A room paneled in knotty pine looks cozy and comfortable, but not if you can hardly bear to touch the grimy walls. Elbow grease and a little time will restore sheen and cleanliness to a knotty pine wall or room. It's a good project for times you need to think, can't sleep or when weather confines you indoors.
Instructions
Prepare
1. Limit the work. Don't undertake an entire great room in a single session.
2. Move the furniture away from the wall you've chosen. Put away miscellaneous items, so you don't have to step over them. Ignore the dusty floor beneath furniture.
3. Arrange your materials conveniently, perhaps by tucking the spare rag in , setting up the stepladder and placing the cleaner on a sheet of newspaper (to protect the surface you set it on).
4. Wear gloves, if you don't want your hands to smell of the product you use. On the other hand, it doubles the benefit and deep-softens to work bare-handed.
Rub Well
5. Start in a corner at the top of a wall so that any drips run down the wall. Spray cleaner directly onto the paneling or pour a little on the first rag and wipe at ceiling level.
6. Work from top to bottom in a comfortably confined area, perhaps 2 feet wide. Rub longer in areas of concentrated grime, such as where fingerprints have accumulated.
7. Move onward and clean swatches from ceiling to floor until you reach the end of the wall.
8. When one wall is finished, lightly wipe excess cleaning product with second rag (the one in ).
Smoking is not only a disgusting habit, but it's also detrimental to your health. People who smoke may find that trying to quit is harder than most challenges they have faced. So, the last thing you want to smell when you walk into your home, after you've quit smoking, is the odor of years of cigarette smoke seeping from your walls and ceiling. Fortunately, it can be removed.
Instructions
1. Put on dish gloves. Fill a bucket with warm water and add 2 tbsp. dish detergent. Swish the water a couple of times with your hand to make the water sudsy.
2. Put down a drop cloth to prevent any yellow, soapy water from getting absorbed by your carpeting or drying on your hardwood flooring.
3. Wash the yellow film of cigarette smoke from your walls and ceiling. Work from the center of your ceiling out to your walls and then from the top of your walls down and use the sponge mop, Rinse the mop frequently and change the soapy water.
4. Wash your walls and ceiling until the water that drips from them is no longer yellow, indicating that the smoky film has been removed.
5. Dry your walls with clean scrap towels once the water rinses clear. The ceiling will drip dry by the time you get to drying the walls.
6. Sprinkle baking soda on carpeting and let it sit for about an hour before vacuuming it up. Mop hardwood floors with a dish soap and warm water solution. The vacuuming and mopping are an extra cautious step to ensure that no odor remains in your flooring from water dripping from the ceiling and walls.
Tags: your walls, from your, from your walls, , , cigarette smoke
Interior molding should suit the window or door that it is applied to.
Door and window molding has a large impact on the feel of a room. Although walls, floors and ceilings take up far more square feet, it is the trim and moldings that the eye is drawn to in a room, due to their central location and their visual interest.
Arts and Crafts Style
Arts and Crafts-style interior door and window moldings can give a house an inviting 1920s feel. Particularly when it is milled from quarter sawn oak, Arts and Crafts trim can transform a mundane household interior into a space that feels like a heritage home. Quarter sawn oak is milled with all the saw cuts running perpendicular to the outside of the log, a process that gives it its distinctive and appealing grain pattern, and also makes it more stable and resistant to warping. Arts and Crafts style features natural wood, simple wainscoting and sometimes chair rails, and an emphasis on straightforward design and materials.
Money-Saving MDF
If you are installing trim on a small budget, your most economical option is to out of MDF (medium density fiberboard), which you can then paint so that it can't be distinguished from wood. Most commercially built housing today is trimmed with MDF because it is cheaper. You can buy pre-formed trim made of MDF so that you only need to cut it to length, or you can buy MDF in 4-by-8 foot sheets and make the trim yourself. There are health questions regarding the offgassing of formaldehyde by MDF. This problem can be greatly reduced by sealing all MDF surfaces with paint before installing it.
Creative Carvings
If you have some extra time and are interested in a truly unique home interior, you can make one-of-a-kind carved molding for your windows and doors. The best woods to use for this are basswood, mahogany or pine, all of which have fairly straight grain and hold an edge well after being carved. Of the three, pine is the least expensive option. Carving pieces of molding before installing them allows you to do it more comfortably on a workbench, then install the finished piece onto the side of a door or window. Molding such as this will make your home unlike any other home in the world.
Elaborate Overlay
For formal dining rooms or sitting rooms in older houses, more elaborate trim and molding may be called for. Trim such as the Boston style features carved medallions, rosettes and multiple layers of molded trim, creating areas of visual complexity around windows and doors.
Tags: Arts Crafts, before installing, door window, make trim, style features, windows doors
Tile is a natural choice for bathrooms in any home.
Tiled bathroom floors have remained popular for ages, and the possibilities only seem to grow with the passing years. Naturally resilient, tile is an obvious choice for any bathroom, regardless of the home's age or architectural style. Choosing the design is often the most troublesome obstacle. However, there are numerous appealing options, whether you are a novice or a professional installer.
Small Tiles, Thrifty Design
Small, artistic tiles have a built-in design.
When budget is as big a factor as beauty, plan your design to make the most of the space and materials you have, recommends This Old House. One method is to use sheets of small tiles. If a wall is mostly obstructed by a tub or vanity, you may have the option of beginning the layout with full sheets of tiles against the opposing wall, which minimizes the number of cuts and eliminates some waste. Although traditional design strategy begins at the center point of the room, sheets of 1-inch mosaic or hex tile fool the eye. Elaborate design is not important when mosaics are used. The mass of small tiles, not a complex layout, becomes the impressive focal point. Create some room for error by removing baseboards first. Perfect fit against the walls and precise cuts aren't necessary if the reinstalled baseboards disguise gaps around the perimeter of the room.
Decorative Inserts
Fancy inserts boost the look of a plain background.
Large bathrooms are good candidates for decorative sections inserted into the overall layout. A template is a convenient tool for choosing the best spot for the accent section, suggests Ron Hazelton. Arrange the decorative tiles on a large piece of cardboard, mark around the design and cut the outline. The portable template allows you to move the design around the room instead of rearranging tiles. Remember the areas where you normally place rugs and mats so they won't cover your hard work. With an accent section, the rest of the floor doesn't need to be fancy. Ordinary tiles that make up the bulk of the room's layout are visually upgraded when you use more expensive materials for a small focal point.
Classic Diagonal
Diagonal installations are not as complex as they appear.
Diagonal tile installations visually broaden the space, and they are less complicated than you might think. In larger rooms, this design works best with tiles that are at least 12 inches square. Large areas of diagonal, small tiles are a bit overwhelming to the eye. Conversely, large diagonal tiles in a small room seem off-balance. Marking diagonally in both directions from corner to corner, which shows you the center of the room, is the first step in most tile installations. By default, this process gives you ideal lines for installing on the diagonal. Whether you snap chalk lines or draw the diagonal lines with a pencil, place the first four tiles around the center of the X and build out along those lines, which is a practical installation that takes less plotting time than a typical square design, and the result is impressive.
Tags: small tiles, accent section, focal point, tile installations, tiles that
Recessed light fixtures have steadily grown in popularity over the past few years. It is possible to select many different types of recessed lights in a variety of sizes. To make the recessed light blend even more closely with the ceiling color many manufacturers now produce trim rings in a variety of colors as well as rings which can be painted or stained to match the ceiling exactly. Selecting the trim ring that will match your ceiling color is an easy process.
Instructions
1. Acquire a sample of your wood ceiling. If you don't have a sample then go to your home improvement or paint store and ask for a stain sample brochure. These brochures provide many sample chips which closely match the finish of paints and stains. Use these sample brochures to determine a close wood finish match with your ceiling. Hold the samples close to your ceiling until you have a match.
2. Determine the exact manufacturer of your recessed light fixture so you can identify what color of trim rings are sold with your fixture. A brochure featuring available trim colors for your fixture can be requested from a light fixture store or by contacting the fixture company. You may also wish to inquire about paintable or stainable trim rings.
