Monday, April 30, 2012

Chandelier Ideas

When decorating your home, look for alternatives to the traditional chandelier.


A chandelier adds depth to your interior design scheme by drawing the eye upward and providing a functional piece of hanging art. Many chandeliers are traditional and ornate, but you can purchase or create a chandelier that reflects your personal style and complements the design of your home.


Socket


Make a socket chandelier, for a quick, do-it-yourself chandelier that makes a big statement. Start with a single standard ceramic light socket attached to a cord, and use socket extenders to make a pattern that radiates from the center. Once your have the complete socket extender pattern, screw in light bulbs and hang by the cord for an artistic chandelier. This type of chandelier is particularly useful for rooms with high ceilings, where the bold design will not overwhelm the room.


Candles


A chandelier lined with glowing candles has a softening, warming effect on a room. Choose a simple frame to show off the candles. A wooden square or a wrought-iron circle are elegant and do not interfere with the flickering light from candles, which can be thick pillars or tiny tea lights. Place this type of chandelier in a room where you gather often, such as a dining room, and where it will be easy to place a ladder or chair to replace the candles.


Painted


If you are looking for an interesting and modern twist on the traditional chandelier, choose an ornate wooden version and paint it a bold, unexpected color. A bright-red chandelier, for example, adds instant drama to a black and white room and creates a focal point. For the biggest impact, choose a color that contrasts with the base colors of the rest of the room.








Silverware


A funky chandelier made of old knives, forks, and spoons creates a simple lighting element with dramatic impact. To make it, start with an bicycle rim and drill a series of holes around the rim. Experiment with spacing as you start tying to create different effects. Drill holes in the handle of each piece of silverware and use wire s-hooks to attach them to the bicycle rim. You can make a tiered chandelier by using rims of different sizes, or bend the rim into different shapes. Create a hanger by extending wires from the top ring to a hook hung from the ceiling and place a hanging bulb in the center of the chandelier.


Branch


Chandeliers constructed from tree branches bring in an elegant natural element to your house. This type of chandelier has lights wired into the branches and, when hung, appear to float above your dining room table or on the ceiling of a room. Tree branch chandeliers are best hung at a relatively low height above a seating area or table.

Tags: type chandelier, chandelier that, dining room, room where, This type, This type chandelier, traditional chandelier

Paint Wooden Crown Molding

Painted crown molding will enhance the look of painted walls.


Wood crown molding makes a beautiful addition to any room. Painted wooden crown molding looks very nice in rooms where the walls are painted with a solid color. If you're the do-it-yourself type, painting wooden crown molding is quite easy. No special tools are required except for regular paint brushes and paint. Here's do it.


Instructions


1. Lightly sand the wood to remove any rough spots. This can be accomplished with a 150 grit sand paper. Wipe off the sawdust with a damp cloth and allow the molding to fully dry.








2. Apply a coat of primer to the crown molding. Typically, a latex water based primer will be sufficient, and easier to clean up, for indoor painting. Allow this to dry before applying paint. You can also purchase pre-primed crown molding which saves you this step.


3. Using a paint brush, apply one to three coats of paint to the wooden crown molding. Choose whatever color you like. Use a latex water based paint. Latex based paint typically produces less fumes. This makes it ideal for indoor use. You can also choose the type of shine you'd like from your paint. Flat, Satin, Semi-gloss and gloss are all choices you can make.

Tags: crown molding, crown molding, wooden crown molding, based paint, latex water, latex water based, water based

Fill In Paneling Cracks

Taking paneling off the walls is a difficult and time-consuming task. Painting the paneling is the easiest way to change the look of the room. A necessary step to prepare paneling for painting is filling in the cracks in the paneling.


Instructions


Use Caulk


1. Fill a bucket with warm water. Dilute some cleaner in the bucket. Use a sponge with a scrubber on the back to thoroughly clean the walls.


2. Use the rags to wipe off the walls as you clean so dirty water will not collect on your floor. Allow the walls to dry completely.


3. Brush primer onto the walls at the cracks. Brush primer on the entire wall if you are going to paint the walls. Allow the primer to dry for a couple of hours.


4. Cut the tip off the caulk container using a utility knife.


5. Load the caulk gun with the caulk. Fill the cracks in the paneling using one smooth pass of the caulk gun.


6. Wipe the caulk immediately with a damp rag to even out the caulk and make it flush with the rest of the paneling. Let the caulk dry completely.


7. Inspect the caulk-filled cracks. Check to see if the caulk has shrunk as it dried and is no longer flush with the rest of the paneling.


8. Repeat Steps 5 and 6 if necessary to completely fill the cracks in the paneling.


Use Filler Compound


9. Clean the paneling as in Steps 1 and 2 above.


10. Fill the cracks in your paneling using a wood filler compound instead of caulk. Use a putty knife to apply the wood filler to the walls. Smooth it out as much as you can and allow the putty to dry completely.


11. Sand the putty to smooth it out and remove any excess.

Tags: cracks paneling, Brush primer, Fill cracks, flush with, flush with rest, paneling using

Friday, April 27, 2012

Alternative To A Chandelier In A Vaulted Ceiling

Use chandelier alternatives in vaulted ceilings to create a modern look.


A chandelier is a classic finishing touch for a vaulted ceiling, but there are many design alternatives that provide just as much "wow" factor. Dramatic, high vaulted ceilings are difficult to decorate with lighting because they are sloped and angled, but homeowners have many elegant and eye-catching alternatives to the traditional hanging chandelier. Instead of going with a classic look, use different lighting options to create a much more modern design.


Skylights


Vaulted ceilings are a perfect place for skylights, which help spread light and open up any room. Adding skylights to an existing vaulted ceiling is a lengthy and potentially costly project. If skylights are included in the vaulted ceiling design in the beginning, homeowners can take full advantage of natural lighting. When changing existing vaulted ceilings it too expensive and difficult, additional windows may be added to the surrounding vertical walls to bring in extra natural lighting.








Recesssed Lighting


Recessed lighting is set into the ceiling, so the bulbs are flush with the ceiling itself. Recessed lights are very streamlined and modern, but some homeowners may find the harsh shadow effects the lights create to be undesirable. Be mindful of where the lights are pointing to use them to best effect. Also be mindful of what's above the ceiling before indiscriminately cutting into it. Some vaulted ceilings may be unsuitable for recessed lighting, because the housing for the lights may cut into roof insulation.


Ceiling Fans


Ceiling fans that have their own lights are decorative and practical. The fans help to stir and circulate air, which can be very useful in rooms with high, vaulted ceilings. Different lighting options allow you to choose ceiling fans with one or multiple lights. Add a series of ceiling fans along a vaulted ceiling to improve lighting and air flow dramatically in the room. Ceiling fans are available in a wide variety of styles and materials, from modern stainless steel to highly embellished wood and brass designs. Ceiling fans can save you on air conditioning bills, and many designs are energy efficient so they will not dramatically increase electricity costs.








Track Lighting


Track lighting is a perfect complement for the slanted walls created by vaulted ceilings. The canisters set on the tracks may be pointed in any direction, so you can use track lighting to spotlight different works or art and other elements in your room. Track lights complement any modern home decor.

Tags: vaulted ceilings, existing vaulted, high vaulted, high vaulted ceilings, lighting because

Make A Ceiling Medallion

Plaster and wooden medallions once only decorated ceilings in palaces, government buildings and the homes and businesses of the wealthy. Although faux, prefabricated medallions made of lightweight plastic have made it possible for anyone to cheaply re-create these grand ceiling interiors, they often lack complex designs or enrichments and embellishments. With preparation, concentration and a few items from a local DIY store, you can easily make an elaborate ceiling medallion for your home.


Instructions








Designing a Medallion


1. Look at pre-existing medallions in architecture books/magazines or online to help you understand the typical designs (styles, colors and enrichment/embellishments) used by professionals. Cut out or print, if possible, any styles, colors and enrichment/embellishments that you like and believe will work best on your ceiling; or write them down.


2. Go to a wallpaper or DIY store and look at various pre-colored or paintable textured wallpaper. You will use wallpaper to form the background circle of your medallion. Collect samples of styles that match your ideas. In addition, at the DIY store look at various wooden ornamental molding pieces--small or large rosettes, shells, swags, flowers, geometrics, stars or balls--like those found at Lowes (see Resources) as these items will embellish any part of the medallion (interior, edge and outside areas) and create depth. Purchase one of every piece that you like or go to the DIY store's website and print out an image of each.


