Use Japanese Parasols As Home Decor

Japanese parasols are a work of art, featuring landscapes, flowers, birds or solids in brilliant colors. They are at home in Japanese and pan-Asian decor, but they also make an eye-catching accessory in a variety of styles. They are a quick, affordable way to add visual impact to a dark corner or a drab room.

Instructions

Turning Japanese

1. Procure Japanese parasols. They are commonly found at import stores, garden boutiques, flea markets and antique shops. They are often sold alongside Chinese and Indonesian parasols, the three of which can be combined to great effect. Ripped or stained Japanese parasols are relatively common. You can dust them, gently clean them, patch them or use them in their distressed state for a shabby chic statement.

2. Determine display them. Some people prop Japanese parasols in the corner. A bouquet of parasols looks beautiful when propped in a tall basket or a ceramic pot. Smaller parasols can fit on deep shelves. The most fun way to show off a collection of parasols is to hang them. You can use individual hooks screwed into the ceiling or string up fishing line from which you hang the parasols. Intersperse them with Chinese lanterns for added effect.

3. Take advantage of the bright colors and patterns on Japanese parasols. Rather than coordinating, try to find interesting color contrasts or overlap between patterns. This jumbled effect looks ideal in a child's room or the master bedroom. Accent the parasols by painting the room's walls or trim a complementary color. Flowers, plants or tissue paper flowers also complement parasols well.

4. Use Japanese parasols seasonally. They are a lovely way to usher in April showers. They also are a fun party decoration. Their bright colors are the ideal complement for Easter eggs and add a splash of cheer to a baby shower. Weddings, birthdays and mother's day are other occasions fitting for a parasol theme.

5. Try placing them outdoors. While most Japanese parasols are too delicate for direct rain or strong wind, they can brighten a covered outdoor area such as a gazebo, terrace, porch or even a tiki bar. Intersperse them with torches, luminaries, candles and topiary to create an artful garden.

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Ceiling Mount An Aironet

Use an electric drill when mounting Aironets.

Cisco Aironets, which are access points for wireless connections, feature two separate models that you can hang from a ceiling. Both the Aironet 1100 and 1200 series come with their own hanging brackets, which are designed to hang on walls and ceilings for convenience. Aironets are lightweight, making the mounting process simple and fast. The access points' brackets feature slotted screw holes that you can slide fasteners into to secure the items to the ceiling.

Instructions

1. Determine the Aironet mounting location on the ceiling, keeping cable paths in mind.

2. Insert a 1/4-inch auger bit into an electric drill. Hold the mounting bracket to the ceiling. Find the bracket's two slotted ceiling mount holes, which are located near the larger cable opening at the center of the bracket.

3. Drill through the ceiling using the ceiling mounting holes as a guide for correct placement. Set the Aironet mount to the side.

4. Insert the pop toggles' tapered ends into each drilled hole in the ceiling. Tap the back sides of each toggle to seat the toggle caps flush to the ceiling. Insert a threaded fastener into each pop toggle and turn it in a clockwise direction. Stop rotating the fastener when the screw head is 1/4 inch from the ceiling.

5. Place the mounting bracket up to the ceiling. Slip the toggle fastener heads through the mounting bracket slots. Slide the mounting bracket so that the fastener heads slip over the slots' thinner ends.

6. Tighten the toggle fasteners using a Phillips screwdriver to secure the mounting bracket to the ceiling. Run the cable through the mounting bracket and connect it to your Aironet. Attach the Aironet to the mounting bracket.

Tags: mounting bracket, bracket ceiling, access points, Aironet mounting, each toggle

Repair A Ceiling Stain In A Mobile Home

Mobile homes are typically less expensive than conventional houses.

Water, smoke, soot and cooking splatters create unpleasant stains on your mobile home ceiling. Because mobile home ceilings are typically made from panels, suspended ceiling tiles or sheet rock, replacing the damaged area can be difficult and time consuming. Instead, try cleaning the stains with a few common household ingredients. If the stains are still visible after cleaning attempts, you will have to cover them up with primer and paint.

Instructions

Cleaning

1. Cover items in the room with drop cloths to prevent discoloration or damage from cleaning solution drips. Wipe the ceiling clean with a dust mop.

2. Fill a bucket with 2 gallons warm water. Add 1 1/2 cups household bleach to the water, and mix it with a wooden spoon.

3. Secure an extension handle to a paint roller. Dip the paint roller into the bleach solution, and roll over the ceiling stains gently. Allow the bleach to sit on the stains for 15 minutes.

4. Fill a clean bucket with cool water, and dip a clean paint roller in it. Rinse the mixture off the ceiling with the roller, and allow the ceiling to air dry.

Covering

5. Remove all items from the room. Take down wall decorations and curtains. Cover heavy items that cannot be removed with drop cloths. Spread out several drop cloths to cover the floor. Stick painter's tape along the edges of trim and molding to protect it from the paint.

6. Apply a stain-blocking primer -- available in an aerosol can that sprays upward for easier ceiling application -- over the ceiling, including the stain. The primer keeps the stains from bleeding through the new paint. Allow the primer to air dry for several hours.

7. Pour ceiling paint into a plastic paint tray. Roll a clean paint roller into the paint, and allow the excess paint to drip off the roller back into the paint tray. Start rolling the ceiling paint gently on the ceiling closet to the window. If the room includes multiple windows, begin at the window with the most light shining through. The light will help hide any roller marks that you may leave behind.

8. Continue rolling the paint on the ceiling in a back-and-forth motion until you have thoroughly coated the ceiling. Allow the ceiling to dry for 24 hours.

Tags: paint roller, drop cloths, bucket with, ceiling paint, clean paint, clean paint roller, into paint

What Colors To Decorate With A Blue Tub & Sink

Blue combines easily with other colors for a stylish look.

Whether you're fortunate enough to have a modern bathroom with a navy, cobalt or midnight blue tub and sink, or you're working to create an up-to-date look for an older bathroom with pale blue fixtures, you're not limited for choices. Several colors blend well with blue no matter what the shade. Determine what mood you want to create, and flesh out the details that will allow you to carry out your decorating plan.

More Blue

While it may seem like an obvious choice to decorate a blue bathroom with blue paint and accessories, you don't have to stick to the exact shade of blue of your tub and sink. Accent a bathroom with light blue fixtures by adding touches of navy or cobalt throughout as a bold accent. Opt for a shower curtain, shelving and bathmat in a dark blue hue. Alternatively, pair a navy tub and sink with items in a pale gray blue shade for a cool, modern look.

Neutral Colors

Neutral colors are an effective way to tone down the look of a blue bathroom. By pairing khaki, white, cream or slate gray with your blue bathroom fixtures, you can reduce the impact of the blue fixtures. Add a pair of lacy white curtains, a vase of white roses and white walls for a classy, feminine look. For a more manly bathroom, choose towels that combine tan and blue in bold stripes; toothbrush, hand soap and soap dishes in a blue that matches your fixtures; and burlap curtains for the window.

Pastel Colors

Pastel colors complement blue bathroom fixtures in a natural way. Combine blue with a pale yellow for a warm, clean look. Choose a border that combines yellow and blue in a striped, floral or geometric pattern, and attach it to the wall in a matter of an afternoon. Combine blue and lavender for a genteel feeling. Select a floral print wallpaper that depicts blooms of both colors and choose frilly curtains that match your fixtures to complete this Southern look.

Bold Colors

Since you've already missed the boat when it comes to creating an understated bathroom with a white tub and sink, you may as well go all out and choose bold colors to accent your blue bath. Pick red to go with the blue in your bath and add accents of white for an Americana look. Choose wall ornaments in an old-fashioned country style and show your patriotic spirit. Alternatively, choose sunflower yellow for a cheery look. Locate a painting of wild sunflowers in a field as the focal point for your bath, and find a shower curtain with a plethora of sunflower blooms on it as well.

Tags: bathroom with, blue bathroom, blue fixtures, bathroom fixtures, blue bathroom fixtures, blue your

Decorate A Ceiling With Corks

Save your old wine corks to create a distinctive ceiling.

When ordinary room décor and architecture aren't enough, and you crave something distinctive and artistic, consider decorating your ceiling with wine bottle corks. You'll need patience and dedication, as well as a large supply of corks if you want to fill the entire ceiling with these tiny objects. The results will surely prove memorable for anyone who visits the space.

