Rodents are sometimes unwelcome visitors in living accommodations. They move in to take advantage of a steady supply of food and water, but these freeloaders can cause of thousands of dollars in damage to homes each year. They scurry, swim, climb, and can often be heard moving about. Mice and rats in the ceiling are a precursor to other animals finding a way into and inhabiting your attic. Raccoons and squirrels are frequent visitors who feed on mice; once the mice are gone, they continue eating the rat's food supply.
Instructions
Getting Rid of Mice or Rats
1. Set the snap traps by securing the metal wire with the locking mechanism.
2. Place the traps in the attic.
3. Place the bait on the bait platform for the mouse.
4. Check the traps and empty daily.
5. Wrap the carcasses in newspaper and place them in a tightly sealed trash can.
6. Reset the traps as described in steps 1 through 5 until the rats and mice are gone.
Bathrooms are one of the busiest rooms in your home. A bathroom is also one of the most functional rooms. However, this does not mean you can not decorate it just as you would any other room in your home. In fact, seeing that is it such a busy room, just as much time and consideration should be taken to make sure you have a bathroom that reflects your personality and style. When you apply your personality and style to a basic , it is fairly easy to have a room that is decorated beautifully.
Instructions
1. Choose accent colors carefully in your white bathroom. Be careful that your bathroom does not become cliché. Avoid the overused black-and-white and red-and-white themes. Try using soft pastels or unusual bold colors such as eggplant or forest green. Choose a theme using the colors you selected and stick with it.
2. Add wall art to your white bathroom. Following your theme, add pictures or photos to your bathroom wall. Try grouping several small pictures or photos together. You can even add a decorative border or wallpaper an accent wall to bring a bit of color to .
3. Create decorative storage for your white bathroom. Use baskets and decorative boxes in your accent colors to store bathroom essentials like toiletries, towels and the like. Try using white baskets or boxes that have been decorated with ribbons or lace in your accent colors.
4. Use accessories sparingly in your white bathroom. Avoid cluttering your bathroom with unnecessary accessories. A simple flower arrangement on the counter is usually enough. Add a small clothes hamper and waste basket in the accent colors you selected. Decorative soaps and bottles can also be used to accessorize your white bathroom.
Tags: bathroom, your white, accent colors, , white bathroom, your bathroom
When choosing a shade for a lamp base, take the time to measure the base to ensure the shade you select is the proper fit. If you don't do this properly, the lamp shade will not be in proper proportion to the lamp base and the lamp will not look right in your home.
Instructions
1. Measure the lamp from the bottom of the base to bottom of the socket cap. The shade's bottom diameter should be the same as this measurement.
2. Notice the height of the harp. The harp is the support that attaches the shade to the lamp. The height of the lampshade is related to the harp height. The shade height should be approximately the same as the harp height.
3. Choose a shade with a bottom diameter within 2 inches of the lamp height and a height that is roughly the same as the harp height.
Tags: harp height, bottom diameter, lamp base, lamp height, same harp, same harp height
Acoustical ceiling tiles will insulate, provide noise reduction both in and out of the room, eliminate echos and give your ceiling a brand new look. If you want to get a drop-ceiling look without hanging all of the necessary hardware, then maybe 4- by 8-feet ceiling tiles are the answer for you. These large panels will provide the coverage and appearance you want with very little money or effort.
Instructions
1. Lay out the drop cloth and have your assistant help you stack the panels face up on the cloth. Be sure to keep the edges of the panels even on all sides all of the way up the stack. Use your tape measure to determine the middle of the ceiling and place a mark on that spot sharp point marker.
2. Hold the first panel against the ceiling just to the right of the center mark. Check for protrusions, measure them from the wall and from the center line, and record the measurement on the back of a panel for reference. Transfer the protrusion measurement onto the face of your panel, make the outline a half-inch larger than the actual obstruction, and cut the opening with your keyhole saw. Cut off the end or side of your panel if necessary for proper fit by laying the "T" square into place on the side or end of the panel and cutting off the scrap with your razor knife. Always make saw and knife cuts from the facing of the panel.
3. Apply an ample amount of construction adhesive to the back of the panel to be installed. Place a bead 2 inches from each edge, including cutouts. Place a crisscross grid of beads all over the back connecting the edge beads. Lift the panel into place and push against the ceiling to press all of the glue flat into the surface above.
4. Continue to measure, mark, and place the remaining panels to cover the entire ceiling. Continue to make your cutouts a half-inch larger than the protrusions in the ceiling. Allow the adhesive to cure for one hour before continuing.
5. Caulk around the edges of all of the panels and around each protrusion. Apply a bead of caulk and wipe it smooth with your finger. Keep your caulk gun and hands clean with a wet rag while caulking to ensure a uniform job. Allow the caulk to cure for one hour. Dispose of scrap properly. Enjoy your new ceiling.
Tags: with your, against ceiling, back panel, Ceiling Panels, ceiling tiles, cure hour
If you have an outdated chandelier hanging around, cover it up with an easy to make chandelier shade. This is an inexpensive alternative to replacing the light fixture and requires no wiring. You can customize your chandelier shade to match your existing decor for a clean, neat look. This project takes about two hours and costs less than you'd pay for even a cheap new fixture.
Instructions
1. Decide whether you want a clear glass look, a fabric shade or stained glass look. Choose a shape that you want the shades to be. Most people believe that you only have one choice, but it's almost unlimited when you begin to investigate frames.
2. Purchase the size and shape of frames that you want to use. You can find frames for a lampshade, which work well for chandeliers, at craft shops.
3. Cover the frame that you chose. You can use fabric, choose to make a stained glass look or even use inexpensive plastic sheeting. If you use solid plastic sheeting or a stained glass look, cut out the shape or the opening on the frame.
4. Make the cover of fabric. Measure the distance around the frame and the height. Iron on backing to your favorite fabric so the material is stiff. Glue the fabric to the lamp with a glue gun. To make the frame more secure use an overlapping stitches at the top and bottom of the frame. Trim with complementary cotton tape along the edge.
5. Bejewel the frame. Use dangly beads and crystals to hang from the bottom of the shade. The light reflection is dramatic.
6. Get exotic. You can use any type of fabric to cover the shade. Leopard skin fake fur creates the jungle look. Fun tiki prints or shells on the shade put you in Polynesia. Let your imagination be your guide. A good glue gun allows you to make any choice.
An acoustic ceiling is an architectural element that helps to minimize noise levels within a space by absorbing and blocking sound. It is available in both sprayed and tile versions. Sprayed acoustic ceilings can make a home look dated, while tiled versions lower the height of a room. Fortunately, both types of acoustic ceiling are fairly simple to remove, though they each require hard work and proper planning.
Preparation
Before you try to remove a popcorn ceiling, determine when it was installed. Ceilings installed before 1980 may contain asbestos, a hazardous substance, which can cause serious respiratory diseases if released into the air. If your ceiling was built before 1980, do not attempt to remove it without consulting an asbestos abatement contractor. There is no safe way to perform this task without using highly specialized equipment, and it is illegal to remove asbestos on your own in many states. If your home was built after 1980, you can safely remove these ceilings without fear of asbestos.
Removing Popcorn Ceilings
To remove a sprayed acoustic ceiling, often known as a popcorn or orange peel ceiling, start by protecting the room from dust and damage. Cover walls and floors with sheets of plastic taped together tightly at the seams. Add a second layer of plastic to receptacles and air vents.
Use a spray bottle or garden hose to spray water on your ceiling and saturate the finish. Allow the water to soak in for a few minutes, then use a putty knife to scrape away the acoustic covering until you reach the drywall below. Try to avoid damaging the drywall as you work. Repeat this process until all material has been removed. Finish by patching and sanding the drywall to create a smooth surface, then paint as desired.
