Make Crown Molding With A Router

Crown molding is the fancy trim that lines the corner of a room between the ceiling and the walls. There are crown moldings available in a number of styles on the market today, but you can also make your own molding. The difficulty of this project depends on the pattern you are trying to create. If you keep it simple, making your own crown molding can be as easy as making one pass over the wood with a single router bit. If you want a more complex pattern, you will need a little more skill and several router bits.

Instructions

1. Decide on the width of your molding. Crown molding ranges in size from less than 2 inches in width to almost 2 feet in width. The size of your molding depends on the height of the room and your personal tastes. The average molding width is 4 to 5 inches. The thickness of the molding, or how far it comes out from the wall, also varies. You can either have a thin strip of 1 to 2 inches, or your molding can extend 4 to 5 inches out on the ceiling, as well. Look in design magazines or at pre-fabricated crown moldings in home improvement stores for a pattern idea.

2. Measure your room. The total perimeter of the room will be the amount of wood you need to buy. Add 10 feet to your number. You will need the extra for practice.

3. Buy your wood. Hardwoods such as oak, maple and cherry are the best if you plan to leave your trim unpainted. Softer woods such as pine and fir are easier to carve and less expensive. If you are going to paint your crown molding, softwood will be easier to work with and more cost-effective. If you want a molding 2-inches thick and 5-inches wide, get your boards cut to this size. If you want 5-inch by 5-inch crown molding, get 5-inch by 5-inch posts. You might be able to find them in the porch or fencing sections of a home improvement store, or you might have to have them cut to size.

4. Choose your router bits. There are hundreds of router bits just for molding. The router bits that you need depend on the type of design you are trying to create. If you are attempting to match an existing pattern in your home, bring a small piece of the molding to the hardware store with you. Try to match the bit to the marks on the pattern. Complex patterns will take more than one bit. You will need one bit for curving, one for notches and so on.

5. Start simple. Unless you are an expert with the router, creating your own crown molding is not an easy task. The more basic your pattern is, the more likely you will be able to produce it successfully.

6. Make a test strip. Use a 5-foot section of your extra wood, and work with your router bits. Try to make the basic body of the crown molding first. The main design is more than likely a deep curve that goes into the middle of the molding. Attach your curving bit to your router and attempt to create this curve on the first 6 inches of the molding. If it is not what you envisioned, or if the cut is not uniform, try again on the next 6 inches. Keep doing it until you get it right. Once you have got the main outline down, you can move onto the individual details. Keep practicing and don't move on to your actual molding pieces until you've gotten your cuts exactly as you want them. If you run out of space on this test strip, don't worry. That's why you bought 10 extra feet.

7. Do all of your cuts with one bit at the same time. If your crown molding design takes several router bits, cut all of the pieces of your molding with that bit before moving on to the next bit. For instance, if you are using three bits, a cove bit for your curve, a design bit, and a roundover bit for a rounded edge, do the curve cuts on all of your molding pieces. Then, move on to your design cuts on all of your pieces. Finally, do the rounded edges. Doing the same type of cut on all of your pieces at once will give you more consistency than doing one piece of molding at a time. When your cuts are finished, line them up side-by-side and check for consistency in your cuts. If they look close enough, paint or stain your moldings. Now, they are ready to be put up.

Tags: router bits, your molding, crown molding, your crown, your crown molding

Install A Ceiling Fan Where A Light Exists

You can install a ceiling fan where there is now a ceiling light. You will need to install a support brace, that's all!

Today's ceiling fan designs make it feasible to install these units in homes with standard-height ceilings (seven to eight feet).

There are numerous options, and installing one where a light fixture now exists is not that difficult to do.

Instructions

1. To begin:

Be sure to read and follow all instructions that come with the fan unit and fan-support brace, which may differ from instructions given here.

Assuming your local regulations permit you to perform minor electrical (etc.) work, proceed as follows:

SAFETY:

Wear protective equipment as necessary (recommend safety glasses, gloves, dust mask at minimum).

Follow safe ladder use guidelines (see link below)

Practice safe lifting techniques (see link below)

Follow manufacturers' instructions for safe use of tools needed to perform this task.

2. Installation:

Turn off power to the circuit feeding the existing ceiling light (i.e., remove fuses, switch off circuit breakers in the circuit panel).

Note: Be sure to secure a legibly printed label/tag at the circuit panel, to alert anyone who might potentially re-energize the circuits that you are working on the system.

Label should read: "DO NOT TOUCH! I AM WORKING ON ELECTRICAL SYSTEM", and should include your name and the location of the work being done (especially if in a multi-dwelling unit).

3. Remove existing light fixture (remove globe or diffuser; remove cover; disconnect wiring; unscrew fixture from electrical box).

4. Remove existing electrical box (using small pry-bar through the existing hole, carefully pry the electrical box from the ceiling joist it is attached to).

5. Determine if the existing hole is located to allow the fan-support brace electrical box to line up without expanding or moving the ceiling hole.

6. If the existing hole needs to be expanded, simply mark and cut the ceiling with the drywall saw, taking note of any wiring in the ceiling to prevent damaging it.

If you need to create a new hole, position it so the existing wiring will reach it comfortably, then trace the shape of the electrical box in the new location; drill a 3/8" starter hole; then cut the shape out with the drywall saw, taking note of any wiring in the ceiling to prevent damaging it.

7. Install the fan-support brace, securing it firmly into position between the ceiling joists and aligning the attached electrical box with the ceiling hole.

Install the fan mounting hardware provided with your new fan unit.

8. Note: You might need a friend to assist with lifting your fan unit up to the ceiling, as some fans are a bit heavy for one person to maneuver into position, attach wiring and secure the unit.

Lift the fan unit into position and connect the power wiring to the fan motor wiring.

Secure the fan unit to the fan mounting hardware.

Secure the mounting hardware cover.

Install the fan blades.

9. Turn power back on at the circuit breaker.

Note: It is always a good idea to have a friend stand by in the room while you turn the power back on, just so they can alert you if any sparks start flying for some reason!

You may need to work out a communication system if the panel is far away from the room (i.e., in a multi-dwelling unit).

10. Test your new fan for proper operation.

Note: Most ceiling fans have one switch for clockwise or counterclockwise rotation, and one switch for fan speeds.

ENJOY your new ceiling fan!

Tags: existing hole, fan-support brace, into position, mounting hardware, ceiling hole

Wash A Wood Paneled Wall

Wood paneled surfaces will dull over time without a clean up. Wood paneling needs regular cleaning to keep it looking fresh and new. Actually, you are cleaning the protective surface on the wood paneling. Paneling has a protective coating to keep from being damaged by grease, oil and other substances. It is easy to clean the wood paneling's protective surface.

Instructions

1. Remove the dust on the surface of the paneling with a vacuum cleaner. Many vacuum cleaners come with brush attachments. Use the brush attachment on the vacuum to remove dust and loose dirt from the paneling.

2. Inspect the panel surface for cracks and imperfections on the protective surface. You may need to repair cracks or imperfections by reapplying a light coat of flat coat polyurethane to the damaged area.

3. Mix liquid dishwasher detergent with warm water. Liquid dish washing detergent does an excellent job at half the price of commercial wood cleaners. There are, however, many commercial wood cleaners available. Murphy's Oil Soap is a good alternative. Remember to follow the directions on the label.

4. Apply the liquid cleaner to the wall paneling with a sponge or soft cloth. Work from the bottom to the top of the wall. The bottom-to-top cleaning prevents drip streaks from appearing on the wall. Clean one small section at a time.

5. Wipe the paneling with a soft dry towel. Do not allow the cleaning solution to air dry on the wall. Air drying creates streaks. Wipe in the direction of the wood grain, buffing the surface with light strokes. This method will create a nice clean matte sheen to the paneling. You will be amazed at how good the wall looks and how easy it was to clean.

Tags: paneling with, protective surface, commercial wood, commercial wood cleaners, cracks imperfections, easy clean

Cfl Floodlights Vs Led Floodlights

Modern lighting, like CFL and LED floodlights, has many advantages over older lights.