Instructions

1. Start with a smooth ceiling. Remove any popcorn or other uneven texture by scraping it off down to the drywall beneath if necessary. Clean the smooth ceiling by removing any dust or debris, which could prevent the glue from properly sticking.

2. Plan the layout of your ceiling decoration make from cork. Glue the cork horizontally, on its side, or standing straight up, vertically. Fill every inch of the ceiling or create a pattern or shape with the cork on sections of the ceiling for varying texture.

3. Prepare for the cork installation. Fill a bucket that hooks to your ladder with corks for easy access. Charge your glue gun and keep it in a tool belt so you'll have a place to put it when necessary.

4. Start on the side corner of the ceiling and apply a layer of glue to a single cork. Press it into place in the corner. Repeat the process, working your way out from the corner and moving the ladder as necessary. Continue the process until the area of the ceiling is covered.

Tags: smooth ceiling, your ceiling

Classic Bathroom Ideas

Classic bathroom

Classic bathrooms will stay in style for decades, which will save you money on constantly remodeling trendy decor. A classic bathroom will work for you or any future home owners. Add your personality to the bathroom through accessories while staying with traditional design.

Classic Colors

Classic colors for a bathroom are black and white. An updated classic color palette adds in taupe walls or dark wood accents. White should be the predominant color in the room with small black accent tiles. Texture adds interest to a white bathroom. Accent the space with fluffy white towels and an opulent bath mat. Choose fixtures in bright white, so the most expensive items in the room such as the toilet, sink and bathtub are neutral.

Traditional metal finishes are brass or chrome for lighting fixtures and towel bars. Avoid modern finishes in oil-rubbed bronze or brushed steel that may become outdated quickly. Use subtle traditional paint colors such as soft blues or muted greens on bathroom walls for a spot of color.

Classic Styles

Classic style doesn't have to be boring, plain or conventional. There are several different directions in which to take a traditional bathroom. Add in French flair with an intricate painted chair tucked underneath the vanity. Finish the space with an over-sized ornate mirror. Vintage style can add flair to a classic bathroom. Install honeycomb flooring and rectangular subway tile in the shower and on the walls for a vintage look that is still neutral. Anaglyptic wallpaper is embossed wallpaper that you can paint and is a hallmark of vintage design. Tin ceiling tiles also add interest to a bathroom while keeping with classic style.

Stay true to the style of your home when figuring out which classic design is right for your bathroom. A classic bungalow bathroom would feature wide moldings around the windows and wainscoting on the walls. Terracotta tile is classic in Southwest and Spanish decor, so consider the history of the area you live in when decorating.

Materials and Fixtures

Fixtures in a traditional bathroom should be neutral. A pedestal sink is a free-standing sink. It doesn't have the storage of a vanity, but it features sleek porcelain that is always in fashion. A claw-foot tub can give your bathroom a vintage feeling. Add interest to tile work by setting wall or floor tile on the diagonal. A plain white curtain or glass door works as a shower enclosure. Decorate the window with simple white wood blinds or plantation shutters.

Tags: classic bathroom, doesn have, space with, traditional bathroom, your bathroom

Make Popcorn Ceilings

Also known as acoustic ceilings, popcorn ceilings have a texture that resemble its namesake. Because of its position, light often falls on the ceiling surface, making every single imperfection stand out. The popcorn texture serves to hide the imperfections that ceilings tend to have. Depending on the quality of the popcorn ceiling installation, the ceiling might not need any other coating to make it look presentable. Popcorn ceilings are easy to install, but require some preparation beforehand.

Instructions

1. Cover the floor with a large piece of drop cloth to prevent any spills from damaging or staining it. Wear old clothes that you don't mind getting dirty and a pair of protective goggles.

2. Spackle the ceiling if it has cracks. Dip the wide end of putty knife into a can of spackling compound and smear the spackling compound over the cracks in the ceiling.

3. Brush on a coat of primer over the areas you filled with spackling compound and leave it for four hours.

4. Pour the popcorn texture mix into a large bucket and add water. Because every product might differ, follow the mixing instructions printed on the product packaging closely.

5. Dip a paint mixer into the bucket and turn it on. The mixture will thicken into a porridge-like consistency. Let the mixture sit for a few minutes.

6. Pour the popcorn texture mixture into the hopper container of a compressor sprayer.

7. Turn on the sprayer and direct the spray gun to the ceiling. A compressor sprayer has a long hose that allows you to move freely around the room while spraying without having to climb up a ladder. Keep moving as you apply a thin layer of popcorn texture to the ceiling to get an even result. Don't worry about covering the entire surface at this point.

8. Check the ceiling and spray the texture onto the areas you miss during the first application.

9. Scrape off any texture that go onto the walls with a wide putty knife. The spray gun is likely to get some of the popcorn texture on the walls and you have to remove it before it dries and hardens.

Tags: popcorn texture, spackling compound, compressor sprayer, Pour popcorn, Pour popcorn texture

What Is A Coffered Ceiling

What Is a Coffered Ceiling?

A coffered ceiling is a ceiling with recessed panels framed by beams. These decorative panels are usually square. The coffered ceiling is a home design element that gives interest to the ceiling, which is often overlooked in home décor.

History

Builders in ancient Rome used coffered ceilings in the Pantheon to lighten the weight of the structure's large dome.

Types

Coffered ceiling styles range from elaborate Victorian looks that feature molding and pendants to English country styles with hefty wooden beams. Coffered ceiling do-it-yourself kits are available.

Features

Coffered ceilings are made up of beams, which can be solid hardwood or faux beams. The coffer, or recessed area, is also known as a caisson or lacuna.

Misconceptions

Coffered ceilings are often thought of only for grand or traditional rooms, but monochromatically painted coffered ceilings with simple beams and shallow coffers have a modern, simple look.

Considerations

A ceiling with deep coffers and wide beams works best when installed in rooms with tall ceilings. According to Neal Barrett, author of Ultimate Guide to Architectural Ceiling Treatments, a coffered ceiling could overwhelm a small room with a low ceiling height.

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Make A Chandelier Out Of Pipe And White Lights

Cut PVC pipe into pieces for a chic chandelier.

Chandeliers spread and diffuse light, making the area below them glow. Even if the bulbs aren't very strong, chandeliers reflect their light to make the most of them. While traditional chandeliers house individual bulbs under glass hurricanes, modern chandeliers can be nearly any material. If you love industrial chic pieces, you can even use PVC pipe and white twinkle lights. The project is inexpensive and will quickly draw the eye upward, showing off your decorating skills and your DIY prowess.

Instructions

1. Clean all of your PVC pipes with alcohol wipes. This removes dirt and grime that may prevent your glue from adhering. It also makes the pipe look shiny and new. Pipe often gets very dirty in the hardware store; it will look smudged when you purchase it.

2. Cut pipes of different diameters to different lengths. Diameters may range from 3 inches to 6 inches and lengths from 2 inches to about 6 inches. Try cutting narrow pipes longer and wider pipes shorter for an interesting visual effect.

3. Cluster all of the pipe pieces together in a rectangle or circle on a flat surface. All of the pipes must touch each other. Arrange and rearrange them until you find a pleasing configuration. The parts of the pipes sticking upward now will hang downward later.

4. Pick up the pipe pieces, one at a time, and apply polyurethane glue to the sides. Replace the pipe, pressing it against the pieces around it. Continue until all of the pipes are glued together. Allow the glue to dry overnight. This is the chandelier assembly.

5. Cut four pieces of 4-inch diameter PVC pipe about 8 inches long. Fit one end of each pipe with a pipe flange. Remove the flanges, apply glue to the end of each pipe and replace the flanges. Let the glue dry overnight.

6. Flip over the chandelier assembly so you can see the flat side. Glue the four flanged pieces of pipe at even intervals around the edges of the chandelier assembly. The flanges should stick up about 3 inches above the assembly and sit even with each other. Allow the glue to dry overnight.

7. Arrange a strand of up to 300 lights over the flat side of the chandelier assembly. Scatter the lights randomly, or arrange them in a pattern, as you like. Place the battery pack near an edge for convenience.

