Friday, March 30, 2012

Make Crown Moulding With A Router

This simple type of moulding that can be made using a router.


Crown moulding is a trim placed along the top of walls for decoration. Most lumber supply stores have multiple types of premade moulding available for purchase. However, you can easily make your own simple crown moulding using a router. You can create your own moulding for the building or you can match an old piece of moulding that you can no longer purchase. Knowing use a router to make moulding is a valuable skill during renovations.


Instructions


1. Put on the safety goggles.


2. Mount the router in the router table per the instructions with the router table.


3. Choose the router bit that will create the desired profile for the moulding.








4. Insert and mount the router bit into the router per the instructions with the router.


5. Adjust the router bit up and down to get the right amount of the bit sticking above the table. Look down the table to see what portion is sticking up and will be cutting.








6. Move the backstop guide into place next to the router bit. This process will determine how far the bit cuts into the wood.


7. Place the strip of wood behind the router bit and against the table's backstop. Look down the backstop to see the exact profile that will be created by the router bit. If the profile is incorrect, adjust the router bit up and down and the backstop back and forth until the profile is correct.


8. Plug in the router.


9. Feed the strip of wood through the router per the instructions provided with the router and router table. Always keep your hands away from a spinning router bit.


10. Unplug the router.

Tags: router table, down backstop, instructions with, instructions with router, Look down, moulding that

Create A Modern Living Room

Contemporary pieces using sleek lines give this room a modern feel.


Are you tired of looking at the outdated furniture and colors in your old-fashioned living room? Do you want to update it to a more modern look? Then think in terms of clean lines and light. Modern interior design concepts include the use of sleek lines, contemporary materials and refined color palettes. By incorporating modern-style furniture, art and décor pieces, you can create a living space with a clean up-to-date look.


Instructions


1. Evaluate the size and shape of your living room. Determine how much space you have to work with.


2. Browse images of modern living rooms to get ideas for furniture and other décor. Web sites such as Designers' Portfolio from HGTV.com provide images and ideas for complete modern living room looks.


3. Consider materials, texture and color. The introduction of new materials in the 20th century revolutionized interior design, according to Interiordezine.com. Modern materials such as chrome, PVC, plastic and laminated and steam-bent lumber allow designers to create innovative, contemporary pieces.


4. Use lines and shapes to give your room a modern feel. Modern furniture often uses long, straight lines. For example, a rectangular sofa with little cushioning creates a clean look, according to RealSimple.com. Contrast long, lean lines with curves and abstract shapes for an ultra-modern look.


5. Incorporate original modern art pieces or reproductions of famous modern pieces to complete the room. Other modern wall décor can include lightweight two-dimensional tiles or mirrors, which reflect light and make a room appear larger and brighter, according to RealSimple.com.

Tags: living room, according RealSimple, interior design, modern feel, modern pieces, room modern, room modern feel

Modern Living Room Designs & Ideas With Pictures

Go with sleek lines for a modern living room.


Modern living room styles encompass many different schools of design, from clean and sleek lines to progressive futuristic furniture. When it comes to the living room, keep your design unified by choosing a particular school of modern design and using it as your basic road map. Stick to simplicity, utility and boldness for a modern living room, but don't be afraid to add your own spin to personalize your space.


Modern


Get bold with modern color choices.


Stark surfaces and clean lines define modern design. For modern style furniture, turn to streamlined upholstered sofas, leather lounge chairs and molded plastic or shaped plywood accent chairs. Steel lamps provide lighting while pop art paintings and prints brighten up the walls. Bold colors and color combinations characterize this style, so try accenting your living room with boldly-colored throw pillows, curtains or faux-fur rugs with simple styles and patterns. Geometric patterns lend themselves to modern living rooms; employ these patterns on curtains or even wallpaper. If you have control of your space, select a large open, airy space with large -- even floor-to-ceiling -- windows.


Ecodesign


Get eclectic and lend the environment a hand with ecodesign.








Ecodesign is a modern design style with an emphasis on sustainability, meaning that the furniture and other products are made with regard to limiting emissions, reducing waste and conserving natural resources. Ecodesign does not equate to all-natural, as plastics are often employed for their recyclable quality. When choosing furniture for an ecodesign living room, select durable items that will last for decades. Bamboo and rattan materials and natural textures work well for this style as do simple choices, such as repurposed oak and teak or other reclaimed wood. Choose furniture and decor that uses a minimum of necessary materials, and go with recyclable materials, such as nonlacquered wood and steel. For textiles, ecodesign often includes durable natural fibers, sustainably harvested wool and soy-based fabrics. Accent your space with live plants and get creative by repurposing nonfurniture items; try using an old trunk as a coffee table or a repurposed quilt as a throw.


Futurism


Organic shapes lend themselves to futurist living rooms.


Futurism is a progression of modernist design, making for an even more daring choice of living room style. Lightness, practicality and forward-thinking designs characterize futurism. For the living room, go with dynamic, multi-purpose furniture, such as couches with built-in tables and lighting fixtures or ottomans that double as benches. Multi-use modular furniture lends itself to the futurist style. Choose simple geometric shapes in your living room design, like simple blocks for coffee and end tables and cylindrical lamps or lights. Organically-shaped seating -- such as hanging or sphere-shaped chairs -- and utilitarian shelves help complete this style. As futurism penetrates all areas of art and design, accent your living room space with paintings and images from the futurist movement, such as abstract paintings or works of cubism.

Tags: living room, modern design, space with, this style, your living, your living room

Thursday, March 29, 2012

Decorating Ideas For A Small Master Bedroom With A High Slanted Ceiling

The odd shape of a master bedroom with a high, slanted ceiling offers an array of decorating possibilities. The slanted ceiling can be used as a canvas for decorative elements that will enhance whatever design theme you choose. The offset appearance created by the slanted ceiling allows for unconventional furniture placement and the freedom to decorate without the typical restraints of a square configuration.


Paint Color Choice








Paint choices are wide open for a master bedroom that has a high ceiling and a slant. Since the ceilings are high, you can select a darker color paint without running the risk of making the room feel confined. Since your ceiling has a slant, which brings part of the ceiling lower, you can also select a light color wall paint and still not make the room feel too big. It depends upon the way you use the wall space for decor. If you'll be hanging a lot of items, you may want a lighter color paint, but if your wall decor will be sparse, a darker color may work better.








Wall Decor


The wall that attaches to the slanted portion of your ceiling, depending upon how low the ceiling comes down, may not be ideal for decoration. The wall your furniture is against will contain little or no wall decor. Depending upon where your door is located, you may have two full walls for hanging wall decor. Choose a decor theme that matches your paint color and build a wall decor that features framed photographs, art work or a mirror. Consider using the slanted portion of the ceiling for hanging a special piece of art or something decorative that matches the theme.


Furniture Placement


Arrange furniture to balance the slant of the ceiling. Place your bed with its headboard against the highest wall in the room. Small corner tables work well on the side of the room where the ceiling is at its lowest point. Larger furniture pieces, such as dressers or tables, work better on the same side as the highest wall. Depending upon where your door is located (on the side of the room with the highest wall or on the side of the room where the ceiling is at its lowest point) you may want to avoid clutter by minimizing the placement of furniture.


Decorative Elements


Find room for a sculpture or decorative vases, an ornate bookcase or other items that will take up floor space and provide a pleasing aesthetic. A statue placed on a corner table is one idea. Corner metal sculptures can add a modern feel to the room.

Tags: highest wall, side room, slanted ceiling, ceiling lowest, ceiling lowest point

Wednesday, March 28, 2012

Make Coping Saw Corner Cuts

The purpose of making coping saw corner cuts is to enable molding to perfectly fit together in corners. The coping saw has a squared brace-holding thin blade for cutting sharp curves and angles. This lightweight wood saw has a handle behind the blade for one-handed maneuverability. The skill of making a coping cut is acquired with practice. The result is baseboards, side molding and crown molding that appears to be made of one piece.








Instructions


1. Set one piece of trim, baseboard or molding into the corner with the flat edge meeting the wall. It is not necessary for the board to be perfectly flush against the wall since the corner will get covered. Hammer finish nails through the trim and into the wall with a fitting nail set.


2. Measure a piece to meet against the piece in the corner. Make a 45 degree crosscut with a chop saw or miter saw, leaving the finished side longest.


