Hang A Heavy Bag On A Support Beam

Note the exposed beams above these heavy bags.

The heavy bag is a key piece of equipment for any boxing training program. The traditional heavy bag hangs from chains suspended from the ceiling, but given that an average heavy bag weighs roughly 70 lbs., it cannot be mounted just anywhere. Instead, it must be anchored to a support beam, since these are usually the only structures capable of bearing both the weight of the bag and the shock of repeated punching.

Instructions

1. Choose the area where you want to mount the heavy bag carefully: ideally there should be space for the bag to swing and for you to move freely around the bag. Shadowboxing around an imaginary bag in that area will test whether there is enough space for the bag. Once you have chosen the right place, pick out a section of beam above it.

2. Select a drill bit suitable for the hole you need to drill. The beam could be wood or metal, and a different drill bit is necessary for each. The size of drill bit must match the size of the eye-bolt you will use to hang the heavy bag. The size of the eye-bolt, in turn, is dictated by the size of the bag. For a 75-pound bag, use a eye-bolt rated for at least 100 pounds to provide a margin for shock.

3. Climb onto a step-ladder and drill a mounting hole through the middle of the support beam.

4. Push the eye-bolt through the hole. Place a metal washer over the threaded end of the eye-bolt and press it down flush against the support beam. Thread a nut over the bolt and turn it down as far as possible with your fingers. Fasten the nut the rest of the way with a wrench or pliers.

5. Instruct an assistant to hold up the heavy bag while you hook the first support chain to one of the bag's corner S-hooks. Thread the chains through the bolt's eye loop, then hook the chain to the S-hook on the opposite corner. Repeat for the opposite hook.

Tags: size eye-bolt, support beam

Kitchen Layout Ideas

If the key to a man's heart is food, then the heart of the house is the kitchen. There are three basic kitchen designs: the L-shape, the galley and the U-shape. These designs can be accentuated with a kitchen island added to the design where space allows. Regardless of the design, your kitchen needs to be functional.

Work Triangle

When talk about designing a kitchen starts, architects and designers talk about the "work triangle." The reason is that a kitchen needs to contain certain appliances in order to be complete, but they also need to be arranged in such a way that they increase your ability to get through cooking preparation, cooking and then cleaning.

The work triangle refers to a triangle created between the refrigerator, the range and the primary sink. These items are usually located between two or three walls or countertops. Keeping your work triangle smaller will make you more efficient in the kitchen. But, don't keep them too close as you still need room to work. If the refrigerator was next to the sink with the stove next to that, you would become less efficient because, as you pulled something from the refrigerator, you would have to find a counter to prepare it then find a space to keep it and other ingredients near while cooking.

Kitchen Shapes

Your work triangle should be implemented regardless of what shape you choose for your kitchen. A galley kitchen often seems like the most cramped kitchen. It is narrow with two parallel walls of cabinets, appliances and counters. An L-shape kitchen uses two walls also, but they meet at a corner, making the center of the kitchen available for movement, tables or a kitchen island. A U -shape kitchen has three walls meeting at two counters, offering more counter and storage space while still leaving room for a kitchen table or island. Make sure there is ample room around an island or table to still walk around the kitchen and open appliance and cabinet doors.

Where to Place Stuff

Think accessibility when designing the kitchen layout. You already know you should have a work triangle, but that doesn't say where you should actually put certain items. Most people place the sink under a window to make the area brighter and more pleasant for prep and clean up. You may want this area for storage instead. A refrigerator is often best kept near a door for those quick stops in the kitchen during a commercial break for a snack. Rather than move through the entire kitchen, you can simply grab something and leave. If you have a kitchen island, this is a good place to have the range. You will have more space to lay ingredients out while cooking.

Place frequently used items close to the location of use. Bowls, knives and cooking utensils should be kept near your prep station. Glasses should be kept near the refrigerator to quickly grab a glass and drink with minimal effort.

Tags: work triangle, kept near, kitchen island, designing kitchen, kitchen needs, should kept

Neutralize Mold On Gypsum Wall Board

Gypsum board is commonly used to construct household walls. Due to its high porosity, it can absorb moisture like a sponge, which amounts to serious mold risk. If water penetrates your gypsum board after a flood, during periods of high humidity or as a result of weak roof insulation, dark-colored patches may appear along the surface of one or more walls. This is a telltale sign of mold growth.

Instructions

1. Determine the cause of your mold problem. If you recognize a pre-existing problem, like leaky roof shingles, remedy the source of the problem first, in order to isolate the moisture contributing to the mold growth. If you just have really high humidity inside your home, purchase a dehumidifier and turn it on to evaporate the water vapor.

2. Determine whether or not you can reasonably clean up the problem yourself. The CDC defines a "serious" mold problem as occurring when mold covers more than 10 square feet. If you have mold covering mold than 10 square feet of gypsum board, call a mold expert at once. Otherwise, proceed to the next step.

Remove Wood Paneling From Drywall

Wood paneling is the plague of many homes today. What was once classy and sophisticated is now dated and drab. Removing the wood paneling from the drywall in your home can instantly update your home. However, removing wood paneling from drywall is also difficult to do. Learning a few simple steps can help as you update your home.

Instructions

1. Confirm that there is drywall under the wood paneling. Although you might think there is drywall beneath your wood paneling, you will need to make sure. Carefully remove a piece of molding or trim, or a light switch cover. One of these options will usually allow you to see what is behind the paneling.

2. Determine how the wood paneling is attached. Paneling can be attached with nails, glue or a combination of both. This will be the first step in determining how much damage you will need to repair after the paneling is removed. If paneling is attached with nails, it will tend to come off the drywall cleanly. Wood paneling that is glued can cause much more damage to drywall.

3. Remove the wood paneling. Carefully remove the wood paneling. If the wood paneling is nailed into the drywall, this task is fairly simple. However, if the wood paneling is glued, you may need to use a heat gun to help remove the paneling from the wall. A heat gun and paint scraper will also help to remove any glue from the wall.

4. Patch and paint the wall. Once the wood paneling has been removed, you can patch any holes that are in the wall. Use a flat paint to cover any imperfections in the wall. Replace any trim or moldings.

Tags: wood paneling, wood paneling, your home, attached with, attached with nails, Carefully remove

Desgn Recessed Lighting

Recessed lights are an inexpensive way to a brighter room.

Whether illuminating a kitchen island or your face in the bathroom mirror, recessed lighting offers an effective strategy for brightening a room. Also known as cans or top hats, recessed fixtures can be used as a primary light source or strategically placed to highlight artwork or architectural details. Recessed cans are most frequently used in kitchens and bathrooms, but don't feel constrained by tradition; many of the same strategies employed in these rooms will easily carry over to your living room, home office or dim hallways.