8. Slip binder clips over the wires in the twinkle lights, sliding the sides of each clip down over the edges of the pipes. Each binder clip should span the touching edges of two pipes. Continue until the lights are snugly secured to the chandelier assembly.

9. Screw the flanges into the ceiling with 2 inch screws and an electric hand drill. Turn the chandelier on by reaching over the edge and turning on the battery pack.

Tags: chandelier assembly, about inches, glue overnight, Allow glue, Allow glue overnight

Replace The Main Load Bearing Beam When You Have Termites

Main load-bearing beams support the weight of an entire floor or roof. These beams are long and bulky, and they often become infested by termites if the structure isn't protected against bugs. If your load-bearing beam becomes infested, you must replace it. Expect to spend one to two days bracing, removing and replacing a load-bearing beam, depending on the size and scope of the project.

Instructions

1. Brace the floor or ceiling that rests on the termite infested beam. Build temporary two-by-four walls, and place them on each side of the beam. Measure the span between the ceiling and floor or floor and basement, and frame two temporary walls that correspond to this height. Insert 3-inch wood screws through the top of the temporary walls to hold them in place.

2. Cut away the termite-infested beam with a reciprocating saw. Cut nails and screws through to separate the beam from any structure to which it may be attached. Cut the beam into sections so as to break it into manageable pieces. Pry the beam away with a pry bar with care, so as not to damage any surrounding structure.

3. Spray all surrounding wooden structure with termite controlling solution, saturating the structure to kill all remaining termites. Allow the chemical to dry before proceeding.

4. Cut the beam to full length, and place two-by-fours flat on the top and bottom of the beam to serve as nailers and extra support. Tap the beam upright into the old slot where the rotted beam once rested. Attach the new beam to the ceiling or floor joist with 3-inch screws by inserting the screws through the top of the beam at an angle and into the joists above. Attach 4-inch metal roll flashing to the bottom of the beam using 1-inch roofing nails to prevent future infestation.

5. Remove the temporary bracing from each side of the beam gently to allow the overhead joists to rest on the new beam. Pay attention to the overhead floor or ceiling joists as you remove the temporary support to ensure that the new beam is working.

Tags: screws through, bottom beam, ceiling floor, each side, each side beam

Diy Ceiling Tv Projector

Building a DIY ceiling TV projector is a project that requires a good deal of ingenuity, as well as an understanding of projector technology. Fortunately, if you're looking to build one, the hard research has been done for you, and everything from theory to plans to complete projector kits are available online. But before you choose the type of DIY ceiling projector you wish to build, a general plan of what's needed to mount the projector will help.

The Big Box

Your DIY projector's size will depend heavily on the parts used. The main element in producing the projected picture will be the monitor used for the project and, depending on the resolution you intend to project, this monitor will likely range from 15 inches to 17 inches. When you place that size monitor, along with the equipment needed to transform a flat screen LCD into a TV projector in a single enclosure, what you'll end up with is a big wooden box. Decorate it as you like; paint it or carve it. No matter what you do, it's still a big box, and a heavy one at that, weighing in somewhere between 20 and 40 lbs.---which makes mounting it to your ceiling a difficult task.

Rail Mount

Due to the weight of the DIY projector, you'll have to approach the mounting as a project nearly as big as building the projector was. Check your ceiling for structural supports that would make the mounting safer to those standing under your projector and less likely to cause damage to the ceiling itself.

The most convenient way to mount your DIY projector to the ceiling is by using a rail mount system, parts found at your local hardware store. To build this mount, you'll need two channel rails as your mount system. Attach the rails to your ceiling rafters. Pick a length that suits the room and the box. The longer the channels, the more adjustable the projector picture will be, as you can change the projected size by moving the box along the channels. Be sure to mount all holes in the center of the studs.

To run your projector through the channels, you'll need four threaded rods. On the channel end, use a nut that fits inside the channel without obstructing the rod's movement and a washer also inside the channel. Outside the channel, attach a second washer and nut to the rod, leaving enough rod between the two washers to allow unobstructed movement along the channel. You'll want to attach the other end of this rod securely to your projector box, drilling holes in the top of the box where needed. If you place two rods per channel, four for the box in total, you should have a secure mobile projector mount on your ceiling for your DIY projector.

Tags: your ceiling, your projector, ceiling projector, inside channel, mount system, mount your

Treatments For Tin Ceilings & Tile Walls

Tin ceilings and tile walls set the tone for a room's ambience.

Tin ceiling tiles and wall tiles provide strong design elements in the look of a home's decor. You can learn how you can use and customize tin ceiling tiles and wall tiles to add elegance and to fit a specific space and decor style of your home.

Antiquing Tin Ceilings

Paint the tin ceiling tiles with a bonding primer and allow to dry. Paint the tin tiles in two or three tones of the same color. Paint the dry tiles in a cream color, allowing some of the existing color to show through. Cover approximately 80 percent of each tile.

Copper Tin Ceilings

Use paint to replicate the look of copper tin ceiling tiles. Use dark brown paint and coat the tile. Cover with a copper metallic paint, using a small foam roller.

Wall Tile Murals

Wall tiles are more than protective back splashes. Customize wall tiles to depict anything from landscape scenes to replicas of original masterpieces. Look for companies specializing in wall tile murals you can tailor to fit a specific area.

Unusual Wall Tile Designs

Lay traditional subway tile in a vertical pattern or combine two tones of the same color to create a harlequin pattern. Another option is to outline architectural detail in a bold colored tile.

Tags: ceiling tiles, wall tiles, ceiling tiles wall, Paint tiles, same color

Wire A Ceiling Fan With Exposed Wires

Wiring a ceiling fan is a simple process.

While the idea of working with electricity and installing a ceiling fan may seem daunting, it is actually a relatively simple task, provided you take proper precautions. If wires have already been run from your breaker box and are exposed out of the ceiling, the hardest step has already been completed.

Instructions

Preparation

1. Turn off the power to the exposed wires. If you are confident in your breaker box's labels, you can simply flip the breaker to the outlet or room you're working on. If there is any doubt about which breaker to flip, it is safest to flip the main breaker. This will turn off all of the power in your home.

2. Identify your wires. There are two wires coming out of the ceiling, one white and one black. There are at least three wires coming out of the fan. The black wire is the "hot" wire, which carries the electricity into the fan motor. The white wire is neutral, and the green wire is the ground wire. If the fan has lights, there will also be a blue wire, which is the hot wire that carries electricity to the lights.

3. Clip the wires coming out of the ceiling fan motor, leaving each wire four inches long. Strip a one-half inch length of insulation off of the end of each wire.

Wiring the fan

4. Twist the exposed ends of the green and white wires together, then twist them together with the white wire coming out of the ceiling, securing the bundle with one of your wire nuts.

5. Twist the black and blue wires together (there will not be a blue wire if the fan does not have lights), then twist them to the black wire coming out of the ceiling, securing the bundle with a wire nut.

6. There may also be a red wire coming out of the ceiling. If there is, connect the blue wire from the ceiling fan to the red wire. Your wiring would then be: the white and green from the fan connected to the white from the ceiling; the black connected to the black; and the blue connected to the red.

Tags: coming ceiling, blue wire, wire coming, wire coming ceiling, wires coming, already been, black blue

Get Black Mold Out Of A Wood Ceiling

Mold loves to grow on wood. For starters, wood is porous, and so it traps moisture. Additionally, wood contains natural "food" for mold growth (in the form of an organism called cellulose). If you have a wood ceiling, regularly check that you have no cracks or leaks in your roof, because if rain water seeps into the ceiling, a black mold colony can quickly take form.

Instructions

1. Remove the source of the moisture. If moisture continues to seep into your wood ceiling while you clean up the mold, the problem will only worsen. Examine your roof and patch up any holes or cracks. If the moisture resulted from another problem (like liquid spilled in the attic or on a second-story carpet), remove the liquid and the source of the liquid.

2. Determine whether you can kill the mold on your own. If the mold seeped in from the roof, you must enter the attic to attack the colony from above. If you cannot access the ceiling from above, you must call a professional to replace the wood. If you can access the ceiling from above, examine it carefully to assess the damage. If you have a large colony growing (black mold will appear slimy and black, with shades of green), you will probably need to replace the wood anyway, because wood is highly porous and can trap mold within its fibers.