3. Plan and draw your medallion design based on the samples and your ideas. If you're not artistically inclined, approach the design process in one of four ways: 1) Use a graphic design program to help you. 2) Ask a friend with artistic ability to assist. 3) Print out multiple copies of the ornamental pieces, cut them out and layer/arrange them overtop the wallpaper samples until you have a design that you like, and then take a photograph of the design to reference. 4) Imagine the arrangement of the pieces based on the samples, draw a basic circle, mark the circle with colored dots showing the locations of the embellishments (for example, yellow dots for the location of stars, black for balls, pink for small rosettes or red for large rosettes).


4. Buy your wallpaper, ornamental pieces and other supplies.


Wallpaper Background


5. Remove your light fixture. If you cannot remove it, turn off the lights and remove the bulbs.


6. Place a piece of string at the point where your light fixture attaches to the ceiling and draw the other end of the string slowly taut out to the approximate width of half of your chosen medallion size. Cut away excess string. If your medallion isn't above a light fixture, select the center of your ceiling and measure from there.


7. Tie the cut string to the head of a 3-inch nail and the other end to a pencil to make a DIY compass. Use the compass to draw a circle on the back of your wallpaper by placing the nail at the center, pulling the thread taut and using the pencil to sketch the circle.


8. Cut out the circle and glue it to your ceiling with a non-drip adhesive. If applying above a light fixture, cut the circle in half and carefully glue/line-up each portion to your ceiling around the fixture.


Enrichments and Embellishments


9. Paint your ornamental pieces; let them dry.


10. Apply strong, long-lasting adhesive to the back of large pieces, affix to the circle and repeat; or drill small holes through each large piece into your ceiling and screw each into place. Once you're satisfied with the placement, move on to the next step.


11. Attach the smaller pieces to or around the larger pieces and/or the outside of the medallion. Follow the application instructions from Step 2.

Tags: your ceiling, light fixture, ornamental pieces, that like, your medallion, above light

Thursday, April 26, 2012

Plank Ceiling Tiles

Installing ceiling planks is a simple but tedious task that can place a great deal of strain on the neck and back. With the proper tools, material and instruction a clean looking job will be attainable. It is important that all wood used in the project is dry, free from defects and high quality.








Instructions


1. Locate all of the ceiling joists in the room with a stud finder. Snap the placement of the joists with chalk lines.


2. Install the furring beginning with the first strip along the edge of the wall perpendicular with the ceiling joists. Use two 8d nails at each joist to securely fix the furring to the joists.


3. Continue installing furring strips parallel to the next 12'' on center. Use a carpenter's level on each furring strip to ensure they're level.


4. Slide a shim piece between the ceiling and any uneven parts of the furring strips. Saw off the end of the strip with a hand saw.


5. Measure the length of the room and divide the length by 6", then add 6" to the remainder. Divide this sum by two and this will be the width the first row needs to be cut lengthwise. Cut the first row of planks to equal these measurements.


6. Nail the ceiling planks to the furring beginning with right hand corner of the room and work from right to left. Place nails in the flange of the planks where it crosses a furring and nail on the ends of the plank. Stagger each row of planks by 12" so the seams do not line up. It works best to begin each row with a plank that is 12" longer or shorter than the previous plank. Ensure that all planks begin and end on furring to add extra support and allow for nailing.


7. Nail the edge planks as close to the wall using 3d nails so that they will be covered by the molding. Cut out any openings in the ceiling for light fixtures.








8. Cut molding strips to equal the circumference of the room. Install molding around the edges of the ceiling ensuring to nail at least every 24 inches.

Tags: beginning with, ceiling joists, ceiling planks, furring beginning, furring beginning with, furring strips

Making An Exposed Ceiling







An exposed-beam ceiling adds rustic charm to the space.


Commonly seen in log cabins and barns, exposed-beam ceilings are now often found in homes and buildings. The beams create rural charm and architectural interest to the indoor space. If your ceilings are over 8 feet tall, you can easily create and install exposed wood beams for aesthetics. The common wood choices for these beams include pine and oak. Ensure the beams measure slightly longer than the ceiling when they arrive, so you can cut them to the required length.


Instructions


1. Run a stud finder over the ceiling to mark the locations of ceiling joists. You need to run the wood beams across these joists horizontally.


2. Measure the width of the ceiling with measuring tape to determine the length of the exposed beams. Also, divide the ceiling into equal increments for the placement of the beams. Decide on the spacing for the beams, based on the shape and size of the ceiling and your personal preference. Record your measurements.








3. Form a pencil mark along the ceiling edges to highlight the placement of the beams. Snap a chalk line along each pencil mark on the ceiling to serve as a guideline that will keep the beams straight and evenly spaced when installed.


4. Form a cutting line on each board with pencil that corresponds to the width of the ceiling. Measure the length of the beams two times to ensure the cutting line is accurate.


5. Cut each wood beam to the desired length, using a circular saw. Set the extra wood aside to store for other projects.


6. Sand the wood beams using fine-grit sandpaper or a sanding block to remove sharp edges and splinters, and roughen the surface in preparation for the stain or paint. Wear a face mask when sanding the beams, so you do not inhale the sanding residue. Wipe off the beams with a moist rag to remove accumulated dust.


7. Apply a coat of your desired paint or stain over each wood beam using a paintbrush, moving in the direction of the wood grain. The paint or stain protects the wood and enhances its appearance. Allow the paint to dry thoroughly for several hours before applying another coat of paint over it to achieve a bold color. Allow the beams to dry thoroughly.


8. Apply polyurethane over each beam when the paint or stain dries, using a clean paintbrush. Allow it to dry thoroughly for the time specified on the label's directions.


9. Set the beam on the ceiling, with its edges flush against a chalk line. Hold the nail gun at an angle above the edge of a side of the beam and shoot a nail so it penetrates the joist and secures it in place. Repeat this process on the other side of the beam, and for the remaining beams.

Tags: paint stain, wood beams, ceiling with, chalk line, cutting line, each wood, each wood beam

Wednesday, April 25, 2012

Ceiling Tile Cutting Tools

Ceiling tiles are cut with saws, knives and nippers.








Ceiling tiles are typically made out of fiberboard, a synthetic material made out of plant fibers and chemical resins that seal the tile into a solid. Ceiling tiles typically come in only a few sizes, often 12x12 inches, so homeowners and installer need to cut the tiles to fit most ceiling shapes. While fiberboard is generally easy to shape, several tools are used to speed up the process.


Utility Knife


A utility is a simple-edged knife, typically a razor blade suspended in a plastic sheath for protection, which is one of the most common tile cutting tools since utility knives are simple, inexpensive, and are used for a variety of tasks. Typically installers draw a chalk line on the tile and carefully cut down the line with the knife deep enough to fully cut the tile.


Shielded Cutters


Shielded cutters are designed especially to cut off the edges of ceiling tile. This type of cutter also uses a razor blade but has a more complicated system, with metal panels on either side, allowing the installer to rest the blade on the tile with a section of the cutter hooked over the tile edge for support. The installer can exert much more force down on the tile without worrying about accuracy or the sharp razor blade.


Snips


Snips are simple tools, similar to pliers and designed to make small cuts in the tile. Snips are useful when ceiling tiles have only small flaws or to cut corners off to make a fit. Installers can save a lot of time by using snips instead of taking the tile down, measuring and recutting with a razor blade.


Saw


A saw is a common tool when cutting tile. Although rougher than a razor blade and not always as accurate, saws are useful when installers want to make long cuts in many different tiles. Typically installers support the tile against a table or cutting board and use a hand saw to quickly make the cut.


Hole Saw or Rotary Tool


Hole saws and rotary tools (attached to the head of the drill) both accomplish the same task: cutting holes in tile for light fixtures and other electrical components. The holes are difficult to correctly measure and cut, but hole saws are designed to drill accurate circles easily in the tile.

Tags: razor blade, Ceiling tiles, Ceiling tiles typically, tiles typically, Typically installers

Measure For Tulle Decorations On A Ceiling







You can decorate a wall several different ways with tulle. Since tulle is a silk--like fabric that resembles a sheer curtain, you can use it as a backdrop fabric to cover an unsightly wall or use it as a sconce and drape it over brackets mounted along the upper wall. This gives a drapery appearance and provides a luxurious feel to your room's d cor. You must measure the ceiling and wall to make sure you purchase tulle long enough for your needs.