3. Compare the standard trim ring colors with your ceiling sample color. While you are unlikely to find prestained trim rings, you may find a color of standard trim ring that will work for your ceiling. If none of the standard colors will work, then select a trim ring that can be custom painted to match your ceiling stain color. A faux painter can match wood type and color. Ask your paint store personnel for recommendations.
Tags: your ceiling, trim ring, ring that, trim ring that, trim rings
Ceiling tiles can be hung over a frame of mini-joists of wood affixed to the regular ceiling joists or hung from an aluminum frame that hangs down a foot or two from the ceiling. Either way, pulling down dated tiles and replacing them with drywall will add both height and modernity to your ceiling. However the tiles are affixed, you need to clear them out, along with their mounting system, before you can affix the drywall, which must be attached to the ceiling joists.
Instructions
1. Pull down the existing ceiling tiles with your hands, also using a hammer and pry bar if necessary. If there is a drop-ceiling grid, pull it down. Expose the ceiling joists completely. Use pliers to pull out any staples from the joists.
2. Stand a stepladder near end of the ceiling where you want to start and place another stepladder a few feet out from it. (Note: The starting wall must run perpendicular to the ceiling joists.)
3. Measure the ceiling from the starting wall out by 8 feet. Record the distance of the last joist within that span, with the end of the tape measure held to the middle of the joist's narrow edge.
4. Transfer the recorded measurement to a sheet of drywall. Cut the drywall to that size by holding a level across the width of it, scoring with a razor knife alongside the level and bending the piece at that line until it snaps.
5. Hold the cut drywall up to the ceiling, with an assistant. Set it so the cut edge faces the wall and the other edge is at the middle of the edge of the joist.
6. Secure the piece there with drywall screws driven every 6 inches along each joist running above the drywall.
7. Repeat the process, covering the remaining portions of the ceiling in staggered courses (meaning, there should be no four-way intersections between the boards).
8. Press drywall tape onto each of the seams between the boards. Spread over the tape, covering it in a smooth, flat layer. Let it set for six hours.
9. Spread on a second coat of joint compound over the first layer, making the lines a little wider and keeping them flat. Let them dry six hours. Apply a third layer, making it a little wider and keeping it flat. Let it set for 24 hours.
10. Sand the dried compound smooth with a drywall sander. Paint the ceiling.
Tags: , , compound over, joint compound, joint compound over
A ceiling fan is especially useful in a kitchen because it can help disperse heat and fumes that can build up during cooking. Installing a modern ceiling fan in a kitchen (or any other room) is relatively simple, as long you have an existing fixture, like a ceiling light. If there's no ceiling fixture, have an electrician install and connect a box before you start.
Instructions
1. Shut off all electricity to the kitchen from the fuse box. Set your ladder under the existing fixture and climb to it. With your screwdriver, remove the previous ceiling fixture, taking out the mounting screws around the perimeter. Disconnect the wiring, leaving the wire ends hanging out of the ceiling electrical box.
2. Locate the mounting bracket that came with your fan kit (it will look like a hollow metal fixture or frame, a little smaller than the fan's ceiling housing). Hold the bracket up to the electrical box, lining up the screw holes in the bracket to the holes in the box. Secure the bracket with the provided mounting screws and your screwdriver.
3. Put the fan unit together on the floor, following the instructions that came with it. The wires should be hanging loosely out of the top of the assembly, from the ceiling housing.
4. Walk the assembled fan up the ladder and set it on top. Raise the ceiling housing portion of the fan high enough so the wires from the fan can reach the wires coming out of the ceiling electrical box.
5. Use wire nuts to connect each the box to the same colored wire from the fan, twisting the nuts over the connections and wrapping them in electrical tape. Twist the copper grounding wire from the electrical box around the green grounding screw in the fan housing.
6. Secure the fan's ceiling housing to the bracket that you installed earlier, using provided mounting screws through the screw holes. Turn on the electricity.
A ceiling fan is one lighting option for vaulted ceilings.
Vaulted ceilings are a quick selling point in a home thanks to the open feeling it provides. Lighting a room with vaulted ceilings, however, can be tricky. Typical lamps may offer localized light but does nothing for utilizing the height and openness of the space. Torchieres or torch lamps are a common choice, but it does not flatter the so much as offer simple upward lighting. Some options are available that both light and flatter the beauty of a space with vaulted ceilings.
Chandeliers
Vaulted ceilings allow for a bit of drama if you are open to it. Chandeliers come in a variety of styles and sizes to suit nearly every space and sensibility. The use of a chandelier with a vaulted ceiling will accent the room's height and volume by casting light both upward and across the room. This type of lighting also makes a clear statement like a crown jewel symbolizing the room's signature style.
Skylight
Using natural light via a skylight will save on the electric bill and bring a bright, warm light source to the room. This lighting method will bring attention upward, using and highlighting the full height of the ceiling. Skylights create a voluminous and open feeling to a room, if used correctly. This is great for the day but in the evening, other lighting options are necessary to light the space sufficiently.
Ceiling Fan
Using a ceiling fan, lowered to an appropriate level from a vaulted ceiling, can offer style and comfort. Heating and cooling costs can make vaulted ceiling an ongoing expense. Using ceiling fans, however, can adjust the temperature in the room to a more comfortable level while doing it stylishly. This type of lighting is more accessible and casual than something as striking as a chandelier. It is also more easily accessible for cleaning and maintenance.
Lighted Crown Molding
Crown molding installed around the borders of a room with a vaulted ceiling can hide rope lighting inside. The effect will be a warm glow upwards along the ceiling itself that will radiate throughout the room, creating a cozy and romantic ambiance while still keeping it airy and open. This is excellent for social gathering areas like dining rooms and living rooms.
Tags: vaulted ceiling, with vaulted, with vaulted ceilings, open feeling, room This, , room with vaulted
Covering floors with drop cloths is the easiest way to keep ceiling paint from dripping on the floor.
Painting walls is a daunting enough task, but beginning do-it-yourselfers -- and their arms -- might be intimidated by the vast stretches of "fifth wall" common to every room: the ceiling. While small paint spatters and drips are virtually unavoidable in any painting project, proper preparation and using the correct materials can make the job of painting a ceiling cleaner and easier. The majority of drips can be prevented by clearing excess paint from the brush or roller and maintaining even pressure while working.
Instructions
Preparation
1. Use a drop cloth to cover large pieces of furniture to protect them from paint spatters. If possible, move items out of the room; this will free up room to maneuver while painting.
2. Cover as much of the floor as possible with a drop cloth. Secure the drop cloth to the baseboards with painters' tape to keep it from shifting as you work.
3. Tape the tops of the walls where they meet the ceiling. This helps prevent from getting on the walls and maintains a clean line at the transition between wall and ceiling.
4. Clean out any accumulated cobwebs and dust from corners, which can cause paint to clump up.
Cutting In
5. Pour paint into a roller pan or dip the angled trim brush into the paint bucket.
6. Scrape any excess paint from the brush with the edge of the pan or bucket to help avoid drips.
7. Stand on a stepladder and carefully paint along the edges of the ceiling around the perimeter of the room, reloading the paint brush as the paint begins to thin out. Try to maintain an even texture as you work.
8. Rotate the brush periodically if you see drips starting to form.
Painting
9. Screw a paint roller onto the top of a roller extension pole.
10. Dip the roller and roller cover into the bucket or pan of paint, using the screen to remove any excess paint. If using a roller pan, roll the cover back and forth several times to remove any excess paint.
11. Push the paint roller along the ceiling in a straight line from one side of the room to the other, avoiding excess pressure and reloading the roller whenever the paint begins to thin out. Pressing too hard on the roller, as you work, will create lines on the ceiling and also cause the paint to spatter and drip.
12. Avoid paint lines by making sure to feather the edges as you work or blurring out the hard line of the area you just painted.
Tags: excess paint, paint from, drop cloth, begins thin, cause paint, ceiling paint
Create any moulding profile by making moulding knives yourself.