3. Dry the wood to stop the black mold growth. Black mold can grow only if moisture is present, so drying the wood will stop the mold in its tracks. A portable heater can dry wood quickly, but if you cannot place a portable device near the ceiling surface, turn on your central heating unit for several hours until the ceiling dries.

4. Mix 1 part bleach with 16 parts water (the equivalent of 1 cup to 1 gallon) and pour into a spray bottle. Put on a breathing mask and rubber gloves. Bleach is corrosive and black mold is highly toxic.

5. Spray the ceiling on both sides to kill the black mold spores. Wait 15 minutes and scrub with a firm-bristled brush. Spray the ceiling with water to rinse the bleach and then dry the ceiling using heat a second time. Keep a close eye on the ceiling. If mold returns, this indicates that the colony has likely penetrated too deep into the wood. Contact a mold remediator and replace the ceiling immediately.

Tags: black mold, from above, access ceiling, access ceiling from, ceiling from, ceiling from above, mold growth

Design A Living Room With A Fireplace

Make your fireplace the focal point of your living room.

A fireplace adds an element of warmth and old world charm to a house. An array of different designs and styles of fireplaces are available, including wood burning, gas and artificial. Depending on its location in your home, the fireplace creates a different design aesthetic; a bedroom fireplace brings coziness to the room, for example, while a living room fireplace conveys refined elegance. Of course, it all comes down to personal taste. Think of your living room as a blank canvas as you design the room with a fireplace.

Instructions

1. Make the fireplace the focal point of the living room. Design the room so the fireplace is the center of attention, regardless of its location in the room and regardless of whether it needs remodeled, decorated or built from scratch.

2. Decide what type of fireplace to install, if you don't yet have one. The installation and construction process varies widely depending on the style of fireplace. Wood burning fireplaces cost the most and take the most work to install. Wood burning fireplaces also require regular maintenance. Other options include electric or gas fireplaces, which cost less and offer easier maintenance, but lack the charm of a true wood burning fireplace. Your living room's shape and size may restrict you from choosing certain fireplace types; consult with a professional fireplace installer if you need help choosing.

3. Select the fireplace material. Choose from a variety of materials, including brick, stone or slate. Accent materials could include a wood mantel for a wood burning fireplace, or stone, brick, marble or slate for a gas burning fireplace. Mix and match materials if you desire. Choose the materials based on your home’s decor and what material works best in your home.

4. Draw design inspiration from the fireplace for the rest of the living room. Once you determine the fireplace's style and location in the room, design the rest of the room around the fireplace. For example, include rustic design elements like orange, brown and yellow paint and furnishing accents into the overall living room decor to complement a rustic brick fireplace. For a formal living room, elegant figurines and family pictures on the fireplace mantel are appropriate, with clean and crisp colors like off-whites, grays and beiges. Incorporate your personal design tastes into accessories to highlight the overall design motif.

5. Place furniture in the room. Proper furniture placement gives the room harmony and establishes the fireplace as the focal point, despite any large furniture pieces. Begin by placing the largest piece of furniture first, likely the living room sofa. Set the sofa up to face the focal point in the room: the fireplace. If multiple large pieces of furniture exist in the room, distribute them evenly to ensure balance. Use the furniture pieces to accent the architectural design of the room, such as a round sectional for a bay window. Next, place the remaining pieces of furniture in relation to the sofa to maintain the function and comfort of the room. Follow by placing secondary accent furnishings, such as a reading corner chair. Do not overcrowd the room or interfere with traffic patterns with furniture placement. Most importantly, let your personality shine through in the room’s design.

Tags: living room, focal point, room fireplace, burning fireplace, fireplace focal

Mount A Wood Window Cornice On The Ceiling

Wood cornices are traditionally used as decorative window and door framework.

A window cornice is a decorative piece of framework that is traditionally mounted just above a window. For windows that sit close to the ceiling or for ornamental purposes, you can mount the window cornice on the ceiling in nearly the same manner as mounting it on the wall. The window cornices along the ceiling can be used to focus the light from pot lighting, or even used to hide an ugly curtain rod.

Instructions

1. Use the tape measure to measure the length of the window cornice. For those that are 24 inches or less you will need to attach the cornice in two locations on the ceiling with screws. For those longer than 24 inches, you will need to add one set of screws for every 12 inches of length. For example, you will need three sets of screws to attach a 36-inch long window cornice or four sets of screws to attach a 48-inch-long window cornice. Round up to the nearest division of 12 when calculating the number of sets necessary.

2. Make two small marks on the top, inside of the window cornice. For a 24-inch-long window cornice, measure inward 6 inches from one end and make a mark. Make another dot at the 6-inch mark, 1 inch up from the first. Measure 6 inches inward from the opposite end and make two more marks in the same manner. For window cornices of different lengths, measure 6 inches inward from each end for your first marks, and then add two more marks in the same way every 12 inches.

3. Drill a hole through each mark. Hold the window cornice against the ceiling in the location you would like. Use a pencil to make a mark at either short end of the cornice and a dotted line along one long side. Lay the window cornice aside for a moment.

4. Use the pencil marks to draw marks on the ceiling that coordinate with the location of the screw holes on the window cornice. Drill a small pilot hole through each mark on the ceiling.

5. Hold the window cornice against the ceiling, and line up the holes in the window cornice with the pilot holes on the ceiling. Insert the screws into the holes in the window cornice and screw them into the pilot holes in the ceiling.

Tags: window cornice, window cornice, holes window, holes window cornice, will need

Decorate A Living Room With Black Leather Furniture

Owning black leather furniture does not have to limit your living room decorating options. You can use black leather furniture as the centerpiece of many decorating styles. The key is to not fight against what you have, but to find a way to work with it. These guidelines are meant to compliment your personal style and not overpower it.

Instructions

1. Pick living room colors that will complement the black leather furniture. When you have a statement piece as strong as black leather, you want other colors in the room to work with it. Many people make the mistake of picking another strong color such as deep green, burgundy, or brilliant gold to match the intensity, but it is much wiser to stick to neutrals and allow the leather to stand on its own. The main elements of the room are the items that should be neutral in color such as beige or taupe walls and earth tone flooring.

2. Pick living room décor that will contrast with the black leather furniture. Nothing brings out black furniture better than having pieces the contrast with it. This doesn't mean your room has to be black and white (unless you really like that motif). You can also contrast your black leather furniture with glass tables and steel accents.

3. Ground and balance the room with other black furnishings and area rugs. If you have black on one side of the room, you need to balance it by placing black items in other areas. An area rug that is black or that has black details will ground the room. Black table legs and lamp bases will help balance the room. Black frames on your art will also create a sense of balance.

4. Add a bit of ethnic flair to your living room with black leather furniture. Ethnic home décor is great for dominating a strong color scheme. Whether you prefer Asian, African, Indian or Caribbean design, such a theme will become the primary décor element of the room, pushing the black leather furniture to a secondary position. The key is to do this in moderation, so as to not overpower the room, but to compliment your existing furnishings.

Tags: black leather furniture, leather furniture, black leather, black leather, balance room, color such

What Scent Repels Mice

What Scent Repels Mice?

There are natural methods to repel mice. Some of the methods involve scent. Mice, like every mammal, have a keen sense of smell. This sense protects the mice from consuming dangerous substances, entering areas that contain no food and staying away from natural predators. In order to make a natural cure for your problem, you need to find scents that repel mice.

Function

Imagine you're a mouse and you want to stay alive. You certainly wouldn't go to an area that you knew contained some of your most fierce predators. That's the logic that some of the natural mouse repellent' s use for their formulas. There are formulas that contain fox and bobcat urine. Urination is one way that the predators mark their territory. Mice definitely don't want to go near that area. There is a problem with the use of these products. They smell bad for people too. These must be used outside the house so new mice won't enter. Some products are specifically for the home, so they don't give off horrendous odors.

Identification

Tabasco sauce mixed with a gallon of water and sprayed around keeps mice away. They evidently don't care for the scent of cayenne pepper either and if you sprinkle some in oil and mix it thoroughly and then put a cotton ball in the oil and place them in locations where you have mice problems, the mice stay away.

