Choose A Tiffany Lamp

Tiffany lamps cast a warm glow of colors in a room.

Around 1895, the artist Louis Comfort Tiffany created the Tiffany lamp, a lamp which is both functional and highly decorative. A Tiffany lamp incorporates stained glass designs into its shade. When turned on, the lamp emits a soft colored glow that adds a splash of warm color to any room. Selecting a Tiffany lamp ensures that you'll be adding an element of elegance and classical decor to your home.

Instructions

1. Go to the area of your home where you plan to place the Tiffany lamp. Decide if the lamp will rest on the floor or on a table or desktop. Envision where you want the lamp to be and how high and wide you'd like it to be. Use a measuring tape to estimate your hypothetical dimensions, and write them down.

2. Look around the room where you plan on using the Tiffany lamp. Note the prominent colors of your decorative scheme and write them down.

3. Visit a lamp boutique, home goods store or Tiffany lamp dealership. Look primarily at lamps that share the dimensions you imagined. Examine lamps that have stained glass colors that both match and contrast the color scheme of the room where the lamp will be. A complementary lamp will give your room a more traditional look, whereas a lamp with contrasting colors will give the room a more dynamic splash.

4. Look at a wide range of decorative patterns. Tiffany lamps come in a range of designs, from flowers to fruit to butterflies. Don't over-think when it comes to choosing a design. Select a lamp that you're immediately drawn to.

5. Practice switching on and off the lamps that you're interested in. Switching the lamps on should be easy; the clicker or cord should never get stuck.

6. Turn on the lamp or lamps that you're most interested in and walk away for 10 to 15 minutes. Return and hold your hand an inch above the glass lampshade. The lamp should still be cool and not radiating a great deal of heat.

7. Ask the shop assistant to turn the lamp over to show you the engraved signature on the lamp, if you're examining authentic antique Tiffany lamps. Most authentic Tiffany lamps have an engraved signature that says, "Tiffany Studios New York" or "L.C.T. Co." If the lamp does not have such an engraving, the dealer should provide a certificate of authenticity.

Tags: Tiffany lamp, lamps that, Tiffany lamps, lamp will, engraved signature, room more

Remove Adhesive Residue From Plastic

Glue dots have you begging for an effective adhesive remover?

Removing adhesive residue from plastic can be a sticky problem. Although the sticker or label might come off a plastic container by simply soaking it in water, a thin layer of clear adhesive will almost always remain. Washing with soap and water usually is not enough to be an effective adhesive remover; however, some chemicals that are strong enough to break down the adhesive glue so it can be removed will actually remove the finish from plastic, ruining the piece and creating a bigger problem than what you started with. You should never attempt to scrub or scratch the adhesive residue off, as this, too, can damage the finish.

Instructions

1. Dab some of the product known as Goo Gone onto the clear adhesive residue (see Resources). If the residue is thin, it will wipe off almost immediately using a soft cloth. If it is heavy, allow the Goo Gone to sit for about 5 minutes and wipe again. This is a very effective product that removes nearly any type of adhesive residue.

2. Spray a bit of WD-40 household lubricant onto the residue. Allow the WD-40 to sit on the adhesive for about 10 minutes, then rub it with a soft cloth. Repeat as needed.

3. Try rubbing nearly any type of household oil onto the area of concern will work an an adhesive remover. This could be baby oil, cooking oil or vegetable oil spray. Even peanut butter, because it contains oil, will take off some adhesives.

4. Use lighter fluid, rubbing alcohol and nail polish remover to take off many adhesives, but you should test a small area of the plastic first to ensure that these stronger products will not take off the plastic's finish. Dip a Q-tip into the chemical and rub onto a small glued area. If it does not dull the finish of the plastic, rub the rest of the area with a cotton ball soaked in the chemical until the adhesive comes off.

Tags: adhesive remover, about minutes, adhesive residue, adhesive residue, clear adhesive, effective adhesive

Wire A Hunter Ceiling Fan Light

Hunter ceiling fans come in a variety of styles and designs, many of which have lights or can have light kits installed. These light kits come in a few styles, with domes, globes, and shades accenting their bulbs, but they are all wired in virtually the same way. If you have a Hunter ceiling fan and want to install a light on it, knowing the proper technique for wiring it is crucial for great-looking results.

Instructions

1. Shut off all electricity to the Hunter ceiling fan.

2. Remove the cover plate at the center of the Hunter ceiling fan with a screwdriver. If there is a knob securing the cover plate in place, unscrew it by hand.

3. Pull out the wires from the center of the ceiling fan. There will be three wires -- one black, one white, and one green.

4. Attach the wires from the light kit to the wires in the Hunter ceiling fan. Most Hunter ceiling fans and light kits come with wires that have connectors for easy wiring. Connect each wire in the light kit to the corresponding colored wire in the ceiling fan.

5. Hold the wired light kit in place and attach it to the ceiling fan by tightening the screws around the edges of the light kit.

6. Install any globes or shades that came with the light kit by screwing them into place or tightening the screws at the base of the light bulb sockets. If the light kit is a dome type kit, slide the hole in the dome over the bolt at the center of the fan and screw the knob into place over the dome.

7. Install light bulbs in the light kit sockets by screwing them into place.

Tags: Hunter ceiling, into place, light kits, ceiling fans, cover plate, globes shades

Decorate A Ceiling For A Jungle Party

Bring the allure of the jungle into your home beginning with the ceiling.

Whether you're throwing an adventurous bash for your child or a casual gathering for your grown-up friends, the adventure and intrigue of the jungle can create the perfect setting for your next gathering. Recreate the natural beauty of this one-of-a-kind ecosystem in your own home to transport your guests to another world. Don't deprive your guests of the full jungle experience; since much of the excitement in the jungle takes place above one's head, be sure to incorporate ceiling decorations into your décor.

Instructions

1. Measure the dimensions of your ceiling. Purchase fabric in those dimensions featuring large leaves and other jungle plants to appear as though you are under the plants' canopy. Stretch fabric across your ceiling and attach at the corners with staples.

2. Make fake vines out of old paper shopping bags. Cut the bottom off a brown grocery bag, then cut the entire bag into three long strips. Twist the strips tightly to resemble a vine and join them at the ends with masking tape. Staple one end to the ceiling and let them hang realistically.

3. Cut colorful butterflies out of construction paper. Draw elaborate patterns on their wings and use a hole punch to attach fishing wire to each butterfly. Hang from the ceiling, making sure that they are high enough not to interfere with guests' movement.

4. Hide ceiling fixtures by draping mosquito netting around them. Fasten with staples.

Tags: into your, with staples, your ceiling, your guests, your home

Tongue & Groove Ceiling Finish Ideas

Tongue and groove ceilings create an appealing, rustic feel.

After installing a tongue and groove ceiling, the next question is finish it. While the wood on a tongue and groove ceiling will naturally darken with age, providing a rich patina, it should be protected from the elements with some type of coating. The biggest choice to make is between a natural finish and paint, as this choice will make the most difference to the look of the room.

Linseed Oil

If you are seeking a natural look for your tongue and groove ceiling, the easiest solution is a simple treatment with linseed oil. This can be accomplished with a rag or large brush by wiping or brushing the linseed oil directly onto the wood. More thorough coverage can be accomplished, and many drips avoided, by applying the finish to the wood before affixing the wood to the ceiling. For many applications, polyurethane has replaced linseed oil because it is more durable and resistant. However, for a ceiling application, linseed oil is just as good, because ceilings don't receive any wear. Linseed oil is also more sustainable and less environmentally harmful than many forms of polyurethane.

Stain

Stain should be used with caution on ceilings. A ceiling that is made too dark can leave a room with an oppressive feel. Used in moderation and in lighter tones such as golden oak, a stain can give a rich feel to a den or lounge. If you choose to stain your tongue and groove ceiling, combine it with white or light-colored walls in order to avoid creating a room that feels like a sauna with too much wood in it.

Paint

Some homeowners choose to paint their tongue and groove ceiling. If you choose this route, you need to seal any knots in the wood with shellac prior to priming or painting. If you don't do this, the sap that is in the knots will bleed through any paint you put on and ruin your paint job. Because shellac isn't porous, it will seal the sap inside of the knots and keep it there. After sealing the knots, prime all visible surfaces in order to create an adhesive surface for the finish coat. Several finish coats should be applied in order to create a rich coverage. If you have any doubts about painting your wooden ceiling, put it off for a while. Once the paint has gone on, it isn't coming off without an awful lot of work.