Instructions

1. Sketch your room's layout to help you visualize fixture placement. Unless your room is a narrow galley kitchen, avoid lighting schemes with two parallel lines of fixtures that may create a "runway" effect. Instead, use recessed cans around the room's perimeter or in a grid pattern. Add rows or clusters of lights over work zones (such as kitchen sinks, shower stalls, food preparation areas or desks) and near interesting architectural details. If the room has a ceiling fan, leave ample distance around the fan's turning radius to avoid a strobe effect. To highlight a piece of art, place one fixture centered 12 to 18 inches from the object or one fixture on either side of it to create dramatic shadows.

2. Choose the size and type of fixture that will best serve your purpose. Generally, use smaller cans (4 inches) for task areas and larger cans (5 or 6 inches) to illuminate large areas. The fixture size also will determine the distance separating them because larger cans offer a wider light spread. If you plan to install cans over a tub or shower, ensure they are rated as "wet" or "shower location." Some fixtures are approved for "damp locations," but this less stringent classification is reserved for outdoor installations.

3. Measure the area where you'll be installing the fixtures to determine how many to buy. Allow approximately 4 feet between 4-inch fixtures, 5 feet between 5-inch fixtures and 6 feet between 6-inch fixtures. Placing recessed cans within 6 inches of a wall will enable you to angle the beam to bathe the wall in light and make your room seem larger. But keep in mind that this down-lighting technique also can cause elongated scallops of light that not everyone finds appealing.

4. Calculate how many light switches you will need. If recessed fixtures are only one component of the room's lighting design, consider how these lights will interplay with pendants, chandeliers and freestanding lamps. Decide which clusters of lights should have a dimmer switch, and ensure that ceiling fans and key task areas (such as kitchen sinks) get dedicated switches. Remember to place at least one switch at every entrance to the room to avoid stumbling and fumbling in pitch blackness.

5. Select bulbs for longevity and natural color rendering. Halogen and modern fluorescent bulbs offer a crisp whiteness that nicely enhances skin tones for flawless makeup application, and they last considerably longer than incandescent bulbs.

Tags: feet between, your room, architectural details, cans inches, clusters lights

Hang Ceiling Decorations For Fall Weddings

Bring the colors of autumn inside by hanging silk leaves from the ceiling.

Characterized by falling leaves, bright orange pumpkins and hot apple cider, autumn provides an ideal environment in which to plan a wedding. The fall color palette offers a wide variety of rich, bold colors to add flair to your wedding decorations. Themes for fall weddings vary from vineyard-inspired to harvest-time to rustic romance. Decorations typically adorn church pews and the tables at the reception, but consider hanging a few from the ceiling for an innovative touch.

Instructions

1. Suspend lightweight decorations from the ceiling with clear thumbtacks or translucent heavy-duty tape. Choose decorations that weigh very little, such as silk leaves, paper crafts or tulle. Attach your decoration to two feet of clear fishing line for a low ceiling or four feet of clear fishing line for a high ceiling. Push a thumbtack through the fishing line and into the ceiling or place tape over two inches of the end of the fishing line for secure suspension.

2. Install ceiling hooks to hang heavier decorations from, such as hanging baskets full of flowers, acorns and fruit. Make a hole in the ceiling using a drill bit smaller than the thickest part of the ceiling hook's pointed end. Screw the ceiling hook into the ceiling until the base snugly presses against the ceiling. Pull lightly on the hook with your finger to test it. If it's secure, hang your intended decoration. Check the ceiling hooks right before the ceremony or reception to ensure your guests' safety.

3. Hang decorations with adhesive hooks to avoid putting holes in the ceiling. Use these hooks for decorations weighing three to five pounds. Apply the adhesive strip to the back of the hook and press it against the ceiling. Test the hook by pulling down on it with your finger. Hang strings of lights, paper lanterns or ceiling drapes from the hooks. Check the hooks before the ceremony or reception to ensure your guests' safety. Pull the adhesive from the bottom of the hook to remove the hook afterward.

Tags: fishing line, from ceiling, against ceiling, before ceremony, before ceremony reception, ceiling hook

Ideas For Decorating Around A Bath Tub

Brighten up your bathroom with a vase of colorful flowers around your bathtub.

Bathtubs take up a large amount of room in your bathrooms. Decorate the space to help create a relaxing space that complements your bathroom decor and style. The decorations around your bathtub can be entirely for decor only or can be functional, as well. Use the space around your tub to set the tone for the rest of your bathroom decor.

The Walls

Decorate the walls around the bathtub if the walls are solid. Large mirrors will reflect the natural light in the bathroom, making the space feel larger and brighter. Calming pictures of nature or elegant pictures of floral arrangements are natural above bathtubs in traditional bathrooms. Contemporary artwork is fitting in a contemporary bathroom. Hang floating shelves above a decorative towel rack if you prefer not to hang art. Simple window treatments, such as shades and see-through curtains, look nice around a tub. Luxurious curtains can create an elegant or spa-like ambiance.

Bits of Nature

Bring a touch of nature into your bathroom to liven up the space. Place small silk houseplants or ivy around the tub. Large houseplants with elegant urns or baskets are good for a large tub with a spa-like style. Floral arrangements are another option. A single rose in a bud vase can sit on the corner of a smaller tub, or a large arrangement can work for a larger tub. Decorative vases can sit on the corner of the tub or on the floor in front of the tub. Fill the vase with a complementary arrangement or simply group three vases of varying heights and widths.

Useful Items

Roll up towels to place on the tub or in a basket on the tub. Use plain white towels for a spa-like bath, or colorful towels that complement your bathroom's decor. Rolled washcloths are another option if your tub is too small for towels. Arrange the rolled towels into a pyramid with three towels. Fill decorative jars or containers, such as apothecary jars, with colorful bath salts, bath bombs or bath crystals. They add a soothing scent and keep your bath products conveniently near the tub.

Accessories

Accessorize the bathtub with items that relax you and enhance the tub. Anything you add on top of, around or in front of the tub should match the scale of the tub. Tiny items will get lost next to a huge tub, just as large items will overwhelm the space around a small tub. Candle arrangements are a common accessory to add around the tub. Choose scents and colors that you enjoy. For example, use a beach theme if you are most relaxed on the beach and have a light blue, white or cream bathroom. Fit three white or cream pillars of varying heights on a candle plate with sand and seashells in an ocean breeze scent. Candle arrangements can include rocks, pebbles or decorative candle holders in glass, wood or wrought iron. Decorative bath soaps, picture frames, plates, carved statues or figurines are other accessories that can accentuate your tub.

Tags: your bathroom, around your, bathroom decor, your bathroom decor, another option, around your bathtub

Design Ideas For Galley Kitchens

Galley kitchens offer maximum efficiency when space is tight. It helps to make the space look bigger by producing an elongated effect by having the two countertops parallel to each other. Many people have found that a galley kitchen is not only efficient but also very comfortable to work in, as you can minimize your movements around the space.

Aisle Space

The most important element to consider for a galley kitchen is the aisle space. The problem with a galley kitchen is that it can seem confining if the aisle space is too small. Ideally, you should design the aisle space to measure between 4 and 6 feet wide. This allows for movement inside the kitchen for more than one person.