Conserving energy is gaining in popularity. It helps the environment. It also saves money on electric bills. These factors have people changing out old incandescent lights for newer, more energy-efficient bulbs. It's best to understand the options before making a purchase. Two green options for floodlights are CFL and LED bulbs. Each has advantages and disadvantages.

CFL

CFL stands for compact fluorescent light. CFL lights are smaller versions of the large fluorescent light tubes that have been in use for decades. Modern technology and innovations have allowed this type of light (it works by heating gas in the light) to be used inside various types of bulbs. This application provides a more even light source than a traditional fluorescent tube. The light a CFL produces is quite similar to an incandescent bulb's output.

LED

LED stands for light-emitting diode. LEDs have been used in pen lights, instrument panels and other applications for many years. In those items, though, only one LED was used at a time. Current LED bulbs are made by grouping large numbers of LEDs to produce one larger light source. Both CFL and LED bulbs, therefore, represent a modern application based on new uses of older technology.

Fix Holes In Acoustical Ceilings

Popcorn ceilings present a challenge if something punches through the material. Since you can't repair this type of acoustical ceiling like a regular ceiling, you're going to have to do this project in two phases. First, the hole must be addressed, and then the patch must be textured to match the rest of the ceiling. Please note you will need what is called an air hopper for this project -- you can rent one from a local hardware store or tool rental company.

Instructions

1. Determine if your acoustical ceiling has asbestos. If the ceiling was installed before 1970, there is a high probability that it contains asbestos. Do not attempt to repair this yourself. Call an asbestos removal company to handle the issue.

2. Protect yourself and the work area. Put on safety glasses to keep bits of the textured ceiling from getting in your eyes. A mask is also important as well as a long-sleeved shirt to protect your skin. Lay dropcloths underneath the area and secure them into place with masking tape.

3. Cut away a section around the hole. Use a utility knife to cut through the drywall underneath the popcorn texture. Cut out a perfect square, preferably about a foot long and wide. Scrape off an additional two inches of texture around all the sides of your hole to give you a spot to tape. Use a drywall knife to scrape the popcorn texture away.

4. Create a drywall patch. Cut a panel of drywall to fit your hole. Screw this into the ceiling joist above it with drywall screws. Apply at least two screws. If the ceiling joints are not located directly above the patch, you will need to use more drywall tape to create a secure bond.

5. Apply drywall tape. Tape off the joints around your patch with self adhesive drywall tape. Press it on firmly.

6. Apply joint compound. Cover over the taped areas with joint compound. Use a putty knife and scrape off any excess as you work. Since the ceiling will be textured, you don't have to worry too much about sanding this down.

7. Apply the ceiling texture. Use an air hopper and popcorn ceiling texture mix. Spray this over the patched area until it matches the rest of the ceiling.

Tags: drywall tape, acoustical ceiling, ceiling texture, joint compound, knife scrape, popcorn texture, repair this

African Inspired Bathroom Ideas

Use organic patterns, like a zebra's stripes, to decorate in African style.

Decorating your bathroom in an African inspired way can give you a chance to explore a mix of organic and luxury items and materials. Safari-style design includes warm earthy tones with splashes of natural texture and color. There is a wide range of possibilities available when considering this theme; the trick is to find something you like and focus on that element.

Animal Prints

Animal prints can provide incredible inspiration for a bathroom. Consider the zebra. The geometric black and white stripes can be added easily in many ways. Look for black, white or patterned towels and a zebra-striped shower curtain. Find some faux zebra skin and create a covered tissue holder, or use it as a rug or tank cover. Glue small pieces to a solid black frame that surrounds a print of zebras on the savanna. The same ideas can apply to any animal print.

Earthy Colors

Earthy tones in browns, rusts and gold and naturally occurring colors like green and muted purple are the basis of an African-inspired bath. Find a rich tone for the walls and carry it through the rest of the room. Find some inspiring patterned material that includes your wall color and make your own shower curtain or floor covering. Use shades that match the color for towels and accessories. Keep the colors rich and earthy to create the perfect background and emphasize your safari theme.

Accessories

Add African masks to the walls to emphasize the theme.

Going wild with your bathroom accessories is the phrase to remember. Safari themed accessories can include elephant, zebra, giraffe, or lion figurines and candleholders as well as tissue holders. Include natural-material baskets to hold vanity items and metal bowls for soap and toothbrushes. Wall accessories can include African masks or tribal folk art, as well as framed pictures of African animals or scenes. Include greenery in your bath, either live or silk, and place them in African-inspired pottery or bamboo vases. Remember to keep it organic, using basic metals and natural materials for your accessories.

Tags: accessories include, African masks, black white, Find some, shower curtain, your bathroom

Design Apartment Living Rooms

A living room is designed according to its function in the apartment.

Living room design starts with a decision about how the room will be used. Will it be a place for formal entertaining, or will it be the center of family living? Will it be a hybrid of the two extremes, possibly including an office nook, quiet reading corner or dining area? Once you decide what functions you expect your living room to fulfill, you will be on your way to its design. The room's interior decoration is a separate issue altogether, truly a matter of taste. The room's design, however, involves a sort of logic and a sense of balance.

Instructions

Designing Your Apartment Living Room

1. Decide how you're going to use the room. Will you only formally entertain adult guests? Will the room be the magnet for the family as a hybrid living room and TV room? Will you need to have a children's play area? Will the room also need to serve as a dining room or office? These are all questions that need to be addressed before drawing up a plan for the space.

2. Draw the room to scale on graph paper, noting its windows, doors, fireplace and the room's relationship to the rest of the apartment. Decide the room's focal point. Is it a dominant wall where you will hang a large painting, or is it the fireplace? Mark the layout accordingly.

3. Consider the traffic pattern possibilities. You should never have to walk through a furniture arrangement. That is, make certain the route from the front room to the kitchen, for example, avoids your having to take a circuitous route around chairs and sofas. This is a safety consideration, as well as a matter of livable design.

4. Cut scale-sized pieces of paper to represent the key furnishings you'll be using. You will be able to slide them around the scale drawing of the living room, making it easy to envision how different groupings may fit in the room. You can experiment with ease, trying out myriad arrangements until you arrive at one that's pleasing to you.

5. Imagining a room from overhead may spark creative design ideas.

Arrange the paper cut-outs starting with the largest furnishings, perhaps the sofa or the dining table. Experiment with unconventional placements, perhaps angling a sofa instead of placing it parallel to a wall. If you don't like the effect, you can just slide the cut-out into a new position instead of straining with a heavy sofa. Pay attention to the traffic pattern.

6. Set the cut-outs for secondary furniture pieces, like tables, lamps and bookcases, where they will be needed. Remember your need for a functional room. Even the most expensive fabrics and furniture pieces will not make up for a nonfunctional design. The room is first to be lived in, not just looked at.

Tags: living room, design room, furniture pieces, room design, room Will, traffic pattern, Will room

A Add Ceiling Light & Switch To An Existing Light Switch

Add an additional light switch at your existing light switch location.

You can use the power supply at a light switch to add a new light and switch, providing you do not exceed the current wattage draw of the breaker supplying electricity to the switch. Add up the current wattage on the electrical circuit you intend to use as the power source. Divide the wattage by 120 volts to obtain the amperage you currently draw on the circuit. If your total equals less than the current amperage size of the breaker, you can safely add an additional light fixture to the circuit.

Instructions

1. Turn off the breaker supplying electricity to the existing light switch inside the main breaker panel.

2. Remove the single-switch cover plate from the existing light switch, using a screwdriver. Turn the dial on a multimeter to 250 AC (alternating current). Touch a prong from the multimeter to a screw on the right side of the existing switch holding a black wire. Touch the other prong of the multimeter to any metal on the switch or electrical switch box. The needle on the multimeter should remain at zero if you turned the correct breaker off. Repeat this test for electricity on the remaining screw holding a black wire to the switch.