Remove an Acoustic Tile Ceiling
Acoustic tile ceilings are made from metal grid and gypsum tiles. Start by pressing the tiles up into the grid so you can tilt and remove them. Turn off the electricity, then disconnect and remove any light fixtures in the ceiling. Cap any wires with wire nuts for safety. Cut the wires that are holding the tee's (short ) of the grid in place, then unsnap each section of grid from the mains (longer metal sections). Cut and remove any existing wires then remove the mains. Unscrew the fasteners that were used to hold the wires to the ceiling, and use a hammer or pry bar to remove ceiling molding from around the perimeter of the room. Sand and paint the ceiling to complete the project.
Tags: acoustic ceiling, Acoustic tile, Acoustic tile ceilings, before 1980, metal sections
Use a 6-inch trowel for the initial application of compound.
Drywall panels, installed over wall studs and ceiling joists, provide a smooth surface when installed and taped out correctly. The panels are heavy and unwieldy, however, so you'll need at least one strong assistant. By using the same tools drywall professionals use, and by following some basic taping techniques, you can minimize the risk of imperfections and enjoy a seamless wall surface.
Instructions
Install the Panels
1. Use the fewest number of panels for the fewest seams. Drywall panels are 4 feet wide, but they come in lengths from 8 to 14 feet. By installing larger sheets, you will have fewer seams.
2. Cut drywall panels so they fit from the center of one dimensional stud to the center of another dimensional stud. Professionals call this, "breaking on center," and it allows two drywall panels to share one stud.
3. Hang drywall on the ceiling before you hang it on the walls. That way, you can push the wall panels tightly against the panels on the ceiling for a smooth seam.
4. Use a drywall lift to hang ceiling panels. The lift holds and hoists the panel into place, but you'll still have to adjust the panel by hand and fit it snugly against the adjacent panel to reduce joint size.
5. Install drywall panels as tightly together as possible. Wide joints are more likely to result in a wall imperfection later.
6. Insert a drywall screw through the panel into a stud, about every 8 to 10 inches on the edges of the panel and in the middle of the panel where a stud lies beneath. The heads of the drywall screws should be slightly beneath the surface of the panel, but not so deep that they tear the protective panel paper. This is called "dimpling."
Tape Out the Panels
7. Use paper drywall tape instead of fiberglass tape. Fiberglass tape is easier to use, but it's also thicker, making it more likely that you'll see a seam later.
8. Apply the first coat of wet joint compound to seams with a 6-inch taping knife. Press the compound into the joint and smooth away excess.
9. Cut paper tape a couple of inches shorter than the joint you're taping. Stick it on top of the wet joint compound, smoothing it into place with the trowel.
10. Use a wider, 10-inch knife to feather out the edges of the wet compound, and to remove any obvious excess compound. Let the wall dry completely.
11. Sand over the seams with a drywall pole sander to remove dried ridges and smooth the joints before adding another coat of wet joint compound over the taped the 10-inch knife. Smooth out the mud and let the wall dry again before sanding thoroughly.
The addition of a half bath to a home has been shown to increase resale value as much as $20,000, according to a report in This Old House magazine. Instead of leading guests through private rooms, up stairs or through an unkempt den or kitchen to the bathroom, you can install a half bath off a hallway or main gathering room. Because it doesn't require a shower or tub but merely a sink and a toilet, a half bath can fit into a narrow space in your home's nooks and crannies.
Instructions
1. Choose a space in the home for your . It should accommodate the comfortable use of a toilet and sink, the placement of a door (swinging in or out or as a pocket or sliding door), and plumbing (water and waste lines). Spaces as small and narrow as 3 feet by 4 feet or as long and narrow as 3 feet by 6 feet can work. Look for areas behind or next to plumbing walls in kitchens or below, and above or in close proximity to other bathrooms. This can save money when you install bathroom fixtures.
2. Draw a floor plan on paper of the space available for the half bathroom. Measure the space to obtain accurate dimensions of its width, length and height. Include the locations of any doors and windows already in place. Working with existing features may save money but can also limit the size of fixtures and movement in the space. So you might have to remove a door that will get in the way, for example.
3. Use the floor plan to decide the best location for the toilet and sink. Use drawing templates containing toilets and sinks for quick placement of these fixtures onto the drawing. Consider their placement in conjunction with available plumbing-water and waste lines.
4. Decide the placement of electrical outlets, an exhaust fan and lighting fixtures-both overhead and decorative. Decide where to put accessories such as a tissue holder, hand towel rack, and grab bars for visitors who are elderly or have disabilities.
5. Find the fixtures to use in the newly designed space. Use the dimensions available in the drawing to choose fixtures that will fit into the final bathroom. Choose a pedestal sink design for a more open feeling in a narrow room.
6. Choose wall and floor materials that visually correct the narrow and tight feeling in the space. Floor tiles on a diagonal make a room feel wider. Light, airy paint colors or colors from the cool palette (light blue, lavender, sage green) make walls recede visually. Mirrors will make the space seem larger.
PVC ceiling tiles can be painted to resemble a tin ceiling.
PVC ceiling tiles offer the look of a tin ceiling without the high material costs and difficulties involved with tin ceiling tile installation. With the large variety of PVC ceiling tiles, you may find it more difficult to choose a style of tile than the actual installation. The majority of PVC tile is finished in matte white and is painted to match a real tin ceiling. Planning is key to successfully installing PVC ceiling tiles in your home.
Instructions
1. Set up a step ladder. Move around the room, removing loose paint and debris from the ceiling with a metal paint scraper.
2. Tack the end of a chalk line in one corner of the ceiling with a thumb tack. Move the ladder to the corner across the room, hold the chalk line in the corner and snap the line across the ceiling. Move the chalk line to the other corner and repeat the process to create an "X" across the ceiling.
3. Measure the distance from the wall to the center of the "X" with a tape measure.
4. Move the step ladder to one end of the room. Measure off the wall you measured the distance to the "X." Place a mark on the ceiling at the dimension you measured with a carpenter's pencil. Move to the other end of the room and repeat the process.
5. Tack the end of the to one of the carpenter's pencil mark with a thumb tack. Move to the other pencil mark, align the chalk line with the other pencil mark and snap a line dividing the room in half.
6. Pour contact cement into the paint roller pan.
7. Roll contact adhesive onto the back of the PVC ceiling tiles and the marked ceiling with a 4-inch paint roller.
8. Align one edge of the glued PVC ceiling tile with the pencil line. Press the tile against the ceiling to stick the tile in place. Move along the pencil line, pressing the PVC ceiling tiles in place.
9. Continue attaching the tiles until you reach a point that you need to cut the tiles.
10. Measure the distance from the edge of the last row of tile to the wall.
11. Cut the PVC tiles to length with a utility knife. Glue and press the tiles into place as described earlier.
Blue and gold is soothing. Think of a beach with the soft blue waves gently foaming on the gold sand, or a meadow of gold grass in the autumn with the blue sky above. Make your blue and gold curtains the inspiration for your living room decor. Add paint, curtains, fabrics and accessories for a complete look. Finish with flowers, plants and candles.
Instructions
1. Paint the walls a very pale shade of gold to pick up the gold in the curtains. Paint looks different in a home than at the store on a paint chip. Select several shades of gold. Paint a broad stroke of each color on each wall. Observe how the color changes in bright sunlight, by the curtains, and in the evening. Choose the color you like the best.
2. Take a photo of the curtains. A swatch of fabric is better but curtains don't often come with extra fabric. Most curtains are too long to take along with you. Use the photo to choose the sofa and chairs. Pick upholstered furniture that picks up the non-dominant color of the curtains. For example, if the curtains have a dark blue background with gold fleur de lis, then a gold or beige sofa and chair would bring out the gold in the curtains.