Tags: groove ceiling, tongue groove, tongue groove ceiling, order create, your tongue

Products For Cleaning Ceiling Tiles

Ceiling tiles need cleaning periodically.

The wide selection of ceiling tile materials on the market today seems to point out a need for myriad types of chemicals and gadgets to clean these surfaces. The fact is, very little is needed. Mild dish soap should be the strongest chemical that comes near any ceiling surface. In addition, a vacuum cleaner with soft brush attachment, cotton cleaning cloths and a duster are the only products needed to keep your overhead tile looking fresh and beautiful.

Metal

Metal tiles provide versatility in design and color, while providing protection from mold and moisture damage. Dusting the surface with a cotton duster will remove day to day dust buildup. Use a mixture of 1/4-tsp. mild dish soap to a gallon of water and sponge the surface for a deep clean. Though rust is a rare occurrence, lightly scrubbing small spots with a steel wool pad will remove the blemishes.

PVC

PVC, or plastic, tiles are one of the easiest types to clean and replace. Molded in a wide variety of patterns and colors, they are valued for their fire resistance and durability around water leaks. Daily wiping with a duster or dust mop will keep plastic tiles in good condition. Occasional washing with mild dish soap and water will help retain the brilliant shine.

Styrofoam

Styrofoam ceiling tiles are a common sight in medical facilities and restaurants. The styrofoam is lightly coated with vinyl to create a lightweight, yet durable surface. The ease of installation and low price make styrofoam an attractive alternative for homeowners. Lightly dusting with a cloth dampened with water and dish soap is all that is required for maintaining this surface. Do not place any pressure on the tile, as it is easily damaged.

Acoustic

Admired for sound-proofing qualities, acoustic tile became notorious when the manufacturing process had to undergo changes to rid the composition of cancer-causing asbestos. Asbestos acoustic ceiling tiles need to removed by trained professionals. "Asbestos ceiling tiles were used for much of the 20th century. That is, until the 1970s when the government began issuing warnings and guidelines concerning the use of asbestos products," states Abestos.com. Liquid cleaners and water should never be used to clean acoustic tile. Vacuuming with a soft brush attachment will keep most dirt and dust at bay. Rub a dry sponge, such as Magic Eraser, over any stains.

Wood

Wood veneer tile provides dramatic old-world style to any room. It brings decor back to an age that pre-dates chemically designed products. Dust the wood veneer daily with a cotton duster or vacuum with a brush nozzle. Clean the surface weekly by wiping with a damp rag dipped in dish soap and water. Rinse with clear water and wipe dry. Do not leave the surface wet.

Tags: dish soap, acoustic tile, brush attachment, ceiling tiles, cotton duster

Install Wood Fiber Ceiling Tile

Wood fiber ceiling tiles are popular for basements and recreation rooms because of their low cost and excellent sound absorption. Luckily for anyone in the midst of remodeling, wood fiber ceiling tiles are also relatively easy to install. The tiles themselves feature no-tool, drop-in installation, and the surrounding support structure requires only basic tools and moderate construction knowledge.

Instructions

1. Measure the space before purchasing materials. You should measure from the exact level that you want the ceiling to hang; do not measure the floor, since some older home walls may rise at an incline or decline, leading to skewed measurements near the ceiling.

2. Purchase your supplies with the measurements in hand. Remember that tiles can be cut easily, so don't buy individual tiles for small edges if you can just as easily cut a larger tile into multiple sections. Frames can be purchased as snap-together pieces, but you'll still need some basic nails or screws and metallic wire to hang the frame.

3. Drill or nail into the existing ceiling then hang your framing wire from these nails or screws. Most snap-together ceiling tile framess come in grids with 2 foot square openings. Your nails or screws should match up the the intersecting points on the grid; in other words, your nails or screws will be placed every 2 feet, with wire hanging down to attach to the intersecting points on the frame.

4. Assemble your ceiling tile frame in large sections. Get several people to help you lift these sections. Then attach the sections to the hanging wires. The frame itself will have several pre-drilled holes in it for the wire; pull the wire through the hole and tie it off using any basic knot. Don't over-think excessive knotting; the wire will typically be sturdy enough that it retains a bended, wrapped-around shape even if the knot fails.

5. Adjust the frame once all sections have been raised and attached to the wires. Use a laser level to make sure the frame is even and level; you can easily adjust the frame by pulling up the hanging wires and tying off the excess.

6. Measure the gaps near the corners and edge, since these will not be perfect 2-foot by 2-foot squares. Make sure you measure all four edges of the frame's corner-piece space; if your wall is crooked, these pieces will not be perfect squares or rectangles. Cut several wood fiber tiles to fit the corners and edges using a razor blade.

7. Shift tiles so they are on an angle then slide them up into the frame. Once the tiles are above the frame, straighten them out and gently let the tiles drop into the frame. Once all tiles have been dropped into place, the ceiling is complete.

Tags: nails screws, ceiling tile, ceiling tiles, fiber ceiling, fiber ceiling tiles

Hang Dropped Ceiling Tiles

Installing a drop ceiling is an effective and inexpensive way to work around complex ceiling repairs. Unfinished ceilings, high ceilings and areas where pipes or electrical fixtures cannot be hidden also make use of drop ceilings. Installing a drop ceiling takes about a day, depending on the size of the room. The complicated part is hanging the initial grid to support the tiles. Keeping an eye for detail and making sure the grid remains level are two important aspects to ensuring a successful installation.

Instructions

The Grid

1. Decide on the panel style and size. Most panels for drop ceilings are either 2-by-2 foot squares or 2-by-4 foot rectangles.

2. Measure the dimensions of the room's width and length. Draw the measurements on graph paper. Make each square equal to 1 square foot. Count the number of panels needed by using the square foot dimensions of the room.

3. Verify the local height and clearance requirements for your ceiling. This helps determine the ceiling height if you have pipes and electrical fixtures that will be hidden by the drop ceiling.

4. Measure from the floor to the ceiling joists. Subtract the required inches for the pipe and electrical clearance. New ceilings often require a 6-inch depth from the joists. Use the final measurement as a guideline against the wall for the suspended ceiling.

5. Mark a line along the walls by using a level as a straightedge. The level ensures a balanced, even ceiling. Locate the wall studs for each wall with a stud finder. Mark their location along the lines.

6. Turn off power to the room as a precaution. Drill screws through the holes in the angles to attach them to the wall. Place the screws at the stud markings. Use the marked line as the placement guide for the angles. Trim the angles with tin snips to fit into the corners.

7. Read the installation manual included in the ceiling kit for placing the eye-hole screws. Install the eye-hole screws into the joists above you at the recommended distance. The eye-hole screws hold the wires to suspend the ceiling grid.

8. Cut suspension wires to size for each eye-hole screw with a pair of wire snips. Use the height of the angles along the walls as a guide for where the wires should end. Measure from the floor to the angle height. The distance from the end of the measuring tape to the eye-hole screw is the length of each wire. Hang each section of wire as you cut it.

9. Attach the main tees to the ends of the wires by tying the ends to the tees with a pair of pliers. The main tees are the metal beams that span the room. All tees should point in the same direction. Use the level to check the evenness of the tees as you go.

10. Insert the ends of the cross tees into the main tees at the wires. They should snap into place. This connects the grid together. Start at the center of the grid and work toward the walls. Check the levelness of the grid, as you go, with the level set on the cross tees. Cut the tees to fit at the walls with the tin snips.

The Tiles

11. Climb a ladder under the open area where the first tile will be installed. Have a helper hand you a ceiling tile. Grasp the panel at the shorter end if you are using rectangular panels.

12. Position the panel so the short end is parallel to the long sides of the grid. Raise the panel up through the grid, keeping it centered as you raise it.

13. Place the panel corners so they are perpendicular to the opposing corners of the grid. The bottom edge of the panel forms a line between the opposing corners in the grid section, forming triangles.

14. Turn the panel carefully so the face is toward you. Use both hands to support the panel as it faces flat with the grid.

