whenever possible, select pieces in bold or monochromatic colors, like stainless steel or brightly colored glass vases, or glass bowls filled with colorful glass marbles. For an understated look, place a single piece in the center of the table, or, for more interest, set a collection of items in a symmetrical layout on the center of the table.

5. Display a piece of modern art on one of the walls in the kitchen nook. A large splatter painting or black-and-white photograph of a single flower will add simple yet dramatic impact to the space.

6. Install a decorative chandelier or pendant lamp over the table to illuminate the space.

Tags: your kitchen, center table, color make, inviting space, modern design, space your

Apply Bronze Finish To Chrome

Create a bronze look with craft paints instead of using expensive replating.

In order to truly change a chrome finish to a bronze finish, you would need to strip the chrome and have the item replated with bronze. This requires a specialist and can be expensive. Instead, you can create a faux bronze finish on a chrome item. Since chrome is such a slick surface, you'll need to start with a primer to make sure the paint you apply will stick. Then you'll create a bronze look using craft paint.

Instructions

1. Clean the chrome thoroughly. Apply a layer of shellac-based primer/sealer to the chrome with the foam roller. Use the foam brush to apply primer/sealer in any corners or hard-to-reach areas. Allow it to dry 45 minutes.

2. Slightly dampen each clean rag. Squirt bronze acrylic paint onto one half of a paper plate and brown acrylic paint onto one half of a second paper plate. Dip one rag into the brown paint and pat off the excess. Then pat the rag randomly onto the primed surface. Dip the second rag into the bronze paint and repeat the process. Continue layering the paint until you get the level of texture you want. End with a bronze layer. Allow the item to dry overnight.

3. Apply a coat of clear shellac with the paintbrush. Allow the shellac to dry. Rub the shellac with steel wool in light, small circles until you have decreased the shine of the shellac to the level you want. Wipe the item with a clean cloth as you go to remove any dust or particles.

Tags: acrylic paint, acrylic paint onto, bronze finish, bronze look, onto half

Install A Ceramic Ceiling In A Tile Shower

Complete your shower with a ceramic tile ceiling.

Building and installing your own shower is a great way to save money on contractors. A tiled shower will protect the walls from any moisture, preventing the growth of mold and bacteria. Using ceramic tile on the ceiling of your tile shower unit is the simplest way to provide a waterproof surface that will repel water as well as the surrounding walls do. Installing a ceramic tile shower ceiling is a rewarding project that you can show off for years to come.

Instructions

1. Use a measuring tape to find the length and width of the shower ceiling. Multiply these two numbers and you will have the area of the ceiling. Purchase as many tiles as you need to cover the area, plus 10 percent more. This takes into account any damage to the tiles during installation.

2. Snap a chalk line on the ceiling, across the width of the shower area. Use a T-square to ensure that the line is perpendicular to the wall. Snap an intersecting chalk line on the ceiling, across the length of the shower area. Use the T-square to make sure that it is perpendicular to both the wall and the intersecting line. These lines will serve as a guide when you lay your first tile.

3. Mix the thin-set mortar according to the instructions on the package. Only mix as much thin-set as you can use in a half hour, so that it does not dry out and become brittle.

4. Use the smooth edge of the notched trowel to spread a layer of thin-set mortar on the ceiling, using the two intersecting chalk lines as a guide. Spread enough to cover the space of several tiles.

5. Use the notched edge of a trowel to go over the mortar you have spread. This will make grooves in the mortar, which will help the tiles adhere to the ceiling via suction.

6. Lay the first tile at the intersection of the two chalk lines. Apply firm and even pressure with both hands, using a slight wiggle to push any air bubbles from the grooves you made in the mortar.

7. Add plastic tile spacers on all sides of the tile. Continue spreading mortar and laying tiles until your reach a wall or a fixture.

8. Make straight cuts in the tiles by using a wet tile saw. Mark the cutting line on the tile, using a wax crayon and straightedge. Push the tile into the rotating saw blade and follow the line you made until the tile comes apart.

9. Make curved lines so the tile will fit around fixtures. Mark the curve with a wax crayon, then use the tile scriber to etch a line into the surface of the tile over the wax line. Chip away bits of the tile with the tile nippers, until all that is left is the curve to fit around the fixture.

10. Mix the grout according to the instructions on the package. Use the rubber float to spread the grout into the spaces between the tiles. Use a damp cloth to wipe away any excess grout from the tile surface.

11. Allow the grout to cure. Use a damp cloth, wiping with a circular motion, to remove any haze left by the grout.

Tags: ceramic tile, according instructions, according instructions package, area T-square, ceiling across, ceramic tile ceiling, chalk line

Do Drywall Ceiling Design

Create unique ceiling drywall designs with the use of various tools and design methods.

Drywall is the material that is used to texture and decorate ceilings and walls. Also known as sheet rock in the trade, drywall comes in various levels of thickness and finishes that provide structure and enhance visual appeal in a room. Creating different drywall designs requires slightly different application methods. Some popular designs include popcorn, twirl and skim.

Instructions

1. Apply popcorn drywall layer with a hopper gun, which is often available for rent at hardware supply stores. Wait until the popcorn layer dries then apply an additional coat. Mix glitter into the drywall mix in the gun to get a deco look. Popcorn drywall design was popularized in the late 1970s and can still be seen in new construction today. Ask the rental store clerk for a hopper gun demonstration, though they're fairly easy to use.

2. Use a trowel to create a "swirl" drywall design. A trowel is a flat blade attached to a handle resembling a putty knife. Smooth the joint compound over the ceiling in a swirling motion. Overlap each application to create a swirling finish. Use a paint brush over your application to create a more ornamental swirl design.