3. Cut along the exposed wood profile of the molding design and follow the shape precisely. The thin top curves should be left to protrude farther than the wider squared-off base.


4. Set the cope cut in place to meet the intersecting corner piece to check the fit. Make slight adjustments using sand paper or a wood file without shortening the board.


5. Nail the cope cut piece to the wall once the fit is perfect. Use putty to fill any slight gaps. Paint will unify all colors and textures.

Tags: making coping

Specifications For Lumapro Lighting

LumaPro, a brand of lighting offered by W.W. Grainger, Inc., has both consumer and commercial lighting solutions, including desk, task and jobsite lighting solutions. You can purchase LumaPro lights directly from Grainger or from third-party resellers. Always figure out your lighting needs before purchasing your lamps and light fixtures.


Track/Recessed


Track and recessed lighting are both types of overhead light. Track lighting has individual lamps on a track and recessed lighting lamps sit depressed in a ceiling or wall. LumaPro offers both types of lighting. For example, the LumaPro fixture track model 5TP74 features a single lamp on a track with a 50 watt, 12-volt bulb. The light can move up to 350 degrees horizontally and up to 90 degrees vertically. It comes in white and its dimensions are 3 inches long by 2 1/4 inches in diameter.


Jobsite


Jobsite lights include standard jobsite lighting and dock lighting. The dock lighting includes lights attached to adjustable arms like the model 5AY53 dock light and hanging lights like the model 5NKT1 rotary hook, trouble light guard. The jobsite lighting models either sit on stands like the model 4VM76 light stand 1600-watt, or on strings like the model 6YF74 light string 150-watt.


Task/Desk


Task and desk light either sit on your workspace or attach to it. For example, the LumaPro mini work Light, 25-watt model 4PD36 has an adjustable goose neck, and it screws into your work space via a "L" bracket. The neck can reach up to 18 inches and it is available in either chrome or black.


Motion


Motion-activated lights are outdoor lights that come on when somebody passes near your home or office. For example, the model 2LBL4 motion light comes with two lamps, and it has a 240 degree viewing angle. It has a maximum load capacity of 200 watts and it uses 120 volts of power. It also uses a quartz halogen light bulb and it comes with a bronze finish.








Portable


Portable lights are any lights that you can move from place to place. These lights usually have either hooks or handles for easier transport. For example, the incandescent hand lamp model 2W243 comes with a hook and a 25-foot cord. It has a metal housing and it is a 100-watt, 125-volt, general purpose lamp.


Magnifier


Magnifier lights feature a lighting magnifying lens. This helps you work with small objects, including woodworking or computer projects. These lights attach to your work station, and they have an adjustable neck. For example, magnifier lamp, 22-watt model 5MM52 clamps to your desk. It is available in black, and it has a 6-foot cord. It features a 4.75 inch lens diameter and the entire lamp is 6 1/2 inches long.

Tags: like model, comes with, jobsite lighting, both types, dock lighting, example LumaPro, inches long

Install Tin Ceiling Tiles







Install Tin Ceiling Tiles


Tin ceiling tiles can provide an authentic Victorian look to both classic, and traditional decor. They are also a solution to camouflage severely damaged ceilings. The downside is that the installation is quite difficult. Following is just some very basic information about doing it yourself, along with some alternatives.


Instructions


Tin Ceiling Must-Have Facts and Prep


1. Know that tin ceiling tiles come in several sizes, for example, 3 x 6 12-inch, 24-inch, and other panels sizes but these are fairly standard. A 24 x 24-inch panel will cover 4 square feet. There are three versions for true tin tiles--snaplock, drop-in and nail up.


2. Understand that the original tin ceiling tiles are created from .010 gauge tin-plated steel or aluminum alloy. The tin will rust, and the aluminum resists corrosion. Whatever the makeup, the metal edges on them are extremely sharp and you will be subject to many cuts if you don't wear gloves or handle correctly. For that reason, vinyl gloves are not recommended.


3. Keep in mind that primed tin panels can be painted first, with two coats. For intricate designs one color is suggested. For the simpler tiles, they can be antiqued to achieve a patina, just as you would with any other antiquing project--wiping a darker glaze over the paint to accentuate the cracks, crevices and details. Lighter colors are suggested as the tiles are intricately embossed and anything too dark will detract from the design patterns. There are also pre-finished tiles (much more expensive) that simulate copper, chrome, brass, steel and white.


4. Know that traditionally, tin ceilings are installed onto plywood substrate. You will need to erect scaffolding by using sawhorses and heavy planking. You will need to be able to work at a higher level.








Installation


5. Locate the center of the room. Using a chalk line, if you divide the ceiling into a half, then quarters, you can begin in the middle. (Look for 90-degree angles.) It is highly suggested you work from the center of the room out.


6. Keep in mind that the cornice pieces will be installed first. Doing it this way ensures the flange opening will be nailed to the plywood and the edge of the cornice is attached to the wall with strapping supports or the manufacturer-supplied aluminum strips. One caveat, there are also directions that suggest you apply molding after ceiling installation (check with your manufacturer).


7. If you lay out the ceiling pattern on the floor first, you will have an idea of the pattern. Also there are nibs (also called nipples or buttons) which you will see help to fit panels together. The lap panel design should move in the same direction, so the seam faces the back. The cut sheet should be towards the wall where it is hidden by cornice or wood molding.


8. Attach the sheet using nails. An expert tip is to angle the nail for more strength in hold. Seams can be sealed by tapping with the head of a wide angled chisel.


9. Your metal shears will be used to cut around holes for light fixtures.

Tags: ceiling tiles, center room, Install Ceiling, Install Ceiling Tiles, Keep mind

Tuesday, March 27, 2012

Design A Sunken Living Room

Sunken living rooms, once popular in the 1960s, are experiencing a resurgence. Of course, designing a sunken living room is best done on a home that hasn't been built, as it will have an impact on the shape of the foundation. Adding a sunken living room to a finished house will require foundation work, but can still be done. In designing your sunken living room, you have to consider the depth and dimensions of the desired space. For that, keep in mind the size of your living room furniture.








Instructions


1. Set the perimeter for your living room. Typically, a sunken living room is more than just the "pit" area but also includes the surrounding, raised area that is at the usual floor height. Decide how much of the living room will be sunken, setting the length and width of your space. At a minimum, you'll need enough space for your sofa and table. Chairs and additional end tables may be intended for the sunken space or can be placed on the surrounding "ledge."


2. Pick the number of steps you want to descend into the pit. In other words, how deep do you want the sunken room? Generally, a sunken living room has only one or two steps downward. For rooms with only one step, the entire edge on all sides is accessible with a simple step down. For sunken rooms with two steps, decide if you want the steps to completely surround the sunken pit or if you'll designate two sides as entrance and exit sides. Typically, you'd place the steps along the shorter sides, leaving the longer sides for where the couch will stretch out.


3. Cover the flooring. Most commonly, sunken living rooms are thought of with carpet covering the pit and running up the sides. However, with the popularity of using tiles in living spaces, you can instead cover the flooring and sides of the pit with tile. Or use tile around the raised portion and down the sides but have carpet at the bottom of the sunken pit. Mix and match as you prefer.


4. Decorate your sunken living room as you would any living room. Typically, the pit area is designated as a conversational area and usually contains the largest sitting arrangement. Additional seating and other furnishings can encircle the sunken area on the raised portions of flooring. Enjoy your sunken living room.

Tags: living room, sunken living, sunken living room, your sunken living, sunken living room

What Causes Crown Molding To Separate From Walls







Changes in temperature can cause decorative molding to separate from the wall.


Crown molding ornamentation dates back to the architecture of the Renaissance. It provides a decorative touch to the area where walls and ceilings meet. Molding can last a long time and provides value to a home but may begin to separate from the wall after installation for a variety of reasons.


Types of Molding








Most crown molding is pre-shaped and sometimes pre-painted. It is generally made from material such as solid wood, plaster, ultralight medium-density fiberboard (MDF) made from resins and sawdust, polyurethane or PVC .


Separation from Temperature Changes


Humidity and extreme changes in temperature can lead to molding beginning to detach from walls or the ceiling. Gaps and cracks develop, making the crown molding separate from the wall. Nails and adhesive caulk are no match for temperature-related separation and moisture. The root cause of the problem stems from the contraction or warping of ceiling trusses, the beams that make up structural support of the roof of a house. When the trusses contract, the ceiling lifts and pulls up the crown molding creating separation, gaps or cracks.