Types

Mix up some peppermint and spearmint and you'll have a sweet smell that mice don't like. Even though the scent is pleasant, many natural mouse repellents use these two scents together to repel mice. This sounds a lot better than animal urine for the house. Make sure you use the true oil of peppermint or spearmint, not an extract.

Effects

Get a box of whole cloves and soak them in oil. Use the oil on pieces of cotton to place in areas that the mice frequent. The strength of the clove scent is the important factor so if you already have clove oil at home, uses it instead.

Considerations

Pour small containers of ammonia and leave them in areas where you have problems with the little critters. The logic here is that mice aren't fond of anything that smells remotely like urine and ammonia does the trick.

Misconceptions

Replace the Bounce fabric sheets often if you try them and use several scents. Mice don't like unusual smells and some find that the Bounce fabric softeners work for a short period until the mouse gets used to the scent. The problem is that you have to keep changing the sheets, both because they become accustomed to the odor and because the scent fades. These aren't as effective as other methods, but smell nice.

Tags: repel mice, that mice, areas that, Bounce fabric, Mice like

Remove Paint Spatters From Lighting Fixtures

Steel wool

So you painted a room in your home and you thought you had everything perfectly taped and covered with newspapers. Then you go back to look at your work, and you realize that paint splatters are stuck to your light fixtures. You don't need to replace the light fixture. Using the right tools will have it shining like new.

Instructions

1. Turn the light off. Heat will cause the paint stripper to react differently. If you need light to work by, move a lamp into the room or work during the day.

2. Apply a generous amount of paint stripper to the splatters using a paint brush. Don't use a good-quality brush. The brush will be ruined by the paint stripper and will have to be thrown out after this project. Place a sheet of tin foil around the paint stripper to keep it from drying too quickly. This speeds up the chemical process.

3. Allow the paint stripper to soften the splatters. Test to see if the stripper has done its job by scraping the paint splatters with a scraper. If the paint begins to come off then the chemicals are working.

4. Rub the splatters in a circular motion using extra-fine steel wool. The scraper can be used on flat surfaces but can be difficult to handle properly over curved edges and detail work. Use the steel wool on rounded areas.

5. Use a toothbrush coated with more paint stripper to get into tiny crevices.

6. Use a damp cloth to remove all traces of the paint stripper from your light fixture.

Tags: paint stripper, light fixture, paint splatters, steel wool, will have

Uses For Recycled Barn Tin

Old barn with tin roof

Recycled or reclaimed barn tin can be used to create a rustic look with a bit of a twist and a bit of history to your home. A green building product, recycled barn tin is taken from existing, old barns when they're torn down. Reclaimed tin can be purchased from many home improvement stores, or if you're lucky, you may find a farmer willing to sell directly to you.

Remodeling

Because a lot of old barn tin comes in sheets or tiles, it's a good product for a variety of remodeling projects around the house. If you like the rustic look but you're sick of all the wood, try installing a ceiling of corrugated, rusted tin panels. Reclaimed, painted tin tiles can add a soft country touch to a kitchen, especially when used as a back splash. Yet, reclaimed tin can be used to create more than just a rustic, country look. Instead of a bold, bright color, use recycled barn tin for a single wall of a room to give the room a rough, modern, industrial look. Reclaimed tin can also be painted and sealed if a more contemporary style is desired.

Furniture

Other than building projects, one of the most popular uses for recycled or reclaimed tin is furniture. Recycled tin has been used to create headboards and footboards for beds, backs for chairs and tops for tables. If metal cabinetry is up your alley, think about refinishing your existing cabinet doors with recycled tin. For a more rustic look, corrugated tin can be attached to the front of a wooden door, but for a smoother look, stick with the flat sheets. Add a bit of color to your cabinets by spray painting the metal with a metal paint, such as Rustoleum, and sealing them before attaching the tin to the front of the cabinet.

Home annd Garden Decor

You've probably seen metal wall decor, but you probably weren't aware most of it comes from recycled and reclaimed tin. Home decor, such as punched metal wall sconces, sculpted metal candle holders, tin tile frames and rustic metal shelves, is frequently made from reclaimed tin. Garden decor, such as lanterns, signs, figurines and even planters, can be created or decorated with reused barn tin.

Tags: rustic look, used create, decor such, metal wall, recycled barn

Decorate A Wedding Ceiling With Draping

Draping the ceiling in white or in your wedding colors adds an elegant touch to your venue.

Fabric draping can transform a drab or unimpressive ceiling into an ethereal canopy for a wedding. While some decorating companies will drape fabric over your venue's ceiling for a hefty price tag, you can create this effect yourself for a fraction of the cost. However, before attempting to drape a ceiling yourself, you must examine the ceiling and confer with the owners of the venue about what decorations are allowed for the wedding, as some venues have strict policies.

Instructions

Preparation

1. Study the venue to determine how you wish to hang the draping. One traditional method is to anchor one end of each drape at a corner of the room and bring the other ends together at a single central point, such as a chandelier. Another possibility is to hang a drape every few feet along the ceiling of the venue, anchoring it at the walls and the center of the ceiling. Visualize each possibility to determine which would look best in your venue.

2. Examine the structure of the ceiling. If the ceiling has beams or panels, you can tie the fabric to the ceiling with fishing line. Otherwise, you will need to use hooks, tacks or adhesive strips, depending on what the owners will allow.

3. Measure the ceiling to determine how much fabric you will need. If you are anchoring all of the drapes at a central point, measure from the corners and sides of the room to that point, then add those measurements together. If you are placing drapes in intervals across the ceiling, measure the distance from one side of the room to the other, then multiply this measurement by the number of drapes you will have.

4. Multiply your total measurement by twenty percent to account for the slack in the fabric from draping.

Draping

5. Sew or tie fishing line or ribbon to each end of each piece of fabric.

6. Tie the ribbon or fishing line directly to the ceiling beams, ceiling braces, chandelier, or similar surfaces if your venue's ceiling has them.

7. Attach hooks, hangers, embroidery loops, adhesive strips or other anchors to the wall and ceiling if there are no beams or other braces. Tie the ribbon or fishing line into a loop and hang it from the hooks. Alternatively, nail or tack the fabric directly to the wall, omitting the fishing line or ribbon entirely.

8. Place white Christmas lights in the fabric if you wish. The lights will shine through the fabric, creating a shimmery glow.

Tags: fishing line, your venue, adhesive strips, ceiling beams, central point

Trim An Outside Window Using Cedar

Cedar wood is widely used for exterior applications such as decking, siding and trim, because it is nearly impervious to moisture and holds its natural beauty despite exposure to the elements. Adding simple cedar trim to a new double-hung window completes the installation. The project can be easily accomplished, following a standard method used by home builders that ensures an attractive, weather-tight frame.

Instructions

1. Set the square side of a combination square to 1/4 inch, then place the square against the inside face of the window jamb. Make a mark at this measurement at the top and bottom of both sides of the window, on the outside face of the jamb.

2. Repeat the process to mark the face of the window jamb at the approximate midpoint on both sides and on the top horizontal frame section. These marks will be the 1/4-inch backset for the cedar trim boards.

3. Set a bevel square to the sill's slope angle. Place the square's handle vertically against the outside surface of the side jamb and press the blade down onto the sill. Tighten the blade screw to lock the angle. Use a protractor to determine the angle's measurement.

4. Set the table of a circular saw to the angle determined in Step 3. Cut the ends of two lengths of cedar trim material with this angle, making certain each length is slightly longer than the window's side height dimension.

5. Measure the height of the left side of the window, from the top of the sill where it meets the jamb, to the bottom edge of the top horizontal jamb. Cut one of the cedar trim boards to this measurement plus 1/4 inch. Make certain the board length is measured from the short point of the end angle.

6. Position the trim board cut in Step 5 flat against the wall. Align the inside vertical edge with the 1/4-inch backset lines. Attach the trim to the window and exterior wall surface by hammering in 8d galvanized nails spaced approximately 8 inches apart.

7. Repeat Steps 5 and 6 for the right-side vertical cedar trim board.

8. Measure the horizontal dimension across the top of the window, from the outside of both vertical cedar trim boards. Cut two pieces of cedar trim material to this length, making a square cut on both ends.

9. Place one of the cedar trim boards cut in Step 8 flat against the top of the window and resting on the vertical side cedar trim boards. Align both ends with the outside edges. Attach the board to the window jamb and wall surface with 8d galvanized nails spaced approximately 8 inches apart.