15. Line the panel up with the grid below it. Move the panel until it is even with the grid on all sides. Drop the panel into place. Continue along the grid row to the ends. Cut the end pieces and any other pieces to fit the grid with a utility knife.

Tags: drop ceiling, eye-hole screws, main tees, with grid, along walls, corners grid, cross tees

Bathroom Ideas For A Male

Everyone uses bathrooms, but men have a reputation for not using them well. But with some effort and some creativity, there are lots of ways to spruce up a guy's bathroom and make it a great space..

Cleanliness

No one really wants to use a dirty bathroom, so the first step is always to clean. Get a good all-purpose bathroom cleaner, sponges, gloves and a toilet brush. A good cleanser for any grout or build-up in your shower or bathtub is also a must.

Fixtures

Shaving usually takes a good amount of equipment so make sure to have space for it. A good vanity should have enough space to store most of your things and will make the whole room look less cluttered. Hang the vanity at about eye level and make sure to leave a good amount of space between it and the sink, so the room doesn't feel cramped. For fixtures, nothing beats white porcelain for the basin and brushed stainless steel for the faucet: simple and elegant.

Design

Tile is always a good idea for the floor, as it is water-resistant. Alternating black and white tiles can give a sleek, classic look, or lightly colored beige tiles will set a neutral tone. If you have the option of designing the walls, wood paneling can lend the room a rugged air. If you're going with a plaster or stucco wall, consider soothing colors like blue, light green or yellow.

Accessories

Even though your floor is hopefully waterproof, a shower mat can keep water from getting everywhere and protect your feet from cold tiles. A little bench storage box can be good to put clothes in to prevent a mess, or you can use it to store towels. Towel racks are essential, and you can even get a heated one for the ultimate comfort. When picking out other things to have in the bathroom use your own sense of style, but a restrained sleek look (think brushed steel and dark colors) can make you look put together. A good shower nozzle is key: not too high pressure, good water output, and a detachable head can make cleaning easy. Gadgets are great (nose hair trimmers, hair dryer, etc.) but make sure you have enough room to store them. And always stock enough toilet paper and soap.

Tags: make sure, good amount, have enough, make sure have, sure have

Designing A Modern Bathroom

Stick with neutral tones for timeless appeal.

"Modern" is one of those styles that changes by the year as fashions come and go. Figuring out design a bathroom that won't feel dated in just a few years is one of the more complicated parts of designing a house. An important aspect of the process is knowing exactly what you want, need and can do without. The bathroom, like the kitchen, is one of the trendier rooms of a home. But since trends change by the season, designing a bathroom that will remain fashionable over time demands that you go beyond what is fashionable right now.

Instructions

1. Analyze your design aesthetic. Figure out what you like by going through magazines, books or websites and acquiring pictures of things that attract your attention. They do not have to relate to the bathroom, although that would be helpful. After you have assembled photos -- and bits of fabric, tile samples, paint chips and anything else that catches your eye -- set them out together on a table or the floor. Look for things that keep coming up: a certain color, a theme, a kind of architecture. Take one representative image of each of these things and put them together. This should give you a realistic idea of your design aesthetic.

2. Use your design aesthetic to choose a color palette and design style that best represent your interpretation of "modern." For example, if you are attracted to blues and ocean scenes with Mediterranean architecture, a color palette of blue, sand and ocher may be perfect for you. You can bring it in with the fixtures and types of counter tops you choose.

3. Choose your toilet and sink carefully. Avoid using colorful toilets or sinks. While black may seem stylish right now, it can become dated very quickly, like the pinks and greens of the 1970s. White, off white and cream remain your best bets in terms of colors, since they go with anything, even if you update the bathroom again later on. You can also use colored glass sinks, cut stone, metal and even wood. The sink and counter are generally where most people spend their money since this is the area most people see. A plain and functional toilet, although not cutting-edge, is still acceptably modern, although if you can, spend more for a higher-end one.

4. Explore bathtubs, showers and whirlpools carefully. This is important because the bathing amenities can make or break your style. For example, a sleek bathroom full of metal fixtures will not look modern with a shallow plastic tub. A pair of rain heads over sleek tile, on the other hand, would go quite well. A Zen-inspired style might require a bamboo wall mural, with a wooden Japanese bath tub as the perfect final touch.

5. Aim for simplicity with the basics: choose neutral walls and ceilings. Essentially give yourself a bare canvas in which to create your modern bathroom.

6. Use the fixtures to go all out with your aesthetic. For example, to incorporate your love of nature, bring in plants or a floor mural of river stones. You could also use natural touches such as a cut stone basin or photos of forests.

7. Avoid going overboard. Don't clutter by adding tons of do-dads or making it hard to move around. The bathroom should be simple, not overly ornate. Make sure everything is functional and has a purpose. For example, a wicker laundry hamper can double as a decorative table.

Tags: design aesthetic, your design, your design aesthetic, bathroom that, color palette

Measure Bath Vanity Lighting

Bathroom lighting should light the working area.

Proper lighting around a bathroom vanity can really help make the sink a usable space. Lighting can also help highlight this section of the bathroom design and enhance the look of the mirror and vanity. When measuring for lighting above a bathroom vanity, pay attention to the plumbing and lighting codes, as well as bathroom planning guidelines.

Instructions

1. Measure the height for sconces on either side of the mirror, so that the bottom of the lamp shade will be level with the primary user's eyes.

2. Measure the width of sconces on either side of the mirror so that there is a minimum of 4 inches of space on either side of the mirror for the electrical panel and sconce escutcheon to be placed. If this area comes within 3 feet of a bathtub or shower, a sconce cannot be placed here, and the light should go above the mirror or medicine cabinet.

3. Measure for lighting above a mirror so that there is a minimum of 4 inches of space between the top of the mirror and the ceiling for mounting a sconce or light bar.

4. Ensure that the lights can be turned on from a switch located between 15 inches and 48 inches off the finished floor, in easy reach of either the vanity or the entrance to the bathroom.

Tags: either side, either side mirror, mirror that, side mirror, above mirror, bathroom vanity

Hang Ceiling Joists

Hung securely, ceiling joists serve as the substructure of your ceiling.

Repairing a cracked ceiling joist or installing a new one can create unanticipated problems if not done correctly. Done incorrectly, you might find finishing your ceiling difficult or even impossible. Additionally, you could create a joist system unable to support ceiling material such as sheetrock. Done correctly, joists will support the ceiling.

Instructions

1. Position a ladder near the first horizontal ceiling stud where you want to hang the new joist or beside the cracked or damaged joist that needs replacement.

2. Pry the nails free from the cracked or damaged joist using a hammer.

3. Slide the damaged joist out of its position from the opposite wall beams. The joist spans from one wall to the other.

4. Measure the angle of the ceiling using a miter gauge.

5. Mark the cut angle on the new joist using the miter gauge and a carpenter's pencil.

6. Lay the joist across three sawhorses evenly placed so they support the joist.

7. Cut the angles using a circular saw.

8. Slide the new joist into the position of the old joist. If you do not have to replace old joists, slide the new joist in at the edge of one wall and place additional joists every 16 inches.

9. Nail the ends of the joist into place using a hammer and eight-penny nails. Make sure to nail the joist's exposed edge such that you pierce the joist and connect with the adjoining roof beam.

10. Mark "vertical support" marks on the ceiling joist at 36-inch intervals using a measuring tape and carpenter's pencil.

11. Measure the distance between each vertical support mark and the upper roof beam using the tape measure. Because your roof rises, these distances will increase as you move inward toward the center of the ceiling. Make sure you note the required angle for each using the miter gauge.

12. Cut the required number of vertical support beams from 2-by-4s using the circular saw. Make sure to cut them to the lengths indicated by using your "vertical-support distance" measurements.

13. Mark the angle on the "upper tips" of each vertical support beams using the miter gauge. The upper tips consist of the end that will face upward and attach to the roof beams.

14. Cut the vertical support beams to a right angle using the circular saw.

15. Attach vertical support beams every 36 inches to the joist and the upper roof beams using a metal elbow bracket.

Tags: vertical support, miter gauge, support beams, using miter, using miter gauge, vertical support beams

The Average Cost Of Removing An Acoustic Ceiling

A ceiling without acoustical popcorn is easier to paint.