3. Put three, large, blue, 18-inch square pillows equal distance apart on the sofa. Fill the spaces in between the large pillows with smaller pillows in a lighter shade of blue. Prints are fine if they're the same scale as the print in the curtains. Put smaller matching pillows on the chairs.
4. Place a bronze metal and glass coffee table in front of the sofa. The bronze pulls out the gold in the curtains. Add bronze-based lamps to other tables in the room for additional lighting. Place a vase of yellow flowers on the table surrounded by vanilla scented candles.
5. Frame artwork in bronze frames with blue matting. Spray paint the frames if you can't afford new ones.
6. Create a focal point for the room with green plants. Place a large palm tree, corn plant or other tall plant that's from 5 to 6 feet tall in the center of the grouping. Put two shorter plants about 3 to 4 feet high on either side of the center plant. Fill in with plants from 2 to 3 feet high. Coordinate the plant pots so they match. Bronze or blue would work well. Put an uplight on either side of the tall plant so the light plays off the leaves.
Tags: gold curtains, either side, feet high, from feet, tall plant, with blue
Ceiling tiles are a great way to redo a ceiling and to brighten a room. The installation process is quick and relatively easy. If you are remodeling an older house, ceiling tiles are a good choice to install in rooms with uneven walls and/or ceilings.
Instructions
Prepare to Install
1. Measure opposite walls of your room in inches. Add 12 inches. Divide this number by two. The number you arrive at is the width of the border tile. Jot it down. Repeat the process for the other two walls.
2. Purchase the ceiling tiles. Tiles usually come in 12x12 inch squares or 12x24 inch rectangles. Purchase your other supplies while you are at the lumberyard.
3. Determine which way the ceiling joists run. Nail the first furring strip perpendicular to the joists along one wall. Put two eight penny nails into the furring strip at each joist. Butt the ends of the furring strip together to create a strip along one wall.
4. Make sure the furring strips are level. Place shims between the furring strip and the ceiling if necessary.
5. Nail the next furring strip 12 inches on center parallel to the first furring strip. Continue this process until you come to the opposite wall. Nail a furring strip parallel to that wall as well.
6. Set the open boxes of ceiling tiles in the room at least 24 hours before you begin to install them. This gives them a chance to acclimate to the room.
Install the Ceiling Tiles
7. Start in one corner. Cut the corner border piece to fit. Square it.
8. Mark the starting square on the furring strip. Make sure the flanged edges point toward the center of the room. Use a staple gun to attach the corner tile.
9. Put up the next tile along the border. Staple it in place. Now place a ceiling tile on the other leg of the corner. Staple it.
10. Set the first full ceiling tile in place. Butt it in place next to the three tiles already in place.
11. Continue to work from both angles of the corner and out into the room. Cover the entire ceiling with ceiling tiles. Nail the last row of ceiling tile directly to the furring strip if the staple gun doesn't reach into that tight of a spot.
12. Measure and cut the molding strips to fit. Stain the strips. Use the miter box and saw to miter the corner pieces. Use the finishing nails to nail the molding into place.
Tags: furring strip, ceiling tile, along wall, ceiling tiles, first furring,
Suspended ceilings are a type of architectural design element used in commercial and residential buildings. They are created using metal grid systems, which are suspended below the ceiling or roof deck using a series of wires. The grid is then filled in with ceiling tiles, which are primarily made from mineral fiber blends. These ceilings provide easy access for maintenance, and come in a variety of styles to meet the needs of any builder.
Exposed Grid
Exposed grid varieties are the most common type of suspended ceiling. They consist of long metal strips, called "mains," which are interconnected with shorter metal pieces known as "tees." Together, the mains and tees form a grid system of 2' by 2' or 2' by 4' squares, which are then filled with acoustical ceiling tiles. These exposed grid systems feature a standard 15/16" wide metal frame around each tile, though wider and narrower versions are also available.
Concealed Grid
Concealed grid systems use the acoustical tiles to hide the grid system from view. This creates a smooth, clean look that many find to be aesthetically pleasing. The tile used in a concealed system has a small groove built into it's perimeter, which slides over the mains and tees to cover them. This type of system is more expensive than an exposed system, and can make it difficult for maintenance personnel to access areas above the ceiling.
Bandraster
Bandraster systems are one of the most versatile types of suspended ceilings. They are comprised of metal tees and mains of varying lengths, which can be used to form a variety of patterns. These systems are often used by building owners who want to create a certain look with their ceiling, as they can be arranged in many different ways. Bandraster ceilings require the use of specially-sized tile to fit within the unique grid patterns.
Suspended Drywall Ceilings
Some suspended ceiling systems do not require the use of metal grid, and instead use wires and hangers to suspend sheets of drywall below the ceiling. These systems are an easier alternative to the extensive framing and hat channel that are typically required to create drywall arches or ceiling structures. Flat sheets of suspended drywall or panels may also be hung below ceiling level to provide acoustical or aesthetic benefits .
Types of Tile
There are a number of choices when it comes to choosing tile for suspended ceiling systems. Buyers can choose from tile that is highly textured, or perfectly smooth. While off-white tile is the most common, a number of other colors are available, as well as tiles printed with designs and patterns. In hospitals and clean room settings, mold and mildew resistant tile may be used. Finally, tile is often chosen for its level of acoustic absorption, especially in schools and other large commercial applications.
Changing a bathroom light can be as simple or difficult as you want to make it. There are a ton of variables, most notably the size of the light fixture you are replacing compared to the size of the light fixture you are installing.
Instructions
1. Start by removing the old light fixture. You'll want to cut around the edge of the light with the exacto-knife. Try not to dig the knife in to the wall. This will help eliminate any wall damage due to paint sticking to the old fixture.
2. Turn off the power. Go to your circuit breaker box and find the power supply for the bathroom you are going work in. This is vitally important as you don't want to electrocute yourself while removing the old fixture or attaching the new one. If you can't find the exact circuit breaker, turn off the main circuit breaker. Just remember that this shuts off all power to the house so things like refrigerators will not have power while you replace the light.
3. Remove the screws, bolt and other hardware that affixes the old light to the wall or ceiling. Once you've been able to pull the fixture clean away from the wall, the wiring should come out with it to some extent. Don't pull too hard as you don't want to damage the wiring.
4. Undo the wiring. There should be three separate lines per fixture; a red; a black; and a green which is the ground. You'll most likely need to disconnect the wire nuts (wire connectors). Once this is done, you can now remove the old fixture.
5. Reattach the wiring to your new fixture; red to red, black to black, and there should be a ground connection on the fixture to attach the green. Use the wire nuts (wire connectors) to put the wires together so that they won't come apart.
6. Place the fixture to the wall where you want to install it. Hopefully, you are just going to put a new fixture up over the previous hole left by the old fixture. If not, you have some major rewiring to do, and that's a whole new topic for discussion. Once, you put the new light up, you'll want to mark on the wall where your hardware goes. If you have studs behind the wall where the hardware is, that's a bonus. If not you'll have to use wall anchors to hold your light to the wall.
7. Screw the mounting hardware to the wall and make sure that the light is firmly held. Turn on your circuit breaker and then your switch to make sure that power is going in to the light. If the light doesn't come on, you may not have hooked the electrical up correctly. You'll have to cut the power and pull the light back down. Reconnect the wiring and then try it again.
Many people want to convert their garages into workshops or an extra living space. However, unlike houses, garages are rarely insulated. Follow these steps to prepare your garage for year-round use in any climate.
Instructions
Insulate Exposed Walls
1. Place insulation in between 2" x 4" wall studs. The insulation should be attached to the 2" x 4" studs with the insulation facing away and the paper side visible.