Work Triangle

The work triangle is one of the most important elements that many kitchens are designed around. The work triangle is based on using the refrigerator, the sink and the cook top as the points of the triangle. Ideally, design each triangle leg to add up between 12 and 26 feet in length. The galley kitchen makes all the points of the work triangle accessible. One of the best ways to organize the space is to have the sink and refrigerator on one wall and the range on the opposite wall.

Efficiency

The galley kitchen can also incorporate many things that other larger kitchens have, such as a small peninsula at the end of one leg or a pass-through counter space or window to allow for eating areas. Design the kitchen to have a mixture of open and closed cabinetry to help keep the kitchen from looking and feeling claustrophobic. An example would be to having the pots hanging over the range underneath the hood to allow for storage and easy access.

Lighting

Lighting is also a major design element that needs to be incorporated in the design. Proper lighting in a galley kitchen can help the space function better. There should be a combination of task, ambient, accent and decorative lighting to help serve all your different needs. Often, the lighting can help the kitchen look a larger than it actually is. Blending and layering the different types of lighting will help make the space comfortable and usable. Place task lighting underneath the upper cabinets to help light up the space under them. Place accent lighting above the upper cabinets pointing down toward the cabinets to help light up certain showcase cabinets. Add ambient lighting in between the upper cabinets and the ceiling, if there is room, to create a soft glow around the kitchen.

Tags: galley kitchen, aisle space, upper cabinets, between feet, cabinets help, cabinets help light

Mount Projectors

A ceiling projector is an extremely useful addition to your conference room or in any room where you wish to project images, movies or video. Mounting a projector on the ceiling can be a nuisance, as it needs proper planning, but it has the advantage of saving a good deal of space.

Instructions

1. Select a projector mount that has been designed and made for your projector. Make space on the ceiling for the mount. Ensure the projector and the screen are at the same height, so that the projected images are not distorted.

2. Attach the mount to the ceiling in the position of the projector screen. Make sure that you are attaching the mount to a sturdy location within the ceiling such as a wooden stud. You can locate the studs in your ceiling by purchasing an inexpensive stud finder from your local hardware supply store. Attaching the mount to a stud will ensure

that the ceiling is strong enough to support and hold the mount and projector.

3. Attach the projector to the mount. Adjust the height and the focus of the projector to fit the width of the projector screen.

4. Connect the power cable, electronic cables and video cables to the projector and ensure that all of the cables are safely fastened and secured.

5. Connect the projector to the power outlet to check the connections and the quality of the video and the projected images. If things are running smoothly, it means you have successfully mounted your ceiling projector.

Tags: projector screen, ceiling projector, ensure that, projected images, projector mount, your ceiling

Replace The Shade On A Vanity Bath Light

Bathroom vanity lights have shades around the bulb that diffuse and decorate the room with a warming tone. If your shade breaks or you just want new decor, you can replace a shade in just a few minutes. The only difficulty is that when you replace one shade on a bathroom vanity, you should replace them all. Most vanities have at least three shades--one for each bulb--and having two similar shades and one dissimilar looks unappealing.

Instructions

1. Turn off your bathroom vanity lights. For extra protection, cut off power at the breaker.

2. Unscrew the lightbulb of the socket with the shade you want to replace.

3. Look inside the shade and notice the locking nut surrounding the socket. This nut holds the shade in place.

4. Unscrew the locking nut counterclockwise. Hold the shade with your other hand, because when the nut is free, the shade will come with it.

5. Slide your new shade around your socket. Replace the locking nut by turning it clockwise. Screw in the bulb and turn the power back on.

Tags: bathroom vanity, replace shade, vanity lights, your shade

Bathroom Ideas In Yellow & Blue

Decorate a bathroom with yellow and blue accents.

Bright and light, and cool and soothing are a combination of color extremes that invoke feelings of cool refreshment when yellow and blue decorate a bathroom. Lighter, softer tones conjure up thoughts of the sea breezes along a sandy seashore, while darker yellows and blues are bold ways to add a touch of excitement and the exotic to a bathroom space.

Pastels

A bathroom decorated in soft blue and yellow pastels feels like entering a seaside retreat in the early morning. Using a neutral backdrop of white or off-white paint on the walls makes yellow and blue accents pop out in the bathroom space. Highlight the bathroom with an accent wall; paint the bathroom trim in one accenting color, and paint one wall in the opposite color.

Pastel bathroom accessories extend the theme of the bathroom beyond the wall colors. Curtains, cups, toothbrush holders, towels and washcloths and bathroom mats and rugs are all ways to add more color throughout the bathroom.

Bold Colors

Excitement is the bold colors of blue and yellow in a bathroom. Use these colors to decorate a boy's bathroom or to create an exotic design reminiscent of Morocco or South America.

Paint the walls blue, and use bold blue accents and bathroom accessories throughout the bathroom, or paint the walls a shade of white to make the bathroom's yellow and blue accessories pop out in the design.

Complementary Colors

Yellow and blue are split complementary colors that are balanced by a third color--shades of red or red-orange. Imagine how a touch of peach or pink will accent a bathroom decorated in pastel yellow and blue, giving the space a little more color depth. Or break up the monotony of a bold yellow and blue design with a splash of red or orange. It doesn't take too much of these accent colors to make this statement, just a cup or a soap dish, or a stepstool, basket or hamper.

An Exotic Design

Travel the world when you enter your bathroom decorated in deepened tones of blue, gold, reddish brown and muted orange. Analogous to the blue, a splash of purple adds color depth to the bathroom. Accenting the space with exotic textiles from the Midwest, South or Central America or Africa, brass fixtures, wooden accents and reddish brown rugs, baskets and curtains take a yellow and blue bathroom design to another dimension.

Tags: yellow blue, bathroom decorated, blue accents, accents bathroom, bathroom accessories, bathroom space, bathroom with

Build A Decorative Beam In A Cathedral Ceiling

Ceiling beams add distinction and detail to the upper portion of rooms.

Decorative beams add architectural detail to high cathedral ceilings. Beams may be used to make cathedral ceilings look lower, so rooms feel more cozy and intimate. Decorative beams are not load-bearing, and they will not cause structural damage when they are added or removed, so you needn't get a building permit to install them inside your home. Building a decorative beam takes precision and care, but with exact measurements and the right materials it is a relatively straightforward DIY project.

Instructions

1. Locate the studs in your wall with a stud finder. If you are using a solid piece of wood to fashion the beam, you will need to anchor each endpoint to a stud so it will stay in position. Mark where you will place the beam, based upon the location of the studs, with a pencil.

2. Measure the exact area where the beam will be placed, from endpoint to endpoint, with a tape measure. You may need to use a ladder or chair to reach the ceiling; if so, have a second person keep the ladder or chair stable while you measure.

3. Mark the area where you plan to place the beam with blue painter's tape.

4. Place a piece of 2-by-4 lumber on level, sturdy sawhorses or a worktable where the lumber will be solidly positioned.

5. Measure the wood and mark the length you need using a pencil, so you know where to make your cuts.

6. Saw each end of the wood to size the beam to the right length based upon the measurements you took. The beam should be approximately 1 inch shorter than the length you measured.