Acoustic ceilings, also known as cottage cheese or popcorn ceilings, once decorated only the most modern homes. They eliminated echoes and provided soundproofing. They've since become highly undesirable relics that darken rooms and call undue attention to themselves. Fortunately, you can hire professionals to remove these artifacts and replace them with a smooth surface.

Costs

According to the Cost Owl website, as of 2011, the price to remove an acoustic ceiling averages $1 to $2 a square foot, which puts the cost of a 15-by-15 foot space at $225 to $550. The job is simple enough for most homeowners to tackle. However, it can be messy and dirty, and the amount of dust may not be worth the cost savings. A home that was built in the 1970s or earlier may have asbestos in the ceiling. A self-test kit, costing about $10 to $20, can reveal the substance. If the popcorn contains asbestos, the price of removal goes up.

Painting

Most removal professionals will not repaint the ceiling, though this is something the homeowner can do. To cover a 15-by-15 foot space usually takes 1 or 2 gallons of paint, which costs between $40 to $100, depending on the paint quality and whether you're applying one or two coats. A professional will prep the ceiling by in filling cracks and holes, and fixing other problems. The surface will then be smoothed and sanded, as needed, and washed with soap and water. Painters charge from $20 to $45 an hour, putting the cost of painting the room ceiling at $150 to $450 for labor alone.

Plasterer Labor

The major part of removing an acoustic ceiling is labor, with wages that depend on location. As of May 2010, the Bureau of Labor Statistics lists the average wages of plasterers at a mean $19.75 for the country. However, pay went as low as $11.96 per hour for the lowest 10 percent and rose as high as $31.97 per hour for the upper 10 percent. The states with the highest rates were Connecticut at a mean $34.18 per hour and New York at a mean $30.93 per hour. For below-average wages, Arizona showed pay of $14.97 per hour while plasterers in New Mexico earned a mean $16.21.

Painter Labor

For painters, the Bureau of Labor Statistics shows a mean salary of $18.08 per hour, with lows at a mean $10.80 and highs at a mean $28.12. The highest wages were in Illinois at a mean $24.59 per hour, followed by Nevada at a mean $23.90 per hour. Lower rates were available in Florida at a mean $14.62 per hour and Texas at a mean $14.83 per hour.

Tags: mean hour, 15-by-15 foot, 15-by-15 foot space, Bureau Labor, Bureau Labor Statistics, ceiling labor

Decorate A Living Room With A Feng Shui Zen Design

Feng Shui decoration can bring calm and peace into your home.

Feng shui is an ancient Chinese art that involves the natural energy of a place. According to the Shambhala Publications, "feng" means wind and "shui" means water. Soft winds and moving water are associated with good fortune, according to Chinese philosophy; therefore, good feng shui encourages good energy and fortune. Feng shui in interior design involves the use of color and the arranging of furniture and decorations in such a way that it is possible to harness positive energy. Designing your living room according to the tenets of feng shui can bring calm and positivity into your home.

Instructions

1. Remove all the furniture and decorations if your living room is already furnished. Look at the room's architecture, and take note where the windows and doors are and what the room's shape is.

2. Paint the room a light, neutral, earth-toned color if it is a stark white or a cold darker color. Use colors such as warm beige, light sage greens or warm but light yellows. Avoid emphasizing contrast if you paint the trim a different color. Keep your colors complementary and simple.

3. Select furniture for your living room that has rounded or smooth edges. Avoid sharp, straight lines. Arrange your furniture in such as way that windows, doors or other features are not blocked.

4. Minimize the clutter of knickknacks by thinning out your collection and keeping your display of decorative features to a minimum. Hang one or two paintings that bring in the beauty of the natural world. Focus on serenity and simplicity in your decorations; avoid introducing intricacy, tension, negativity or violence into your living room. This is not the place to hang your print of Picasso's "Guernica."

5. Balance the elements represented in your room. Hang a picture of a waterfall over a fireplace, for instance. Introduce the serenity of moving water by putting a small containable waterfall decoration on your mantel or coffee table; the sound of moving water will contribute to the room's positivity.

6. Hang simple window treatments that do not block the natural light or shut out the natural world. Select lighter to medium fabrics for curtains. Avoid heavily-textured fabrics or busy print fabrics.

Tags: your living, your living room, into your, living room, moving water, bring calm

Change A Ceiling Fan Light

Most ceiling fans are equipped with light fixtures.

Many ceiling fans have attached light fixtures and they occasionally require a replacement bulb. Ceiling fans use a wide variety of bulb types, and it is important to select the correct replacement bulb. The motion of a ceiling fan causes vibration that can limit the lifetime of light bulbs, so burned out bulbs can be more common than in standard light fixtures. If your ceiling fan does not have an attached light fixture, many fans have upgrade kits that are available at a local home improvement center.

Instructions

1. Turn off the power before working on a ceiling fan.

Switch off the ceiling fan at the wall switch.

2. Remove any light fixture globes or light covers. A small set screw along the rim of the glass typically secures the globes. Loosen or remove this screw and gently remove the glass.

3. Remove the existing bulb by turning it counterclockwise. A jar-gripper may provide a better grip on hard-to-reach bulbs. Wear gloves to avoid injury from broken glass.

4. Inspect the light socket for cracks, frayed or exposed wires, burn marks or other signs of damage. Replace or repair the socket as required.

5. Use caution when switching from incandescent bulbs to CFLs.

Procure a new light bulb. This bulb should match the existing bulb in size and type. The maximum wattage usually is marked inside the fixture, and you should not exceed this wattage. Some ceiling fans use bulbs with a smaller base than standard lighting. A selection of bulbs is available at most home improvement centers.

If the light fixture has a dimming feature, use caution if replacing existing incandescent bulbs with compact fluorescent lights (CFLs). Most CFLs will burn out if they are dimmed, although bulbs are available that can tolerate dimmers. Some ceiling fans are available with special light fixtures that support dimmable CFLs. Always consult your owner's manual for advice on bulb replacement.

6. Insert the new bulb into the fixture and tighten securely by turning it clockwise.

7. Replace any globes or covers and reinstall any set screws loosened or removed.

Tags: ceiling fans, light fixtures, light fixture, attached light, bulbs available

Make Patterns On A Ceiling

Adding pattern on the ceiling gives a room an unexpected focal point. If you are already covering a ceiling with drywall mud, it's just as easy to add texture as it is to leave the ceiling smooth. In fact, many textures require less work than creating a perfectly smooth plane. Some common ceiling patterns, such as knockdown ceiling texture, use drywall tools. Other textures use special brushes or tools to create specific patterns. Practice applying ceiling texture on a piece of scrap lumber so you can get the hang of the application process before you begin working on the ceiling.

Instructions

1. Remove everything from the room. Tape plastic sheeting over windows and doors into the room as well as electrical outlets and light fixtures. Cover the floor with drop cloths or old bed sheets.

2. Paint a layer of primer on the drywall. Allow it to dry. The primer covers any drywall tape and other marks on the ceiling and gives the ceiling compound a good surface to adhere to. Priming the ceiling also allows you to use ceiling compounds that you don't need to paint.

3. Measure joint compound or pre-mixed texture compound into a bucket. Add a small, measured amount of water. Stir the water in with a mud masher, which looks like a potato masher. Keep track of the amount of compound and water you use so you can match the consistency of subsequent batches. Avoid getting air bubbles in the mixture.

4. Add small-diameter quartz sand to the compound mixture if you want the ceiling pattern to have a grainy texture. Otherwise, omit this step.

5. Place the compound in the hopper of an acoustical spray gun. Attach the gun to an air compressor. Both of the items are available for rent.

6. Spray compound lightly over one small section of the wall by holding the nozzle about 30 to 36 inches away from the ceiling. A section should be about the size you can comfortably reach without moving. When you finish one section, move to another section until you cover the ceiling with texture. Allow this "orange" coat to dry for three to eight hours.

7. Mix a second batch of compound but change the consistency slightly. Adjust the settings on the spray gun to spray larger particles. Add this mixture to the hopper of the sprayer.

8. Spray a second coat of compound on the ceiling. Hold the nozzle approximately 48 inches away from the ceiling. Work in sections as you did previously until you cover the room. Go back over the ceiling with a third coat. Concentrate on evening out the spray patterns.

