Electrical boxes are made of metal and are installed in walls and ceilings to house electrical outlets, light fixtures and other electrical wiring. Since electrical wires must be threaded through the boxes, they come with semi-cut areas call knockouts. When installing the wiring for your latest electrical project, you choose which knockout is most convenient and remove the rest. Removing knockouts can be done with nothing more than a few hand tools.
Instructions
1. Look at the electrical box and locate the partially perforated areas, called knockouts. Hold the electrical outlet in place where you will install it and locate the knockout that is closest to where the wires are.
2. Insert the tip of a flat-head screwdriver into one of the perforations and bend the handle backward to bend the knockout away from the box. If the knockout does not bend easily, hit the top of the screwdriver handle with a hammer to bend it.
3. Grasp the bent section of the knockout with a pair of pliers and twist the handles of the pliers away from the electrical box with firm pressure to pop off the knock out.
4. Insert a metal file into the inside of the knockout hole and file away any sharp edges using a back-and-forth motion.
Many floor tiles have a slightly beveled edge for depth.
You have to choose what kind of tile edge will complete the look you are going for during your tiling project. Bullnose and beveled edges are available, along with flat tiles that don't have the decorative edge. Depending on your personal style, either works well.
Bevel
A beveled edge consists of a cut along the edge of the tile that gives a sharp, angled edge as opposed to the square edges of flat tiles. The beveled edge can vary in the degree of the angle, ranging from only barely noticeable to prominent. When choosing a beveled tile for your project, work with the angled, beveled edge to create a statement in your work. Often, a bevel will be either a quarter- or half-bevel; the half creates a wider angled area than the quarter.
Bullnose
Bullnose tiles are rounded as opposed to the angled bevel or square flat tiles. Like the beveled edge, you can get a variety of different effects and types of bullnosed edge. A full bullnose, for example, is a completely rounded edge from the front to the back of the tile. From the side, the full bullnose resembles a half circle. A half-bullnose edge is just what the name implies: from the side it appears to be a quarter section of a circle. The demi-bullnose, on the other hand, is almost . For tiles, a full bullnose is almost obsolete as the completely rounded edge takes away from the functionality of the tile.
Choosing
For floor tiles, the beveled edge often gives a more natural look as opposed to square-edge tiles. You can find beveled edges in many types of vinyl tiles as well as natural tiles. If you're edging a countertop, the choice comes down to personality. The sharp, angled edges of beveled tiles create one statement while the rounded edges of bullnose tile create a more flowing appearance. Many times, either will work well no matter what your personal style. If you're using a stone that has more tendency to chip than other types of stone, the beveled edge might chip easier than the bullnose.
Other Edges
Several other options of edges ar available, particularly for countertops. Instead of beveled or bullnose (or any of their respective cuts), you can also find more decorative edges such as the ogee edge, which somewhat resembles an S from the side. Ogee is more traditional and is often the most expensive option. The Dupont edge, or bird's beak edge, is rounded like a demi-bullnose with the exception of a notch at the top. Depending on the manufacturer, you may also find waterfall edges, which consist of three layers that angle down, giving the appearance of a flowing, waterfall-like look.
Tags: beveled edge, completely rounded, flat tiles, full bullnose, also find, beveled edges
If you are looking for a high-quality, low-cost light to install in your dropped ceiling, consider using a fluorescent light fixture. They come in 2-by-2-foot and 2-by-4-foot sizes. Fluorescent light fixtures install quickly into a ceiling grid because they just lay in the grid with a few support wires running from them up to the ceiling joists.
Instructions
1. Turn the power circuit off that will control the light. This will prevent you from receiving a dangerous electrical shock.
2. Measure the distance from the ceiling grid to the ceiling joists above. Cut four lengths of chain at this measurement.
3. Insert a "S-hook" in each mounting hole on the fluorescent light fixture. There should be one mounting hole per corner of the light.
4. Screw in a hanging hook to the ceiling joist directly above where each mounting hole will be on the light once the light is laid in the ceiling grid.
5. Set the light into the ceiling grid. Install a chain from each "S-hook" to each hanging hook. When properly installed, the light should be exerting little to no force downward on the ceiling grid. Slack in the chain means you need to move it up a notch or two and if the light hangs above the grid, you will need to move the chain back down a notch or two.
6. Open up the light on the bottom of the light to access the internal components of the fluorescent light. Locate the levers on one side of the light and pull them down. The diffuser panel should then detach from the light on that side and rotate downward.
7. Run electrical power wiring from your light's power source to your fluorescent light. Connect the wiring to the light with an electrical connector.
8. Connect the black wire from the power source to the black wire in the light. Connect the white wire from the power source to the white wire in the light. Connect the ground wire to the green screw within the light.
9. Insert the correct fluorescent bulbs into your light. Refer to for proper type and sizing. Close the light diffuser panel by rotating it back upward and pushing up on the levers.
10. Turn the power back on to your light. It should now turn on when you engage the power source.
Tags: ceiling grid, power source, your light, diffuser panel, fluorescent light
Lighting is one of the most powerful special effects at work in modern theater. It is not only necessary for the audience to see the actors, but shapes how they feel about the entire play. Through the use of specific techniques such as angles, colors and intensity, it is possible to influence an audience's emotional response, therefore increasing the power of performance. Known as the McCandless method, a few basic principles guide even the most elaborate productions.
Dividing the Stage
Though there are many different types of performance spaces, the majority of traditional theaters are prosceniums, where the audience sits in front of a raised stage. Prosceniums theaters are large and can be difficult to light. For this reason, it is important to divide the stage into not only stage right, left, up and down, but into smaller circles. The placement of these imaginary circles are based on the movement of the actors during the performance. Lighting crews will work on one circle at a time, so it is possible to control all areas of the stage individually, but with equal detail.
Lighting the Actors
It should come as no surprise that one of the most essential parts of the lighting process is to make sure that the audience can see the performers. For this reason, most lighting crews focus on this aspect first, before moving on to more complex techniques. Illuminating the actor is usually done with intense white lights, such as PAR spots, which are focused on a specific area. The performer is usually lit from all sides, with the majority of attention going to side and top lighting. Although costuming, like a hat, may complicate the angle, the purpose of this process is to make sure it is easy to see the most important aspect of just about any performance---the actors.
The Importance of Scenery
Another aspect of theater that lighting reveals is scenery and props. Once the actors are lit, most designers shift their attention to the rear and sides of the main performance space, to the scenery, such as walls and trees. Such lighting is less intense, but usually still done in traditional or neutral colors. Fresnels and PAR spots allow light to be cast at an extreme angle. Sometimes scenery, especially a sky or other background detail, is accomplished through focusing colored lights on a huge display screen that stretches across the stage.
Details, Details, Details
The kind of lighting special effects and real technique we often associate with theatre are not applied until the actors and the performance space are fully illuminated. Colors, shaped beam focuses and effects are the details that make or break a performance by influencing how the audience responds to it. While a horizontal angle might be best for a drama, a sharper angle might be better for a comedy. Similarly, darker or cool colors such as blues lend themselves toward serious subjects because they elicit negative emotional responses. Sometimes further techniques are needed, such as flash lighting or the use of a follow spot. For example, lightning strikes are often created using rapid flashes and spotlights are essential when the actor moves outside the traditional performance space, such as into the wings or audience. This process of detail lighting is unique to every designer and performance.
Tags: performance space, angle might, Details Details, make sure, process make
Covering a damaged ceiling with faux tin tiles is an inexpensive option for redecorating. Once you've addressed the source of the damage, whether it's a leaky roof or pipe, or simply old and peeling plaster, calculate the square footage of the ceiling by multiplying its length times its width in feet. Take this measurement to the store with you when you buy the tiles, and plan to spend about a day on this project.
Instructions
1. Divide the area of the ceiling by the area of one faux tin tile at the store. This will tell you the number of tiles you need for the job. Buy a few extra in case you make a mistake when cutting the tiles.
2. Remove portable items from the room and spread a plastic tarp to protect items you can't move. Put on safety glasses, set up your ladder and remove overhead light fixtures, scrape away loose plaster, peeled paper and old paint.
3. Snap a through the center of the ceiling. The first row of faux tin tiles will be lined up along this mark.
4. Dot tile adhesive on the back of each ceiling tile at each of its four corners and at the center. If the ceiling is textured, you may need a little bit more adhesive on each tile.