3. Create a "skim" coat by applying a very thin coat of joint compound. Spread the compound evenly with a trowel over the entire ceiling to achieve a plaster look. Push the paint bristles straight up and pull away from the ceiling to create a skim finish.

Tags: application create, drywall design, drywall designs, joint compound

Install Paneling To Drywall

Professionally applied paneling is predicated on proper preparation.

Installing paneling over existing drywall is a fairly straightforward process. As with most building projects, proper planning and preparation will make it easier for you to get professional looking results. The preparation phase of the project may take longer than the process of actually installing the paneling, but it will be time well spent. A few extra hours preparing at the beginning of your project can make the difference between results that will last for years and a job that needs to be redone in a few months.

Instructions

1. Stack your paneling in the room where it will be applied. Allow it to sit for at least three days before installation. Wood paneling will contract and expand with changes in temperature and humidity. It is a good practice to allow it to adjust to room conditions before installation.

2. Clean your drywall. The surface of the drywall must be free of loose dirt or oil for proper adhesion. Textured walls must be sanded smooth and all dust removed with a vacuum before your paneling can be installed.

3. Remove all switch plates and outlet covers from the walls before you begin paneling. You'll replace them after your paneling is complete. Removing them all before paneling will make it easier to get accurate measurements for the necessary cutouts.

4. Trim the top and bottom of the first panel to leave a 1/4-inch gap between the ceiling and the floor. Turn the panel face down when trimming with a circular saw or saber saw. When using a table saw, trim with the panel face up. The blade should cut into the finished face of the paneling to prevent tear-out and chipping on the finished side of your panels. The gaps allow the panels to expand without buckling the walls during periods of high humidity. Cover the gaps with molding after all of your paneling is in place.

5. Measure and cut any necessary cutouts.

6. Place the first piece of paneling in a corner of two walls. Use a level to check the outer edge of the first panel. This must be plumb, or the remaining panels will necessarily be crooked. Trim the inside edge (the edge in the corner) of the panel, if necessary, to allow the panel to hang properly. Once you are satisfied with the fit, remove it from the wall and place it face-down on the floor.

7. Use a caulking gun to apply wavy vertical lines of construction adhesive, 16 inches apart to within 3 inches of the top and bottom of the board. Apply a bead of adhesive 3 inches around any opening for outlets as well. Apply a solid bead of adhesive horizontally 3 inches from the top and bottom of the panel.

8. Press the panel in place on the wall. Tap the entire surface of the panel lightly with a rubber hammer to flatten and set the adhesive. You can secure the panel with a small finish nail in each corner if you are using a slow-curing adhesive. You should place these nails where molding will cover them after the molding is installed.

9. Trim and place your remaining panels using the same methods described above. The sides of your panels should be butted together evenly, without gaps. Maintain a 1/4-inch gap at the top and bottom for all panels.

Tags: your paneling, paneling will, adhesive inches, after your, after your paneling, bead adhesive

Types Of Interior Window Trim

Interior window trim can be an attractive addition to any room in the home.

Interior window trim is used to provide a decorative finish for the interior of a window frame, but it also serves the purpose of closing gaps between the window frame and the wall, stopping drafts that may result from a gap. There are different types of window trim available, including wood, plastic, aluminum and plaster. There are various factors to consider when choosing trim, including the interior style of the home, cost, level of maintenance required and how much it may improve the home's efficiency.

Wood Trim

Interior wood trim is also referred to as window casing. While wood trim is not as common as it once was, it can be an attractive option for framing a window. Wood trim can be nailed around the outside of the window and the remaining gaps filled in with caulking. Wood is a natural material that may require the treatment of knots. Wood is versatile in that it can be painted or stained and easily match any color scheme or decor. Common woods used for interior window trim include oak, maple and walnut.

Cellular PVC Plastic

Cellular PVC plastic trim is filled with tiny air bubbles, making the material more lightweight and less expensive to produce. Many modern window frames currently use this material, as it is very durable and does not discolor in sunlight like other plastic types. It does not rot, is not affected by insect attacks and it is waterproof. PVC plastic can be glued around the window frame to the wall. Some varieties have an embossed wood grain side and a smooth side for those consumers who want a choice. PVC plastic can be fairly expensive -- about the same price as a knot-free wood, according to The Family Handyman website. While it does not require painting, it can absorb paint easily.

Aluminum

Aluminum is normally used for exterior trim, but it can also be used for interior window trim, particularly with aluminum window units. It is very durable and long-lasting and does not require much maintenance. On the downside, it is more difficult to work with, as it needs to be cut with a miter saw and bent into shape with special tools. Aluminum trim can be nailed into the window frame using aluminum fixing nails and the gaps can be filled with caulking. Aluminum can be painted or left unfinished.

Plaster

Plaster is a soft and wet substance when it is first mixed. It eventually dries and hardens. For interior window trim, it can either be molded on-site or pre-molded and installed. Often used for curved windows or ornate moldings, it can be used to create attractive historic designs. A common stock molding design is the clamshell, where the outer edge is higher than the inner edge, with a smooth, curved face.

Considerations

When considering new interior trim for a window, it is necessary to take into account the architecture of the room and what style you want the room to have. There are very simple styles available, but consumers can also choose custom-made interior window trim, such as specially carved wood trim elements. Window trim should ideally match that of any door frames in the home. While trim can serve to stop drafts from entering the home, make sure that there is proper insulation around the window.

Tags: window frame, window trim, filled with, interior window, around window, does require

Decorate A Room With Dark Paneling

Paneled walls don't have to be dull.