7. Place joist hangers on the walls where the ends of the beam will be positioned. The joist hangers must be at least 3 inches below the seam of the wall and the ceiling so you have room to manipulate the beam above the hangers. The U-shaped joist hangers should be positioned so the bottom of the U is level with the floor; the arms of the U will be pointed at the ceiling. Use a screwdriver to screw the joist hangers into the wall.

8. Slide the end of the beam into position on one joist hanger, then the other. Depending on the length of the beam, you may need additional help to position the wood.

9. Screw the beam into position with a screwdriver.

Tags: joist hangers, beam will, area where, based upon, beam into

Arrange Furniture In A 12by16foot Living Room

Arranging furniture in a small room requires planning.

Arranging furniture in a 12-by-16 foot living room follows the same process as furniture arrangement in a room of any size. It is accomplished by following a few design guidelines and using furniture appropriate to the size of the room. The appropriate size is determined by the floor plan which is the starting place for any arrangement. Taking some measurements and investing some time in the floor plan will help save shopping time and help prevent costly mistakes -- such as a sofa that is too big for the room.

Instructions

1. List all the activities that will take place in the room and the furniture required for each activity. For example: reading, large chair; watching TV, two-seat sofa plus one side chair.

2. Draw a to-scale floor plan on 1/4-inch graph paper of the living room. Six inches of floor is represented by 1 square on the floor plan. For example, if the measurement taken of the floor is 16 feet, this is 192 inches, or 32 squares, on the floor plan. Indicate all the windows, radiators, floor vents and doors. Indicate the direction of the door swings.

3. Identify the focal point of the room; this is the area of the room that gets the most attention when someone enters. Indicate this on the floor plan; it may be the picture window or it may be the armoire housing the TV.

4. Cut out to-scale patterns of each piece of furniture listed on the usage list. Print free patterns from decorating websites such as Simpler Pleasures. Print the patterns at 100 percent size and check the measurements after printing. Alternatively, make your own patterns by cutting graph paper to the scale size of the piece. For example, if the sofa is 84 inches by 36 inches, cut a rectangle 14 squares by 6 squares.

5. Place the most important piece of furniture on the floor plan first and orient it toward the focal point; for example, place the sofa facing the picture window, fireplace or TV. Place the secondary furniture next -- the side chairs and reading chairs, for example. Do not place the side tables or coffee tables at this time. Place the furniture in the most logical position for the designated use. For example, place a reading chair in a corner, not in front of the picture window.

6. Mark the pathways that must be traveled to move through the room. Each pathway should be about 36 inches wide. Doors on armoires require 30 inches at the front. Drawers on sideboards require 24 inches of opening space; chairs require 24 inches of space at the sides and front. It is preferable that the traffic pathway be in addition to these measurements. A coffee table should not be less than 16 inches from the front of the sofa.

7. Place the coffee table and side tables on the floor plan. Adjust the sizes by cutting the pattern pieces down by 1/4-inch increments. Remember that 1/4 inch on the pattern piece represents 6 inches less real measurement. For example, if the coffee table pattern piece represents 60 inches long, or six squares, remove two squares to adjust the pattern to represent a table 48 inches long.

8. Write the names of all the pattern pieces and the finished required measurements on a list. Take the list and floor plan with you when shopping. Consider what the ramifications will be to the floor plan if a piece of furniture is purchased that is larger than the listed size.

Tags: floor plan, coffee table, example place, picture window, piece furniture, require inches

Clean Outdoor Lights

Outdoor light fixture

It is easy to forget to clean outdoor light fixtures. They are often taken for granted, both for their decorative addition to a setting and for the welcome (and safe) light they cast. Improve both qualities by cleaning your outdoor light fixtures at least twice a year. It's not difficult to do and doesn't require special equipment. It does, however, require some time and careful attention to avoid getting water into electrical sockets. To avoid the hazardous effects of that misstep, switch off the circuit that powers the fixtures while cleaning them (and for a short time afterward) to ensure everything is dry.

Instructions

Clean Outdoor Lights

1. Make sure the light switch is turned off.

2. If needed, secure a ladder near light fixtures you cannot reach from the ground.

3. Remove any globes, shields or grills with an appropriate tool (most likely a screwdriver); then unscrew and remove the light bulbs (or fluorescent tubes). Set all parts aside.

4. Fill two large buckets with hot water and add dish soap. Agitate the water to create suds.

5. Place removed items (not the light bulbs) in one bucket.

6. Saturate a rag or sponge with sudsy water from the second bucket, and use that to wipe down the parts of the light fixture that you could not remove. Keep water from running into open sockets.

7. Rinse the fixed pieces with water; remove the loosened pieces from their bucket, wipe them down and rinse them as well.

8. When all pieces are dry, apply polish or wax to metal parts if desired; use glass cleaner to clean glass globes or shades.

9. Wipe off light bulbs or tubes with a damp rag (or replace them if burned out), being careful not to get the end that screws into the socket wet; then reassemble the light fixtures.

Tags: light fixtures, light bulbs, Clean Outdoor Lights, light fixture, outdoor light, outdoor light fixtures, Outdoor Lights

Remove Indoor Plastic Ceiling Lights

There are a number of different kinds of indoor plastic light fixtures. Ceiling lights attach to the ceiling and provide lighting for a room or hallway. Although the process may vary slightly between lighting fixtures, the basic ceiling light removal procedure is the same, no matter what type of indoor plastic ceiling light you have.

Instructions

1. Turn off the breaker switch that gives power to the room, if possible. Keep in mind this may also turn off the power for other items, such as refrigerators. If this isn't possible, at least turn off the light switch. Determine if you can access the light fixture without a ladder or stool. Grab one if necessary.

2. Inspect the indoor plastic ceiling light. Some fixtures have a plastic or glass cover, while others do not. If yours has a cover, remove it. Some covers have screws, while others simply slide off.

3. Remove the lightbulbs from the unit by twisting them counterclockwise. Dispose of the lightbulbs.

4. Inspect the base of the fixture where it attaches to the ceiling. You should see screws that attach it to the mount. They also may be behind the bulb socket.

5. Remove the screws from the fixture and pull it straight down. Hold on to it carefully -- it's still attached to wires. Remove the wires from the fixture to separate the plastic ceiling light from the ceiling.

Tags: ceiling light, indoor plastic, plastic ceiling light, from fixture, indoor plastic ceiling, plastic ceiling

Decorate Cabin Bathrooms

Decorate a cabin bathroom with rustic charm.

Cabin bathroom decor is popular with homeowners who desire a relaxing, nature inspired house design. Whether the architecture of the home includes rough interior cabin beams or smooth traditional walls, you'll find many ways to amplify the bathroom space and give it a lodge-style appearance. By incorporating a rich color palette, wood or slate floors, wildlife motif lighting, wooden elements and appropriate rustic accessories, you can create your own cabin bathroom area. The result is a room with function and style with a touch of rustic flair.