3. Remove the two screws holding the existing light switch to the electrical switch box. Pull the switch from the box and loosen the screws on the right side holding the black wires. Pull the two black wires from beneath the two screws on the right side of the existing switch.

4. Untwist the wire connectors holding the two white wires together and holding the two bare copper wires together and pull the two sets of wires apart.

5. Remove the electrical switch box from the existing light switch location. If the switch box is held on the wall with screws, remove the screws with a screwdriver and pull the box from the wall. If the box is held in the wall with nails, place a piece of wood inside the electrical box--taking care not to damage the electrical wires inside the box--and strike the wood with a hammer, loosening the box from the wall. Pull the existing light switch electrical switch box from the wall.

6. Place the template provided with the double-gang remodel switch box over the existing light switch location and trace around it. Carefully cut along the trace line of the double-gang box with a drywall saw to expand the size of the existing light switch location.

7. Place the template provided with the remodel ceiling junction box on the ceiling at the location you chose for your new light fixture. Trace around the template and carefully cut along the trace line of the ceiling junction box template with a drywall saw.

8. Pull a length of 12/2 nonmetallic (NM) electrical cable from your new light fixture location to the existing light switch location. Pull the electrical cable through a knockout at the back of the remodel ceiling junction box and slip the box into the hole you cut in the ceiling. Turn the three screws on the ceiling junction box clockwise to clamp the box into the ceiling.

9. Pull the original wires from the existing light switch location and the new length of 12/2 NM electrical cable through knockouts located in the back of the double-gang remodel switch box. Slip the box into the hole you expanded in the wall and turn the two screws on the double gang box to clamp the box to the wall.

10. Strip the exterior sheath from the new length of 12/2 NM electrical cable with a dual NM wire cutter/stripper at both the new ceiling light location and the existing light switch location. Remove 3/4 inch of insulation off the exposed black and white wires at the existing light switch location and the new ceiling light location.

11. Follow the manufacturer's directions to assemble your new light fixture Twist an orange wire connector onto the black wire from the light fixture and the black wire from the ceiling junction box, connecting them together. Repeat this connection for the white wire from the light and the white wire from the junction box.

12. Twist another orange wire connector onto the bare copper wire from the ceiling junction box in the green wire from the new light fixture to finish the electrical connection for the new light. Attach the new light fixture to the ceiling junction box with the mounting screws provided with your fixture.

13. Cut two pieces of 12-gauge solid black THHN electrical wire 6 inches long. Strip 3/4 inch of insulation off both ends of both wires, creating two black pigtail wires. At the existing light switch location, twist a red wire connector onto the two black pigtail wires and the black power supply wire to connect the three wires together. The power supply wire connects directly to the breaker that supplies electricity to the existing light switch.

14. Reinstall the existing light switch into the new double gang switch box. Twist a black pigtail wire around a screw on the right side of the existing switch and twist the black wire from the original light fixture to the remaining screw on the right side of the existing switch. Attach the existing light switch at the top and the bottom of the double gang switch box, using the screws you removed in Step 3.

15. Add the new switch to the new double-gang switch box. Twist the remaining black pigtail wire around one screw on the right side of the new switch and twist the black wire from the new light fixture around the remaining screw on the right side of the new switch. Attach the new light switch at the top and the bottom of the double-gang switch box, using the screws provided with the new switch.

16. Cover the new double-gang switch box, wiring and two light switches with a double-switch wall plate. Turn on the breaker supplying electricity to the existing light switch and the new light switch inside the main breaker panel.

Tags: light switch, existing light, existing light switch, light fixture, light switch location, switch location, wire from

Modern Bathroom Lighting Ideas

To give your bathroom a modern twist, consider lighting in not only its most practical sense, for illumination, but also for aesthetics, as an important design feature and architectural element in a room for relaxation.

Sconces

Most often affixed beside vanity mirrors to provide direct light without shadows, sconces appeal to the modern consumer for their vintage charm. Reminiscent of a time when candles in wall-mounted holders lighted stairwells and mirrored vanities, the sconce is a fixture rich in romantic style. If you desire a modern look with flexibility, sconces can range in design from Victorian scrolled metalwork to contemporary blown glass. Modern fixtures are also available with a hinged arm for directed lighting.

Track Lighting

Track lighting comes in various forms and shapes for architectural interest as well as focused lighting. Three to six positionable lights, sometimes more, appear on tracks arrayed in parallel, s-curve, round, arced and other configurations, providing customizable task lighting where needed. Lights on the tracks, also known as rail lights, can include halogen, a brighter bulb, with colorful glass shades. Canister mounts, another option, introduce a metallic industrial look popular in bathrooms today. These lights, with their sleek, contemporary lines and focus on both form and function, enhance modern bathrooms and offer an alternative to traditional flush-mount, basic options.

Pendant Lighting

Like the jewelry style that shares its name, pendant lights are suspended, their colorful glass-shaded lights hanging from the ceiling at various heights to create accent lighting. Pendants come in a variety of glass finishes, color combinations, sizes and shapes, including triangular, champagne glass, dome, free form and jeweled. Chandelier style combines several lengths of pendants on one fixture, as does the track-style fixture, covering more area with levels of light in one unit. As an added benefit, pendants can hang anywhere a traditional light fixture can, including above a mirror or over a bathtub, with the pendant's height above the task area offering a personalized touch.

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Convert A Dresser Into A Sink Base

Convert a Dresser Into a Sink Base

Everyone wants an aesthetic that is eye-catching or unusual, and converting an old dresser into a bathroom vanity is an excellent way to achieve this, especially if you are converting an antique dresser. The job needs to be approached with caution, though, because it's almost impossible to repair your dresser if you make a mistake. Be sure that you are willing to sacrifice a well-functioning dresser for this project. Use a dresser that is 30 to 35 inches tall.

Instructions

1. Measure the height from the floor to the wall drain. This measurement will tell you where to drill a hole in the back of your dresser, allowing the sink to drain to the wall.

2. Measure from the wall drain to the top of your dresser. This will help determine how many of the dresser drawers you must remove.

3. Mark where on the top of your dresser you want your vessel bowl to sit. It doesn't matter if the bowl sits in the middle or off to either side.

4. Measure the diameter of the vessel bowl. Divide this number in half, because it will be used to determine where to drill for the faucet.

5. Remove the faces, or fronts, of each drawer. You may need a jig saw to do this.

6. Line the edges of each drawer face with liquid nails, and set them back into place on the dresser. Wait several minutes for the liquid nails to dry.

7. Drill a hole in the back of the dresser for the wall drain using a 1 1/4-inch drill bit. The height will be determined from your earlier measurement.

8. Drill two more holes roughly 4 to 5 inches on both sides of the hole for the wall drain. These two holes allow access to the hot and cold water supplies.

9. Drill a 1 1/4-inch hole in the top of the dresser where you want the center of the vessel bowl to sit.

10. Drill another 1 1/4-inch hole in the top of the dresser for the faucet. The distance from this hole to the hole for the vessel bowl should be half the diameter of the vessel bowl plus one extra inch. Vessel bowl sinks require specific faucets that are considerably taller than your average bathroom faucet.

Tags: wall drain, your dresser, vessel bowl, 4-inch hole, 4-inch hole dresser

Install A Vanity Top

If you have a chipped or outdated vanity, now is the time to put in a new one. You don't have to change your cabinetry that is still probably in good shape. Yes, fall in love with your bathroom again by simply changing the vanity top on your already existing cabinetry. Installing a new vanity top will make the use and view of the bathroom practical and beautiful again.

Instructions

1. Put on your safety glasses and gloves.

2. Turn off the water. If you have water running to the vanity or counter top, you must turn it off by disconnecting the plumbing lines. Place a bucket under the sink. This is to catch any water that may still be in the pipes.

3. Prepare to remove the old vanity but you must first measure the old one to make sure you have a properly sized replacement top. Make sure the mirror is not in the way. If so you may need to unscrew it and temporarily remove it.