You can make your own moulding knives. It's easier than you think. By making your own knives you can customize a moulding profile and get a completely unique product. You can run your own moulding on a table saw equipped with a moulding head, or you can just make the knife profile and then have a professional woodshop use the knives to run your moulding. You can purchase a few items from a local metal shop and make your own knives in your garage.
Instructions
1. Lay the steel out on a flat surface with the shiny side up. Draw out a moulding profile on the edge of the steel lengthwise using a toothpick dipped in etching fluid. When you have established the profile, use the brush to color in the area that you are going to remove using the grinder with fluid.
2. Put on safety glasses. Hold the metal with the channel lock pliers at a 30-degree angle pointing up, with the profile facing the wheel.
3. Turn on the grinder and begin grinding the steel away from the profile, maintaining the same angle. If you vary the angle slightly it will still be okay. Move the steel back and forth over the wheel, grinding away the steel slowly until you have removed all of the colored metal.
4. Place the metal in a can of cold water to let it cool. After five minutes, take the metal out. Check your profile and then grab the steel with the pliers and fine-tune the profile, applying it to the wheel while maintaining the 30-degree angle. Bring the profile to a sharp, knife-like edge gently and carefully to get all the detail that you want.
Tags: moulding profile, your moulding, 30-degree angle, ,
Install a drop ceiling to make a room look and feel finished.
For some homeowners, installing a suspended or "drop" ceiling offers advantages over traditional drywall construction. Obstructions that are difficult to enclose in drywall, such as air ducts, water and vent pipes and electrical cables, can be hidden with ease. Access for later repairs is almost instantaneous. A further bonus is that the installation, while requiring some practice, is straightforward and can be accomplished with hand tools.
Instructions
1. Choose a ceiling manufacturer that has the style, texture and colors that you wish to install. Be sure to order enough materials to complete the job, with spare tiles left over for future replacement as needed. Most large hardware stores will assist you in determining the correct quality of tiles and supporting materials needed.
2. Determine the height of the new suspended ceiling. Measure down from your existing ceiling joists 6 inches along each wall and mark this spot with a pencil. Along these marks, use a 4-foot level and draw a target line around the perimeter of the room. If the joists are not all level, use the single lowest joist, then draw a level perimeter line around the room.
3. Locate the vertical wall studs, then nail the perimeter molding (L-shaped pieces) into place along the marked perimeter of the wall. The top of the molding should align with the perimeter line. Use 6d nails in the pre-drilled holes found on the molding. Use tin snips to cut pieces as needed. At the corners, allow pieces of molding to overlap each other for additional support.
4. Cut the main ceiling runners with tin snips so that they fit in place across two opposing perimeter moldings. The runners should all run perpendicular to the ceiling joists. They must be placed exactly 4 feet apart, so begin in the center of the ceiling and work outward toward the walls.
5. Screw 3/8-inch eyebolts above the main runners into the ceiling joists. Fasten 24-inch lengths of 16-gauge ceiling support wire to each eyebolt hole. Then twist the wire three times clockwise around itself near the eyebolt hole. Insert the hanging end of each wire through a corresponding support hole located in the ceiling runners. Bend the extra wire upward so that the runners are fully supported. Twist each one three times clockwise to secure it.
6. Connect the runners together using cross tees spaced exactly 2 feet apart. Cross tees contain small hooks on each end that snap into place on the main runners. When finished, the entire ceiling area will be covered with 2-by-4-foot rectangles. Perimeter cross tees may be cut to length with tin snaps, then laid in place.
7. Level the ceiling by placing a carpenter's level on a main runner, then twisting each support wire slightly with pliers at all "low spots" located in the ceiling runners. Twisting the wire, commonly called "kinking it," will make it shorter in length, thus raising the runner in that particular spot. Always raise the low spots, rather than lowering the high spots, in the ceiling. Continue to use the level and kink method along all areas of the ceiling until all of the low spots have been removed.
8. Install the ceiling panels beginning in the center of the ceiling and working outward. Push each panel through the opening in the ceiling where it will reside, then allow it to drop down and lay flat in the grid. Slight adjustments can be made to the ceiling grid by applying pressure in the direction needed to get any stubborn tiles to drop into place.
9. Finish the ceiling by cutting the perimeter tiles to the exact shape and size needed, then installing them in the same manner as the full 2-by-4-foot tiles.
Tags: ceiling joists, ceiling runners, into place, center ceiling, drop ceiling
A new, modern chandelier does not have to cost an arm and a leg. When it comes time to replace that old chandelier, consider making one instead of buying a new one. Create a homemade masterpiece that will be the focal point of any room in just one afternoon that costs under $100. Your chandelier should welcome your guests and create a mood for your dining room. Before creating a new light fixture, remember that it should match the size of your room.
Instructions
1. Cut the floral wire into 18 1.5-inch lengths.
2. Place the nail in the center of a length of floral wire and wrap one end completely around the nail to create a loop in the center of the wire. Repeat for each piece of floral wire.
3. Cut the fishing line into 18 2-foot lengths.
4. Tie one end of the fishing line to each of the loops on the floral wire. Bend the ends of the wire inwards and insert the wire into the hole in the glass balls. Repeat for each of the 18 glass balls.
5. Open the cord sets and unwind the cords. Insert each of the cords into the electrical conduit and allow the end that the light bulb attaches into to hang from the conduit. Bring the opposite ends of the cords to the hole that the original chandelier was hung.
6. Attach the conduit to the ceiling with brackets and screw light bulbs into the lamp cords.
7. Tie the fishing line with the glass bulbs attached to the conduit at varying heights.
Authentic tin ceilings were first installed in businesses and homes after the Civil War. These ceilings were popular due to the tin being fireproof and paintable. Many of these types of ceilings are still viable in vintage buildings. The modern homeowner can duplicate this ceiling with tiles that have the intricate stamped look of tin by using extruded polystyrene tiles. Extruded polystyrene tiles glue to existing ceilings or are used for dropped ceilings. The tiles adhere to drywall or popcorn ceilings and are can be painted.
Instructions
1. Measure the length and the width of the ceiling. Multiply the length times the width to arrive at the square footage for the ceiling. Divide the square footage by the square footage of a ceiling tile to arrive at the number of tiles required. Ceiling tile are usually 2-by-2-feet and 2-by-4-feet. Purchase a few extra tiles to allow for mistakes in cutting.
2. Remove any ceiling lights, fans and vent covers from the ceiling in the room. Find the center of the room by measuring the length of the ceiling and making a mark at the center of the measurement. Do the same for the width. Pop a chalk line across the room from the center marks to find center.
3. Apply between nine and 12 dots of ceramic tile mastic to the back of the ceiling tile. Nine dots are sufficient for installation to smooth ceilings. Use 12 dots when installing on a popcorn ceiling. Press the to the ceiling using the chalk lines as a guide. Hold the tile in place for 30 seconds to one minute. Install the next tile in the same manner, carefully aligning with the chalk line and the previously installed tile. Continue until all full tiles are adhered to the ceiling. Cut the edge tiles to the size required and glue to the ceiling.
4. Caulk all seams where the ceiling tiles butt together. Allow the caulking to dry overnight before applying paint to the installed ceiling. Use a semi-gloss or high-gloss paint. You can paint the ceiling tiles with metallic paint to give the look of authentic tin ceilings.
5. Install extruded polystyrene ceiling molding with adhesive to complete the look of an authentic tin ceiling. Hold the molding in place with painter's tape until the adhesive has dried.
Tags: , square footage, ceiling tiles, ceilings were, chalk line
There's a reason why great artists of the past paid attention to ceilings.
Solid white ceilings don't give a room much personality, but designers are beginning to use them as a "fifth wall" to work into design schemes. An out-of-the-ordinary ceiling can give your room a period look, tease the eye or just elevate a room's feel. Enlist the help of friends and make it a weekend project.
Wood
This natural element imbues a room with a rustic ranch feel. A homeowner can employ slick solid planks, mix wood types and colors to create eye-catching designs, or use untreated wooden beams for a more rustic look. Because a wood ceiling can darken a room, be sure to use it only in areas with a lot of natural light and keep wall and floor colors light.