2. Staple paper edges to the 2" x 4" studs every 12 inches.
3. Cut insulation to fit, using a sharp and a straightedge. Make sure there are no gaps in the insulation.
4. Repeat for each gap.
5. Pull vapor seal plastic film tight and staple at least every 12 inches. Start at the top of one corner of the garage.
6. Overlap the sheets by one complete cavity, working around the entire room.
7. Trim out the plastic from over windows, doors and electrical boxes using utility knife.
8. Staple around the windows, doors and electrical boxes to ensure a tight vapor seal.
Insulate Walls That Have Been Drywalled
9. Drill a small hole in the drywall between the studs at the top of the wall.
10. Blow insulation into gap, using slow-curing foam or fiberglass insulation. There are many makes and models of insulation blowers. Follow the manufacturer's directions at all times.
11. Repeat for each gap, moving around the room.
Seal Windows and Doors
12. Insert caulk tube into caulk gun.
13. Snip off tip of caulk tube with a utility knife.
14. Gently squeeze caulk gun handle as you move along the seam of each area. Apply caulk around all window and door frames.
Decorate your teen's bathroom to reflect her personality and interests. Use bold color combinations to infuse the space with whimsy. Use just one bright hue or combine several for a lively look. Decorate around a specific design theme, such as Parisian or island-inspired, or simply use color combinations as a starting point. If you're revamping the teen's bathroom on a budget, use paint and inexpensive d cor pieces that pack a punch for less, such as colorful shower curtains and towels.
Instructions
1. Paint the bathroom walls. Pick a vibrant hue to coordinate with a d cor theme, such as bright pink for a princess-inspired Parisian look or coral for tropical appeal.
2. Decorate with an eye-catching shower curtain, which will become the focal point of the room. Hang a bright pink, white and black polka-dotted curtain from poodle-shaped hooks. Suspend a turquoise shower curtain featuring colorful tropical fish designs from seashell-inspired hooks.
3. Hang bright pink and white towels from poodle-inspired wall hooks. Roll turquoise and coral towels and display them in an island-inspired rattan or wicker basket.
4. Choose bathroom accessories that are both decorative and convenient. Store essentials such as cotton swabs and balls in white ceramic canisters featuring black poodle and Eiffel Tower designs. Choose a resin soap dish, lotion dispenser and tissue box cover set featuring vibrant tropical fish designs.
5. Incorporate one scene-stealing piece into the design. Hang a chandelier featuring clear plastic or glass drops from the ceiling to accentuate a trendy Parisian style. Display a mirror featuring a seashell-encrusted frame above the sink or a vanity table.
Tags: bright pink, teen bathroom, bright pink white, color combinations, fish designs
A coffer refers to the appearance of a sunken panel in a ceiling. Typically, in a modern home a coffered ceiling treatment is applied to give the visual appearance of coffering. Sometimes these types of coffers are made of faux beams or even plaster. Frequently they are trimmed out with moldings to enhance the formality and detail of their appearance and it is common for the recessed paneled coffers to be painted in a different color from the decorative beams.
Function
Ancient coffers were often the result of structural needs, as support beams they were used to move ceiling loads outward on wider spans. These beams created an architectural appearance that is also quite visually appealing. Coffers were frequently used under large domes to help carry the load of the domes and the mathematics necessary to calculate the exact dimensions of the coffers required the assistance of mathematicians.
Identification
The term coffer comes from cofre in Old French, meaning basketlike or boxlike. A coffer mounted under a cupola is called a caisson and a series of coffers (openings or boxes) can line the underside of any surface and, when they are collected in a series, they are called laquearia (a group of boxes).
Sound Effects
Peter Arsenault, sound expert with Pro Sound News, rates the Grosser Musikvereinsaal in Vienna as one of the best concert halls in the world and he is not alone. Also known as the Golden Hall, this building dates to 1870. It seats 1744 people with room for 300 more to stand. Overhead, a coffered ceiling spans the hall. For centuries no one has been able to explain why the acoustics are so good in this building.
In a 2005 Forum Acusticum article by Martin Lisa, et.al, an experimental reconstruction of Ancient Roman Odea (roofed theaters) and their acoustics discovered that the use of coffered ceilings in theatrical halls produced similar acoustic properties to modern concert halls, even though the only sound absorption was provided by the audience. This modeling study calculated how the coffering impacted the sound levels over wide spaces.
Features
Coffered ceilings have become popular additions to modern classic or traditional style homes. The most frequently used style is still a symmetrical boxlike pattern although other shapes are also used, such as octagonal or curved, and some ceilings incorporate several different coffer styles or shapes in a single ceiling. The coffer is often ornamented with dart and bead trims and, in some elaborate applications, plaster or plaster-appearing medallions and ornamentation are also applied.
Benefits
Occasionally a coffered ceiling will mask or hide real, load-bearing beams, much as its ancient ancestor did. Sometimes the unfortunate interruption of a flat ceiling by a necessary structural beam will become the motivation to turn what might be an unsightly intrusion into an architectural feature. In this regard, the secondary beams are false in the sense that they are not designed to carry the load merely to look like the beam that is doing the work. The results are often striking.
Wooden baseboard trim can create a true finished look for a room. These pieces run in straight planks that generally measure around 3 inches high and 3/8 inch thick, and they form the barrier between your flooring and the end of the wall. Installing this trim can cause trouble when the wall on which it will be installed proves uneven. Installing the straight planks against the uneven wall often leaves unsightly gaps. You can fill these gaps by bending the trim or sealing the areas with caulk to create the finished style you desire for your home.
Instructions
Glue
1. Cut the trim to the appropriate length for your wall. Hold the trim up to the wall as if it were installed and take note of each gap between the wall and the trim. If you have multiple gaps, consider marking the areas with light pencil so that you can keep track.
2. Cut a 4-inch long piece of scrap baseboard with a saw. Angle each end of the piece at 45 degrees. This piece will serve as a bracer to hold the trim in place while it molds to the uneven wall. You will need a bracer for each gap between the wall and trim.
3. Line the bottom and top of the construction adhesive. Line the trim up with the corner of the wall as straight as you can. Nail the trim to the wall, using a nail gun or hammer to install nails every 6 inches along the trim, or wherever you have studs in your wall. The adhesive will be exposed in the gapped areas.
4. Use brads or tacks to secure the bracers to the gapped areas of the trim. Set the other side of the bracers against the floor so that pressure from the bracer pushes the trim firmly against the wall, closing the gap. Tack the bottom of the bracers to the floor in the appropriate places and allow the adhesive to dry overnight.
5. Remove the tacks from the bracers. Because of the constant pressure from the bracers, the adhesive will have dried to secure the trim to the walls. The tacks will leave small holes in the trim.
6. Fill in tack holes, as well as the visible nail heads, with small beads of caulk. Apply caulk over the holes and wipe away excess with your finger or a moist rag before it has time to dry.
Caulk
7. Add premium acrylic latex caulk to a caulk gun. This type of caulk will create a firm and reliable barrier, and you can paint the caulk to match the wall.
8. Line the trim up with the corner of the wall as straight as you can. Nail the trim to the wall, using a nail gun or hammer to install nails every 6 inches along the trim, or wherever you have studs in . With the trim installed, you will be able to see the gaps between the trim and uneven wall.
9. Snip a 1/8 inch hole in the spout of the caulk. Squeeze caulk into all gaps between the trim and the walls. Wipe away excess caulk with a damp rag. Allow the caulk to dry overnight, sealing the gaps.
10. Cover over the visible nail heads with small beads of caulk. Apply caulk over the holes and wipe away excess with your finger or a moist rag before it has time to dry.
11. Paint the caulk sealant on the top of the trim to match your walls, hiding your repair work.
Tags: away excess, , trim with, uneven wall, your wall, adhesive will
The right drilling equipment makes installing ceiling fixtures simpler.