Separation from Termites and Rot


While wood crown molding can be a stunning and natural way to add beauty to your house, it is also susceptible to termites and bugs including certain types of beetles. The pests infest the wood and begin destruction at the larval stage and can eat right through the adhesive and caulk of the molding. If your house has water damage from floodwaters or leaks, the wood beams in your house may begin to rot or change position which can also affect crown molding.


Repair


For wood crown moldings, you can use canned wood filler to fill in small gaps. If the damage is from pests, remove the infested material and replace it with treated wood. You can consult a professional and have the wood treated with pesticide.


Prevention


If you do not want to worry about insects, use plaster, MDF, PVC or polyurethane molding. PVC is most resistant to warping and dents but is not as decorative and has a slick surface that is not amenable to painting. It is generally used in bathrooms and exterior areas. Aesthetically, these materials may not give you the same effect as wood but you will not have to worry about infestations. Using two-part molding is another way to minimize separation due to temperature and humidity. With this method, the base of the molding is attached to the wall and the upper region is attached to the ceiling. This will help prevent the bottom part of the molding from separating from the wall even if the ceiling moves.

Tags: from wall, crown molding, separate from, separate from wall, your house

Monday, March 26, 2012

Remove Old Tin Ceiling

Before drywall was invented, one of the most common building materials for finishing ceilings was ornamental rolled tin. Tin ceilings have been experiencing a revival as manufacturers are producing both stamped tin tiles and Styrofoam tiles that emulate actual tin ceiling tiles. Not everyone is fond of tin ceilings, however, and some may wish to remove them. Taking down an old tin ceiling isn't difficult, but it is messy. Preparing the work site in advance will help you to successfully start and finish the job in a timely fashion.


Instructions


1. Clear everything from the room and, if the floor is carpeted or has hardwood floors, lay down tarps to protect it. Rolled tin ceiling is unwieldy and has sharp edges. It can cut and gouge surfaces.


2. Turn off the electricity, and remove any ceiling light fixtures.


3. Set up a ladder next to the wall in the corner of the room. Climb the ladder with a crowbar, and work it under the tin cornice--the ornamental, dimensional tin that camouflages the seam between the tin ceiling and the wall. Start popping the cornice away from the wall and ceiling. Systematically work the perimeter of the room until you have taken down all of the tin cornice.


4. Examine the seams of the rolled tin ceiling where one roll butts up against the next. Rolled tin ceiling was usually attached to 1x2-inch strips of wood pounded to the ceiling. Set up the ladder at one end of the room, and work the crowbar behind the end of one strip of tin to pop it away from the 1x2-inch strips on either side of the roll.








5. Continue to pop the tin loose. When enough is hanging far enough down from the ceiling, climb down from the ladder and try to pull down the rest of the roll by hand. If the nails won't give way, move the ladder, climb back up and continue popping the tin free with the crowbar.


6. Roll up each length of tin, and bind it with strapping tape. Carry the rolls of tin outside, and haul them away.,

Tags: 1x2-inch strips, away from, down from, with crowbar

Install Interior Dropped Ceilings

A dropped or suspended ceiling is essentially a false ceiling, a grid of lightweight panels set in a metal framework suspended on wires from the joists or rafters of the surface above. Acoustic tiles add a finished touch to the space and reduce noise. A dropped ceiling reduces the height of a room, thereby cutting down on energy bills, and it conceals exposed plumbing, wiring or ductwork. There are many styles and colors of grids and tiles to choose from, allowing you to customize your ceiling to complement your interior decor and the style of your home.


Instructions


1. Measure the area of the room, in feet, at the point where you want the drop ceiling to hang using a measuring tape. This is usually 4 to 6 inches from the ceiling joists to allow you to easily install the tiles into the grid. Double-check the measurements and then record them to ensure they are accurate.








2. Mark the wall at the desired height, and then draw a horizontal line across three walls using a 4-foot level. Alternatively, snap a chalk line along each wall. These lines serve as the perimeter lines that ensure the drop ceiling is level.


3. Hammer the pieces of trim to the wall using the nails provided with the kit. These L-shaped brackets hold the ceiling tiles. Locate wall studs using a stud finder beforehand, so the upper edge of the L-shaped bracket falls on the perimeter line. Use tin snips to cut the trim pieces to size, if required.


4. Cut the main runners or tees provided with the grid to size so they rest on the trim pieces. These tees resemble an inverted T. The vertical sides of these tees have holes that secure the suspension wire. Install these tees on the walls, spacing them 24 inches apart.


5. Thread bolts above the main tees into the primary ceiling. Space these eyebolts every 1 to 2 feet.


6. Knot a length of metal wire into the bolt, and tie its other end to the hole in the main tee. This practice keeps the weight of the suspended ceiling off the trim pieces and keeps the main tees suspended.


7. Insert a cross tee every 1 to 2 feet in between the main tees. These tees have clips on their ends that snap into the main tee holes.


8. Thread bolts above the cross tees into the main ceiling. Tie wire to the eyebolts above the cross tee and knot their other ends into the cross tee holes.


9. Slip a tile between the original ceiling and the frame, then lower it onto the frame so it fits into the tee clips.

Tags: main tees, trim pieces, above cross, bolts above, drop ceiling, every feet

Cope A Mitered Joint For Crown Molding

The installation of crown molding can be facilitated through the use of coped miter cuts at all inside corners. The effective use of coped miters allows the home carpenter to compensate for out of square walls and ceilings that are common place in many houses as the the coped miter is an effective means of adjusting the corner cut to fit the existing profile of the previously installed intersecting piece of molding. Coped miters eliminate caps and improperly fit corner joints.


Instructions


1. Cut an inside miter using the miter saw.


2. Position molding in the vice with the cut face up and use rasp to smooth any rough surfaces.


3. Check the miter cut to ensure that the cut face reveals the profile of the molding. Then using a dark leaded carpenter pencil darken the profile of the molding by marking the profile with a heavy pencil line.


4. Using the coping saw begin cutting on the back side of the molding by cutting parallel to and 1/16 inch from the previously drawn profile line. During this cut the coping saw blade must be angled at approximately 45 degrees to the back face of the molding. This ensures that most the molding is removed near the face of the molding and gradually less molding is remove as the cut progresses to the back side of the molding.








5. Continue cutting within 1/16 inch of the profile line turning the coping saw as necessary to negotiate changes in the angle of the profile line.


Once the angle changes become too sharp to negotiate with the coping saw remove the saw and make vertical cut from the back of the molding towards the face. Cut until the previously cut profile line is intersected. This will allow removal of the previously cut wood from the back side of the molding.


6. Begin a mew cut at the point at which the prior vertical cut ended. Continue to cut within 1/16 inch of the previously drawn profile line. Should the profile angles become too sharp to negotiate, repeat Steps 5 and 6.


7. Complete cutting the profile of the miter face and then use combination rasp to to smooth rough edges and further delineate the molding profile. Use the round face of the rasp to smooth rounded profiles and the flat face to sharpen angled profiles in the molding .


8. Test fit the coped miter by positioning it in place against the previously nailed molding on the intersecting wall.


9. Use carpenter pencil to mark any point at which additional molding must be removed to close gaps existing between the two joined corner pieces. Use the rasp to cut away additional material on the back side of the molding profile until the gap is closed.

Tags: profile line, back side, back side molding, side molding, coped miter, rasp smooth, become sharp

Friday, March 23, 2012

What To Do With The Wall Above The Shower Surround

The walls above shower surrounds aren't always the same material.


Not all shower surrounds are designed to run all the way up to the ceiling, which means in some cases you are left with an expanse above where the shower surround stops. The average termination point is around 7 feet above the floor of the bathroom, and if you have 9-foot high ceilings, you have a 2-foot reveal. You can finish this off in any number of ways depending on personal preference.


Tile Pattern


One of the most common types of materials used in bathrooms, especially in showers, is tile, both ceramic and natural stone. Similar to pre-cast shower surrounds, tile walls normally terminate around 7 feet off the floor, or wherever full tile ends above the shower head. You can continue the pattern up to the ceiling, or in the case of pre-cast surrounds, you can simply install tile on top of the surround and finish up to the ceiling.


