Tuesday, May 31, 2011

Rustic Bathroom Ideas

Whether you actually have a cabin in the woods or just enjoy that design style, a rustic bathroom adds charming appeal to your home. With the right choice of fixtures, wall treatments and accessories, your bathroom can have an old-fashioned and woodsy look, but with all the modern conveniences.


Walls and Floors


Wood and other natural elements are associated with a rustic style. If your bathroom's walls are already wood, you're all set. If you don't like their color, you can always restain the wood. To dress up plain walls, make wainscoting with wood beadboard paneling and stain it in a tone you like. For a look that's different from the norm, make the wainscoting taller than usual, about 4 or 5 feet high. Above the beadboard, paint the walls an earthy color, such as mossy green or golden brown. Beadboard has a beautiful, timeless look that goes well with a rustic style. If you'd like a wood look without actually having wood in your bathroom, consider wood-look wallpaper or ceramic tile.


For floors, a natural stone or a ceramic stone-look tile are an attractive and cool counterpoint to the warmth of the wood. Tile is practical in a moisture-laden area like a bathroom and is easy to maintain.


Fixtures


Bring back the rustic look of the past by choosing a pedestal sink or two pedestal sinks if you prefer. Old-fashioned ceramic or metal faucets with the familiar H and C designations are a perfect accompaniment to a classic sink. A plain, footed tub--as opposed to a fancy, fussy clawfoot tub--will complete the look. If you want the jets or other bells and whistles that come with a modern tub or shower, go ahead and have it. Not every element of the bathroom has to be rustic to achieve the look.


Accessories


Wrought iron, or black metal, accessories are another way to bring natural elements into a rustic bathroom. A lovely wrought iron mirror and a black metal toilet paper holder will add a bit of elegance to the room, which could become too kitschy if care is not taken. A black metal or wrought iron hanging shelf or cabinet can provide extra storage.








For a woodsy shower curtain, choose a plaid fabric and make your own. To get the right size, measure an old shower curtain or use it as a template for cutting out your fabric. Leave an extra inch all around for a seam. If you have a sewing machine, hem all four sides of the fabric. If you don't sew, you can use fusible tape, found at stores that carry sewing supplies, or fabric glue to hem your shower curtain. Hang it with curtain clips, which will save you from having to create holes for hooks.

Tags: black metal, shower curtain, your bathroom, look that, make wainscoting

Measure For Dropin Stoves

Drop-in stoves are common in kitchens throughout the United States.


Drop-in stoves are supported by both the counter top at either side and a set of adjustable feet below. To fit correctly, drop-in stoves must squeeze the bulk of their frames between the existing cabinets and appliances while projecting a slim top ridge over the surrounding framework. The result is a tight and finished look without any rough cabinet edges or sides of the oven in sight. To measure for a drop-in stove, you will have to know the exact size of your stove and the space into which it is going.


Instructions


1. Measure the width of your drop-in stove using your tape measure. Measure the width of the stove itself and not the overhanging lip that extends from the sides of the range at the top.


2. Measure the opening between your cabinets where you plan to install the drop-in stove using your tape measure. If the space is at least as wide as your stove and does not exceed it by more than 1 1/2 inches, the stove should fit. If the gap is too small, you must either purchase a drop-in stove with a smaller width or take steps to increase the size of the opening. If the opening is too large by less than 1 1/2 inches, you should still be able to place the stove by maneuvering its overhanging lip into a central position, which will cover the extra space.








3. Measure the distance between the cabinet doors that sit to the right and left of the opening where the drop-in stove will sit. The minimum distance from the opening for each door to work properly is 1 inch or so.


4. Measure the height of your countertop using your tape measure. Measure the height of your drop-in stove. The height of the stove must be less than the height of the countertop for it to fit. However, if it is too short, it will look out of place and may require a bit of framing. Consider a stove that is closer to the dimensions you require.


5. Measure the depth of the space where you plan on installing your drop-in stove. The depth should be measured from the front edge of the cabinet door to the wall behind. Check with your drop-in stove manufacturer recommendations for depth requirements.


6. Measure the gap between the countertop and the cabinets above it. The minimum recommended height is 18 inches. Perform the same measurement in the space above where the drop-in stove is to fit. The minimum recommended space between the range top and the cabinets or vent directly above is 30 inches.


7. Measure the countertop thickness with your tape measure. Some drop-in stoves will require that your countertops stay within a certain maximum size while others will not. Check with your manufacturer guidelines for specific information.

Tags: drop-in stove, your tape measure, tape measure, your drop-in, your drop-in stove, your tape, using your

Monday, May 30, 2011

Install Recessed Lights Before Or After Painting

Recessed lighting adds a modern look.








Recessed lighting is used to add a type of spot lighting to a specific area in a room. With different styles available today, you can accomplish almost any lighting effect. Most recessed lighting is energy efficient and very simple to install, even in a finished house. The lighting can be installed before or after painting the ceiling. Most newer homes come with recessed lighting already installed.


Instructions


1. At the circuit breaker, turn off the power to the room in which you will be working.


2. Mark the area where you want the recessed lights to go. For better lighting, plan on spacing them at least 6 feet from other lights. If you are adding the lighting in a kitchen, plan on adding lighting over the stove and sink.


3. Disconnect the light fixture that is currently in the room. This is where you will be getting your power.








4. Test the wires with a voltage tester to determine if the breaker will be able to power the new lights. If not, have an electrician upgrade the circuit breaker.


5. Locate each of the joists in the room with a stud finder. Mark where each of the joists are, so you can avoid any unnecessary cutting later. You could also complete this step with a hammer and listen for an echo.


6. Drill a hole in the ceiling in the center of where you want to install a light. Bend a wire coat hanger and slide it through the hole. Mark where the coat hanger stops. Measure from the end of the coat hanger to the mark. If it measured 8 inches, then you can continue to the next step, if not, you need to find another place for the lights.


7. Trace the manufacturer's template where you will be placing the light.


8. Use a drywall saw to cut the opening.


9. Drill a hole in the joist to allow the wires for the lights to pass through. Do not drill a hole bigger than 1/4 of the width of the joist. Cut the holes only if necessary. If there is dead space above the joist, then you do not need to drill at all. You can simply lay the wires over the joist.


10. Run the wires to the closest fixture. Leave about a foot of wire hanging out of the opening.


11. Connect the color coated wires to the appropriate colored wire on the lighting canister. Use a wire nut to secure the wire.


12. Slide the canister into the ceiling; the clips attached to the canister should snap into place and hold it tightly. If you need to paint the room, now would be a good time.


13. Install the trim around the fixture, then install the light bulb.


14. Turn the power back on to test the fixture.

Tags: coat hanger, adding lighting, circuit breaker, each joists, install light, Mark where, where want

Drop Ceilings

About Drop Ceilings


Drop ceilings are also known as dropped ceilings, false ceilings or suspended ceilings. They were originally created to hide the floor and fixtures above a room and to provide acoustic control. Drop ceilings are installed at a height lower than the actual ceiling in a room. They are popular for their ease of installation, modification and versatility.


Function








Drop ceilings are used as secondary ceilings to conceal ductwork, wiring and piping of buildings. These types of ceilings are typically seen in large buildings such as department stores, hospitals, schools and office buildings. Drop ceilings also function as a sound barrier when properly insulated. They deaden sounds so that adjacent rooms are kept quieter.


Types


The older type of drop ceilings are known as the "concealed grid" system. These ceilings interlocked the panels of the grid, making it more difficult to remove single panels to gain access above the ceiling. Modern drop ceilings are known as the "drop panel" system and are used almost exclusively where drop ceilings are needed. The drop panel system allows individual panels to be removed when repairs are needed.


Features


Drop ceilings consist of a grid of metal channels which are suspended on wires from the structure over head. These channels are snapped together in a regular panel and filled with acoustic ceiling tiles. The tiles in drop ceilings can be made of an array of materials from wood to metal or plastic. Fluorescent lights, sprinklers and air conditioning vents are also installed into the grids as needed. Insulation known as "Sound Batts" are installed in drop ceilings to control and block sound.


Benefits


The main benefit of drop ceilings is the ease of access to fixtures above the ceiling. This makes repairs, maintenance and alterations easier. They are extremely popular in commercial and industrial buildings where there is a need to cover fixtures in the ceiling. Another benefit is the ability to hide structural damage or other building flaws.


