Make Oilrubbed Bronze

Oil-rubbed bronze finish lends sophistication to door fixtures.

There are several processes available for changing a bright and brash brass finish on a lighting, bath or kitchen fixture to an oil-rubbed bronze finish. Some of the available products include the Rub 'n Buff in Spanish copper, Liver of Sulphur solution or Brass Darkening Solution. These will change the over bright finish found on most brass fixtures into the darkened, rich, old world look provided by the oil-rubbed bronze look. The patina of the oil rubbed-bronze finish looks more expensive and adds a greater degree of depth to the bath or kitchen than the typical bright yellow "builder's brass" finish.

Instructions

1. Try to ensure that the brass fixture is truly brass rather than electroplate or plastic. Plastic produces a dull thud sound when tapped with the finger or with a metal object. Electroplate is harder to spot and may require looking up the manufacturer on the Internet to investigate any manufacturing process information located on the website.

2. Remove any clear coat or protective finish from the fixture with a few drops of lacquer thinner on a clean, cotton cloth. Rub the lacquer thinner with the cloth in small circles all over the fixture until you remove all the clear shiny finish.

3. Move the project to a well-ventilated area, such as a back porch or open outside area, spread newspaper down under the fixture to protect the work surface and put on rubber protective gloves.

4. Apply one of the three finish solutions to the fixture, according to the manufacturer's instructions, and allow the piece to dry, also in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.

5. Finish the project by spraying the fixture with a clear, protective spray paint to protect the new oil-rubbed bronze finish.

Tags: bronze finish, bath kitchen, brass finish, fixture with, lacquer thinner, manufacturer instructions

Decorate The Master Bath

Decorate the Master Bath

It is very easy to overlook the master bath when it comes to decorating. After all, few people see the master bathroom. Still, it will make you happier and make your home more complete if you take the time to decorate your master bath. Here are some tips you can use.

Instructions

1. Paint your master bathroom. Choose a relaxing color for your bathroom. You can choose a pastel version of the color in the adjoining room, or choose a soothing green or relaxing beige or yellow. These colors will allow you to unwind at the end of your day and to start your day off in a good mood. For a truly luxurious bathroom, you can add a texture or stencil effect to your bathroom walls as well.

2. Choose your rugs carefully. You will want to add an area rug or several rugs to give your feet a luxurious feel. You do however; need to make sure you pick rugs that will dry quickly as they are sure to get wet. Stick to light colors that will add to the relaxing nature of the room.

3. Add storage to your master bath. Bathrooms tend to collect lots of clutter from toiletries and such. This can make the bathroom unattractive. For this reason, you should make adding storage solutions to your bathroom an important part of decorating. Add sliding wire baskets below your sinks, and organize an adjoining or nearby closet to keep the clutter out of your bathroom.

4. Add a pretty bench when decorating your master bath. It is nice to have somewhere besides the cold edge of a tub to sit and tend to your legs and feet and to put on your clothing. Choose a simple bench that is simple and does not take up too much space, but is also comfortable. It should have waterproof fabric as well.

5. Consider adding a TV and telephone. If you plan to spend a good amount of time in your master bath, you may want install a flat screen television to your bathroom to keep you entertained, and a telephone to eliminate the need to make mad dash for the telephone.

6. Add accessories to your bathroom. Don’t forget to add wall art to your master bathroom. You will want to make sure it is framed well so that moisture will not harm it, or get something like iron grills or relief sculptures that moisture will not hurt. For another level of luxury, be sure to add live plants and scented candles.

Tags: your bathroom, your master, master bath, your master bath, master bathroom, Decorate Master

Use Pine Box Car Siding On The Ceiling

Pine box car siding makes a beautiful ceiling treatment.

Box car siding is a term used to describe any of several varieties of 1-by-6 and 1-by-8 pine tongue and groove siding products. Some are smooth, while others feature "beadboard" style detail lines down the center and slightly rounded edges. The installation procedure for all of these materials is essentially the same and follows a pattern similar to install tongue and groove siding or flooring in other applications. One major distinction between box car siding and newer types of tongue and groove is the absence of end joints, common in hardwood floor materials. Ends are usually butted up to the piece before for a clean, simple joint that is supported by staggering the end joints from row to row.

Instructions

1. Use a pry bar to remove any crown molding around your ceiling. Use locking pliers to pull the nails through the rear of the molding to preserve the face and set it aside to be reinstalled.