9. Run a 24-inch knockdown knife lightly over the ceiling to break off the sharp tips of the compound if you are creating a knockdown ceiling texture. Alternately, dab a drywall stomp or stipple brush randomly into the damp texture on the ceiling to create stomped or stippled texture.

10. Scrape any texture off the walls before the compound dries, using a putty knife.

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Install An Electrical Box In A Suspended Ceiling

Installing lighting in your suspended ceiling allows you to enjoy more floor space that is not cluttered with lamps. Space the lighting out in equal amounts and you will also have more even lighting in the area. If you plan on installing surface-mount lights, you first need to mount an electrical box in the suspended ceiling. The electrical box holds all the necessary electrical wiring for your lights.

Instructions

1. Mark out the location of the electrical box on the ceiling tile. Trace the box on the back of the tile.

2. Cut the opening in the tile with a utility knife. Place the ceiling tile in the suspended ceiling.

3. Remove an adjacent tile. Slide the electrical box up into the ceiling and position it over the hole in the tile.

4. Extend the mounting arms on the electrical box out until they span the ceiling joists. Screw the mounting arms into the ceiling joists with wood screws.

Tags: ceiling joists, ceiling tile, into ceiling, mounting arms, suspended ceiling

Pick Ceiling Paint Color

Be conservative in your selection of ceiling color.

The ceiling is not a place to get radical with a color choice. That said, if you are going with some powerful colors on your walls, the ceiling is a place that can add a bit of fresh air. Deep colors like maroon can make a strong statement, but can also make a room oppressive. By going with a lighter color, you can ease the impact a little while maintaining the verve of a vibrant color. For rooms that get a lot of light, a bright ceiling can help reflect light back into the room.

Instructions

1. Pick your room color first. Your ceiling color will depend on your room color, and as the ceiling is not in the general field of view most of the time, it will be subordinate to the room color.

2. Select the same color as the wall color if it is not too dark and the room does not stand in need of a lot of extra light. A Navajo white, or similar off white, is fine on the ceiling and will help the room cohere, especially if the ceiling is low. If you are going much darker than an off white, consider a lighter color than the wall color.

3. Use a color in the same family for mid-tone wall colors. Often you can just select a lighter color from the swatch sheet. For example, if your walls will be wheat or a light terra cotta, select a color of the same hue that has more white in it. An exception might be if there is a high ceiling and you want to make the room more homey, or if a consistent color is important to the decor.

4. Use a lighter color of the same hue for strongly colored walls. A tangerine wall, for example, could be coupled with orange cream. The bit of orange in the pastel color for the ceiling maintains the consistency of color, while lightening the room and feel.

5. For dark rooms, use a light neutral. For example, a chestnut-colored wall would naturally fit with a white with a bit of yellow ocher or a hint of burnt sienna. For maximum lightness, go with ceiling white.

Tags: lighter color, color ceiling, color same, room color, ceiling color, ceiling place, going with

Will A Gas Stove Work Without Electricity

Gas stoves use open, controlled flames for cooking.

In the event of a power outage, you can still cook, if you have a gas stove. Modern gas stoves require an electric outlet to operate the electronic ignition for the stove, but you can work around this in an emergency. Knowing light your gas stove without electricity before a disaster will ensure you are prepared for an emergency.

How Gas Stoves Work

Electric stoves heat burner coils to cook your food, but gas stoves use a real flame. This flame is produced by natural gas fed to the burner through lines in the stove. At the burner the gas meets a spark or flame and ignites to the cooking flame. The height of the flame is controlled by the stove knobs, which control the amount of gas entering the burner.

Gas Stoves and Electricity

Old-fashioned gas stoves did not require electricity, but modern appliances do. The electric plug on a gas stove does not control the burner or gas flow. It is used to create an electric spark to light the gas going to the stove burners or the oven. The electronic ignition lets you turn on the stove burners without using a match, but if the power goes out, you can still use the stove.

Lighting a Gas Stove Without Electricity

Long fireplace matches are useful to have on hand in your kitchen for lighting your stove if the power goes out. They will also let you continue to cook if your stove's electronic ignition stops working. Turn off the burner you want to light. Hold a lit match next to the burner and turn the control knob to high until the burner ignites. Turn the knob to off to shut off the supply of gas and extinguish the flame.

Precautions

Do not stand directly over the burner when lighting it. Using long fireplace matches instead of smaller matches will keep your fingers away from the flames. Gas ovens that use an electric glow bulb cannot be lit without electricity because the bulb needs an electric current to light the oven. If at any time you smell an odor like rotten eggs, turn off the gas to your home and leave the house. Call the gas company from another house because you could have a potentially dangerous gas leak.

Tags: electronic ignition, your stove, cook your, fireplace matches, power goes

Restore Oil Rubbed Bronze

Oil-rubbed bronze finish takes on a more muted look.

The look of oil-rubbed bronze is a darkened and sometimes mottled answer to the harsh yellow of "builder's brass" fixtures. An oil-rubbed bronze finish mutes the brightness of yellow brass and gives it a richer, deeper tone, allowing the lamp or bath or kitchen fixtures to take their rightful place within a room rather than exist as an eye sore. It is fairly simple to turn bright brass into an oil-rubbed bronze finish, but if the finish is not protected properly, or if the top clear coat or wax coat is damaged, the oil-rubbed bronze finish may become uneven and require restoration. Fortunately, the same process that creates the finish is capable of restoring it.

Instructions

1. Remove any existing clear coat from the fixture by wearing rubber gloves and dabbing a piece of fine-grade steel wool in lacquer remover. Gently rub the metal portions of the fixture until the gloss is gone.

2. Wipe off any residue with a clean, soft cloth.

3. Mix one part antiquing solution with 10 parts water in a rubber tub large enough to submerge the fixture. Place the fixture into the tub and agitate to remove any air bubbles sticking to the fixture.

4. Watch the color of the fixture darken and remove the fixture when the color reaches the desired hue, then rinse the fixture immediately in warm, running water.

5. Dry the fixture completely and top with a coat of clear spray paint or buff with wax, as wet areas and areas not protected by either a clear spray coat or wax continue to darken.

Tags: bronze finish, oil-rubbed bronze, clear coat, clear spray, oil-rubbed bronze finish

Hang A Floating Ceiling

Floating ceilings, also known as suspended or drop ceilings, offer home and business owners an alternative to completely redoing an existing ceiling. Building codes vary by state and city, but a general rule of thumb is that the ceiling must be at least 7.5 feet high. Allow four inches of space between the old ceiling and the new ceiling so you can tilt the ceiling panels into place.

Instructions

1. Select a floating ceiling. Although they utilize the same type of panels used in hospital and elementary school ceilings, they are available in a wide range of styles and patterns. Shop around to find the ceiling that works best with your overall room design.

2. Use a level and a pencil to measure four inches down from the existing ceiling joists. Measure at numerous points along the walls, as many ceiling joists are uneven. When you are confident that you have straight lines at the lowest point, use a chalk line to mark all four walls.

3. Nail the perimeter molding to the wall. Align the top of the molding with the chalk line and ensure that you nail only into the wall studs. Trim excess molding as needed with tin snips.

4. Measure the width of the room perpendicular to the ceiling joists and divide by the length of each panel. This determines the number of full panels the room will accommodate. Subtract the combined length of the panels from the room width and divide that number in half. The result is the perimeter gap to leave on each side when installing the main runners.

5. Repeat step 4, measuring parallel to the ceiling joists and using the width of each panel. This determines the perimeter gap to leave when installing the cross tees.

6. Measure perpendicular to the joists from the wall to your predetermined perimeter gap. Snap a chalk line. Continue measuring across the room, snapping a chalk line at precise four foot intervals.

7. Screw eyebolts into every third ceiling joist along each chalk line. Attach short lengths of 16-gauge wire to each eyebolt and twist to tighten.

8. Stretch a string between perimeter moldings every eight feet. This string acts as a level to keep the main runners straight.

9. Position the lead end of the main runner against the perimeter molding and lower it to the string.

10. Insert the first piece of wire into the closest hole in the runner. Bend the wire up and twist to secure it.

11. Repeat step 10 along the full length of the first runner. Use the string to guide the runner placement and the wires to secure it.