Warning


Drop ceilings can be misused and are often a means of hiding faulty wiring, pest infestation and building damage. Beware of landlords who try to hide problems with drop ceilings. They easily discolor and do not age well. Drop ceilings are easily damaged and aren't usually aesthetically pleasing. This makes them less desirable for residential applications. Loss of height is another disadvantage of drop ceilings. Four to eight inches is usually needed between the bottom of the actual ceiling and the top of the drop ceiling. Before installing drop ceilings, make sure you have enough space for them.

Tags: Drop ceilings, drop ceilings, above ceiling, actual ceiling, ceilings also, ceilings known, ceilings They

Friday, May 27, 2011

Paint Clouds On A Bedroom Ceiling

Use photos to decide the cloud shapes you plan to paint.








Faux painting a ceiling is a little challenging, mostly because the ceiling is over your head -- and whether you use rollers, a brush or sponges, your arms still get tired. The reward for your hard work can be a bedroom ceiling that looks like someone took the roof off the house to reveal the sky on a bright and sunny day. Such a ceiling is likely to lift the spirits on glum days. To create a good sky takes some work but when you finish, your child will love it.


Instructions








1. Collect a group of photos of the type of clouds you want to paint. This is very helpful since most people never closely look at clouds. Clouds have a direction, which means they have a leading edge and a trailing edge. Clouds look darker underneath and lighter on top. Some streak. Some are fluffy. Tape your cloud photos to a large piece of cardboard and tape that to your wall so you have easy reference once you start.


2. Remove everything from the room. Place plastic sheeting on the floor and tape over anything you can't remove. Use tape and paper along the corner from the ceiling to the top of the walls to protect the walls from paint drops and help create a straight edge. Bring in a tall ladder. If you removed the window coverings, look out the window to see what direction the clouds are moving in relation to the room. Note this direction and keep it in mind for when you begin to paint clouds.


3. Set up a folding table (with plastic sheeting over it since you will be mixing paints). Select a dark shade in a color of blue you like. Pour the blue into an empty quart can until the can is about half full. Pour the same amount into a second can. Use a disposable plastic cup to scoop up a cup of white paint; add that to the second can. Mix it well with a stir stick.


4. Paint the ceiling so that it is darker toward the edges and lighter toward the middle of the ceiling. Paint with the darkest blue starting in a corner. Use a 3-inch brush. Brush away about 18 inches from the corner and 6- to 8-inches from the wall. While the dark blue is still wet, pick up the second can and paint the lighter color in another 18 inches or so. When you have painted what you can easily reach from the ladder in that position, take your brush and blend the two colors so that it is hard to see where one starts and the other stops. Repeat this around the entire room.


5. Mix two more quart cans with the dark blue base adding more white to each mixture. Repeat your painting technique of painting from dark to light inside the area you already painted. When you reach the center of the ceiling, work with two colors and blend them well. This will provide a backdrop for the clouds.


6. Mix white paint with glaze at a ratio of three parts glaze to one part paint. Mix gray paint with glaze using the same ratio. Pour gray/glaze paint into one half of a roller tray and white/glaze paint into the other. Recall the direction of clouds you noted earlier. Look at your reference clouds to see how the front edge looks.


7. Moisten the sea sponge with water and squeeze it dry. Dip it into the gray paint and squeeze it until it has paint but isn't drippy. Press the sponge against the ceiling and sponge out the shape of your cloud. You want the cloud to be somewhat random with darker and lighter areas, so move your sponge around and let some of the sky shine through. Pick up some white paint on the same sponge and highlight the cloud. It doesn't matter where you start on the ceiling. Move around and paint big and small clouds. If you don't like how one looks, cover it with your sky color mixtures and try again.


8. Go up and down the ladder to check your progress. Add highlights with unglazed white paint. Add shadows with unglazed gray paint. There will be a point where you understand how the clouds in your room should look. They should be puffy here, and streaky there and brighter here and darker there. After you are reasonably satisfied, it's time to finish.


9. Pick up the can of pink spray paint. Spray the pink on some plastic sheeting to get a feel for how big the spray pattern is. Then, pick a spot and while standing back from the ceiling (at least 2 to 3 feet), spray some pink. It will look as if bits of sunlight are splattered about. Add a few other bits of pink around the ceiling. Use white spray paint to soften the edges of some of the clouds. The more color layers you apply, the more brilliant your sky and clouds will look.

Tags: white paint, gray paint, plastic sheeting, ceiling that, dark blue

Find Hotel Discount Codes

Find Hotel Discount Codes


With all the great deals, promotions and coupon codes on the Internet, you don't have to pay full price for hotel accommodations for your next trip.








Instructions


1. Visit the websites of the hotels you would like to stay at and sign up for their email alerts if your trip is fairly far off. Most major hotels and hotel chains send emails advertising promotional codes for deals on stays that might be weeks to months in the future.


2. Find online "coupons" for all hotels in the area on popular travel sites such as Hotels.com. These sites not only will compare rates for all the hotels near your destination, but there also are site pages specifically dedicated to special deals/coupons.


3. For those not picky about their destination, sites such as Travelzoo.com are helpful. These types of sites compile the best travel deals on the Internet, from hotels to flights to travel packages. You also can sign up for Travelzoo emails so you won't miss any hotel coupons that come through the site.








4. Check online coupon sites such as CouponCraze.com and RetailMeNot.com. Enter the name of the hotel(s) you would like to stay at in the search field. The search should return several coupon codes you can enter when reserving your room online. Most of these types of sites also will offer ratings and other information on each coupon code (often, these types of codes expire, so it might be too late to use them).


5. Do an online search for hotels in your destination city to check for these types of sites. If your vacation destination is a large city, there might be sites aimed specifically at hotel coupon codes/discounts in that city. EarlyVegas.com is an example of this.

Tags: coupon codes, sites such, types sites, Discount Codes, Find Hotel

Thursday, May 26, 2011

Attach A Shade To A Floor Lamp







Lamp shades come in three types: the spider with harp, the uno and the clip.


Lamp manufacturers use three different standard styles of attachments for lamp shades. It is important to recognize which style lamp you own before trying to attach the shade. The "spider with harp" style shade has a circular metal attachment at the top of the shade. The "uno" style has a metal cone extending from the top of the shade down to be flush with the bottom of the shade. The "clip" style shade has a circular clip that attaches directly onto a light bulb.


Instructions


Spider with Harp


1. Unscrew the fitting from the top of the lamp shade with your fingers. Unscrew from right to left, or counterclockwise.


2. Lift your old shade straight up, off the fitting.


3. Line up the fitting on the lamp with the center of your replacement shade, and slide the shade straight down onto the fitting.


4. Screw the fitting back in place on the top of your lamp with your fingers.


Uno


5. Unplug your lamp from the electric socket.


6. Remove the bulb from your lamp by unscrewing it to the left with your fingers.


7. Lift your old lamp shade straight up and off the light-bulb socket.








8. Line up the base of your replacement shade with the top of the light-bulb socket, and place it directly onto the socket.


9. Screw your light bulb back into the light bulb socket on your lamp, and plug the lamp back into the electric socket.


Clip-on


10. Unplug your lamp from the electric socket.


11. Unclip the old shade by holding the top of the shade in one hand and the base of the lamp in the other, and gently lifting the shade straight off the lamp.


12. Line up the clip on your replacement shade with the center of the light bulb in your lamp. Gently push your replacement shade onto the bulb until the clip snaps into place.


13. Plug your lamp back into the electric socket.

Tags: your lamp, electric socket, light bulb, replacement shade, shade straight, your replacement, your replacement shade

Make Light Fixtures

Create truly unique home decor by making your own lamp or fixture.


Lamps are an important feature of the typical American home. Attractive table lamps both give light and accessorize a room's decor. While inexpensive lamps are widely available, nothing can replace the special look of a lamp you design and make yourself.


Instructions


1. Wire the lamp stand. Drill a 3/8-inch hole through the store-bought lamp stand from the bottom to top, unless the stand comes with a pre-drilled hole for the wiring. Insert a rod through the hole, leaving 2 inches at the top. From the bottom, wire the stand up through top.