In order to install ceiling fixtures such as fans and lights in a wooden ceiling, holes must be made in the ceiling material in order to run electrical wires. Without drilling holes in the ceiling before attaching a fixture, there is no way to run power to it. For this reason, it is imperative that the holes be drilled in the exact place you plan to mount the fixture to ensure that the electrical wires can be connected.
Instructions
1. Set up your ladder under the place you want to drill the hole. Make sure the ladder is situated firmly on the ground and is not wobbly -- this is important for your safety while on the ladder.
2. Put on your safety glasses.
3. Prepare your drill by attaching the wooden auger drill bit.
4. Climb the ladder with the drill in your hand and make sure that you are securely balanced on the ladder.
5. Place the tip of the drill bit on the ceiling in the spot marked as the center of the hole. Begin drilling a pilot hole to act as a guide for the hole saw. Focus carefully; since you are drilling overhead, you need to apply more pressure than usual to the drill to penetrate the wooden ceiling. Maintain your balance while drilling.
6. Climb down off the ladder, remove the wooden auger drill bit, and attach the hole saw drill bit.
7. Climb the ladder with the drill in your hand and make sure that you are securely balanced on the ladder.
8. Place the tip of the hole saw drill bit into the pilot hole that you just drilled and begin drilling. Apply gentle pressure to the drill to penetrate the wooden ceiling and make the bit bore in straight. Brace yourself to feel dust and filings fall onto your face and head; do not attempt to wipe these away while working on the ladder.
Care must be taken when storing panels prior to installing them in order to protect them from moisture.
Paneling is used to cover a wood-framed structure of a home or building. It's usually made of plywood or a similar-grade wood. Paneling is installed as panels that look like thin rectangular sheets, which are either nailed or screwed to a frame. Problems with the panels buckling are possible under certain conditions.
Moisture
According to TECO, a building supplier, moisture is one of the most common problems associated with wood structuralpanels buckling. As the panel's moisture content increases from exposure to rain or snow, it causes the panels to expand. The expansion is manifested in the panel warping, twisting and buckling. This issue generally occurs before the panels are installed, when preconstruction materials are left outside and are exposed to the elements. Panels must be acclimated to their environment prior to installation to allow time for the wood to adjust to the temperature and structural conditions.
Poor Structural Design
A building with a poorly designed structure can also cause panels to buckle. A roof structure is apt to expand in cold weather when it does not have adequate ventilation in the attic. Inadequate ventilation allows moisture to build up in the attic space, which can affect the panels and cause them to become misshaped. Fortunately, panels that buckle under these circumstances can normally be fixed.
Inadequate Panel Spacing
Proper installation of panels requires adequate spacing to accommodate for normal wood expansion. When panels are placed too closely together, they can buckle when they expand. According to TECO, many panel manufacturers suggest leaving at least an 1/8-inch space around the outside of the panel in order to allow for expansion.
Tags: According TECO, panels buckling, panels that, wood structural
A drop ceiling is composed of a metal grid and ceiling panels. They can be installed in a variety of spaces, including basements laundry rooms or any space where you would like to conceal faults with the existing ceiling or even add a layer for sound control. Also called suspended ceilings, they are an efficient and cost-effective remodeling alternative. Take time to plan you installation and make sure that you follow the manufacturer's instruction for installation.
Preparation
You can make the job of estimating the material for you drop ceiling by sketching the dimensions of the space on graphing paper and getting the material salesmen to help you figure out the materials. There are basically two choices for you ceilings: 2 by 2 foot panels and 2 by 4 panels. The 2 by 4 panels can be installed in a standard or reverse pattern. Each pattern presents a different look.
Start by sketching the main tees 4 feet apart. You'll need to calculate where to situate the cross tees so the panels around the edge of the room are of equal size. Make the panels as large as possible. Try working with multiple layouts to determine which configuration looks the best. If you decide to go with 2x4 panels, you need to position the 4-foot cross tees 2 feet apart. If you are using the 2x2 layouts, position the 2-foot cross tees at the midpoint of the 4-foot cross tees.
For a recessed ceiling, with built-in lighting installed, locate where the light panels will be situated. Indicate the light panels clearly on your drawing. Use your sketch to help you accurately estimated the material you'll need to complete the project and refer to it throughout the installation process.
Installation
Make a decision on the height of the drop ceiling. Make sure there is at least 3 feet of space between the old ceiling and the new suspended ceiling. Use fiberglass ceiling panels if you do not have adequate clearance; they have more flexibility. Recessed lighting will require more clearance. Once you have the exact height established for the installation, take your level and use a marker to draw lines on the walls where you will install the wall angles.
It's important to use your level for accuracy, don't depend on the original ceiling being level. Install the wall angles so that it covers as many pipes, ducts and other items you will like to conceal. Position the wall angles on the line that you drew. Secure the angles in studs or use the appropriate fasteners for brick or masonry walls. Install the wiring for any recessed lighting before you start placing your suspension wire.
Install main tees so that they run at right angles to the ceiling joists. Use a guide string to indicate the position of the main tees. Extend a string from the top edge of the wall angle to the other side at each position for the tees. Cut the suspension wire approximately 1 foot longer than the height between the old ceiling and the guide string.
Place the first suspension wire for each tee at precisely the location where the first cross tee connects to the main tee. Remember, the position of the cross tees depends on the size of the panels you will be using. Use nails, screw eyes or screw hooks to securely attach the suspension wires to the existing ceiling about every 4 feet along your guide lines.
Install the ceiling panels by tilting each panel and lifting it above the suspension apparatus. Drop the panel into place.
Installing an overhead light in the bedroom is a relatively simple task, as long as you are replacing an existing light or there is outlet for an overhead light. Changing the light can change the look of the whole room. For the most part, modern lighting systems install in exactly the same way. The one issue you have to watch out for is that your new light is at least as large at the base as your old light, so that you don't have to retouch the ceiling paint.
Instructions
1. Turn off electricity to the existing light fixture at the wall switch and at the house fuse or circuit breaker box.
2. Remove the screws that holding the existing fixture to the ceiling. Lower the fixture, so you can disconnect the wires above it. Remove the fixture completely, leaving an exposed electrical box in the ceiling with three exposed wires hanging from it: a black insulated wire, a white insulated wire, and a bare copper ground wire.
3. Hold the installation bracket that came with the new light up to the electrical box, lining up the holes for the provided screws. Secure the bracket to the box using the screws.
4. Twist the copper grounding wire around the green grounding screw on the installation bracket. Tighten the screw.
5. Set the new light fixture near the box, on top of your ladder. Hold the white wire from the light next to the white wire from the box and twist a wire nut over the ends of both of them at once, covering all exposed parts of the wires.
6. Link the black wire from the light and the black wire from the box in the same way and secure with a wire nut.
7. Hold the light up to the box, while tucking the two wire connections into it. Secure the light fixture to the electrical box with the screws that came with the light. Turn on the electricity.
Tags: wire from, light fixture, black wire, black wire from, came with, came with light, existing light
When decorating a bathroom door, it is important to keep practicality in mind. For example, you wouldn't want to hang framed photos or a mirror on a bathroom door. Although these items do look nice (and full-length mirrors can be acceptable), bathrooms are heavy-traffic areas, with the door constantly opening and closing. Instead, opt for a useful decoration that not only looks beautiful and matches existing décor, but also serves a purpose. Furthermore, another great accent to add beauty to a bathroom is by giving the door an interesting cherry blossom-inspired paint effect.
Instructions
Paint Effect
1. Choose a neutral paint color that is only a few shades darker or lighter than the paint already on the door. For example, if you have a cream door, purchase a light beige. The second shade should be the "pop" that infuses a punch of color when the door is closed. Choose cool colors like dusky blue and soft violet for cool-toned bathrooms and warm colors like cranberry and pomegranate for warm-toned bathrooms.