4. Remove the old sink. Remove clips from underneath the vanity--break them if you have to. Pry up the sink with your pry bar. You may have to cut the old sealant under the sink with a utility knife before prying up. Lift the sink straight out. If your vanity does not have a sink, simply skip this part and go to the next step.

5. Remove the vanity top. Pry the old vanity top off of the cabinetry. Be careful not to damage the cabinet if you plan to use the same one. Place an old rag under the pry bar while prying, so it will place a cushion to protect the furniture. Again you may have to cut the old sealant under the sink with a utility knife before prying.

6. Clean off any old sealant that might have been left behind during vanity top removal. Scrape off with a utility knife but be careful not to damage the cabinet.

7. Use your caulk gun to place a ring of latex caulk around the top of the cabinet where your old vanity top sat.

8. Sit your new vanity top on the cabinetry--be careful. You may need some help to get this adjusted right. Check to make sure it is level and clean off any sealant that may get on the new vanity top. Once in place, press down and let dry.

Tags: sink with, under sink, utility knife, with utility, with utility knife, your vanity, before prying

Hang Light Fixtures In A Drop Tile Ceiling

Hanging your own light fixture in a drop ceiling will provide light in those dark areas. The most common light that is used for drop ceiling is a fluorescent light fixture. When choosing the size of the light fixture to buy make sure that you choose a proper lumen rating for the area you want to light.

Installation is simple and doing it yourself will save you money.

Instructions

1. Choose the location for your light. You will need to find a location that is parallel to a stud in the original ceiling. Use your stud finder to locate the studs.

2. Screw in two screws to the original ceiling stud if you are using wire. If you are using a chain to hand the light, screw a hook into the original ceiling. Make sure to match the screw or hook locations to each end of the lighting fixture where the chain or wire will attach so that they are in line.

3. Measure what the length is from the original ceiling to where the chain or wire will attach to the light. Cut to the appropriate length.

4. Attach the chain to the hook, or if using wire, wrap around the screw.

5. Attach the chain or wire to the fluorescent light fixture. Take out a drop tile next to it to be able to access the back of the light. Your light is now hanging and ready for wiring and use.

Tags: light fixture, original ceiling, chain wire, Attach chain, chain wire will

Fix Sagging Ceiling Tiles

Fix Sagging Ceiling Tiles

The suspended ceiling method uses ceiling tiles hung from a grid called furring. The furring supports the tiles and keeps them from succumbing to gravity and falling downward. Builders should adhere tiles to the furring with adhesive as well as nails or staples. However, time and/or water damage often leads to tiles sagging from the furring. Another contributing factor of ceiling tile failure is that builders sometimes skip steps and merely glue the tiles. Glue alone does not adequately hold the tiles to the furring. When ceiling tiles begin to sag, glue and staple them to the furring or install external furring. Gluing and stapling will maintain the original look of the ceiling.

Instructions

Staple Onto Furring

1. Locate the furring onto which the sagging tiles originally adhered.

2. Apply ceiling tile adhesive between each sagging tile and its furring with a putty knife.

3. Hold a sagging tile down and staple to the furring with a staple gun.

4. Continue until all tiles are reattached to the furring.

External Furring

5. Cut a two-by-four board to fit the width of the ceiling.

6. Paint or finish the board as desired, and allow it to dry.

7. Locate the furring under the sagging tiles, and apply ceiling tile adhesive to the furring.

8. Screw the two-by-four securely down the seam of the sagging tiles using 3-inch screws.

Tags: ceiling tile, furring with, sagging tiles, ceiling tile adhesive, Locate furring

Paint A Sparkle Texture Ceiling

Update a room by giving a sparkle texture ceiling a brand-new look. Outdated popcorn ceilings often have a bit of sparkle added to the texture and scream the 1970s. Painting over the texture can refresh the room with color and also provide a clean, crisp appearance to a room. Painting a ceiling is more strenuous than painting walls due to the height factor, however, disguising a sparkle ceiling is often worth it.

Instructions

1. Remove all furniture and accessories from the room. Take down pictures and wall decor. Wrap blinds, curtains and drapery in plastic if items cannot easily be removed. Place drop cloths on the floor. Make sure the entire floor is covered. Any remaining furniture should be covered in plastic or drop cloths for paint-spill protection.

2. Decide if you will be using a ladder or small scaffolding to paint the ceiling---both are viable options. Use small scaffolding for increased comfort and a level surface under your feet. Remove any light fixtures or fans if they are in the way. Cover the fixtures with plastic to avoid getting stained with paint. Wrap the light and fan switches with tape to avoid accidentally turning them on while painting---the heat from the light bulbs can melt plastic, and a turning fan can seriously injure a painter.

3. Vacuum the ceilings to remove dirt and grime. Avoid scrubbing harshly, as the texture will fall off. Make sure to remove cobwebs in the corners. Use a damp cloth if a large amount of dirt is present---gently wipe off excess dirt without damaging the ceiling.

4. Use a water-based primer, and apply it with a thick nap roller. Roll the entire ceiling once, and get as close to the edge as possible, leaving about a ½-inch perimeter. Remember that for both paint and primer, a quart of paint covers 100 square feet and a gallon covers 400 square feet. Allow the primer to dry (it dries very quickly and can be painted over in a few hours). Wash out the roller in the sink, and place outside or in a warm area to dry. Do not paint the edge or perimeter of the ceiling; the small amount of latex paint will seal off this area well.

5. Apply a flat latex paint to the ceiling. Use the roller and apply the paint to the ceiling again. Roll evenly, and do not apply a great amount of pressure. Apply a second coat if large amounts of the texture remain unpainted. Stipple any unpainted areas by dipping an old brush into paint and touching up uneven areas.

6. Take an angled brush and dip the tip into the latex paint. Slowly glide the brush along the perimeter---this will be difficult to do because of the texture in the corner. Add small amounts of paint to avoid drips.

7. Look at the ceiling from different angles, and ensure that you have covered the old ceiling color. Label the paint so it can be properly identified later. Clean rollers and all paint supplies in a sink using soap and water. Carefully remove all ladders and paint equipment. Fold drop cloths carefully. Remove all plastic and return all furniture and accessories to the room.

Tags: drop cloths, latex paint, brush into, covers square, covers square feet

Change A Bathroom Light Fixture

Lighting has a terrific impact in every room and should be considered whenever you are redecorating. One sure way to refresh the look of your bathroom is to replace the light fixture.

Instructions

1. Turn off power to the electrical box.

2. Remove the old fixture: Begin by removing the bulbs and shades.

3. Disconnect the wires from the old fixture.

4. Make sure 3/4 inch of copper conductor wire is available; twist the line wire end with the fixture wire. Screw a wire nut over the twisted ends to secure the connection.

5. Insert the mounting screws into the attachment holes by turning a few times to secure. Mount the fixture and rotate to secure it.

6. Tighten the screws of the fixture. Finish the installation with the bulbs and shades.

7. Turn the power back on to the electrical box.

Tags: bulbs shades, Turn power

What Is A Torchiere Lamp

A torchiere lamp is different from a floor lamp in several ways.

According to the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, torchiere lamps first became available in the United States in 1983 -- with a significant growth in sales in the 1990s. Torchiere lamps are available in different designs and provide lighting in large spaces. However, a torchiere lamp with the wrong bulbs can be hazardous so its important to take specific safety precautions when using one.

Description

Torchiere lamps are free-standing lamps with a shallow bowl-shaped light fixture mounted on a stand made of wood, metal or other material. Torchiere lamps typically have a 6-foot stand but torchiere table lamps are made as well. A torchiere lamp is illuminated by a fluorescent, halogen, incandescent, compact fluorescent or other energy-saving bulbs. Some torchieres have dimmers that allow you to adjust the light intensity.

Floor Lamp vs.Torchiere Lamp

Unlike a floor lamp, which provides task lighting, a torchiere lamp provides ambient lighting. This means that torchiere lamps provide general illumination in a space, much like table lamps and ceiling mounted lights do, by reflecting light off the ceiling and walls. The light is soft and covers a larger area than a floor lamp. However, like floor lamps, torchiere lamps are available in different designs from traditional to modern.