2. Connect the socket.Thread the wire through the neck, and attach the wiring to the socket at the screws.


3. Put the neck, socket, harp and finial on the stand. Attach the neck on the stand. Put on the socket and place the harp with the finial into the socket cover attachment


4. Remove the shade from an old cylindrical lamp shade. Take off all the material. Be sure not to damage any of the metal struts in the structure. Wrap cotton tape, in a color that matches the new lamp shade material, around the old lamp shade structure. Wrap enough around to attach a new shade.


5. Sew a new lamp shade and place on old shade structure. Measure around the old lamp shade structure at the widest place. Add 2 inches and cut the material. If you prefer, decorate the material with a design. Sew the material with a 1-inch hem and slide over the lamp shade.


6. Put in the light bulb and place the shade on the lamp. Turn the lamp on to check that it works.

Tags: lamp shade, shade structure, around lamp, around lamp shade, lamp shade structure

Design Bathroom Fixtures

A well-planned bathroom adds market value to a house.


Modern bathrooms call for clean lines and uncluttered space. Even if a bathroom fits an older home's design and architecture, these rules apply. Having adequate storage in cabinets or closets ensures that bathroom floor space works better. Small bathrooms with very little floor space look more elegant and roomy if supplies and towels are stored outside the room. Plan a beautiful overall design and create each bathroom to feature its basic fixtures in their best light.


Instructions


1. Review bath-fixture catalogs to select a sink, commode, tub and shower that are appealing. Buy the best fixtures your budget allows. Keep in mind that well-designed bathrooms add resale value to almost any home. Find well-made fixtures that work appropriately with the home's architecture. Think, also, of how the fixtures will appeal to future buyers of the house.


2. Plan a bathroom around the sink or vanity space. Measure the wall space and sketch the sink area as the main focal point. Use a large pedestal sink in a tiny hallway bathroom, for example. Install an oval mirror above the sink. Paint the wall a contrasting dark color to call more attention to the sink space. Purchase large mirrors to emphasize a vanity cabinet space or add elegant light fixtures.








3. Create an accessible shower space. Design a table or cabinet to hold towels outside a clear corner shower, for example. Keep in mind that the shower should function well when family members are in a hurry. Create the shower door to open easily. Don't use cumbersome shower curtains and rods when a simple pre-made shower unit works better.








4. Include a jetted tub, if the budget and space will allow. A whirlpool tub for modern homes is standard, since it's viewed as a relaxation tool at the end of the day. Place the tub in a spacious corner, if possible, so that plants or candles can be placed around it. Don't place the tub in front of a window, unless the window is filled with glass bricks for privacy.


5. Create a separate small closet room for the commode, if possible. Design a larger bathroom this way, so that the main bathroom space can be designed to be as elegant as possible. Install a toilet behind half a wall if the floor space is limited. Keep in mind that no toilet should face the bathroom's entry door. Turn it sideways and place it on the far side of a bathtub or shower unit, if there is no other alternative.

Tags: floor space, Keep mind, Keep mind that, mind that, shower unit

Wednesday, May 25, 2011

Victorian Trim Ideas

The Victorian era embraced the use of wood moldings and columns.


The Victorian era lasted from 1835 to 1900. In America, homes built before the Civil War were simple, Arts & Crafts style Victorians. After the Civil War, because of the development of machinery that could cut wood moldings, houses began to be embellished with wood trim. The advent of this machinery made wood trim available in a variety of shapes, and it became more affordable. Today's homeowner can replicate the Victorian look by paring down the elements but still embodying the Victorian spirit.


Interior Trim








Window trim flourished during the Victorian era with fluted boards surrounding a window and the corners embellished with carved rosettes. Another favorite was to add picture framing wainscotting to the walls. Ceilings had boxed beams, or a center medallion, from which hung lighting. Door jambs were made from several layers of trim, creating a series of profiles and ridges. Crown moldings were also created from several layers of trim boards -- the more, the better. Additionally, chair railings and wide baseboards abounded.


Exterior Trim


Fanciful cut and painted wood trim adorned the exterior of Victorian homes. Wide frieze boards, connecting the roof to the walls of the home, were cut to resemble lace or a pattern, such as ocean waves, shells or a fleur-de-lis. Dormers were favorite places to add details, such as plaques or cornice brackets and were surrounded with a decorative frame. Wide, open porches were a Victorian favorite, and the space between every column was adorned with ornamental valances, often beaded and most definitely intricately carved.


Accessory Trim


Trim was hung everywhere there was empty space in the Victorian home. Fireplace surrounds became elaborate affairs, often using columns and pilasters. Corbels, pediments or spindles adorned the tops of doorways. Scroll-sawn brackets were used to hold up shelves.


Using Victorian Trim Today


The modern interpretation of a Victorian style is to use only some of the basic design elements. Accentuate the intricate moldings by painting them in rich colors while keeping the main wall areas light and unadorned. The most common colors of the Victorian era were red, green and amber, and combinations of those colors were used on walls, ceilings and fabrics. Today's Victorian style uses colorful patterns sparingly and draws the eye to the wood trim for which the Victorian is so well known.

Tags: wood trim, brackets were, embellished with, from several, from several layers, layers trim

Tuesday, May 24, 2011

Grout Travertine Tile On A Wall

Travertine is a stone tile that's full of random craters and holes on the surface, the result of the natural formation of the mineral-rich stone. The holes are part of the classic look of Travertine, though in most cases, those holes are filled with grout so they don't collect dirt and moisture. By using grout of a different shade than the tile, it highlights the shapes of the holes while still giving you a flat surface on the tile itself. Travertine should be pre-sealed before grouting so the grout doesn't stick to the face of the tile.


Instructions








1. Apply tile sealer over the surface of the newly hung tile using your paintbrush. Work from the top of the wall and make sure to apply the sealer only to the flat face of the tile. Don't get it in the lines between the tiles or in the holes that are in the tile surface. Let the sealer dry for several hours.


2. In a bucket, mix your unsanded grout with water using your putty knife to stir it. Add the water slowly, mixing the grout to the consistency of thick mud. Let it sit in the bucket for 10 minutes so the chemicals meld (this is called ``slaking'').


3. Re-stir the grout. Use your grout trowel to apply it to the wall, starting at the top. Scrape the trowel across the tile at an angle, with the long side pressed tightly against the surface so the grout is squeezed into the lines and holes in the tile face. Do the entire wall, making sure to go over every inch of it so all the lines and holes are filled.








4. Wipe down the wall with a damp sponge. Run the widest span of the sponge flat against the tile so it takes up the excess grout but doesn't dig it out of the lines or the holes.


5. Let the grout cure for a week or more. Re-apply tile sealer as before, but this time go over the whole tiled surface, grout and all.

Tags: lines holes, face tile, grout doesn, holes filled, surface grout, tile sealer

Removal Of Asbestos From An Acoustic Ceiling

Preparing a room to remove sprayed ceiling








Acoustic ceilings that could have asbestos product in them can be in the form of a spray-on 'popcorn' ceiling. Asbestos was used as a sound dampener and a binding agent in ceiling materials through the 1980's. Use of the product was banned because it can cause lung cancer. If you are not sure if your ceiling contains asbestos, you can send a sample to a lab for analysis.


Safety First


Removal of the popcorn ceiling will release the asbestos fibers. Popcorn ceilings can be painted over, but that makes it more difficult to remove them later. Hiring professionals who have the safety equipment and training is the best option. If you want to do the work yourself, use a respirator (if your doctor approves) and protective clothing, including eye protection. Wear a protective suit. Protect wiring and electrical from the water you will be using to wet the asbestos. Trim, drywall, paint, and furniture can be damaged in the removal process.


Removal








Remove all items and furniture from the room. Hang 6 mL polyethylene from the doorway to seal the room to contain the area. Tape the polyethylene to the walls and lay it on the floor. Purchase polyethylene waste disposal bags; you will need one for every 25 square feet of ceiling. Do not allow visitors to the room while you are working. Turn off the HVAC system to avoid getting asbestos fibers in the ventilation. Remove smoke detectors. Sprayed ceilings must be wet down to prevent the release of the fibers. Use a spray bottle with warm water and a teaspoon of liquid detergent. It may take up to 20 minutes for the ceiling to absorb enough water to scrape easily. If you cannot get the material to absorb moisture, stop working. You will need to contact an asbestos contractor. If you remove dry material, you will spread asbestos fibers throughout your home.