Instructions


1. Place a tape measure against the wall where you want to start your tulle decoration and extend it across the room to the parallel wall. Jot down the measurement.


2. Determine how many downward arches you want in your tulle and determine how far you want those arches to drop. For example, six large arches that drop 24 inches each would make for a stunning decoration. Multiply the number of arches by how far you want them to drop.


3. Determine how far you want the tulle to hang down on each end of the wall. A length that extends to within a few inches of the floor looks nice. To determine the exact measurement, measure down from the location where you will attach the tulle down to the location where you want the tulle to stop. Multiply the resulting number by two since you have two overhangs.


4. Add all of the numbers together to determine the total length of tulle you need.

Tags: arches want, location where, want tulle, where want, your tulle

Tuesday, April 24, 2012

Paint Roses On The Ceiling

Decorating a room does not have to stop at the walls. When you want to decorate the ceiling of a room as well as its walls, consider painting roses onto it. Many people cannot freehand pictures like roses, so they use a stencil and make painting the design easier and the roses more uniform. Stenciling a pattern onto a ceiling is more difficult than doing so onto a wall, but most people will relish the challenge.


Instructions








1. Choose a rose stencil for your ceiling. Select one stencil that is the size and shape that you would desire, or choose several rose stencils of varying shapes and sizes.


2. Place a tall ladder beneath the area in which you want to begin stenciling the roses. Starting at a corner is often easier so that you can uniformly stencil the entire ceiling.


3. Place the stencil onto the ceiling and tape it with painter's tape, making sure that you do so tightly so that there is no space between the ceiling and the stencil.


4. Place your paint inside a small paint tray and roll a small foam roller lightly in the paint. Do not overload the roller with the paint, because excess paint could squeeze beneath the stencil and cause a smear.


5. Roll the foam roller over the stencil lightly. Pressing too hard could make the paint seep beneath the stencil. Leave the stencil in place and allow the paint to dry completely.


6. Apply a second coat when the first coat is dry. Allow that coat to dry, then remove the stencil.


7. Use a sponge brush that has a flat, wide tip if you are using a stencil that will have more than one color, such as a rose with leaves and a stem. Apply paint to the sponge tip and stipple it onto the stencil using a straight up and down motion. Allow the first color to dry for a few moments.


8. Repeat the process with a clean sponge brush and a different color of paint in the remaining sections of the stencil.


9. Apply another coat of each color, allow the paint to dry and then remove the stencil.

Tags: allow paint, beneath stencil, foam roller, onto ceiling, remove stencil

Living Room Ceiling Colors

White is a timeless choice in ceiling colors.


It may be that you've given a great deal of thought to the color you're going to paint your walls but less thought to the color you'd like to paint ceilings. Perish the thoughtlessness. Changing the color of your living room ceiling is a fast, easy way to give the room a new look.


Safe Bet








White is the ultimate safe bet when it comes to ceiling color. White matches anything, makes a ceiling look crisp and fresh, and helps give a ceiling an illusion of height. There are many shades of white available, from snow-white to those with hints of other colors like yellow and blue. White is associated with tastefulness and is a timeless decorating accent.


With Light-Colored Walls


Light-colored paint reflects light, making a room feel larger. When your walls are already painted in a light shade, you have a couple of choices in regard to the ceiling. The first is to continue that light theme, making the ceiling feel as though it's higher. Hues such as pale yellow, sky blue, sunset peach, soft sand and cool, pale green will add style while helping to expand the feel of the space. If you're ready for the room to feel a little cozier, paint the ceiling a dark shade like charcoal, navy, forest green, chocolate or burgundy. Each will give the optical illusion that the ceiling is lower than it actually is.


With Dark-Colored Walls








Dark paint absorbs light, making the walls feel as though they're closer. Paint the ceiling in a light shade and you will help balance the room. Creamy white, snow white, egg-shell white and light tan will all do the job nicely. If your ceiling is in good shape, consider using a eggshell or semigloss finish to reflect light and make the ceiling feel higher.


Monochromatic


Another option when choosing a ceiling paint is to use a variation -- a complement -- of your wall color on the ceiling. For instance, if your walls are chocolate brown, paint the ceiling light tan. If the walls are royal blue, choose pale blue for the ceiling. When a monochromatic wall and ceiling combination is coupled with well-coordinated furniture, the room takes on a designer look.

Tags: your walls, ceiling feel, ceiling light, feel though, light making, light shade

Monday, April 23, 2012

Cut A Coped Joint In Wood Trim

A coping saw is a versatile tool when you're woodworking with wood moldings. Coped joints make the trim fit better against the other piece of trim. Coping works better than just mitering your joints. Coping joints is a must when you have stain-grade trim.


Instructions


1. Cut a coped joint in baseboard wood trim. Cut your first piece of base trim, measuring from wall-to-wall. Make straight cuts on both ends, using a miter saw. Your miter saw must be set on 0 degrees.


2. Make a 45-degree cut with your base molding turned up on your miter saw. For example, let's use the left-hand end of your base trim. The saw must be turned on the right-hand 45-degree angle of your miter saw. After making this cut, take your coping saw and follow your cut line on your base molding, angling your coping saw back into the wood about 10 degrees. This cope will go on the right-hand wall, against the straight end of your baseboard.


3. Follow this example to cut a coped joint in crown molding wood trim. Install your first piece of crown with straight-cut ends from wall to wall. Now, take your crown molding and invert it with the top at the bottom of your miter saw. Turn your miter saw to the left side of the 45-degree mark. It is critical that the crown mold is bedded correctly on your miter saw.








4. Finish your piece of crown by coping the cut end of the crown mold wood trim. Use the coping saw and cut the sawed area out of your finished piece of crown molding. With the cut made, you can see the profile of your crown. This is where you cut with the coping saw. Cut back into your crown between 5 and 10 degrees. This allows for a tight fit on the coped joint against the other piece of crown mold wood trim on the wall.

Tags: piece crown, wood trim, your miter, coped joint, crown mold

Fix A Coleman Abs Roof

Extend the life of your camper.


Coleman ABS roofs were introduced in 1996, and were installed on all Coleman pop-up trailers from 1996 to 1998. In 1999, Coleman stopped producing the roofs and started buying ABS roofs from another company. ABS is thick plastic that is durable, but it often cracks and becomes damaged over time. Fixing a crack in a Coleman ABS roof takes a few hours and can improve the look and life of the roof.


Instructions


1. Park the camper in a warm, dry, well-ventilated area. The camper must stay dry for at least 24 hours after the process is finished. Carports are ideal for this project because the roof stays dry and the air is circulated well. The chemicals you will be working with are highly toxic and should never be used in an enclosed space.


2. Drill a small hole at each end of the crack. These holes reduce the stress on the cracks and will stop the crack from spreading.








3. Sand around the crack and make the area rough. The glue and compounds will work better on a rough surface.


4. Clean the area with ABS cleaner to remove all debris, sap or anything else on the roof. ABS cleaner is sometimes called PVC/ABS cleaner solvent.


5. Pour equal parts ABS powder and MEK into a glass jar. ABS powder and MEK can normally be found in the PVC area at most hardware stores. Always wear gloves and safety goggles when working with these chemicals.








6. Place a lid on the jar and allow the chemicals to sit for two minutes. Open the lid and stir the mixture until it is smooth. Replace the lid and allow it to sit again. Repeat this process until the mix is the consistency of melted plastic.


7. Scoop a small amount of mixture out of the jar and spread it over the crack in the roof. Completely cover the crack with the mix. Two or three coats made be required if the crack is deep or long. The MEK will melt the ABS powder to the roof and seal the crack.


8. Allow the camper to dry for at least 24 hours.

Tags: least hours, working with

Friday, April 20, 2012

Remove A Popcorn Ceiling That Has Been Painted Over

Popular during the 1950s through the early 1980s, popcorn ceiling or acoustic ceiling is a term used to describe a spray-on technique for painting ceilings that would give ceilings a somewhat "cottage cheese" looking texture. This technique was once highly favored because it could be done cheaper than regular painting and could hide imperfections in older ceiling. Over time this type of ceiling attracts dirt and is difficult to repair if it becomes damaged. While it is somewhat simple (although messy) to remove a popcorn ceiling that has not been painted, you will find it requires an extra step to remove a popcorn ceiling that has.