10. Position the second cedar trim board cut in Step 8 horizontally beneath and tight against the window sill. Align the outside vertical edges of the side trim boards. Attach this final piece to the wall surface with 8d galvanized nails spaced approximately 8 inches apart.

Tags: cedar trim, trim boards, cedar trim boards, approximately inches, approximately inches apart, galvanized nails

Replace A Ceiling Light With An Inserted Light

Recessed lights, also known as pot lights or inserted lights, are often used for task lighting, highlighting artwork, wall washing and general lighting. Placing a recessed light fixture in the ceiling makes the fixture less obtrusive and gives a room a more modern feel. The light trim on a recessed can changes the light intensity and the use of the fixture. Replacing a regular ceiling fixture with an inserted light requires some basic electrical knowledge.

Instructions

1. Turn off electrical power to the ceiling light by turning off the breaker in the main electrical service panel.

2. Remove the light shades from the ceiling light and the light bulbs. Loosen the screws on the ceiling light to detach it from the electrical junction box. Untwist the wire connector that connects the black wire from the ceiling light to the black wire from the house wiring. Disconnect the two white wires by untwisting the wire connector holding them together. Finish disconnecting the light fixture from the house wiring by untwisting the wire connector holding the green wire from the light fixture to the bare copper wire from the house wiring.

3. Remove the electrical box from the ceiling. If the box is attached to the ceiling joist with screws, remove the screws and remove the box. If the box is nailed to the joist, insert a piece of wood into the box and strike the wood with a hammer until the box becomes loose. Pull the box from the hole in the ceiling, taking care not to damage the electrical house wiring.

4. Center the template provided with the recessed remodel light can over the original electrical ceiling box hole. Trace around the template and use a drywall saw to carefully cut the drywall from the ceiling, enlarging the hole to fit the recessed can.

5. Open the junction box attached to the recessed remodel can by pressing on the tab and lifting the cover. Pull the existing house wiring through a knockout in the back of the recessed can's junction box.

6. Connect the black wire from the house wiring to the black wire from the recessed remodel can by twisting an orange wire connector onto both wires. Repeat this connection for the white wire from the house wiring and the white wire from the junction box. Finish the connection by twisting another orange wire connector onto the green wire from the recessed remodel can and the bare copper wire from the house wiring. Put the cover back on the recessed remodel can junction box.

7. Pull the black mounting clips into the recessed can so they do not stick outside the can, impeding insertion of the can into the ceiling. Slip the recessed can junction box and arm into the hole cut in the ceiling. Insert the recessed remodel can into the hole until the lip of the can is tight against the ceiling.

8. Place a slotted screwdriver into the black mounting clip and push each clip up and out until it clamps the inserted recessed remodel can to the ceiling.

9. Install a light bulb into the recessed can. Connect a recessed light trim to the recessed can with spring clips. Turn on the electricity to the recessed light by turning the breaker on in the main service panel.

Tags: wire from, house wiring, recessed remodel, from house, from house wiring, wire connector

A Wood Joist In A Living Room

A system of unfinished ceiling joists might look like this.

Whether you are expanding your living space or repairing an existing problem area, the need may arise when you have to add or re-install a ceiling joist in your central living area. Such a task begins by clearing out that part of the old ceiling so that a new board can be installed. If you are adding to your living area or changing the structural arrangement of the ceiling joists, be sure to have the new work designed or approved by a qualified builder or architect.

Instructions

1. Clear the area where the joist will be attached to head plates. Make sure the wood surfaces are void of all nails, plaster or any extraneous material.

2. Measure the space between the two walls to 1/16th of an inch. This will be the length of the new ceiling joist.

3. Examine the framing lumber to make sure it is not twisted or bowed. Do this by holding one end of the board at eye level, closing one eye and sighting down the length of the board. If the plank is badly bowed or twisted, find a piece of straight lumber.

4. Prepare the surface box header. Clear any nails or extraneous material from the surface box header with a pry bar.

5. Cut one end of the board with a circular saw and speed square. Mark your measurement and make the other end cut.

6. Set the joist in place. Place a few cedar shims, nails, joist hanger and hammer in your tool belt and put the joist into place with the help of an assistant. If your measurements are accurate and if the walls are square, the joist will slide into place with enough tension to hold the board in place. If the board is too long, take it down and plane off a very small slice; if it is too short, place a shim at one or both ends to make the joist fit.

7. Attach a joist hanger to each end of the joist with #12 or #16 common nails. The joist hanger wraps around the bottom and two sides of the joist at the very point where the end of the joist meets the face of the box plate. Drive in framing nails at angles so they pass through the joist, the face plate and the metal joist hanger, which has predrilled holes for the nails.

Tags: joist hanger, ceiling joist, ceiling joists, extraneous material, face plate, into place

Proper Bathroom Lighting

A well-lit bathroom is a welcome retreat.

Proper lighting techniques can transform a bathroom into a warm and inviting area. Light in a bathroom should be bright but not harsh, and works best when it is layered. Combining a few key lighting elements can help you create an ambient glow that enhances your bathroom decor and compliments your reflection in the mirror.

Task Lighting

Task lighting provides enough illumination for you to perform tasks in front of a mirror, such as shaving and applying beauty products. Avoid canned or recessed fixtures because they cast unattractive shadows over the face. Instead, place fixtures containing two or four bulbs above mirrors, or frame the mirror with globe lamp strips. Wall sconces placed at eye level on either side of the mirror help to layer light. Cove lighting hides light bulbs under cornices or ledges and is a great way to provide bright indirect light. Reduce glare by avoiding fixtures with exposed bulbs, or use frosted bulbs instead. Use halogen and incandescent light bulbs to give off the most flattering glow. Strip or compact fluorescent light bulbs may be used, but make sure you choose products that give off a warm light. Neodymium light bulbs are also an option. They imitate sunlight and illuminate a truer color spectrum that is useful when applying makeup.

General Lighting

Use adequater lighting in shower, bathtub and toilet locations. Canned or recessed lighting may be used in these areas. A dimming option is a good idea, especially over bathtubs. Use UL-rated light bulbs that are approved for damp locations to ensure safety. Soften light and lessen glare by using frosted glass diffusers with halogen or warm fluorescent flood lights. Use baffle trims to redirect light toward corner edges or wall surfaces. Recessed lighting is also a good way to illuminate the walls and ceiling.

Accent Lighting

A lamp placed on a vanity table, counter or bathroom island adds warmth and character to the area. It will provide more light and radiate a candlelike glow that is appealing on all skin tones. Be sure to avoid placing lamps near sinks or other damp areas because of the risk of electric shock. Use recessed lighting applied under the toe kick as a night light. Take care not to overuse accent lighting in the bathroom.

Considerations

Over lighting a bathroom is better than not having enough light. Install dimmers that let you control the light level and set the mood. Do not to use cool fluorescent light bulbs; they can make skin appear unhealthy. Maximize the use of natural light whenever possible. Glass block windows and sky or moon lights are attractive options.

Tags: light bulbs, fluorescent light, fluorescent light bulbs, glow that, lighting bathroom

Decorate An Orange Bathroom

Orange towels and other accessories will give a bathroom a fresh look.

Infuse a bathroom with color and energy by decorating it with an orange color scheme. Orange ranges in shades from soft peach to vibrant coral, and every hue in between. Choose the shade that matches your decor style or design theme the best, to create a personalized bathroom look. If the bathroom already features orange floor tiles or walls, complement them with matching colors and bathroom accessories.

Instructions

1. Choose an orange shade or a design theme to decorate around. Pick a complementing color combination, such as apricot, chocolate brown and ecru. Decide on a design theme that works with the color orange, such as an island or beach-inspired space.

2. Paint the bathroom walls orange to set the stage for the decor look. Choose a soft orange color to give the room a warm, earthy touch. Brush on bright coral paint to enhance a tropical d cor theme.

3. Hang a decorative shower curtain featuring the color orange. Create a natural look with a curtain featuring a cream-colored backdrop and soft orange and yellow tulip or rose patterns. Go for an island-inspired style with a shower curtain featuring a turquoise blue background and bright orange, red and yellow tropical fish designs.

