With some time and patience, you can transform your wood paneling so it looks like drywall.
At one time, wood paneling was the norm in home construction. At least the den would receive a treatment of this dark wood with vertical seams. If your home still has some old wood paneling that sticks out like a sore thumb, you can make the paneling look like drywall by following a simple technique.
Instructions
1. Fill in all of the seams of the paneling with spackling compound using the putty knife. Fill in the seams of the paneling until the spackle is slightly mounded at each of the seams. Let it dry according to manufacturer's directions.
2. Sand the spackling compound with fine grit sandpaper. Sand it so that the hardened spackling compound is even with the rest of the paneling. The spackling compound will cover the seam and make the paneling look whole and more like drywall. You may need to repeat Step 1 and Step 2 to fix any imperfections.
3. Pour the primer into the paint pan. Use a high-quality stain killing primer to cover the wood paneling. Using the paint roller, start painting the wall just like you would paint any wall. As you are painting, look to make sure that the seams are not showing through the paint. If so, the seams will either have to be filled in more with spackling compound or sanded more to be even with the wood paneling.
4. Repeat the priming process with high-quality interior latex paint to make the wall look like drywall. You will probably need to do two coats for best coverage.
Tags: spackling compound, wood paneling, even with, Fill seams, Fill seams paneling, like drywall
Enhance the look of a bathroom with decorative towels and other accessories.
Prior to choosing bathroom accessories, decide on a decor theme. The style will set the tone for the color palette and materials used. Another option is to pick a bathroom color scheme, such as a white and blue or lavender and green duo. Choose bathroom accessories that enhance the style or colors to create a cohesive look. If you are redecorating a bathroom on a budget, buy colorful towels or a patterned shower curtain to instantly update the look of the space.
Instructions
1. Choose a shower curtain according to the bathroom's decor theme. Pick a white eyelet curtain for a vintage or romantic-inspired bathroom, a vibrantly colored frog-patterned curtain for a rainforest theme, or a white and pink toile curtain to create a shabby chic style. Hang the shower curtain from decorative hooks, such as red rose or lily-pad-shaped versions.
2. Pick towels that coordinate with the bathroom color scheme. Enhance a nature-themed bathroom with grass green, coral orange or sunny yellow towels. Choose mauve pink and chocolate brown towels for a romantic or shabby chic style space. Hang the towels on wall racks or roll them and display them on wall shelves.
3. Enhance tile or wood floors with rugs. Choose a red heart-shaped or plush white rug for a bathroom with a romantic, glamorous flair. Pick a woven bamboo or green shag rug reminiscent of grass for a rainforest-themed space.
4. Decide on decorative and convenient bathroom accessories. Go for an opulent look with shiny gold accessories, such as a wastebasket and lotion and hand soap dispensers. Choose a lily-pad-shaped soap dish and frog-patterned toothbrush holder and sink cup set to create a rainforest theme.
5. Complete the bathroom design with decor pieces. Display a vintage vase filled with fresh flowers on a vanity table. Hang black and white family photos in antique gold frames. Fill a woven rattan vase with bird of paradise flowers for a tropical forest look.
Ugly pipes plague kitchens, bathrooms and any room that uses water lines. When construction work is done on the room or a leak is detected, the builder might remove part of the wall, which leaves the pipes on display. No matter why your pipes are out and about, you need ways to hide them. Hiding exposed pipes gives you room a more decorative feel.
Shadow Box Design
A shadow box design pairs nicely with exposed pipes because it gives the eye other things to focus on. The trick is to use a variety of shadow boxes and arrange those boxes around the pipes. Place the boxes on either side of the pipes and on the top and bottom of horizontal pipes. Try placing the boxes as close to the pipes as possible. The small amount of pipe that remains visible will blend into the surrounding boxes and become part of the design. Use the boxes to display small knickknacks and decorative items.
Paint the Pipes
For PVC or plastic pipes, a fresh coat of paint is all you need to hide the pipes. Paint over the pipes with a paintbrush, using the brush to reach the spaces beneath or behind the pipes. Go over the walls with a paint roller. For a more decorative look, try painting the wall and pipe in two different colors. Use a brighter color on the walls and paint the pipes in a neutral color, like tan or cream. The pipes will almost seem like a piece of artwork in the room.
Build Around It
Hide the pipes by building small cabinets around each pipe. Create small frames around the pipes, using pieces of wood that run the length and width of the pipes. Attach more wood to the frames, creating hinged lids that open and close. If the pipes leak or you have another problem, then you can still easily reach the pipes. Stain or paint the cabinets to match the rest of the room.
Cover up the Pipes
For wall pipes in a kitchen or bathroom, hide the pipes with cabinets. Look for mass-produced cabinets that have cardboard or thin wood backings. Remove the backing and place the cabinet against the wall, hiding the pipes inside each one. Use the inside of the cabinets to store cleaning supplies, health and beauty items, pots, kitchen tools and anything else you have on hand.
Tags: around pipes, close pipes, exposed pipes, more decorative,
Most wooden molding is installed against a flat wall or backing. However, there are some types of molding that get placed at the inside corner of a room, where the piece of wood will be put in place resting against two surfaces that come together at a 90-degree angle. Cove molding is of this type; you will frequently find it stretched around the perimeter of a room where the ceiling joins the wall. Cutting cove molding is a little bit different from cutting most other types of molding, but it is not a difficult task.
Instructions
1. Measure your room and buy some long pieces of cove molding that stretch from one corner to the other.
2. Cut the molding for a splice between two pieces that meet in the center section of a wall. This is the simplest cut to make; all you need to do is to set the saw at 45 degrees and then push the cove molding into a flush position against the back wall of the miter box. The cut is then made with the wood pushed tight against the back part of the saw. Don't forget to change the angle or reverse the next piece of molding so the back shows instead of the front when you make the second cut for the splice. That way each piece will fit into the splice with the two angles pointed in complementary directions.
3. Cut the corner angles for a 45-degree miter joint on a inside corner joint. For inside corners, push the miter saw towards your left until it is an the 45-degree mark. Bring the molding in from the left and set just enough of the wood underneath the saw so you can make a completed 45-degree angle cut and lop off just a few inches on the right side of piece of molding. Hold the molding tight in place while you do this. This piece will be the left-hand piece for the inside corner.
4. Set the saw up just the opposite for the other piece. First, turn the blade all the way to the right until you reach the 45-degree mark. Then, bring the molding in from the right, making sure you hold the cove molding against the miter box in the same manner. Now, lop off the end with the saw. You now have the angle that you need for the right-hand section of an inside corner.
5. Cut the corner angles for a 45-degree miter joint on a outside corner joint. This becomes slightly more difficult because the miter saw does reflect the actual angle, but in effect, each cut is an exact mirror opposite of the cut you actually want to make. For outside corners, push the miter saw towards your right until it is an the 45-degree mark. Now bring the molding in from the left and set just enough of the wood underneath the saw so you can make a completed 45-degree angle cut and lop off just a few inches on the right side of piece of molding. This piece will be your right-hand piece for the inside corner. Be certain the wood is not held flat against the back of the miter box but that it is placed in a manner where it evenly straddles the horizontal and vertical surfaces of the miter box. When the narrow top edge is level, you can go ahead and make your cut. Keep the piece of wood in the same position for the entire cut.
6. Cut the second piece for the outside corner. This will be the left-hand piece for the outside corner. Start by turning the saw all the way to the left until it reaches the 45-degree mark. Then bring the molding in from the left and place it so it goes just a little ways past the blade. Hold the wood with your right hand just like you did in Step 5 and make the cut. This will be the left side of the outside corner.