Painted Drywall


If you are looking for the quickest and easiest option to finish the wall above the shower surround, painting the existing drywall is the best option. All you need is a quick coat of paint in whatever color you think is best for the overall design of your bathroom, and you are good to go. A water-resistant paint is best in this area, as the constant presence of moisture is a given.


Stucco








Another popular option for finishing the wall above the shower surround is to include stucco or some type of drywall mud pattern. The design styles you can choose from are widely varied, ranging from knife-cut stucco patterns to drop-down textures and simple mud-troweled textures. You can also add colored pigments to the stucco or drywall mud, allowing you to customize the stucco according to your design specifications.


Wallpaper


Although it is not the most popular option in bathrooms, adding wallpaper to cover the small expanse above the shower surround is another way to finish the wall. Wallpaper comes in a variety of patterns, colors and styles, which means you have a wide range of selections from which to choose. It is also easy to install, similar to paint, which means no specialty tools or construction knowledge is required, making it a quick and easy option in comparison to others.

Tags: above shower, shower surround, shower surrounds, which means, above shower surround

Paint A Popcorn Type Ceiling

Painting a textured popcorn ceiling takes a little more time and effort than painting a nontextured ceiling. The general rule of thumb when painting a ceiling is to cut in the edges first with the brush and then paint the ceiling with a roller. But on a popcorn ceiling, the edges are cut in after the ceiling has been painted. Painting a textured ceiling with a brush is difficult, so do as much as possible with the roller first and do as little as possible with the brush. The alternative to applying the paint with a roller is the use a sprayer, which is much quicker. However, the roller will put a thicker coat of paint on the ceiling that better protects the ceiling from stains and mildew.


Instructions


1. Remove or cover the furniture. The best strategy is to remove all the furniture to an adjacent room. It is much easier and faster to paint the ceiling in an empty room. Cover the floor with tarps.


2. Dust the ceiling. Dust prevents paint from securely adhering to the surface. Use a duster or a clean broom to remove the dust.


3. Prime the ceiling with a primer that is not water based. Fill a paint tray with primer. Place the roller on an extension pole. Dip the roller in the primer and roll it in the tray to smooth the paint out evenly on the roller. Start in one corner of the ceiling and slowly work your way across the ceiling with the roller. Leave a 1/2-inch space between the ceiling and the wall. Keep the roller saturated with primer. Check for heavy spots and missed spots. Cut the edges in with a brush once the ceiling has been rolled.


4. Allow the primed coat to dry thoroughly. It helps to turn on a couple of fans and aim them at the ceiling. Inspect the walls for any drips and clean them with paint thinner and a rag.


5. Paint the ceiling. Pour the paint into a clean paint tray. Place a clean roller on the extension pole. Repeat the process used for priming the ceiling. Overlap the paint lines and keep a wet edge. Inspect the ceiling as you go, checking for missed and heavy spots. Once the ceiling has been rolled, cut in the edges with a brush. Allow time to dry.


6. Apply a second coat.

Tags: with brush, ceiling with, with roller, ceiling been, paint ceiling, with primer, been rolled

Thursday, March 22, 2012

Paint A Room

Paint a Room


Painting your walls can transform the look and feel of your home. You can make a small room look substantially bigger by using light colors or you can create a mood based on the paint color of your choice. To paint a room, start with the ceiling and then paint the walls. Finish with the trim.


Instructions


1. Prepare the walls and ceiling (see 'ePrepare a Room for Painting'). Use a stain-blocking primer to cover any dark mark you can't remove (stains, knots, ink, dark paint); otherwise, that area will bleed through. Never paint on wallpaper (see 'eRemove Wallpaper').


2. Make sure there is adequate ventilation in the room.


3. Plan on three coats: one coat of primer and two coats of finish. Always use primer on patched and unpainted surfaces; raw surfaces suck up paint like a sponge - or reject it.


4. Paint into all the corners with a 2-inch or 3-inch paintbrush. Use the same brush to outline where the ceiling meets the wall (and vice versa), around doors and windows, above the baseboard and around any other trim or detailing - and wherever a paint roller won't fit.


5. Pour some paint into the roller pan and roll away on the ceiling and then the walls. Pour only a small amount of paint in your roller pan - this will keep the paint from drying out before you can use it.








6. Try to start rolling before the brushed-on paint has had time to dry, so that the rolled-on paint will blend in rather than become a second coat. Rolling out a W, about 3 feet wide, and then filling it in, assures an even application of paint. Get as close into the corners as you can without making a messy paint line.


7. Paint from dry areas into wet. This will help reduce any paint ridges. Feather (thin out) all edges as you go, whether using a brush or a roller; this will also help reduce ridges.








8. Cover cans or buckets when you're not using them. Keep a rag and brush handy to deal with drips, spills and the general messiness of the process. If a drip becomes too dry to spread out, let it dry. Come back later, sand it and paint over it.

Tags: ceiling then, help reduce, into corners, Paint Room, roller this

Paint A Popcorn Ceiling To Ensure It Is Stainresistant

You're going to need to repaint.








Popcorn ceilings, otherwise known as acoustic ceilings, are found throughout homes in the United States. They have a bumpy appearance that resembles popcorn and they were very popular with builders in the 1970s and 1980s. Because of their rough texture, they are not as easy to paint as smooth ceilings. Thus many popcorn ceilings become dingy and stained over time. If you go through the trouble of painting your popcorn ceiling, make sure that you use a stain resistant paint so that the paint job looks good for as long as possible.


Instructions


1. Touch the existing stains on your ceiling and confirm that they are dry. If your ceiling has water stains from an active leak, painting alone won't fix your problem.


2. Remove all the furniture from the room. Protect the floor by spreading out a drop cloth and protect the walls by masking them with tape and paper. There will be a lot of splatter when you paint your textured ceiling.


3. Paint the ceiling with a stain-blocking white primer. You can pick up stain-blocking primers at any home improvement or paint store. Pour approximately six cups of primer into a paint tray. Dip your roller in the paint to soak it up and roll the roller back and forth a few times on the textured part of the tray until it's no longer dripping. Roll the paint-soaked roller across your ceiling, repeating this process until your entire ceiling is coated with primer. Allow the primer to dry for as long as the packaging directs.


4. Paint the popcorn ceiling with stain-resistant paint. Stain-resistant paint is also available at any hardware or paint shop. It is a good choice for your popcorn ceiling because it is especially easy to wipe down and clean. Paint the ceiling the same way you applied the primer. Allow the paint to dry as long as the packaging directs.


5. Spray the popcorn ceiling with a coat of KILZ UpShot. KILZ UpShot is a stain blocker manufactured specifically for use on popcorn and textured ceilings. You can buy it at any home improvement or paint store, or even online. KILZ comes in a special can that sprays directly upwards so it's very easy to apply to your ceiling. Allow the stain blocker to dry for as long as directed on the package and move your furniture back into the room.

Tags: your ceiling, ceiling with, popcorn ceiling, home improvement, home improvement paint

Wednesday, March 21, 2012

Decide On Which Ceiling Beams

Structural ceiling beams are used to hold up and support a structure. Decorative or false ceiling beams are used to suggest a supportive structure, hide exposed wiring, ducts or pipes, or distract from poorly installed ceilings. Because they are decorative, the beams can be designed in any width, shape or material - wood is a lightweight and easy-to-find choice for premade beams. The process of selecting the right decorative beam can be streamlined by considering one of these parameters: the style of the home, the interior design of the space or the ceiling height of the room.








Instructions


1. Choose a ceiling beam according to the style of the home. Rustic style homes look great with hand-planed or rough sawn wood beams. A recessed panel or decorative edge wood beam supports a traditional home - add trim to either side of the beam to match interior trim. Mid-century or industrial styled homes often have exposed steel ceiling beams already in place. If yours does not, add a decorative one or consider exposing one that may be hidden in the ceiling.


2. Select a beam according to the interior design. Rooms designed to reflect a cottage, cabin or outdoor feel benefit from faux-finished ceiling beams. Faux barn or weathered beams can be purchased already painted or stained. Eclectic interiors allow a home owner to choose from a broader selection of beams because the interior does not dictate a particular style. Consider using a weathered, painted or unpainted beam in an eclectic interior.