5. Line up the edge of the tile carefully on the chalk line. Press firmly and hold for at least 10 seconds while the adhesive bonds.
6. Continue setting and pressing faux tin tiles outward toward the walls. At the last row before the wall, measure the remaining distance with a tape measure. Cut tiles to fit with a sharp utility knife and a straight edge.
Wall cladding both decorates and weatherizes home exteriors.
Improve the appearance and insulation value of any building with wall cladding. Wall cladding is a non-structural covering installed over structural surfaces. It is composed of a variety of building materials and made to tolerate extreme weather conditions. While builders predominantly install wall cladding on exterior surfaces of buildings and structures, also use it to improve any interior surface.
Advantages
Wall cladding is easy to install over all existing surfaces, including weatherboard; an entire home can be completed in under a week. hides imperfections in a structure's finish and works well as an insulator with existing wall and roof insulation. It also serves as a noise insulator and, if installed properly, resists termites, moisture and fire. Wall cladding lasts a long time with minimal maintenance; most cladding comes with lifetime warranties of up to 50 years.
Types
Wall cladding can be made from vinyl, aluminum, steel, fiber cement, brick, stone, timber and weatherboard, among other materials, each with their own advantages and drawbacks. Vinyl, for example, is one of the easiest to maintain. Timber, on the other hand, is one of the most popular for its visual appeal, but is also difficult to maintain. Stone provides both visual appeal and strong insulation, but is costly. Fiber cement, while plainer, is also a strong insulator and more cost-effective.
Considerations
Choosing wall cladding depends on factors of appearance, strength and durability, weather-resistance, insulation value, maintenance and cost. All types of wall cladding give buildings a different look. Personal taste and style of the home and neighborhood help determine the appropriate types to use. Resistance to wind, water and snow may be a factor as well as resistance to physical, mechanical damage and load-bearing properties. Differences in cost and the amount of cleaning and maintenance you're willing to perform may help narrow the selection further.
Installation
While homeowners can install certain types of wall cladding, such as vinyl, on their own, most wall cladding should be installed by the manufacturer itself or a company to which they contract out the job. That way you get all the protections outlined in the warranty. Also hire a bonded and insured carpenter to install wall cladding and still receive protections from faulty work. Whoever installs your wall provide a free measurement, time estimate and quote, as well as make themselves available for questions and to help you choose the best cladding for your circumstances.
Decorative Interior Cladding
One other type of wall cladding not used for weather protection or insulation value is decorative cladding used to add texture, color and decoration to a building's interior. For example, this may come in the form of a solid brick, marble or mosaic wall or an ornate cornice sculpted from plaster or cement.
Tags: , insulation value, Wall cladding, wall cladding, cladding should
Drop ceilings are made from lightweight panels that are suspended a few inches from the overhead joists in the basement. They provide a good sound barrier and allow room for ducts, pipes and cables so that they can be reached easily if they need repair. The basement ceiling height should be at least 7-1/2 feet, so make sure you'll have enough headroom before you proceed. Installation is done with common tools and can be accomplished in a weekend.
Instructions
1. Mark the wall 4 inches down from the ceiling joists around all four sides of the room. Make sure none of the joists are lower than the others. If they are, measure from the lowest joist. Use a level to draw a straight line connecting the marks.
2. Locate the wall studs and nail the perimeter moulding along the lines. Align the top of the moulding with the line. If the basement walls are concrete, screw the molding into place.
3. Install the main runners 4 feet apart perpendicular to the joists by setting the ends into the perimeter moulding. If the runners do not fit evenly in the space, offset them around the edges so that smaller tiles can be placed around the edge of the ceiling.
4. Use small screw eyes and 16-gauge wire to provide support for the runners from every third joist. Loop the wire through the screw eye, attach it to the runner and twist it 3 or 4 times. Use a string line as you work across the ceiling to make sure the runners are even.
5. Hook the cross tees, or cross runners, 2 feet apart along the runners. If they don't fit evenly, leave a space around the outside. Slide the center panels into place to help keep the grid square. Cut cross tees to fit the outside space and install them.
6. Cut panels with a utility knife with the finished side facing up to fit into the spaces around the room. Finish installing the panels.
Tags: Ceiling Basement, cross tees, Drop Ceiling, , feet apart, Install Drop
A smooth ceiling has a neat, clean, modern appearance.
A ceilings textured with joint compound is also known as "popcorn ceiling" or "cottage cheese ceiling." Cheesy is right -- this fad ran its course from the 1960s through the 1980s and now only serves to make a room look dated. Textured ceilings are dust traps and are hard to clean or paint. After leaks or repairs, it's almost impossible to patch a spot so it blends with the original texture. Removing it is a messy but manageable task for most homeowners, with a result you'll find worth the effort.
Instructions
Room Preparations
1. Take everything out of the room, such as furnishings, wall hangings and area rugs. Shut the electricity off in the room. Turn off the fan, air conditioner or heating. Close the windows and eliminate any possibility for drafts.
2. Remove light fixtures or ceiling fans if any are present. Cover vents, outlets and electrical wiring with plastic garbage bags large enough to cover the area, and affix the plastic to the wall with painter's tape to seal it off.
3. Cover the floors with plastic drop cloths. Tape the edges of the plastic drop cloths to the walls just above the molding or base boards, going all the way around the room.
4. Set up a ladder so you can reach the ceilings. Tape plastic drop cloths to the walls just below the ceiling. Go all around the room to cover all walls, doors and windows.
5. Wash the textured a big sponge using mild dish detergent and a bucket of water. Go over it more than once, if necessary. Change the water whenever it starts to get dark and dirty.
6. Lay down resin paper on the floors, slightly overlapping the strips. Put on protective eye wear, a dust mask or respirator and work gloves. Wear them whenever you are in the room to protect yourself from dust and debris.
Removing the Joint Compound
7. Spray water on a 6-foot section of the ceiling using a garden sprayer or spray pump bottle. Allow the water to soak in for about 15 minutes.
8. Scrape the joint compound with a 6-inch compound knife. Keep the blade flat against the ceiling as you scrape, being careful not to damage the drywall or drywall tape behind the joint compound. If the textured compound is still hard and resistant, spray it and allow it to soak up some more water, and try again in 10 minutes.
9. Continue wetting the joint compound texture in 6-foot sections, being careful to avoid wetting the drywall. Scrape away the ceiling section by section until the joint compound is gone. Let the ceiling dry if any of the drywall has gotten wet.
10. Replace any drywall tape that has peeled off or come loose. Fill any cracks, joints or holes in the ceiling with new joint compound, smoothing it flat with a compound knife. Let it dry.
11. Sand the ceiling with a pole sander and fine-grit paper to smooth out the new application of joint compound. Give the dust 30 minutes or so to settle.
Cleaning Up The Mess
12. Roll up the paper, one strip at a time, encasing as much debris in it as possible. Place each immediately into a trash can. Try not to kick up dust as you work.
13. Remove the plastic and tape from the walls and set it on the floor. Peel off the tape and roll up the plastic floor drop cloths, directing all debris to the center of a drop cloth. Roll the plastic up and dispose of it.
14. Vacuum excess dust and debris. Your ceiling is ready for priming, painting or whatever new treatment you desire.
Tags: drop cloths, ceiling with, joint compound, , plastic drop, plastic drop cloths
Tin ceiling tiles are often embossed with decorative and elaborate patterns that can add character to many home decorating projects. Old ceiling tiles may have peeling paint that can enhance a shabby chic, rustic or French country-style d cor. Local home improvement stores and online retailers offer new tin ceiling tiles. Search local architectural salvage yards for old and distressed ceiling tiles.
Decorative Wall Mirror
Create a decorative wall mirror using a single tin ceiling tile to hold the mirror. Attach a mirror panel much smaller than the tile dimensions onto the center of the ceiling tile. Make sure that you attach the mirror to the tile with mirror mastic to protect the mirror. If you prefer to make a large wall mirror, attach four ceiling tiles to a thin plywood board in a square formation. Center a mirror panel or a mirror tile on the four tin tiles. In both wall mirror designs, the tin ceiling tiles become a decorative border for the mirror.
Tin Tile Headboard
Decorate your bedroom with a headboard custom designed to fit any size bed using 1/4-inch-thick plywood and tin ceiling tiles. Cut the plywood to the desired dimensions and finish the edges with iron-on veneer. Cover one side of the plywood with rows of tin ceiling tiles. Construction adhesive or finishing nails work to hold the tiles in place. Hang the tiled headboard on the wall behind the bed.