Tags: inside corner, 45-degree mark, molding from, outside corner, against back
A traditional Italian kitchen is more than a room to store pots and pans. It is a gathering place, an espresso bar, a spot to view the garden and, of course, the room for trying out recipes and planning menus. Italian kitchens marry form and function by eschewing clutter in favor of beautiful basics.
Instructions
1. Determine the scope of your project. If you aim for a full kitchen redesign, you can renovate Italian-style by installing marble counters, terracotta floors and incorporating architectural features such as arches, niches and columns. Plan a big picture window above the kitchen sink to take in the garden flowers or even outdoor statuary or a water feature.
2. Consider color. No matter the scope of the project, wall, floor, counter and furniture colors are a decisive factor in . Natural tones are ideal, but this goes far beyond shades of brown. There is the gold of sand or ripe pears, the blue of the Mediterranean, the burgundies of wine, the green of olives and the rich reds of peppers. Rather than creating a pristine environment, consider adding texture, faux finishes and shabby chic accents to lend the kitchen an old world charm.
3. Diversify the palette with accent shades. Hand-painted tiles with indigo, burnt orange or sunflower-yellow details add Italian panache. Try complementing the wall colors with an earthy or bright shade on the trim, baseboards, door or window frames. Bright copper pans, bouquets of wildflowers, stacks of ripe fruit and earthenware bowls also add color.
4. Purchase a few pieces that reflect Italian style. You can invest in a vintage wooden table or a metal Italian bistro set with a mosaic tile tabletop. Add chunky metal hardware to cabinets or punctuate the wall with wrought-iron pieces. Comb the goods at a local flea market, yard sale or antique store for fruit bowls, clay pots, wooden shelves or a wine rack.
5. Accessorize the kitchen with Italian items. Select items that are useful and, preferably, hand-crafted, such as painted canisters or framed landscape paintings. Bring nature to the kitchen by displaying fresh produce in bowls, setting a blossom afloat in a flowered teacup, placing leafy plants on shelves and allowing in natural light with sheer curtains.
Contemporary style is clean and modern, with an emphasis on design and an organized calm. If this sounds like what you'd like for your dining room, you may be overwhelmed by the updates you need to make. However, choosing contemporary lighting effects in your dining room can be a first and dramatic step to creating a more modern space. Look for lighting effects that are interesting, one of a kind, which focus on design elements and your need for lighting in a vital space in your home. Your dining room can be contemporary with stylish lighting effects.
Track Lighting
When you think of a dining room, it's a good chance that you automatically think of a large, centerpiece chandelier as the primary source for lighting effects in the space. Contemporary are all about thinking outside the box when it comes to lighting solutions. Instead of going with one lighting source, choose a modern and industrial lighting track, which can give you a lot of light while showing off the clean lines of the room. A track lighting gives a more industrial and minimalist feel while still being functional. Put the track on a dimmer, so you can adjust the brightness for better ambiance while entertaining.
Pendent Lights
Pendant lights have surged in popularity when it comes to kitchen lighting, so why not add them to your dining room for a chic feel? Adding pendent lighting effects in groups of three or four can bring some drama and elegance to your dining room space. Choose interesting shades to accent the room colors, or go with a sleek silver for a more minimalist look. Center the table underneath the pendents, or use them to brighten up an area that you use for entertaining, such as a bar. They'll shed light without being too garish and bare.
Chandeleir
If you have a more contemporary style but still want a traditional chandelier for the lighting effects in your dining room, choose one with interesting details and modern styling so that it fits in with the theme of the home. Look for ones with positionable lights in chrome or colorful shades that can be interchangeable. You can find contemporary chandeliers in small home decor homes and by artists who focus on lighting effects. Ducking into some out of the way shops can reward you with a contemporary, quirky lighting solution that will bring the entire dining room together.
Tags: dining room, lighting effects, your dining room, your dining, effects your
Hanging your chandelier at the right height helps give your room a professionally decorated look.
Whether it's dripping with cut crystal, hand-forged from blackened iron or made from a prized set of deer antlers, a pretty chandelier hanging over a dining table is the crowning glory of the room. With all the drama and attention a chandelier commands, hanging it correctly is important. While there is no hard-and-fast rule dictating the exact height at which a chandelier must hang, there are guidelines and pointers to take into consideration.
Hanging a Chandelier Over a Standard-height Table
If you hang your chandelier too low, it will be in the way of diners. On the other hand, if you hang it too high, it will lose visual impact and won't properly illuminate your table. The top surface of a standard-height table is about 30 inches from the ground. You should hang your chandelier so that there is about 30 to 34 inches between the tabletop and the bottom of the chandelier, which gives you plenty of clearance for tabletop flower arrangements, candlesticks and serving dishes and also gives you and your guests an unobstructed view of each other when you're sitting at the table.
Hanging a Chandelier Over a Counter-height Table
With counter-height dining tables rising in popularity, homeowners who purchase them may find they need to raise their dining room chandeliers slightly. The top of a counter-height dining table is approximately 35 to 36 inches from the floor; therefore, a chandelier that was installed over a 30-inch-tall table should be raised about 6 inches for a counter-height table. By the same token, if you install a chandelier based on a counter height table and then put a standard table in its place, the chandelier will seem too high and will need to be lowered slightly.
High Ceillings
While hanging your chandelier 30 to 34 inches above your tabletop is a good rule, that measurement is based upon 8-foot ceilings. Designers recommend raising 's height slightly, about 3 inches for 9-foot ceilings, and adding another 3 inches for 10-foot ceilings. If your ceilings are 9 feet or taller, get a larger chandelier with two tiers, which will help to fill and visually balance the space above your table.
Other Considerations
Factor in your chandelier's's style when determining how high or low to hang it over your table. Because there is no hard-and-fast rule, sit at while a friend holds your chandelier at various heights. The right height is one that you feel comfortable with and like the looks of and that allows ample room for eye contact, serving dishes and floral arrangements. Another consideration is the light itself. For example, if your chandelier has bowl-shaped glass shades, hang it so that you or your guests cannot easily look inside it and see dust, crumbs or bugs that have met their demise.
Tags: your chandelier, about inches, your table, above your, Chandelier Over, chandelier that, chandelier will
Use spray paint to update an old brass light fixture with a new painted finish.
When shopping in a flea market, a homeowner may like the look and shape of a chandelier but be unhappy with the finish of the item. Refinishing a light to give it an updated appearance is a simple weekend project. The key to a successful fixture makeover is to apply several thin coats of spray paint, according to the Apartment Therapy website. This helps prevent uneven or sloppy painting. A brass fixture can be made to resemble a copper or oil-rubbed finish. Or, paint fixtures in glossy, primary colors that compliment the d cor.
Instructions
1. Cover the work surface with newspaper. Be sure to tape it down with masking tape to prevent spray paint from getting underneath the corners.
2. Use a screw driver to remove the light fixture from the wall or ceiling. Remove light bulbs, glass or other ornaments from the fixture.
3. Use a clean rag to wipe down the metal surfaces of the light fixture. Fill a bucket with warm water and a liquid soap. Dip a rag into the water and wash off any dirt and grime that does not come off with dry dusting. Allow the light fixture to dry.
4. Wrap plastic bags around any areas of the light which will not be painted, according to the Krylon website. Secure with painter's tape. Place painter's tape over any small areas that should not be painted.