If the material absorbed the moisture, begin removing it, using a small scraper, and allow the material to drop into your hand. Place the material in a bucket that is up where you are working. Do not drop the material to the ground. Place the material from the bucket into the 6 mL polyethylene bags.


Cleanup


When you are done removing the sprayed ceiling, place all the material from the ceiling in the bags. Encapsulate the ceiling by applying a coating that will bind the asbestos fibers. This can be done with latex primer. Do not sand ceiling before painting. After painting, spray the walls with water. Then, work from the top down and the back of the room to the front. Place the polyethylene from the walls and floor in the bags. Do not shake out or sweep anything. Put clothing and any tools you want to dispose of, including the the respirator filters, in the bags. Seal the bags. Clean the rest of the tools and shower. Dispose of the materials in a licensed asbestos disposal site.

Tags: asbestos fibers, material from, polyethylene from, popcorn ceiling, sprayed ceiling, walls floor

Decorating Ideas For Old Crystal Chandeliers Using Material







Overhaul the look of your crystal chandelier with a new theme.


Old crystal chandeliers are elegant in a Victorian home, but can seem out of place in a modern or country home. Update your crystal chandelier with a little fabric and some creativity. Get some help taking the chandelier down and redecorate it at ground level instead of trying these ideas while on a ladder.


Winter Wonderland


If your home's design is crisp as a winter morning, consider changing your chandelier to match. Purchase some white, shaggy yarn from the fabric store and some white cotton or spandex fabric. Wrap the white fabric around the brass parts of the chandelier, securing it with adhesive. Wrap the chandelier parts again with the shaggy yarn. When hung, your chandelier will look like a snowflake.


Raggedy Anne


Country-themed homes are just begging for a raggedy country chandelier. Obtain some quilting fabric and cut it into strips. Tie the strips onto the brass parts of the chandelier, stacking them close together. Finish off the look by covering the the chandelier plate bottoms with fabric and replacing the crystals with raggedy ornaments.








Fantasy


Turn your dining room into a storybook by creating a fantasy-themed chandelier. Wrap each brass arm in a different brightly colored fabric. Replace the crystal cups with lamp shades, also covered with bright fabric. Finally, replace the crystals with silk butterflies or dragonflies.


Fringe


Modern homes have so much decor that is crisp and square. Add a head tilting focal point by transforming your crystal chandelier into a fringe chandelier. Remove all the crystal and the light-bulb covers. Use adhesive to glue fringe fabric along the tops of all the brass pieces. Glue fringe to the rims of the light covers and you have one very modern chandelier.

Tags: crystal chandelier, your crystal, your crystal chandelier, brass parts, brass parts chandelier

Monday, May 23, 2011

Make A Crystal Chandelier

Make a Crystal Chandelier


A crystal chandelier is an elegant update to any room's decor. One does not have to be expensive to give the impression of luxury. When making your own crystal chandelier, keep in mind the requirements for the fixture. You can hang a candle chandelier nearly anywhere. If you want an electric chandelier, though, you will need to be able to install it into an existing light fixture or hire an electrician to install it. First, choose the chandelier frame that fits your expertise and budget.


Instructions


1. Choose a chandelier frame from a home improvement store or a lighting store that has plenty of arms to hang your crystals from. The more complicated the design, the more crystals you can string from it. You can also alter an existing chandelier in your home.


2. Decide how long you want your crystal dangles to be. Cut the fishing line to this length plus 3 inches. Cut as many lengths as crystal dangles you want to hang from the chandelier.








3. Pass the end of the line through the hole of a pendant crystal and tie securely. Add a dab of glue to the knot to secure it. Thread the line through the crystal beads, allowing them to rest on top of the pendant. Fill the line to the desired length with the crystal beads. Hide the loose end of the line where it is tied around the pendant by passing it through the holes of the first few beads above the pendant.








4. Tie the end of the fishing line around an arm of the chandelier and glue to secure the knot. Pass the loose end of the line through the hole of the beads beneath it to hide it. Continue stringing and tying until the arms are equally covered with crystal dangles.

Tags: crystal dangles, line through, chandelier frame, crystal beads, crystal chandelier, fishing line, line through hole

Make Paper Swirls To Hang From The Ceiling

Draw a simple spiral to create a paper swirl.


Create quick ceiling decorations for seasonal or party decorations using paper and a sharp craft knife. This low-cost craft makes any room look festive. Use paper in colors that match the event, season or the room's existing decor. The swirls are decorative on their own, or you can dress them up by combining them with paper garlands or bunting. Even young children can make attractive paper swirls with only minimal adult supervision.








Instructions








1. Lay a sheet of heavyweight decorative paper on your work surface. Scrapbooking card stock or colored poster board works well.


2. Draw a spiral on the surface of the paper with a pencil. Begin in the center of the spiral, and work outward, keeping each line of the spiral spaced approximately 1 inch from the lines on either side of it.


3. Make the final spiral the same diameter as the desired finished size of the bottom tier of the paper swirl.


4. Cut out the spiral with scissors. Cut along the outermost line of the spiral so you have a circular piece of paper with the spiral drawn inside of it.


5. Lay the paper spiral on top of a cutting mat. Cut along the drawn spiral line with a craft knife, following all the way to the center.


6. Punch a hole in the center spiral, using a one-hole punch. Thread the end of a ribbon through the hole, and tie it in a knot to secure.


7. Hang the swirl by the ribbon. The spiral separates along the cuts, making a swirl that hangs down from the ceiling.

Tags: center spiral, craft knife, line spiral, paper swirl, paper with

Friday, May 20, 2011

Paint A Ceiling In A Unique Checkered Board Design







Checker board designs are meant to imitate the look of fine marble floors and have been in style since the 1700s. While the look is sophisticated on a floor, it can really make the ceiling in a room pop. Often unnoticed, ceilings can be painted or decorated to give your room a needed boost in décor. A checker board design not only looks elegant, but it also adds a touch of whimsy to your room since it is in an unexpected place.


Instructions


1. Remove all of the furniture from the room and lay a drop cloth over the floor.


2. Climb the ladder with the vacuum and vacuum the ceiling to remove dust and cobwebs.


3. Place the extension on the roller and apply the primer to the ceiling with the roller. Cover the entire ceiling, starting from the side of your dominant hand and continuing to the other side of the room. Allow the primer to dry completely.


4. Pour the lighter colored paint into the roller pan about 3 inches deep. Paint the ceiling from the side of your dominant hand to the other side of the room with the roller. Allow the paint to dry completely.


5. Measure the middle of the ceiling and draw a straight chalk line down the ceiling to center the rest of your measurements on. Measure out 1 foot squares from the center of the ceiling. Mark off the squares with painter's tape. Repeat this over the entire ceiling.


6. Paint every other square on the ceiling with the darker of the two paint colors to create the checker board pattern. Remove the painter's tape when the paint is dry.

Tags: ceiling with, dominant hand, entire ceiling, from side, from side your, other side

Glue Wallpaper To Acoustic Tile

Jazz up plain, white acoustic tile with wallpaper.


Acoustic tile is often found in commercial buildings such as offices or warehouses, but many homeowners have realized the benefits of acoustic tile in reducing noise in the home. While some acoustic tile is very ornate and contributes to the décor of the room, a lot of acoustic tile is plain white and adds nothing to the décor. One way to have your acoustic tile jazz up your décor while increasing its noise reducing properties at the same time is to wallpaper the acoustic tile.


Instructions








1. Remove the tiles from the ceiling grid, and lay them on a flat surface. Because acoustic tile is porous, it is much easier to get permanent adherence of the wallpaper without gravity working against you.


2. Wipe the tile with a microfiber cloth to remove all dust and dirt.








3. Paint the acoustic tile with a good interior primer suitable for wallpaper. Use a paint brush to apply the primer. Allow the primer to dry completely.


4. Measure the exact width and length of the acoustic tile with a measuring tape, and then cut the first piece of wallpaper to fit the acoustic tile.


5. Apply wallpaper paste to the back of the wallpaper with a paint brush or sponge brush.


6. Fold the wallpaper over so that the glued backing of one half of the wallpaper touches the glued backing of the other half of the wallpaper. Be careful not to crease the wallpaper where it bends. Hold the piece of wallpaper together until the paste begins to grow tacky.


7. Unfold the wallpaper, and place it on the acoustic tile. Smooth the wallpaper into place with a sponge. Allow the paste to dry completely before hanging the tile.