Tiled Tabletop
Cover the top of a coffee table, occasional table or dining table with tin ceiling tiles to instantly change the look and feel of the piece. Construction adhesive or viscous craft glue will hold the tiles in place on the tabletop. The embossed nature of tin ceiling tiles is not conducive to uniform pressure. Cover the tiles with a sheet of glass to keep the table as functional furniture.
Tiled Cabinets
Reface your kitchen cabinet doors, an armoire or chest of drawers with tin ceiling tiles. Center the tiles onto the fronts of door panels, cover sides of furniture or cut the tiles to fit drawer fronts. Glue the tiles in place or attach them with finishing nails.
Tiled Planter
Enhance the outside of plain wood or plastic planters with tin ceiling tiles. Center the tiles onto the sides of the planter or cover the planters completely. Coat the tiles with exterior polyurethane spray to protect them from the elements and you can use the decorative planters outdoors.
Install Manufactured Stone Veneers on a Fireplace Rock Board
Manufactured gives fireplaces the appearance of being constructed of . Veneer is made of aggregates and formed in molds. It weighs much less than natural stone, lending itself to applications that would not support the weight of natural stone. The preformed corner pieces make it easier for do-it-yourself homeowners to achieve a professional quality installation. The wide variety of textures and colors allow a range of choices to make your fireplace a source of pride and accomplishment.
Instructions
1. Install metal lath on the rock board with galvanized roofing nails. The metal lath installs with the cups toward the ceiling, so it feels rough when you run your hand downward. Hammer the nails into the studs behind the rock board 6 inches apart.
2. Cover the floor area around the fireplace with drop cloths. Spread another drop cloth near the work area for staging the stone veneer. Place the stone veneer in the planned installation order.
3. Mix the mortar to the consistency of thick cake batter. Begin at the top to install the stone veneer and work from the corner inward. Use a masonry trowel to apply enough mortar to the lath to cover an area for two or three stones. Apply the mortar about ½-inch thick.
4. Cover the back of the stone veneer with a thin layer of mortar and place on the mortared area of the rock board. Apply enough pressure to the stone veneer to squeeze the mortar out around the stone. Hold the stone veneer in place for a few minutes to ensure a good bond. Use a drill driver to drive screws partially into the rock board at the bottom edge of the stone veneer to hold it in place. Two screws will usually hold each stone. Continue the process until the entire fireplace is covered. Allow the mortar to dry.
5. Remove the screws from between the rows of stone veneer. Mix mortar to the consistency of cake batter and place in a grout bag. Squeeze the mortar from the grout bag to fill in the gaps between the stones. Avoid getting the grout onto the stone veneer because it can stain.
6. Allow the grout to dry. Test for drying with your thumb--the mortar is dry when the thumbprint remains. Use a wooden dowel or a striking tool to remove the excess grout between the stones. Strive for a uniform appearance to the joints. Use a stencil brush to seal and compact the grout completely, sealing the edges of the stone. Lightly brush the grout joints with a whisk broom to remove any loose mortar.
Tags: stone veneer, natural stone, rock board, between stones, cake batter
The purpose of door and window trim is to hide the gap between the door and the window casing and between a window frame and the studs in the wall. There really are no differences in installation method between the two types of molding. You can even use the same trim profile to trim your windows and doors. The trim can be nailed into place with a hammer, but it is much easier and typically neater to use a pneumatic nailer to install trim.
Instructions
1. Measure from the floor for a door casing or from the sill for a window casing to both top corners of the door or window frame with a tape measure. Measure the width of the top edge of the door or window casing as well.
2. Cut three pieces of trim molding to the measurements taken in Step 1. Use a miter saw to make 45-degree cuts at the corners, using your measurements to mark the inside, or short end, of each 45-degree cut.
3. Use a block plane to shave the back sides of the mitered cuts off a little so the front sides of the molding will fit together tightly.
4. Hold one of the side pieces of molding up to the window or door frame, allow 3/16-inch of window or door casing to show and nail the trim into place with a pneumatic brad or finish nailer.
5. glue to the mitered edge of the piece of top trim and put it in its place above the door or window. Fit the mitered corner together and nail the glued side into place.
6. to the mitered cut on the last piece of trim and place the trim where it belongs on the other side of the door or window. Fit the mitered edges together and nail that side of the top piece of trim into place, followed by the side trim piece.
Tags: door window, into place, window casing, Apply wood, Apply wood glue
Since its creation over a century ago, the Tiffany lamp has been a symbol of elegance and originality. These lamps feature ornate shades made of stained glass arranged in geometric patterns. Many of the shade patterns are inspired by nature, and may include flowers, insects or wildlife. Each lamp was handmade by skilled artisans, and original Tiffany lamps can sell for large sums of money. The history of this company is quite surprisingly, from its early inspiration to recent developments.
Louis Comfort Tiffany
In 1848, Louis Comfort Tiffany was born in the United States. His father was the founder of the famous Tiffany & Co. jewelry store. Rather than follow in his father's footsteps, Louis Comfort turned to his true passion, which was art. He dabbled in painting and sculpture early on, but was interested in all types of fine art. During the 1870s, he traveled to London and toured the Victoria and Albert Museum. He was impressed by the ancient Romans' use of colored glass, and decided to incorporate glass into his artwork.
Tiffany Glass is Created
After returning home, Tiffany set up an interior design business in New York. He focused on bringing his love of fine art into his clients' homes, which included the White House under Chester Arthur, as well as the home of writer Mark Twain. While decorating homes, he often added stained glass features, inspired by the exhibits he had seen in London. In 1875, he founded the Tiffany Glass Company because he was dissatisfied with the glass on the market. By 1880, he had patented his own type of glass, called Favrile, after the French term for "handmade." His Favrile glass possessed many of the qualities he admired in the stained glass used throughout history, including a shimmery iridescence and natural blend of colors.
The First Tiffany Lamp
In the late 19th century, Louis Tiffany was working on the design of a movie theater called the Lyceum. The designer in charge of the lighting for the theater was Thomas Edison. As Tiffany installed his famous stained glass windows in the Lyceum, Edison suggested he combine the beautiful glass with his own invention of the electric light bulb in the form of a lamp. In 1899, Tiffany created and sold his first lamp, though it was powered by oil, not electricity. It features a bronze base topped with an ornate glass shade. The shade itself was handmade from Tiffany's Favrile glass and lead soldering. By 1906, Tiffany had developed more than 300 shade designs. His lamps were an immediate hit with those wealthy enough to afford them.
Tiffany Through the 1920s
From 1900 to 1920, Louis Tiffany oversaw every step in the production process of his lamps. He has been credited with developing many famous shade designs, including the Magnolia, the Wisteria, and the famous Dragonfly. In 1918 he retired, but still kept a close watch on his company and its craftsmen. By the 1920s, new styles and trends had replaced the art nouveau style of the earlier decades, and the Tiffany lamp began to fall out of style. Through the 1920s and early 1930s, the company stayed afloat by selling furnaces and other goods. In 1933, Louis Tiffany died, his company all but bankrupt.
Clara Driscoll
By the late 20th century, an original Tiffany lamp was considered a valuable collector's item, and some models had sold for well over $2 million at fine arts auctions. This is considered a true testament to the design brilliance of the lamp. By the early 21st century, the credit for that design brilliance would no longer be given entirely to Louis Tiffany. A Rutgers professor who was doing research on the company came across a collection of letters at Ohio's Kent State University. The letters were written by Clara Driscoll, who had started work at the Tiffany Glass Company in 1887. From her letters, researchers were able to deduce that most of the famous Tiffany lamp designs were created by Driscoll, not by Louis Tiffany. A 2007 exhibit at the New York Historical Society finally gave Driscoll the design credit she had earned nearly a century before.
Tags: Louis Tiffany, stained glass, Louis Comfort, Tiffany Glass, Clara Driscoll, Comfort Tiffany
Turn your outdoor living area into a space where you can enjoy dining alfresco with the addition of an outdoor kitchen. This feature allows you and your friends and family to enjoy a casual snack or an elaborate meal while surrounded by the beauty of nature.
Flooring
When designing your , one of the first elements to select is the flooring as it will set the stage for the space and the remaining elements are built upon it. Choose a material that will withstand the wear and tear of the elements and high traffic and will also add to the look you wish to achieve. Brick is a sturdy material and will give youroutdoor kitchen a rustic vibe. Natural materials, such as travertine or river rock, present a natural look and are quite durable.