Whether it's the cheap faux variety or genuine wood, wall paneling presents a design dilemma for homeowners and renters alike. It may seem impossible to decorate a room with paneling -- especially dark paneling -- without tearing it down, but there are a number of less drastic options you might consider to drag your dated abode out of its style slump.

Instructions

1. Paint the paneling. If you own your home or your landlord approves, this is the most versatile option you have to create a new canvas for your room. You might opt to simply prime and paint, or you might first fill in the grooves between the panels with caulk or joint compound and sand the paneling to create a smooth surface. If you decide to fill in the grooves, you then have the option of applying texture to further enhance the surface before painting. Painting paneling involves preparation, including cleaning with powerful chemicals and sanding or applying a deglossing agent. When it's done properly, painting works wonders to disguise ugly paneling.

2. Apply wallpaper. It is possible to completely hide cheap paneling with patterned paper, but like painting, wallpapering requires preparation of the surface. Clean the paneling thoroughly, and then use joint compound and a trowel to fill in the grooves between the panels. Sand to a smooth finish before applying wallpaper. Alternatively, you might apply heavy-duty wallpaper liner to cover the grooves and create a smooth surface before applying wallpaper.

3. Furnish your space in mid-century modern style. If you can't alter the walls, work with what you have. Opt for Scandinavian furnishings. Base your color scheme on nature-inspired hues -- medium-toned green or blue -- and use gray and cream as neutrals. Add some atomic design elements: a large sunburst wall clock or boomerang-shaped accent table. Don't be afraid to mix wood colors; pairing dark paneling with lighter wood furnishings adds interest if you ground the paneling with one substantial piece of furniture in a darker color wood. Cream-colored curtains will break up the expanse of dark paneling.

4. Embrace a '60s or '70s retro look. Green, gold, orange and brown might be part of your color scheme, but you also have the ability to bring vibrant psychedelic hues into your palette. Lay down the foundation with a shag rug, and add a glossy white open shelving unit and a few pieces of organic molded plastic furniture. Selecting glossy white for a few key elements will give your space an authentic look and will act as a stylish contrast with the dark paneling. Hang a white globe lamp to brighten up a dark corner and add a sculptural element. You're safe furnishing your space with a mix of materials, everything from wood and chrome to glass or plastic. Try vinyl upholstered or cushioned rattan furniture, especially peacock chairs, and toss a pile of pillows on the floor. Add a macrame wall hanging to round out the look.

5. Create the cozy feel of a cabin. If your paneling is a more rustic-looking solid wood, you might opt to fill your space with bulkier jewel-toned or leather furniture. Consider a chunky wood table or a bent willow rocker. Accent with a Navajo rug or faux animal hide, and opt for lamps with amber shades to mimic the glow of a campfire. Bring the wilderness in with elements that depict animals and fish common to the North woods.

Tags: your space, fill grooves, paneling with, your space with, applying wallpaper, before applying, before applying wallpaper

Drywall Vs Gypsum

Drywall contains gypsum plaster.

The construction material called drywall is also called gypsum board because most drywall is made with gypsum plaster and thick paper. To finish interior walls, you can either put up drywall or apply layers of gypsum plaster to seal interior walls. There are advantages and disadvantages to both methods. When choosing construction materials to finish interior walls, homeowners should consider the moisture level of their home, the time they have to finish walls and their insulation needs.

Advantages of Drywall

Because drywall is a flat board with plaster already applied, many homeowners find that installing drywall is easier and more cost-efficient than using gypsum plaster. Homeowners can easily install drywall on interior walls using a nail gun and finishing tape that covers up the seams between the boards. Drywall can also be easier to finish using wallpaper or paint, and it is easy to repair if damaged. Modern sheetrock is also fire-resistant and can deaden sound.

Advantages of Gypsum Plaster

The method of plastering interior walls with gypsum plaster, while time consuming, can result in a more durable and solid wall. The layers of plaster inside the wall create a wall that is thick, insulated and resistant to mold growth. Gypsum plaster products are versatile, lightweight and create texture on an interior wall. Plaster can also be easily spread over curved or uneven surfaces unlike drywall, which comes in straight panels. While it may seem like a daunting task for do-it-yourself homeowners, plastering a wall can be easy and result in a striking look.

Disadvantages of Drywall

Because it is made of paper, drywall can absorb moisture, which leads to mold growth. Wall board can also be softer and more easily damaged than a plaster wall. Since drywall is thinner than the layers in a plastered wall, it can be less insulating than a wall finished with plaster.

Disadvantages of Gypsum Plaster

The main disadvantage to gypsum plaster that many homeowners experience is the process of applying plaster. First, it can be difficult to get the right mixture of plaster and water to create the correct consistency. Applying plaster in an even coat can also be difficult if the homeowner doesn't have experience with this sort of construction task. Plaster can also take a long time to dry, especially in humid areas, and it can be less durable than certain types of drywall.

Tags: gypsum plaster, interior walls, Drywall Because, finish interior, finish interior walls

Run Two Ceiling Fans Off Of One Remote Control

Ceiling fan remotes work by sending a wireless signal to a wireless receiver attached to a fan -- the receiver allows electricity to go to the fan's motor so that the blades will rotate. A remote ceiling fan's wireless receiver uses the same channel frequency as that of the remote. To enable a single remote to control two remote ceiling fans simultaneously, change the channel setting on both fans so that they are the same as the channel setting on the remote.

Instructions

1. Stand a ladder beneath one of the two ceiling fans that you want to control with the remote. Place the tip of a flat-edged jeweler's screwdriver against the channel frequency selector switch on the slide of the wireless receiver. Typically the channel selector switch will be next to the power switch on the shaft of the fan just below the ceiling plate.