2. Dip the medium brush into the neutral paint; then position the brush tip at the foot of the door about a quarter of the way across the bottom.
3. Bring the brush up slowly, rolling it between your fingers the entire way. The line should go up straight about a foot, then begin to move diagonal, tapering at the end. Stop when you reach about 6 inches from the top of the door. This line should emulate a thin tree trunk.
4. Repeat Step 3 with the small brush, but instead of beginning at the foot of the door, create twisty lines that branch off the main line and taper at the end. These will emulate branches on a tree. Let dry.
5. Dip the textured sponge into the "pop" paint color. Do not soak the sponge. Wipe off any excess on a paper towel.
6. Lightly press the sponge on varying areas of the branches, focusing on the ends. The sponge marks should get smaller as they reach the tapered end of the branches. These will emulate small, puffed flowers.
Hardware
7. Decide what style of door hardware you want for your bathroom. Stainless steel and acrylic are great for modern bathrooms, while brass, wood and crystal look attractive in traditionally-styled bathrooms.
8. Position the towel rack or hook on the inside of the door. Use the level to ensure the rack or hook is positioned parallel to the floor. Mark the areas where the screws will go with the pencil.
9. Choose a drill bit that is slightly smaller than the screws in the towel rack or hook kit. These kits will often come with screws, plugs and sometimes mollies.
10. Drill a hole on the pencil marks. Be cautious when drilling through a hollow door; it is very easy to punch through to the outside of the door.
11. Hammer the mollies into the drill holes. Do not use too much force; the mollies provided in hardware kits are often plastic and bend easily. If you have hardwood doors, skip this step.
12. Screw the fixture into place. If using mollies, the holes of the fixture should be positioned directly over the molly hole; then the screw should be drilled into the molly hole. Ensure the screw is drilled straight.
Is that tacky, outmoded fake-wood paneling making you stir-crazy? Relax. You can make that paneled room look less like a box and more like a living space with a simple coat of paint. Before you start, there are things you need to know. This fact sheet will help you select the right kind of primer and paint before you begin.
Surface Preparation
Clean and sand the paneling first.Then apply a latex-based primer that will cut the gloss of the paneling's surface.
Types
After the priming step, the sky's the limit. You can paint your paneling with any wall paint. Satin finishes go well on paneled walls. Latex paints work the best.
Considerations
Don't take a shortcut by skipping the primer coat. It will cut the gloss on the paneled surface, make your chosen paint adhere better and prevent the wood grain from showing through your final coat of paint.
Tips
Applying drywall mud or another groove filler will make your final effect look more like a painted wall than a painted box. Follow the directions on the container, apply, sand smooth, and then apply your primer coat.
Special Areas
If you're painting paneling in an area that is subject to moisture, like in a kitchen or bathroom, use a paint that is formulated to resist moisture and the growth of mold. High-traffic areas will benefit from a paint that is washable to remove hand prints.
Tags: coat paint, Kind Paint, Kind Paint Paint, make your, more like
Cottage cheese ceiling tiles may discolor, show stains or simply look dingy as they begin to age. The tiles are often used for acoustical purposes; the tiles are constructed from foam-like material that absorbs sound and echoes in a room. Brighten up tile by adding a coat of white paint to the surface for a refreshing makeover.
Instructions
1. Remove ceiling tiles, using a ladder if needed. Put on a pair of protective eyeglasses so dust and debris do not fall into eyes. Lift up on the tile, slightly turn the tile, tilt one end up at an angle and lower it from the ceiling. Remove all the tiles and lay flat on a large sheet of plastic. Leave a 2-foot walkway between the tiles.
2. Pour white latex paint into a paint tray. Use a foam roller to paint the tile. The should have small gaps every inch to conform to the texture of the cottage cheese tile. Use light, even coverage. The tiles will dry fairly quickly due to the absorbent material. Apply a second coat if necessary. Allow tiles to dry overnight before repositioning in the ceiling.
3. Replace the tile carefully. Make sure hands are clean or wear gloves when repositioning the tile. Use a brush to touch up any scuff marks or stains which may have occurred when replacing the tile. Vacuum the area to remove any crumbles or dust which may have been created.
Many factors besides square footage contribute to how small a bathroom feels, such as whether you have a pedestal sink or a vanity and how large the toilet is. The wall color of a bathroom probably makes one of the biggest differences and is one of the least expensive changes to make. Be sure to cover all surfaces before painting.
Wall Colors
Light colors make a larger. White and off-white are not the only choices. Pastel shades, especially cool colors like blue, tend to make a small bathroom look larger.
If you want to choose a more neutral shade, consider a tinted neutral--an off-white shade with a hint of another color, such as green, pink or yellow. Using a tinted neutral allows you to match a different accent color, such as a fresh green, more easily in the room, while still giving you the versatility of a neutral shade.
Ceiling Color
If you paint the ceiling a lighter color than the walls, it makes the ceiling seem higher, therefore making the room seem bigger. For instance, if you paint the walls a pastel blue, paint the ceiling white or a blue-tinted neutral. Using one color on both the walls and the ceiling helps make the room look more spacious but only if the color is very light.
Color Schemes
If you want to create a more vibrant room, try a peach shade for the majority of the wall, and accent with a brighter orange shade in the accessories.
Green and blue tend to be soothing and a medium shade of either won't make a room feel small, especially if paired with light-colored flooring.
If you want to create drama in a small bathroom, it is a good idea to use darker paints as an accent color in limited spaces, such as painting one wall scarlet. Leave the rest of the room light, especially the floor and ceiling.
Tags: small bathroom, , bathroom look, bathroom look larger, blue tend, color such, look larger
A bathroom update often comes with a hefty price tag. If your budget is limited, consider restoring the current bathroom vanity for a new look without a large investment. The current condition and finish of the vanity determines the amount of work necessary to bring it up to date. A fresh coat of paint or stain gives the vanity a new, clean look. Polishing the vanity top makes the entire piece look new again. Consider your level of comfort with these processes before beginning the project.
Instructions
1. Wipe the with a damp cloth and mild detergent. Remove any built-up dirt or grime. Rinse the vanity with a clean damp cloth.
2. Remove the hardware from the vanity. Remove the doors and hinges to make the job easier. If you plan to reuse the hardware, place it and the screws in a zip top bag to make sure nothing is lost.
3. Assess the current condition of the vanity. Determine what needs updated. Inspect the wood for splitting, holes or other damage.
4. Repair any damaged areas in the vanity. Fill in small cracks or holes with wood putty following the package directions. Allow the putty to dry fully before continuing the vanity restoration.
5. Lightly sand all the surfaces of the vanity base and doors if you are planning to paint it. Wipe away the dust with a barely damp cloth. Apply the primer and paint, allowing each layer to dry fully before moving to the next. One coat of primer and two coats of paint should produce a smooth finish. Add a third coat if necessary.
6. Strip the varnish or paint if you plan to stain or varnish the vanity. When using a chemical stripper, make sure the room is properly ventilated. Always follow the package directions exactly when working with chemicals. Apply the new stain followed by a coat of polyurethane to protect the vanity.
7. Attach the new hardware to the vanity. Reattach the doors to the piece. Test the doors and drawers to ensure proper functioning.
Tags: damp cloth, current condition, , make sure, package directions, vanity clean
Turn your ceiling fan into a swag lighting fixture
Wiring a ceiling fan so it plugs into an electrical outlet is an application used when limited ceiling access does not allow the wiring of the ceiling fan through a ceiling junction box. Obtain a swag kit at a local hardware store or lighting supply. It will include the swag cord with the plug and switch already attached, as well as the swag chain. The chain will not be necessary to hold the ceiling fan to the ceiling but is used for decoration to cover the cord.