5. Spray a thin coat of spray paint over the light fixture. Spray in a single direction to avoid overlapping or dripping paint. Allow the fixture to sit for 10 minutes, the Apartment Therapy website reports. Apply another coat to the surface of the light fixture. Continue this process until the light is adequately covered.
6. Allow the paint to dry for about 48 hours. When the paint is completely dry to the touch, reattach bulbs, glass and ornaments. Hang the light back up.
A Jack and has a tall order--to link the style of one of the bedrooms adjoining it to the style of the other bedroom it connects to. So if your daughter is all about old fashioned pink toile and your son's room has a motorcycle theme, the Jack and Jill bathroom's decor has to be a happy medium.
Instructions
1. Start with a neutral color if the Jack and Jill bathroom is linking two very different color schemes. If you have pastels in one room and primary colors in another, a neutral beige or light yellow will be your middleground palette.
2. Be creative when it comes to themes. Think about the themes in each adjoining bathroom and come up with a way to link them. If you have dinosaurs in one room and flowers in another, green leaves or other tropical, non-floral vegetation meet these themes in the middle. Take advantage of any shared elements from both bedrooms.
3. Consider the ages of the people sharing the bathroom. Children of both genders can enjoy unisex themes like the alphabet, animals or the beach, while teens or adults living on either side of a Jack and Jill might be better suited to a simple color block pattern, dots or stripes.
4. Consider designating "his" and "hers" sections of the bathroom. A neutral base can be accented by pinks on one side and blues on another. Each child could get their own gender-specific station at the vanity. If kids of the same gender share the Jack and Jill, you can still use different colors and styles for each child. While you vary the colors, keep the overall tone the same--doing ultra-contemporary on one side and formal Victorian on the other will be a weird clash.
When water soaks into cedar wood, it causes unattractive dark stains that ruin the wood's finished look. This is particularly true if stains are from hard water. Depending on the water stain's nature, whether they are superficial or have seeped into the wood, getting rid of them is simple or may require you to completely strip and refinish the wood. When refinishing the wood, use a waterproof wood sealer preventing future stains.
Instructions
Superficial Water Stains
1. Place a clean, dry, lint-free cloth over the water stains. This prevents the wood from scorching or getting heat marks.
2. Preheat your iron to its highest setting. Place the iron on the cloth and let it sit for about five seconds. Don't leave it on any longer, or you may further damage the wood finish.
3. Check the water stain. It should have lightened from the heat. Repeat the process until the water stain is gone. If the stains have soaked into the wood beyond the finish, refinish the wood.
Deep-Seated Water Stains
4. Sand down the old finish with 100-grit sandpaper. If the wood's surface is broad and flat, use a handheld orbital sander. Otherwise, use a sanding block or sanding sponge. The latter is especially good for getting into small areas or intricate designs. If the wood is not stained or sealed, skip this step.
5. Wipe away the dust. Mix 4 ounces, about one-half cup, of oxalic acid crystals into 1 gallon of hot water. Stir it until the crystals dissolve completely. Dip a scrub brush into the solution and use this to scrub the wood. This bleaches the wood and removes remaining water stains.
6. Restain the cedar wood with a stain of your choice. Dip a cloth into the wood stain and rub the stain into the wood, working with the grain. Let the stain dry.
7. Seal the stained cedar wood with a wood sealer, such as polyurethane, varnish or shellac. Each type of sealer has different application instructions, which also vary by manufacturer. See the product label for detailed information and directions.
Tags: cedar wood, into wood, water stain, cedar wood with, , water stains
Recessed lighting gives your home a dramatic and modern look.
Recessed lighting is subtle because the bulbs are tucked away in the ceiling and only the trim shows. Installing recessed lighting is fairly simple and affordable, which is why many choose to replace their lighting fixtures with recessed lighting. The cost of depends on several factors.
Features
Recessed lighting is available in several types of bulbs. If you want to save money on your electric bill or if being environmentally friendly is important to you, opt for the low-voltage bulb models. Although these bulbs can cost $100 more, as of 2011, than basic bulbs, they might save you more money in the long-run.
Considerations
Do-it-yourself recessed lighting kits are available for approximately $30 per light, as of January 2011. To have a professional install the lighting for you, you can spend upwards of $200 per light, according to Costhelper.com.
Warning
If you're installing recessed lighting in a finished home, you might discover insulation above the ceiling where you want the lighting to be installed. Avoid the potential of a fire by using heat-proof fixtures.
While curving molding is more difficult than applying a simple perpendicular mitre joint, it can be done. There are two methods for putting a curve in originally straight molding, kerf cutting and steam bending. Kerf cutting involves making a series of small slices in the molding to allow it to bend. Steam beaming involves building a small steamer, heating the wood with moisture, and then letting it cool on a jig made to your desired radius.
Instructions
Kerf Cutting
1. Measure the perimeter of the curve. Mark this length on your molding, so you know what distance your kerf lines need to cover.
2. Mark kerf lines on your molding. Using a pencil, place a mark every inch along the portion of the molding you need to bend. For external corners, make your marks on the back of the molding, and for internal corners, make your marks on the front of the wood.
3. Set your table or radial saw to slice the wood with one-sixteenth of an inch remaining. At this thickness, the wood should be easy to bend.
4. Make your cuts moving every inch along the wood and making your slices. When finished, the front or back of the wood (depending on corner you need to round) will look "ribbed" in appearance.
5. Place wood glue inside the notches you made and bend the wood to your desired circumference. Place clamps on the wood to hold it in place until the glue thoroughly dries.
Steam Bending
6. Build a steam box by taking a piece of PVC pipe large enough to fit your molding, and cut to a length roughly 6 inches longer than the length of molding you wish to steam.
7. Glue an end cap to one end of the PVC pipe and drill a hole approximately one-quarter of an inch into the end cap. This allows the steam to escape.
8. Drill another hole toward the front of your PVC steam chamber. Insert your steam pipe from your steamer into this hole, and make sure it has a good fit.
9. Place your molding inside the PVC steam chamber and cap the other end. Turn on your steamer and allow the wood to steam. As a general rule, provide one hour of steaming per inch of thickness of the lumber to make it pliable enough to bend.
10. Put on heat-resistant, heavy duty gloves and use tongs to remove the molding from the steam chamber when the steaming process is complete. Be careful, the wood is very hot at this point.
11. Place your molding over a plywood jig cut to match the curvature of your corners. Clamp the molding to the jig and allow the molding to cool and dry.
12. Unclamp the molding when it is cool. When you remove the molding, it will be the shape of the jig you clamped it to. You can now install your molding in a curve.
Tags: your molding, steam chamber, corners make, corners make your, every inch, every inch along, inch along
The shade of blue you select will likely depend on the size of your room.
Adding a punch of color such as blue to a ceiling in your home is one way to add interest to the room. While traditional paint will work on a ceiling, specific ceiling paint is recommended for the job because it provides a more uniform surface, according to Home Depot. Preparation is key in any painting job, particularly so when it comes to ceilings. If you select the wrong shade of blue, your room may appear smaller than you'd like.
Instructions
1. Use a shade of blue that is appropriate for the size of your room. Dark shades of color will make a room appear smaller, while lighter shades typically give the appearance of more space. If you want to make your room feel cozy, a dark shade of blue that visually lowers the ceiling may be just right. Otherwise, stick to lighter shades.
2. Apply painter's tape to the very top of the walls to prevent the ceiling paint from bleeding onto the walls.
3. Paint the perimeter of the ceiling with a nylon or polyester brush between 2 and 3 inches wide. Use thin coats of paint rather than one thick layer that will take longer to dry and may be uneven. Allow each coat to dry completely before applying the next; darker colors will likely require at least two coats.