8. Repeat the process for every tile you wish to wallpaper.

Tags: acoustic tile, acoustic tile, tile with, acoustic tile with, glued backing, half wallpaper

Thursday, May 19, 2011

Install A Smoke Detector In A Drop Ceiling

Mount your smoke detector to a drop ceiling panel.


Install a smoke alarm on each of your home's levels, including the basement. This ensures the earliest possible detection of smoke and buys you valuable escape time, which cuts you and your loved ones' risk of death in half in the event of a fire. Many basements have drop ceilings. If you do not want to mount a smoke detector to the wall near the ceiling, you can mount it in your drop ceiling with the help of a mounting box.


Instructions


1. Determine the best location for your smoke detector. Near the center of the room is ideal. Hold the mounting box against the drop ceiling tile and trace around it with a pencil. Set the mounting box aside.


2. Cut out the circular tracing with a hole saw of the same diameter. Insert the mounting box into the hole. Tighten the mounting box's set screws to hold it tightly to the ceiling panel.


3. Line up the smoke detector's base plate's screw holes with two of the mounting box's screw holes. Secure the smoke detector in place with the provided screws.


4. Position the holes in the back of the smoke detector with the tabs on the base plate. Twist the smoke detector clockwise to lock it into place.

Tags: smoke detector, your smoke detector, base plate, ceiling panel, drop ceiling, screw holes

Scrape & Sand Interior Molding

Flat edged paint scraper


When planning a new decorating scheme, a homeowner should take into account the paint on his trim and molding. It may need to be sanded or scraped to match the new look of the room. Because chemical paint and varnish removal products should not be used indoors, the work must be done by hand. This is a time-consuming process; however, a well-prepared surface will make painting or staining it the next time easy.


Instructions


1. Cover the floor and any furniture nearby with a plastic drop cloth. Tuck the drop cloth in tightly around the furniture so that dust does not blow in underneath the covering. Remove any electronic equipment such as computers and televisions from the immediate area.


2. Scrape loosened paint with a paint scraper. Hold the scraper firmly in both hands. Place the edge of the blade against the peeling paint and slide it slowly away from your body to avoid gouging the wood. Work in an up and down motion first, starting at the top of the molding.


3. Scrape any leftover chunks that are peeling by scraping them from side to side with the paint scraper. Start at the top of the trim piece. Place the corner of the blade at the edge of the peeling paint and glide it over the area very slowly.


4. Put on a dust mask for protection. Sand the molding with a detail sander, using medium-grit sandpaper. Move the sander slowly in a back and forth motion beginning with the woodwork at the top. Dust the molding with a feather duster so you can see if all the paint is being removed before continuing to another area.


5. Sand over any areas that have paint remaining on them by going from side to side with the detail sander. Stop often to wipe away the dust with a feather duster. Check the sanding belt to make sure it is not clogged with debris or worn through. Clean or replace the sanding belt as needed.


6. Scrape along any outside edges that could not be reached with the detail sander by using a paint scraper. Work with only the edge of the blade in order to reach into tight areas. Remove any stubborn sections of paint with a small wire brush or steel wool pad using light pressure.


7. Lightly sand over any detail molding by hand using fine grit sandpaper. Work in a circular motion over the detailing. Brush away dust with a feather duster. Use a piece of steel wool dipped in warm water to remove paint from the grooves of the detail molding. Use light pressure to avoid scratching the piece.








8. Wipe down the sanded molding with a solution of mild detergent and warm water. Use a soft cloth dipped in the cleaning solution to clean the molding. Let the area dry, then check for any last remaining paint. Sand these areas individually if needed.


9. Remove the drop cloth from your furniture. Take outside and shake off the dust before folding and storing it. Dispose of the cleaning solution by dumping it down a kitchen drain. Gather your sander, scraper and wire brush and place in storage area. Discard your dust mask and steel wool pads in a trash container.

Tags: paint scraper, detail sander, drop cloth, feather duster, molding with, steel wool, with detail

Wednesday, May 18, 2011

Build Fake Wood Beams

Imitate a real wood beam with narrower boards.


Exposed wood beams add a rustic look to a room, but also are heavy and difficult to install. Fake wood beams give the appearance of real wood, yet you can make and add them yourself. Build them of planed wood, add decorative moldings and paint them for a more sophisticated appearance. Or make them of roughly sewn wood and stain them for an informal country look.


Instructions


1. Measure the length of the ceiling with a tape measure at the location at which you will install the first beam. Saw a 1-by-6-inch board one-quarter inch shorter than the length of the ceiling, so you'll have space to slip it in place. Mark the cut using a carpenter's square and use a circular saw or hand saw to cut it. This board will fasten to the ceiling and hold the fake beam in place.


2. Locate the studs in the ceiling with a stud finder. Measure their spacing at which you'll be installing the beam, and mark the same measurements down the middle of the board.


3. Drill a pilot hole for a two-inch screw at each of the marks.


4. Install the board flat against the ceiling by screwing a two-inch screw through the pilot hole into each stud.


5. Saw a 1-by-6-inch board and two 1-by-8-inch boards the same length as the first board.


6. Spread carpenter's glue on the edges of the six-inch-wide board and lay it flat on the floor or a work table. Nail the eight-inch-wide boards to the edges with 2 1/2-inch finishing nails spaced every foot--so that the three boards form a trough for the three sides of the hollow fake beam. Check the sides with a square to make sure they are at right angles. Let the glue dry.


7. Finish the fake beam in your preferred style before installing it.


8. Lift the fake beam up against the ceiling so the board you attached earlier fits between the sides. Nail the beam in place by hammering 2 1/2-inch finishing nails through the vertical boards and into the edges of the board that's attached to the ceiling. Touch up the finish over the nail heads if you want.


9. Build and install the other beams the same way.

Tags: fake beam, 1-by-6-inch board, 2-inch finishing, 2-inch finishing nails, against ceiling, beam place

Hide The Lines In Paneling So You Can Paint

Panel lines can be hidden and painted over.


Paneling is an inexpensive alternative to refacing interior walls. Though durable, over time it becomes dated and begins to fade. Rather than removing the paneling or drywalling over it, you may elect to paint over it. A problem with painting over paneling is hiding the grooved lines. But the grooves can be hidden to seamlessly paint over to create a new, fresh look.


Instructions


1. Wash down the paneling with Trisodium phosphate to remove dust and dirt. TSP can be purchased at any home improvement or hardware store. Wipe with a damp sponge and allow to dry.








2. Spackle in the grooves with spackling compound. Use a putty knife to apply the spackle and even it with the paneling. Wipe away any excess with a rag. Let dry.


3. Using fine grit sandpaper, gently sand the spackle until even and smooth. Apply primer over the paneling to ready to paint.

Tags: paint over

Tuesday, May 17, 2011

Cover Popcorn Ceilings

Popcorn ceilings add an acoustical noise barrier and dimension to a room's ceilings. Still, the textured look is slightly outdated for today's modern home. Cover and disguise popcorn ceilings for an innovative look by using either plaster or a faux finish technique. The project is time-consuming, and will take several days to complete. Ask a friend or family member to assist.


Instructions


Preparation


1. Cover all flooring surfaces with 6 mil drop cloths or disposable plastic. Remove all light fixtures or ceiling fans if they block access to the popcorn ceiling. Wrap light fixtures or fans in disposable painter's plastic for added protection if are leaving them in place. Put a piece of painter's tape over a light or ceiling fan's "on" switch so it cannot accidentally be turned on while working.


2. Measure the height of the ceiling with a measuring tape. Determine if a ladder or scaffolding works best for the project. Most people can reach 2 feet above their head when painting. Keeping your balance is critical when working overhead. Though a ladder may be more accessible, scaffolding in which both feet are firmly placed on a board is more secure. Inquire about renting scaffolding at local hardware and home improvement centers.


3. Vacuum all ceiling corners to remove cobwebs and dirt. Use a damp rag to wipe off loose grime from crown molding.


Plaster Technique


4. Open a 5-gallon bucket of lightweight joint compound. Inspect the compound. It should appear slightly moist. Add a small amount of distilled water to the plaster, and mix using a hand drill and squirrel mixer to increase moisture.