2. Push the switch with the tip of the flat-edged jeweler's screwdriver so that it now rests against the number "1" setting that is labeled on the side of the switch.

3. Repeat this procedure with the other ceiling fan (that has a wireless receiver) that you want to control.

4. Open the battery compartment lid on the back of the remote. Remove the batteries. Place the tip of a flat-edged jeweler's screwdriver against the switch inside the compartment. Push the switch so that it is now against the "1" setting that is printed inside the compartment. Replace the batteries and close the lid.

Tags: wireless receiver, flat-edged jeweler, flat-edged jeweler screwdriver, jeweler screwdriver, ceiling fans

Install Endmatched Ceiling Paneling

End-matched ceiling paneling looks beautiful in any home.

Ceiling paneling is popular in many homes and cabins. Historically paneling only had a tongue and groove on the sides of each piece. New developments in wood paneling have created end-matched ceiling paneling. This type of ceiling paneling is easy to install, because the ends and sides fit together in a tongue and groove pattern. Learning install end-matched ceiling paneling will help you achieve a professional look.

Instructions

1. Locate the ceiling joists with an electronic stud finder. Mark the ceiling where each joist is located. Snap a chalk line along the joists. Make sure you can see the line for each of the joists on the wall below the ceiling. This is important, because you will be covering the snapped chalk lines on the ceiling with the paneling, as you work.

2. Cut the tongue off the first row of end-matched ceiling paneling. End-matched paneling has a lip tongue and groove design, similar to wood flooring. The tongue will need be trimmed from the first row so that it can sit right against the wall, when installed. Use a table saw to remove the tongue from the row.

3. Nail the pieces of the first row of paneling into place in the ceiling joists, using a nail gun. Fit the ends of the paneling together so that the tongue and groove fit together. Cut the last piece of paneling in the row to size, using a miter saw.

4. Continue installing the end-matched paneling on the ceiling. Work carefully to ensure that the pieces carefully fit together in the tongue and groove system. Nail the pieces to the ceiling joists, where possible. Although you can nail straight through the paneling, end-matched paneling is designed so that you can nail straight through the tongued area of the boards. This makes the nail holes impossible to see once the next row is installed. Finish the ceiling by cutting the last row to size on the table saw and nailing it into place.

Tags: tongue groove, ceiling joists, end-matched ceiling paneling, ceiling paneling, ceiling paneling

Hide A False Wall

False walls can serve several different purposes in a home, from providing framing for home theater elements to concealing unattractive features in a room, such as exposed pipes. These types of walls are usually built with a specific purpose in mind and are less complex to construct than a regular load-bearing wall. If you don't like the appearance of the false wall and removal is not an option, there are several ways you can hide it.

Instructions

1. Hang a curtain over the false wall. Run a curtain wire from one side across the room to the other by threading between two eye hooks and securing the ends with wire-rope clips. Attach curtain clips along the wire, and then hang the curtains. Spread them out until they cover the false wall.

2. Place large pieces of furniture in front of the false wall until it's completely covered. Large armoires, tall bookcases and China cabinets all provide viable options. Request help when moving the big items into place.

3. Cover the false wall with pictures to hide its appearance. False walls are usually made of the same materials as a normal wall and should be able to support framed pictures. Use posters attached with sticky-tack as a frame alternative.

4. Attach a large blanket or piece of fabric over the area that contains the false wall. Start at the top corner, and use a staple gun. Secure the opposite corner before securing the bottoms.

Tags: false wall, False walls, walls usually

Install A Tin Tile Backsplash

A tin tile backsplash can add color and texture to the area behind your kitchen countertops. Tin tile is available in a wide variety of metallic colors to match any décor. There are many raised patterns from which to choose that can add texture to the backsplash. A tin tile backsplash is easy to clean. Because the metal backsplash goes up in larger sections than regular tile, it doesn't take long to install. This is a project that a do-it-yourselfer with carpentry skills can easily finish in a short time.

Instructions

1. Clean the wall where you plan to install the tin tile backsplash and allow it to dry. This will make the glue adhere the metal to the wall better. Protect countertops and appliances with old newspapers. Turn off electrical power to the wall(s) you are covering. Remove the electrical outlet covers.

2. Mark where you need to cut holes in the tin for the outlets. Use a drill to put a hole in each of the four corners you marked. Slip the nose of a pair of tin snips into the drilled holes to cut the outlet hole.

3. Dry fit the tile to make sure it is going to be level. Trim any edges if necessary. Put construction adhesive on the back of the first panel with a caulk gun. Use a putty knife to spread it out to cover the entire panel. Set the panel in place making sure it is straight. Press out any air bubbles.

4. Repeat the process with the next panel. Overlap the panels using the built-in allowance. Join the two adjoining panels with cone head nails that match the tin tile. Also use painter's tape to hold the metal backsplash panels until the construction adhesive sets up. Install the rest of the panels.

5. Put painter's tape on either side of all the edges between the countertop and the backsplash and underneath the cabinets. Apply a bead of clear painter's caulk to seal the edges. Allow the caulk to dry, then paint with a matching color. Remove the painter's tape as soon as you finish painting. Finish the side seams with wood molding stained to match the tin.

Tags: painter tape, construction adhesive, metal backsplash, tile backsplash

Design A 12x12 Living Room

The idea is to make a small living room a cozy living room.

A 12 x 12 room is a compact size for a living room. Even so, there are things you can do to make use of every square inch of space and to make the room feel larger. It all boils down to adequate planning and to your ability to edit what goes into the room. The goal of any good design plan is to make sure that everyone who walks into the space feels comfortable.