Overhead Structure
An overhead structure enables you to use your outdoor kitchen even when the sun is blazing and the rain is pouring. Install a permanent or retractable awning over the space. Insert a series of large umbrellas into the ground that you can open and close as needed to allow you and your guests to enjoy the sun and stars when desired. If possible, build a ceiling with tongue-and-groove planks that extend from your existing roof line or that is supported by pillars built into the ground.
Counters
Counters are necessary in an outdoor kitchen for the same reason they are necessary in an indoor kitchen--to provide a surface to store things and prepare food on. Give your kitchen a cohesive look by using the same material you used on the floor--brick, travertine or river rock, for example. Granite is another option to give your kitchen a luxurious look, but it is also very resilient. A countertop made of recycled glass mixed with concrete is another attractive and sturdy choice for the space.
Appliances
Appliances are what make a kitchen a kitchen. For an outdoor kitchen, the grill is the main cooking element. You can choose anything from a built-in, state-of-the-art, commercial-grade grill to a smaller charcoal barbecue. An outdoor kitchen is an ideal space to install a brick oven or a wood burning stove. You can also include a gas cooktop to use to boil pots of water for corn and pasta or for pan-sauteing and searing.
Furnishings
Furnishings make your outdoor kitchen usable and comfortable. A table and chairs made of aluminum, wrought iron or wood provide a spot to enjoy cooked meals. Fans installed overhead or placed on the ground keep the area cool. Pendant lights, torches and candles illuminate the space. You can even lay a rug made of jute or another material that can stand up to the sun and rain to soften the room.
Tags: outdoor kitchen, your outdoor, your outdoor kitchen, brick oven, give your, into ground
Learn whether you can install track lighting to a dropped ceiling.
Track lighting provides an effective way to direct light in a specific area of your room. The thin tiles that make up dropped ceilings don't usually provide the necessary strength to support track lighting, but with a few adjustments, you can install track lighting to your dropped ceiling.
Track Lighting
Track lighting is aptly named, since it consists of a track that is mounted to the ceiling. A track lighting system typically consists of a mounting bracket, connector, screws and track. The light fixtures are attached to the track with adjustable necks so that they can be adjusted and directed at the desired area. This grouping of several light fixtures attached to the wall-mounted track provides a lighting option that is particularly effective for long, narrow rooms.
Drop Ceilings
Dropped ceilings, or suspended ceilings, are installed below the structural ceiling and are covered with panels or tiles. The panels or tiles are easier to remove than a standard drywall ceiling, providing the benefit of easier access to electrical wires and plumbing pipes. Building codes vary per each city and county, but dropped ceilings usually must have a 7 1/2-foot height.
Electrical Installation
Turn off the power for the room where you are installing the track lighting, or turn off the breaker when preparing the electrical wiring for your track lighting system. Track lighting systems can be installed in two different ways, depending on the system's construction. You may have to join the electric wires with plastic connectors. Another method is to screw the electric wires to the track connector's terminals. Connect the bare or green wire to the other ground wires that are in your ceiling. Connect the ground wire with the grounding screws if the track lighting system contains a metal electrical box.
Attaching to Drop Ceiling
Attaching track lighting to your ceiling requires the use of an independent support clip. This support clip attaches to the support that the dropped ceiling relies on. A wire runs from the to the track lighting system to support the weight of the system. Your track lighting system will run for several dropped ceiling panels or tiles. You need an independent support clip for each panel or tile that the track lighting system runs the length of.
Build in a medicine cabinet or shelving for extra space
A bathroom is an ultra-functional space that is often neglected when it comes to decorating. In one weekend, a bathroom can be updated in a jiffy and on a shoestring budget, bringing new life to an otherwise cluttered and unimpressive area.
Paint
One of the most dramatic changes to the bathroom---or any room---is a new wall color. Before beginning on a bathroom, decide how you want to feel when you're in the room. Are you going for a spa look and feel? Consider going all white or pick soothing colors, such as pale green or gray. Do you want the bathroom to be a continuation of the bedroom or living room? Continue the colors from the surrounding room(s) onto the bathroom walls. If the main room has an accent wall, choose an accent wall for the bathroom, as well. Do you want a dramatic experience for a small powder room? Choose a theme, such as tropical, theater/film, retro or bohemian, keeping in mind while choosing the wall color(s) that although the bathroom does not have to match the exterior walls, it should still coordinate well with those walls.
If money is a factor that limits new cabinetry, consider painting existing cabinetry. A spa-like bathroom with fresh white paint on the cabinets and trim will look pristine. Paint a traditional or Victorian bathroom's vanity a rich espresso color to give a freestanding furniture feel to a built-in cabinet.
Add or Change Hardware
Many houses come standard with bathroom cabinetry that has no hardware. Installing new hardware is simple and inexpensive while giving an entirely new look to cabinets. Brushed chrome or bronze drawer pulls and knobs also provide added functionality and an updated look.
Don't forget about the towel bar(s) and toilet paper holder. Coordinate the finish with the knobs and drawer pulls for a cohesive look. If wall space is a premium, purchase an over-the-door towel hanger.
Hang a Medicine Cabinet
If the bathroom has a mirror glued to the wall, replace it with a medicine cabinet. The extra storage is a huge benefit for a small bathroom and a medicine cabinet typically gives more character to the room than a flat mirror. If you're handy, you can install a built-in cabinet; if not, hang one directly onto the wall.
Don't Slip
The bathroom floor is typically covered in tile, stone or linoleum. If the bathroom is currently carpeted, replace the carpet with a hard flooring. Linoleum squares come with adhesive backs and are easy to install. Tile and stone take two days to install but typically provide more return on your investment.
Choose a bath mat that finishes the look you are going for with your new bathroom. A fluffy bath mat looks great in a spa-inspired bathroom. A Persian rug finishes a Victorian or Mediterranean bathroom. An animal-shaped rug is a fun choice for a kid's bathroom. An abstract rug or one with circles or squares fits a modern bathroom.
Finish With Finishing Touches
Once the basics of the new bathroom are done, it's time to add some character. Hang a piece of art: Choose one photo or a combination of three or five pictures, or hang a shadow box for rotating images and keepsakes. Keep in mind that the humidity from the shower may eventually cause paper to curl, so don't place valuable photos or art in the bathroom. Since the counter top is now clear of clutter, one or two interesting containers can house cotton balls or cotton swabs.
Tags: medicine cabinet, accent wall, built-in cabinet, drawer pulls, wall color
A bathroom does not have to be a bare bones room of your house.
The bathroom is often one of the most neglected rooms in the house. Often with very little space and awkward design, bathrooms do not lend themselves to many fancy decorations. With a little ingenuity, however, a bathroom can be well-designed and a beautiful area of your home.
Instructions
1. Start with a clean slate. Remove all the clutter from your bathroom, including empty shampoo bottles, tiny bits of soap and unused items that no one in your family likes. Clean everything well so you can see exactly what you like and what you do not about your bathroom.
2. Choose a family friendly theme. Find matching shower curtains, floor rugs and toothbrush holders. Whether you decide on a kid-centered theme or a more natural bathroom theme is up to you and your family's tastes.
3. Find creative storage areas. Most bathrooms are notoriously small, making storage difficult. Arrange shelving and shower hooks so that everything you and your family needs is in easy reach. Do not be afraid to try something new, and make the most of every potential storage surface you have, including vertical areas.
4. Pull together your bathroom decor theme with special touches. A bouquet of flowers can brighten any bathroom, and bring a light and airy feel no matter what the theme. Choose plush towels in complementary colors so you feel welcome in your bathroom. Even if your family has a wide variety of tastes, connecting your bathroom theme with the rest of your house is a great way to make the decorations stand out.
5. Have fun decorating your bathroom. If you have unique items that would fit perfectly in , go ahead and give them a try. Special pictures and other wall hangings give bathrooms character and transform them from their typical utilitarian style. Let your personality shine through, and your bathroom will be a beautiful addition to .
Tags: your bathroom, your family, bathroom theme, items that, theme with, your home, your house
Not all chandeliers are fancy or come with an abundance of decorative crystals.
Ceiling lighting in a room brings both illumination and character to a space; although light fixtures address practical needs, for a light fixture to fit into a room completely, it must also match the motif in the room. Fortunately, many different types of ceiling lights exist on the market, making the job of finding the right light for your needs an easier process.