2. Turn off the power to any light fixtures on the ceiling where the paneling will be installed at the circuit breaker. Remove the screws mounting the fixture to the junction box and twist off the wire nuts to disconnect the wiring. Set the fixture aside to be reinstalled. Also remove ceiling vents grilles and other obstructions.

3. Use a stud finder to locate the ceiling joists above your ceiling. Depress the buttons on both sides of the device and run it along the ceiling parallel to the longest wall. Mark every spot the finder beeps and flashes, indicating the presence of a framing member. Do the same along the opposite wall. Use a chalk line to mark the length of the joists from the marks on one side to the marks on the other. The lines will be 24 inches apart. In some newer construction, they may be 16 inches apart.

4. Start installation along the longest wall in the space. Position a full length lank of siding, spaced 1/4 inch from the wall, with the tongue side out and the groove toward the wall. Space the end 1/4 inch from the wall at the corner. Drive a 2 inches long finish head screw up through the siding into the first joist, as indicated by the chalk line, out from the wall. Drive one screw up through the siding into each joist. Drive the screws in until the heads are just past the face of the siding.

5. Butt the next piece up to the open end of the first and screw it against the ceiling in the same way. Add one screw into each joist down the length of the board. Continue adding full length planks as far as possible. Measure and cut a plank to fit from the last full piece to 1/4 inch from the far wall and screw it into place.

6. Start the second row using the off-cut piece from the end of the first row. This will space the joints between the ends of the boards to stagger them between rows. Fit the plank with its grooved edge against the tongue on the outside edge of the first row. Tap the board up snug to the first row with a wood block and hammer so that the groove covers the tongue. Screw the plank into place as in the first row.

7. Add planks, butting them up to the one before as you did in the first row. Cut a piece to fit at the wall as you did before. Continue adding full width rows of siding across the ceiling as far as possible. Measure and cut pieces to fit around light fixtures junctions and other obstructions with a jig saw.

8. Measure from the last full row to the wall and cut enough siding to width to fill the gap, leaving 1/4 inch against the wall. Screw the last row in place as before. Realign the crown molding to the wall and nail it in place with a pin nail gun -- one nail every 8 inches -- to cover the gap next to the wall.

9. Match the wires by color and replace the wire nuts on your light fixtures to reconnect them. Use longer mounting screws if needed and reattach the fixture to the junction box. Use longer screws for any vent grilles as well.

Tags: from wall, inch from, inch from wall, light fixtures, tongue groove, adding full

Protect Old Tins

Before mass production of cardboard and plastic storage containers, people stored perishable items, such as coffee, spices, candy, tobacco and talcum powder, in painted and labeled tin containers. These tin containers, commonly referred to as "old tins," "vintage tins" or "antique tins," have become extremely collectible. In addition, people continue to use old tins for storage of perishable items sealed in plastic bags and nonperishable items. The most common damage that old tins suffer is surface etching, design or label cracking and peeling, and metal corrosion from moisture.

Instructions

1. Take any suspected antique tins of value to an antique/vintage tin specialist before cleaning or storing as some tins have labels or other markings that with removal would decrease value. If you own valuable tins, follow any instructions given to you by the specialist for preserving the tins.

2. Clean any old tins that don't require special cleaning or preservation as the dirt, oil and/or bacteria on the tins can cause damage to the paint and metal over time. Mix a mild dish detergent with warm water, and then swish a soft microfiber cloth in the water to make the cloth soapy. Squeeze out as much excess water as possible, and then gently wash the tins. Wipe off any soap residue with a damp microfiber cloth.

3. Dry your tins inside and outside--sides, bottoms, lids and latches--with dry, soft cloths. Wrap a single layer of cloth over the head of a small, flat-headed screwdriver, and rub the cloth into any seams or joint pieces to absorb as much moisture as possible as the seams can corrode quickly if not dried completely.

4. Set your old tins aside in a room with a dehumidifier turned on to absorb any moisture remaining on the tins from cleaning.

5. Store or show your tins in rooms that don't normally experience fluctuations in temperature or moisture levels. Keep your tins out of kitchens and bathrooms as these rooms experience rapid changes in temperature and moisture as well as increased moisture that can break down painted/printed tin designs and corrode metal. In addition, store or show your tins in shaded rooms as sunlight can crack or peel paint. As with drying washed tins, use dehumidifiers to keep moisture levels low.