Instructions

1. Use a nature-inspired color palette. To serve as a backdrop for the entire lodge-style bathroom design, select a room color palette for surfaces like dry-walled walls, window treatment and shower curtain fabrics, and other rustic accessories reminiscent of nature. Hues ranging from sage green to tan to red are appropriate for this style of decor and add optimal visual appeal to the space.

2. Add rustic lighting. Choose wall sconces and ceiling fixtures in copper or wrought iron finishes with nature-inspired motifs such as pinecones, deer, bears, fish and trees. To further amplify the cabin bathroom decor, incorporate a small accent lamp with a faux rawhide shade on a side table or vanity.

3. Hang a lodge-style mirror. Enhance the space above the sink area by selecting a rustic-themed vanity mirror with an outer edging frame depicting tree branches, or a frame with simple birch wood accents, to create a focal point that is stylish and functional at the same time.

4. Incorporate a slate or wood floor. Natural materials like these make ideal surfaces for a lodge-style bathroom. The rough, irregular lines of these flooring choices amplifies the look and feel of the room. Scatter a few braided area rugs as a finishing accent to the floor to provide warmth and visual interest to the design.

5. Add a wood vanity. Cabin-style decor is all about nature. One way to highlight this element is by choosing a bathroom vanity in slightly distressed varieties of hickory, mahogany, pine or oak woods. Finish off the piece with wrought iron hardware for a vanity with rustic flair.

6. Accessorize the lodge-style bathroom. Add artwork in natural themes to the walls. Roll up towels and store them in wicker baskets next to the sink, and select a shower curtain that coordinates with the color palette for a cabin bathroom with style.

Tags: cabin bathroom, color palette, lodge-style bathroom, bathroom decor, bathroom with

Install A Bathroom Vent Fan Light

Remove unwated moisture in your bathroom by installing a vent fan.

A bathroom vent fan makes your bathroom more inviting by removing odors, and can protect your walls from mildew and mold caused by condensation created after showering or hot baths. Bathrooms without windows cannot remove moisture or odor because they lack proper ventilation. Run the vent fan approximately 10 minutes after exiting the bathroom after showering or bathing to ensure it removes all moisture from the air. Installing a vent fan requires basic electrical and carpentry skills.

Instructions

1. Turn the power off to your bathroom at your home's main circuit box. Drill a pilot hole through the bathroom ceiling as your guide for installing your bathroom vent fan light. The vent fan light kit contains a template explaining where to drill the pilot hole and install the fan unit.

2. Cut an opening in the ceiling in the attic (or room) directly above the bathroom where you made your pilot hole with your saber saw. Remove any insulation before cutting or installing the vent fan. This can only be performed above the bathroom, as you must obtain entrance above the bathroom to cut the hole for the vent fan.

3. Screw the unit's mounting bracket securely to the framing inside your attic with screws and your drill. Before securing the unit, verify the fan rests level with the surface of the ceiling in the bathroom below you.

4. Run flexible duct to the soffit (the exterior underside of the overhang on your roof) on your home, or to a roof-mounted outlet from inside the attic. Run the ducts as straight as possible to increase the efficiency of your fan unit.

5. Fish (feed) the two-wire cable provided with your bathroom vent fan light to the switch with fishing tape, according to the directions on the tape. Run the three remaining wires from the switch directly to the unit.

6. Connect the wires inside the vent fan unit according to the manufacturer's directions. Typically, color coded wires connect together.

7. Install any remaining parts in the housing unit, and plug them in to their appropriate labeled receptacles.

8. Turn the power on in the bathroom and test the vent fan light. If the vent fan light works correctly, place the grill on it and secure with clamps or screws.

Tags: your bathroom, above bathroom, bathroom vent, pilot hole, vent light

Mount A Projector To A False Ceiling

Mounting a projector to a false ceiling requires a mount and extension.

Mounting a projector in a false ceiling is a common project in finished basements. Dropped ceilings, as they are commonly called, allow for easier access to joists and rafters, making the mounting and wiring process easier. Additionally, selecting a more basic mount, perhaps less cosmetically appealing, may be a good money-saving option, since ceiling tiles will obscure much of the mount. Securing a projector to a false ceiling is a good way to get a real large-format image.

Instructions

1. Measure the throw distance from the projector to the screen or projection surface. Consult the projector's model, as this will vary from unit to unit.

2. Have a qualified electrician install an AC power outlet in a metal junction box next to the ceiling.

3. Remove the ceiling tile most centered and properly distanced from the projection surface. Hold the ceiling bracket against the rafter or joist, and drill through the bolt holes into the mounting surface.

4. Place the mount against the surface. Drive the included bolts and washers through the holes in the mount with the ratchet and socket.

5. Attach the extension pole with the appropriate model-specific hardware and proper screwdriver.

6. Measure the location of the extension pole's drop relative to the ceiling tile opening. Measure the removed ceiling tile to determine the location for the hole that needs to be cut. Cut the hole with the drywall saw, making sure to accommodate the size of the cable bundle that will pass through.

7. Remove the ceiling tiles necessary to gain access to an area suitable to route the A/V cables from the electronics to the projector.

8. Drill a hole every 18 inches, and manually screw in a drive ring. Route the cables from the equipment through the rings to the projector location. Replace the tiles.

9. Turn over the projector. Screw the projector bracket to the threaded inserts on the bottom of the projector with the appropriate screwdriver.

10. Attach the projector bracket to the extension pole. Connect the cables to the projector and reattach the cosmetic covering, if applicable.

11. Fine tune the projector's alignment with the horizontal and vertical lens shift and the unit's remote.

Tags: ceiling tile, extension pole, false ceiling, projector false ceiling, cables from, ceiling tiles, Mounting projector

Take A Mould Of Coving

One problem in home restoration is repair a piece of decorative moulding for coving that is no longer manufactured or sold. Mouldings around fireplaces or light fixtures may be damaged or partially broken, or perhaps you've found a piece of architectural coving that you would love to reproduce and use elsewhere or in a bigger project. The solution is to take a latex rubber cast of the coving and use the cast to reproduce the original moulding.

Instructions

Instructions

1. Find a section of the moulding you want to reproduce in a length of up to a few feet.

2. Clean and sand the moulding to get it as near perfect as possible. Any blemishes will be reproduced in your mould.

3. Brush a coat of the latex mould onto the surface to be moulded. In the case of the coving, this will be the front and edges, not the back. Allow the rubber to dry, or speed up the drying process with a heat gun or hair dryer, being careful not to overheat and burn the mould (generally two to four minutes).

4. Recoat the coving with the rubber moulding five or six times, allowing the latex to dry between each coat. The material will take on a whitish, translucent look. Don't worry about exterior drips.

5. Reinforce the strength of your mould by moulding in a layer of cheesecloth or gauze. Cover the moulding with the cheesecloth and brush it with the latex, using the brush to poke down any bubbles or wrinkles.

6. Let the mould dry for 24 hours.

7. Gently pull the completed rubber mould from the coving, starting at one edge and peeling it back. The mould should pull away cleanly and you will have successfully taken a mould of your coving.