4. Fill a tray with paint, and work a roller into the paint until it is saturated. Buy a paint roller with a 3- to 4-foot handle if you want to avoid working from a ladder. For ceilings will little texture, use a 1/2-inch roller. And for ceilings with a heavy texture, use a 1/2- to 1-inch roller.
5. Apply paint in a corner of the room, about 3 inches from where the perimeter paint ends, making a "W" shape with the roller. Work in small 3 foot-by-3 foot sections instead of trying to tackle a large area at once.
6. Continue to make a "W" shape with your roller until the 3 foot-by-3 foot area is completely filled in, and then move on to the adjoining section of ceiling.
7. Blend the sections together by lightly passing the roller over the border of each new section with last one. Allow each coat to dry completely before adding another. Apply the same number of coats to the center of the ceiling that you applied along the perimeter to ensure a uniform look.
8. Wait for the paint to dry for at least one hour before removing the painter's tape.
Tags: shade blue, , Allow each, Allow each coat, appear smaller, blue that
When it comes to interior design, using a rustic theme may be one of the most inexpensive ways to go. Decorating with a rustic theme allows you to use natural materials, which can be inexpensive compared with modern or classical materials. Best of all, it easy.
Instructions
1. Choose a paint color. When choosing a color, be sure that the walls will coordinate with your countertops, flooring and any trim that will not be painted. For a rustic theme, keep the colors muted and natural, such as browns and greens.
2. Choose two accent colors. The accent colors should coordinate with your wall color but add a pop of different color. If you have an outdated bathroom that has blue, green or even pink countertops, consider using the countertop color as one of the . This will make the countertop seem like it was put there on purpose and help it blend into your new design. The other accent color could be a darker or lighter tone of your wall color.
3. Decide on window treatments and a shower curtain. These should fit the feel of the room; anything too modern or too ornate will take away from the simplicity of a rustic bathroom.
4. Shop for accessories. Keep in mind that for a rustic themed room things need to kept simple and natural. One of the accessories that will make the biggest impact in your redecorated bathroom will be the towels, but these don't have to be expensive. Shop around for sales. Bamboo is a renewable resource and perfect for a rustic-themed room, so consider tissue holders, toothbrush holders and soap dishes made of bamboo. Visit a craft store or a dollar store, and pick up a bag or two of river rocks and a vase.
5. Pick out twigs or sticks. They can be found at a craft store, although they tend to be a bit pricey. You can also take the family out for a walk and pick up interesting-looking small sticks and twigs.
6. Clear out the room of everything that isn't permanent. This will allow you to paint without having to worry about drips on things you'd like to keep and will let you see the unadulterated shape of the room that you will redecorate.
7. Tape off the window sills and anything else you don't want to get paint on.
8. Paint the walls and let dry.
9. Begin moving items into the room, starting with your fabric elements.
10. To fill an open corner, put the twigs into the vase and place river rocks around it.
11. Hang pictures.
Tags: accent colors, rustic theme, that will, with your, your wall color, coordinate with
Stenciled designs on the ceiling can be an ornate decoration.
Stenciling interior surfaces can be an ideal way to add special decorative touches to rooms. Because paint is relatively inexpensive, creating stenciled designs with paint can enable you to decorate and embellish without spending much money. You might even paint stencils on ceilings to add unusual embellishments that will draw the eye upward. Choose your colors and stencil design and get ready to create a masterpiece.
Instructions
1. Stand on a stepladder so that you can reach the ceiling comfortably. Hold the stencil template where you wish to apply stencils and mark small lines on the ceiling with the pencil to indicate the placement of the stencil. Move the template along the ceiling to plan the entire stenciling placement, ensuring that the design you wish to create will fit on the ceiling space. As you move the template along the ceiling, make more marks for stencil placement to indicate where you must move the template as you work.
2. Place the stencil in place on the ceiling where you wish to begin stenciling. Tape the stencil in place with the painter's tape.
3. Add dollops of acrylic paint to the paint palette, placing each color you wish to use onto the palette.
4. Dip the stenciling brush into a dollop of paint and pounce the brush lightly onto the paper towel to remove excess paint from the bristles. To achieve the best stenciling effect, the bristles need only a small amount of paint.
5. Pounce the stenciling brush onto the stenciling template to apply paint to the ceiling. Use an up and down motion with the brush to transfer a light layer of paint to the the stencil spaces. Strive for a very thin layer of paint--so thin that it dries quickly after you apply it. Continue applying paint onto the ceiling through the stencil until you complete the entire stencil design, changing colors as necessary.
6. Remove the painter's tape and move the the ceiling to continue applying the stencil design. Work carefully to apply paint through the template until you finish stenciling the ceiling in the desired design.
Tags: , stencil design, template along, template along ceiling, apply paint, ceiling through, ceiling through stencil
If you are renovating a room and don't want to deal with handling drywall on the ceiling, consider installing a suspended ceiling system. This project is not difficult and is an economical way to hide pipes, wiring and unsightly cracked ceilings. Manufacturers of ceiling tile realize that homeowners want something more than just white ceilings. You can purchase a suspended ceiling system with different colors of ceiling tiles. The tiles are also available in a wide variety of textures.
Instructions
1. Measure four inches down from the ceiling. Mark this as a level line all the way around the room with a chalk line. You need four inches of space to drop the ceiling tiles into place. If you plan to add light fixtures in the suspended ceiling, add two more inches to the depth from the ceiling or joists.
2. Locate the wall studs. Nail the perimeter rails that come with the suspended ceiling system to the studs with 6 d nails. Align the top of the rail with the chalk line. Cut the rail with tin snips as necessary to make it fit. Butt the corners together.
3. Use the stud finder to locate the ceiling joists. Measure the width of the room perpendicular to the way the joists run. Divide that number by the width of the ceiling tiles you are installing. If that number is not even, the remainder is how much tile you are going to have left over. Divide that amount by two to get the width of the outside panels. In other words, balance the layout of the ceiling tiles so that there's a narrower row along the outside edge. Snap chalk lines accordingly on the ceiling with spacing for full size tiles set at 4 feet apart, or whatever is appropriate for the size tiles you are using.
4. Tie one end of a piece of string so it's level with the bottom of the perimeter rail. Fasten it on the opposite wall so the string is taut. Create a grid across the ceiling with string. This provides the level-line marker for the suspension grids.
5. Twist eyebolts into every third ceiling joist along the chalk line. Wrap the end of a piece of 16-gauge wire through an eyebolt and tie it off by twisting it three times. Allow the wire to hang several inches below the string line. Repeat this across the room, adding wire to each of the eyebolts.
6. Snap a row of ceiling beam pieces together. Set one end in the outside rail. Some systems have slots to connect the into. Slide the other end in position. Align the rail with the chalk line on the ceiling.
7. Pull the end of a support wire through a hole on the topside of the . Fasten the end of the wire by wrapping it around itself. Cut off any extra with a pair of wire cutters. The beam should be level with the string grid. Repeat this process until you finish setting all the ceiling beam pieces perpendicular to the ceiling joists. Remove the string.
8. Put the crossbeams in position. With most systems they simply snap in place. Use tin snips to cut short pieces around the outside of the room.
9. Cut the narrow pieces of ceiling tile that may surround the perimeter of the ceiling. Use a utility knife and a straight edge to make a clean cut from the face side of the tile. Make a paper template of irregular shapes to help you cut them accurately. Slide each tile in position.