Instructions

1. Use a light-reflecting color on the walls. Dark paint absorbs light, making a space feel smaller. A light shade of paint actually reflects light, giving a room a more spacious feel. Any light-reflecting shade will do -- icy blue, pale green or yellow, creamy white, tan, light coffee or violet.

2. Introduce a theme. In the case of a small living room, this means finding a common decorating thread that ties the entire space together. This may be a pattern or specific decorating style that makes the space feel cohesive. For example, you don't want a rustic sofa in the same room as a modern entertainment unit. In a small space, in particular, more than one style is visually confusing and makes the room feel cluttered. Get creative. If you need a television stand that matches that rustic couch, look at the chest of drawers in your bedroom. If it's rustic like the sofa, consider bringing it into the space and removing the modern piece.

3. Use the smallest pieces of furniture you can realistically get by with. Scale is important when it comes to making the most of a small room. An apartment-sized sofa or loveseat will make the room feel more spacious than a large, heavy sofa. It can be tempting to bring in the very same furniture you've been moving from place to place, even if it no longer fits the space. Determine which of those pieces actually fit and edit those out that no longer do. The adage "less is more" absolutely applies to decorating a small room.

4. Arrange furniture so that there's an easy flow of traffic. If it's difficult to walk from one side of the room to the other because an ottoman or other piece of furniture is in the way, you have too many things in the space. It should be easy for you and guests to move freely around the room.

5. Find double-duty purposes for things you bring in. A small bookshelf can double as a sofa table, a small trunk can act as an end table and extra storage space and a low-profile shoe organizer can hold pet or baby toys and slip under the sofa when not in use. Ask yourself if you can use an item in more than one way before you introduce it into the room.

Tags: living room, room feel, into room, into space, make room, make room feel

Ceiling Domes Styles

Ceiling domes recreate the architectural domes of churches and cathedrals.

Ceilings are a primarily functional element of interior design, so adding decorative flair to you ceiling is challenging. Ceiling domes are a budget-friendly ceiling accessory that add visual depth and texture to an otherwise simple element of your space. Ceiling domes are concave bowls that typically accompany hanging lights like chandeliers, but several decorative styles of ceiling domes stand alone as distinctive design pieces.

Round Domes

Symmetrical round domes are the standard shape for ceiling domes. Round domes are available in a range of sizes to complement the surface area of your ceiling. Slightly more elliptical oval-shaped domes are also common choices for ceiling domes. Depending on your budget and the structural needs of your ceiling, you can choose between an installed dome and a surface-mounted dome. Installed domes must be cut into the ceiling and the edges lay flush with the ceiling, whereas surface mounted domes install against the ceiling and jut out slightly. Both styles of round domes may feature scalloping or other flourishes that add decorative detail, but simple, modern domes are also options.

Lighted Domes

Pairing a dome ceiling with a chandelier is one of the more classic options for incorporating a dome into your interior design. Domes that pair with chandeliers come equipped with an additional center medallion that supports the chandelier's wiring and cable or chain. A more modern twist on the traditional lighted dome involves lights installed directly into the dome. Some manufacturers create domes with fiber optic lights or LED lights sprinkled throughout the dome surface to create a night skyscape. The domes may be painted black or navy blue to create a more realistic scene; the domes are suitable options for children's bedrooms and nurseries.

Painted Domes

Domes in the same color as the ceiling add texture and depth without being distracting, but painted domes bring additional visual interest through color to the design element. One of the traditional options for a painted dome is a small-scale recreation of a Renaissance painting like Michelangelo's Sistine Chapel. Domes featuring recreated artwork are reminiscent of the chapels and cathedrals which popularized architectural domes. More contemporary styles of painted domes may include a series of domes in various solid colors like green, yellow or blue. Another option is a painted sky or space scene for a children's bedroom or playroom.

Tags: architectural domes, Ceiling domes, ceiling domes, domes also, interior design, painted domes, round domes

Clean Mold From A Porch Ceiling

Mold is a common problem found inside and outside the house. Anywhere there are damp, dark, and humid areas, you are sure to find mold growing. Porch ceilings typically have some form of mold growth on them. The mold growing on porch ceilings can leave unsightly stains, fill the air with a musty odor, and spread to other areas of your home. That is why it is important to remove the mold from the ceiling as soon as possible.

Instructions

1. Remove all items from your porch, and place them in a safe location. This will prevent the mold removal solution from accidentally dripping on them while you clean the ceiling. Place a tarp on the porch floor to catch any spills or splatters from the cleaning solution. Put on goggles or other eye protection so no dirt or cleaning solution will fall into your eyes.

2. Use a dust mop to mop the porch ceiling. The dust mop will remove any cobwebs, dust, and other debris from the ceiling.

3. Add 2 cups of lukewarm water to a 5-gallon bucket. Mix 1/4 cup of TSP -- trisodium phosphate -- into the water. Fill another 5-gallon bucket with cool water. Set both buckets in your work area.

4. Saturate a sponge mop in the water-TSP mixture. Hold the sponge mop over the bucket, and wring out the excess liquid so the mop is damp but not soggy.

5. Scrub the porch ceiling with the sponge mop. Begin scrubbing the area farthest away from the entrance, and work toward it.

6. Rinse the sponge mop in the water when it becomes dirty. Saturate it with the mixture, wring out the excess, and continue scrubbing the porch ceiling until you have cleaned the entire ceiling.