Instructions
1. Assemble your ceiling fan according to the manufacturer's directions.
2. Wire a swag kit to the ceiling fan. Thread the swag kit cord through the swag chain. Feel the swag cord. One wire is smooth, and the other is ribbed. Connect the ribbed wire to the white wire from the ceiling fan using an orange wire connector and connect the smooth wire to the remaining two wires from the ceiling fan using a red wire connector.
3. Install the ceiling fan bracket to the ceiling joist. Use a stud finder to find the joist in the area you want to install your ceiling fan. Use 3-inch wood screws and attach the ceiling fan hanging bracket to the ceiling joists.
4. Hang the ceiling fan on the bracket and cover the bracket with a ceiling fan canopy. Make sure you leave some swag chain inside the canopy before you attach the canopy to the ceiling fan bracket. This will keep the chain and the cord from pulling from the ceiling fan.
5. Install a swag hook, if necessary, to hang your swag chain where the wall and ceiling meet. Install the hook above the electrical receptacle or as close as possible to conveniently plug in your ceiling fan.
6. Drill a pilot hole using a 3/16-inch wood drill bit and screw the swag hook into the pilot hole. Twist the hook clockwise until fully installed. If no joist is available install a toggle bolt , drill a hole in the ceiling drywall using a drill that corresponds to the size of the closed toggle. Slide the toggle bolt into the hole and hand tighten.
Tags: swag chain, your ceiling, ceiling bracket, from ceiling, swag cord, swag hook
Comprised of clean lines and sleek finishes, a modern kitchen focuses on function--as it is easy to prepare and cook food on the uncluttered surfaces. A combination of synthetic and natural materials is blended with a color palette that ranges from bold to neutral tones to make up a modern-style kitchen.
Color
The color palette in a modern kitchen ranges from bold colors to neutral tones. Hues that you may consider using with this style include red, orange, turquoise blue, emerald green, black, silver, cream and white. Your best bet is to pick a combination of two to four of these colors and incorporate them throughout the space--on the walls, on the countertops, in the flooring, for the cabinets and even in the appliances. For instance, you may choose black, silver and white for the main elements--such as the cabinets and countertops, and use one of the more bold hues in the accents to give the room a punch of color.
Countertops
Natural stone is a popular choice for countertops in a modern kitchen, as it offers a sleek, polished and clean appearance. Granite and marble are perhaps the best materials to choose when it comes to stone, as they are durable and able to stand up to the wear and tear of the heat and water exposure that kitchens bring. These stones come in a variety of colors that would work well in a modern design--such as black, gray and beige. The downside of these natural stones is that they can be costly. If you have budget constraints, ceramic tile may be a better option for you as it, too, is a durable material and comes in a variety of colors that work with a modern design. Stainless steel countertops give your kitchen a unique, state-of-the-art look.
Cabinetry
When choosing cabinets for your kitchen, clean lines are key. Light wood--such as maple or oak--is ideal. Another option is black or white laminate cabinets. Frosted or transparent glass doors that open from the bottom are attractive choices for the doors on the upper cabinets. Install long brushed nickel or stainless steel drawer pulls and cabinet handles. Floor-to-ceiling cabinets add clean, unbroken lines to the space--a key feature of modern design.
Appliances
Stainless steel appliances are currently the hottest trend in design, but black and white appliances also work well in this design. Bring in a French-door refrigerator with a bottom-mount freezer. If your kitchen requires an electric stove, install one that has a smooth top. A large vent placed over the stove serves as a focal point and gives the kitchen a professional look.
Tags: modern kitchen, clean lines, your kitchen, , , color palette
A wall sconce is installed like any other wall or ceiling light fixture, usually in place of an existing fixture on a wall (or ceiling) electrical box that's tied into the electrical circuits of your home. While only a trained electrician should install or upgrade those circuits, the average homeowner can easily install the wall sconce lighting itself. In most cases, you'll control the light from a wall switch, which doesn't have to be replaced when you add the new fixture.
Instructions
1. Cut power to the bathroom at the circuit box for the house.
2. Remove the existing light fixture from the wall electrical box, using your screwdriver to take out the screws at the base so you can access the electrical box and wires behind it. Disconnect the wires by twisting off the old wire nuts counter-clockwise. Pull the fixture free, letting the wires hang out of the box.
3. Find the mounting bracket that came with your wall sconce lighting fixture. It will be a flat metal disc or rectangular strip with screw holes in it that match the positions of the screw holes on the face of the wall electrical box. Affix the bracket to the box using the screws that came with it. The wire ends from the box should still be accessible through the bracket.
4. Locate the bare grounding wire from the electrical box and twist it around the green grounding screw on the bracket. Tighten it.
5. Position the wall sconce near the box. Connect like-color wires between the fixture and the box (white to white, black to black), twisting wire nuts over the ends of the wires clockwise to make the connections.
6. Tuck the wires into the box and hold the fixture to the mounting bracket. Affix it there with the screws included with the fixture. Insert a light bulb into the sconce and turn on the electricity.
Tags: wall sconce, , from wall, , mounting bracket
Your room has a suspended/drop ceiling. You wish to move or replace the lights mounted in the ceiling without an major remodel or expense. Depending on the type of lights you are dealing with and the location, this project should not present any major obstacles. If the lights are suspended from the framing the project can be even easier.
Instructions
1. Turn off all power to the existing lights. While this can be done at the wall switch it is highly recommended the power be turned off at the breaker panel. This will ensure the power is off and will help prevent anyone from accidentally turning the power back on before the project is complete.
2. Remove the existing lights. Use the screwdriver to disconnect the electrical wiring from the light terminals. There should be three wires, a black, white and green wire. The green wire is the ground and may be a bare copper wire. If this will be a prolonged project it is best to put wire nuts on each of the wires as they are removed. If the lights are simply clipped to the bracket, remove the clips and the lights. If the lights are mounted to brackets above the ceiling, you may remove the entire bracket or leave the portions of the brackets which will be concealed by the ceiling and remove only the lights.
3. Replace any old ceiling tiles. If the lights were mounted in the ceiling tiles and the new lights are a different size or will be mounted in a new location, remove the existing ceiling tile and replace it. If the tile is odd sized, carefully measure the opening and trim a tile to fit using the razor blade cutter. Once all tiles have been replaced you are ready to begin installing new lighting.
4. Determine the desired location for the new lighting. Check the existing wiring to see if it will reach to all of the new locations. It is against electrical codes to splice electrical wiring above a suspended ceiling. If the existing wiring will not reach the new locations new wiring will need to be installed. If the light fixtures will be wired in sequence then the power lines need to only reach the nearest light fixture.
5. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for mounting the new lights. Make the needed modifications to the ceiling tiles and connect all wiring. Double check your wiring connections before closing up the ceiling tiles. Be aware, electrical code does not allow electrical wiring to be supported by the same support wires used to hold up the ceiling. Wiring also should not be laid atop a suspended ceiling; it should be supported above it. Turn on the breaker and test all lights to be certain they are working as desired.
Ceiling medallions give a touch of fancy elegance to plain rooms. Sometimes they're used as a base for light fixtures, or are merely included in the architectural design of the ceiling. Either way, if you've got an artistic side and you think that the trumpets that those angels in the medallion are blowing should painted gold-leaf instead of the same plain white as the rest of the thing, you should go for it. The beauty of this project is that if you don't like the results, you can just re-paint the whole thing white and start from scratch.
Instructions
1. Lay a tarp on the floor under the medallion. Set your ladder up to reach the medallion. With your painter's tape and newspaper, tape off the wall at the border of the medallion. Make sure the newspaper covers the ceiling for at least a foot around the medallion. If there is a light fixture in the center of the medallion that can't be easily removed, tape it off as well.