Tin
Look to the Victorian era for inspiration on this type of ceiling. Tin-tiled ceilings look especially stunning in libraries and kitchens. As a do-it-yourself project, remember to start tin tiles in the center of the ceiling for symmetrical measurements on all sides. Look for pressed-in ceiling tiles and cornice pieces. Homeowners who don't like the look of silver can try colored tin or brass or copper tin tiles.
Mural
The Sistine Chapel is a popular tourist destination for good reason. A ceiling mural gives you something beautiful to look at before you go to bed and when you wake up. It also gives a room a Renaissance feel. Ceiling murals can include illusionist paintings, also called trompe l'oeil, to make a flat ceiling look like a dome, vaulted ceiling, coffer or a stained-glass window in the ceiling.
Decorative relief on architecture takes many forms, including crown molding.
You can remodel room walls with built-up molding tailored to the overall atmosphere you are trying to create and the requirements of the space. Tall ceilings or large rooms can carry more than just a simple strip of molding at the top of a wall. Avoid the cost of custom built-up molding and get exactly the look you want by piecing together less expensive molding yourself.
Instructions
1. Use the shape, purpose, and lighting of your room to select sharper or gentler angles for complementary molding.
Measure your perimeters and select the crown molding and baseboards you'll be using. Allow for error by purchasing a foot or more of extra material per wall. Try to match the contours and bulk of the molding to the lighting and the space of your room. Clear edges of the room so walls are accessible. Select the most easily and frequently viewed section of your room and begin work at that point, working around so that imperfect joins can be hidden in darker or covered areas. Place samples against the ceiling to double check your choices. Locate and mark wall studs and ceiling joists.
2. If you're more comfortable with a handsaw than a miter saw, consider new composite products.
Lay out and measure the baseboards, one length resting against the ceiling and one on the wall under it. Use a miter saw, following the manufacturer's instructions, to cut your boards at a 45-degree angle where they meet in corners or where lengths need to be pieced together. Use wood glue and/or a nailed scarf joint cut to fall on a stud where appropriate. Complicated turns may require different miter cuts and some carpentry experience or advice. Glue the baseboards to the ceiling with construction adhesive and then follow up with nails into the joists. Then nail the second set of baseboards against the walls into the studs.
3. If required by the molding, use blocks at each stud to support the space behind the crown molding. Glue and nail the blocks into place against the corner. Miter cut the crown molding, making sure to adjust for a compound cut, then place and nail the molding into the blocks and each baseboard.
4. Make sure your caulk will take paint.
Spackle over the nails and then sandpaper these spots smooth. Brush away any sandpaper dust. Use caulk along the seams and in any gaps from joining pieces at cuts or corners. Dip a finger in water and smooth the caulk into the gap and clear up any excess. Sand down any projecting caulk after it dries and paint your new molding.
5. If your room is spacious enough or your home fits a Victorian look, consider adding baseboards to complement the molding and wainscoting to accent the dining area.
Tags: crown molding, your room, against ceiling, blocks each, built-up molding, room walls
Rosettes are bored into wood and then cut into blocks.
Wood rosette blocks can be used to add an ornate appearance to doorways, windows or anywhere two pieces of molding intersect at a corner. They are square blocks, slightly wider and thicker than the molding with an elaborate carving such as a flower, or concentric circles cut into the face. Some of them are carved by hand, but the majority of them are produced using a small tool that fits into a drill press. It is best to make four or more at the same time from a single board.
Instructions
1. Insert the rosette bit into a drill press. Position the board underneath the bit. Bring the bit down and center it on the board.
2. Clamp the board to the drill press table with a hand clamp. Hold onto the board with one hand. Turn on the drill press and bring the bit down with the handle.
3. Bore down into the wood until the profile of the rosette begins to emerge. Stop drilling when the profile is at the depth you desire. Turn off the drill and let the bit stop revolving. Reach up and set the lock on the drill press to lock in the depth.
4. Drill rosettes into the wood moving the board to the left or right 3 1/2 inches at a time, clamping the board down each time until you come to the end of the board.
5. Cut the off the board one at a time using a miter saw. Center each one between cuts.
6. Sand and round the corners and edges of the rosette blocks with 100-grit sandpaper. Use 180-grit sandpaper to smooth the profile of the rosettes.
Tags: drill press, into wood, rosette blocks, into drill, into drill press, , with hand
Crown moldings combined with other wall features make a dramatic statement.
Crown molding is a finishing touch you can add to your home's walls for a kiss of class and elegance. Whether you choose to have traditional white moldings or embrace a bold hue, crown moldings will make a powerful visual statement. Consider the space in your home before choosing colors. It is best to choose one color throughout the space to avoid a disjointed look that comes from changing colors room to room.
White
White crown moldings are a classic finish to any room. They provide a clean, brisk contrast to deep colors and pale colors alike. One idea for variation is to run the crown molding throughout the space. Instead of varying the color, vary the pattern of the molding to divide the space. This is ideal for smaller spaces or for homes where more than one room is visible at a time. The overall feel will be cohesive, yet there will be variation.
Wood
Embrace a rustic or country feel with wood moldings. Moldings can be stained in light, medium or dark shades and will add a different type of drama altogether to any room. Sage green walls with a medium wood tone of crown moldings will bring a bit of nature into your home. Dark walnut tones will accentuate a room in contrast to white or cream-colored walls, especially with exposed beams of the same color. The wood crown moldings can be combined with wainscoting, white crown moldings, medallions and other features you are eager to incorporate into the home.
Black
Black crown moldings are as bold as moldings can be. Use black with rich jewel tones to create a cozy space suitable for a dining room or office. Or choose black to punctuate white walls in a room designed with other black pieces. For instance, a stark white room with black accessories like a canopy bed, a piano or drapes will attain balance with black . In older homes, beware of crooked walls and ceilings, as black will draw the eye to the imperfections.
Colored Moldings
Moldings can be painted any color but will look best if used to either contrast or complement the existing decor. Assess the space to choose a color that will work well in every room. A bold cherry red can tie many color schemes together if enough of the color exists in each space. Other choices include silver, gold and taupe. Neutrals provide an elegant framework you can base your color scheme on for the whole room. Otherwise, choose a bright shade and repeat it throughout with curtains, throw pillows and other accessories.
Tags: crown moldings, crown moldings, your home, choose color, combined with, crown moldings will
Wood cornice moldings can transform a room from simple to ornate.
Wooden cornice moldings are found along the edges of the wall and ceiling and establish a decorative transition between the two. They add to the aesthetic appeal of any room and can transform it from appearing merely simple to elaborately ornate. Creating your own wooden cornice moldings allows you the ability to personalize the moldings to match your personal taste. They can also be customized to match the decor and functionality of the room.
Instructions
1. Measure the room in which you plan to install the cornice molding. This will determine how many boards are required to complete the project. Have additional boards on hand to create extra moldings just in case.
2. Set up the router table and attach the cornice molding bit to its center. Choose a bit with the style you wish the actual cornice molding to replicate. Adjust the depth of the bit and the fence so its full profile will fit the side width of the boards. The measurement between the fence and the bit's bearing should equal the board's thickness.
3. Turn on the router and guide the boards along the router table with one 3-by-96-inch side against the fence and the other 1-by-96 inch side along the . The cornice molding bit will create the decorative edge. Switch the router off.
4. Replace the cornice molding bit with the molding angle bit to create angles to the molding. Adjust the height so it is able to cut the back side of the molding at an angle so it fits against the edge of the wall. The fence and the bearing should be adjusted so the cornice runs along the surface of the router table smoothly. Run the side that measures 3 inches along the router table and the side measuring 1 inch along the angle bit. Run the boards along the table with the cornice molding decoration faced up.
5. Smooth the surface of the cornice moldings using sandpaper. Alternate between medium-grit and fine-grit paper until the molding reaches the consistency you desire. The wood cornice molding is now complete and is ready to be painted or finished with a wood finish before installation.