3. Select a ceiling beam according to the ceiling height. Rooms with a seven to eight foot ceiling height will need a smaller beam thickness to prevent the room from appearing cave-like. Ceiling beams can be purchased in varying heights, including a style referred to as "plank." Plank style beams are typically one inch or less in thickness. A plank beam is appropriate in a low-ceiling room and can be specified in a variety of finishes, including rustic, stained or painted.


Taller ceiling heights can handle taller, thicker ceiling beams. Although there are no true rules to the thickness the beam must be, viewing sample beams in the room can help you make a decision. Place the furniture in the room when viewing the sample beams. Furniture height and shape can affect your final decision. Choose varying heights and widths of beams to view to get a complete picture of the results.

Tags: beam according, ceiling beams, ceiling height, beams purchased, beams used

Mount Ceiling Lighting Flush In A Bathroom

Mounting a new ceiling light can dramatically improve the look of a room with relatively little work or expense. Modern ceiling lights come with mounting brackets that are designed to fit onto any electrical box; the light is then affixed to the bracket. Flush-mounted lights sit directly against the ceiling rather than hanging down, which is the preferred configuration in bathrooms. Make sure the fixture you get is a little wider than the old one, so it will completely cover the previously covered ceiling area, avoiding the need to retouch paint.


Instructions


1. Cut electricity power to the old fixture at the house circuit box.








2. Remove the screws that hold the old light to the ceiling. Pull it down and disconnect the wires above it so you can pull the light away completely. You should be left with an exposed ceiling box and three hanging wire ends: one black, one white and one bare copper ground wire.








3. Set the installation bracket from your light kit to the electrical box. Attach it with the provided screws.


4. Wrap the end of the bare copper ground wire onto the green ground screw on the mounting bracket and tighten the screw.


5. Hold the new fixture near the electrical box. Connect the wires from the new fixture to the wires from the electrical box, black to black and white to white, twisting wire caps over each connection.


6. Push the wires and wire caps into the electrical box. Press the fixture against the bracket so that it's flush with the ceiling and covering the entire electrical box. Attach the light fixture to the bracket, using the provided screws.


7. Turn on the electricity at the circuit box.

Tags: bare copper, bare copper ground, black white, copper ground, copper ground wire

Tuesday, March 20, 2012

Components Of Interior Floor Lamps

Interior floor lamps require a variety of components.


Although their designs, shapes, colors and materials vary greatly, interior floor lamps share a number of components. Decorative floor lamps provide functionality because people can move them, adjust them to the appropriate height and select an aesthetically appealing design. Whether you're taking apart a pole lamp, assembling a lamp from a few vintage pieces you have salvaged or drawing one as an illustration, recognize that a lamp becomes the sum of its parts. Master lamp craftsman Z. G. Crawford, with over forty years in the lamp making business, takes numerous components into consideration when he creates an interior floor lamp.


Vertical Pole


Interior floor lamps usually have some type of vertical pole or mast that runs down the center and attaches to a base that sits on the floor. Types of fabrication materials of this pole include wrought iron, wood, glass and metal; the chosen material is suspended on a sturdy metal inner pole.


Base


A floor lamp's base enables it to stand up vertically. It needs to be heavy enough so that it will not tip. A base also requires some symmetrical placement of casters so that the lamp rests securely on the floor without rocking.








Arm and Oil Pot


The arm extends from the lamp's upper mast or pole and usually adjusts so that a user can position the light head just over his head, whether he is sitting down or standing. The oil pot derives its name from its history as an oil container that burned real oil. Today's oil pots are decorative and consist of a rounded brass or glass piece that holds the lamp's switch, socket and harp holders.


Weight


Usually a rounded ball that screws onto the base, the weight helps a lighter lamp, such as a wrought iron pole lamp, stand up. The weight balances the lamp and prevents it from toppling over.


Cap


A metal or brass cap fits over the oil pot and covers wires extending from the socket and down the lamp.


Socket and Switch


The socket of a lamp is part of the light head. It provides a holding place for the lamp's bulb to screw into. It also connects to the switch and electrical cord, and allows electrical current to flow from its source to the light bulb.


Finial


Finials are decorative pieces that screw onto the pipe and hold the harp and lamp shade. When tightened, a finial keeps the lamp shade on straight. Finials come in a myriad of styles and colors. Designers incorporate porcelain, ceramics, glass, brass and other metals in crafting finials.


Neck


Also called a "riser," a neck is a hollow, decorative piece of metal that helps raise a lamp's finial higher. Necks come in various lengths.


Harp








The harp, usually brass or metal, slips into two grooves alongside the socket and holds the shade in place via the metal wires inside the shade. Harps come in various sizes so that the lamp and shade appeal aesthetically to the eye.


Shade


The crowning touch to any lamp, shades come in all sizes, shapes and styles. Some of the finest ones are silk or handmade paper. Fabric, leathers and synthetic materials find their way as lamp shades, as do glass and porcelains.

Tags: floor lamps, lamp shade, that lamp, come various, floor lamp, interior floor, lamp shades

Mobile Home Bathroom Work







How Does a Mobile Home Bathroom Work?


Not every mobile home has on-board plumbing systems. However, those that do operate in a very similar manner to bathrooms in regular, non-mobile homes. The only difference is that the two key ingredients to having a successful plumbing system--the hot water heater and the septic tank--are attached to the home and travel with the user wherever the vehicle may go.


Hot Water Heater


The hot water heater in a mobile home operates in an almost identical fashion to one you would find in a regular home. A series of pipes, typically made from long lasting PVC, connect the sink, shower (if applicable), and toilet water tank to the water heater. The heater itself is typically found somewhere near the rear of the vehicle. In very large models, it may be tucked away under the floor. These provide the bathroom with running water, both hot and cold. As they are not connected to any outside sewer system, however, they will have to be refilled quite often from a clean water source.


A 30 gallon gas water heater typically runs somewhere in the neighborhood of five hundred dollars.


Septic Tank


Water from the sink, shower and toilet of a mobile home will empty out into an attached septic tank just as it would if they were in a regular home. The septic tank is connected to these devices through a series of pipes. The septic tank is found near wherever the hot water heater happens to be.








One important thing to remember is that the septic tank is going to have to be manually emptied. The frequency depends on its size, but you should check it often to be on the safe side. Mobile home parks (also typically referred to as trailer parks) will have specific areas these septic tanks can be emptied. Many camp grounds and other places one might park a mobile home for an extended period of time will also have very specific areas and rules regarding the emptying of a septic tank, so as not to contaminate any clean water source.

Tags: septic tank, water heater, Bathroom Work, clean water, clean water source, Home Bathroom

Monday, March 19, 2012

Connect Lights To A Ceiling Fan

Install a light kit onto your ceiling fan.


Practically every ceiling fan on the market today has a light or has the ability to have one installed. Whether you purchase the ceiling fan with a light kit or bought a light kit separately, the installation is the same to connect the lights to the ceiling fan. Adding lights to an existing ceiling fan can enhance the beauty of the fan as well as increase the light in your room. Make sure you choose a light that matches the finish of your existing ceiling fan.


Instructions


1. Turn off the circuit that supplies electricity to the ceiling fan by turning off the breaker inside the main electrical panel.


2. Remove the switch housing cap from the switch housing by removing the screws that attach it to the housing. The switch housing is located at the bottom of the ceiling fan below the fan blades.








3. Push out the knockout plug located in the center of the cap. Thread the wires and the nipple from the ceiling fan light through the hole in the cap. Thread the wires through the locknut and screw it onto the nipple. This secures the ceiling fan light to the cap.


4. Find the two wires inside the switch housing that connect the ceiling fan light to the fan. One wire is white and the other is labeled as the light kit wire.


5. Connect the white wire from the ceiling fan light to the white wire from the switch housing by twisting an orange wire connector onto the two wires. Repeat this connection for the black wire from the ceiling fan light and the light kit wire from the switch housing. Replace the cap onto the switch housing with the screws you removed in Step 2.


6. Take the screws from the ceiling fan canopy to release it from the hanging bracket at the ceiling. Locate the two black wires that are connected together with an orange wire connector and remove the connector. Locate the light kit wire from the ceiling fan motor and connect it with the two black wires using a red wire connector.


7. Replace the ceiling fan canopy onto the hanging bracket and turn the breaker that powers the ceiling fan on inside the main electrical panel.