7. Rinse the sponge mop and buckets with running water.

8. Pour household bleach into a clean bucket. Do not dilute it. Saturate the clean sponge mop with the bleach, and wring out the excess.

9. Give the porch ceiling a pass with the bleach-saturated sponge mop. Allow the bleach to air-dry on the porch ceiling.

10. Rinse the sponge mop once again with running water. Wipe the ceiling down with the clean mop saturated with water. Allow the porch ceiling to air-dry.

Tags: porch ceiling, Rinse sponge, wring excess, 5-gallon bucket, ceiling Rinse, ceiling Rinse sponge

Disguise Wood Paneling

False wood paneling was widely popular a couple of decades ago.

What's often called wood paneling isn't wood at all, but faux-grained sheets with fake seams between the "boards." Homeowners have found ways to disguise it, using joint compound, primer and paint. Learn disguise your wood paneling for a fraction of the cost of replacing your paneling with Sheetrock.

Instructions

1. Carefully take the molding off the wood paneling wall, using a hammer and pry bar.

2. Using a paint roller, cover the wood paneling with painting primer. Get the primer into the grooves of the paneling with a paintbrush. Let the primer dry.

3. Stick fiberglass mesh tape over the paneling's grooves and seams. The mesh tape should stick easily.

4. Apply drywall compound to the fiberglass mesh tape. Cover the tape completely. Let the compound dry completely.

5. Lightly sand the drywall compound with fine-grit sandpaper. Vacuum the wall once you have finished sanding. You may need to apply more compound to smooth it out. If you apply more, sand it again to make sure the wall is smooth.

6. Cover the wall with more primer, and let it dry.

7. Roll or brush on a layer of latex paint and allow it to dry to the touch. Apply a second coat of paint and let it dry for 24 hours before hanging anything on the wall.

8. Reattach the wood molding and trim.

Tags: mesh tape, paneling with, wood paneling, apply more, drywall compound, fiberglass mesh

Drop Ceiling Instructions

Drop ceilings allow access to maintain electrical wiring and plumbing while still providing a finished look. Drop ceilings also have sound-control qualities that a traditional drywall ceiling does not offer. Installing a drop ceiling requires some basic tools and a little time. The finished appearance of a drop ceiling can renovate a room, and put a finishing touch on a basement.

Instructions

1. Measure 4 inches from the ceiling joists and make a mark on the wall. Do this in several locations around the room.

2. Use a level to connect the measurement marks by drawing a line on the wall around the room with a pencil. Use level to ensure that the line stays level while traveling around the room.

3. Use nails to attach the wall angles to the wall. Take care that the bottom of the wall angle lines up with the mark that was created on the wall. Try to use as many of the attachment points in the wall angle as possible.

4. Attach the guide wires to the edges of the wall angles across the room. These wires are the base of the grid for the ceiling.

5. Measure the distance from the floor joists to the guide wire. Cut suspension wires 12 inches longer than this distance. Attach a suspension wire to the ceiling every 4 feet with screw eyes. Stretch each suspension wire so that all of the kinks are removed from the wire. Bend the suspension wire at a 90 degree angle where the suspension wire and the guide wire cross.

6. Snap the end of the main tees into the appropriate slots on the wall angle. Check that they are level. Use the suspension wires to hang the main tees from the joists.

7. Snap the cross tee pieces into the main tees. Continue to place the cross tee pieces until all cross tees have been installed. When completed the grid for the drop ceiling will be established.

8. Install the ceiling panels in the false ceiling by placing once side of the panel into the framework and lifting the panel slightly above the grid.

9. Maneuver the other side of the ceiling panel onto the framework and lower the panel into place on the grid work.

Tags: suspension wire, around room, drop ceiling, main tees, wall angle

Trace A Leak In The Ceiling

Water leaks can cause serious damage in homes and should be traced immediately.

Ceiling leaks are serious problems. If they are ignored, or if the leak is severe, a large part of the ceiling could collapse. If you have noticed water dripping from your ceiling, you need to trace this leak quickly to find the cause and fix it before it can compromise the structure of your home. Ceilings leaks will have one of two causes: roof problems or plumbing problems.

Instructions

Roof Leaks

1. Pay attention to the ceiling when it rains or snows. If you only notice the leaks during adverse weather, this indicate that moisture on the roof is leaking into the attic or crawl space and is seeping through the ceiling.

2. Inspect the attic or crawl space. Locate the spot where water is dripping down. If you notice a hole, stick a pencil or flag through to indicate from the outside where the roof needs to be patched.

3. Check the seals around skylights. These windows often leak if they are not caulked or flashed properly. This is another common cause of ceiling leaks. Apply a fresh bead of caulk around the skylight to prevent more water from dripping down or fix the flashing if it was installed incorrectly.

Plumbing Leaks

4. Observe the ceiling when someone runs water in the bathroom or flushes the toilet. This only applies to two-story homes that have upstairs bathrooms or homes that have plumbing pipes that are routed through the ceiling.

5. Find the pipe that is leaking. Cut away a portion of the ceiling with a utility knife where the leak is occurring. Run the water in the upstairs bathroom again to help you find the leak.

6. Tighten any loose pipe fittings with a pipe wrench. Twist the fittings clockwise to tighten them. If the leak continues, call a professional plumber to fix the pipe. Once the leak is fixed, repair the ceiling.

Tags: attic crawl, attic crawl space, ceiling when, crawl space, dripping down, homes that

Disassemble A Suspended Ceiling Grid

A suspended ceiling grid is basically a metal structure that is hung by wires from the floor joists above. Tiles are placed within the grid to make an attractive ceiling that covers things such as electrical wires and ventilation ducts. If you have a suspended ceiling in your house and you've decided it's time for a change, you can remove it yourself. All it takes is some do-it-yourself skills, a few tools and materials.