2. With your spray paint can, put a light coat of flat spray paint all over the medallion. Keep the can about a foot back and in constant motion as you spray. You want to make sure all the shapes are coated with paint, but that it doesn't gather up and drip. Wait an hour and put a second on, if necessary.
3. Once the base coat is dry, take your first color of paint and small paintbrushes up the ladder and paint the individual features on the will use that color. Paint it freehand, using the smallest of the brushes to do the edges of the features. Make sure to have a cup of water and paper towel handy to wipe off any paint that inadvertently strays outside the areas where you're trying to put it.
4. If you'll be using multiple colors to paint the designs, use one color at time, paint all the features that will use that color, let it dry to the touch, then do the next color and so on.
5. When it's all dry, use a small dish of flat white paint and a small brush to touch up any areas where the colors bled into the white background.
Tags: areas where, Ceiling Medallion, light coat, Make sure, medallion that
Ceiling joists, or ceiling beams, are wooden members with two prime functions. They connect the walls of a room together, completing the "box" of a building, and they support the ceiling of the room. Ceiling joists shouldn't be confused with floor joists, which also support the first-level ceiling. The only place ceiling joists are installed is where there is no living space above. Ceiling joists are installed after the walls are erect.
Calculating Size and Installation Specs
The size and spacing of the ceiling joist members are based upon the span, or length, from wall to wall and the weight of the ceiling finish. The ceiling will be drywall, plaster or other fire-rated assembly. A qualified and licensed design professional-architect or engineer-should be contracted to calculate the size and installation specifics of the ceiling joists span and ceiling type, along with bridging specifications and attachment details. Calculation of size of ceiling joists takes into consideration the structural design, load vs. span calculations, attachment specifications and building code requirements. Ceiling joists in small span areas, like a closet, can be as small as 2-by-6 dimensional lumber, spaced 2 feet apart. In long span areas, ceiling joists may be 2-by-12 dimensional lumber, spaced 12 inches apart. A design professional may also specify engineered lumber, like I-joists, which are wooden I-beams assembled by a manufacturer. With all of these variables, designing and selecting materials for ceiling joists without professional qualifications can lead to dangerous failures in the installed ceiling joist system.
Installing Ceiling Joists
Ceiling joists are installed on the top of the wall at each side of the room. Ceiling joists must sit with full bearing atop each wall. If the wall has a 2-by-4 top member, the ceiling joist must sit fully on top of it and bear 3 1/2 inches on the same (a 2-by-4 member is 3 5/8 inches wide). Likewise, with a 2-by-6 wall, the ceiling joist must sit totally on top of it, at 5 1/2 inches. Ceiling joists are toe-nailed to the top wall member, with 16-penny nails, or manufactured metal accessory wall ties as designed. Ceiling joists are not nailed to the wall members. If the roof and attic construction is above the ceiling joist installation, the ceiling joists must run parallel to the rafter construction and be attached to the roof rafters and wall top to create a tie condition.
Stiffening Ceiling Joists
Solid bridging is recommended to stiffen ceiling joists. These are solid wooden blocks placed and nailed between the ceiling joists in a straight line, continuous from wall to wall. Most installations call for bridging to be made of the same size lumber as the ceiling joist members and spaced at a maximum of 8 feet on center. The bridging can be placed closer together if specified by a design professional. Bridging transfers weight from one joist to another to aid in deflection and sagging. Bridging also helps to avoid drywall cracking due to deflection.
Tags: , , wall wall, 2-by-4 member, based upon, based upon span, Ceiling Joist Installation
Sprayed-on acoustic, commonly referred to as a "popcorn" ceiling because of its appearance, was a widely used ceiling treatment in the 1960s and 1970s, popular for its sound and heating insulating value. Over time, popcorn ceiling material discolored and flaked, and often contained asbestos, making its removal a standard step in most remodeling projects. As the is removed from the ceiling, minor scrapes or surface blemishes result that must be patched and the procedure is a simple one to complete in preparation for the new ceiling finish.
Instructions
1. Lightly sand the using a drywall pole sander to remove any remnants of the acoustic "popcorn" material from the ceiling. Due to the potential health hazard of the material, eye and breathing protection should be worn until the material is no longer present.
2. Access the ceiling from a stepladder and apply a thin coat of lightweight latex putty to each surface blemish using a wide-bladed putty knife. Build up the coating slightly to improve the coverage and fill for sanding.
3. Allow all of the patched blemishes to dry thoroughly. Sand each patch lightly using a sanding block or pole sander to smooth the patch.
4. Blend the filled area to flush with the ceiling surface. Additional coatings can be made to level and repair larger gouges, scrapes or other damaged spots, if necessary.
Tags: ceiling surface, from ceiling, pole sander, popcorn ceiling, popcorn material
Wood ceilings are created in a similar way to wood floors, with tongue-and-groove boards that connect along their edges to form the surface. If your ceiling is a cathedral or vaulted ceiling, meaning it angles up to a peak, it's still generally the same process, except you have to length-cut the long edges of the boards at the top and bottom of each section of the ceiling to match the angles there. An angle finder (a small carpenter's square, hinged in the middle) will help find the correct angle.
Instructions
1. Locate and mark each of the ceiling joists with an studfinder. Mark out lines up the whole ceiling on both sides of the peak, using a level and pencil. (Note: If the ceiling as exposed joists, you can skip this step.)
2. Measure the length of the ceiling where it meets the wall on one side. Mark that measurement on a ceiling plank. Cut it to size on your miter saw.
3. Use your angle-finder to determine the angle between the edge of the ceiling and the wall. On a regular flat ceiling, it will be a 90 degree angle, but on a vaulted ceiling it will be something more than that, depending on how steep it is.
4. Tilt the blade of your table saw to the angle you found on the ceiling. Run the cut piece of ceiling plank through the table saw, trimming from the grooved side to make the edge of the board match the angle.
5. Hold the plank to the ceiling, with the angled edge facing the wall. Shoot trim nails through the surface of the board to install it, shooting two nails at each joist.
6. Cut the next plank to the right length. Don't run it through the table saw, but leave the long tongue and groove edges intact. Press the grooved side of the board over the tongue side of the first board. Secure it by shooting a trim nail just above the tongue at each joist.
7. Repeat the process to install each board, working you way up the ceiling. Length-cut the top boards (as the peak of the ceiling) as you did the first one, first taking the angle of the peak and then cutting from the tongue side instead of the grooved side of the board.
8. Repeat the whole process for the other side of the ceiling.
Tags: grooved side, ceiling plank, ceiling will, each joist,
Options to remodel kitchen lighting are extensive.
Whether you are just moving into an older home with outdated or if you just need to update your current kitchen lighting, it is not a difficult process to remodel the ceiling lighting. Factors that come into play when deciding on the project's scope include the amount of money you are willing to spend, the time you are willing to spend and the style of your kitchen.
Instructions
1. Install round ceiling lights throughout the entire kitchen. This makes the kitchen seem as if it is receiving natural light because the brightness is evenly spaced. Although it may be more time-consuming than other options, it is also less expensive.
2. Reconstruct the ceiling to allow actual daylight into the kitchen. This is a more expensive option but if you install windows in the ceiling, you are saving on the electricity that you use for lighting and you enhance the quality of light at the same time.
3. Install under-the-cabinet lighting in the kitchen. This adds a modern feel to the space as well as providing you with lighting at the level that you need when completing a task in the kitchen.
4. Add a chandelier in the middle of the kitchen to bring out the classical side of the kitchen's theme. Adding a chandelier to your kitchen space creates an elegant and formal atmosphere.
Tags: kitchen lighting, kitchen This, willing spend, your kitchen