10. Set the full-sized tiles in position in the grid.
If you want to finish an attic, basement or another space, you can put wall paneling over the ceiling for a kind of rustic look. You can complete the entire project yourself, saving money otherwise spent on a carpenter or contractor. The job is not difficult and can be finished over a weekend. It will go quicker with a helper.
Instructions
1. Stand on a ladder and place a stud finder against the ceiling. Mark the location of the trusses or studs in the ceiling with a marker.
2. Measure the square footage of the room with a tape measure. Place the tape measure across the floor in one direction, note the distance, then run the tape measure in the other direction and note the distance to get the square footage. For instance, if the room is 10 by 15 feet, the square footage would be 150 square feet or 10 multiplied by 15.
3. Measure and cut wall paneling with a circular saw to cover the ceiling. For instance, if the wall panels are 4 by 8 feet, you would need five panels to cover the ceiling.
4. Load stainless steel nails into a nail gun and fasten the wall panels to the ceiling by driving the nails through the wall panels into the trusses or studs behind the ceiling.
Tags: , tape measure, , , direction note, direction note distance
Wood paneling can create a dark feeling in a room.
In many older homes dated wood paneling creates a dark, cave-like feeling. When you want to brighten your home, examine ways that you can cover the paneling without going to the trouble and expense of removing the paneling. Choose an option that suits your abilities and budget, and work carefully to avoid a sloppy end result.
Whitewashed Look
Turn a dark, paneled room into one with a rustic, whitewashed look by painting over the panels. First, wash the walls thoroughly to remove dirt and cleaning wax that have accumulated over the years. Prime them with one or two oil-based primer layers, which will help the paint stick to the wall instead of rolling off the surface of the paneling. Depending on the type of paneling in your home, you may need to experiment with different brands of primer to find one that works with your walls. Once the walls have been primed, cover them with a single layer of white paint, and let them dry completely. Continue to add coats until you have a solid covering with a few shadows from the paneling showing through; the darker areas will add texture and depth and give the look of wooden, whitewashed walls.
Filled Grooves
If you want to give your paneled walls a seamless look, fill in the grooves and paint the walls. The Ask the Builder website recommends that you prime the panels first to account for the difference in texture and porosity between the paneling and the spackle. Ask at a home supply store for a primer that is appropriate. Once the wall is dried completely, use spackling compound to fill in the grooves between panels, making sure to scrape the surface to make it level. When the spackle is dry, you can paint the walls. If the lines between panels still show up, mix stucco into the paint so that the additional texture will hide the grooves.
Wallpaper
To give new life to a wall that is covered in paneling, use wallpaper. If the grooves in the wall are deep, fill them with caulking and smooth them over with a putty knife to even out the surface. Apply primer over the surface. When it is dry, the Whitman Wallpaper website advises that you use an acrylic-emulsion sizing to create a textured surface. Cover the wall with wallpaper liner, and, when it is set, hang the wallpaper as usual. The wallpaper liner will allow the paper to hang smoothly without showing the seams between the panels.
Tags: between panels, them with, fill grooves, , wallpaper liner
Wall trim is molding, usually wood, that decorates walls and ceilings, while is installed specifically where the walls meet the ceiling and is also called cornice. Wall trim and crown molding add to the architectural beauty of your home. Installing molding is a fairly inexpensive way to achieve a high-end look. Learning install wall trim and crown molding will prepare you to tackle this project in your own home.
Instructions
1. Measure the wall with a measuring tape. This will enable you to know how much molding you need to purchase.
2. Trim the end of the first piece of crown molding or wall trim with a miter saw. Set the saw table at a 45-degree angle. If you are cutting crown molding, set both the saw blade and saw table to a 45-degree angle. Cut the end of the molding at a 45-degree angle. The direction of the angle will depend on the corner you are beginning from. Outside corners and inside corners should be trimmed in opposite directions.
3. Place the trimmed end of the crown molding on the wall next to the corner. Use a pneumatic nail gun to nail the molding or trim into place. You may need a partner to hold the molding in place while you nail it securely.
4. Measure the wall space for the next piece of molding. Transfer the measurement to the molding or trim with a pencil. Use the compound miter saw to cut the second piece. Butt the molding against the first piece of molding. Nail it into place with a nail gun. Repeat with all of the crown molding or wall trim until the molding is installed.
5. Fill nail holes with wood putty, using your finger. Allow the putty to dry completely.
6. Apply a bead of caulk along the seam between the wall and the molding. Spread it smooth with your finger. Allow the caulk to dry completely.
Acrylic is a clear, durable plastic that is used for a wide variety of construction purposes. It is often substituted for glass because it is impact resistant and lighter. Thin sheets of acrylic are also used as ceiling panels to cover light bulbs and fixtures. When installing an acrylic ceiling panel, you may need to cut it into a specific size. Luckily, panels are thin and cutting them requires only basic cutting tools.
Instructions
1. Lay the acrylic ceiling panel on a flat, sturdy table. If the panel has a decorative side, make sure it is facing downward.
2. Place a tape measure onto the panel to determine where you need to cut it at.
3. Place a at the desired cutting location and use a dry erase marker to draw a cut line on the panel.
4. Keep the in place and hold it down firmly with your hand. Place the blade of a utility knife along side the straight edge and push down as you pull it all the way along the cut line. Recut the panel seven or eight times using the same method.
5. Set aside the straight edge and the utility knife. Move the acyclic panel to the edge of the table until the cut line hangs off by 1/4 to 1/2 inch.
6. Place one hand firmly on top of the acrylic panel. Grasp the overhanging edge with your other hand and snap it down firmly to break it off of the panel.
Recycle old vanities for a stylish and functional addition to any room in your home. Vanities are a combination of a dresser, table or chest with a mirror. Usually they furnish bathrooms or bedrooms. Bedroom vanities often have an accompanying stool; bathroom vanities usually contain a sink. Old vanities might be in good condition, ready to feature as-is in an unexpected location, or they may be battered, ready for a revamp. Evaluate the condition of your vanity, and recycle it to play up its assets.
Child's Playroom
Give an old that has seen better days a fresh coat of princess-pink paint; reupholster the stool in metallic silver, and place it in a child's room so that she can primp and pose her heart out in front of the mirror. Decorate the edges of the mirror with gold paint, or bejewel it with hot glue and plastic gemstones. You can't hurt a vanity that is past its prime; reviving it can make her dress-up play even more glamorous. The drawers can store faux makeup, doll clothes and toys.
Potting Shed
Install an old bathroom vanity that contains a sink in a potting shed for a quirky and functional addition to the space. Plumbing in the potting shed is handy for washing pots and watering seedlings. If you don't have plumbing in the shed, put the vanity on casters. Direct the drainage pipe to exit the rear of the vanity, and roll it outside to use with a hose for washing and watering. The plug in the basin allows you to do tasks like scrubbing and soaking dirty pots while standing up, rather than crouching over the yard or driveway. The cabinetry can store clean pots, saucers and other garden supplies.
Closet Storage
An old bedroom vanity that has lost its stool can give a walk-in closet a romantic feel while providing space to store sundries, such as nylons, vintage bow ties and lingerie. Add a decorative lamp for lighting that provokes a peaceful mood as you hang up your clothes at the end of each day. Jewelry can live in silver and crystal dishes originally intended for the kitchen; drape scarves and neckties casually over the mirror.