12. Repeat steps 9 through 11 for all main runners.

13. Install the cross tees every two feet along the main runners, beginning at the predetermined perimeter gap. Slip the tabs of the cross tees into the slots on the runners as shown in the manufacturer's instructions.

14. Slide ceiling panels into the center of the grid to help square and align the entire framework. The first few panels are generally the trickiest.

15. Use tin snips to cut lengths of main runners and cross tees the length of the perimeter gaps. Attach the factory ends to the existing runners and cross tees, and rest the cut ends on the perimeter molding.

16. Install the remaining ceiling panels.

17.Use a sharp utility knife to cut panels to fit the perimeter gaps. Lay the panel finished side up and slice cleanly through all layers. Make several passes if necessary.

Tags: chalk line, cross tees, main runners, ceiling joists, ceiling panels, perimeter molding

Separately Power A Light & Fan For A Hunter Fan

A ceiling fan with lights

Most ceiling fans will have the option to add a light kit. This kit may be sold separately or included in with the fan itself. Generally the kit must be separately connected to the fan unit. In many applications it is desirable to have the light operated by the wall switch and the fan to remain on, controlled by the manual switch on the fan itself. The unit is designed to accommodate this option by slightly altering the wiring.

Instructions

1. Install additional wire from your wall switch to the location of the ceiling fan. This wire should be at least 12 gauge and should be red in color. This will be the power supply for your light unit. Route the wire from the wall switch and up through the attic to the ceiling fan. This must be one continuous wire with no splices or junctions allowed.

2. Mount the light kit to the ceiling fan unit. Depending on the model you purchased, this will normally be done with quick-connect wire clips. There will be a clip for the white and black wires and in some units the green ground wire will need to be tied together as well. This will connect the light kit to the power supply of the fan.

3. Connect the power supply to the fan motor. After being certain all power is off to the area, connect the black wire from the fan to the black wire from the wall switch. Secure the wires together with a wire nut, being certain not to allow any of the bare wire to show. Repeat this with the white wire. You will also need to connect the green ground wires. Use the wire strippers to strip away the outer insulation on the red wire. Connect this wire to the blue/red wire on the ceiling fan. This will allow the power to bypass the fan and control only the light.

4. Connect the wires to the wall switch. Remove the black wire from the top terminal of the switch. Move this wire to the lower terminal so the two black wires are now secure under a single screw. Make certain the screw is firmly screwed down. Strip back the insulation on the red wire and secure it beneath the top terminal on the wall switch. This will allow the switch to control only the light kit while there is a constant power supply to the fan as it bypasses the wall switch.

5. Complete the fan installation and mounting procedures. Once all work is complete, turn the power back on to the area and test the fan, light and wall switch.

Tags: wall switch, wire from, power supply, black wire, black wire from, ceiling This, This will

Gypsum Drywall Specs

Typical professional installation of drywall takes one to two days for most houses.

Gypsum board is the most common type of drywall used to build walls and ceilings. Gypsum board is essentially crushed and compressed gypsum adhered to paper. The product is easy to cut or size, lightweight and durable. The specifications for gypsum board include the materials used in the board as well as varying sizes and intended use.

Makeup of the Board

Gypsum board is basically the combination of heated, crushed stone and paper backing. Gypsum is a type of quartz rock found frequently in sedimentary deposits. The stone is heated to 350 degrees Fahrenheit in an effort to remove the majority of water and liquids, according to the Gypsum Association. After heating, the crushed rock is mixed with water and other chemicals, pressed between papers, and dried. The chemicals allow the gypsum to recrystallize forming a sturdy and stable base compound.

Sizes

Almost all gypsum board comes in 4-by-8 foot sheets. However, several manufacturers produce 10-, 12-, and 14-foot lengths of gypsum board. The boards are usually two sheets pieced together at the ends with a thin strip of paper. The width of the boards can vary from one-quarter of an inch to a full inch. The most common sized used on interior walls is 3/8-inch thick. The individual sheets can be joined using plaster and paper tape that adheres to the surface of the board creating a seamless transition between sheets. Cutting a gypsum board requires running a razor knife along one side of the board, bending the board at the cut line, and cutting the backing along the folded line.

Uses

The most common use for gypsum is for interior walls and ceilings. Typically, 3/8 inch drywall is used as the initial covering for walls; 1/2 inch drywall is more common for ceilings, however. 1 inch drywall is used in partitions, hall ceilings, or other areas where high-fire resistance and a sturdier drywall is needed. 1/4 inch drywall, the smallest size available, is rarely used alone; the small size typically is used as a thin cover over existing walls. Drywall has excellent sound-dampening effects. Several contractors use the 1/4 inch drywall as a base material when constructing rooms that need sound proofing.

Tags: inch drywall, drywall used, most common, gypsum board, Gypsum board, inch drywall used

Cathedral Ceiling Lighting Options

A lighted ceiling fan is one option for illuminating a room with a cathedral ceiling.

A cathedral ceiling takes away the space between the roof and the ceiling. The ceiling follows the architectural flow of the roof, peaking where the roof peaks. Cathedral ceilings add extra height to a room, creating a sense of spaciousness that standard eight-foot ceilings cannot portray. They also add extra decorative space. Within this extra space, you must select the correct type of lighting that will mount onto the ceiling safely and will illuminate the room to a satisfying intensity.

Track Lighting

According to HGTV Pro's website, track lighting is the recommended and preferred lighting option for cathedral ceilings. Track lighting highlights the architectural detail of the cathedral ceiling while also providing enough light to illuminate an entire room. Service Magic states that the most common type of tracking lighting is currently three wire systems that mount onto the ceiling and provide three separate hanging lights, making them convenient to install on slanted cathedral ceilings. Low-voltage options are available for softer, more energy-efficient lighting.

Lighted Fan

Ceilings fans suspended from long cords seemingly bring the height of cathedral ceiling down a notch or two, according to YourNewHouse.com. Fans create aesthetic value and a homey atmosphere while also allowing you to cool your room's temperature by circulating the air in warm weather. More importantly, you can turn the fan blades in the opposite direction during cold weather to return heat to the ground. Because heat rises, cathedral ceilings can cause a room to become chilly. Lighted ceiling fans help regulate the air temperature while also lighting the room.

Natural Lighting

With higher ceilings come higher walls. Fill this extra bare wall space visually and objectively by adding windows. Windows of different shapes and sizes create style and break up wall space that would otherwise look awkward and empty, according to YourNewHouse.com. Stacked windows or regular windows topped with transoms are visually appealing options that coincide well with cathedral ceilings. Also, add natural light by incorporating skylights into the ceiling. According to House-Energy.com, mounting a skylight onto a cathedral ceiling is ideal because the skylight is mounted directly onto the roof, and the ceiling just needs a simple hole installed.

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Hang Tulle From The Ceiling

Tulle is easy to use and effective for decorating a drab ceiling.

Tulle makes a great decoration for a party, special event or even daily use. Its light and airy look can add a dash of fantasy to any room. If draped across a ceiling, it gives the room a cozy and dressed-up effect. Tulle is also incredibly lightweight and easy to keep in place.

Instructions

1. Prepare your tulle pieces. Decide on the length you need based on how much area you want to cover. Say your ceiling is 5 feet long and you want to drape the tulle from end to end. Cut a piece of tulle at least 8 feet long so you can have some slack to drape.

2. Lay the pieces on the floor. Once you've cut all the pieces you are going to use, lay them on the floor beneath the area where they will hang. Pull them to their full width and then bunch them in a bit to make sure they are wide enough to cover the area you wish to cover. This allows you to double check the layout.

3. Start with the center. Position your ladder beneath the area where you want the center of your tulle drapery to be. Climb the ladder grasping the center of one piece of tulle, and stick it to the ceiling with double-sided tape. Fold the edges under and stick those to the ceiling, too, draping the fabric as loosely or tightly as you like.

4. Move outward to the edges. Move the ladder along the length of the tulle, first in one direction, then the other, as you continue to stick the middle and two edges of the tulle to the ceiling with double-sided tape.

Tags: area where, beneath area, beneath area where, ceiling with, ceiling with double-sided, double-sided tape

Design A Ceiling

Contemporary ceiling.