Instructions


Testing For Asbestos


1. Test the popcorn ceiling for asbestos before you attempt to remove it. Prior to the 1980s this type of ceiling was often manufactured using asbestos. Federal law does not allow individuals to remove asbestos that has more than a 1-percent asbestos in the sample that is analyzed.


2. Use a putty knife to scrape a sample of the ceiling into a sandwich bag.








3. Send the sample into a testing service in your area. If there is less than 1-percent asbestos in the sample, you can then safely remove the popcorn ceiling without the aide of a professional.


Preparing The Workspace


4. Take all furniture out of the room.








5. Turn off the heating and air, as well as the electrical power to the room. Remove all light fixtures and vent covers. Use scissors to cut plastic sheeting to cover vent and fixture openings. Tape into place with painter's tape.


6. Spread a painter's tarp across the floor of the room. Secure the painter's tarp in place by taping it against baseboards or the bottom of the wall with the painter's tape.


7. Use the painter's tape around the ceiling to attach and secure plastic sheeting onto the walls. Tape the plastic sheeting to the plastic tarp at the bottom to prevent dust, water and debris from covering walls.


Removing The Popcorn Ceiling


8. Don protective clothing, safety goggles and a dust mask. You may also wish to wear a painter's cap to keep falling debris out of your hair and off your head.


9. Apply a chemical paint stripper to the section of the ceiling you will start on. Follow the manufacturer's directions on the label and allow to set as specified in the directions.


10. Place a few drops of dish detergent in a pump up sprayer. Fill the sprayer with warm water. Spray the mixture on the surface area of the ceiling. Wet a 4-to-6-foot section of the ceiling and allow 15 to 20 minutes for the water to absorb into the ceiling.


11. Set a large trash can under the section you are working on. Use a plastic scraper to remove the popcorn texture from the ceiling. Allow it to drop into the trash can for easy cleanup and removal.


12. Continue the removal process working in 4-to-6 foot sections until the job is complete.

Tags: remove popcorn, painter tape, plastic sheeting, popcorn ceiling, remove popcorn ceiling, 1-percent asbestos, 1-percent asbestos sample

Decorate A Western Bathroom

Create a Western bathroom with rustic appeal.


While bathrooms are often one of the most used rooms of a home, their decoration is sometimes overlooked. It is important to carry the style of a home throughout its various rooms for a congruent and harmonious look and feel. Many homeowners prefer a more rustic approach to the decors of their homes. By adding Western elements to the bathroom space, the result is a room with rustic visual appeal.


Instructions


1. Paint the walls a rustic color. Western interior decorating often uses a color palette of nature-inspired hues, such as green, tan, brown or gray, with pops of warm colors.








2. Choose a Western-inspired shower curtain. There are many motifs that enhance the overall Western bathroom decor of a space, including horses or cowboys.


3. Hang Western-style towel holders. Buy towel holders with horseshoe motifs, lone star embellishments or cowboy silhouettes.


4. Add thick, thirsty towels in hues to match the color of the walls or one of the colors in the shower curtain. Roll up the towels and display them in woven baskets, or hang them on towel hangers, and tie them with a decorative rope for a Western look and feel.


5. Hang a large mirror over the vanity in a style that reflects the West, such as one with a frame made from weathered barn wood or covered in leather or faux animal hide.


6. Hang Western-style lighting fixtures such as sconces on either side of the vanity or a chandelier hanging from the ceiling. Look for deer antler styles, rawhide skin lampshade or wildlife scenes.

Tags: Hang Western-style, look feel, shower curtain, towel holders, with rustic

Install Tonque & Groove Knotty Pine Ceiling Panels

Homeowners dress up flat, plain drywall or old plaster ceilings with knotty pine paneling boards or planks to add a decorative touch to a home. Knotty pine plank paneling, so named for the visible wood knots scattered about the surface, offers a visually pleasing ceiling covering. Installers fit the tongue side of the planks into the groove side to create a one-piece effect, without gaps or wide, visible seams.


Instructions








1. Climb a stepladder or scaffolding to access the ceiling. Find the ceiling joists with a stud finder and make marks with a pencil at each end of the room indicating the joist location. Extend a chalk line between the marks and snap it to create a long, straight line designating the ceiling joist. Repeat for each stud. Typically, the joists are every 16-inches on-center throughout the ceiling.


2. Put a tube of construction adhesive into a caulking gun, slice off the tip of the adhesive with a utility knife and puncture the inner skin with a nail.


3. Turn the plank over and run wavy lines of adhesive over the back of the plank.


4. Place the first plank on the ceiling, running perpendicular to the ceiling joists, beginning in a corner with the groove edge of the plank facing the wall. Place a 1/4-inch wood shim between the wall and the knotty pine panel. Run your hand over the knotty pine while pressing it against the ceiling.


5. Drive 4d finishing nails through the tongue into the ceiling joist with a hammer at every stud.


6. Place a nail set on top of the nails and hit it with a hammer to set the nails slightly below the tongue's surface.


7. Equip a power drill with a bit slightly smaller than the diameter of the finishing nails. Drill through the plank, 1 inch from the wall, into the ceiling joist. Drive 4d finishing nails through the pilot holes into the joist. Place a nail set on top of the head of the finishing nail and hit it with a hammer to set the nail just below the surface of the knotty pine. Continue down the length of the wall, gluing, shimming, drilling and nailing the knotty pine to the ceiling. Make cuts to the pine prior to installation, as necessary, with a circular saw equipped with a wood-cutting blade.


8. Apply construction adhesive to the back of a knotty pine panel. Slip a knotty pine panel groove into the tongue on the second row, staggering the seams between the two rows. Drive 4d finishing nails through the tongue into the joist. Tap the finishing nails below the surface of the tongue with a nail set and hammer.


9. Continue gluing, fitting tongues into grooves and nailing the knotty pine against the ceiling until the panels cover the surface.

Tags: finishing nails, knotty pine, ceiling joist, Drive finishing, Drive finishing nails

Thursday, April 19, 2012

Decorating Ideas With Bronze

Show off bronze statues with dramatic lighting.


Metallic bronze gives a room a warm, antique look, and is an excellent choice when you want a Victorian or eclectic effect for your home. The use of bronze implies luxury, class and style, and it gives an otherwise plain room a sense of distinction. Chose between dark, antique bronze and newer, highly polished bronze to create a look that can be traditional or modern.


Bronze Statues


Bronze statues add a hint of elegance and class to your décor. Keep a number of small bronze statues on shelves, or commit a larger area to a taller, more dramatic statue. For a house with a Victorian aesthetic, choose statues that are replicas of historical or classical statues. If you are decorating your home with a more modern sensibility, choose abstract bronze statues with smooth, flowing lines and rounded shapes.








Wall Sconces


For a touch of historical class, light your home with bronze wall sconces. Wall sconces provide your home with supplementary lighting while providing the walls with texture and decoration. Use them in rooms where you want an elegant, elaborate look. Wall sconces come in a variety of designs, ranging from elaborately scrolled styles to classic, simple designs that recall Greek columns. Bronze wall sconces also do well as reading lights in the bedroom.


Bronze Backsplash


The kitchen or bathroom can also benefit from a touch of bronze. Add a bronze tile backsplash to the area behind the kitchen or bathroom sink or the stove. Use a smooth bronze backsplash for a clean modern look or an intricately stamped bronze backsplash for a more traditional appearance. In the bathroom, bronze adds warm tones to what is often an otherwise cool area.


Bronze Hardware








For a touch of bronze metal in your home, replace the hardware on your cabinets, drawers and desks with bronze hardware. Bronze handles and knob pulls create a look that is subtly antiquated without looking too old-fashioned. Choose from styles that have scalloped and scrolled edges or styles that are smooth and sleek, creating a more modern look.

Tags: your home, home with, your home with, bronze backsplash, bronze statues, bronze statues with

Wednesday, April 18, 2012

Install A Suspended Ceiling Around A Lally Column

Installing a suspended ceiling is a very easy and economical way to provide areas such as basements and work rooms with a clean fresh look. These areas, however, often have items such as duct work, plumbing and columns which must be worked into the design plans. Fortunately, a suspended ceiling is fairly easy to modify.