Storage Cabinet
Remove the sink from an old bathroom vanity. Replace the top with a solid piece of plywood or an old door. Use the cabinetry as extra storage in a garage or basement. If you follow an impulse to rejuvenate the piece decoratively, place it more prominently. A slab of white marble salvaged from an old building on top of a vanity stained a deep shade of mahogany can be a convenient spot for housing a television in an eclectic game room or can make a handsome dresser in a bedroom.
It's no secret that most do-it-yourselfers like to save time by skipping or combining steps. When it comes to painting, this is usually ill-advised. However, there are certain situations that allow you to cut a corner or two. Mixing paint with ceiling texture can help you combine two or even three steps into one. However, mixing the two materials is not as easy as stirring them together with a simple wooden stir stick. If you'd like to mix ceiling texture, you will need to follow the appropriate steps or you're likely to end up with inconsistent distribution resulting in an unattractive, uneven-looking finish.
Instructions
1. Pour the paint into the five-gallon bucket. Fill it to no more than two-thirds capacity.
2. Attach the spade handle mixing paddle to the power drill.
3. Plug the drill in if you do not have battery power.
4. Add the ceiling texture to the paint within the five-gallon bucket.
5. Insert the mixing paddle about halfway into the ceiling texture and paint. Begin the drill on a low setting.
6. Increase the drill's power from low to medium, and then up to high.
7. Raise the drill one inch as it spins, then lower it one inch. Repeat this action for about five minutes.
8. Repeat steps five, six and seven until the ceiling texture appears evenly distributed within the paint.
If you're looking for a quick and simple update to your existing bathroom, you might consider painting the floor. You can paint virtually any bathroom flooring (perhaps with the exception of carpet), from tile to linoleum to cement. This tutorial provides the steps needed to paint a bathroom floor.
Instructions
1. Repair and clean your bathroom floor. Caulk cracks and spaces around the bottom of the vanity. Sand linoleum, vinyl, tile and wood floors. Clean the the floor thoroughly.
2. Apply an oil-based primer to the prepared floor. Allow the primer to dry and then apply a second coat. Allow this coat of primer to dry as well.
3. Paint a strip around the outer edge of to use as a guide as you paint the rest of the floor. Begin painting at the farthest back corner from the door. Paint toward the door to prevent having to step on already painted areas. Let the floor dry and apply a second coat. After the second coat has dried, it may be necessary to apply a third coat of paint.
4. Once the floor is completely painted and dried, you can proceed to paint stencils or a faux finish if you desire.
Tags: second coat, apply second, apply second coat, bathroom floor, your bathroom
Crown molding is a type of molding that fills in the space between the ceiling and the tops of walls. It adds character to a room and provides it with a finished look. However, there are hundreds of types of available, and selecting the right one can be difficult. With a bit of preparation and some research, you can select crown molding that will compliment your home's design and look great for years to come.
Instructions
1. Measure the height of the ceiling in the room where you want to install crown molding. Wider molding is best for tall ceilings and narrower molding should be used on shorter ceilings. In a room where the walls are seven feet tall, use molding that's no larger than three inches. A room with a 17-foot ceiling can accommodate eight-inch molding, according to Glass Creek Remodeling.
2. Consider the overall design of your home. Contemporary homes generally call for more subdued designs. Older homes and period-style homes may look better with more ornate, intricate designs.
3. Take the size and style of the room's baseboard into account. Your crown molding should match the size and style of the baseboard to give the room a coordinated look. If you have larger or smaller than standard baseboard, you may have to choose larger or smaller crown molding to balance the room.
4. Decide what material you want your crown molding to be made from. For a natural, stained-wood look, a hardwood such as oak is a good choice. If you are going to paint the molding, softer woods such as pine are less expensive and will look the same after painting. Modern crown molding also comes in materials other than wood, such as polyurethane. These alternative materials are generally cheaper than wood, and are often easier to maintain.
5. Visit your local home-improvement store and purchase small samples of the types of molding you are considering. Temporarily attach them and see how well you like the designs before purchasing crown molding for the entire room.
6. Select the which meets your requirements, and that you think looks best in the room. Your personal taste will factor into any home-improvement decision, and only you can select crown molding that is right for your living space.
A ceiling fan adds class to a room, and helps cool the space in hot weather. Most modern ceiling fan units are pre-wired internally, so all you have to do is wire them to a ceiling electrical box. You can wire a ceiling fan just about anywhere that there is a ceiling light fixture, as long as the electrical box is mounted correctly to a ceiling joist.
Instructions
1. Turn off the power to the room at the fuse box.
2. Position a ladder under the electrical box and climb up. Remove any existing light fixture or plate that covers the box. Pull out the wires from inside the box, separating them and removing any tape or wire nuts from the ends. There should be a white wire and a black wire. There might also be a bare copper grounding wire.
3. If the fan unit came with a metal plate designed to go over the electrical box, secure it in position with the provided screws. Bring the fan unit to the top of the ladder. Some models contain a metal hook that allows the unit to hang from the electrical box while you connect the wires. If not, set the unit on top of the ladder while you wire it.
4. Connect the wires. Hold the ends next to each other (side by side), twist wire nuts over them and wrap them with electrical tape. Connect white to white, and black to black (or red). Connect the wire from the unit to the green grounding screw in the electric box. If there is a copper grounding wire coming out of the box, twist the end of it onto the same grounding screw.
5. Lift the fan unit to the ceiling and tuck all of the wires into the electrical box. Fasten the unit to the box as directed by the instructions. Generally, there will be a center screw thread and mounting screws around the edges.
Romex is a specific brand of electrical wire manufactured by Southwire, but the term has developed into a generic way to identify other brands of similar wire. Romex is a solid or stranded copper-core wire with non-metallic (NM) outer insulation, used primarily for indoor in homes and commercial buildings.
History
The Rome Wire Company developed an insulated electrical building wire called Romex in 1922. In 1927, General Cable acquired the Rome Wire Company and the Romex brand until Southwire purchased General Cable's building wire division in 2001.
Types
Romex wire is available in several configurations to suit specific residential and light commercial electrical building applications. The 10, 12, and 14 gauge wire (10 gauge being the thickest) in two and three conductor configurations are standard. The 12 and 14 gauge Romex is used in the majority of home and and commercial electrical applications, while 10 gauge is used primarily for heavier commercial and light industrial electrical loads, such as those required for commercial-grade appliances and machinery. The number of conductor wires does not include the ground wire. Heavier gauge Romex is used in high voltage industrial and commercial applications.
External Wire Identification
Romex wire can be identified by the Romex brand name, gauge, and number of internal conductor wires stamped on the outer insulation. For standard Romex used in residential and commercial projects, color-coded exterior insulation will assist in determining the cable type. White is used to identify 14 gauge 2 and 3 conductor wire (14/2 or 14/3), yellow is used for 12 gauge 2 and 3 conductor wire (12/2 or 12/3), and orange is used for 10 gauge 2 and 3 conductor wire (10/2 or 10/3). Gray outer insulation is used to identify 2, 4, 6 and 8 gauge industrial-grade Romex.
Internal Wire Identification
National Electrical Codes determine the insulation color of electrical building wire. Ground wires are bare, and have no insulation. Positive "hot" wires are either black or red, and the neutral wire is white. The two "hot" wire insulation colors (black and red) are used for 3 conductor cable, when two positive wires are required for certain electrical connections. For 2 conductor cable, black is the standard identification color for the positive wire.