Lighting Types
Before you can understand how best to use lighting to enhance your decorating motif, you might want to understand the different types of lighting in general so that you know use them. According to an article on "Home Decorating Made Easy," four different types of lighting exist ---ambient lighting, tasking lighting, accent lighting and natural lighting. Each of these lighting types serves a different function. Ambient --- also known as general lighting --- gives light to the whole room. Task lighting is just like it sounds; it illuminates little chores like bill paying or hobby work in a small space. Accent lighting brings light to decorative elements like artwork and windows, doors and skylights and represents the sources of natural lighting found in your home. Likely your ceiling lighting choices will most often affect the ambient light in the room, so be mindful of that when placing the light so that you receive maximum coverage in the room.
Theme Chandeliers
The word "chandelier" often conjures up images of a piece of lighting that drapes from the ceiling, possesses 8 or 10 mini-lights and has crystals hanging from it. That's one type of chandelier, but it doesn't represent the only type. When choosing a chandelier for your ceiling lighting needs, think about how the chandelier will fit into your decorating theme. For example, if you've chosen a French country decorating style for your kitchen, be on the lookout for a red rooster chandelier. Roosters are a common decorative theme in French country decorating, and the types of rooster chandeliers are many. They range from chandeliers with roosters painted on the lamps to roosters formed from iron.
Art Deco
According to "Decorator's Secrets," Art Deco lights became trendy again in 2010, and the trend continues into 2011. Art Deco ceiling lights come in a number of styles like the lights that hug close to the ceiling as well as those that hang on chains. The Tiffany company put out many light fixtures during the Deco era, and many Tiffany and Tiffany-style ceiling lamps exist on the market even today. However, Tiffany wasn't the only company to put out Deco light fixtures. If you're looking for ceiling lights in an Art Deco style, the BBC website recommends that you look for light fixtures made from chrome and glass decorated in subtle colors like pale greens and blues as well as pink, beige and coffee colors.
Japanese Lanterns
Japanese paper lanterns add soft warmth to the overall lighting scheme in a room, according to Apartment Therapy. These bulbs come in a variety of colors and can be easily recognized by their soft paper exterior and numerous folds. When using lanterns as your ceiling lighting source, you may want to hang several lanterns up throughout the room because the light that comes from these light fixtures tends to be muted. You may also want to augment the light with task lighting sources like floor lamps in key areas of the room.
Tags: light fixtures, ceiling lights, different types, your ceiling, your ceiling lighting, ceiling lighting, country decorating
Recessed lights provide both task and ambient light.
Successful bathroom lighting allows bathrooms to be practical, fully functional rooms as well as relaxing and pampering spaces. Having a quick shower, applying makeup and relaxing in the tub all require different types and levels of lighting. While some of this is provided by natural light through the window, light fittings that produce ambient, task and accent lighting are also necessary.
Ambient
Ambient lighting provides the overall lighting in the bathroom and comes from all directions. These are the lights that you switch on when you enter the room to see and walk about safely. A common source of ambient light is a central light fitting on the ceiling or on the wall. In bathrooms, sealed light fittings protect the components from moisture. For bathrooms with high ceilings, a chandelier adds decor interest as well as sufficient light for most bathrooms tasks. Incorporating a dimmer switch allows the bathroom user to control the level of light, perhaps lowering it when having a relaxing bath. Large windows bring natural ambient light into the bathroom.
Task
Task lighting is focused on one area in which people need a strong, localized and direct light. In a bathroom, this is usually the vanity and mirror. Task lights should illuminate the mirror without casting shadows. Many bathrooms a have a strip of lights above the mirror and sometimes down its sides, allowing enough light for several people to use the mirror at once. Another option for lighting for tasks such as shaving and applying makeup is a pull-out magnifying mirror with a surrounding light incorporated in the unit. For small bathroom mirrors, wall-mounted or pendant lights hung at each side provide sufficient light.
Accent
Accent lighting provides a low level of light that may highlight particular features in the bathroom, such as tile work or decorative art. Accent light also creates drama and atmosphere in the bathroom, as well as gently illuminating dark corners. Table lamps and wall sconces provide accent lighting, as do candles, temporarily.
Light Fittings
Two or three light fittings can provide all three types of bathroom lighting. A dimmer switch on the vanity task lighting reduces the lighting level to that of ambient light. Semi-opaque drapes across the window with soften the natural light entering. The quality and color of light varies with the type of light bulbs used. Incandescent bulbs produce a steady warm glow and last up to 1,000 hours. For ambient or accent lighting, incandescent bulbs in soft white or pale pink slightly enhance the warmth of the color in the bathroom. Halogen lights produce a white light that is a close approximation to daylight. These are best used in task lighting for shaving or that will be seen outside in daylight. Fluorescent lightbulbs are energy efficient and provide a yellow-toned light. These bulbs are rarely used in home bathrooms.
You can put a ceiling light in the center of a joist to center the room. This will center everything out properly. Installing a ceiling light can be a simple process if you know what you are doing. However, if you do not know anything about electricity and are afraid to work with it, call an electrician as it can be dangerous work.
Instructions
1. Use the stud finder to find the studs in the ceiling where you are going to put the ceiling light. Use the wood bit and the drill to drill a hole in between the joist where you are putting the ceiling light. Use the tape measure to measure from one joist to the next and mark the measurements with a pencil. Measure six to eight inches vertically from the hole you drilled with the drill and wood bit. Square it up with the square and cut with the jigsaw.
2. Drill a hole by the breaker box and wherever you want to put the household wall switch. Measure from hole to hole. Measure the 110 wire and give yourself two to four inches of room to work with on both sides. Cut the wire with the wire cutters.
3. Put in the switch box. Cut and clean the wires going to the household wall switch. The black wire goes on the right side, and the white and copper wires go on the left side of the household wall switch.
4. Measure the hole you cut where you are putting the new ceiling light. Measure the 2x4's and cut them to fit snug in between the joists. Using the Phillips screws and the Phillips screw bit, attach the 2x4s to the joists. Measure and cut the scrap drywall with the carpenter's knife. Cover up the 2x4s that you just installed. Install the new light bracket with the screws that came with the bracket and the Phillips screwdriver.
5. Measure from the household wall switch to where you are putting the new ceiling light. Measure the 110 wire, leaving two to four inches of room to work with on each end. Cut and clean the wires for the household light switch. The black wire goes on the right side and the white wire and copper wire go on the left side of the household wall switch.
6. Cut and clean the wires for the new ceiling light. The black wire goes on the black wire, the white wire goes on the white wire, and the copper wire goes on the ground screw. Put the wire nuts on and tighten them by turning them clockwise. Put the black tape on the wire nuts and cover them completely with it. Attach the ceiling light to the ceiling and tighten it down with the screws that came with the light and the Phillips screwdriver.
7. Use the drywall tape to tape the seams where you just put the scrap piece of drywall. Use the trowel and the joint compound to cover the drywall tape in thin coats. Let it dry for at least two to four hours. Sand and mud with the joint compound two more times.
8. Cut and clean the wires at the breaker box. Put the black wire on the breaker and the white wire and the copper wires on the breaker bars. Tighten everything down with a flat screwdriver. Make sure the breaker is turned off and put it in the breaker box. Turn the breaker on.
Install a Ceiling Light Fixture With Transparent Coated Wiring
Ceiling light fixtures that hang from a chain or rod commonly use lamp wire. Lamp wire is manufactured to match the color of your light fixture or to be unobtrusive. Transparent coated wiring is commonly used with silver, white or chrome ceiling light fixtures and it can be hard to determine which wire is hot and which is neutral. Knowing install a ceiling light fixture with transparent coated wiring requires a little feeling.
Instructions
1. Turn off the electricity to the circuit that you will install your ceiling light fixture onto by turning off the breaker in the main electrical panel.
2. Assemble your ceiling light fixture according to the manufacturer's instructions. Locate your mounting hardware that came with your ceiling light fixture. The mounting hardware should include a fixture crossbar, a nipple, canopy, screw collar loop and nut and the chain or rod.
3. Attach the fixture crossbar to the ceiling junction box. The fixture crossbar consists of a flat piece of metal approximately 4 inches long by 1 inch wide with a round center hole and several other openings. The openings on the fixture crossbar depend on the manufacturer of your ceiling light. The crossbar will attach to the ceiling junction box with screws provided in the ceiling light kit.