Tags: coving that, your mould

Design Ideas For A Bedroom & Living Room Together

Decorating a one-room apartment is challenging.

A bedroom combined with a living room is often called a studio. It may or may not have a separate kitchen area. Sometimes the kitchen is simply a cubbyhole with small fridge, four-burner stove and microwave tucked in the corner of the room. Decorating a bedroom and living room together is a challenge to maintain privacy and still have room for guests and entertainment.

Double Duty

Every item in a small studio or combination bedroom and living room should do double duty. Storage is at a premium. Choose a desk that turns into a dining room table for two to four people. Or pick a table that has a drop leaf and can slide against a wall. The table is used as a desk and converts to a dining room table. Select a sofa that converts into a bed or use a futon. Test the mattress to make sure it's comfortable. A twin bed with a pleated underskirt and tailored bedspread is a sofa by day with pillows at the back and bed by night. Use hinged baskets as side tables.

Partition

No matter what you do to a queen size bed or double bed it's going to look like a bed. It's uncomfortable to have friends of the opposite sex over when the bed is always looming. Partition the bed so it's no longer visible from every place in the room. Place the bed at one end of the room away from the entry. Use a shoji Japanese screen, hanging curtains or even roll-up blinds from the ceiling to floor to hide the bedroom area. Partitions could be shutters, a folding screen or bookcases. Removable or adjustable partitions allow you to change the space for an airy look when you're at home by yourself.

Define by Color

Even small spaces still allow for different functions within the room. Dining, sleeping, office and entertaining spaces are differentiated through color while maintaining a cohesive look. The trick is to choose colors in the same shades. Your main color scheme might be cornflower blue and chocolate brown. The sleeping area darkens both of those colors. The bedspread is a sapphire blue print, while the throw pillows are a deep brown. The cornflower blue shows up in window treatments, and the chocolate brown in accessories. The entertainment area focuses on light blue and milk chocolate. The room still flows because the color scheme is still blue and brown, but each functional area is just a little different.

Tags: bedroom living room, chocolate brown, color scheme, cornflower blue, dining room, dining room table

Clean Cedar Walls

Cedar paneled walls are durable and long-lasting.

Favored for its natural aroma and reddish-brown grains, cedar wood paneling adds rustic charm to home interiors. Cedar paneling is prevalent in closets as it naturally repels moths and other pests that consume clothing. Although low maintenance, cedar wall panels inevitably become dirty. The narrow crevices within cedar panels accumulate dust and grime, which detract from cedar walls' appearance. Since cedar is an uncoated, raw wood, it requires mild cleaning techniques to prevent damage. Regularly clean cedar wall panels to preserve their naturally attractive appearance.

Instructions

1. Wipe the cedar wall panels with dry microfiber cloths to lift excess dust. Remove as much dust as possible, replacing the cloths as they become dirty. Stand on a step stool to access unreachable portions of wall panels.

2. Glide a vacuum brush attachment along the narrow crevices in the cedar panels to extract hidden dust. Stand on the step stool to vacuum unreachable areas of wall panels.

3. Fill a pail with fresh, plain water. Moisten a clean microfiber cloth in the water. Wring out the cloth thoroughly.

4. Wipe the lightly moistened cloth along the length of one of the cedar wood panels to remove stubborn grime. Stand on the step stool, if necessary.

5. Rinse the cloth thoroughly in the pail of water. Continue wiping each cedar wall panel with the dampened cloth, concentrating on just one wall panel at once. Rinse the cloth thoroughly after cleaning each panel, and replace the rinse water often.

6. Let the cedar wall panels air-dry completely.

Tags: wall panels, cedar wall, cedar wall panels, cloth thoroughly, Stand step, Stand step stool

Find Old Ceiling Tile

Salvaged and recycled materials can add a unique flavor to your home.

Salvaged materials from old houses are becoming a hot commodity, as people make "greener" choices for building or decorating their own home. Additionally, vintage materials -- such as old ceiling tile -- can give a newer home a unique look. Some people prefer to use the materials in new ways, such as for home and garden decor or crafts. The benefit to the renewed interest in pieces from old homes is that they continue to become easier to find.

Instructions

1. Scour vintage and antique decorating shops for old ceiling tile; these are often used as decorative panels to be hung or placed on display. Shop owners often purchase these at auctions or estate sales and place them out for resale. If there are only a few out but your project requires more, inquire of the owner to see if additional tiles are being stored. The entire stock may not be placed out for purchase due to space limitations.

2. Read the local newspaper for articles on old houses that are being torn down or renovated. Contact the owners to see if you can salvage old ceiling tiles from the property. This can be a benefit to the owner or contractor, who can save labor or costs in carting off the old ceiling tiles. If the owner does not wish to give them away, you may be able to purchase them for less than from a resale facility.

3. Seek out warehouses and salvage yards that specialize in recycled and salvaged architectural materials as part of the "going green" effort. Locally, there may be a Habitat for Humanity warehouse that offers such materials. Another warehouse, "Second Chance" in Baltimore, also provides job-training, giving individuals a career option as the organization dismantles houses for free, recycles and provides salvaged materials to interested buyers.

4. Search online, both locally and countrywide, to find sellers of old ceiling tile. Websites such as Craigslist.com and Ebay.com are obvious choices to research; however, numerous online stores offer vintage and antique ceiling tile for purchase. A few examples are OhmegaSalvage.com, GreenEcoServices.com, Re-Store.org and ShaverBrothers.com.

5. Attend auctions and estate sales to look for old ceiling tile. These types of sales are often advertised online or in local newspapers. While the house may be auctioned off separately, savvy auctioneers and those knowledgeable about antiques may persuade owners to sell pieces of a vintage house for a larger profit.

Tags: ceiling tile, auctions estate, auctions estate sales, ceiling tile, ceiling tiles, estate sales, vintage antique

Fix Peeling Ceiling Paint

Fix Peeling Ceiling Paint

Peeling paint is not only unattractive, but it can be a sign of bigger problems, such as a water leak or mold or mildew growth. If you have peeling ceiling paint, the best way to deal with it is to fix it as soon as possible. Otherwise, the peeling paint may extend to your entire ceiling. Luckily, it is not too difficult to fix peeling ceiling paint. Follow the steps below to find out how you can remedy this problem.

Instructions

Fix Peeling Ceiling Paint

1. Prepare the area. Lay the tarp down over the floor and move furniture out of the way. Otherwise, you will end up with flecks of paint all over everything. Set your ladder up underneath the peeling area. Make sure you have an electrical outlet nearby for the sander.

2. Prepare yourself. Put on goggles. You do not want to get peeling paint in your eyes. Consider wearing long sleeves and gloves as well to protect your skin.

3. Climb the ladder. Using a paint scraper, scrape as much of the peeling paint off as you can. If you end up with large divots, use the putty knife and spackle to fill in uneven areas.

4. Sand the edges. Use the sander to make sure any rough edges (from the spackle or where the peeling paint was removed) are smoothed out.