Tags: cornice molding, router table, cornice moldings, along router, along router table, bearing should
Although washing machines are built for reliability, eventually you're bound to have a problem with yours. To access most of the parts inside most front-loading washing machines, you will have to remove the machines' top panel. This is true of an LG-brand front-loader. Almost every repair, from taking off the control panel to replacing belts, starts with this step. Luckily, LG makes the removal of the top one of the easiest tasks possible. Always follow the proper steps of removal to prevent breaking any of the tabs that hold the lid in place. Broken tabs may cause the lid to rattle during use.
Instructions
Front-Load Machines
1. Unplug the unit from the wall.
2. Pull the washer out from the wall.
3. Turn off the water supply by turning the cold and hot water knobs clockwise.
4. Turn the hose connections with a wrench to loosen them, then unscrew the connections by hand and remove them.
5. Remove the screws along the back of the lid.
6. Lift the panel at the back of the machine. Push the front of the lid forward, toward the back of the unit, and lift the lid off.
7. Slide the front of the top underneath the retaining clips and reinstall the screws when putting the lid back on. Connect the water lines.
Top-Load Machine
8. Unplug the unit from the wall.
9. Slide a putty knife under the top panel of the machine, near the edges of the machine, to press down the springs on the inside.
10. Lift up on the top to release it from the cabinet.
11. Pull on the control panel wires at the connector to disconnect the top from the rest of the machine. Lift the top out.
Tags: from wall, control panel, unit from, unit from wall, Unplug unit
The kitchen and dining room are sometimes the most neglected in the house when it comes to decorating. Usually thought of as more function than form, these food-prep and eating-related rooms are often glossed over. However, a splash of color can go a long way toward spicing up these environments and such traditional paint colors as white and beige can also look great in a kitchen or dining room, depending on your décor.
Classic White
Paint the kitchen walls and cabinets white. This works especially well if you have a light-colored wood floor. The stark, clean feel of the white brings out the vibrant hues of brightly colored fruits and vegetables, which you can display in a bowl on the counter. According to HGTV.com, white represents a "clean, fresh sanitary feel," as well as a "timeless, classic look," which most people would agree are desirable characteristics to invoke in the kitchen.
Dark Ceiling, Light Walls
In your dining room, paint the ceiling black or dark brown and pair it with a light color such as ice blue or beige on the walls. While white is the traditional choice for ceilings, black can add a distinctive ambiance to the room, similar to that of a fine dining establishment. It also works as a way to define the room of an open floor plan.
Dining Room Mural
Paint a mural on one wall in the dining room to represent a special place in your life. Perhaps you vacationed on the French Riviera and it left a lasting impression. Recreate the countryside on one of your walls. In addition to nature scenes, food related scenes also work well. Painting a trompe l'oeil outdoor café on one wall of your dining room can create a light, airy feel in the space, allowing diners to imagine themselves as part of the scene.
Nature as Inspiration
Use the natural colors of fruits and vegetables for paint inspiration in your kitchen. Try a bright, apple green with white cabinets. A deep plum purple looks good with light wood cabinets. Pair light colors with dark cabinets, such as the pale yellow of a banana with cherry wood. Don't go with a dark on dark option as it tends to give a room a heavy, gloomy feeling.
Installing a drop ceiling can cost hundreds to thousands of dollars.
A drop ceiling, also known as a suspended ceiling, drop-down ceiling or false ceiling, is directly installed below the main ceiling. A drop ceiling conceals wiring, piping and ductwork and can provide acoustic absorption, improve heat insulation and disguise a ceiling that's not level. The cost of installing a drop ceiling depends on several factors, including whether it's a project that you do yourself or you hire a professional to complete.
Do-it-Yourself Cost
As of October 2011, materials for installing a drop ceiling yourself in an average-sized room costs about $300. The cost also depends on the kind of drop-ceiling tiles or panels, available in several different textures and styles, that you choose. Additional costs include tools needed to install the tiles. Tools include aviation snips, which cost an average of $10 to $20, and a standard builder's level, which costs an average of $15 to $25.
Professional Installation Cost
As of October 2011, having a drop ceiling installed by a professional costs about $5 a square foot. Aside from the size of the room, the estimate is often based on the type and size of the panels, the ceiling's height and the kind and number of lights on the ceiling. For example, a professionally installed drop ceiling costs an average of $600 or double that for a 225-square-foot room or an average of $2,500 to over $6,000 for a 1,200-square-foot basement.
What's Involved
Drop ceilings are usually installed in the basement to give it a finished look. Drop ceilings are formed by a metal grid suspended on wires or ceiling joists from which tiles and light fixtures are dropped into. Before you install a drop ceiling you must first install a wall molding at the height that you want to install your new ceiling. You must also install the grid suspension system and then insert the ceiling tiles, some of which may have to be trimmed, into place.
Considerations
Installing ceiling tiles, typically 2 or 4 square feet in size, is considered a relatively simple project that takes about two days to complete. Request several estimates from different professionals and make sure to request and check references. Ask about the contractor's experience in installing ceiling tiles, which usually doesn't require a building permit. The professional that you choose to install the ceiling tiles should be bonded, insured and licensed in your state. Find out if there are any complaints about the company by checking with the Better Business Bureau.
Tags: drop ceiling, ceiling tiles, ceiling must, Cost October, Cost October 2011, costs about
Chandeliers are an elegant light fixture for formal rooms.
The lighting in your home is an important element in the interior design of the rooms. Pendant lighting and chandeliers are both types of lighting that suspend from the ceiling. Understanding the differences between the two types of lighting can help you determine the appropriate system for your décor. The style and size of the room are factors to consider when selecting a suspended lighting system.
Suspension Systems
Both pendant lighting and chandeliers use a suspension system that drops the light from the ceiling, but the pendant light hangs straight down from a single chain or pole. The chandelier also hangs from the ceiling with one chord or chain, but branches out with multiple arms. Each arm on a chandelier can hold a light, while a pendant light is typically a single bulb.
Size
When determining whether to use a pendant light or a chandelier in a room, the size of the space is a determining factor. In smaller areas or rooms, the size of an elaborate chandelier can overwhelm the space. There are variations in chandelier size, but the lighting fixture covers a much larger area than a single pendant light.
Decorating Style
Chandeliers work well with traditional or formal decorating styles, while the pendant light fixture is usually associated with contemporary or modern interior designs. Pendant lights use materials such as brushed steel, nickel and bronze. Some pendant lights use colored glass shades as well. Chandeliers use traditional materials, like crystal, steel, wrought iron and bronze. The chandelier works well in a formal area, such as a dining room.
Layers of Light
Chandeliers can provide a greater amount of light in a large open space, such as a room with cathedral ceilings. Pendant lights provide much more focused light in a smaller area. To light a larger area with pendant lights, it may be necessary to use multiple fixtures at various heights. For example, in a kitchen area it may be necessary to use several pendant lights to provide illumination for all counter areas in the room.
Tags: pendant light, from ceiling, pendant lights, larger area, light fixture, lighting chandeliers
A narrow living room can be hard to decorate, but a little imagination can make it possible.
Deciding on a way to decorate a narrow, rectangular-shaped living room is not always easy. You need to find a way to fit things into the room so it does not seem cramped and you can move easily throughout the room. Furniture placement, wall decorations and color will all play an important roll in your efforts, as will lighting. It is possible to create a very attractive room by paying close attention to these details.
Instructions
1. Paint the room using light colors, such as blue, to make the room look and feel more spacious. Use an off-white color to paint the trim. Another alternative is painting all but one long wall the off-white color, then painting that one wall a light color such as green. Place large furniture along this wall.
2. Use smaller pieces of furniture in a narrow space to allow for more than one placement option. Place the furniture in the room for easy traffic flow. Try to keep the furniture in the room to a minimum as well. Use a sofa, a chair or two and a few stands. Find a small entertainment center that will hold all electronics, and consider hanging a flat screen television on the wall above this.
Place the sofa directly across the room from the television and place the chairs so they are angled to either side. The stands can be placed between the chairs and the sofa against the wall or in the corners.