Tags: your tins, antique tins, microfiber cloth, moisture levels, perishable items, show your, show your tins

Mount Mirrors On The Ceiling

Mirrors on the ceiling add space to a room.

Mirrors add the illusion of space to a room. Adding mirrors to a hallway makes it look longer or wider, just as adding mirrors to a wall makes a room look bigger. Therefore, adding mirrors to a ceiling would also make a room seem larger. This is not as easy a task as hanging a wall mirror, but it will liven up any room. Whether in the living room or the bedroom, a ceiling mirror will bring character to the room.

Instructions

Hanging Ceiling Mirror

1. Purchase the mirror and mirror mount from a home remodeling supply store. The mount is a metal bar that attaches to a stud or wall anchors in the ceiling. From this bar, chains will attach to the mirror.

2. Choose the room and the section of the ceiling desired. Make sure the place chosen has a stud, or wall anchors will be needed.

3. Place the mirror mount on the ceiling in the place chosen. Drill screws into a stud or wall anchors through the mount.

4. Attach the mirror to the mount by hooking the chains to the eye hooks on the back of the mirror.

Tiled Ceiling Mirror

5. Tiled ceilings allow for easy exchanges between mirrored or not.

Measure the tiles currently in the ceiling.

6. Purchase mirror tiles of the same size from a home remodeling supply store.

7. Remove the current tiles and replace them with mirror tiles. Mirror tiles are created specifically for ceiling placement. They are lightweight to remain safely on the thin metal of tile frames.

Direct to Ceiling Mounting

8. Purchase lightweight mirrors of the desired size from a home remodeling supply store. Glassless mirrors are best for bedroom ceilings. Do not attach a mirror directly to Sheetrock, stucco or tiled ceilings.

9. Clean the ceiling and allow it to dry.

10. Measure the mirror and mark the exact space on the ceiling.

11. Apply silicone adhesive to the back of the lightweight mirror. Silicone adhesive comes in a small bucket found at any hardware store and works for all materials, including mirror and wood.

12. Attach the mirror to the ceiling. The silicone needs an hour to set. Cloth covered poles, gently placed along the mirror, work well to hold the mirror in place while the adhesive sets.

Tags: from home, from home remodeling, home remodeling, home remodeling supply, mirror mount, remodeling supply, remodeling supply store

Mask The Edges Around A Popcorn Ceiling

Mask the Edges Around a Popcorn Ceiling

Prep work often is the most time consuming part of a paint job. However, taking the time to carefully prepare a room before it is painted is essential to ensuring a professional quality paint job. Prep work takes time, but in the long run, makes the time spent much more efficient and effective. Popcorn ceilings are textured ceilings. The granular material that produces the popcorn effect, is mixed with the paint. Taping around the edges of a popcorn ceiling prevents the textured material from dripping on the wall when you paint the ceiling.

Instructions

1. Remove furniture and other items from the room. It is much easier to tape the edges of the ceiling in an empty room

2. Tape the edges where the ceiling and wall meet with blue painter's tape or masking tape. Blue painter's tape is easier to remove once the paint job is completed. Place the tape on the wall. Start in one corner and work your way around the room. Hold the roll of tape up to the line where the ceiling and the wall meet. Slowly unroll the tape, pressing it into the line with your fingers. Go over the tape with a putty knife, firmly pressing the tape into the edge between the wall and ceiling. This provides extra security.

3. Tape around the edges all the light fixtures in the ceiling with blue painter's tape or masking tape. If vents and electrical covers on the ceiling are not easily removed, tape around their edges as well.

4. Carefully remove the tape after the ceiling has been painted. It is best to remove the tape before the ceiling is thoroughly dried. Start at the corner of one wall and work towards the opposite corner. Don't go fast because it is possible to pull the edges of the new paint off with the tape. Pull the tape very slowly. Hold the edge of the tape between the index finger and thumb of one hand while lightly pressing the tape against the wall with the other hand. The added pressure helps the tape to come off without damaging the paint job.

Tags: painter tape, around edges, Around Popcorn, Around Popcorn Ceiling, blue painter tape

Measure Your Own Suspended Ceiling

A suspended, or dropped, ceiling is a full ceiling that is built beneath the actual ceiling of a building. Many office buildings have suspended ceilings, for example, and place heating and air-conditioning ductwork in the space between the two ceilings. Measure a suspended type of ceiling as you would an actual ceiling, but also measure between the two ceilings if you need to place ductwork or electrical elements there.