5. Paint the area to match the rest of the ceiling. If you are unsure of the correct color, take one of the peeling pieces of paint to your local hardware or garden center and have them match the paint color.

Tags: Ceiling Paint, Peeling Ceiling Paint, peeling paint, paint your, Peeling Ceiling

Mount A Light Fixture To A Drop Ceiling

A suspended ceiling is a secondary ceiling installed below the main ceiling. The most common form of a suspended ceiling consists of rails and drop-in panels. These ceilings can conceal items such as plumbing equipment and HVAC duct work. It is also possible to install light fixtures into these ceilings.

Instructions

1. Calculate how many light fixtures you will need and where they are to be installed. The standard drop ceiling panels will be either 2 feet by 4 feet, or 2 feet by 2 feet. Purchase light fixtures that will match these sizes and fit smoothly into the existing framework of the ceiling. The number of fixtures needed and their location will depend on how you intend to use the area and the amount of light required for that purpose.

2. Remove the existing ceiling panels at each of the locations where a light fixture will be installed. Raise up the panel and turn it at a slight angle to allow it to be brought down through the opening. While removing the panels, examine the area to locate the nearest accessible electrical supply.

3. Install the wiring, beginning at the power supply and proceeding to each of the light fixture locations. Use three-strand wire containing a black, white and green wire. The black wire is the 'hot' wire, the white will be the neutral while the green is your ground wire. Insert these wires into a flexible conduit that you will run to each light fixture. Multiple light fixtures can be wired in a series so they will all be controlled by a single switch and circuit. On 110-volt fixtures, connect the hot and neutral wires to each fixture, concealing all wires inside the flex conduit.

4. Tie additional hanger wires at the corners of each of the openings. Tie the wires to the existing framework at each of the four corners of the opening. Extend the wires up to a secure point overhead. Use a level to make certain the frame remains level when the new wires are in place. These wires will be necessary to support the additional weight of the light fixture. Use at least four wires per fixture, although more may be installed as a safety measure.

5. Place the light fixture in the framework. Turn the fixture at a slight angle to allow it to pass through the opening. Allow it to rest on the framework, checking to be certain it is level and secure. Attach your wiring to each of the light fixtures, making certain all wires are secure with no bare wires visible. Remove an adjacent panel to gain access to the light fixture.

Tags: light fixtures, each light, feet feet, light fixture, light fixture

Decorative Ways To Hide A Loadbearing Ceiling Beam

Make a load-bearing beam an architectural feature on your ceiling.

A load-bearing ceiling beam can be an eyesore in your room, especially if the exposed beam contrasts with the ceiling. Don't let the beam dominate your room's decor, enhance it with decorative techniques that hide its true function. Turn the beam into a focal point or make it disappear with paint, stain and other materials to help disguise its function.

Rustic Beam

Make the load-bearing ceiling beam appear to be a rustic addition to your space. Distress or antique the beam by striking it with hammers and chains to create dents and gouges in the wood. Stain the beam darker than the ceiling to enhance its rustic appeal.

Blend

Help the beam blend into the ceiling by painting or staining it, or boxing it in with drywall and giving it the same finish as the ceiling. Even though the beam protrudes from the flat ceiling, if it is the same color or design as the ceiling, it will not be as noticeable.

Stencil

Paint and stencil a decorative border along three sides of the load-bearing beam to turn a necessity into a focal point. Paint the beam to complement your ceiling or to stand out against it before applying the stencil. Add your choice of stencil imagery on both vertical sides of the beam and on the floor-facing horizontal side of the beam.

Faux Beams

Attach decorative faux beams to your ceiling so the load-bearing beam appears to be one of a series, by design. Stain the beams to match each other and to stand out against a light colored ceiling. Decorative faux beams, available at home improvement stores and online retailers, are lightweight but they look like real wood. Some of the faux beams are made from real wood and have hollow centers; others are crafted from urethane.

Mosaic

Cover the load-bearing beam with colorful mosaic tiles to create a striking focal point in the room. Glue shimmering glass or opaque ceramic tiles to the wood with waterproof construction adhesive or one-part epoxy. Many mosaic tiles are available in sheets with a mesh back to simplify installation. The spacing is already set; attach the mesh back to the beam, wait for the glue to dry and then grout between the tiles.

Metal

Cover the wood beam with metal craft foil to highlight the line across the ceiling. Hammer copper foil with a ball-peen hammer or emboss designs into aluminum foil create interesting textures in the thin metal. Cut the metal to fit the beam with tin snips and glue it in place with waterproof construction adhesive.

Tags: load-bearing beam, beam with, ceiling beam, focal point, your ceiling

Remove A Drop Ceiling

Many basements and commercial buildings in America have drop ceilings installed. They are quick to install and allow easy access to plumbing, electrical and mechanical items that are installed above the ceiling. However, from time to time, it is necessary to remove a drop ceiling, either to replace it with a new one or install drywall.

Instructions

1. Remove the ceiling tiles from the drop ceiling grid. Push up from the bottom side of the tile until it moves away from the grid. Twist the tile at an angle to the side of the grid and slide it down out of the grid.

2. Flip the circuit breaker to the ceiling lights located in the drop ceiling. Disconnect the light fixtures from the electrical supply wire. Use wire nuts to cover the exposed ends of the electrical supply wire.

3. Cut the support wires that are attached to the lights and remove the lights from the ceiling.

4. Use string or metal wire and support any vents or returns that are in the ceiling so that they will not fall when the grid is removed.

5. Cut the remaining support wires that are attached to the ceiling grid.

6. Unsnap the short tees from the main tees and remove them. Continue removing tees until they are all down.

7. Remove the support wires from the joists above. Now that they have been cut at the bottom to free the grid, it is a simple matter to cut them where they fasten to the joists.

8. Use a drill to remove the screws that held the support wires in place.

9. Remove the wall track to finish the removal of the drop ceiling system. This will either be nailed or screwed into the wall.

Tags: drop ceiling, support wires, ceiling grid, electrical supply, electrical supply wire, supply wire

Put Glitter On A Ceiling

Adding glitter to clear-coat varnish is the easiest way to apply it to the ceiling of a room.

Every little girl goes through a princess phase. She'll want to dress up like a princess, watch princess movies, hear princess stories, and act out princess scenes. She may even ask to decorate her room in honor of her favorite princess and might want to glam it up with a little touch of glitter. Because glitter can be messy, it is best used in a place that won't be touched. The ceiling is a perfect spot for glitter in a room and can be easily added to clear-coat varnish for quick application.

Instructions

1. Visit your local craft store to pick up the items you'll need. When selecting glitter, choose a color that will coordinate well with the existing colors in your room. For example, if your room's walls are white and the carpet is pink, choose a pink glitter that will best match the floor.

2. Mix the glitter into the clear-coat varnish. Sometimes glitter is simply tossed onto the ceiling while the ceiling paint is still wet. While that method works, it is terribly messy. Mixing glitter into a clear-coat varnish will allow the color of the glitter to shine through against your ceiling's paint color. Mix your glitter varnish creation using one part glitter to three parts varnish and combine using a paint stirrer.