Instructions


1. Install an L bracket at the proper height around all exterior walls. Hang the main T braces at 4-foot intervals, then insert the cross T braces to complete the grid. Make certain all hanger wires are tight and the grid-work is level.








2. Install the ceiling tiles in all of the open areas around the Lally column. Turn the tiles at a slight angle and maneuver them above the grid-work. Allow them to gently drop into place. Once all of the tiles are in place the grid-work will be much more secure and firm, allowing you to take better measurements.


3. Measure the opening in the grid-work around the Lally column. Double check all measurements, then transfer those measurements onto a ceiling tile. Set a compass to match the diameter of the Lally column and place it in the center of the markings. Very carefully mark out a circle to match the position of the column.


4. Cut the circle out using the box knife. Attempt to keep the cut as clean and neat as possible. Be very careful when making the cut to keep your hands well back from the blade.


5. Mark a straight line across the tile using the square as your guide. The line should go directly through the center of the circle you have just cut out. Use the box knife to cut along this line and cut the tile into two pieces,


6. Insert the two pieces of tile into the grid-work, aligning the two half circles around the column. Angle the tile slightly to get it above the grid-work, then drop it into place. You may need to trim around the circle cut slightly to get a smooth fit. If so, make very small cuts, then check your fit.

Tags: Lally column, above grid-work, around Lally, drop into, drop into place, into place

Treat Cedar Wood With Oil Or Latex







Western red cedars, known botanically as Thuja plicata, are coniferous evergreen trees whose fragrant, red-brown wood is commonly used as a building material. Because of cedar's beautiful red-brown color, many homeowners choose to forgo opaque paint products in favor of clear or semitransparent stain products that showcase the wood's natural beauty. Choose penetrating oil or oil-based semitransparent stain products for a treatment that soaks deep into the wood. Select semitransparent latex stain products for a non-penetrating, film-like finish.


Instructions








1. Choose oil or stain products that contain water repellent, ultraviolet light blocker and fungicide additives. Purchase a high quality penetrating oil, penetrating oil-based semitransparent stain or non-penetrating latex semitransparent stain to treat your cedar wood.


2. Sand your cedar wood to a smooth finish using an electric or manual hand sander. Wear a face mask to avoid breathing in cedar dust.


3. Protect surrounding surfaces from accidental drips of stain or preservative by laying down cotton or plastic drop cloths.


4. Apply oil or stain to your cedar wood using broad, even brush strokes. For best results, use a high quality, three- or four-inch wide paintbrush when treating your cedar wood. Apply two coats of oil or stain to your cedar wood. Allow the wood to dry completely between coats for best results.


5. Retreat cedar wood treated with penetrating oil products every one to two years. Retreat cedar wood that has been treated with oil-based or latex stain every three to six years.

Tags: your cedar wood, cedar wood, your cedar, semitransparent stain, stain products, best results

Tuesday, April 17, 2012

Install Recessed Lighting In Existing Ceilings

Install Recessed Lighting in Existing Ceilings


Recessed lighting is a great addition to most homes. You can change the appearance of a room by simply changing its lighting. First, decide how you want your new lighting to be used. There are three different types of lighting to choose from. General lighting diffuses the light throughout a broad area, task lighting spotlights a specific area in a room and accent lighting focuses on one specific object, for example a painting or a sculpture.


Instructions


1. Turn off the power source. Always make sure the power is off before tampering with wires.








2. Mark the areas on the ceiling where you want to install the lights. Use a stud finder to locate the ceiling joists and position the lights between the joists where wires are currently running.


3. Lightly trace the circle on your designated spot using the template that comes with the recessed lighting. Using a utility knife, carefully cut out the circle. It is important that the circle is very precise.


4. Locate the electrical wire and gently pull it through the hole, leaving 16 inches of extra cable. If you did not position your lights between joists where wires are running, bring in a wire by running a cable from a power source to a switch box and back through the hole.


5. Wire your lights. Remove the plate from the light's junction box and securely insert a cable into the box. Using wire nuts, strip 1 inch from the wires and clamp them to the wires in the junction box (black to black, white to white, ground to ground). Place wires into the junction box and snap on the cover.


6. Mount the light. Place it into the hole and tightly screw the fixture into place.


7. Add the trim, screw in light bulbs and turn your power source back on.

Tags: power source, between joists, between joists where, Existing Ceilings, Install Recessed, Install Recessed Lighting, joists where

Design Master Bathroom Layouts

Create a detailed plan on graph paper when you're designing a master bathroom.


Designing a master bathroom can be fun if you plan carefully and take all the important factors into consideration. Spend some time thinking about issues such as how much storage and vanity space you need. Using existing plumbing and electrical hookups, windows and doors can save you money. It is worth the effort to begin your project with a detailed plan.


Instructions


1. Check out building regulations in your town, along with any permits that you will need. The building codes may affect elements of your design such as wiring and plumbing.


2. Sketch out your new bathroom on graph paper. Indicate where windows and doors will be, and the general areas where major elements will be located, such as the shower and the vanity. Make note of spots where you will put your lighting and where you will need outlets. Be sure to include space for storage. This is a good time to weigh whether expanding your bathroom is an option. As you progress in your decision-making, make your graph-paper layout more detailed.








3. Select a focal point for your bathroom, such as a high-tech shower with attractive fittings and interesting tile. Consider a double vanity if you share the bathroom with your spouse. Cut out cardboard fixtures that are sized to scale, and add them to your graph-paper layout.


4. Include enough storage space for items like towels and soap. You may be able to take some space from an adjacent closet in the master bedroom for more bathroom storage.


5. Take light from windows and existing fixtures into consideration, and indicate where you need additional lighting. Decide whether you want recessed or track lighting. Finish your layout by deciding where you will put tile, mirrors and shelving.

Tags: where will, your bathroom, detailed plan, graph paper, graph-paper layout, into consideration, master bathroom

Troubleshoot A Wall Switch For A Ceiling Fan

A ceiling fan.


If your ceiling fan stops working and you're fairly certain the fan itself isn't the problem, the next likely culprit is the wall switch. Switches work by interrupting power to the fan, and if a switch goes bad the result will be either that the fan won't turn on or it won't turn off. If it won't turn off, there's no doubt the problem is a bad switch, and you can jump right to Step 5. If the fan won't come on, there are a few other possible causes that you should check first.


Instructions








1. Make sure the fan hasn't just been turned off by a switch on the unit itself. If not, then check the circuit breaker or fuse to see if it's dead. If that's the problem, then turn the circuit breaker back on or replace the fuse; if not, proceed to Step 2.


2. Turn off the power at the circuit break or fuse box that serves the fan. Use your screwdriver to take off the wall switch plate. Test the switch to make sure it's dead by sticking the two prongs of your current tester along the side of the switch, where the two wires are attached. The tester should confirm there's no power.


3. Remove the screws that are holding the switch to the electrical box and pull it out from the wall (but still wired). Visually inspect the switch and the electrical box for signs of black burn marks or damage. If there is obvious damage, skip to Step 5. If there's no obvious damage, proceed to Step 4.


4. Test whether the circuit is getting power by bypassing the switch. Do this by removing the two black wires that are attached to the switch and connecting the wires to one another, using a wire nut and wrapping the connection in electrical tape. (Note: Never connect differently colored wires to one another.) Turn the power back on at the fuse box and see if the fan comes on. If the fan comes on then the problem is a bad switch and you can proceed to Step 5. If the fan doesn't come on, it means the fuse or circuit breaker is bad (even if it doesn't appear to be) and must be replaced.


5. Replace the switch, if the problem isn't the circuit. First double check that the power is turned off at the circuit box. Remove the damaged old switch by unscrewing the wires that are attached to it.


6. Attach the new switch to the existing wires, putting them in the same configuration as they were on the old switch (generally, two black wires connected to two receptor screws on the switch, and one bare copper grounding wire connected to a green grounding screw on the switch). Cover all connections with electrician's tape.


7. Turn on the power and test the switch to make sure it works. If so, turn the power off again and install the switch over the electrical box, tucking the wires inside and mounting the switch with the provided screws. Turn the power back on.

Tags: Turn power, circuit breaker, proceed Step, black wires, obvious damage, power back

Monday, April 16, 2012

Paint Kitchen Ceilings

Painting a kitchen ceiling can revamp the look of the room.