Warning
Romex brand cable is intended for indoor applications in dry areas only, and is not suitable for outdoor or underground use. Most electrical wiring jobs must be done in accordance with local, state, and national laws and published standards (codes). Although some electrical wiring projects are easy, it is necessary to check with your local building inspector to determine which jobs are legal to perform without employing a licensed electrician. Aside from the dangers of electrocution, improper wiring can cause house fires or damage to electrical appliances and fixtures.
Ceiling tiles might need to be cleaned from time to time.
You might have ceiling tiles in various areas of your home, including your kitchen, bathroom or basement. Ceiling tiles are more likely to be in areas that require access to the inside of the ceiling, such places where there are pipes in the ceiling or a large fluorescent light fixture. With the right techniques, you can clean and restore your ceiling tiles so they look as good as they did when they were first installed.
Instructions
1. Test out your stepladder. You need to be able to reach the ceiling tiles with ease to clean and restore them.
2. Go over the ceiling tiles carefully, using a static duster. This duster will attract dust and cobwebs to help clean the ceiling.
3. Use the dusting attachment on your vacuum cleaner to clear dust from the tiny spaces in porous .
4. Clean stains from the ceiling tiles. For porous ceilings, use a dry sponge, which you can purchase at janitorial supply stores. For nonporous ceiling tiles, use a sponge and a mild solution of water and liquid dish soap. Just a few drops of the dish soap will do.
5. Wipe down the rest of a nonporous ceiling with a cloth and the liquid dish soap cleaning solution. Wipe with a damp cloth to rinse any soapy residue away.
Selecting the right lighting fixtures is a big step toward personalizing your new home. Look for fixtures that have the look you want and provide the lighting that you need.
Instructions
1. Make a list of fixtures that you require. Measure the available space for each fixture.
2. Consider you would prefer standard recessed lights. You can have your electrician supply these.
3. Consider your lighting needs in each location. Do you need extra light for doing detailed work in a given area? Do you prefer softer lighting in another?
4. Review your home to consider other areas where you may want to add lighting. For example, do you want lighting under your cabinets (to illuminate countertops)?
5. Think about areas where you may want a light/ceiling fan combination or other special item.
6. Visit several electrical supply stores or home centers.
7. Select fixtures for .
8. Consider the size and design of each fixture relative to its intended location. For example, will a fixture hang too low and impede movement?
9. Review your choices to determine any problems. For example, does a fixture require expensive or hard-to-find bulbs? Will it be physically difficult to replace bulbs in a certain fixture?
10. Check with your electrician before you buy if you have any doubts about the usability of a given fixture.
11. Purchase your chosen fixtures and arrange for delivery.
12. Consider buying extra bulbs for convenience.
Tags: areas where, areas where want, each fixture, each location, fixtures that, Review your, want lighting
The industrial revolution, improved transportation routes, and the development of a global marketplace heavily influenced design in the Victorian era (1837 to 1901). Great economic growth led to a large number of homes being built. These newly affluent homeowners benefited from a wide variety of furniture and design choices, thanks to newly discovered methods of mass manufacture, worldwide trade, and a new railway system. When making designs for rooms, such as the bathroom, Victorian homeowners were able to create rooms which blended previous styles, using materials from across the globe.
Instructions
Victorian Bathroom Design Basics
1. Opt for paint which has been designed to reproduce Victorian colors.
Select your color scheme. For a traditional Victorian look, choose darker hues, such as forest green, ruby red, or black for your bathroom design. The use of paint color was limited in the due to a lack of technical know-how. For example, purple wasn't developed until mid-century. Victorians did, however, have an impressive repertoire of paint effects, using stencils, borders, and faux marbling to liven up their walls.
2. Cast iron, roll top bathtubs can often be found at reclaimation yards.
Choose your Victorian bathroom suite. While original, reclaimed pieces are available, many homeowners choose reproduction baths, toilets and sinks. Purchasing new can help reduce costs in the short and longer term. To invoke the Victorian feeling, opt for a cast iron, clawfoot, roll top bathtub. Think simply when selecting your toilets and sinks. For an authentic look, opt for a toilet pan and a high cistern connected by a slim, visible pipe.
3. Checkerboard tiling is associated with the Victorian period.
Painted oak floorboards and patterned tiles were both popular with the Victorians. To keep costs low while increasing durability, consider using laminate or vinyl floor tiles. These are warmer and softer on the feet.
Finishing Touches for Your Victorian Bathroom
4. A fireplace adds warmth to your Victorian bathroom.
Keep warm--Victorian style--with a traditional tile surround fireplace. Make it a feature of your bathroom by choosing a grand, marble fireplace. Alternatively, opt for a cast iron radiator, painted to match your palette.
5. Wooden shutters offer bathroom privacy.
Typically, Victorian homes have large, vertically sliding sash windows. Normally these would have four or six panels of glass. If your house already benefits from these, complete the look with full-length, wooden window shutters rather than curtains.
6. Replica and original bathroom fittings are available.
The fittings you choose when building your Victorian bathroom design will complete the Victorian look. During the 19th century, a number of materials were used for items such as taps and door handles. While brass fittings give a traditional, luxurious feel, many homeowners choose nickel-plated items for a sleeker look that fits in with more modern décor.
7. Accessories can be used to give your Victorian space a modern twist.
While the Victorians viewed bathrooms for their functionality, don't forget to include a few accessories in your bathroom design. Items such as a nickel-plated bath bridge or an ornate, cast iron mirror help to complete your look.
Tags: your Victorian, , your bathroom, your Victorian bathroom, 19th century
Drop ceilings have developed a reputation for being tacky. They're not very sturdy and they stain easily. They retain dust. However, if your ceilings are too high or you want to cover exposed wiring, drop ceilings provide the perfect cover. Though drop ceilings were originally standard, modern drop tiles for ceilings come in a variety of chic designs and styles. They're also infinitely customizable, even if new tiles aren't in your budget. With just a little creative thinking, you can turn a drab drop ceiling into an awesome one.
Instructions
1. Put on goggles and a facemask to protect yourself from falling dust, plaster and debris. Climb a stepladder and push up on one of the tiles; it should pop out easily. Remove the other tiles and stack them on top of each other.
2. Paint the grid first so it has time to dry while you work on the tiles. Blot your mini roller thoroughly to avoid drips in your eyes or unsightly globs of paint. Get on the stepladder so you have the most control over the roller.
3. Cut pieces of fabric or paper about 1 inch larger than your ceiling tiles. Paint the tiles with clear sealer and smooth the fabric or paper over the sealer, folding the excess up around the tiles' sides. Cover the paper or fabric with a second coat of sealer. Allow the tiles to dry overnight. If you're painting your tiles, use a well-blotted mini roller.
4. Gently touch the grid and tiles to check if they're dry. If so, turn each tile diagonally to fit it back up through the grid and into place. If not, wait another day to install them.
Are you looking to sell your house but need to make some renovations in order to maximize how much you can get for it? Remodeling is traditionally extremely expensive, often to the point that it prevents people from making the changes to their home that they want. A classic example of this is replacing a popcorn ceiling with a more modern texture and paint color. Fortunately, this is a job that you can do yourself, and save a ton of money in labor and materials in the process.
Instructions
1. Fill about 3/4 full with hot water. Make sure that everything is connected properly and airtight. Pump it several times until it feels as if the pump is being met with a lot of resistance.
2. Set the chair in a corner of the room and step carefully up on it while holding the sprayer. Keep both feet on it at all times to ensure balance. While you can spray from the floor, standing on a chair allows you to be much closer to the ceiling and makes your job much more efficient. The popcorn ceiling will become soaked much faster and with less work.