3. Create lighting by placing lamps on stands or floor lamps in corners. Be sure to use energy efficient choices that are easy on the eyes while giving plenty of light. Use curtains rather than heavy drapes, as they tend to make the room look lighter.
4. Hang 8-by-10 inch or 10-by-13 inch framed photographs lined along the wall just behind and above the sofa. Leave 5 inches in between each photo. Place wall sconces to of the television on the opposite wall from the sofa. Hang a shelf on either side of the window or windows for the placement of small nick-knacks or books. Put candles on one stand and a water feature on the other.
Tags: either side, furniture room, living room, make room, make room look, off-white color
If you love the look of exposed beam ceilings but cannot afford to purchase pre-made beams, you can make your own out of wood boards. This will produce thinner strips of wood that can be nailed up to your existing ceiling to give it that exposed beam look. This is an economical take on an expensive project and just about anyone can do it. The total time for this project is around two to five hours, depending on how large your ceiling is and how many boards you will need.
Instructions
1. Measure the width and length of the ceiling. Once you have this figure, decide how far apart you want your beams to be. This will help you determine how many beams to cut from the boards. For example, if the ceiling is 96 inches wide, and you want your beams spaced 6 inches apart, you would need 16 total beams.
2. Trace out the size for each beam from the board of wood. Measure out the width of the desired beam and make a mark at the top of the board with a pencil. Use a straight edge, and trace the line to the bottom of the board. Leave at least a half inch of space between your cut marks to account for user error.
3. Trim the beams out of the wood board with a circular saw. Line up your cut mark with the saw blade. Put the blade guard down and turn the saw on. Feed the board through the saw. Once you're finished with the first piece, continue until all of the beams have been cut from the boards.
4. Sand the wood beams with a fine-grit sanding block. The surface should be smooth to the touch.
5. Stain the wood beams the desired color. Brush on the wood stain, going with the grain of the wood. Let this dry for four hours. Sand the surface lightly.
6. Coat the beams with a clear coat of polyurethane. For a regular finish, apply one coat. For a glossy appearance, sand in between coats and apply at least two coats of polyurethane. Wait for four hours for each coat to dry before adding a new coat. Let the last coat dry for six to eight hours before hanging the beams on the ceiling.
You walk into your bathroom and turn on the light. Instantly the fan comes on, too. You think to yourself how nice it would be if the light and fan came on separately. Looking at the wall you see only one wall switch. You know that it should have two, other bathrooms you have been in do. So how do you go about adding the extra switch? According to electrician Greg Greiner of IBEW local 275, wiring a fan and light on separate switches is a moderately easy task that most any home owner can do.
Instructions
1. Volt testers verify that power to the switch is turned off.
Turn off the power to the circuit. The fuse panel houses either a circuit breaker or a fuse for each leg of power. Be sure that the breaker is switched to "Off" or the fuse is removed. Test that the power is off by removing the plate from the current light switch. Touch the tip from the red wire of the volt tester to the black wire -- the power feed -- on the top side of the switch, touch the black, or the common wire tip to the green ground screw on the switch. If the gauge moves, then power is still feeding into the switch and the proper breaker has not been turned off. Repeat the procedure until you are certain the power is off.
2. Unscrew the existing switch from the wall box and pull it out for access to the wires. Remove the wires from the existing switch. Place a piece of tape around the black wire from the top of the switch. This is the feed wire from the fuse box.
3. Place the double switch box against the wall. Make sure that it lines up with the existing box. Using a pencil, draw an outline on the wall around the new double box. Use the drywall knife to follow the line and cut a larger opening in the wall.
4. Remove the single box from its place. Pull the wiring through the back of the double box and set the box into the larger opening. The tabs on the box flip to the side to secure it in position. Make sure the box is good and tight in its space.
5. Cut the 12-inch piece of new cable wire in half. Use the utility knife to cut open the white outer casing from each piece of the cable wire. Grab the end of each wire in the cable with the pliers and pull them out of their outer casing. Discard the white wire while retaining the black and ground (bare) wires.
6. Take the two black wires previously removed from the new cable. Use the wire strippers to expose a 1/2 inch of the copper wire from the black casing on each end of the two wires. Use the needle-nose pliers to twist the ends from the two black wires to the existing black feed wire. Be sure to twist the wires tightly and secure with a wire nut.
7. Repeat step 6 with the bare (ground) wires twisting in the ground wire from the fan/light. The fan/light ground wire may have a green casing rather than being bare.
8. Twist the ends of the two white (neutral) wires in the box together. Secure it tightly with a wire nut.
9. Attach a black feed wire to the top right screw on each switch. Use the pliers to be sure the wire is wound tightly around the screw, then tighten the screw into the switch.
10. Attach the red wire coming from the fan/light to the bottom right screw of the switch to be used to operate the light. Be sure the wire is wrapped tightly around the screw and tighten the screw to the switch.
11. Attach the black wire coming from the fan/light to the bottom right screw of the switch to be used for the fan. Wrap the wire tightly around the screw and tighten the screw into the switch.
12. Attach a bare (ground) wire to the green ground screw located on the bottom left of each switch. Repeat the steps for securing the wire and screw.
13. Push the switches into position in the box and secure them with the screws provided with the switch. Make sure the wiring is all inside the box behind the switches.
14. Turn the power feed back on. Test each switch to be sure that they perform the proper function. Once proper operation is determined, attach the double switch plate cover over the box.
Tags: screw switch, wire from, around screw, black wire, cable wire, each switch, feed wire
Hockey great Wayne Gretzky lit the torch at the 2010 Olympic Winter Games in Vancouver.
A is a traditional part of the opening ceremonies of the summer and winter Olympic Games. Although the torch relay itself has roots in the ancient Greek Olympics, the torch-lighting ceremony is a modern-day invention that was introduced in the 1936 games in Berlin. The flame and ceremony symbolize many things in the spirit of the games.
Ancient Times
The first Olympic games were held in 776 B.C. to honor Zeus, the patriarch of the Greek gods. At the beginning of the games, a priestess would light a torch using a concave mirror to focus the sun's rays at the altar of Prometheus, just outside Athens. The torch relay ("lampadredomia" in Greek) was meant to maintain the purity of this sacred flame by transporting it as quickly as possible to the altar of Athena, located at the Acropolis.
Modern Revival
Although the first official Olympic games of the modern era were held in 1896, the Olympic flame was first introduced at the 1928 games in Amsterdam. The tradition of commencing the games with a torch relay and torch-lighting ceremony was introduced at the 1936 games in Berlin.
Greek athlete Konstantinos Kondylis was the first runner in the relay that transported the flame from Greece to Germany. The torch passed from runner to runner until it reached Berlin's Olympic Stadium. There, the torch ignited the cauldron and the games officially began.
The torch-lighting was actually part of the Nazi propaganda effort surrounding the 1936 Berlin games, intended to burnish the international image of the Third Reich. Ironically, all countries the flame passed through on its way from Greece to Germany were subsequently annexed or occupied by the Nazis within the next few years.
Significance
According to ancient Greek mythology, fire was a gift to humanity from Prometheus, who climbed Mt. Olympus and stole fire from Zeus. According to legend, the Olympic flame that burns today is the same fire that has been burning since the the first ancient Olympics. According to the IOC, the flame today symbolizes "the light of spirit, knowledge and life," and signifies the passing of Olympic traditions from one generation to the next.
Notable Relays
For the 1960 games in Rome, the flame followed a route that paid homage to ancient Greek and Roman civilizations, passing historic monuments in both countries. For the Mexico City games in 1968, the flame followed the route Christopher Columbus took when he traveled to North America. For the 1976 games in Montreal, the flame was transferred via satellite from Athens to Ottawa via electronic pulse derived from the Athens flame, and then run by relay from there. In the 1992 games, Paralympic archer Antonio Rebollo lit the flame with a burning arrow. At the 1998 summer games in Atlanta, former gold medalist Muhammad Ali lit the torch.