4. Screw the nipple to the fixture crossbar. The nipple is a hollow metal tube that is threaded along the entire length of its exterior and screws into the center hole of the fixture crossbar.
5. Attach the chain to your ceiling light. A majority of ceiling lights will attach to the ceiling with a chain. However, your light may consist of a series of hollow rods. Whichever you might have, the principle of attaching the chain or rods will be the same. Using pliers and a soft cloth--to prevent damage to the finish of the ceiling light--attach the end loop of the rod or chain to the ceiling light and squeeze the loop to close it and secure it to the fixture.
6. Attach the opposite end of the chain or rod to the screw collar loop. The screw collar loop is a doughnut-shaped piece of metal with threads on the interior and exterior. The loop portion is connected to the screw collar at a 90-degree angle. Connect your chain or rod to the loop in the same manner you connected to the fixture in Step 5.
7. Thread the transparent coated wiring through the chain or rod and through the interior threaded opening of the screw collar loop.
8. Screw the nut onto the screw collar loop. The nut will hold the canopy in place after the light is attached to the ceiling. Thread the canopy onto the screw collar loop. The canopy will cover the ceiling junction box and all the wiring once the light fixture is installed. At this point, the parts should be in the following order: light, chain, screw collar with nut attached and canopy with transparent coated wiring threaded through all.
9. Wire the ceiling light fixture to the power supply wires in the ceiling junction box. The power supply wires consist of a black (hot) wire and a white (neutral) wire. Thread the transparent coated wire through the nipple you installed in Step 4. Feel the transparent coated wire. One side of the wire will be smooth and considered the neutral wire. Connect this smooth wire to the white power supply wire in the junction box by twisting an orange wire nut onto the two wires connecting them together. The other side of the transparent coated wire will have ribs running the entire length of the wire. This is the hot wire. Connect this ribbed wire to the black power supply wire in the same manner you connected the white wires.
10. Install the ceiling light fixture to the ceiling junction box. Push the excess wiring into the ceiling junction box and attach the screw collar loop to the nipple by screwing it onto the nipple clockwise. Slide the canopy up and over the ceiling junction box and tighten the nut attached to the screw collar loop to hold the canopy in place.
11. Turn on the electricity to the circuit by turning on the breaker in the main electrical panel.
An Epson front projector mounted on the ceiling is minimally intrusive and ready to use any time. All you need to do is adjust the projector's settings.
Instructions
1. Stand the Epson front projector on a table facing the projection screen. Turn the Epson on with its remote. Press "Menu." Select the "System Setup" menu. Choose "Ceiling" from the list of choices under "Orientation." Press "Menu" again to exit the settings menu. Turn the projector off and let it cool down for at least 2 hours before proceeding.
2. Turn the projector over. Place the ceiling mounting plate against the screw holes on the bottom of the Epson. Screw the screws through the plate into the projector with the Phillips screwdriver. Have a professional home theater installer who is certified to work with electrical wiring mount a ceiling projector mount and run a HDMI cable from the video source.
3. Place a ladder under the front projector mount on the ceiling. Loosen the screws on the front projection ceiling mount with your fingers. Slide the mounting plate attached to the Epson into the slots on the ceiling mount. Tighten the screws on the ceiling mount with your fingers. Tighten the screws until they will not turn at all using the jaws of a pliers.
4. Attach the video cable coming out from a hole next to the ceiling mount into the appropriate connection on the Epson; for example, an HDMI cable inserted into the Epson's HDMI connection. Turn the Epson front projector on with the remote. Press the "Source" button on the remote until you see text for the type of video cable connected to the Epson -- such as "HDMI."
5. Rotate the knurled zoom ring surrounding the lens to alter the dimensions of the image so it fits inside of the projection screen. Rotate the focus ring in front of the zoom ring to focus the image -- use the "Zoom" and "Focus" buttons on the remote if there are motorized zoom and focus features.
6. Press the "Pattern" button on the remote to bring up a chart. Rotate the horizontal ring on the Epson left and right to move the image so that the left and right sides fit inside of the projection screen. Rotate the vertical ring on the Epson towards and away from you to move the image so that the top and bottom fits inside of the projection screen. Use the "Lateral" and "Vertical" buttons on the remote if there is motorized lateral and vertical orientation.
7. Press the power button on the remote to return the Epson front projector to standby mode until it's ready to be used.
Tags: front projector, Epson front, Epson front projector, projection screen, button remote, ceiling mount
One way to extend the life of a lamp's on and off switch, is to turn the lamp on and plug it into an electrical outlet that is connected to a wall switch. That way the switch will rarely need to be used. But if you must turn the lamp on and off by its switch, and it is frequently used, chances are it will eventually need to be replaced. If the switch is located in the light bulb socket, you will first need to remove the old switch to see what the part looks like, so it can be purchased.
Instructions
1. Unplug the power cord from the wall receptacle and remove the .
2. Remove the socket assembly from the lamp. It is usually screwed onto a threaded nipple. Use your hand to unscrew this part.
3. Take the socket assembly housing apart. The top which covers the light bulb socket, should pull away from the base exposing the switch.
4. Remove the switch by loosening the two screws holding the power cord wire in place.
5. Place a new switch attaching the power cord wires. If necessary, take the switch you've removed to the hardware store and purchase a comparable part.
6. Reassemble the socket switch assembly, which you took apart during the first steps. Attach the assembly to the lamp and replace the light bulb.
To update the look of your home, install faux ceiling beams. Real ceiling beams are part of the structural framing of a house that shows through the ceiling. Faux beams, however, do not provide any structural support and so can be made of wood boxes, Styrofoam, polyurethane or composite materials. The lighter weight of faux beams makes it easier for you to install them overhead, and you can paint them to resemble any effect desired, such as rough-hewn wood or finished, painted beams. Follow these easy instructions recommended by FauxWoodBeams.com to add interest to any room in your house.
Instructions
1. Measure the length of the ceiling where you want the beams to be and multiply by the number of beams you will install. This will give you the total length of beam material you need. Add 10 percent extra so you will have enough in case of mistakes.
2. Mark the outline on the ceiling where the beams will be. Use painters' tape to outline the installation plan on the ceiling. Detect and mark the studs within this outline.
3. Buy faux beam materials or make your own. Many outlets online and in your local area carry them. Buy pre-made, extruded Styrofoam or resin beams or get wooden planks and construct your own. To make your own, start with a wide board, such as a 2-by-6-inch plank. This will be the side of the faux beam that faces the floor. Screw two boards of equal width to each side of the plank for the sides of the beam, forming a three-sided, long box. If the beams will butt against the wall, it is not necessary to build ends on them. If they will show, however, you must build in end pieces.
4. Make wooden mounting blocks for the beams. Measure the inside width and height of the faux beam material and cut blocks of a 2-inch depth with this width and height. Make one mounting block for every stud you marked on the ceiling within the painters' tape.
5. Mount one block on each stud you marked on the ceiling. You must position the blocks in a straight line or you cannot mount the beams properly.
6. Place the beams over the mounting blocks to make sure they fit correctly. If they do, apply PL Premium Construction Adhesive or Liquid Nails on the edges of the beam that will touch the ceiling. Place the glued beam over the wooden blocks and seal tightly against the ceiling.
7. Drive screws through the beam sides into each of the mounting blocks and countersink them slightly to hold the beams until the adhesive dries. Remove excess glue with a damp cloth.
8. Fill the screw holes with wood filler to match the beam finish and you are done.
Painting a plaster ceiling, whether several decades old or newly installed, requires several steps. The texture of the ceilings can vary from smooth to rough. Ceilings should always be painted before any other surface is painted in the room, including walls and trim.
Instructions
Paint a Plaster Ceiling
1. Repair any cracks to the ceiling prior to painting. Remove all dust and cobwebs using a vacuum cleaner and damp rags. Fill any holes or gaps with caulking.
2. Remove all furniture from the room if possible. Cover all remaining areas in the room, including window treatments and flooring, with drop cloths as plastic sheets.
3. Choose a high quality latex paint. Look for a 100 percent acrylic paint. Not all acrylic paints are full acrylic, and some can contain additional additives and chemicals that may not adhere to a plaster ceiling. To be considered 100 percent acrylic, the can's label must specifically have that printed on it. Brands such as Home Depot's Behr and Lowe's Valspar are full acrylic paints.