3. Soak a 16-square foot area of the ceiling. Then set your sprayer down on the floor and pick up the or blade. Place it at an acute angle to the popcorn texturing. The blade should almost be level with the ceiling itself.
4. Push the blade forward in a smooth, controlled fashion. The popcorn texturing should fall off easily. If it doesn't, try either soaking the area some more or slightly altering the angle of the blade.
5. Repeat this process in 16-square foot increments.
6. Mix your wall texture with the amount of water suggested by the particular brand you've bought and stir to desired consistency.
7. Spray the ceiling, starting in one corner and walking straight over to the corner directly opposite. Cover the entire ceiling in rows like this, moving from one side to the other. Move at a steady pace to ensure that the texture is sprayed on consistently.
8. Using a putty knife (or similar tool), knock down the texture to achieve your desired aesthetic. If you want a large texture that appears in large smears, use the knife to spread the sprayed texture immediately. For a smaller texture, allow to dry for approximately fifteen minutes.
9. Apply a primer. This will allow the paint to absorb more reasonably. Without it, you'll have to apply several coats of paint.
Even the smallest bathroom can become an attractive space.
Whether it's a guest bath off the family room or a in an old house, even the smallest of bathrooms can be tastefully decorated by employing a few simple tricks. Small, inexpensive items can be added to make a room look brand new. As a bonus, simple updates will make the space more usable for you and add to the overall value of your home.
Instructions
1. Paint the walls a light, soothing shade. The darker the color, the smaller the space will feel. Choose a hue that can easily be coordinated with the accessories, such as a , that you plan to layer into the decor.
2. Change the hardware. Fresh hardware on the cabinets, a bright light switch cover and new faucet will give the space an instant face-lift. Even if they don't specifically note the new hardware, guests to your bathroom will get a sense that everything is clean and fresh.
3. Update accessories. A new rug, soap dish, toothbrush holder, medicine cabinet and hand towels are available at discount stores and will instantly update the look of your bathroom. Choose colors that coordinate with each other to give the room a well-designed look.
4. Lay new flooring. Home improvement stores frequently offer free weekend classes designed to teach you lay tile, wood or laminate flooring. Once you've gained the confidence you need to do so, a small space can be redone at relatively little cost.
5. Install new lights. Old tired lighting fixtures make the room appear dated and are less likely to provide the kind of illumination the room needs. A brightly lit bathroom makes the room appear larger and is an inexpensive way to make the space feel new.
6. Introduce textiles. Lush towels, a small tapestry on the walls and a thick area rug in front of the sink will each add texture, a sense of warmth and visual interest to a small bathroom.
Tags: hand towels, make room, make space, , small bathroom, your bathroom
Bare or old ceilings very quickly become an eyesore. Suspended ceilings are a perfect solution because they are extremely versatile and easy to repair, but they do require a lot of preparation.
Instructions
Preparation
1. Measure and diagram the room you will install the ceiling in.
2. Use the dimensions of the ceiling tiles, usually 2-feet square or 2-feet by 4-feet to create a rough diagram of the ceiling grid. The ceiling beams should be perpendicular to the joists and you will likely need to leave a border of partial tiles around the edges, plan accordingly. Use this diagram to determine how many grid pieces and ceiling tiles you will need.
You can also use the Ceiling Material Estimator listed in Resources.
3. Determine a height for your ceiling plane. Generally between 3 and 6-inches. Start in one corner, measure and mark an inch above your desired height. Using a carpeting level to mark three of the walls and snap a chalk line to mark the fourth.
4. Align the top edge of the molding at the marks you've made on one wall, and attach it with nails. Repeat for the other three walls.
For inside corners, butt the moldings together. You should miter outside corners for the best look.
5. Use the grid made earlier to measure the width of first partial ceiling tile, and mark its position at ceiling level at both ends of the room.
6. Snap a chalk line between the marks made earlier. Measure 2-feet to the next beam position and mark that.
7. Install eye hooks at all of the intersections between the joists and your ceiling beams.
8. Hang about 14-inches of wire through all of the eye hooks. Poke the wire through the hole and wrap it around a section three or four times, allowing the remaining wire to hang down.
9. Tie strings between the moldings. Place them parallel to the joists about 4-feet apart, and make sure they are taut.
Ceiling Beams
10. Calculate the length of your first partial tile, and measure it on one of your ceiling beams. The upright slots are where the cross tees meet, so measure from there.
11. Use tin snips to cut the beam to length. The best way to cut is down the upright at a slight angle and then across the bottom of the beam.
12. Butt the cut end of the beam on the molding and point it to the nearest wire. Poke the wire through the nearest hole and wrap it so the beam is level.
Repeat for any other wires that reach the beam piece.
13. Measure and cut another piece of ceiling beam and slot the ends together. Butt the cut ends in the opposite moldings and tie them to the ceiling with the hanging wire.
14. Repeat steps 2 through 4 for the remaining ceiling beams. Follow your diagram carefully.
Cross Tees
15. Measure a Cross tee to the middle of the beam nearest the wall and cut it to size. Slot the end into the beam and place it square against the molding.
Repeat for other cross tees along the wall.
16. Check the grid is square by measuring the diagonals.
17.Install the remaining cross tees. Remember to install the cross tees at 2- or 4-foot intervals depending on the types of tiles you have.
Panels
18. Measure and cut the perimeter tiles. Measure from the wall to the intersections and add 1/4-inch for the dimensions, and use a utility knife and a piece of scrap tee as a straightedge.
19. Install the . Slide the ceiling panel through the grid at an angle and then drop into position.
Repeat for the rest of the perimeter tiles.
20. Work inward, sliding the remaining tiles through the grid at an angle before dropping them into position.
Everything old is new again. Though an oil-rubbed bronze finish gives items a historic look, this finish is entirely modern due to its rampant popularity. This faux finishing technique is appropriate for light installations, drawer pulls and cabinet handles, picture frames and any other items that will accept spray paint. Applying an oil-rubbed bronze finish to all of the accessories or fixtures in a room is a cheap and easy way to accomplish a mini-makeover.
Buying Supplies
To complete this project, you will need three types of spray paint: a black indoor/outdoor spray primer, a spray paint and an spray paint. Several companies are now offering spray paints in a variety of metallic finishes, so you can choose the one that fits your taste and budget. You will also need some 20-grit sandpaper or textured primer spray.
Preparation
It is a good idea to cover the area where you plan to do your painting with a tarp. Somewhere outside is ideal, as small flecks of paint may end up on surfaces some distance away. If there are any areas on the item that you do not want to refinish that should not be sprayed, be sure to wrap them. You can use old newspaper or paper and secure it with masking tape or painter's tape for delicate items. The spray paint needs a textured surface to adhere to. If your chosen item is slick, a light sanding or an application of textured primer will provide the grip needed for the spray paint. Be sure that the item is clean, dry and dust free, especially if it has been sanded.
Painting
Follow the directions on the can and spray two thin coats of the black spray paint onto the item. Be careful not to add too much paint at one time, or it may bubble up and prevent the finish from being smooth. If your item has two sides, make sure the front is dry before you turn it over to paint the back. Apply two coats of the copper metallic paint on top of the black. The black paint ensures that the color of the copper metallic is consistent over the entire piece. Spray a coat of the oil-rubbed bronze paint over the copper metallic paint. You should not cover the entire surface of the item, but let the copper finish underneath show through. You can spray as much or as little of the oil-rubbed bronze paint to get the result you want.