Ceiling design is an element that goes in and out of fashion. Historical ornate examples of beautifully embellished ceilings such as the Sistine Chapel remind us to look up. In many homes ceilings are the largest unfinished space in the room. Often we opt for white painted ceilings because we are not sure design or decorate a ceiling. When we bring thoughtful design to the ceiling we can add value to the home and a sense of completeness to the decor.

Instructions

1. Measure the room and transfer dimensions to graph paper at scale. There are two basic types of ceiling design: the existing ceiling that constrains the design and the home design still in the design phase (pre-construction). First, determine the budget and the objectives of a project. Ripping out a ceiling on an existing home can be very expensive and may not return a good value.

2. Draw the orientation of the room on the graph paper. A fabulous view may be the objective of expanding a ceiling height. Improved light conditions and a sense of space are also familiar objectives. Determine how much height is enough. Think about homes you've entered with gigantic vaulted ceilings that are empty and abandoned like spiderweb orphans. The ceiling you want should work for you but not be too much for the rest of the home.

3. Sketch the type of ceiling you imagine. A traditional home may have coffered ceilings with extensive moldings. A contemporary home may have a curved ceiling and smart modern lines and finishes. A Spanish style home may have exposed beams and adobe. Many mid-price transitional homes feature double height ceilings with recessed vaults called trays. The style you choose should work with the architecture and finishes in the rest of the house.

4. Ask an appropriate city agency about any restrictions that may exist for building the type of ceiling you want. Many communities have strict building height and roof pitch requirements. If your design is complex and you want to span large rooms you will need the assistance of an architect and structural engineer.

5. Consider transforming an existing ceiling with paint, the addition of new lights, the addition of trim moldings or panelling, beams or other architectural features. Often existing ceilings can be removed to expose existing framing which can be reworked to expand the visual height without a complete roof removal.

Tags: home have, ceiling want, ceilings with, existing ceiling, graph paper

Make Your Own Crown Molding For Cheap

Crown molding adds a touch of class to your home, but purchasing the molding can be a financially damaging experience. Making your own crown molding can save you the financial heartache and still give you the look you desire. You can use recycled wood in your project as a further cost-cutting measure. Use caution and good sense when you create your crown molding, though, or you may end up with a finished product which doesn't live up to your expectations.

Instructions

1. Visit a local lumberyard or construction site to see if they have any old wood they won't use. Many times, places like these will reject a strip of wood for use due to mild water damage or other small flaws. You can take this wood off their hands for a fraction of the original price or even for free.

2. Cut the pieces of wood to the length you need for your crown molding with an extra 4 inches of length on each side. Draw pencil lines 4 inches from both ends of the wood to properly illustrate the correct length of the molding.

3. Place the wood on the edge of a worktable. Fasten the wood in place using table clamps. Position the table clamps so they put pressure on the edges of the wood, past the pencil marks.

4. Run a router with a rounding bit along the edge of the wood strip starting at one pencil line and stretching to the other. Make several passes over the edge of the wood to create a smooth groove on the edge.

5. Cut the ends of the wood along the pencil lines at a 45-degree angle, either angling inward to the center of the wood or outward from the center of the wood. Determine whether you need an outward or inward angle based on the wall corners where you will install the crown molding (an inward angle for inward-facing corners and an outward angle for outward-facing corners).

6. Sand the face of the wood and the ends to remove burn marks and splinters left by the saw and router. Start with 60-grit sandpaper and then sand again with a finer grit sandpaper to give it a smooth finish.

Tags: crown molding, your crown molding, center wood, edge wood, ends wood, inward angle, pencil lines

Interior Design For A False Ceiling

False ceilings commonly conceal HVAC units or wires.

In interior design, false ceilings are generally used to conceal building elements like HVAC units or electrical wires, and they can create opportunities for interesting interior design choices. A false ceiling, sometimes called a suspended or dropped ceiling, can be camouflaged to match the rest of the room, or it can be highlighted with recessed lighting or drapery.

General Lighting Design

Because a false ceiling lowers part or all of a room's ceiling, it can affect how the light fills the room. For home spaces that are meant to be soothing, dimmer light is more common in interior designs because it gives a feeling of relaxation and comfort. Residential rooms with false ceilings might not have lighting installed in the ceiling, or the lights might be dimmer. Commercial spaces generally require brighter or higher contrast lighting to stimulate the senses, so commercial spaces with suspended ceilings can benefit from brighter lights.

Recessed Lighting

A false ceiling can provide both opportunities and challenges for an interior designer who wants to install recessed lighting. The space between the suspended ceiling and the structure above can have room for installing lights, but the space can also be filled with horizontal HVAC ducts or electrical wires. The designer must be aware that recessed lighting may not be possible or account for ducts and other mechanical conduits when placing lights.

Light Fixtures

If recessed lighting won't work in a false ceiling, light fixtures can be installed to light the space. When choosing light fixtures for a room with a drop ceiling, designers must take into account the space from the ceiling to the floor. Hanging fixtures might not be practical if the ceiling is too low, but they can also balance out a high ceiling. For lower ceilings, lights that have a high clearance can be best.

Concealing a False Ceiling

Another way to handle a suspended ceiling in interior design is to conceal it. No one will ever know that the ceiling is lower if it is made to look like the natural ceiling. Designers can install crown molding around the upper corners of the room, or paint the ceiling in a neutral color or a color that matches the walls.

Dividing the Space

A false ceiling can also help a designer divide a room into smaller spaces. Sometimes only part of the ceiling will be dropped to allow for heating and cooling ducts, and this can be the ideal opportunity to create a smaller space within a larger room. To visually divide the space, you can install drapes along the edge of the partial dropped ceiling. The edge can also be decorated with decor items like plates, artwork or decorative wood planks.

Tags: recessed lighting, false ceiling, ceiling lower, dropped ceiling, electrical wires, false ceiling, false ceilings

Alternatives To Pvc Tin Panels

Elaborate ceiling designs involving tin tiles and other materials were one of the hallmarks fo the Victorian age.

Tin ceiling or wall panels can evoke the grandeur of another age. In older homes, such as those from the Victorian era, tin tiles are almost de rigeur. Today's designers and builders have other options besides tin to create the same effect often at less cost and with easier installation. PVC tiles that mimic the look of tin are one option, but there are others such as aluminum or copper.

Aluminum

Aluminum has the advantage over PVC of being thinner and therefore lighter in weight. It can be stamped and formed into the desired pattern and left alone, or painted to fit the decor. While the PVC tiles must be dressed in some way, the natural luster of the aluminum has a nice finish all of its own that will not tarnish with age. Being a relatively abundant material, aluminum is also inexpensive when compared to materials which give a similar effect such as plaster.

Copper

Copper ceilings are also fairly light weight and have the added advantage of acquiring a natural patina over time. Copper has historically been used as a decorative element in homes and temples, churches and government buildings, and many of the pieces are still in excellent shape. Like aluminum tiles, copper can be stamped and molded to create the desired effect. It requires no paint, but a coast of lacquer can be applied if the consumer does not want the material to oxidize and patina over time.

Real Tin

There are affordable sources for tin tiles if the customer wants the look of the real thing. While there are many sources available on the Internet, and in brick and mortar showrooms, for purchasing these tiles newly minted, there are equal numbers of places to find recycled tin tiles. One major outlet for finding old tin tiles for reasonable prices are architectural salvage yards. These are places that reclaim old architectural elements from homes being demolished or abandoned.

Tin has the advantage of being light weight, and using recycled material has the earth-friendly benefit of not producing any extra manufacturing byproducts.

Tags: light weight, over time, patina over, patina over time

Decorate A Country Bathroom

You can decorate any bathroom in the country style.

What do you think of when you hear "country bathroom?" Some people may think wrought iron or old-fashioned sinks, but others may think of their grandparents' bathrooms when they were little. Regardless of what you think of when you hear "country bathroom," decorating it to your taste is what it all comes down to. If you're starting from scratch, this guide focuses on decorating your bathroom with primitives and helps you create a country bathroom that's down to earth and comforting.