4. Tape off edges using painter's tape (often colored blue). Burnish the edges and make sure there are no gaps into which paint can seep. Wood trim and light fixtures may also need to be taped off.
5. Prime the ceiling using an alkaline-resistant primer. The primer will allow the latex paint to adhere to the plaster ceiling. The primer prevents alkaline in the plaster from seeping through to the layer of paint. If not sealed properly, the paint can peel as well as fade. Priming and painting will follow the same techniques.
6. Cut into the perimeter of the ceiling and work around the edges. Dip an angled brush slightly into paint. Glide the brush along the edge of the ceiling, using the tip of the brush to make a straight line. The brush will fan out, allowing the tip to form a straight line. This technique is referred to by painters as "cutting in." Leave a 3- to 4-inch-wide band of paint. Use a 3-inch synthetic bristle brush that has an angle and is made for trim work. If the plaster is heavily textured, it may be necessary to pounce in with a second brush to get all the grooves and nooks of the plaster painted. A second or even third coat may be necessary depending on the color.
7. Roll the paint in sections. Use a roller with the appropriate nap. If the plaster has a very rough texture, a 3/4-inch nap roller is recommended. For smooth plaster walls use a 1/2-inch nap roller. Attach the roller to a painting pole for additional ease and control over the paint area. Roll in long strokes, applying even pressure. Apply a second coat if necessary.
8. Remember to take breaks. Painting plaster ceilings can cause additional strain to neck and back muscles.
9. Remove all tape. Pull the tape off slowly. If there is resistance, use a razor knife to lightly cut the tape off. Cautiously remove all drop cloths and plastic---paint can easily drip from plaster ceilings and remain wet on the protective sheets.
Tags: acrylic paints, adhere plaster, , ceiling using, coat necessary, drop cloths, full acrylic
Hanging a chandelier can add ambiance to a dining room.
Decorative lighting is has two purposes: it should be visually appealing and give proper illumination. Hanging chandeliers must look good, light well and be hung at the proper height as to not get it the way. The location of the chandelier will determine the best height.
Normal Ceiling Height
Most dining rooms have a ceiling that is 8 feet high. Chandeliers hung over a dining table should be hung so that the bottom of the piece is at least 30 to 36 inches above the top of the table.
High Ceilings
In a room with ceilings higher than 8 feet, a chandelier may have to be hung higher than the normal minimal height of 30 to 36 inches to balance the visual effect. Just shorten the chain by 3 inches, or choose a double-tiered chandelier for high ceilings.
Special Considerations
Many dining room tables also serve as work areas, homework areas and even as temporary home offices. Adjustments may have to be made to the height of the chandelier to accommodate the illumination needs of the family and the type of the lamp and opacity of the shade.
You can beautify the rooms in your home and add value to it by installing paneling or beadboard on your walls. Finishing your walls with paneling and molding adds a special look and dimension to a room that paint or wallpaper cannot. Installation of paneling and molding is a project you can complete in a weekend if you are capable of handling basic carpentry jobs.
Instructions
1. Measure and mark locations on the paneling for all electrical outlets and switches. Use a drywall square to mark the locations, and cut a hole for each outlet and switch in the paneling with a jig saw.
2. Stain or paint the pieces of paneling, cover molding and baseboard trim before installing them. Place them on a sawhorse and roll or paint on a stain/polyurethane combination. Let the stain dry for 2 days before installing the paneling.
3. Draw a level line with a pencil and straight edge to mark the location of the top of the paneling around the room. Leave enough room at the top for the molding. Use a leveling tool to make sure that the line is level. Locate the wall studs with a stud finder, and mark them with a pencil at the top of the wall.
4. Install the paneling, starting at a corner of the room. Apply a bead of paneling adhesive over the back of the paneling in a zigzag pattern, and adhere the paneling to the wall. Once you have the paneling in place, hammer paneling nails through the paneling into the studs behind the wall.
5. Install the remaining paneling, cutting the final pieces to fit them as you reach corners using a circular saw. When cutting the paneling, cut from the back side of the board.
6. Install the top trim for the paneling by hammering paneling nails into the molding after you place it at the top edge of the boards.
7. Lay the trim molding over the bottom of the paneling to make the baseboard. Hammer it in place with paneling nails.
8. Attach cove molding and L-shaped outside corner molding to the edges and corners of the paneling using paneling nails.
Tags: paneling nails, before installing, installing paneling, mark locations, paneling molding
Remove tongue and groove paneling by pulling out the nails.
Like hardwood flooring, tongue and groove paneling is held in place by concealed nails. When a change in room decor calls for its removal, the process is no more complicated than methodically pulling the nails out. The fact that you can't see them shouldn't be a deterrent, because as you remove each board, the nails holding the next one will become visible. Exercising care while you work will allow you to preserve the paneling and if it's in relatively good shape, you may find another use for it.
Instructions
1. Pry off the trim from the corners of the wall with a pry bar. Start at the top or bottom of each piece, near a nail, and work a pry bar underneath one edge. Pull up on the trim until the nail pops loose, then pull the nail out with a claw hammer. Work your way along the trim until you have removed all the nails, then remove the trim.
2. Remove the baseboard trim in the same way, then remove the trim at the top of the wall.
3. Slip the pry bar under the board nearest the corner, as close to one of the nails that have been exposed by removal of the trim as you can, starting at an outside corner and at the top or bottom of the wall. Pry the board up until the nail pops loose, then pull out the nail with the hammer. Remove all the nails in this way, then pull out the board.
4. Use a second claw hammer instead of a pry bar if the board is so tightly nailed that you can't work a pry bar underneath. Place the claw between the back of the board and the wall, then tap it with the other hammer to work the claw underneath. The force of the tapping will probably loosen the head of the nail, but if not, pry it up when you have inserted enough of the claw.
5. Remove the remaining boards in succession in this way until all the paneling has been removed. As you remove each board, tap out any nails that are still in the wood so you can stack the boards for future use or resale.
Tags: then pull, board nails, claw hammer, each board, , groove paneling,
The serape is a type of wool shawl worn in Mexico, usually by men, and generally features brightly colored lines in varying widths with white fringe on the ends. The largest stripe is usually a color that is repeated throughout the design, along with other colors to complement the primary hue. The primary color is often a darker color, with bright yellow, orange, red, blue, purple and green as additional colors. Serape designs may be re-created on the ceiling of a room in your home, such as in a child's playroom or den, or on the ceilings of commercial buildings, such as hotels and spas.
Instructions
1. Measure the ceiling space you will be painting so that you can make a sketch to scale. Use colored pencils to try different looks on paper before you begin painting. Decide on the colors you will use as well as the width of each line you will paint. The design can cover the entire ceiling or one portion only depending on preference. If you choose to make a smaller design, do so around a central light fixture or other ceiling focal point.
2. Clear your ceiling of cobwebs, dust and debris with damp paper towels or clean, damp rags. Use a ladder large enough to enable you to reach the ceiling easily without losing your balance or falling. The ladder should also feature a work platform, or a small flat appendage that juts out from the ladder where you can place paint trays and tools.
3. Use painter's tape to mark on the ceiling where each colored stripe will go and how thick the be. Apply the tape once your ceiling is completely dry from being wiped down, as applying the tape to a surface that is not smooth and dry can cause paint to pool under the tape and create uneven edges. Use only a few feet of tape at a time during application to avoid stretching it, and press it to the ceiling surface with either your fingers or an old putty knife. Use a pencil to write the planned color within the marked spaces for easy identification.
4. Clear the room of furniture and put down old sheets, newspaper, tarp or dropcloths over the entire floor. Remove pictures and other wall decor and use painter's tape around the ceiling edges to avoid having paint bleed onto the walls.
5. Pour the first paint color in a paint tray and place it on your ladder's work platform. Dip a roller or paintbrush into the paint tray and paint each stripe on the ceiling that has been designated for that color. Move the ladder as needed until all lines of the color have been completely filled in.
6. Move to the next color in your plan and begin painting the designated stripes. As you move through the various colors, you must take down the painter's tape separating the stripes and reapply it over a previously painted area so the edges will meet. Do not apply the tape to wet paint. Repeat with each desired color to fill in all of the stripes.
7. Apply a second coat of each paint color, if needed. Allow the first coat of paint to dry at least 30 minutes before applying the second coat.