Design Ideas

Use a torchiere lamp to light up a dark corner or a space that doesn't have a lot of ambient lighting. For example, place a tall torchiere lamp in the hallway beside a console table or beside a sofa in the living room. A tall torchiere lamp can also be placed beside your bed or in a corner in your bedroom. Likewise, a torchiere table lamp can be placed on a console table in the hallway, on a side table in the living room or on a bedside table.

Safety Tips

Halogen torchiere lamps, specifically torchiere floor lamps, can pose a fire hazard because of the high output of light that they produce. Therefore, it is important to use a halogen bulb of 300 watts or less. For extra safety, install a wire guard over the glass bulb to make it more difficult for flammable materials to touch the lamp's halogen bulb. Additionally, never place the lamp near window treatments or drape clothes over the lamp. Never leave the lamp on unattended and keep children and pets away from the lamp to reduce the likelihood of the lamp tipping over.

Tags: torchiere lamp, torchiere lamp, ambient lighting, available different, available different designs, console table

Tips For Painting Tall Ceiling Stairwells

Using an extension ladder or extension pole will allow you to paint hard-to-reach areas.

Painting a tall stairwell can be a daunting job when you see the height of the ceiling. Before you give up and hire a professional, consider the ways that a handy homeowner could tackle this project on his own. Whether you are comfortable working at heights or prefer to remain on the ground, there are options for painting stairwells. Always secure your ladders to prevent falls and other injuries. Excessively high stairwells may require calling a fully insured professional painter with a scaffolding system.

Single Color Selection

While people with DIY skills may feel perfectly at ease working 15 feet off the ground, many people might find this situation intimidating. Selecting a single color to use for both the walls and the ceiling of your stairwell makes this job easier. When both are the same shade, there's no need to tape the walls or cut in with a brush---jobs that would require close access to the ceiling.

Extension Pole

Painting supply and home improvement stores offer a selection of telescoping extension poles to increase the reach of your paint roller when painting tall walls and ceilings. Some allow you to reach areas more than 20 feet away, although the roller will be harder to control at such distances. Brush adapters are available that screw into the threads of the pole and tightly clamp your brush in place. For small jobs, duct tape will attach a brush snugly to your extension pole.

Extension Ladder

While you can reach your ceiling with an extension pole, painting along the edge of the walls with paint of a different color presents a challenge. However, you can create your own version of a scaffolding system with a ladder and a sturdy plank of wood. With the feet of an extension ladder resting securely against a stair riser and the top of the ladder against the second story wall, Bob Vila suggests positioning a 2 x 6 board between a staircase step and the corresponding, level rung of your ladder. Make sure that your board is in good condition and is able to support your weight before you venture out to paint the edge of your walls. Once you have carefully filled in the edges, you can finish your paint job with your feet firmly planted on the ground.

Tags: extension ladder, extension pole, reach your, scaffolding system, walls with

Modernize A Bathroom Vanity

It's easy to transform old-fashioned and outdated bathroom vanities with a few simple remodeling tricks. Give your 20-year-old vanity a modern and sophisticated look using color and accessories. Don't forget to exchange bathroom hardware, light fixtures and even the shower curtain to complete the bathroom's makeover.

Instructions

1. Remove the vanity doors and decide if you want to replace them with more modern versions. Clean the vanity with a sponge and warm, soapy water. Scrub away all debris, reaching into tight spaces with a cotton swab. Lightly sand the vanity with a medium-grit sanding block. Remove dust by wiping with a tack cloth. Take off all hardware from doors and drawers using a screwdriver.

2. Paint the base cabinet first using satin latex paint. Apply the paint with a mini-roller or a paint brush. Let it dry for four to six hours between coats and do two or three coats. Paint the cabinet doors and drawers. Don't forget to paint both sides of the doors.

3. Buy modern hardware in oil-rubbed bronze, silver or other contemporary finishes. Coordinate with other accessories in the bathroom, including towel bars, toilet paper holders and shower curtain rings. Attach the hardware with a drill and screws.

4. Swap the bathroom mirror with a new one to give the vanity an updated, finished appearance. Use epoxy to set the mirror permanently against the wall.

Tags: doors drawers, shower curtain, vanity with

Decorate Your Living Room With Two Couches

Decorate your living room around two couches by using accent furniture and decorations to complement the couches, pull them together if they don't match or minimize busy patterns. The overall look and feel of your living room should be relaxing and inviting so that you and your family want to spend time there. Create a space with a natural flow by diminishing clutter and working with the natural shape, size and architectural elements that exist in the room.

Instructions

1. Arrange the couches in a way that makes conversation, activities and lounging easy and natural. The arrangement should also appear to flow within the space without appearing awkward or bulky and should work around a focal point such as a fireplace or built-in shelves. For example, a formal living room with no TV and three walls or a lot of open space could have two couches face each other. A room with two walls, less space or a TV as the focal point would probably work better with the couches in an "L" shape.

2. Place a coffee table or ottoman in between two sofas that face each other. For an "L" shaped arrangement, the table or ottoman should be centered in front of your primary couch. It should match both couches.

3. Select an end table to put in between two couches in an "L" shape and perhaps on the other side of one of the couches. For couches that face each other, no end tables are necessary, but you can place one on either side of each sofa. In lieu of an end table, a large floor plant or tree (artificial is fine) would work.

4. Add accessories that pull the couches together using a shared pattern, fabric or color. Toss pillows, throws, an area rug, lamps, floral arrangements, candle groupings or other accents can be placed on a fireplace mantle, entertainment center, end tables, a sofa table or on shelves. Each piece should fall within the shared color or other element of the two couches, especially if they don't match.

5. Paint your walls or hang artwork, pictures or paintings that complement the color scheme and theme of the room. Frame a piece of fabric that matches one of the couches or a toss pillow if you want to create an inexpensive piece of "art" to flow with the room.

Tags: each other, face each, face each other, couches shape, couches that, focal point

Trim Formica Laminate

Use a router to trim Formica.

Formica is brittle and can't be cut with a saw or a knife. A router must be used to trim Formica to prevent chipping or cracking. There are router bits specifically designed to cut a clean edge on countertops or Formica-laminated wood. You can choose from a variety of knife profiles but the most common is the straight cutter bit with a bearing at the bottom that controls the depth of cut.

Instructions

1. Install the Formica cutting bit into the router. Adjust the depth of cut so that the bearing extends down through the router base 1/2 inch. The depth of cut adjusting knob is the only knob on the side of the router.

2. Grab the router with both hands on both sides. There are hand-holds for this purpose on both sides of the router. Set the edge of the router on the laminated top. Don't let the bit touch the Formica.

3. Pull the trigger to start the router. Slide the router on the Formica, letting the bit cut into the Formica until you hit the edge of the wood.

4. Pull the router toward your body as you slide the router along the top of the Formica, letting the bearing on the bit ride along the edge of the wood. When you come to a corner, follow the corner around keeping the bearing tight against the wood.

5. Pull the router along the perimeter of the wood, always keeping the bearing in contact with the edge until the trimmed off Formica falls away. Release the trigger and set the router down.

6. File and polish the edge of the Formica with a small, fine-tooth file. Round the edge slightly with the file to finish.

Tags: both sides, edge wood, Formica letting, keeping bearing, Pull router, router along

Make A Small Living Room Seem Bigger

Make a Small Living Room Seem Bigger

Making small spaces look bigger is one of the biggest challenges often encountered by homeowners. Some see a complete design overhaul as the only solution. However, there is no need to hire an interior decorator to fix this problem because, in most cases, it is possible to do it on your own. If your living room feels uncomfortably small and stuffy, you can use some fairly simple redecorating techniques to make it appear bigger and more open.

Instructions

1. Eliminate clutter. Do not use more than three pieces of any one type decor room accessory, for example vases. Minimize the number of items displayed on the floor, such as potted plants or stereo equipment. Place as many of them as possible on shelves and other furniture units.