Instructions

1. Measure the length of the suspended ceiling. Place a tape measure, yardstick, meter stick or other type of measuring device at one end of the ceiling and measure across to the other side.

2. Measure the width of your suspended ceiling. Place your measuring instrument at the other end of your ceiling and measure across to the other side. You could also measure the ceiling by measuring the walls that connect to it.

3. Find the distance between the suspended ceiling and the actual ceiling above it. This will require you to remove one of the ceiling tiles and may require the use of a ladder. Typically, this distance is about 1 foot, though it could be more or less depending on the type of building (for example, a home versus an office building or retail space). You may need to know this information if you're planning to have ductwork installed.

4. Multiply the length by the width of your suspended ceiling to find its square footage. This is useful if you are planning to replace tiles with those of a different size. Estimate how many ceiling tiles you will need (if your tiles aren't 1 square foot in size) by dividing the width of your ceiling by the width of the tiles. Next, divide the length of your ceiling by the length of the tiles. This will give you an indication of how many rows and columns of tiles you would need to purchase. Tiles placed near the point where your ceiling meets the wall likely will have to be cut to fit. You may also need square footage information if you're painting the ceiling and need to calculate how much paint to buy.

5. Find the square footage of a suspended ceiling that is not rectangular by diving it into smaller shapes and calculating the square footage of those shapes. For example, if your room (and by association, your ceiling) is "L" shaped, you can break that shape down into two rectangles. Measure the length and width of each rectangular portion of the ceiling and multiply those dimensions to find the square footage. Add the square footage calculations for each section together to find the total square footage of your ceiling.

Tags: square footage, your ceiling, actual ceiling, suspended ceiling, width your

What Causes Ceiling Paint To Peel

You need to figure out why your ceiling paint is peeling before you can repaint it.

Peeling ceiling paint can be frustrating, especially if you are not sure why the paint is peeling. While there are certain things that can cause any paint to fail, ceiling paints are subject to unique conditions. Air at the ceiling level is warmer and contains more moisture. Older homes may also have problems with special paints that were used in early 20th-century construction techniques. Once you figure out the cause of the peeling, you can take steps to ensure it won't happen again after you repaint it.

Moisture

Moisture can penetrate beneath the paint and cause the paint to crack and peel. Moisture can come from a variety of sources, including humidifiers, hot tubs, cooking, showering and doing laundry. A poorly insulated attic can also lead to ceiling moisture problems. Installing exhaust fans in your attic, kitchen and bathroom can help reduce the moisture problem. Identify and correct the cause of the moisture before attempting to correct the peeling ceiling.

Surface Preparation

If the paint is peeling from a previous layer of paint, the problem is probably caused by something in the surface that is preventing the paint from binding. This can be prevented by properly preparing the surface. Clean the surface to remove any dirt or grease. Next, use a good-quality primer, especially if you're not sure what type of paint was used on the ceiling in the past. Primers are designed to adhere to both the surface and to any additional paint layers. If you attempt to apply oil-based paint over a layer of latex paint without using a primer, the paint will peel.

Painting Time

Most primers have specific "recoat times" that you must follow, or the paint will peel. The recoat time is the amount of drying time the primer needs before it can be painted. Some primers also have a "critical recoat time" or "maximum recoat time." This is the amount of time during which the primer will stick to the paint. After this time, the primer loses its ability to adhere to the paint. This time varies, depending on the primer.

Calcimine

If you live in an older home that was built in the late 1800s or early 1900s, the problem is most likely due to calcimine paint. Calcimine paint was commonly used during this time because it dried fast and was easy to use. It is made from calcium carbonate, a chalky powder that causes paint to blister and peel off. Your only option is to remove the calcimine, using water, TSP and steam, and then repaint the ceiling.

Tags: paint peeling, recoat time, also have, cause paint, especially sure

Alternatives To Suspended Ceiling Panels

There are many ceiling options.

While suspended ceiling panels may be convenient in terms of installation and repair, they do drop the height of the ceiling a significant amount and they are not the most attractive ceiling option. Fortunately, plenty of alternatives to this type of ceiling material exist. If you have a suspended ceiling, you never know what may be underneath, just waiting for a little renovation.

Drywalled Ceilings

Drywalled ceilings are very common and offer a nice, smooth surface. These panels must be screwed into ceiling joists for stability and safety. This type of ceiling surface can be used to cover over a textured ceiling, so long as the drywall screws are long enough to penetrate through the drywall and into the joists -- typically 3-inch drywall screws are sufficient for this job. Drywall is relatively inexpensive and easy to install, requiring only tape and mud to finish the job.