8. Remove the painter's tape by pulling it back over itself. Removing the tape too quickly can cause the tape to tear, while removing it too slowly can result in adhesive sticking to the ceiling. Wait until the paint is dry to the touch to remove the tape to avoid creating smudge lines. If you wait until the paint dries fully before removing the tape, you may have to use a razor blade to slice the tape free.
9. Fill in any little blank spaces from the painter's tape with the appropriate paint colors. Use a small brush to take care of these and any other minor touch-ups, especially around the edge of the ceiling.
Tags: painter tape, begin painting, paint color, paint tray, second coat, stripe will, until paint
Installing a can light is a finished ceiling can be done to add additional lighting or to replace an existing light fixture. Finished ceilings are typically covered with drywall that will need to be cut to the size that is needed for the new can light. Installing a can light in a finished ceiling will require cutting holes for the fixtures and running wires. You can install a can light in a finished ceiling by first determining where the light will be located.
Instructions
1. Disconnect the power to the room you are working in by turning of the circuit at the circuit box.
2. Locate the area where you want to install the can light. Your can use the location of an existing light fixture or it can be in a new location altogether.
3. Remove the existing light from the ceiling and disconnect the electrical wires.
4. Draw an outline for the can light if the fixture is bigger than the existing hole. A template should have been included with the can light. Place the template on the ceiling and trace around it with a pencil.
5. Cut out the hole using a drywall saw. If there is no existing fixture you will need to drill a small hole near the edge of the outline to insert the drywall saw. Cut around the outline and then remove the piece of drywall.
6. Prepare the electrical wiring for the electrical box used with the light fixture. If there is no existing wiring you will need to fish it through the ceiling or run it down from the attic.
7. Trim about an inch of the insulation for each wire using a pair of wire cutters. You may need to cut of the ends of the existing wires to start with a fresh end.
8. Connect each of the wires together inside the electrical box. Twist each wire together and then place a wire cover over the top. Make sure you are twisting the same color wires together. The black wire is the hot wire, the white wire is the neutral wire and the green wire is the ground wire.
9. Insert the electrical box and can light into the hole and make sure it is secure.
10. Push in the clips that are located inside the fixture to lock it to the ceiling.
11. Insert a bulb into the fixture and then turn on the power to see if the light works correctly.
Tags: light fixture, existing light, finished ceiling, light finished ceiling, will need, each wire, existing light fixture
A well-treated wood ceiling can add a charming, natural, rustic, or even contemporary touch to your home interior. Treat your wood ceiling with a simple wood preservative for a natural look, or paint or stain your wood ceiling to match or complement your decor. However you decide to treat your wood ceiling, make sure to choose a paint, stain, or wood preservative product that contains a chemical additive to prevent the growth of mold.
Instructions
1. Purchase a high quality paint, wood stain, or wood preservative product for in a color of your choice. For best results, choose a paint, stain, or preservative that contains an additive to retard the growth of mold. Purchase a wood priming product as well if you will be painting, rather than staining, your wood ceiling.
2. Stand on a ladder and sand your entire wood ceiling with an electric or manual hand sander. Wear safety goggles and a respirator or paper face mask to avoid breathing in falling wood dust while sanding your wood ceiling.
3. Sweep up the fallen wood dust with a high quality, fine-bristled nylon broom. Clean up the wood dust immediately after sanding if you have a hardwood floor, because the wood dust can act as an abrasive on the floor's finish.
4. Lay cotton or plastic dropcloths on your floor to protect it from accidental drips of paint or wood stain.
5. Pour your primer, paint, stain or preservative product into a paint tray. Use a long-handled paint roller to apply the primer, paint, stain, or preservative to your ceiling, using broad, even strokes. Apply one coat of primer to your wood ceiling if you are finishing it with paint rather than stain. Apply two coats of paint, stain, or preservative, allowing the ceiling to dry completely between coats.
Tags: your wood ceiling, your wood, paint stain, wood ceiling, wood ceiling
Replacing a modern pedestal sink with an antique washstand vanity helps blend old with new.
If you love country-style decorating, have a home full of antiques or own an old farmhouse, modern bathroom fixtures may stick out like a sore thumb. One easy solution for blending your bathroom with the rest of your home is to retrofit an antique washstand with modern plumbing fixtures. These instructions assume your sink area has an existing water supply and drainage installed.
Instructions
1. Measure the width and depth of the space where the sink will be installed to make sure your vanity will fit.
2. Remove the drawers and set aside. Most vanities have one or two drawers over a single or pair of doors.
3. Check to see it the water supply and drain pipes come from the floor or the wall. If they come from the floor, an opening will need to be cut into the bottom of the washstand. If they come from the wall, the opening will need to be cut into the back of the washstand to accommodate the pipes. If the washstand's height is too short, a hole may need to be cut into the back and the bottom to accommodate the pipes. A simple square opening is the easiest.
4. Turn your attention to the drawers. The drawer bottoms must be removed and the drawers made stationary to accommodate the plumbing.
5. Remove the drawer bottoms. Sometimes this can be done by sliding the bottom out. If not, use the drill to cut a pilot hole in the bottom of the drawer. Then use the jigsaw to saw around the perimeter of the drawer bottom. Do not cut into the walls of the drawer. You may want to sand the cut edges with sandpaper.
6. Slide the drawers back into the washstand. Turn the stand on its back. From the door opening(s), use wood screws to permanently attach the drawer(s) to the back of the stand. Two or three screws in the back wall of the drawer should be ample to hold the drawer. You may want to add screws to the sides, but be careful to choose screws shorter than the combined width of the drawer and the wall of the washstand.
7. Cut the hole in the top of the washstand for the sink bowl. Use the cutting template that came with the sink bowl to mark the intended opening. It is always better to err by cutting the opening too small, and then enlarge it as needed.
8. Cover the washstand with a coating of polyurethane to protect the finish from water damage. You may want to put more than one coat on the top, as it will be exposed most to water.
Tags: come from, , accommodate pipes, come from floor, drawer bottoms, drawer want, from floor
Expansive rooms with high ceilings can feel cold and uninviting. Transforming a large, high-ceiling room into a cozy and friendly space is accomplished by implementing a few interior design principles. Darker colors tend to made a room feel small and cozy, while lighter colors create an airy, spacious feel. Painting a high ceiling a darker color than the walls creates the illusion of a lower ceiling and smaller room. A room's lighting, furniture and accessories can also contribute in making a large room feel smaller.
Instructions
1. Remove light switch and outlet covers with a screwdriver. Then take down all wall hangings and pictures.
2. Cover furniture and floors with plastic drop cloths.
3. Patch wall imperfections, such as nail holes and cracks, with a spackling paste and sand lightly after allowing spackling to dry thoroughly. Wipe repaired areas with a damp towel.
4. Apply painter's tape around ceiling light fixtures, baseboards and other areas you don't want painted.
5. Put on plastic gloves and open the paint primer can with the can opener. Mix the primer using a wooden stir stick. After mixing, pour some primer into a paint tray. Dip a paint roller into the loaded primer tray and begin rolling primer over the entire ceiling. Attach an extension pole to the roller if necessary. Use paintbrushes for hard-to-reach areas. Continue rolling primer onto the walls and use paintbrushes for corners and other crevices. Allow the paint primer to dry completely before proceeding to Step 6.
6. Open the ceiling paint can with the can opener. The ceiling paint color is at least one or two shades darker than your wall paint. Stir the paint with the paint stick and pour some paint into one of the clean paint trays. Dip a paint roller into the loaded paint tray and begin rolling paint over the . Use paintbrushes for hard-to-reach areas.
7. Paint the walls in the same way as the ceiling.
8. Remove and dispose of plastic drop cloths and painter's tape after paint is completely dry. Affix outlet and switch plate covers.
9. Install decorative curtain rods and hang floor-length, fabric draperies to bare windows, adding warmth and texture to the room, giving the room a smaller appearance.
10. Arrange furniture into two separate conversation areas, making the room feel smaller and more intimate. Place an area rug in each of the two conversation areas, anchoring each space.
11. Position three-way lamps on end tables to provide task lighting for reading and warm, mood lighting to "cozy-up" the room.
12. Hang a large piece of framed art on a bare wall, visually shrinking the walls and size of the room.
13. Place a soft throw and toss pillows on a sofa and position two or three pots of greenery around the room, creating a friendlier, cozier feel.
Tags: room feel, begin rolling, ceiling paint, colors tend, conversation areas, drop cloths, entire ceiling