Wood Panel A Wall

Create a warm and inviting room with paneling.

Installing wood paneling is an effective and aesthetically pleasing way to cover imperfections and minor damage on walls. Paneling cannot cover some types of damage including mold, wet walls or severe bowing. Homeowners can hang wood paneling over existing drywall, plaster or exposed wall studs. Paneling is available as sheet panels made to resemble individual planks or as individual planks. Sheet paneling generally comes with a finish whereas planks either are finished or require sanding and finishing.

Instructions

Plank Paneling

1. Remove all molding from the walls.

2. Nail furring strips horizontally to each wall spaced 24 inches apart. Secure furring strips to the wall studs with nails. Begin at the ceiling and end at the floor even if this means some of the furring strips will lay closer than 24 inches apart. Furring strips are thin pieces of wood that will support the planks and prevent them from putting stress on drywall or plaster and pulling out of the wall.

3. Inspect the strips for gaps between the existing wall and the furring strips. Coat wood shims with wood glue and insert them in between the furring strip and the wall. Tap them in place with a mallet if necessary.

4. Position the first plank at a corner and drive finishing nails through the plank into the furring strip on both the right and left side of the plank. If you are using tongue and groove planks, drive the finishing nails through the tongue and into the furring strip. Drive nails through the plank into each furring strip. Place a nail set over the finishing nail and strike with a hammer to countersink the nails.

5. Continue to set planks abutted next to each other and nail into the furring strips. If you are using tongue and groove planks, slide the grooved side into the tongue and nail in. Make cuts as necessary with a circular saw or saber saw equipped with a standard blade.

Sheet Paneling

6. Remove all molding from the walls. Sand high spots with a 180-grit sandpaper to level the surface. Measure and mark cutouts on the unfinished side of the paneling. Cut out the marked areas with a saber saw or jig saw.

7. Apply nickel-sized dots of construction adhesive to the back of the paneling every 3 to 4 inches from top to bottom. Position the paneling against the wall beginning in a corner. Leave a one-eighth-inch space at the corner. Leave a one-quarter-inch gap at the top and bottom that you will hide with molding later. Use wood shims to ensure the correct space.

8. Place a level along the side of the panel to check for plumb. If the bubble is not in the center, adjust the panel with wood shims until the bubble lies in the center. Place a level along the top of the panel. If the bubble does not lie in the center, adjust the panel until it does and keep in place with wood shims.

9. Run a gloved hand over the entire surface of the panel. Press the panel to the wall to gain good adhesion. Continue to apply nickel-size dots of adhesive to the unfinished side of the panel and press it in place until paneling covers all walls. Allow the construction adhesive to set for one to two hours.

10. Locate the wall studs with a stud finder. Drive finishing nails through the paneling into the studs. Try to nail the paneling in along the recessed lines to hide the nails. Place a nail set over the nail head and strike with a hammer to countersink the nails. Cover the nail heads with wood putty.

Tags: furring strip, furring strips, nails through, with wood, wood shims, finishing nails

Design A Zen Living Room

Miniature Zen gardens are popular accessories in a Zen-style room.

Asian-influenced decor is a popular choice for homes. For people who would love to bring a Far East flair to their living room, consider the Zen style. This style favors simplicity in design and accessories. Because this type of living room isn't cluttered with lots of accessories, it promotes a feeling of serenity and peace. Additionally, because of the popularity of this style, furniture and accessories are usually quite readily available in local stores.

Instructions

1. Buy some jade green paint at the home and garden store and paint your walls.

2. Install Japanese sliding screen room dividers that feature images of cranes or Japanese calligraphy if you want to add a decorative element. Otherwise search for plain beige-colored screens with bamboo or lacquer support bars.

3. Place woven mats on the floor. Look for mats that have a bit of black or jade green trim around the outside. Select one large mat for the center of the room along with several smaller mats to place under plants or other decorative objects.

4. Buy a futon couch. Look for a frame made of black lacquer or honey stained wood. Make sure that the covering comes in a simple color like beige. Add a few simply designed throw pillows to the couch in a color that matches the walls. Hang matching curtains on the window. Make sure these are devoid of fancy ruffles; Zen favors simplicity of design.

5. Adorn your fireplace mantel with a row of simple tea lights in glass votive cups. Select Zen colors for the candles like Chinese red, jade green or off-white. If you buy more than one color, alternate them to add some variety.

6. Add some life to your living room by placing some bamboo plants in spots around the room. You can feature large clusters of plants or add a few to places like the mantel.

7. Light your room with Japanese lantern-style lighting. Look for both tabletop lamps as well as floor lamps to ensure that your living room will have the proper amount of light without looking harsh.

8. Decorate your walls with framed Japanese woodcut prints.

9. Select accent pieces like Japanese pottery, simple flower arrangements featuring Asian florals, Buddha statues, miniature Zen rock gardens and waterfall sculptures.

Tags: living room, jade green, favors simplicity, favors simplicity design, Make sure, simplicity design

Install Hardiplank

House sided with HardiPlank

HardiPlank™ is the registered trademark name for fiber cement lap siding manufactured by James Hardie International. It is available with a variety of textured finishes to give you the look and feel of wood siding, yet the product is resistant to fire, termites and rot. What's more, it comes sealed and primed, ready for you to paint in your favorite color scheme. Take the time to install it correctly to ensure that the product performs to your expectations.

Instructions

1. Decide whether you will face nail or blind nail your HardiPlank™ to install it. The difference? Face nails go into the face of the plank and are visible when the job is done; blind nails are hidden by the layer of planks above. Use galvanized 6d nails or 2-inch siding nails for face nailing; use 2-inch siding nails or 11ga roofing nails for blind nailing.

2. Install HardiPlank™ directly over wood or steel studs (16 or 24 iinches on center) or directly to 7/16-inch sheathing. You can also install it over foam insulation. The manufacturer warns that you must include a water-resistant barrier under the product (roofing felt is a cost-effective moisture barrier) to keep water out.

3. Before you start installing your siding, install a strip of 1/4-inch lath along the entire length of the wall at its base. When you nail your first course of planks over the lath, your planks will be set at the correct angle.

4. Measure and cut your siding planks to length with shears (the preferred method) or with a circular saw using a carbide-tipped blade. You can also use a carbide score and snap knife to score the planks prior to snapping them.

5. Install the first course of planks over the water-resistant barrier, flush with the bottom of the lath strip. Attach planks to studs with a nail. If you are face nailing, drive nails 3/4 to 1 inch above bottom of plank. If you are blind nailing, drive nails 1 inch below top of plank. Drive your nails in straight and make sure they are flush with the surface of the plank. Do not overpound the nails -- you don't want to leave indentations in the planking.

6. When you get to the end of a plank, place your last nail 3/8 inch from the end. Butt the ends of two planks so there is some modest contact between them. If you leave a space between planks, you'll need to caulk it when you finish the job.

7. Install your second course of planking (and all subsequent courses) with a minimum 1 1/4-inch overlap (remember, it's lap siding) over the course below. Stagger your joints to help keep moisture out of the walls.

Tags: 2-inch siding, 2-inch siding nails, blind nailing, course planks, course planks over

Bathroom Vanity Cabinet Installation Instructions

Whether you're replacing the vanity cabinet as part of a bathroom remodeling project or installing a new cabinet in new construction, once the style and size has been determined, the actual installation is a matter of following a procedure used by carpenters and cabinet makers to secure the cabinet in place and lay the groundwork for the plumbing and countertop installation to follow.

Instructions

1. Clean the floor area where the cabinet is to be installed thoroughly to remove any dirt or debris.

2. Measure the center lines of the water supply piping and drain line coming out of the wall and transfer these measurements to the back surface of the vanity cabinet.

3. Use a jigsaw or hole saw to cut the openings for the plumbing connections in the back of the vanity cabinet.

4. Locate the wall studs behind the vanity cabinet location and mark the center line of each stud just above the cabinet height.

5. Position the vanity cabinet in place, making certain to feed the water supply lines and drain pipe through the holes drilled in Step 3, and push it tightly against the wall. The rear vertical edge of both side walls should be tight to the wall surface. Shim the base of the cabinet as necessary to align these edges against the wall, and use a level to make certain the top of the cabinet remains level from side to side and back to front.