2. Make sure that furniture is not blocking any walking pathways in the living room.

3. Opt for a dining table with removable leaves or one that is small in size if your living doubles as the dining room. Smaller tables can be removed and stored away when not needed, helping to make the room appear more spacious.

4. Expand the room visually by place a large wall mirror in such a way that it reflects light or an element you wish to emphasize, for example an attractive view or a door leading to another room.

5. Choose bright colors or light, neutral ones instead of dark colors when treating the walls. Avoid patterned wallpaper, which can overwhelm a small room. Consider using one color theme in two connecting rooms that are in the same line of sight. This technique can eliminate the dividing lines between the two rooms, opening them up.

6. Use sheer curtains to cover windows. Since bright rooms tend to look bigger, be sure to keep them pulled back during the day to bring in as much light into the room as possible.

Tags: Living Room Seem, look bigger, Make Small, Make Small Living, Room Seem, Room Seem Bigger

Make A Small Bathroom Luxurious

Mirrors can add style and the illusion of more area to a small bathroom.

If you are stuck with a small bathroom, you don't necessarily have to settle for an ordinary one. You can transform even a small bathroom space into a luxurious one if you use the right tools and techniques. Making a bathroom luxurious is a combination of using quality building and decorating supplies, along with designs that make the most of your space.

Instructions

1. Install tile on the floor and walls, and give the tile an extra "pop" by adding a mosaic border through key areas.

2. Add a glass shower, which not only looks glamorous but also makes the room appear larger.

3. Opt for a high quality pedestal sink rather than a large vanity. Look for sinks with attention to detail, and add high-end knobs.

4. Hang an antique mirror above the sink. Antique style adds a classic look, and the mirror adds a perception of depth to the room.

5. Match the hardware in your shower with the hardware on your sink and toilet. If you use a storage cabinet, match the hardware there as well.

6. Use color to your advantage. Dark woods such as mahogany add a luxurious feel to any wooden furnishings in the room. Light colors on the wall help to make the room feel less cramped.

7. Invest in quality light fixtures. A bright bathroom looks more luxurious than a dimly lit one, and light can also open up the space as well. If possible, install a sky light as well. Having a view of the sky from your bathroom can dramatically affect how large the space feels.

Tags: small bathroom, hardware your

Lay Out High Hat Lights

The right layout for your high hat lights is essential to making your room lighting work for you.

Providing adequate and effective lighting in a room is an important part of planning the layout of lights. High hat lights provide a relatively easy-to-calculate area of illumination and are an attractive fixture that is not obtrusive to your room design. Planning how many lights and where to place them depends on the usage of the room, areas you desire ambient or functional lighting, as well as the height of your ceilings. Taking into account the variables and planning ahead are all part of making good a layout for your high hat light fixtures.

Instructions

1. Determine the main uses for the room your high hat lights are being placed. In a kitchen for instance, certain areas require more concentrated light for detail work, while others are better served by ambient light that is more comfortable. A living room may have focal areas such as a fireplace or sitting area, or you may desire a uniform lighting plan for the entire space. Take into consideration the main uses for the room, what you will do there and which parts of the room you will use the most.

2. Measure the height of the ceilings if you don't already know how high they are. The height of the ceiling in relation to the beam of light the high hats cast will help you determine the number of lights you need and the distance they will be placed. The normal beam angle in a room with an 8-foot ceiling, using a an R 40 standard flood bulb is 9 feet, with the highest concentration of light in the central 5 feet of the beam. A table is available from Forteelectric.com in the resource section to help determine your beam width.

3. Decide if any of the lights will be angled to focus on a particular object or space, such as a fireplace, large painting or sitting area placed in a corner. These lights will not necessarily add much to the overall room lighting so you need to take into consideration this type of light focus if you wish to use it, and add those to your plan.

4. Sketch a layout of the placement of your lights based on the beam width you have determined is applicable to your ceiling height. Show the area that each individual high hat will illuminate and note on the sketch special considerations such as kitchen counters. High hats need to be placed closer together to cover this type of area with concentrated lighting, as opposed to a general dining area where you would want more diffused and comfortable light. Move the high hat placements accordingly to provide the coverage that suits the needs of your room and its use. Use these sketches to confer with your electrical contractor and order the number of lights based on your layout.

Tags: your high, your room, beam width, help determine, high lights, into consideration, layout your

Clean Water Spots From Suspended Ceiling Tiles

Suspended ceilings are often installed to hide plumbing and electrical fixtures. A suspended ceiling is a good option for a room with exposed pipes and wires. However, if you have a plumbing leak, the tiles can stain and become an eyesore. This can detract from an otherwise beautiful decor. Replacing the tiles may not be in your budget, so cleaning them may be the only option. You can clean a water stained ceiling tile using a procedure that requires little time and effort.

Instructions

1. Mix equal parts of bleach and water in a spray bottle.

2. Mist the stained area of the ceiling tile with the bleach water. Wait 15 to 20 minutes and mist again if the stain has not completely faded.

3. Soak the end of a cotton swab in bleach for removing darker stains on the ceiling tile, such as the perimeter of the stained area. Dab the bleached-soaked cotton swab over the dark stain, rewetting the cotton swab with bleach often and using a fresh swab when the current one becomes too dirty. Keep scrubbing the stained area with the bleach-soaked cotton swab until no traces of the stain remain.

Tags: cotton swab, ceiling tile, stained area, bleach water, with bleach

Classic Kitchen Designs & Ideas

An updated kitchen adds value to your home.

Renovating your kitchen is an exciting way to add style and value to your home, but it is also overwhelming. The kitchen is the family's gathering place, where meals are shared; it should be warm, inviting and comforting. You want the kitchen functional but comfortable, stylish but relaxed. Save formal for the dining room. Because the theme options for a new kitchen are nearly limitless, many people feel more comfortable going with a classic theme that is instantly recognizable and familiar.

Country Kitchen

The country kitchen is the original American theme. Always invitingly down-home, you can pay homage to early American cookery with deep, rich tones, or use a more updated Southern-style palette with white and pastels. Either way, the centerpiece of the room is a large, sturdy family table. Select furniture in a medium-toned wood; choose chairs with tie-on seat pads in bright primary colors. Countertops of wood make for an early rustic look, or pick granite for a more updated style. Hang curtains that are light and airy as sunlight is an important element. Use bead board for your backsplash and even as cabinet facing. Use wire egg baskets to store essentials, and keep dishes on open shelves instead of hidden away.

Diner Decor

The classic 1950s diner is a perennial favorite in kitchen design, and you get to decide how deep into nostalgia you are willing to go. For a light touch, white walls and stainless steel appliances set off terrazzo or checkerboard tile floors. Choose a simple, bright color scheme--red, black and white are favorites--and repeat it throughout. To go a bit further, use pressed tin backsplashes in a stainless steel finish, and install a booth in place of a table. Glitter vinyl upholstery and steel-edged boomerang Formica are also authentic additions. Go even further by adding neon signs and '50s memorabilia on the walls, and perhaps even install a small Coke cooler. To go the limit, add a vintage popcorn machine, milkshake blender and cotton candy machine, and store dishes and glassware on open steel shelves.

Working Kitchen

The working kitchen is styled after restaurant kitchens where functionality and cleanliness are of utmost importance. Use stainless steel appliances and countertops with a separate butcher block island. Decoration is minimal; limit yourself to hanging flawless cookware from a steel rack. Keep countertops clear of clutter by planning enough storage to stow everything away. Efficiency is key, so consider the way you move and work in your kitchen before you plan the layout. Gleaming white walls feature a magnetic strip to hold high-quality knives. Store rarely-used appliances when not in use. The main benefit of this theme is how simple it is to keep clean. Because there is nothing sitting out to collect dust, you can virtually spray, wipe down and dry the whole room in one shot.