When it comes time to revamp the look of your kitchen, you may be afraid to look up at the old and possibly peeling or cracked paint job on your kitchen ceiling. Painting that area of the kitchen can completely change the look and feel of the room, with darker colors to match the d cor or lighter colors that can really open up the space. Take the time to protect the rest of the room and you'll find that painting the kitchen ceiling is a project well worth the effort.


Instructions


1. Remove everything that you can from the kitchen, including appliances and all moveable furniture. This will ensure that you don't get paint on any of these fixtures.


2. Cover all countertops, as well as the floor, walls and any fixtures that you cannot remove, with plastic sheeting; tape the sheeting in place with painter's tape. This will prevent any drips or spills from ruining the rest of your room.


3. Detach any fixtures from the ceiling, such as ceiling fans or light fixtures. If you cannot detach these, cover them with plastic sheeting and painter's tape as well to keep paint away.








4. Cut in along the joint where the ceiling meets the wall, as well as around any fixtures, with a 2-inch paintbrush dipped in paint. This gets you into corners and against walls where the roller cannot reach.


5. Roll your main body of paint along the ceiling, starting in one corner parallel to the longest wall. Start the roller overlapping the wet edge of the cut-in area by about 1/8 to ¼ inch so that the two areas blend and you don't have a distinct seam between the two.


6. Alternate cutting in and rolling on paint to ensure that you maintain a wet edge between the two sections of paint. This will allow it to blend instead of creating seams between painted areas. Continue until you have covered the entire ceiling, and then let the paint dry overnight.


7. Inspect the painted surface and apply a second coat as necessary to get the appropriate color to cover small imperfections. Use the same procedure, and let the paint dry overnight before removing the coverings.

Tags: kitchen ceiling, This will, ensure that, paint overnight, paint This

Remove Textured "Popcorn" Ceiling

At one time, textured "popcorn" ceilings were a popular finishing touch on new home construction. But after it collects a few years of hard-to-clean dust and, well, just looking outdated, you might decide you want to get rid of it. It is possible for you to undertake this task, but beware that it's a messy job.


Instructions


1. Scrape a little bit of the textured popcorn into a plastic bag and send it to a U.S. Environmental Protection Agency testing laboratory to have it tested for asbestos. If it contains asbestos, you need to hire a professional crew to remove it.


2. Remove all items from the room. Lay a plastic sheet over the entire floor and go up about a foot on all walls. Secure it to the walls with painter's tape. Cover all of the walls with the plastic sheets as well, securing them with painter's tape at the top of the wall. Lay out a layer of resin paper over the floor for additional protection and ease of cleanup.


3. Fill the garden sprayer with water. Spray a small area of the ceiling with the water and let it soak into the popcorn material.








4. Trim off the corners of the putty or joint compound knife with tin snips. Make them into rounded corners to help prevent any gouging of the drywall.


5. Part on protective goggles. Position the stepladder under the moistened area and start scraping the textured popcorn off. You might need to apply a little more water to get stuck-on areas free and clear. Continue this process throughout the entire room.


6. Remove the plastic from the walls and fold it on top of the resin paper on the floor. Roll up the resin paper and place it in trash bags.

Tags: resin paper, textured popcorn, painter tape, walls with, with painter

Friday, April 13, 2012

Ceiling Tile Layout & Installation

Tile ceilings add an extra element to showers.








While some showers only run up the wall to wherever full tile ends around the 7-foot mark, other showers are total enclosures in which the ceiling has tile installed on it as well. Steam showers are the most common type of showers with tiled ceilings, but standard showers can use this feature as well. While the overall principles of installing ceiling tile are the same as wall and floor tile, there are some additional steps to ensure the tile does not fall off and injure someone.


Instructions


1. Prepare the ceiling prior to layout. Mix some thinset in a container according to the instructions on the package, and let it sit for a few minutes to slake. This is the process of the polymers soaking up the water. Remix the thinset and add a little extra water so your thinset is a bit on the runny side of creamy, sort of like pudding or yogurt. Spread a thin layer of this mixture on the ceiling with the flat side of the trowel, and let it dry 24 hours before installing your tile.


2. Decide whether you want to use a straight-lay pattern on the ceiling or a diagonal pattern and lay out the ceiling accordingly. For a ceiling that has joints matching the wall tile, you can simply continue your plumb lines up across the ceiling to continue the grout joints.


3. Find the center point in the ceiling and draw two lines dissecting the center for a diagonal installation. Mark your first line, then use the framing square to make a second line. Match the corners of the tile so the lines intersect the tile for your center diagonal piece.


4. Install the tile. Mix another batch of thinset, this time only mixing it according to the manufacturer's instructions and without extra water. Use the notched side of the trowel to spread thinset onto the back of the tile. Spread the thinset in all directions to ensure complete coverage.


5. Press the piece of tile onto the ceiling and apply firm pressure while you move the tile in all directions to completely adhere the piece to the ceiling. Position it according to your reference lines and repeat the process for each tile. Use tile spacers to help guide the grout joints between tiles.

Tags: ceiling tile, center diagonal, extra water, grout joints, pattern ceiling

Build A Projection Screen

If you want to set up a movie room in your home or have a need for a projection screen at work, your first instinct may be to purchase a projection screen. While you can purchase a projection screen, it is fairly simple to build a projection screen on your own. Building your own projection screen will be much less expensive than purchasing a projection screen. You will not even notice a quality difference in the projection screen that you have built.


Instructions


1. Purchase the wood. Go to a lumber yard or local home improvement store and get four pieces of 1-by-4 inch poplar board. Ask to have two of the boards cut to 55 1/4 inches and to have the other two boards cut to 93 1/2 inches.


2. Get your hardware. At your local home improvement store or hardware store, purchase 24 flat-head wood screws that are 3/4-inch in length and four 6-inch "L" brackets. You will need these to put together your frame later.


3. Prepare the wood. Lay the wood on a flat work surface and cut the ends at a 45-degree angle using a triangle and a wood saw.


4. Purchase 3 yards of black velveteen fabric. Use the fabric scissors to cut the fabric into four strips that are 6 1/2 inches wide. Two of those strips should be 58 inches long. These will be for the sides of the frame. You will need two of the strips to be 96 inches long. These will be for the bottom and top of the frame.








5. Attach the fabric to the wood. On a flat surface, lay out the fabric strips and place the wood sections that correspond to the fabric size on top of each strip. Center the wood on the fabric strips and take the fabric and wrap it around the board. Stretch it tight and staple it in place, leaving around 2 inches of wood visible in the center of each part of the frame. At the 45-degree angles, you will need to trim your fabric ends and then glue the fabric to the wood so that it will stay in place.


6. Join the wood together to make the frame. Take your fabric-covered pieces of wood and lay them out on a flat surface, in a rectangle, face down. Move around the frame, corner by corner, attaching the pieces together with an L bracket and six screws for each corner.








7. Add white seamless paper. You can buy a 53-inch roll of white seamless paper from a local camera supply store. Use white if you do not want to compromise image quality. Roll the paper over your frame. Use the staple gun to attach the paper. Begin at one of the shorter sides of the frame and staple the paper to the exposed wood. Work your way around the frame, applying staples every 10 inches. When you get to the last side of the frame, trim the paper to fit the frame before finishing stapling.

Tags: projection screen, projection screen, will need, around frame, boards inches

Thursday, April 12, 2012

Replace Indoor Recessed Lighting Bulb

Bulbs in recessed light fixtures can be hard to remove.


Recessed lighting adds a modern look to any home. Without bulky fixtures hanging below the ceiling, your room achieves a streamlined look that is appealing to many. Like any light fixture, the light bulb will eventually burn out and need to be replaced. Changing light bulbs in recessed lighting can be tricky because there is generally very little space between the bulb and the fixture itself. This makes it nearly impossible to get your fingers in to unscrew a stuck bulb. However, with a little creativity, you will be able to remove the bulb safely.


Instructions


1. Examine the light bulb and make sure it is cool to the touch. If it just burned out, it is likely still warm and will need to cool to room temperature before you proceed.








2. Tear a 12-inch strip of duct tape. Press the tape firmly to the bottom of the light bulb.


3. Take each end of the tape and fold it down and back toward itself to make a handle to grab onto.


4. Grab the handle between your forefinger and thumb. Turn it counterclockwise to loosen the light bulb. The bulb should loosen in its socket.