6. Attach the rear top rail of the cabinet to the wall at the wall studs located in Step 4 with 2.5-inch plated screws.

7. Use a framing square to verify that the cabinet sides are square to the rear wall and secure the base of the cabinet to the floor with 8d finish nails, toenailed at an approximate 60-degree angle at both sides and the front toe kick board. Be sure to also secure any shims added to level the cabinet. Use a nail set to set all of the finish nails used to secure the base.

Tags: vanity cabinet, against wall, base cabinet, cabinet place, finish nails, secure base, vanity cabinet

Refurbishing An Old Brass Chandelier

Adding a few personal touches to a brass chandelier can create a signature piece for a room.

Whether you want a Victorian decor or a modern look in your home, an old, brass chandelier can be remade to fit your needs. How you tackle this trash-to-treasure project is going to depend on the brass finish found on the piece. You would handle laminated brass differently than bare metal. Once you clean and polish the chandelier, you can decide what statement you want to make, apply some accessories and then hang your new light.

Instructions

1. Remove the bulbs from the chandelier and then wipe the surface down with a clean, damp cloth. This will allow you to look at the brass to determine if it is laminated or not. Laminated brass will have a clear coat or finish. If the brass is tarnished, it is not laminated.

2. Screw bulbs into the sockets and plug the chandelier into an outlet. Check to ensure the bulbs light up. If no bulbs light, examine the cord and plug. Replace the cord if it appears frayed or the chandelier does not light. Kits are available for cord replacement. Follow the instructions provided with the kit for application.

3. Replace any bulbs that are broken or not lighting. If a new bulb fails to light, turn the socket clockwise to tighten it. If the bulbs still does not work, have a technician check the wiring before you hang the light. Some of the wires may be broken or loose.

4. Clean and buff the brass with a polish if it is bare brass. Follow the directions on the product for proper application. Laminated brass will only require a good cleaning with warm water. Avoid using any detergent or cleanser. This may mar the surface of the chandelier.

5. Spray paint the metal for a more contemporary look. Cover the sockets with painter's tape to protect them. Apply one coat of spray-on primer and one top coat in the color of your choice. For example, you might choose a gold-tone for a traditional appearance or paint the chandelier the same color as your walls for modern decor.

6. Drape clear or colored beads from one socket to the next on the chandelier. This will add a touch of elegance to your light. Attach the end of your beads on the brass surface with a strong glue suitable for metal. Pull the beads around the chandelier, wrapping them once around each spire. Allow the beads to hang loosely between each tier of the chandelier. Experiment as you hang the beads until you find a look that pleases you.

7. Add small, shades or decorative bulbs to the chandelier. The shades are available in craft stores and sit over the top of each spire on the chandelier. The shades perch on top of the bulbs. Decorative bulbs can be found at local hardware or home stores.

Tags: brass chandelier, brass will, bulbs light, chandelier shades, color your, each spire

Install A Wood Stair Nose Over Carpet

How Do I Install a Wood Stair Nose Over Carpet?

Installing a wood stair nose over your carpet provides a strong and decorative finish over the front portion of your staircase. This is the area where the riser meets the tread. The nose helps protect the edge of your stairs from wear and tear. If you have a carpeted stairway, this helps improve traction.

Instructions

1. Check the nosing of your staircase carefully. Your stair nose may have a rounded, bullnose or square profile. Make sure that your stair thread has the same profile as the nosing to provide a secure fit.

2. Measure the exact width of each stair. Transfer the dimensions to the stair edging and mark the right measurements at the back of every piece.

3. Cut each trim length. Mark these at the back of every section in order to guide the cuts. Do not combine different or multiple pieces of trip to cover one stair. Use your full-length single piece for every stair to come up with a safer and clearer appearance.

4. Place each trim section over the respective stair. Hold your edging tight to your stair nosing. Predrill the holes for your fasteners. Predrill the holes on all fastener locations on your edging.

5. Screw your trim to your stairs with the fasteners. Use the wood screws if there are no fasteners provided. Install the fasteners at the predrilled holes on each trim, or at every interval indicated in your manufacturer's installation instructions.

6. Install the cover plate at the top of each nose piece to cover your fasteners. The cover may click or snap in place depending on the edging type. Some models' backing is self-adhesive, allowing the user to secure them to the nose directly. Align the cover plate accurately.

Tags: each trim, back every, cover plate, Install Wood, Install Wood Stair, Nose Over Carpet, Over Carpet

Light A Pilot Light On A Trane Furnace

Trane has been manufacturing high-efficiency, integrated home heating systems for more than a century. A key component to any Trane furnace's efficiency is the proper operation of the unit's pilot light, which ignites the burners to heat a home when they're signaled by the thermostat that the room temperature has dropped below the desired level. When the pilot light has gone out, relighting it is a simple and safe procedure.

Instructions

1. Set the central furnace thermostat to "Off" or the lowest temperature option.

2. Access the furnace controls by opening the metal door at the bottom front side of the Trane furnace.

3. Rotate the gas control dial to the "Off" position and wait five minutes to allow any residual gas to dissipate.

4. Locate the end of the pilot light tube. Trane pilot light tubes are found toward the rear of the chamber, below the furnace burner coil, with the brass tip pointed upward at a slight angle.

5. Set the pilot light control dial to "Pilot," and then depress and hold down the dial.

6. Hold the flame of a fireplace lighter or match at the tip of the pilot light tube to ignite the flame, continuing to hold down the control dial for 90 seconds.

7. Release the gas control dial and turn it to the "On" position, with the pilot light remaining lit. If the pilot light is extinguished when the control dial is released, repeat Steps 5 and 6.

8. Close the furnace access door.

Tags: pilot light, control dial, hold down, light tube, pilot light, pilot light tube

Install A Ceiling Fan On A Wooden Beam

Ceiling fans go under any type of ceiling, even the unfinished ones. You can install a ceiling fan to a wooden beam on an unfinished ceiling, for example, in a basement. Hardware store or home and garden supply shops have ceiling fans and you will use tools that most households already have on hand, but which the hardware store has if needed. You will need supplies from the hardware store as well.

Instructions

1. Trip the circuit breaker that supplies electricity to the area where the ceiling fan is going. Place a ladder beneath the wooden beam. Measure across from the wooden beam to the nearest electrical junction box mounted on the ceiling and record the measurement.

2. Place the ceiling fan's motor housing face down on a table. Strip a 1/2 inch of insulation off the ends of the wires attached to the bottom of the fan using wire strippers. Dispose of the cut insulation in the trash.

3. Turn the housing face up on the table. Place the flat end of each of the fan blades against the clamps on the housing. Screw metal screws through the holes already in the fan blades and into the clamps using an electric screwdriver.

4. Cut three lengths of electric wire from the electric wire spool, each to the same measurement as you recorded, using a wire cutters or scissors. Strip a 1/2 inch of insulation from both ends of all of the wires. Dispose of the cut insulation in the trash.

5. Wrap an end of each of the wires around the ends of the wires attached to the ceiling fan. Twist a screw-tab connector over each pair of twisted wires. Affix a paper sticker to the free ends of each wire. Write the color of the wire from the ceiling fan that is attached to each of the wires; the colors will be black, white and copper.

6. Run the ends of the wires that have the paper stickers on them through the hole in the center of the ceiling mount plate. Place the ceiling fan on the top rung of the ladder.

7. Place the ceiling mount plate against the bottom of the wooden beam. Screw wood screws through the pre-cut holes in the plate and into the beam using the electric screwdriver. Place the ceiling fan against the ceiling mount plate. Screw metal screws through the pre-cut holes in the fab and into the plate using an electric screwdriver.

8. Run the wires across the top of the wooden beam until you come to the electrical junction box. Staple the wires to the beam with U-clamp staples using a staple gun.

9. Loosen the screws on the electrical junction box with the electric screwdriver. Remove the "black" labeled sticker from the end of the wire. Wind the end of the wire around the screw on the electrical junction box that already has a black wire wrapped around it. Repeat this procedure with the other wires that have "white" and "copper" labeled stickers on their ends. Tighten the screws.

10. Dispose of the stickers in the trash. Place the ladder away. Restore the electric power.

Tags: electric screwdriver, electrical junction, ends wires, Place ceiling, ceiling mount