Tags: switch housing, ceiling light, from ceiling, wire from, light wire, from ceiling light

Get Rid Of Rats In The Ceiling

Rats can get into your ceiling from your roof through any opening as small as a quarter inch. If a rat is in your ceiling, it will most likely try to make its way into your home to find food, which is why it's extremely important to get rid of any rats once you notice they are in your ceiling or attic. Also, rats can cause damage to your ceiling by chewing through material and they can attract more unwanted animals, such as raccoons.


Instructions


1. Find out how the rats have gotten into your ceiling or attic. Use a ladder to get to your roof to find any possible openings. Patch any small holes on your roof or use steel wool or foam to cover the area until you get rid of the rats.








2. Seal off any other areas where the rats could get into your house. For example, stuff steel wool near areas around pipes and drainage holes. Also, make sure all of your trash is secured in trash bags and that your food is completely closed in your kitchen cabinets.








3. Place two or three rat traps in your attic or area of your ceiling if you can get to it. Place the traps along the edges of your attic entrance, and use peanut butter as bait. Wait at least two or three days to see if the traps worked.


4. Use different rat traps, such as the T-Rex rat trap and Rat Zapper, if the problem persists. These traps contain glue and poison within the trap to capture and kill the rats. Check the traps each day after placing them in your ceiling to see if the rats were caught, and then dispose of any that were snagged.


5. Cut out a small portion of the drywall in your ceiling, using a bladed tool if necessary, to remove any dead rats or to place traps. You will have to patch the area once the rats are removed, but it's important not to leave any dead rats in your ceiling, as they will attract more unwanted pests and spread disease.

Tags: your ceiling, into your, your roof, attract more, attract more unwanted, ceiling attic

Friday, March 16, 2012

Paint A Room With A Vaulted Ceiling

Painting a room with a vaulted ceiling is quite easy.


Painting a room with a vaulted ceiling can seem like an insurmountable task, but with a little guidance, it becomes quite easy. While most people prefer to leave their ceiling white, sometimes homeowners prefer to paint the ceiling a shade or two lighter or darker than the walls themselves. Here's paint a room with a vaulted ceiling:


Instructions


1. First, prep the room for painting. Remove all furniture and clean the room thoroughly. Be sure to remove all cobwebs and dust from the floors, walls, windows and vaulted ceiling.


2. Cover the floor or carpet with large drop cloths. You can buy these at any home improvement or paint store.


3. Figure out if you can reach the vaulted ceiling and walls with a ladder. If you find that your ladder does not reach the area that needs to be painted, rent scaffolding and set it up in the room.


4. Assemble your brushes, rollers and paint all in one location. Open the paint and stir as necessary. Pour the paint into the paint tray(s).


5. Use the ladder to paint the edges and corners with a 3 inch wide brush. Feel free to use painters tape for straight edges and protect the molding if desired. If you plan to paint the vaulted ceiling, paint it first. You don't want the ceiling paint to drip on the walls after you've already painted them.


6. Paint the room with the roller brushes, using the extension as necessary. Start at one end of the room and work your way across to the other side. Make sure you apply the paint smoothly, without leaving drips or bubbles.


7. Decide if you need two coats (or more). Light colors may only need one coat if it is being applied over a light color. Darker colors usually require two or more coats. Most homeowners will apply two coats to ensure they have even paint coverage.

Tags: room with vaulted, vaulted ceiling, vaulted ceiling, with vaulted, ceiling paint, Painting room

Refinish A Copper & Tin Ceiling

Copper and tin ceilings were commonplace in homes dating to the early 1800s and early 1900s. The copper on the tin ceilings was simply an overlay or plating to create a shiny copper appearance on the tin metal. A tin ceiling can be refinished to its original luster with replacement ceiling tiles or painted for a refreshing appearance to the original tile.


Instructions








1. Tape plastic sheeting up around the doorway of the room. Lay protective sheeting over the floor and tape around the baseboards to protect the floor.


2. Apply a paint remover paste to the tin ceiling, following the label directions. Allow the remover to stand. Carefully scrape away the old paint with a plastic putty knife. Discard the paint into a plastic bucket for disposal.


3. Wash the tin ceiling with a mixture of 1 tablespoon dish detergent and 1 gallon water. Allow the tin tiles to dry for 24 hours.


4. Apply an oil-based or metallic spray paint to the surface of the tile. Spray in even, sweeping motions until the entire tile surface is covered.


5. Remove the plastic sheeting and discard.

Tags: plastic sheeting

Decorate An Elongated Bathroom

Apartments, townhomes and old homes are notorious for long, narrow bathrooms. Decorating schemes that work well in the wide, spacious bathrooms of newly designed homes will only serve to make a small, narrow space appear even smaller and narrower. Depending on your time, budget and your home improvement skills, you can take several steps to make your bathroom appear larger and more proportionate. If your budget doesn't allow you to make all the changes at once, begin with the things you can afford and work your way through the list until you've transformed your bathroom.


Instructions


1. Choose two complementing colors for painting the walls. The colors should both be light, but one should be slightly darker than the other to create a contrast. Paint the slightly darker color on the two narrow end walls and the wall over the vanity. Paint the long wall with no fixtures with the lightest color. If possible, select a light-reflective paint. Paint all the trim in bright white.


2. Hang a large mirror over the vanity. For the most visual size impact, use a mirror with no frame. Make the mirror as long and tall as the vanity will allow and still look proportionate. The mirror will reflect the lighter color from the other wall and make the room appear larger.








3. Choose the perfect shower curtain to make the room appear wider. If the bathtub is parallel to a long wall, choose a shower curtain with a solid color or light bright and keep the shower curtain tied back to the narrow wall. If the shower curtain is closed, it will make the room appear narrower. If the tub is parallel to a short wall, choose a shower curtain with horizontal strips and keep the shower curtain closed.


4. Place striped rugs on the floor with the stripes running perpendicular to the long walls. This will visually push the walls out and make the room appear wider.


5. Clear vanities, toilet tanks and other surfaces of clutter. A minimalistic approach to decorating will keep the room looking wider. A cluttered, overdecorated room will look smaller.


6. Replace dim lighting with bright lighting. Dim lighting will make a room appear smaller.

Tags: shower curtain, make room, make room appear, room appear, appear larger, appear wider, choose shower

Thursday, March 15, 2012

Wire Overhead Lights & Fan

There are many scenarios for wiring a ceiling fan and light combo.This wiring scheme is used specifically when the source power originates at the switch. In other words, there in only one switch. In this case, the black wire is interrupted by the switch and your white neutral wire comes directly from the source. The black wire is your hot wire. The white is your neutral wire and the green is your ground.


Instructions


1. Turn off the power to the room you are working in at the circuit breaker. Turn off the switch on the wall to turn off power to the light and fan as well.








2. Connect the white wire of the fan/light directly to the white wire from the source. Strip the wire 1 inch with a wire stripper. Twist wires together with snub nose pliers in a clockwise direction until snug. Use wire nuts to finish the connection, twisting them on in a clockwise manner.


3. Repeat Step 2 with the green wire, connecting green to green.


4. Wire the black wire from the top terminal of the switch to the fan/light's black and blue wires. Strip all wires 1 inch with wire strippers and twist the wires together with a snub nose pliers in a clockwise direction. Use wire nuts to finish the connection, twisting them on in a clockwise direction.

Tags: black wire, clockwise direction, connection twisting, connection twisting them, finish connection, finish connection twisting, from source

Popcorn Ceilings

Popcorn ceilings were very popular in the 1960s and 1970s in American residences. They are spray-on or paint-on acoustic treatments for ceilings. Although popcorn ceilings are not as popular these days as they were a few decades ago, some houses still have them. Here is some more information about popcorn ceilings.


Significance


Popcorn ceilings are white and have sort of a "cottage cheese" style rippled texture. Oftentimes, there are tiny bits of gold glitter included. This style was utilized because it was good at covering up inadequate workmanship in connecting and taping of drywall. Also, it lessened echoes and reflected sounds, and was easy and quick to apply in new construction.


History


The popularity of popcorn ceilings has waned considerably since the 1960s and 1970s, mostly because of the banning of asbestos, which is a toxic mineral. Asbestos was usually an ingredient of popcorn ceilings. That is why it is possible to find popcorn ceilings that were constructed in that time period today, but they are rarely (if ever) included in new housing constructions.