3. Apply the glittery varnish to the ceiling. Pour the varnish into a paint tray just as you would traditional paint. Use your paint roller attached to the extension rod to apply the mixture to the ceiling, and use a paint brush for applying the mixture to corners of the ceiling. Fill in any splotchy areas.

Tags: clear-coat varnish, ceiling paint, glitter into, glitter into clear-coat, into clear-coat, into clear-coat varnish, that will

How Strong Are 2x6 Joists Over A Garage

Reinforcing your joists increases load-bearing capacity.

The wooden joists or beams over your garage help hold your roof in place. If you have an attic over your garage, these joists also bear the load of your attic flooring and any materials you store in the attic. If you need a storage area above your garage, strong ceiling joists are necessary to support the added weight. If the materials you intend to store are particularly heavy, 2-inch by 6-inch ceiling joists may require additional support.

Strength

The strength of your 2-inch by 6-inch ceiling joists depends on the length of each joist and whether or not your builder installed additional ceiling support. When additional support is not a factor, longer ceiling joists will always be weaker than shorter ones because the distance between the supporting structure on either side is greater. Each joist's weight also helps determine its strength. All beams must support their own weight in addition to any weight you place upon them when building an attic floor or storing belongings. Longer joists weigh more and suffer greater strain from the very beginning - making them weaker than shorter joists.

Location

A ceiling joist supports weight differently, depending on where that weight is placed. Your 2-inch by 6-inch garage joists, for example, are stronger on either end than in the center. This is because a supporting structure holds each end of the joist aloft. The center of each joist is the further point from the supporting structure on either side, making it the weakest point of the beam. Thus, it is best to place heavier loads closer to the wall than in the center of the attic floor. Doing so places the least strain on the joists.

Considerations

Although you can construct a garage using thicker, stronger joists, 2-inch by 6-inch joists are sufficient for most garages - even if you intend to build an attic storage area above your garage. Fine Homebuilding notes that 2-inch by 6-inch garage joists will support a weight of up to 50 pounds per square foot. If you overload your garage's ceiling joists, the ceiling may appear to sag from the strain. While your 2-inch by 6-inch joists can collapse from too much weight, such a scenario is uncommon.

Strengthening Your Joists

Your 2-inch by 6-inch joists will bear a heavy load, but you can add additional support to further strengthen each beam and give yourself peace of mind. Installing additional joists alongside existing joists - a process known as sistering - increases the weight your existing joists will support. If you select this option, slightly wider joists, such as 2-inch by 8-inch joists, give your garage ceiling even greater strength and support than adding more 2-inch by 6-inch beams.

New Construction

If you have not yet constructed your garage, consider doing so with I-joists rather than 2-inch by 6-inch joists. Rather than being beams, I-joists are shaped like a letter "I" and will generally support a heavier load than 2-inch by 6-inch beams. While you can replace your existing 2-inch by 6-inch joists with I-joists, it is easier to build the garage using I-joists from the beginning than to remove and replace existing beams.

Tags: 2-inch 6-inch, your garage, 2-inch 6-inch joists, 6-inch joists, ceiling joists, joists will

Bathroom Vanities Colors

White bathroom vanities look especially classy with silver or gold accents.

The vanity in your bathroom space can either complement the main color in the room or add a visual contrast, making the vanity a bathroom's signature piece. Warm tones can add sophisticated brightness to a bathroom, while "cool" shades will promote an air of relaxation. Patterned vanities can serve as impressive focal pieces for a bathroom as well.

White

White is a classic and safe color for a vanity, but the color can also serve as a visually appealing contrast when the bathroom is a rich shade of brown or a dark gray color. Off-white vanities that are installed on tan or cream-colored bathroom walls are elegant monochromatic additions to a bathroom. If you've used particularly striking colors for the rest of the bathroom, like jewel-tone shades of aubergine or royal blue, a creamy shade of white is best for the vanity; if the feature is detached from the wall, you can add a seat cushion in blue or purple to the vanity stool.

Black

A sleek and modern bathroom will look even more so with a black vanity. If the rest of the walls are white or gray, black vanity counters and stools add direct color contrast that is visually appealing. Black also looks great with medium brown shades like nutmeg or cocoa; a detached black vanity is the perfect addition to a safari-themed bathroom where leopard or cheetah print linens and area rugs are part of the decor. It's also a good idea to add a vanity stool to the space with a white or tan seat cushion to add more modest color.

Red, Orange or Pink

Warm colors like orange, pink and red give a pop of color to a tan or reddish brown bathroom; a vanity in one of these colors can easily become the focal point of the bathroom. If the vanity is attached to the wall, paint the front of the vanity counter or mirror border a cranberry red or burgundy to complement the cinnamon shade of brown in the room. A soft shade of pink is the perfect addition to a vanity in a chocolate brown bathroom, and orange counters or vanity stools add vitality to a bathroom with golden brown tones.

Blue, Green or Purple

A purple vanity will stand out in a charcoal gray bathroom, particularly if the purple is a deep shade like eggplant. Lilac vanities and stools are a pretty addition to a bathroom with ivory or pastel gray walls. Other cool colors, like green and blue, provide a soothing burst of color to black bathrooms; a wooden mirror border in cobalt blue is eye-catching and modern, and a Kelly green detached vanity with silver or gray accents is a sound choice for a bathroom with pistachio green, or even aqua blue, walls or artwork.

Tags: bathroom with, black vanity, bathroom vanity, brown bathroom, colors like

Restore Antique Ceiling Tin

Restoring antique ceiling tins adds beauty to an old home.

If you buy a Victorian house or an old hotel that was built in the 1800s, you may find you are the proud owner of antique tin ceilings. Why not restore them to their original beauty? You may be removing old lead paint at the same time, so this process requires many protective measures due to toxicity and safety issues.

Instructions

Restoring Painted Antique Tin Ceilings

1. Prepare the room. Tape up double thicknesses of plastic sheeting stretching from the top of walls down to floors. Cover the floors and tape at the baseboards. Make sure any fixtures or furnishings are covered. Tape the sheets together to make seams. Leave a small slit for entry and exit. In essence, you'll be making a "plastic room." If you're not dealing with toxic lead paint, you just need to sheet enough for easy clean-up from falling paint chips. .

2. Wear protective gear including gloves, a mask, a hood to cover your hair, a smock and booties. After use, do not wear this gear into the rest of the house; take it off and put it on right outside the slit in the plastic.

3. Set up ladder, and position yourself to sand blast the paint off the ceiling tiles. You'll need a high-powered sander or abrasive pad attached to a high-powered drill, especially if there are multiple paint layers. It's just like sanding any other paint off, but don't go so far you damage or dent the tin. For only one or two layers of paint, some experts say you may be able to use a heat gun to get the paint off, which is easier on the tin and may allow some of the metallic finish to remain; this is sort of like using a hair dryer on steroids.