5. Grab the bulb and spin it the rest of the way out of the socket.


6. Screw in a replacement bulb of equal wattage. Turn it clockwise to tighten.


7. Turn the recessed light on to see that the new light bulb is operational.

Tags: light bulb, recessed light

Diy Ceiling Beams

Make your own beams for added structural strength.


You can pay a lot for large beams from a home improvement store or you can make your own and save your money. Particularly when you are using beams that are going to be covered by sheathing or ceilings, it doesn't matter what they look like. It matters only that they are as strong as possible. By gluing and nailing together multiple pieces of wood to create laminated beams, you can create structural elements that are just as strong as solid beams costing far more.


Instructions


1. Cut three 2-by-12s to the length you require for your ceiling beam.


2. Lay one 2-by-12 on the floor or on a large work surface. Spread wood glue over the top surface of the beam.


3. Lay another of the 2-by-12s on top of the first. Align the two planks perfectly and tack them together by driving a 2-inch nail into each end. Spread glue over the surface of the second plank.


4. Lay the third plank on top of the second plank. Align it with the two other planks and tack it on with a 2-inch nail at each end.


5. Permanently join the three planks by driving in 4-inch-long nails along the length of the planks. Drive in a row of four nails at the end and continue with rows of four nails at 12 inch intervals. When you are done, turn the assembly over and do the same from the other side, driving these rows of nails into the spaces between the first rows of nails, so that the rows of nails from opposite sides are staggered by 6 inches.

Tags: rows nails, 2-inch nail, four nails, glue over, glue over surface, over surface, second plank

Wednesday, April 11, 2012

Curtain Decorating Tricks To Make A Ceiling Seem Higher

Floor length curtains create an elongated look that helps gives the illusion of higher ceilings.


While the architectural details and structure of your home is impossible to alter without major renovations, the way you decorate a room can help mask elements that you do not like. If you are bothered by low ceilings in your home, the paint or wallpaper colors that you choose for the walls and ceilings can deemphasize the lack of height. However, there are also several decorating tricks with curtains that can give the illusion of higher ceilings in any room without the hassle of painting or hanging wallpaper.


Hang as High as Possible


One of the easiest ways to make your ceiling appear taller is to hang your curtains as high on the wall as possible. Instead of just above your windows, hang curtains from the ceiling or just below the crown molding. Because the curtains start higher up on the wall, they draw the eye upward and give the illusion that the ceiling is higher than it actually is.








Go for Floor Length


When hanging your curtains from the ceiling to give the illusion of greater height, choose floor-length drapes. If you opt for curtains that end just below the windows, you effectively cut the room in half and make the ceiling feel shorter. On the other hand, using floor-to-ceiling curtains creates a long, lean effect that provides a feeling of height and drama so the ceiling doesn't feel quite as low.


Use Vertical Stripes








When trying to make your ceiling appear higher, avoid curtains with horizontal stripes, which actually make a room feel shorter and more compact. Instead, opt for vertical stripes. When stripes run up and down, they draw the eye in the same direction and make the wall appear longer. As a result, the ceiling seems higher and the room feels more spacious.


Avoid Full Curtains


Just as floor-length curtains mounted high on the wall draw the eye upward to give the illusion of taller ceilings, full curtains draw the eye in a horizontal direction and diminish the look of the wall's width. As a result, the ceiling often appears shorter because the entire room seems more compact. When trying to make your ceilings appear higher, avoid curtains that are too full or wide across. In general, ensure that the curtains measure two and a half times the width of the window or less to provide a streamlined look that adds length to the wall and height to the ceiling.


Shorten Valances


Valances can add an attractive decorative touch to any room. However, if they are too large, they can also make your ceiling appear higher because they break up the line of the wall. To give your ceiling added height, shorten your valances so they are 10 inches or less. A smaller valance gives the wall a long, seamless look that makes the ceiling appear taller and the room larger.

Tags: ceiling appear, give illusion, make your, your ceiling, appear higher, curtains that

Aluminum Tree Light Alternatives

Bring modern lighting to your retro Christmas tree.


During the 1960s, trendy homeowners placed newfangled aluminum Christmas trees in picture windows. They hung red, blue, silver, gold and white balls, often in one dominant color, on the silver tree branches. Instead of electrical tree lights, a rotating color wheel illuminated the tree in green, red, yellow or clear light. Today, these color wheels are difficult to find. Aluminum tree light alternatives enable people to decorate with vintage trees of their childhoods.


Modern Spotlights








A 1959 pamphlet from the Aluminum Corporation of America suggested using any color spotlight on the tree, including pink, green, blue, red, amber or anything else you choose. The aluminum mirror effect sets the tone for the finished tree. Experiment with spotlights of any modern type and color to see what you like best on your aluminum tree.


Use glass ornaments of a particular color to reflect the light of clear spotlights onto the aluminum tree mirror-like needles.


Lights in Glass Bricks


The addition of architectural glass bricks around the base of an aluminum Christmas tree brings out even more shine and sparkle. Cover the base and stand of the tree in household aluminum foil, shiny side facing outward. Stack clear glass bricks like those builders use in bathrooms and kitchens around the tree's base. Place several strings of miniature white lights in bunches inside the glass bricks. Arrange them so the wires are concealed behind the glass. Your tree will take on an icy, glowing and even glitzy appearance as it combines present-day technology with vintage tacky to create modern kitsch.


Lights and Mirror


Mass merchandise stores carry inexpensive mirrors of assorted sizes and materials. Even safer, mylar-like plastics provide a mirroring effect. Place a mirror underneath your aluminum Christmas tree and scatter miniature white lights around the aluminum-covered tree base and atop the mirror. Place strands of tinsel or artificial snow underneath to help camouflage light wires. Colored lights give a different effect. The mirror, lights and reflective properties of the tinsel tree branches combine to yield a special holiday glow.


No Lights


Another aluminum tree light alternative is the one decorating guru Martha Stewart adopts. "I have never put electric lights on these trees," says Stewart, writing about her aluminum tree collection. "I don't think my prettily decorated trees need such additional embellishment." Stewart sets trees near other light sources, such as windows, lamps and doorways. She also uses shiny ornaments of all types and shapes, often in monochromatic designs or in two complementary colors.

Tags: aluminum Christmas, Christmas tree, glass bricks, aluminum Christmas tree, aluminum tree

Tuesday, April 10, 2012

Work With Cedar Wood

Cutting into a nice piece of cedar is a joyous experience for a woodworker. The smell that is released, the color, texture and softness of this wood make it fun and easy to work with. It is all of these enjoyable characteristics that lead to some of the challenges when designing a wood piece using cedar. There are easy ways to overcome the limitations associated with this wood by taking a little extra time in design and assembly.


Instructions


Building with Cedar


1. Design your cedar wood projects making proper allowances for shrinkage, expansion and contraction. Allowing for a slightly thicker stock of cedar will provide the needed strength to overcome the softer wood characteristics.


2. Determine the grade of cedar lumber that is appropriate for your project. According to the Western Red Cedar Lumber Association, there are specific uses of different grades of Cedar.


3. Pre-drill all holes for fasteners that will carry any significant loads. Pre-drilling the holes for the fasteners will create uniform round holes that distribute the loads where pieces are joined together.


4. Use nuts and bolts with washers to hold components together. The compressive action of a nut and bolt compared to using a wood screw add the holding power required to overcome the significant expansion and contraction of cedar.


5. Use high grade wood glue along with the nut and bolts at all joints. Most high grade wood glues actually penetrate into the surface of the wood and it is this action that helps to counteract the soft wood characteristics of rapid expansion and contraction.

Tags: expansion contraction, grade wood, high grade, high grade wood, holes fasteners

Are Ceiling Fans Good For Rooms With High Ceilings

A tall ceiling doesn't mean you can't use a ceiling fan.








Vaulted, angled or other high ceilings are a bit of a challenge when trying to decorate the area. Ceilings fans are functional as well as decorative and many come with light fixtures.The fans add air circulation in the room and help save on your utility bill in the summer and even the cold weather months. Installing a ceiling fan with the proper mounting and at the right height ensures this type of savings.


Mounting Equipment


Many types of mounts are available for different types of ceilings. Angled or vaulted ceilings require a sloped mount. Extended mounts allow the consumer to extend the ceiling fan down from the high ceiling so it is low enough to provide adequate air circulation. The downrods for extendable mounts range in heights from 6 to 120 inches.