Considerations


Another reason why popcorn ceiling became unpopular is the fact that it is rather hard to maintain. When popcorn ceilings age and get dirty, they become highly attractive. That is why people choose to opt for ceilings with easier, handmade finishes. Popcorn ceilings are extremely complicated to paint and patch.


Warning


If you purchase an older home that has popcorn ceilings, it can be extremely costly to get rid of the rather dated ceiling style. Many builders will charge up to $8000 for a popcorn ceiling removal job. Luckily, there are some easier ways to hide popcorn ceilings if their "older" appearance bothers you. It is possible to cover up popcorn ceilings with styrofoam ceiling tiles, which can be stuck on by using ceramic tile glue.


Expert Insight


If you live in a residence that has popcorn tiles and are worried about the asbestos factor, it's a good idea to make sure that your popcorn ceilings contain it, because not all of them do. You can submit "popcorn" samples to a laboratory for an expert analysis at a minimal cost. You can scrape off one square inch of "popcorn" by using a putty knife, and then send it off to the lab. If you find that your results are positives for asbestos, you should consider removal options.

Tags: popcorn ceilings, 1960s 1970s, ceilings extremely, ceilings with, popcorn ceiling, popcorn ceilings, popcorn ceilings

Wednesday, March 14, 2012

Decorate Your Bathroom With Antiques

Use antiques to decorate your bathroom in an elegant, glamorous style. If you are on a budget, transform everyday items, such as boxes and jars, into stylish bathroom decor. Complement the antiques with lace curtains and soft paint shades, such as cream, lavender or rose. Mix items that you already have, such as towels, with authentic vintage pieces to create a brand-new bathroom design.


Instructions


1. Replace your modern tub with a cast-iron claw-foot version for authentic vintage style. Breathe new life into the antique tub by painting it. Use rust-resistant paint, such as Rust-Oleum, which comes in a wide variety of colors and finishes (see Resources). Use gold paint on the feet for a glamorous look; Gold Leaf offers several metallic tones, from antique bronze to rich gold (see Resources). Use a clear plastic liner and a vintage linen featuring sweet embroidery details as a shower curtain.


2. For an old Hollywood dressing room-inspired look, buy an antique vanity table and chair set; use it to fill in an empty nook in your bathroom. For a vintage country style, choose a white wicker set; pick a polished wood version for a classic look. Place an antique hand-held mirror on the table to complete the look.


3. Get creative by turning antique wooden tool boxes into jewelry holders. Keep the rustic wood look, or paint the box to match your bathroom decor. The little slots are ideal for holding bracelets, necklaces, rings and other small personal items.


4. Replace your boring metal doorknobs with vintage crystal versions for an instant shot of style. You can also use the glamorous-looking knobs on your bathroom wall to hold towels and robes for a cohesive appearance.


5. Use antique glass Mason jars to hold bathroom toiletries and various odds and ends, such as cotton balls, bobby pins and Q-tips. Place the jars on your bathroom counter tops for a simple vintage look. You can also use the jars to hold fresh-cut flowers.

Tags: your bathroom, authentic vintage, bathroom decor, jars hold, Replace your

Tuesday, March 13, 2012

Paint A Ceiling Tile To Look Like Tin

Painting a ceiling to look like tin is relatively easy but requires the ability to stand on a ladder for a long period, or the use of a long-handled paint roller. Cleaning the ceiling and allowing it to thoroughly dry should be completed a day before beginning the faux tin ceiling project. Select an embossed design suited to resemble a tin pattern. Home improvement staff can assist with this process.


Instructions


1. Measure and cut enough strips of wallpaper to cover the ceiling.








2. Soak embossed wallpaper in wallpaper paste and a water mixture for at least 5 minutes.


3. Press the wallpaper firmly onto the ceiling. Smooth any wrinkles or creases. Staple wallpaper to the ceiling to secure it if necessary. Dry the wallpaper overnight before proceeding with the paint.


4. Roll metallic tin colored paint over the embossed wallpaper. Dry the paint overnight.


5. Apply a second coat of paint to achieve the desired effect. This step is optional.

Tags: embossed wallpaper

Advantages & Disadvantages Of Using Drywall

Easier to install and less expensive, drywall has overtaken plaster in popularity.


When you build or remodel a home, you have many decisions to make. Some, like paint color and curtain fabric, are easily changed when you tire of them. Other decisions, such as which building material to use for your walls, are much more permanent, so it's important to consider your options before making your choice.


Installation


One big advantage of drywall is that it is faster and easier to install than traditional plaster. Traditional plaster requires a skilled plasterer to apply three coats of plaster over a framework of lath strips. Do-it-yourselfers, on the other hand, can install drywall on their own and find a local professional to complete the taping and finishing. Do not attempt to do this part of the task on your own unless you are experienced.


A disadvantage to drywall is its weight. A standard 4-by-8 sheet of 1/2-inch drywall weighs more than 50 lbs. This means either you need a partner to help you move and install it or you need to pay to have it delivered and use a machine called a drywall jack to install ceiling panels if you are working on a ceiling. Another disadvantage to drywall is that it is not as flexible as plaster, so drywalling curved surfaces is challenging and may not achieve the desired results.


Durability


Drywall is more stable than plaster, but it is not as durable. Drywall is thinner and has joints -- plaster does not -- making it more prone to dents and holes, but drywall is easy to repair. Use a drywall patch or joint compound to fill in dents.


Another benefit of drywall is that it is fire-resistant because it is made of a mineral called gypsum. Plaster is also fire-resistant, making both choices better than other building materials.


Appearance


There are a couple of potential disadvantages to drywall when it comes to appearance. If the finisher does not tape them properly, the joints between sheets may be visible. This is why it is so important to hire a professional finisher.


Also, drywall cannot give a handcrafted look. While this probably doesn't concern most homeowners, it will matter if you are trying to restore a home from the early 1900s and want to retain that authentic look.


Considerations


Mold-resistant drywall is coated with fiberglass to prevent mold growth.


Choose the right wallboard for the job. Drywall typically comes in sheets that are 4 feet wide. Length varies from 8 to 16 feet, with thickness varying between 1/4 and 5/8 of an inch.


Choose moisture-resistant drywall -- often referred to as "greenboard" because it is green -- for humid areas such as bathrooms and laundry rooms. If you are concerned about mold, consider a mold-resistant drywall. This wallboard is also moisture-resistant but gives you added protection against the growth of mold and mildew.

Tags: drywall that, disadvantage drywall

Sheetrock Vs Drop Ceiling

Sheetrock is a brand of drywall that can be used to finish a ceiling. A drop ceiling, also known as a suspended ceiling, is a viable alternative to drywall. Each has its pros and cons -- such as cost and appearance -- to be considered before you decide which one to install on your next ceiling project.


Drop Ceiling Pros


A drop ceiling can easily be installed right under the open joists by most average do-it-yourselfers. Metal bars are screwed around the perimeter of the wall and a suspended metal grid is attached to the joists. The tiles are then popped into place inside the grid. It is a relatively inexpensive fix compared to drywall ceilings in unfinished spaces. You also have easy access to any wiring, air ducts and plumbing above the ceiling. Running wires for a surround sound system or cable wires, for example, is also easier than it would be in a room with a Sheetrock ceiling.


Sheetrock Ceiling Pros








A Sheetrock ceiling can be more attractive than a drop ceiling and if it is in good shape, adds value to the home. You also can easily paint a drywall ceiling. To help hide any blemishes, you can paint it with textured paint. Alternatively, you can create a textured finish using different painting techniques, such as sponging and combing.








Drop Ceiling Cons


A drop ceiling takes away valuable head space, usually about eight inches. In some rooms, especially in a basement or attic space, this can create a tight fit for some family members, guests and potential home buyers. The tiles can also sag and discolor over time. However, you can replace these with new tiles, but this is an added expense.


Sheetrock Ceiling Cons


A Sheetrock ceiling can be difficult to install for the average do-it-yourselfer. The drywall must be cut to fit, glued, held against the joists and screwed in. The seams and nail or screw holes then are filled and sanded several times until they appear seamless. You may also have to deal with nail or screw pops, which are caused when the Sheetrock dries out or as the air pressure changes. Also, if you have a plumbing leak, you must remove a section of the drywall rather simply popping out the affected drop ceiling tiles and putting in new ones. While Sheetrock also closes off access to wiring and plumbing, you can install access panels to important areas, such as water shut-off valves.