5. Place a small amount of plaster onto a drywall trowel using a putty knife. Hold one edge of the trowel firmly against the ceiling at approximately a 45-degree angle. Slide the plaster onto the ceiling's surface. Do not apply more than 1/4 inch of plaster to avoid cracking. Move the trowel in natural directions both vertically and horizontally to create a unique texture. Create the look of large shapes similar to continents on a globe--no straight edges are visible. The plaster will have peeks and valleys. Know that each person's troweling method will be one-of-a-kind. Cover the entire ceiling and allow plaster to dry for 24 hours.


6. Repeat the plastering step until you cover all areas of popcorn and can see no more. Several thin layers may be necessary.


7. Paint the ceiling with flat latex paint. Pour paint into a paint tray. Dip a rough nap roller into the tray. Roll on the paint using even horizontal strokes. Do not apply a great amount of pressure. Dab a chip brush into any plaster crevices that are hard to reach with a roller.


Hand-Painted Paper Technique


8. Unroll several feet of brown craft paper. Pour different coordinating latex paint colors into separate paint trays. Using a variety of paint tools, such as brushes, sea sponges and plastic bags, manipulate the paint to create an abstract design onto the craft paper. Similar to the plaster process, each person will create unique look when adding paint to the paper. Do not create any horizontal or straight edges when painting---instead aim for the look of large islands or continents--with irregular shapes. Dab, pounce and stipple the paint with the tools. Work in layers or use all colors at once. Remember to keep the color and pattern consistent. Create enough paper to cover 1 1/2 times the ceiling area. Allow the paper to dry.


9. Tear the paper into large sections with uneven edges. Each section should be no larger than 2 feet by 2 feet. Keep some straight edges for the area at which the ceiling and wall meet.


10. Apply the paper with wallpaper glue. Brush on a thick amount of wallpaper glue to the back of each paper section. Smooth over the popcorn ceiling with wallpaper smoother. Overlap each section by approximately 1 inch. The greater area you overlap, the more paper you will use.


11. Glue paper to all ceiling areas, much like to putting together a puzzle. Add the large pieces first and then fill in with small pieces where the popcorn ceiling peeks through. Save the straight edges for the end. Use a razor blade and straight edge to cut right corners.

Tags: straight edges, ceiling with, popcorn ceiling, craft paper, create unique, each person, latex paint

Decorate A Bathroom With A Shower Stall Like A Spa

A few key accessories can turn any bathroom into a spa.


Even if your bathroom doesn't have a luxurious bathtub, you can still turn it into a spa-like space. Creating a calming spa feel can easily be done with bathroom accessories such as fluffy towels, lotions, candles and flowers. Pamper yourself in the shower by creating a seating space, use natural bath products and a loofah sponge to relax and wash away the cares of the day.


Instructions


1. Clean and de-clutter the bathroom. Spas are typically extremely clean with minimal decoration. Clean the bathroom and remove any unnecessary items. Place trash cans under the sink and clear clutter off the counter.


2. Add a chair or bench in the shower stall. Even though there is not a tub in the bathroom, you can relax on a waterproof stool or bench.


3. Emphasize purity by using natural bath products and a loofah sponge. Place a variety of good-smelling, natural soaps in the shower stall. Place two to three loofah sponges in a bowl on a shelf in the stall.


4. Place fluffy towels on the counter, shelves and racks. New, fluffy towels are an inexpensive way to give a bathroom a spa-like feel. Fold three to four bath towels and place on a shelf or counter. You could also roll the bath towels and place them in a basket on the floor. Likewise, hand towels may be rolled and placed in a small basket on the shelf or counter or stacked into a pyramid shape. For added luxury, place a towel warmer in the corner or on the wall and drape two bath towels over it.








5. Natural elements add to a spa-like feel. Use real or artificial flowers, such as orchids or lilies, or a small bamboo plant.


6. No spa bathroom is complete without candles. Put candles in two to three glass vases and place on the counter or shelf. You could also put three candles on a candle plate and surround them with decorative rocks and flower petals. Candles that provide a soothing aroma such as lavender are recommended.








7. Put decorative accessories and lotions on the counter. The soap dispenser, toothbrush holder and lotion dispenser should be a matching set, such as bronze or chrome. Fill the dispensers with nice-smelling soaps and lotions.


8. Among the nice final touches you could add are a soft, fluffy robe hung behind the door and comfortable slippers placed by the shower stall. Also, be sure to use a luxurious rug outside the shower door to comfort your feet as you exit the shower. Place a radio or CD player on the shelf to listen to relaxing music or the sound of running water. Hang artwork depicting peaceful scenes.

Tags: bath towels, fluffy towels, shower stall, bath products, bath products loofah, bath towels place

Bathroom Light Fixture Work

How Does a Bathroom Light Fixture Work?


Bathroom Lighting


Lighting for every room should be well thought out and planned to enable the room to provide for the functionality it was intended for. Bathrooms are no different. Women put on their make-up, men shave and little ones want to see the space where the tooth was that just fell out. Everyone wants to be able to read which bottle is the shampoo and which is the conditioner when they are in the shower. Lighting that causes shadows and ambiance in the living room may be dramatic or romantic, but in the bathroom, shadows can be disastrous. It's difficult to shave off the 5 o'clock shadow when you're standing in front of the light and causing a 24-hour shadow. Well-positioned lighting in the bathroom can make for much happier and better groomed people.


Types


You want your bathroom lighting to be functional yet stylish and comfortable. Most bathrooms require more than one type of lighting to make it function properly. Recessed lighting is a great way to light up the shower area without being dangerous. An overhead light is great for lighting the entire room and just plain seeing your way around. A low wattage wall sconce is a nice touch for night lighting, so there's no need to completely wake yourself up on those quick trips to the bathroom in the middle of the night. Vanity lighting is the necessary lighting for around the mirror, for close up viewing. Larger bathrooms may even use a lamp off in a corner on a table. It all sounds pretty easy, but take one trip to a lighting store and you'll see these are not easy choices. There are just tons of lighting fixtures and no matter what your décor; you will find many that will match. This is an area where you will want to take your time and choose fixtures that will still be in style and match the décor next year and after. Fixtures can be expensive, and you don't want to be changing them every couple of years.


How Does It Work








Ceiling lights should be able to light up the entire room with a bright light. There are some beautiful chandeliers and hanging lights that look great but don't allow for bulbs that give off much light. Save that type for the dining room and choose a fixture that can handle high wattage bulbs. Vanity lights come in all kinds of shapes and sizes. Over the mirror or directly on the sides will give you the best lighting for putting on makeup and shaving. Track lighting is good for this area too, because all of the lights can be moved and angled until you get the lighting that you're looking for. They also can take high or low wattage bulbs. Fluorescent lights can be found in many designs and provide a great light for vanity lighting; however, many find the light to be too bright. The point of the vanity light is to provide the light from the front so that you are not standing in front of it causing shadows. It will only work for you if it is free of too much decoration and can provide the light straight to your face. Lighting for the shower needs to be bright enough to read the shampoo bottle and see to shave your legs. Even when you have a great general light in the bathroom, it gets hidden behind the shower curtain. There are many light fixtures for the shower including recessed and wall fixtures. Most of them will accommodate a bulb bright enough to provide functionality in the shower. For the lighting to work well, they should all be wired separately to different switches. A small wall sconce for night lighting really doesn't need a switch at all. It can remain on all the time with a low wattage bulb.

Tags: Bathroom Light, Bathroom Light Fixture, bright enough, entire room, Fixture Work

Monday, May 16, 2011

Decorate Simple Cottagestyle Bathrooms







Vintage jars add a special warmth to any cottage room.


The cottage look evokes a cozy, inviting charm in any room. While you may not think of your bathroom as a room you can decorate it to the same extent as you decorate the other rooms in your home; it is not as difficult as it sounds. By using a few vintage pieces that work with your color scheme, you can capture a cottage look that is all your own.








Instructions


1. Choose light and neutral colors and add splashes of color with a few accessories. White is a popular cottage color used with varying shades of blue, red, peach, yellow and green. Choose colors that make your bathroom feel soothing and relaxing.


2. Decorate with vintage pieces alongside your practical accessories. Use mirrors that have aged frames. Hang a group of framed linen samplers to create a cozy mood. Look for antique jars and bottles as well as vintage fabrics and linens to display in your bathroom. Items that look used are good choices for the cottage style.


3. Hang window treatments that soften the look of the bathroom. Without compromising your privacy, go for lacy or delicate window treatments. Hang linens or handkerchiefs to enhance the mood of a cottage room.