Height for Best Air Circulation


Positioning the fan so that it is 8 or 9 feet from the floor area is ideal for the optimal airflow. The air circulation cools the people in the room, but not the space. Therefore, you should turn off the fan when exiting the room to save energy costs. During the winter, fan blades can be reversed on some models. This forces the warm air up to the ceiling and results in a downdraft to warm the occupants of the room.


Aesthethic Value


High ceilings can make a room appear cavernous and resemble a warehouse space. Using an extended mount and a downrod to hang a ceiling fan, visually lowers the ceiling, thus creating a cozier setting in the space. The presence of a low-hanging ceiling fan guides the eye downward and away from the expanse of the ceiling.


Length of Downrod








Determining the right length for your downrod is a bit tricky. For instance, a ceiling fan that is 15 feet in height may look imposing if the ceiling fan is 9 feet below it. Generally, for a 9 foot ceiling choose a downrod of 6 to 12 inches. Ten foot high ceilings work best with a downrod that is approximately 12 to 18 inches. One and a half to 2 feet downrods look appropriate with an 11 foot ceiling height. A 12 foot ceiling needs at least a 2 foot to 30 inch length downrod. Thirteen feet high ceilings look best with 30 to 36 inch downrods and one that is 36 to 48 inches is appropriate for a 14 feet high ceiling. Forty-eight to 60 inches is perfect for ceilings that are 15 feet in height, according to the Ceiling Fans 'N' More website.

Tags: foot ceiling, that feet, best with, Ceiling Fans, feet height, feet high

Paint Clouds On A Ceiling

Michelangelo painted a ceiling and you can too! Here's create an airy, cloud-filled room.


Instructions


1. Remove or cover furniture and put down a drop cloth.


2. Paint the ceiling blue and let it dry. See "Paint a Ceiling" for directions.


3. Pour white paint into a roller tray.


4. Holding a sponge flat, dip it into the paint.


5. Dab the paint-filled sponge on the ceiling.


6. Make clouds in a free-form shape. You may want to have some pictures of clouds on hand for reference.


7. Use more paint in the center of the cloud, and less paint as you move out toward the edges.


8. Leave some areas of blue showing through the white for a light, transparent look.


9. Make clouds of different sizes.


10. Cover the ceiling evenly, but randomly, with clouds.

Tags: Make clouds

Monday, April 9, 2012

Prime Plaster

The plaster must be primed before it is painted to achieve a long-lasting finish.


New plaster sets as a very porous surface which means that when paint is applied to it, the paint's moisture is sucked straight out. It drys so quickly, the paint has no chance to anchor itself to the wall, it has no "roots" and will soon begin to peel and flake away, ruining the finish. So in order to paint on plaster it is vital to prime the surface first.


Instructions


When and Apply a Water-Based Primer


1. You will need to dilute your water-based paint for use as your primer.


Priming plaster you intend to finish with a water-based paint such as matte or emulsion requires you to seal the surface with a diluted version of your chosen paint. Mix your chosen matte or emulsion paint in a container with water by using a stick to stir the substances together. Quantities of four parts paint to one part water should be used. This dilution will be thinner then the paint is and will allow for the porous plaster to suck the mix into its holes, sealing them off.








2. Apply the mix to the walls using a roller or paint brush. Sometimes it is possible to hear the plaster taking in the mixed paint. If you are worried the dilution is not being absorbed into the plaster, the mix can be further diluted by adding more water up to a point of one part paint to one part water; this makes the mix thinner and easier for the plaster to suck in, which is what results in a good seal.


3. Painting a second coat of the sealant onto the wall may be required.


When and Apply an Oil-Based Primer


4. Priming a surface for an oil-based paint like egg shell or gloss requires the use of an alkaline resistant sealant. Using a mix of water and PVA solution is ideal in these circumstances. Stir together water with PVA adhesive in quantities on one part water to four parts PVA adhesive.


5. Paint the solution onto the plaster with a roller or paint brush; the mix will be sucked into the plaster's pores and will withstand the application of the oil-based paint.


6. The plastered wall is now ready for painting.


Apply a second coat of the mix if needed.


Priming Plaster For Wallpaper


7. Plaster must be sealed before wallpaper can be fixed.


Wallpapering over plaster also requires the surfaces to be sealed. Purchase a product called "size" from your local home improvement store.


8. Mix the size with water as advised on the label.


9. Apply it to the wall with a roller or paint brush then wait for it to dry before papering.








10. Diluting wallpaper paste with water can be used as a substitute for size.

Tags: paint brush, part water, roller paint, roller paint brush, with water

Paint Clean Edges From Wall To Ceiling

Clean edging makes your painted walls neater.


As you paint interior walls, you'll face corners and edges that require careful painting. Because ceilings and walls often have different colors, when you paint a wall, you must create a clean edge along the upper corner of the wall where it intersects with the ceiling. Use a sash brush to paint clean edges from wall to ceiling, and create walls with neat and attractive paint.


Instructions


1. Cover the floor beneath the painting area with tarps to prevent drips.


2. Position the stepladder at one edge of the wall. Place the paint at the top of the stepladder to eliminate the need to climb up and down the ladder -- look for a hook for hanging the paint can from the extending shelf at the top of the ladder.


3. Dip the sash brush into the paint approximately halfway. Remove excess paint from the bristles by tapping the brush lightly on the side of the can.


4. Position the edge of the bristles so they snug up against the point where the ceiling intersects the wall -- about 1/16 inch away from the ceiling. Touch the bristles to the wall and paint straight down about 4 inches.


5. Reposition the brush bristles up at the wall and ceiling corner again immediately beside the point where you already applied paint and make another vertical swipe straight down.


6. Make about 12 inches of vertical paint swipes, then go back and make a horizontal swipe with the paintbrush about 1/4-inch away from the upper edge of the wall across the vertical swipes. Make a second horizontal swipe immediately under the first one.








7. Repeat the same process across the entire wall, working in 12-inch-long sections until you finish painting a clean edge along the top of the wall.


8. Paint the main portion of the wall with a paint roller.

Tags: about inches, away from, bristles wall, clean edge, clean edge along, edge along

Friday, April 6, 2012

Decorate The Ceiling In A Bathroom

Decorating a bathroom ceiling can be a fun project.


Ceilings are often seen by decorators as an additional wall to decorate and add visual interest to any room in a home. The design of a ceiling area creates visual illusions, such as making a low ceiling feel higher, enhancing the interior design of a room and giving the space a visual focal point. Bathrooms are rooms in which a ceiling may not be an element that is often decorated, but its design is equally important in the overall look and feel of the space. Using a few decorator tips, creating a decorated bathroom ceiling can be easy and fun.


Instructions


1. Paint the ceiling a dark color. A dark ceiling visually creates a bathroom ceiling decor in which the ceiling appears lower. This type of paint treatment is suitable for an unusually high ceiling that you want to recede.


2. Apply light color paint to the ceiling. Bathroom ceilings that are painted in a light color give the illusion of a higher ceiling and make the space feel larger. This technique is particularly useful in a home with low ceilings, such as a mobile home, and is a way to create a feeling of spaciousness.


3. Affix aluminum ceiling tiles to the ceiling. Tin or aluminum tiles add a vintage quality to any ceiling. This type of treatment requires good ventilation, with an exhaust fan, to prevent condensation on the tiles, but is a good option when the surface of the ceiling is less than desirable because the tiles cover up the actual ceiling space.








4. Paint stripes on the ceiling. To create a bathroom ceiling that adds interest and drama, paint large stripes on the ceiling, using 2 complimentary colors of paint, and painter's masking tape, for a design that draws the eye up and makes the space feel higher and larger.


5. Add beadboard panels to the ceiling. Beadboard, or wood panels that have thin grooves, is suited to bathrooms where you want a seaside, shabby-chic or country cottage decor. Paint the bathroom ceiling beadboard white, stain it, or leave it rough, depending on the desired decor of the room for a space with visual interest and style.


6. Augment your rustic bathroom ceiling decor with earthy, rough faux beams. These wonderful natural-looking beams are very lightweight, which makes them easy to handle, and they add visual depth to your bathroom ceiling.

Tags: bathroom ceiling, bathroom ceiling decor, ceiling decor, ceiling that, feel higher, light color, space feel