Tags: drop ceiling, access wiring, also have, Ceiling Cons, Ceiling Pros, drop ceiling

Monday, March 12, 2012

Wire A Pull Chain Switch

Pull chains or cords may have decorative beads for gripping.


Pull chain light switches are inexpensive switches often made of plastic with nickel or brass fittings to complement the color of your light fixture. The constant use of the pull chain switch can cause the light switch to break, leaving a light permanently on or off. Pull chain light switches are universal and not specific to any one manufacturer. Save some money by replacing this inexpensive switch rather than replacing the entire light fixture.


Instructions


1. Disconnect the electricity to the pull chain light fixture at the main breaker panel. Locate the breaker that supplies electricity to the light fixture and turn it off.


2. Remove the light shade and the light bulbs if applicable. Remove the screws to the light fixture holding it to the ceiling electrical box.


3. Pull the fixture from the ceiling and untwist the wire connectors holding the white wire from the light fixture and the white wire from the ceiling electrical box together. Untwist the connector holding the two black wires together, the one from the ceiling box and one from the light fixture pull chain switch. Finish disconnecting the light fixture from the ceiling by untwisting the connector holding the bare copper wire from the ceiling electrical box to the green ground wire from the light fixture.








4. Move your light fixture to a sturdy work surface. Untwist the retaining nut from the exterior of the light fixture that holds the pull chain switch. The chain from the switch threads through the retaining nut for easy identification.


5. Untwist the connector holding a black wire from the pull chain switch to the black wire from the light fixture. The pull chain switch has two black wires attached to it. One wire connects to the power supply wire inside the electrical box and the other wire connects to the light fixture.


6. Remove the old pull chain switch from the light fixture and discard it. Insert the threaded throat of a replacement pull chain switch through the opening you removed the old switch from. Thread the chain through the retaining nut and attach the nut to the threaded throat of the switch, turning it clockwise.


7. Connect the black wire from the light fixture to a black wire from the pull chain switch by twisting an orange wire connector onto both wires.








8. Twist an orange wire connector to the black wire from the ceiling electrical box to the remaining black wire of the pull chain switch, connecting them together. Reconnect the two white wires together with another orange wire connector. Twist an orange wire connector onto the bare copper wire from the ceiling electrical box connecting it with the green wire from the light fixture.


9. Reattach the light fixture to the ceiling electrical box with the screws you removed in Step 2. Replace the light bulbs and the light shade onto the light fixture. Turn the electricity on at the main electrical breaker panel.

Tags: light fixture, wire from, pull chain switch, chain switch, from ceiling, from light, from light fixture

Modern Tuscan Decorating







Update your Tuscan design and make it modern.


Tuscany is thought to be the birthplace of the Italian Renaissance. Another important distinction that this region of Central Italy holds is that it gave rise to the very popular Tuscan decorating style. Tuscany is known for its picturesque countryside vistas and influence on interior design. Your kitchen is one area where you can really showcase this design style in modern ways.








Instructions


1. Start with your walls. A simple paint job can make a dramatic difference. Try putting traditional Tuscan colors on the walls. These modern colors represent the natural tones and hues found in countryside landscapes: brown, representing the earth; green, olives and trees; gold, the sun; and blue, the sky. Or paint a landscape mural on the wall featuring wheat fields, olive trees and grape vineyards. Another Tuscan technique is fresco, plastering the walls, then painting a mural on the plaster.


2. Find fitting furniture. To play up the rustic, Tuscan feel, look for wooden or wood-hewn styles of whatever furniture you need: table and chairs, hutches, benches, and stools for the breakfast counter. If you're redecorating a kitchen, give it a dramatic new look by painting the cabinets one of the contemporary colors mentioned in Step 1. Also use these colors in table centerpieces and chair cushions. Replace the plain light fixture over the table with a modern chandelier.


3. Pull it together. Add a few modern finishing Tuscan touches. Set out some vases and urns. Hang a tapestry, an iron art piece, or a wreath made of grapevines on the wall. Use glass and stone accents. Use wine bottles, grape bunches and baskets as centerpieces. On a corner shelving unit, place decorative objects such as candles and neatly stacked Italian ceramics. Hang curtains made of designer Italian fabrics on the window. Bring in on organic touch of greenery with potted plants that grow in Mediterranean soil, such as lavender and agave.

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Use Airtight Ic Lights In Bathrooms

Airtight IC lights prevent bathroom moisture from reaching home insulation.








Lights that carry an insulated contact or "IC" rating are fully insulated. The insulation in these recessed lights prevents energy loss when they are installed in ceilings. If conditioned air can exit your primary living space through your lighting fixtures, your energy bill will grow. Airtight recessed lighting fixtures prevent air from escaping through the light housing and subsequently prevent energy loss. In addition, the Pennsylvania Housing Project Research/Resource Center warns that the moisture in conditioned air can cause mold growth should it leak into dry, insulated areas. Installing airtight IC lights in your bathroom prevents moist bathroom air from reaching and damaging your home's insulation.


Recessed Lighting


Unlike standard light fixtures, which are attached to the wall, airtight IC lights rest in a light housing that you must install within the wall. The recessed housing provides you with ample lighting while taking up less space - an ideal solution in bathrooms, where space is often an issue. You can use airtight IC lights as task lights around your vanity or select dimmer bulbs and install recessed fixtures as accent lights to complement your bathroom's decor and increase the visibility other light fixtures provide.


Waterproof Lighting


Airtight fixtures are crucial if you plan to install recessed lighting in your shower. Not only do they prevent shower moisture from exiting the bathroom, but they also prevent moisture from entering the light housing and damaging the light or its wiring. Homeowners can ensure added protection from moisture by installing airtight IC lights with a waterproof tub and shower trim. Tub and shower trims also create a continuous seal across groups of airtight IC lights.


Cost vs. Savings


Airtight IC lights are typically more expensive to purchase and install than standard recessed fixtures. Depending on how many lights you need, the savings you'll realize by using airtight IC lights could be significant. The Pennsylvania Housing Project Research/Resource Center notes that each IC light you install saves between $5 and $30 in energy costs each year. If the initial cost of airtight IC lights is a deterrent, other recessed lighting is available for your bathroom. Installing an airtight and watertight seal helps prevent energy loss when using alternate recessed lighting options.


Warning


Heat does not escape from airtight IC lighting fixtures as easily as it would through a standard recessed light. Because of this, you cannot use high wattage bulbs in your IC-rated lights. If you use bulbs that burn too brightly, your bathroom lights may overheat and shut off. Always follow the manufacturer's recommendations when selecting bulbs for your IC-rated bathroom lights.

Tags: recessed lighting, your bathroom, energy loss, light housing, lighting fixtures

Friday, March 9, 2012

Rewire A Vintage Threeway Table Lamp

Vintage table lamp


If your vintage table lamp has begun flickering, it may need a new lamp cord. The existing cord may be damaged, or the wires beneath the insulation may have become partially broken. Rewiring a table lamp is a relatively simple task. Replacement cords are available at most home improvement centers, hardware stores, or electrical supply houses. Your project will only take a few minutes to complete, and you will only need to use one common tool.


Instructions








1. Unplug the lamp from the wall outlet. Remove the finial, shade, shade harp, and light bulb. Put them aside. The lamp socket will now be completely exposed.


2. Squeeze the socket shroud where the word "Press" is stamped into the metal. Wiggle the socket shroud and remove it from the socket base. This will expose the socket interior.


3. Loosen the screws holding the waires to the socket interior. Remove the wires from the screws, and remove the socket interior. Set it aside with the other components you removed earlier.


4. Pull the old lamp cord out through the base of the table lamp and discard it. Insert the new cord into the base of the lamp. Thread it upward until the end emerges through the hole in the socket base.


5. Remove the precut insullation from the tips of the lamp cord wires. Wrap each around one screw of the socket interior and tighten the screws back down until the wires are securely attached.


6. Reinstall the socket shroud. Press your fingers where the word "Press" is stamped into the metal. Wiggle the shroud down over the socket interior until it snaps and locks into the socket base.


7. Reinstall the light bulb, shade harp, shade, and finial. Plug the lamp into a wall outlet and turn it on.

Tags: socket interior, lamp cord, socket base, socket shroud, table lamp, into metal, into metal Wiggle