Instructions

1. Decorating your new country bathroom depends on the size of your bathroom and your budget. If you want the country-style bathroom, you're going to have to search for a Victorian Bathtub. These can be found at antique shops, in the local classified or at online sales sites. These bathtubs are the kind you're looking for that are on four legs that have the claw feet. They are the best kinds of tubs for any country bathroom.

2. Decide on what type of sink you want. Again, think Victorian Basin. These sinks come in many shapes and styles, and one of the most common is called a pedestal sink. They come in both freestanding styles or they are also made as corner sinks that work well in a smaller bathroom. These sinks add a nice touch to any country bathroom. To go along with the sink, you might want to think of a type of mirror or vanity to go along with it.

3. Add in a retro toilet for that country feel. Any toilet will do, but how you decorate it is the key to making it look country. Decorating the back of your toilet with old fashioned signs that say things like, "Soap 5 cents," can really add a country feel to your bathroom as well.

4. Choose a theme for your bathroom. A very popular theme is the "outhouse theme." A lot of people really enjoy finding decorations that add to this particular theme because it's very old fashioned. Finding things like borders and small figurines can add a nice touch. Shower curtains and area rugs should be kept to a solid color if you're going to use a border and decorations or else the bathroom will look too busy.

5. Add in tile flooring. Tile can go along with any theme to any bathroom style. You should also probably stick to a tile that's also neutral in color. Choose a tile that is a mixture of white and beige or light browns that can make your bathroom look brighter and more relaxing.

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False Ceiling Advantages

False ceilings are also called drop ceilings and suspended ceilings. These ceilings feature a number of differences from more traditional ceilings: they hang lower, and there is open space between the ceiling and the actual roof structure of the building. These ceilings provide a number of advantages to those who use them, including convenience and fire resistance.

Convenience

Because false ceilings are hung more than installed, they are easy to install and easy to remove. A suspended ceiling is made of a metal grid that holds lightweight panels. The grid is suspended from an anchor in the original roof structure; it is generally held in place by screws attached to steady base. Once the grid is installed, the panels simply slide into their places, supported by the metal beams. If an owner decides to redo the ceiling, removal is as simple as installation: slide the panels out of their places and unscrew the grid. The ease of moving panels also makes these ceilings convenient to cover areas that feature a lot of plumbing or electrical systems. With a false system you can cover unsightly jumbles of wires or pipes, but you can still access them easily by simply sliding panels out of the way.

Fire Resistance

False ceilings are revered in office buildings and homes for being extremely fire resistant. A test done by the Warrington Fire company in 2005 revealed that a drop ceiling was able to hold its position during a fire for 109 minutes of duress; this allows more than 1 ½ hours for rescue, recovery or extinguishing efforts before the ceiling collapses. The design of suspended ceilings distributes the heat and smoke over a larger surface, allowing the structure to hold its integrity for long periods of time. The even spread of heat and smoke can also lead to faster recovery efforts. With heat and smoke spreading out quickly, it is more likely that the fire alarms and sprinkler systems will be activated quickly.

Soundproofing

False ceilings can also help to isolate a room in terms of sound travel. Because the does not directly lie against a structure (i.e. the roof or the floor above), it does not vibrate with the noise coming from that area. Sound waves have a chance to dissipate in the space between the false ceiling and the overhead structure, so sounds from above are muffled in the room. Similarly, the lightweight panels will reflect sound back into the room, improving sound travel in the room that contains the ceiling.

Tags: heat smoke, ceilings also, False ceilings, False ceilings also, lightweight panels, more than, roof structure

Pick A Ceiling Fan Light Kit

A ceiling fan can have light fixtures attached to it.

A ceiling fan can be a very useful addition to the more highly trafficked areas of your home. A ceiling fan can generate quite a bit of cool air and, in some climates, it can make your home cooling system almost completely unnecessary. Part of purchasing a ceiling fan is picking a ceiling fan light kit to go with it. This kit will dictate the type of fixture you have with your ceiling fan, which should give you the light you need and the design you want.

Instructions

1. Figure out how you want to pick the ceiling fan light kit. You can pick a light kit that is already mounted to the fan -- this is the most convenient option but has the least choices -- or you can pick a light kit that comes with the ceiling fan when you purchase it and which you need to attach yourself. You can also pick a light kit sold completely separate from your ceiling fan. This option gives you the most choices but can be the most difficult to install.

2. Look into the various types of kit. An uplight kit, for example, is mounted on top of the ceiling fan, meaning the light shines up at the ceiling. A bowl light kit tends to be more energy efficient and is attached below the ceiling fan. The bowl acts as a shade. A branched light kit includes lights that fall from stems or arms. These can face up or down.

3. Consider the light created by each type. An uplight kit will create a soft light with more ambiance. Bowl light kits create light based on the type of shade attached. For example, a more intricate glass shade can create dazzling light patterns, while a standard clear shade will simply be one central light. The light created by branched light kits depends on the number of stems, usually three or four, and the direction they point.

4. Check to see that the light kits you're picking from are compatible with the ceiling fan. This is not necessary if you're picking a light kits that's pre-mounted. In many cases, the light kit must be the same brand or come from the same retailer as the ceiling fan. Check with the retailer or manufacturer.

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Refinish Oil Rubbed Bronze

Buffing an oil-rubbed bronze finish with beeswax can restore its shimmer.

An oil-rubbed bronze finish has a chemically darkened surface that is meant to simulate aged bronze. It is usually dark brown in color and can have a coppery tone to it. This finish is designed to age naturally over time. The time frame in which the oil-rubbed bronze finish ages depends on its location and how it is used. To refinish and restore the luster and beauty of oil-rubbed bronze, it needs to be cleaned with beeswax every couple of months.

Instructions

1. Use lukewarm water and a soft cloth to thoroughly clean the surface of the oil-rubbed bronze item.

2. Spread a thin coating of beeswax, with your hands, over the entire surface of the item you are refinishing. The beeswax coating will help to restore the luster of the finish.

3. Buff the beeswax coating out of the finish by applying pressure with a soft cloth in small circular motions, then wipe the surface dry with the cloth. The small circular motions help the beeswax to smooth out any abrasions and fill any tiny cracks. Buffing is meant to wear down the abrasions that may have appeared over time. Repeat this process every two or three months for the finish to retain its luster.

Tags: oil-rubbed bronze, bronze finish, oil-rubbed bronze finish, beeswax coating, circular motions, cloth small

Ideas On Covering Wood Paneling

Covering the wood paneling may be a messy job, but will brighten your home.

Your ugly wood paneling has had better days. Perhaps, the wood paneling used to work for the room, or maybe you got stuck with it when you moved into your home. Whether you own your home and can do a major redesign, or you rent and have to deal with the eyesore, you have options.

Paint

Paint over the paneling and embrace the grooves between the "wood." If the paneling is extra shiny, sand off the finish. Prime the paneling and paint with a color of your choice. Thicker paints, such as latex, work best to camouflage the grooves and fake wood grain.

Wallpaper

Spackle the nail holes and paint the paneling with primer to get it ready for wallpaper. Choose thick wallpaper that will not settle into the grooves. Traditional wallpaper shrinks into the lines on the paneling, so be careful which wallpaper you pick. Textured thick wallpaper works great to hide the imperfections in the wall.

Mud

Sand and prime the paneling, tape the grooves of the paneling with mesh drywall tape and roll on drywall mud. After the mud dries, prime the wall and paint like the wall was drywall. This look achieves the regular drywall look best without having to actually nail up drywall, but if the paneling flexes, the mud may crack. Priming beforehand should cut down on this, though.

Curtain

Hang up floor-to-ceiling curtains or drapes to cover the walls as an option if you're renting and cannot change the paneling. This adds extra color and texture to the room, while hiding the fake wood look. Use removable adhesive hooks for curtain rod holders if you are not allowed to use nails or screws. You can change out the curtains as often as you like, giving you versatility. Pull the little tabs when you move out and there will be no evidence you ever had a wall of curtains.

Decorative Paper

Wrap the wall in decorative paper, such as wrapping paper, with removable adhesive strips and clear tape in the seams. Hide the seams with ribbon, adding lines of ribbon in between the seams to make a pinstripe look. This option does not hold up for years, but is great for making do in a cheap apartment.

Tags: wood paneling, your home, fake wood, paneling with, removable adhesive, thick wallpaper