Tags: ancient Greek, torch relay, torch-lighting ceremony, 1936 games,
Beams add architectural detail to a home. They can be used to emphasize a ceiling, as a post to support a horizontal beam and as headers for doors and cased openings. In some cases, a real beam would be cost-prohibitive or the building's structure may not be able to support the load. This is where a simulated wood beam, also know as a box beam, can replace the real thing. The do-it-yourself handyman can make custom box beams with a few woodworking tools.
Instructions
1. Glue the boards of box beam wood as needed to make the size beam you need. An 8-by-12-inch box beam requires two sets of boards 12 inches wide, and one board 8 inches wide. This is for a three-sided box beam. Measure the wood with a tape measure.
2. Run the boards through a jointer to get a perfectly square and flat surface for the boards to be glued together. Apply a layer of wood glue to one of the jointed edges and clamp the two boards together. Be sure that the two boards are aligned as you apply pressure with the clamps. Repeat this step for all three sides of the box beam. Let the glue dry.
3. Place a 45-degree locked miter joint router bit into the router table. Adjust the router bit for the thickness of the material you are using. Test the fit by running some scrap pieces of wood through the router table. Adjust as needed.
4. Set up a featherboard to support a board that runs vertically through the router table. This is for the center board of the box beam. Start the router and run both sides of the 8-inch board through the router table. Run the board with the good side facing away from the router bit.
5. Measure the inside of the 8-inch board between the two routed edges. Cut some pieces of scrap wood the width you just measured to be used as spacers as you glue up the box beam. Use a table saw.
6. Move the featherboards to support the boards as they are run horizontally through the router table. Run one side of the 12-inch-wide beams through the router table.
7. Place both of the 12-inch-wide boards on a work surface. The outside face should be facing the work surface. Apply wood glue to the joint and evenly spread it over the entire joint.
8. Assemble the box beam by placing the 8-inch-wide board into one of the joints that you just glued. Take the second 12-inch board and set it into the routed joint of the 8-inch board. Align the ends of all three boards. Place the spacers in the open end of the box beam to support that side of the box beam.
9. Place a piece of wood 3/4 inch thick by 2 inches wide the same length as the box beam as a clamping block. The clamping blocks help apply even pressure along the glue joint. Place it on the narrow side along the edge of the box beam over the glue joints. Apply woodworking clamps to the box beam along the glued edge. Tighten the clamps until the joint is pulled together tightly and wood glue starts to squeeze out. Let the box beam dry.
10. Remove the wood clamps and scrape off any glue residue. Use a scraper to remove the excess glue. Sand the box beam.
Tags: router table, through router, through router table, 8-inch board, inches wide, wood glue, board into
Popular in mid-century architecture, popcorn ceilings have gone out of fashion, causing many new homeowners to want to remove the texture. Scraping away the little bubbles may not seem like a very difficult challenge, but the dust that this kind of work creates--especially if it contains asbestos or lead--can affect your health for years to come.
Asbestos
Popcorn ceilings installed from the 1950s to 1980s are likely to contain asbestos, a fire-resistant mineral used for insulating homes. In 1978, it was outlawed, but many builders continued to use materials that were already infused with asbestos well into the 1980s. The dangerous fibers were proven to be potentially harmful to the lungs if ingested. In fact, shards of asbestos dust, when inhaled, can rip and tear the inside of the lungs and cause certain varieties of lung cancer. The evidence of asbestos-related diseases can take several years to become apparent. A popcorn ceiling can release asbestos when bits of the ceiling fall or when the texture is ripped out and particles are released into the air. If your home is at risk for asbestos, you should have professionals remove the popcorn ceiling for you.
Lead
Paint and popcorn ceiling texture from the early and mid-20th century are also at risk of containing lead, a chemical that can cause brain damage and learning disabilities. Lead dust can be released by scraping a popcorn ceiling that has been painted with lead paint, for example. The Environmental Protection Agency recommends hiring a lead abatement contractor to get rid of possible hazards from lead in your .
Dust
The general dust that popcorn ceilings can produce with a settling of the house or the odd touch can also be hazardous to your lungs. If you choose to remove the popcorn, you may find yourself breathing in the dust and awakening allergens or sensitive nostrils to all manner of hazards.
You can safely paint asbestos sheets using a low-pressure sprayer.
Asbestos is a naturally occurring silicate mined in various areas around the world, with Russia and Canada being major suppliers. The properties of asbestos, such as resistance to fire, alkali and acid led to its wide usage up to the early 1970s, but its potentially hazardous nature resulted in some types of asbestos being banned. Of the three main types of asbestos -- Crocidolite (blue asbestos), Amosite (brown asbestos) and Chrysotile (white asbestos) -- brown and blue asbestos are more dangerous than white asbestos, according to Ealing (see Reference 1). The mere presence of asbestos does not necessarily create a health risk; rather, the health risks arise from breathing in microscopic asbestos fibers that are released when asbestos is mishandled. You can safely paint asbestos sheets by following the correct handling procedure.
Instructions
1. Prepare the working area. Find a well-ventilated and well-lit area, such as a shed or garage, to perform the paint job. Minimize the number of people accessing the painting area. Use warning tape and notices to restrict access to the area. Close doors that lead to the area you will be working from. (See Reference 2.)
2. Protect nearby surfaces from contamination. Cover surfaces in the vicinity that you do not want to catch paint with 500-gauge polythene sheeting. Attach the 500-gauge polythene sheeting to non-asbestos surfaces with duct tape. (See Reference 2.)
3. Prepare the asbestos surface. Wipe a dusty surface with a damp rag or use the Class H vacuum cleaner to remove dust. Remove small bits of loose board or debris with a damp rag and put the bits in a stout waste container, such as a labeled polythene sack or clear polythene sack. Seal the waste container that has the debris with duct tape. Attend to minor damages on the asbestos sheet if they exist. Place a non-asbestos panel over damaged areas of the asbestos sheet to cover the areas. (See Reference 2.)
4. Apply low-solvent paint on the asbestos sheet. Use a low-pressure sprayer, brush or roller to apply the paint. Apply the paint in a sweeping motion over the entire surface of the asbestos sheet to achieve an even spread of paint. Avoid concentrating on one area when applying paint to avoid run-ins and surface damage. (See Reference 2.)
5. Allow the paint to dry. Read your paint manufacturer's instructions. Let the paint manufacturer's recommended time pass for the paint to dry completely.
Tags: asbestos sheet, , 500-gauge polythene, sheeting, asbestos sheets, blue asbestos, debris with
Integrated suspended ceilings are common in commercial and institutional buildings.
"Integrated suspended ceiling" refers to a second ceiling installed underneath a traditional ceiling. Suspended ceilings conceal damaged ceilings, pipes, heating/air-conditioning ductwork and other objects. Generally, suspended ceilings consist of a combination of main tees and cross tees that form a metal grid system, and drop-in modules or panels. Integrated suspended ceiling systems incorporate various utilities, such as light fixtures, air diffusers or fire sprinklers, into special channels according to the product manufacturer.
Instructions
1. Review the integrated ceiling systems available on the market and make a choice. Sketch the layout of the suspended ceiling project on graph paper. The design depends on the dimensions of the modules or panels. Space the main tees for the grid according to the module dimensions. Determine the location of the main tees and cross tees. In addition, include the position in the grid for integration of the utilities. Use the sketch to calculate the amount of materials required to complete the project.
2. Measure down from the ceiling joist, the height of the suspended ceiling, at several spots around the room. Determine the lowest mark on each wall when working with an uneven ceiling. Draw a continuous line around the walls using the carpenter's level. Use the lowest mark made on the walls to establish the location of the perimeter line for the ceiling system.
3. Run a stud finder across the walls to locate the studs and mark the locations. Cut the tee with aviation snips and install the component around the perimeter. Align the top edge of the molding with the perimeter mark. Secure the molding with 6d nails or other fastener as recommended by the manufacturer.
4. Butt lengths of perimeter main tees together to line long walls. Fit the first length of main tee tightly in corners, butt the second piece against the first piece, and secure to of tee. Cut outside corner main tee 45-degree angles to create a miter joint. Periodically place the carpenter's level against the tees to ensure a level installation.