Instructions

1. Shut off the electricity to the overhead lighting in the room with the grid. Put on long sleeves and pants, safety goggles and a dust mask to protect yourself.

2. Set up a ladder underneath a corner of the room where you're going to start. Climb up until you can comfortably reach the ceiling without stretching or straining. Move the ladder as you work across the ceiling.

3. Remove the suspended ceiling panels by lifting them up and out of the grid. Tilt them at an angle so you can fit them through the grid and remove them. Stack them on the floor.

4. Disconnect the wiring from the ceiling lights and carefully remove them. Place a wire nut over every loose wire for safety.

5. Secure any ventilation ducts that are within the suspended ceiling grid to the floor joists. Wrap one end of a length of safety wire securely around a duct. Hammer a nail in a joist above and wrap the other end of the wire around it.

6. Cut the wires that hold the suspended grid to the ceiling with a pair of wire cutters. Cut the wires from the grid. Take apart and remove the tees that make-up the grid as they become free.

7. Cut the wires from the floor joists and remove them. Remove the nails or screws that held the track for the suspended ceiling grid in place along the walls.

Tags: suspended ceiling, floor joists, remove them, suspended ceiling grid, wires from, ceiling grid

Build Acoustical Treatments For A Home Theater

Building acoustic treatments for the home theater can dramatically improve imaging and focus.

Acoustic treatments can improve sound in a way that no individual component can. Since treatments affect the acoustic signature of the room after the speakers have reproduced the sound, the sonic signature of the system is maintained. Acoustic panels mitigate the effects of reflections from walls and other surfaces, improving imaging and focus. Making DIY panels is not extraordinarily difficult, using conventional batting, insulation, and wood panels.

Instructions

1. Cut a plywood sheet to the desired size.

2. Cut a 2-by-4 plank to fit the sides of the plywood sheet. Place the cut pieces around the edges of the sheet, forming a frame. Drill a 1/16-inch hole every 6 inches on each section of the frame, penetrating into the sheet's edges.

3. Drive a screw through the drilled holes, attaching the 2-by-4 pieces to the plywood sheet.

4. Cut two sheets of batting and one sheet of insulation to fit within the frame. Make a sandwich of the materials by placing one sheet of batting against the plywood. Follow with a layer of insulation, then place another layer of batting on top. This process allows for a combination of bass absorption and controlled high-frequency reflection.

5. Cut a piece of fabric large enough to wrap entirely around the frame, leaving 6-to-8 inches of material on the back of the plywood. Lay this material flat against the work surface. Place the panel face-down against the fabric. Wrap the selected material tightly around the entire assembly.Staple the excess to the plywood backing, pulling the material tight as you go, to prevent wrinkles.

6. Attach two picture hangers to the back of the panel,--preferably into the edges to hit the 2-by-4 frame--Using wood screws and a drill with a Phillips attachment. Loop the hanger wire around the hooks.

Tags: plywood sheet, imaging focus

Small Half Orange Bathroom Ideas

A bathroom in a half orange shape will appear bigger when decorated in neutral colors.

If your main or guest bathroom is shaped like a half orange (sometimes referred to as a half moon bathroom), decorating the small space in a way that is inviting and complementary can be challenging. Using the shape of the bathroom to your advantage and using the right amount of bold color can turn your half orange bathroom into one of the most impressive features of your home.

Add a Splash of Color

Give the bathroom space one significant "splash" of color to make the area attractive but not overwhelming. For instance, add a bright orange stripe to the center of the wall in a white half-orange bathroom as a nod to the area's shape; adorn the rest of the space with another neutral color that goes well with tangerine, such as medium gray linens on the bathroom cabinet. Or select a hue from the "cool" family, like lime green for the paneling of a pastel gray bathroom. The color is both bright and refreshing and will keep the small bathroom from appearing bland.

Use Light Main Colors

For the main hues of the half-orange bathroom, choose light and modest colors, which gives the room an open look, tricking the eye into thinking that the bathroom is larger than it actually is. If the rest of the house is adorned in warm neutral colors, like tan or light brown, include this color on the walls, toilet and vanity in the bathroom space. Accent the area with pastel linens in a brown basket, or hang a mirror trimmed in brown or golden wood. Neutrals in the cool color family include pastel shades of gray or subdued blue variations. Paint the bathroom slate gray, and add baby blue paneling; further showcase the blue color with a flower arrangement on the vanity, or choose one large area rug in powder or robin's egg blue to offset the gray color.

Choose One Signature Item

Since many half-orange bathrooms are small, select one noticeable signature item to feature in the space. Even if the bathroom isn't extremely small, the shape of the area can serve as decor in itself. For instance, add a tall, slim floor lamp to one end of the space in the bolder of the decor hues you've selected, such as a cherry red lamp in a black, white and red bathroom. Or order a half-moon-shaped vanity for the bathroom area made of distressed wood to match the rest of the smaller, antique-style decor.

Use Metallics

Incorporate metallics into the half-orange bathroom if you don't want to use lots of "color" but are still going for a striking and elegant decorative scheme. If you prefer cool colors, decorate a white or off-white bathroom with a series of silver stripes at the bottom of the half-moon shaped wall. Warm-colored metallics like gold or bronze are attractive on the wall's trimming; toilet covers, bathmats and area rugs in these shades will add refined brightness to a bathroom where a light or demure shade of brown is the main color.