4. Use hardware that adds to the look you’re going for. Replace plain handles and fixtures with items that reflect a cottage charm. Look at everything from replacing the light switch plate to hanging tassels from handles to create a soft, charming look.


5. Add a worn dresser or bookshelf to store many bathroom necessities. Complete the look with wicker baskets to help keep gear from cluttering up the room.


6. Use a rug that captures the essence of this theme. Generally, cottage rugs look worn and seem like they have lived a good life. A rug that matches the colors in your bathroom will give your bathroom a feeling of unity.


7. Hang wall sconces to create mood lighting.

Tags: your bathroom, cottage look, cottage room, look worn, vintage pieces, window treatments

Victorian Ceiling Treatments

The medallion is a ceiling treatment used by the Victorians


Victorian ceiling treatments testify to the Victorians' lavish, color-saturated design preferences. The Victorians didn't believe in austere, unadorned homes, which is why their houses overflowed with decorative flourishes and embellishments. High ceilings 8 to 14 feet tall define interior Victorian architecture, and the Victorians considered white ceilings drab, naked and boring. Recreating the look of authentic Victorian ceiling treatments is not difficult, as many manufacturers offer products to easily produce the style.


Victorian Cornices


Three-dimensional cornices give a ceiling an intricate frame. A cornice encircles a room by joining the ceiling and the wall together to provide a finished appearance. Materials used for original Victorian cornices included wood, plaster and papier-mache. Contemporary cornices are made out of fibrous plaster that's easily installed by gluing or nailing it to the wall. Cornices contain ornamental designs such as dentils, Greek key, fluting or leaf-and-dart motifs. For historical accuracy, paint a cornice a darker shade than the walls and ceiling and choose at least three different colors to highlight the intricate details. Victorians gave the cornice additional flair by painting small lines in gold gilt. Examples of color combinations that existed in the Victorian home include light moss green, light salmon buff and medium moss green or gilt, green grey, cream, pink and green blue.








Victorian Medallions








Victorian medallions are also known as roses because of the popular flower design; the round disks are found in many styles. In a Victorian home, medallions were found at the center of the ceiling above a hanging light fixture. Medallions are commonly 2 feet in circumference. Many homeowners prefer to keep their medallions white; however, Victorians painted the medallions to show off the motif.


Painted Victorian Ceilings


Victorians embraced color. They painted their ceilings a lighter shade than the walls. Violet, lavender, blue, straw, peach and gray paint were all common on Victorian ceilings. From the 1830s up to the 1880s, Victorian ceilings also featured stenciled designs such as vines, flowers and leafs in rich, eye-catching colors.


Victorian Wallpapered Ceilings


Colorful, patterned wallpapers frequently adorned Victorian walls and ceilings. In Victorian wallpaper ceiling treatments, one pattern delineates a cornice while another pattern covers the ceiling. Layering various patterns brings the room together through harmonizing colors. The general rule of the Victorian wallpaper ceiling treatment dictates that several borders of paper should occupy one-sixth of the total area of the ceiling. Victorians used handbooks that illustrated layouts for the application of the wallpaper.


Victorian Tin Ceilings


By the end of the nineteenth century, the trend in ceiling treatments began to turn towards a lighter approach with moderate ornamentation. The tin ceiling offered a cheaper, more durable choice for ceiling decoration while adding texture. Patterns stamped or tooled on metal came in a flat white color, making the material ready for painting. Today, homeowners can purchase tin ceilings in copper and many other powder-coated finishes with a large range of color options.

Tags: ceiling treatments, ceiling treatment, designs such, moss green, shade than

Friday, May 13, 2011

Decorate A Kitchen Alcove With Lighting

Light fixtures make a big impact on the overall design of an area, even a small kitchen alcove. Adding or replacing the fixtures or lighting sources can transform the area. Set your budget for the project before you begin decorating the alcove with lighting. It's helpful to know how much money you're working with before making any decisions. Like most home improvement projects, lighting options span a wide range of prices. This means nearly anyone can afford to dress up a kitchen alcove. Don't forget to factor in the services of an electrician in the budget if major lighting changes are in order.


Instructions


1. Identify the purpose of the kitchen alcove. Decide how it is used. Common uses are displays or storage. An appliance or functional area of the kitchen is sometimes located in a larger alcove depending on the design of the room.








2. Determine the type of lighting needed in the alcove based on its purpose. For alcoves that serve as a display area, accent lighting is the main type of lighting needed. An alcove that holds a functional area of the kitchen needs task lighting to produce plenty of light to work in the area.


3. Take measurements of the alcove so you know how much clearance you have for the lighting. Measure the height, width and depth of the area. Measure any trim pieces that create a lip around the front of the alcove.


4. Make a quick sketch of the alcove for a visual reference. Add in the measurements on the sketch so you have them handy.








5. Analyze the overall decorating style of the kitchen. Consider the types of lights that work well for that style. Choose light fixtures with a similar style. A rustic-style light fixtures doesn't work well in a modern kitchen.


6. Assess the electrical sources available in the alcove. If you're simply replacing a light fixture you shouldn't have much difficulty. If there isn't a power source already installed in the area, you'll likely need the help of a professional electrician.


7. Visit the home improvement store to decide on the appropriate light fixtures for the alcove. Consider all of the factors when picking the lighting. For accent lighting, consider a strand of white Christmas lights hidden behind a piece of trim for a subtle glow. For task lighting, consider a recessed light with an adjustable beam. Other options to consider include light sconces, back lighting to highlight the shapes of displayed pieces, a decorative ceiling fixture or a pendant light for larger alcoves.


8. Install the selected light to determine how well it fits your needs. Make adjustments as necessary to achieve the desired lighting effect.

Tags: light fixtures, accent lighting, area kitchen, functional area, functional area kitchen, home improvement

Side Effects Of Fluorescent Light

Fluorescent bulbs can cause eye pain, headaches, and worsen other disorders


Fluorescent bulbs are often blamed for headaches and general eye pain in the work place. Research may indicate that these side effects are real and just the beginning of side effects that could be caused by this type of lighting. Modern advances in light bulbs are now available to give consumers several options when choosing a fluorescent bulb that won't put such a strain on their eyes.








Mental/Seizure Disorders


Fluorescent light bulbs can be a trigger for anxiety disorders, according to healthcentral.com. This is due in part to the "unnatural" glow of fluorescent bulbs that creates a disconnect from an anxiety sufferer's sense of reality. The electricity in fluorescent bulbs cycles every 60 seconds, which impacts those that suffer from photosensitive reflex epilepsy. Seizures are caused by flashes of light or other visual stimuli, making light cycles of fluorescent bulbs problematic.


Vestibular Disorders


Vestibular disorders affect the human center of balance (the inner ear) creating symptoms of vertigo, imbalance and dizziness among others. Fluorescent light worsens these symptoms due to its brightness and lack of warm light emission. Those experiencing symptoms of a vestibular disorder should avoid department stores and other situations where fluorescent light may be in great concentration.


Headaches and Migraines


The power cycle, or light flicker of fluorescent bulbs using ballasts to stabilize electrical flow may cause eye pain, headaches and migraines in those prone to the fluctuation of sensory information processed by the optic nerve. Pain is reported most often in bulbs using magnetic ballasts that are an older model of fluorescent bulb. Modern ballasts are electronic and use magnets.

Tags: fluorescent bulbs, bulbs using, cause pain, cause pain headaches, fluorescent bulb, Fluorescent bulbs, light bulbs

What Products Remove Scotch Tape From Wood Paneling

Scotch tape is available in a varitey of styles and usage.


Scotch tape is versatile adhesive tape that you can use on a variety of surfaces. The tape is typically easy to remove, however, when it sits on wood paneling for an extended period of time, removal can be a bit difficult. Fortunately, there are a variety of products that will remove the tape from your wood paneling.








Heat


Heat will soften the adhesive that gives the tape its ability to stick, allowing for easier removal. Apply heat by holding a hairdryer set on a low to medium temperature setting 4 to 6 inches above the tape. Gently pull the tape off the wood paneling with one hand while holding the hairdryer with the other. Once you have removed the tape, clean off any leftover residue by rubbing the wood paneling with a pencil eraser and wiping with a damp cloth.