5. Install the main cross tees according to the plan. Secure the components to the ceiling joists with 12-gauge hanger wire spaced at 48-inch intervals. Attach the cross tees; connect stabilizer bars in large openings of 60 inches or more. Form 6-inch-wide channels with main tees placed 6 inches apart and supported with yokes.
6. Insert yokes, which function as hangers for tees on both sides of the channel, into tabs on the both tees. Secure the yokes to joists with hanger wires. Integrate light fixtures, air diffusers or other utilities in the channel opening according to the manufacturer's instructions, fire sprinkler. Install the modules in the grid to complete the installation.
Tags: main tees, cross tees, suspended ceiling, carpenter level, ceiling systems
A ceiling-fan hum is caused by vibrations amplified by fan parts.
Ceiling fans circulate the air in a room, making indoor conditions more comfortable, but some owners complain about noises they make. Many complaints involve a humming noise that doesn't dissipate when the fan is run at a slower speed. A hum in a ceiling fan is usually caused by the vibration of the motor, and the volume of the noise depends on the mount, housing and blades. Many modern fans have parts that mute the hum, but sometimes these parts fail. Replacement parts may need to be installed in fans, and other pieces might have to be adjusted to hush a hum.
Instructions
1. Add rubber spacers to the area of the ceiling fan between the mounting bracket and the ceiling and between the blades and blade brackets. Some fans come with rubber or paper spacers, but they can wear out quickly, causing them to lose their muffling effect.
2. Put rubber washers in the ceiling fan between the mounting bracket and the motor flange. Tighten screws and bolts on the light shades and fan blades.
3. Replace the rubber flywheel -- which attaches blade brackets to the motor on more expensive ceiling fans -- when it wears out and falls apart. Replacement flywheels for older models may be difficult to find.
4. Run new ceiling fans and those that haven't been turned on in awhile for 12 to 24 hours. Ceiling fans often make a humming noise -- especially at low speeds -- which stops after the fan runs long enough for all the bearings to be lubricated.
5. Check the electrical switch your ceiling fan is connected to. Sometimes the electrical switch produces a humming sound when the fan is running. Replace a faulty electric switch or connect the ceiling fan so you can operate it by using the pull-chains.
Tags: ceiling between, between mounting, bracket, blade brackets, ceiling between mounting, ceiling fans
Acoustic ceilings with popcorn texture are a trademark of older homes. Many homeowners want to update the old ceiling to a more modern look but don't have the money to hire a professional to remove the old ceiling texture, and they have no idea go about doing the job themselves. Removing a popcorn ceiling requires more preparation than execution and is a job most homeowners can manage in a single weekend without expensive tools.
Instructions
1. Move all furniture and decorations out of the room or to the center of the room, and cover them with plastic.
2. Turn off the circuit breaker to the room, and remove ceiling fixtures such as lights or ceiling fans. Leave the circuit breaker off.
3. Cover the floor with thick plastic sheeting, and run the sheeting one foot up the walls. Tape the sheeting in place with masking tape.
4. Cover all electrical receptacles with plastic, and tape the plastic in place with masking tape.
5. Tape the top of every wall with masking tape just beneath the ceiling.
6. Place , such as rosin paper or old towels, on the floor to prevent slipping.
7. Spray water on a five-foot square section of the ceiling using a garden sprayer. Wet the ceiling thoroughly but do not saturate the ceiling, or the water will damage the sheetrock.
8. Scrape the texture from the ceiling with a scraper or putty knife. Some of the texture will fall from the ceiling simply due to the water. Continue to wet sections of the ceiling, and scrape off the texture until the entire ceiling is bare.
9. Roll up the absorbent paper or towels and discard or wash. If you are immediately refinishing your ceiling, leave the plastic sheeting in place.
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If you're in the process of painting your room and are using the color blue, you may choose to adorn the ceiling with blue as well. A number of decorative ideas are worth incorporating into your blue ceiling design scheme that will make your space even more appealing, may even help you to get a good night's sleep.
Blue Appliques
Placing blue appliques on the ceiling will complement a room that is painted blue. For instance, if your child's bedroom has a celestial theme, appliques like stars and mini moons will bring attention to the ceiling, and appliques that glow in the dark may be soothing and help your child get to sleep. For more sophisticated decor, a blue applique in the shape of your monogram, or ones that display images of flowers or butterflies, are ideal. The appliques should be placed in the middle of the ceiling to give the room more symmetry as well as a nice decorative image to enjoy while you're lying down.
Blue Lighting
Installing a blue light fixture to the ceiling will help to bring the blue theme of the room together and properly accent the color blue you've used to paint the walls. For instance, add a chandelier with light blue crystals to complement bold blue walls. A light bulb covered with cobalt blue glass will look ideal in a room where the paint is light blue. Or install a blue ceiling fan in the room, and customize the blades of the fan. Glow-in-the-dark stickers work well for a kid's room, and flowers or border designs in another color blue makes the ceiling fan stand out as well. And adding blue light bulbs to any light fixture adds a soft shade of blue to the room each time you turn the light on.
Blue Paint
Adding a different shade of blue paint to the ceiling gives the room another pop of color and may help to bring some of the other room decor together. For instance, if you've painted the walls navy blue, using a blue that is lighter and has a gray tint to it on the ceiling will help to make the room look a little taller, which gives the illusion of more space. Or, if you've painted the room in a blue pattern, like light blue walls with stripes in a darker blue, you can continue the pattern on the ceiling to make the room look more uniform.
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Choose a vintage wrought iron shelf for your shabby-chic bathroom.
Your bathroom is perhaps the most functional room in the house, but it should be much more than simply serviceable. It can serve as a personal retreat, a place to revel in a hot bath or shower at the end of a long day, a haven where you surround yourself with fluffy towels and your favorite toiletries. Design this sanctuary to reflect your personal style and you may never want to leave.
Spa
This style bathroom features elements designed to pamper you. The fixtures in a spa bathroom might include a large jetted tub with plenty of room to stretch out and a marble- or granite-topped vanity holding double-vessel sinks. A walk-in shower with multiple shower heads and a steam feature soothes aching muscles. The hues in a spa-style bathroom are soothing neutrals like dove white, cream, and light gray with the only splashes of color coming from plants that create a Zen garden feel. Towels are made from the softest cotton and oversized to wrap easily around your body. Warm them on a towel rack manufactured especially for that purpose.
Contemporary
Modern d cor is often sleek and minimal. Contemporary bathrooms adhere to this design style without being cold and uninviting. The materials you choose, like marble, granite, cement, and glass tile, set the tone. Using them to clad floors, walls and shower enclosures gives the room a functional appearance. Installing the floors over an under-the-floor heating system gives them a warm, inviting feel underfoot. The fixtures you choose for a contemporary bathroom might include a one-piece "trough" sink that includes both the sink and the vanity top. Trough sinks are rectangular and can be fitted with double fixtures that allow a couple to use the sink at the same time. A smooth, round, deep-soaking tub reflects contemporary design while adding an almost decadent feature to the space.
Country
Country decorating borrows elements from a number of d cor styles. For a Victorian country bathroom, cover the floor with black-and-white octagonal tiles. Choose a wood floor in a bathroom with a rustic design, paint it white to capture a cottage's airy mood. Beadboard cladding on the walls is appropriate for any type of country bathroom. Paint it white in a Victorian bathroom, pastel green, blue or pink in a cottage bath and choose colonial colors like mustard yellow and gray-blue in a farmhouse-style bath. Pedestal sinks are often found in farmhouse, Victorian and country-style bathrooms and clawfoot tubs are appropriate in all types of country-style bathrooms.
Shabby Chic
A bathroom decorated in shabby-chic style repurposes well-worn items. An old dresser with peeling paint might become a sink vanity, while a worn wicker chair provides a comfortable place to sit while waiting for a refurbished clawfoot tub to fill. Shabby-chic design features pastels, so paint your walls with light green, pink or blue and choose matching towels. Hang a mirror with an intricate but chipped frame and add a romantic touch with a gently worn crystal chandelier .