Tags: half orange, half-orange bathroom, bathroom area, bathroom space, neutral colors, vanity bathroom

Fix A Sprung Chain In A Ceiling Fan

Ceiling fans usually have two pull chains. One operates the lights, and the other operates the fan speed. When a pull chain switch spring breaks, you must replace the entire switch. When fixing a sprung chain in a ceiling fan, remove the old one first to purchase the replacement. If you are replacing a fan speed pull chain switch, ensure that you purchase one that handles the correct number of speeds for your fan. You can find replacement switches at home improvement centers and electrical supply stores.

Instructions

Remove Faulty Switch

1. Turn off the circuit breaker to the ceiling fan. Turn the wall switch on and off to ensure that the power is off to the ceiling fan. Set up a stepladder under the fan so that you can reach the housing.

2. Unscrew and remove the light bulbs from the ceiling fan fixture. Turn the screws securing the light bulb covers counterclockwise with your fingers, and remove each of the globes. This makes the housing a little less awkward when removing it from the fan.

3. Locate and remove the three screws securing the lighting canopy to the ceiling fan housing with a Phillips-head screwdriver. Pull the lighting canopy away from the housing until you see the wiring harness connector from the ceiling fan to the lighting canopy. Press the side tabs of the harness with your fingers, and pull the harness connector away from the lighting canopy. Set the canopy out of the way.

4. Find the pull switch inside the ceiling fan housing. Use your electrical touch tester to ensure that the power is off to the fan. Remove the screw securing the faulty pull chain switch to the ceiling fan housing with the Phillips-head screwdriver.

5. Turn the wire nuts connecting the switch wires to the ceiling fan wires counterclockwise with your fingers. Remove the faulty pull chain switch, and take it to a home improvement center for a replacement. Match the new switch up to the old one to ensure that it will mount in your fan. Purchase a switch that has the same number of speeds as your fan if you are replacing the fan speed pull chain switch.

Install New Switch

6. Match like colored wires from the switch to the ends of the wires on the ceiling fan. Insert the ends into the plastic wire nuts, and twist the wire nuts clockwise to secure the wires together. Insert the end of the pull chain through the hole in the side of the housing. Secure the switch to the inside of the housing with the retaining screw.

7. Position the light canopy under the ceiling fan housing. Push the ceiling fan wire harness connector into the plug on the inside of the light canopy. Line up the securing holes for the canopy with the threaded holes on the housing. Secure the canopy to the housing with the retaining screws.

8. Place the globes back into their respective positions, and secure with the thumbscrews. Screw in the light bulbs into the light bulb sockets.

9. Turn the circuit breaker back on to the ceiling fan, and test out your new pull chain switch.

Tags: pull chain, chain switch, pull chain switch, ceiling housing, ensure that

Diagnose Damage To Ceiling Joists

If you remain aware of the problems that face your house, your job is half done. Like a human body, a house suffers if problems are not treated. When you know recognize the signs of problems, you can take care of them in their early stages and avoid future difficulties. Diagnosing damaged ceiling joists is a matter of knowing what symptoms to look for and recognizing whether or not the problems you find are serious.

Instructions

1. Note whether or not the ceiling held up by the joists sags or is uneven or wavy. Also note whether that condition changes over time. Because some ceilings are built imperfectly, a sagging ceiling may not indicate damage to the joists. A ceiling that changes, though, indicates a problem.

2. Inspect all joists in the attic. Use a flashlight to help you see the joists clearly. Move insulation out of the way to get a good look at all sides of the joists. If your house experienced a traumatic event such as a tree fell on the roof, look for cracks and breaks in the joists.

3. Search for signs of rot or decay in the joists. Dry rot and wet rot are the broad names of the two most common kinds. Ceiling joists are more likely to be affected by dry rot than wet rot, unless a leak is in the roof and the joists have been wet a long time. If you find a joist that is crumbly and exhibits white, moldy looking substances on its surfaces, it has dry rot. If a joist is mushy and damp, it has wet rot.

4. Look down the length of the joists to see how straight they appear. Some joists are warped when they are installed. So a non-straight joist is not necessarily a concern unless its condition worsens. A non-straight joist is most likely to happen in a newer house in which the builder used joists that weren't dried properly.

Tags: non-straight joist, your house

Build Ceiling Wood Panels

Cover your ceiling with beautiful wood paneling.

Wood paneling is a unique way to dress up any ceiling in your home. Wood paneling can also cover unsightly ceiling textures or uneven drywall patches. Building a ceiling with wood panels is a time consuming process that can make your arms and body tired. Working with your arms stretched upward and consistently climbing a ladder can wear you out. Avoid burnout by planning several days for your ceiling makeover.

Instructions

1. Scan the ceiling with an electronic stud finder and mark where each ceiling joist is with a pencil. Use a chalk line to lengthen out the pencil marks on the ceiling. Extend the marks to the wall if possible. This will enable you to see the joist marks as you cover the ceiling with the wood panels.

2. Measure the ceiling with a measuring tape. Mark the measurements from the ceiling onto the wood panels.

3. Cut the wood panels with a miter saw or a circular saw. Cut out light fixture or speaker holes with a jig saw.

4. Load a caulk gun with a tube of construction adhesive. Cut the end of the construction adhesive tube with a utility knife. Apply the adhesive on the back of the wood panels in a "s" like motion.

5. Lift the panel into place on the ceiling. Nail the wood panel into place with a pneumatic nail gun. Make sure you are placing the nails into place in the ceiling joists.

6. Continue measuring, cutting, gluing, and nailing the ceiling panels in place on the ceiling until the entire ceiling is covered.

Tags: ceiling with, into place, place ceiling, wood panels, ceiling with wood, construction adhesive, into place ceiling