Cucina

The cucina is common in homes with a suburban-contemporary feel. Model your cucina after Spanish, Mexican, French or Italian kitchens, but stick to the main theme of rustic materials and textures. Use rough-hewn stone tile on floors and backsplashes and granite or slate on countertops. Use a lighter earth tone palette with an emphasis on the furniture, not the walls. Choose weathered wood furniture, preferably with carved decoration. Terra cotta pottery and baskets function as storage for towels, aprons and napkins, and a windowsill full of sprouting herbs or colored glass bottles adds a bit of old-world charm. Copper or cast-iron cookware is functional decor when hung from an iron rack, and earthenware plates grace the table all day long. Add a splash of traditional craftsmanship from whichever country you are emulating for a finishing touch.

Tags: stainless steel, more updated, palette with, stainless steel appliances, steel appliances

Design A Bathroom With Software

Floor plans can be designed with online software.

Laying out a bathroom before placing the design elements is important to ensure functionality. In-depth software programs to aid in interior design are available for purchase from specialty stores. Free online design software programs are also available for use. With a few minutes of spare time you can easily design a bathroom with interior design software.

Instructions

Designing a Bathroom

1. Enter the measurements of the bathroom into the interior design program to draw the outline of the room. If this is an existing bathroom, measure the room directly.

2. Add in the placement of the door to the bathroom; be sure that the door is to scale with the actual space.

3. Place the shower or bathtub on the bathroom floor plan. Most software has pre-scaled options to choose from.

4. Add in the toilet and toilet paper holder to the floor plan as well. The toilet paper holder should be in easy arm's reach from the toilet.

5. Add in the sink and countertops. Now that you have the rest of the bathroom laid out, you have an idea of how big you can make your bathroom vanity. Once again, most software programs have pre-scaled options for this.

6. Place any extra elements into the design; this includes towel racks, free-standing cabinets, and rugs.

Tags: interior design, software programs, design software, floor plan, from toilet, paper holder, pre-scaled options

How Do You Replace A Burnedout Light Bulb In A Harbor Breeze Ceiling Fan

Your fan may or may not use standard-sized light bulbs.

Most Harbor Breeze ceiling fans with light kits come with a decorative glass globe that covers the light bulbs. Other models may have chandelier-like light kits where the light bulbs are visible. Once the light bulb burns out, you are stuck with the task of climbing up and changing it. After you get the decorative globe off, changing a burned-out bulb is the same as changing any other light bulb. Your ceiling fan may use standard light bulbs or specialty bulbs.

Instructions

1. Turn off the fan and light.

2. Place your stepladder under the ceiling fan. Set it a little to the side so you are not standing directly under the fan, but so you still will be in a comfortable reaching distance without leaning.

3. Look at the decorative globe where it attaches to the fan. It may have two or more small screws that are holding the globe in place. Use your screwdriver or your fingers to unscrew these, keeping one hand on the base of the globe to keep it from falling.

If it does not have small screws around the side, gently try unscrewing the globe itself from the base. Some Harbor Breeze fans use small node-like bumps to hold the globe in place instead of screws.

4. Set the glass globe down carefully. Unscrew the light bulbs inside the fan. Set these down in a safe place. If you do not have matching new bulbs, take an old one with you to purchase the right replacement.

5. Screw in your new light bulbs. Get off the ladder and turn on the light to make sure the new bulbs work.

6. Reattach the glass globe the same way you took it off.

Tags: light bulbs, glass globe, Harbor Breeze, decorative globe, globe place, light bulb, light kits

Make A Plaster Ceiling Medallion

Make your own plaster ceiling medallions and save considerable money..

Ceiling medallions made of plaster and wood were common accents in government buildings and upper class homes centuries ago. According to Neal Barrett, author of "Ultimate Guide to Architectural Ceiling Treatments," in today's society ceiling medallions are commonly plastic rather than plaster. If you would like to add a touch of antiquity to your home's decor, you can make a plaster ceiling medallion. Making your own medallion allows for customization and costs only a fraction of a commercial plaster medallion.

Instructions

1. Sketch the design for your ceiling medallion on a piece of paper. Ceiling medallions can range from 6 inches to 4 feet in diameter. Base the size of your Styrofoam slab, box and bucket accordingly.

2. Cover the Styrofoam slab in a 1/2-inch layer of oil-based clay to provide a smooth working surface. Only cover one face and the edge; leave the other side free of clay. This is the basis for your ceiling medallion's shape.

3. Use sculpting tools to carve your sketched design into the ceiling medallion.

4. Center the sculpted ceiling medallion into the cardboard box. The box should allow for 1 to 2 inches of space on all sides of the medallion. Use scissors to cut down the boxes' sides so they are only 2 inches taller than the ceiling medallion.

5. Mix the silicone-molding compound, following manufacturer's directions.

6. Pour the silicone-molding compound over your sculpted ceiling medallion, filling until it is 1/2 inch away from the top of the box. Allow it to dry for the time specified by the manufacturer, or at least 72 hours.

7. Peel away the cardboard box from the silicone mold and turn it upside down.

8. Pull the sculpted ceiling medallion out of the silicone mold. If you have trouble pulling it out, use sculpting tools to pry it out, piece by piece. Do not worry about breaking the clay or foam, as you will discard them after removing.

9. Once you have cleared the silicone mold, wash it with warm water to remove any remaining debris.

10. Mix plaster, according to the manufacturer's directions, in the bucket.

11. Turn the silicone mold upside down, so the flat, solid side is on the bottom and the open side, with the ceiling medallion's impression, is facing up.

12. Pour the plaster into the silicone mold, filling it completely. Allow it to dry for the time specified by the manufacturer, or at least 48 hours.

13. Pull the silicon mold away from the plaster ceiling medallion on all sides to loosen the bond. Once the bond is broken, gently pull the finished ceiling medallion straight up, out of the silicone mold.

Tags: ceiling medallion, silicone mold, sculpted ceiling, sculpted ceiling medallion, Allow time, Allow time specified

Make A Modern Lamp

Reusing old furniture and decorative accessories in the home by giving them a makeover is not only cost-efficient, but also very green. If you have an outdated lamp that you have considered throwing away, give it a modern appearance that matches your home decor.

Instructions

Making your modern lamp

1. Remove the old lampshade. Take it shopping with you to ensure you are purchasing one that will fit your lamp.

2. Select an ultra-modern lamp shade in a color that complements your room decor. Square lamp shades are very modern looking and work well for this project.

3. The paint you use will depend on what material your lamp is made of. If your lamp base is wooden, spray paint works well. If your lamp is glass, look for a paint made for glass.

4. Paint your lamp base first. Paint it a solid color or add decorative touches and patterns with additional colors. If you choose to do a pattern, it is best to use a stencil. Paint your lamp base a solid color and allow it to dry overnight. Attach your stencil with tape wherever you want the pattern to be. Paint inside the stencil area. Allow this coat of paint to dry for several hours. Remove the stencil.

5. The last step is to put the new lamp shade onto the lamp.

Tags: your lamp, lamp base, your lamp base, lamp shade, Paint your, Paint your lamp

Drain A Ceiling With A Leaky Roof

The water from a leaking roof damages a ceiling's drywall.

Water from a leaking roof often travels down the roof deck until it hits an obstruction, like a roofing nail. Once it hits the obstruction, the water drips onto the top of the ceiling. As the water puddles on top of the ceiling it soaks through the drywall, where it gathers above the paint. Eventually, the water weighs on the paint and forms a large bubble. Failure to drain the water from the ceiling causes extensive drywall damage. After draining the ceiling and repairing the roof leak, allow the water-damaged area enough time to dry before repairing the ceiling.

Instructions

1. Place several buckets on the floor under the water-damaged portion of the ceiling.

2. Set up a ladder under the edge of the water-damaged portion of the ceiling. Adjust the ladder's position so the top of the ladder sits under the outer portion of the water damage.

3. Set a bucket on top of the ladder. The bucket should rest under the edge of the bubble.

4. Poke a hole through the ceiling above the bucket with either an awl or a pencil. Remove the awl or pencil. Catch the water in the bucket. Drain the water from the bucket after the water stops dripping from the hole.