Tongue and Groove Ceilings

This type of ceiling requires special tongue and groove panels that are made out of wood or sometimes even a plastic material. They are laborious to install as each piece has to be finished or painted separately and then nailed into place over the ceiling joists. It is preferable to drywall for many, however, as the panels weigh much less. This type of ceiling requires regular cleaning, especially if it is the plastic variety, which can easily catch dust.

Exposed Beam Ceilings

Exposed beam ceilings hearken back to a more rustic time and a simplified style of building. In this case, the ceilings joists are visible. Exposed beam ceilings can be beautiful if the wood of the beams is stained and covered with a high-gloss polyurethane coat, or they can simply be left bare for a very rustic look. This style of ceiling is very common in log cabins and lodge-style homes, but is not normally seen in ranch or traditional-style homes where ceilings are lower, typically in the range of 7 to 9 feet in height.

Plaster Ceilings

Plaster ceilings are rare today, but prior to 1950, they were the norm. In older homes, lath strips were laid down first. Three successive coats of plaster were then applied over this surface. Plaster is a very hard building material and dries to an attractive textured finish that can be painted. The downside is that plaster does not move or give as a house shifts or settles. Seasonal temperature changes and regular building shifts can cause unsightly cracks to appear which must be patched on a regular basis.

Tags: type ceiling, This type ceiling, ceiling joists, ceiling requires, drywall screws

Hunter Retro Ceiling Fan Specifications

A ceiling fan is an excellent addition to a home that can add both economic and aesthetic value to just about any room. Ceiling fans churn and circulate the air in a room, meaning you do not have to run central heating and air conditioning as much in order to cool down a room. Hunter's line of retro-themed kitchen and house appliances includes ceiling fans that are both economic and a throwback to times past.

Size

The main part of the fan to which all the blades attach measures 9.19 inches. With blades attached, the center of the fan to the edge of the blade is just under 14 inches, meaning the entire fan from one blade tip to the other is around 28 inches. The top part of the fan assembly that physically attaches to your ceiling measures in at 7.7 inches.

Power Usage

With the fan running and the light turned off, the ceiling fan uses approximately 75 watts of electricity. The fan uses two 60-watt bulbs, so you can approximate that with both light bulbs illuminated, electricity usage approaches closer to 200 watts. These calculations are for when the fan is set to the 'high' speed setting; electricity usage diminishes on lower speed settings.

Airflow

Airflow in consumer products is generally calculated in terms of cubic feet per minute (cfm). Essentially, the amount in square feet of air that the fan can move in one minute. Cfm is an important and often overlooked factor in purchasing a ceiling fan. The cfm of the Hunter Retro Ceiling Fan is 5,932.

Airflow Efficiency

Airflow Efficiency compares the airflow of a fan the the electricity usage that airflow requires by dividing the airflow in cfm by the electricity usage in watts. This gives an approximation of the overall electrical efficiency of the fan. The airflow efficiency rating of the Hunter Retro is 79, a rating usually only seen in much larger fans.

Tags: electricity usage, Hunter Retro, Airflow Efficiency, airflow electricity, airflow electricity usage, both economic, Hunter Retro Ceiling

Interior Design Ideas For A Small Bathroom

Clear glass enclosures help a small bathroom appear larger.

Small bathrooms require certain interior design techniques to make the room appear larger. Although your small bathroom may already have major fixtures such as bathtubs, showers, toilets and sinks in place, you can integrate other elements to make the existing space seem larger.

Glass

Incorporating glass elements into a small bathroom allows you to see a large amount of the bathroom, which makes it feel bigger. Replacing shower curtains with a clear glass door lets you see the back of the shower when you are in the bathroom, increasing the perceived depth of the area. Glass is an ideal enclosure for both bathtub and shower combinations and shower stalls. You can install sliding glass doors over the side of the bathtub and shower combination, or replace a solid shower stall with a glass enclosure and swing-open door. If your bathroom is too small to accommodate a swinging door, you can leave a small part of the glass enclosure open as an entryway and reposition the shower head so it does not spray near the opening.

Consider using glass for shelving and even a floating countertop. You can use etched glass instead of clear glass as long as some light penetrates. Allowing light to easily infiltrate the room through semi-transparent design pieces opens up a small bathroom.