Rubbing Alcohol


Rubbing alcohol is inexpensive, versatile and will remove tape -- along with any adhesive residue -- from a variety of hard surfaces including your wood paneling. Saturate a corner of a clean cloth with rubbing alcohol and scrub the tape in a back-and-forth motion. If the cloth becomes dry, add more rubbing alcohol and continue rubbing the tape until you can peel it off or it slides off the wood paneling. Clean the wood paneling with sponge dampened in warm, soapy water. Wipe dry with a towel.


Nail Polish Remover


The product that removes nail polish from your fingernails will clean stuck tape from your paneling. The nail polish remover must contain acetone, which dissolves the glue that adheres the tape to surfaces. Rub the edges of the tape for several seconds with a cotton swab saturated in the nail polish remover. Slowly pull the tape from the paneling. When you meet resistance, continue rubbing with the saturated cotton swab until the tape pulls free. Do not let the nail polish remover stay on the wood paneling for an extended period of time. The acetone can damage wood finish.


Water-Displacing Spray


Water-displacing spray -- such as WD-40 -- removes sticky substance and difficult to remove adhesive from a variety of hard surfaces. The spray will not damage or discolor your wood paneling. Saturate the tape with the water-displacing spray and let sit for several seconds. Rub the tape off the wood paneling with a damp cloth. If needed, apply more water-displacing spray to the tape and continue rubbing. Clean the wood paneling with a sponge dampened in soapy water. Dry the paneling with a towel.

Tags: wood paneling, paneling with, wood paneling with, your wood paneling, continue rubbing

Thursday, May 12, 2011

Prepare A Bathroom Ceiling And Walls For Paint

You will need a paint sraper to remove damaged old paint.


Prepping your walls and ceiling before painting is an extremely important step to ensure your bathroom looks its best. Properly done prep work will ensure that your paint does not bubble, become moldy or mildew over time. Fortunately, this work can be done in just an afternoon, but it is extremely important to have proper ventilation in the bathroom before you begin. Taking a few minutes to open all the windows and doors will help the paint dry quicker and prevent you from inhaling paint chemicals.


Instructions


1. Examine the integrity of your walls and ceiling. Look for cracks, holes, bubbling paint or other signs of damage.


2. Use bleach diluted with water (about 1 tablespoon per gallon) to wash your walls. If you see any signs of mold or mildew, use a stronger bleach solution or pure bleach to remove it. The bleach will kill the mold and other bacteria. Be careful when using this solution on the ceiling. Wear goggles and a face mask to avoid injuring yourself.


3. Use a paint scraper to remove thick layers of paint from cement walls or bubbling paint. Bubbles under the paint are signs of trapped moisture and in some cases can indicate a leak. They are particularly worrisome if seen on exterior walls and roofs because they may indicate the ceiling is giving way, so contact a professional repairman if you observe these issues. Use the scraper to remove all of the paint from the walls and ceilings. If the paint is smooth and shows no signs of damage, do not scrape it off.


4. Sand the walls that are not damaged by water or mold. Also sand areas with cracked paint or holes in the walls. Sand until the wall is smooth.


5. Fill the holes in the walls and cracks in the ceiling (after ensuring they do not indicate structural damage) using a filler or plaster. Sand the filler smooth after it has dried. The drying time will vary depending on the brand, so check your products' packaging.








6. Paint the walls with a coat of primer after you have cleaned and smoothed all the walls. Look for a primer made specifically for bathrooms because these are made specifically for damp environments. Your bathroom is now ready to be painted.

Tags: your walls, bubbling paint, extremely important, holes walls, made specifically, paint from

Suspended Ceiling Light Fixture Support Requirements

Ceiling fans are medium to heavyweight fixtures.


Home designers most commonly use suspended ceiling lights in places like entryways and dining rooms where a lower hanging fixture will provide the lighting needed. Shop lights, chandeliers, ceiling fans and pendant light fixtures may require different support systems, depending on the weight of the fixture. A number of different types of mounting boxes and devices are available.


Lightweight Fixtures


Most flush-mount, single-light fixtures are lightweight.


Standard junction boxes, designed to be nailed to ceiling joists, are appropriate for very lightweight lighting fixtures, such as flush-mounted fixtures.








Medium Weight Fixtures


Many pendant light fixtures are of medium weight.


Junction boxes with expanding devices on the sides and Madison hangers are generally recommended for use with lighting fixtures less than 50 pounds. This recommendation results because of the relatively small area to which they anchor. Most chandeliers and ceiling fans are too heavy for this type of hanger, although they are appropriate for some pendant light fixtures. Don't over-tighten the expanding device; the tension it puts on the joists can cause nail pops in the drywall below


Heavyweight Fixtures


Chandeliers are heavy to very heavy.


Chandeliers range in size but are generally considered heavy to very heavy. You should secure hanging light fixtures, such as chandeliers and ceiling fans, to the house's permanent structure. You should suspend lighting fixtures weighing between 50 and 100 pounds with a mounting bar that has an expanding feature. This expanding feature allows you to tighten the bar between ceiling joists. Remember to leave enough clearance to attach an electrical box to the bar. The bottom of the box should be flush with the ceiling surface.

Tags: light fixtures, ceiling fans, chandeliers ceiling, chandeliers ceiling fans, lighting fixtures, pendant light, pendant light fixtures

Wednesday, May 11, 2011

Kitchen Bar Design Ideas

You have nearly endless ways to construct a kitchen bar.


A bar space in the kitchen can work well for cooking and social gathering. Multiple cooks can use a bar area while family members or friends are seated for conversation. The amount of space you have to work with will determine a lot about your design, but look at options for various shapes, workable traffic patterns around the bar and interesting materials to incorporate.


Experiment With Shapes


Begin the design shape based on accurate dimensions. Draw a plan using graph paper to see what works best. For example, if your kitchen is square in shape, use a round or square bar in the middle of the room. Other choices include a peninsula-shaped bar hooked to one wall with seating on one side or an L-shaped bar with seating on two sides. With an L-shape, you can cook standing inside the L-shape with family or guests seated to face you.


Look at Storage Options


Figure out if the bar will hold storage. You can install cabinets or drawers in the bar, or you can build sliding doors with shelving under the bar space. Another option is to construct open shelving under the bar that will hold large baskets for storing items. You can add a pot rack over the bar space if the ceiling is high enough.


Add Wiring and Plumbing


A cooktop and sink can be part of the bar. Electricity and plumbing can be routed via a basement area underneath or down through a column attached to attic space. Examine various ways to bring in water pipes, a drain line and electrical outlets for small appliances or an electric skillet.


Incorporate Visual Interest


Give the bar design visual appeal. Use white beadboard paneling with a black countertop, for example. Use red, white and black hardware to brighten up the space. You can install porcelain ceramic tiles on three sides of the bar, leaving one side for closable doors to hide storage underneath the bar. You can create multiple levels of counter space, too. Build a two-level bar with one counter that is 12 inches lower for eating, and add bar stools that fit the dining counter height.


Install Good Counter Material


Create a bar design with high-quality countertop material. You can install butcher block material in one section and granite tiles in another. The bar will be highly visible in the center of the room, so the countertop material will set the stage for the room's d cor. By investing in costlier materials for a highly-visible bar, you will add an upscale look to the entire kitchen.

Tags: countertop material, shelving under, will hold, with seating

Paint A Ceiling After The Popcorn Is Removed

A putty knife can be used to apply joint compound.


Popcorn ceilings were popular from the 70s through the 80s and were often used to add texture or prevent sound from carrying out of the room. Unfortunately, textured ceilings are known for collecting dirt, making it a challenge to clean them and keep them clean. Homeowners often opt to remove the texture to create a smooth ceiling. After it has been removed, repairs may need to be made to the ceiling before homeowners can begin the process of painting.








Instructions


1. Place the joint compound into the mixing tray and mix it well with a putty knife.


2. Apply joint compound into any holes or imperfections on the ceiling.


3. Spread the joint compound to make the areas flush with the drywall.


4. Sand off any high spots, using a sanding pad attached to an extension pole.


5. Apply more joint compound if necessary, then re-sand over the areas.


6. Apply a coat of primer, designed for drywall, onto the entire ceiling.


7. Let the primer dry completely, overnight if possible.


8. Paint the ceiling with the paint color of your choice, using a clean, dry paint roller.

Tags: joint compound, compound into, joint compound into, putty knife