5. Move the ladder toward the center of the ceiling's water bubble. Set an empty bucket on the top of the ladder and poke a hole into the drywall with the awl or pencil. Drain all the water from the hole.

6. Place the ladder under the center of the water-damaged area. Set an empty bucket on top of the ladder. Drain the water from the center of the water-damaged area.

Tags: water from, bucket ladder, Drain water, water-damaged area, ceiling water, center water-damaged

Make A Modern Chandelier Look Antique

Make your new chandelier look old.

Don't toss out that chandelier that isn't quite your style. If you've got a contemporary chandelier but your décor style is more vintage than modern, you can redo your current fixture to look old. The antique look has come around and is quite chic if you like that style. For the price of a can of spray paint, your chandelier can be transformed into something you'll love.

Instructions

1. Spray paint the entire fixture to create an old look. Many modern-day chandeliers are a brass or silver color. Create that charming antique color with spray paint. Depending on the look you are going for, you can use a bronze metallic or an off-white color. A bronze metallic shade will leave you with a rustic antique-looking chandelier and an off-white color will give you a shabby chic finish. Tape off any parts of the chandelier that you do not want spray painted.

2. Make the glass or crystals appear foggy. Antique chandeliers do not have bright, shiny and new crystals hanging from them. Use a pre-made frosting spray, found at your local craft store, to create an antique style. Alternatively, you can make your glass or crystals appear foggy or old by creating a mixture from equal parts baking soda and water and then soaking each crystal in the mixture. Do not rinse and then allow to dry and you will have that antique look you are trying to achieve.

3. Distress the chandelier. Many antique chandeliers are worn around the edges. You can lightly distress parts of your chandelier by using a fine-grit sandpaper to rub in certain areas, which will create a worn look. This is especially important if you are trying to achieve a shabby-chic antique finish.

Tags: your chandelier, antique look, appear foggy, bronze metallic, chandelier that, crystals appear

Zen Living Room Design Ideas

Add Zen decor elements to your living room.

Zen design has shaped and formed almost every part of Japanese culture. What people think of in the West as "commonly Japanese", has its roots in the thinking and aesthetics of Zen. The simple, clean lines of Zen decor have continued to appeal with the passage of time. Zen decor adds a sense of peace and calm to a room. Add Zen decor ideas into your living room to create the feeling of serenity.

Futon

Add a futon to your living room. Futons in Japan are placed on tatami mats, which are then enclosed by folding screens. Portable rice paper lights are added around the futon. Futon mattresses in the West are typically placed on a low futon wooden frame, which doubles as a daytime sofa.

Kaidan tansu

Include a kaidan tansu, or stepped storage chest. These chests, which resemble stairs, originated in pre-industrial, rural Japan. Originally designed to use as stairs to the next floor, they are now used for storage and display. Display stacking boxes, photographs and ceramic accessories on the steps. Use the built-in drawers to store smaller items.

Natural Elements

In the Zen tradition, fire, wood, earth, metal and water are thought to be key components of the physical world. Add accessories using these elements to create a Zen-like atmosphere in your living room. Add textural rugs made from rice, straw or reeds. Natural wood floors are important in Zen design. Firewood may be stacked to focus on the wood grain in each piece for a focal point in a fireplace. Add water elements such as fountains made from metal. Living plants are symbols of regrowth and regeneration in a Zen home. A simple vase that contains lilies helps soften a minimalistic interior.

Sliding doors

Sliding doors or doors that partition off rooms are an important feature of Zen design. Add doors that break up interior space, such as the living room, or doors that separate two rooms. Doors may be shaded with rice paper, clear or painted, but they should always be functional enough to create a flexible space.

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Floor Lamps Of The 50s Era

Gooseneck lamps were popular both as desk and floor models in the 1950s.

Lamp styles have changed dramatically through the decades, with Ikea being a very popular source for lighting in these modern times. But past decades offer floor lamps with fine architectural details, varied materials and different lighting effects. The decade of the 1950s is especially rich in its history of lamps, from art deco table lamps to small so-called "TV lamps" to its rambunctious selection of floor lamps. Floor lamps from the 1950s offer a wide selection of material choices and lighting effects, and they freshen a room's look.

Torchiere Floor Lamps

Torchiere floor lamps generally have a firm, sturdy base with a thin neck, rising to a shade that opens toward the ceiling, allowing light to bounce off of the ceiling and provide a soft, glowing effect. In the 1950s, torchiere floor lamps were popular. The soft, ambient lighting provided by the clean lines of the torchiere were part of the new interior design ideas gaining popularity in the 1950s. Many of the torchiere shades were glass in varying soft colors.

Floor Lamps with Simple Lines

By the time the 1950s arrived, people had the option to decorate, rather than simply have utilitarian items, and the lamps of the decade represented a sense of fun with clean lines and globes, hourglasses and rings. Lamps with a single pole and a single light source, either pointing up or pointing down, were popular during the 1950s.

Gooseneck Floor Lamps

Another popular type of 1950s floor lamps are gooseneck lamps that bent whichever way you needed or wanted the light to go. There could be one or more gooseneck lights on one simple stand that rose gracefully from the floor. Gooseneck lamps were popular in Europe, especially Italian-made gooseneck lamps.

Drum Shade Lamps

Simple drum-shaped shades rising from graceful poles were also popular in the 1950s. Shades, sometimes pleated and wider at the bottom than the top were a part of 1950s mid-century decorating. This sort of simple vintage look can give any room a fresh retro style. These lampshades were often made from fiberglass, as were table lamp shades.

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Remove Paint From Tin Ceiling Tiles

Restore your tin ceiling tiles by removing the paint.

The paint on tin ceiling tiles can be removed with oven cleaner. The chemicals in the cleaner break down the bond the paint has on the tin's surface. If the tins have been painted several times, then only one to two layers of paint can be removed at a time. The loose paint is removed from the tins by wiping with painter's rags, scrubbing with a soft bristle brush and a scraping with a plastic putty knife.

Instructions

1. Lay painter's plastic on the floor beneath the ceiling. Tape the plastic to the floor around the perimeter with 2-inch masking tape so it doesn't move around .

2. Attach low-adhesive painter's tape around the top-side of the walls surrounding the ceiling. Stick the tape in a corner and then unroll the tape rightward while sticking it to the wall's corner edge along the ceiling. Leave the lower edge of the tape loose. Use a ladder to reach this area.

3. Drape painter's plastic down the walls all the way around the ceiling. Unroll the plastic so that it hangs down the wall to the floor. Stick the upper edge of the plastic beneath the previously placed painter's tape around the upper edge of the wall. Press the tape to the plastic to hold it in place. This will protect walls, cabinets, counters and appliances from the dripping oven cleaner.

4. Set a ventilation fan in the room to blow in fresh air. Turn on the fan and open all exterior doors and windows.

5. Put on a paint respirator, a see-through face shield, rubber gloves, a long-sleeve shirt and pants.

6. Climb the ladder with a spray-bottle of oven cleaner and spray the entire ceiling with cleaner. The nozzle of the bottle should be set to the mist setting to provide even coverage. Spray one tile and one row at a time to ensure you don't miss any. Wait two hours.

7. Climb the ladder and scrape the loose paint from the tiles with a 6-inch plastic putty knife. Use painter's rags to wipe after the scraper and to wipe the paint off the scraper. Scrape one tile and one row at a time. If you can see the bare tin after you scrape and wipe, then this is the only application of oven cleaner needed. Use a toothbrush to clean the paint out of the grooves in between the tiles and any ornamental grooves.

8. Clean excess paint residue off of the tiles by wiping them clean with a painter's rag that has been soaked in oven cleaner. Ring the rag out before using it to wipe.

9. Dip a painter's rag into some mineral spirits and wipe all of the oven cleaner off of the tiles or the oven cleaner will dissolve the tin in areas and leave pock marks.

10. Remove all of the painter's plastic and masking tape when finished.

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