Mirrors

Placing mirrors along one of the bathroom walls opens up bathroom space by reflecting other features in the room. A mirror does not allow you to see the solid wall behind it, and therefore your eyes are tricked into thinking the space is infinite. You can cover an entire wall with a mirror or use a large mirror over the sink.

Furniture Details

Small bathrooms do not have a large amount of space for placing decorations, so you need to incorporate decorative details into the existing fixtures. Choose a sink and vanity combination with ornate details or a floating etched glass countertop with a unique sink to add decorative elements to a small bathroom.

Designing with Tile

Using colorful tile along the shower wall is another way to add decorative details to a bathroom without taking up a large amount of room. You can continue the tile to the floor for the same effect.

Tags: small bathroom, large amount, appear larger, bathtub shower, clear glass, decorative details, etched glass

Install A Bathroom Ceiling Light Heater Fan

Many home bathrooms come with an exhaust fan to remove moisture from the buildup of steam. In addition to an exhaust fan, a bathroom may have a heater fan or a unit that combines a heater fan and a ceiling light. If your bathroom is cold or drafty, you may benefit from replacing an existing exhaust fan with a bathroom heater fan that includes a ceiling light.

Instructions

1. Turn off the circuit to the bathroom from the breaker box.

2. Remove the old exhaust fan from the ceiling. Remove the lightbulbs and the wiring cover from the old exhaust fan.

3. Disconnect any electrical wires that are present and then remove any screws that were used to secure the unit to the ceiling joist.

4. Go into the attic or crawl space to where the exhaust fan is located.

5. Remove the electrical cable and clamp from the old exhaust fan.

6. Remove the flexible air duct from the exhaust fan. You may need to use a screwdriver to loosen screws if a clamp was used.

7. Remove any screws that were used to secure the exhaust fan to the ceiling joists and then take out the unit.

8. Go back down to the bathroom and install the new heater fan.

9. Place the unit in the hole in the ceiling and secure it to the ceiling joist. Use a screwdriver or power drill to secure the screws to the joist.

10. Connect the electrical wires following the instructions that came with the unit.

11. Go back into the attic and secure the unit to the ceiling joist using a power drill. Attach the flexible air duct and secure it to the heater fan by tightening the screw on the clamp.

12. Insert the lightbulbs in the sockets on the heater fan.

13. Turn on the circuit breaker from the breaker box and then test the heater fan and lights to make sure the unit is working properly.

Tags: ceiling joist, from exhaust, electrical wires, flexible duct, from breaker, into attic

Size A Mastercool

Mastercool evaporative coolers provide efficient and cost-effective cooling for homes in hot, dry areas. Unlike air conditioner units whose capacity is measured in British Thermal Units (BTUs), coolers are measured in cubic feet per minute (CFM). Whether sizing a unit to cool a single room or an entire house, the calculations are the same. The area to be cooled must be calculated in cubic feet to determine what size cooler is needed.

Instructions

1. Measure the width and length of the space to be cooled. Multiply the two numbers together.

2. Measure the height of the ceiling. Multiply the product of the calculation in Step 1 with the measured height of the ceiling.

3. Divide the product of the calculation in Step 2 by 2. This value is the CFM required to cool the space.

Tags: calculation Step, cubic feet, height ceiling, product calculation, product calculation Step

Repair A Chain Pull Light Fixture

Repair a Chain Pull Light Fixture

Repairing a chain pull light fixture can be intimidating if you have never worked with electricity. But there is nothing to fear with this do-it-yourself project if done correctly. As long as the power is cut to the fixture there is no danger. And instead of paying an electrician a tidy sum, spend a buck or two and about 30 minutes for a new pull chain.

Instructions

1. Switch off the circuit breaker or, if your have an older home, pull out the fuse that allows electricity to reach the light fixture. Remove the bulb and use a touch-type voltage tester to ensure power is cut. Insert the tester into socket and look for a light or beep from the tester.

2. Unscrew the mounting screws holding the fixture to the mounting bracket in the ceiling.

3. Locate the wires connecting the light fixture to the ceiling. Disconnect them by twisting off plastic wire nuts. Pull light fixture from ceiling.

4. Unscrew the brass end cap counterclockwise and slide it over the chain. You now have access to the wires connecting pull chain switch to light fixture. Disconnect wires and remove pull chain.

5. Take new pull chain and insert it into hole where old one was connected. Screw the brass end cap back on to the fixture so it holds the pull chain switch in place.

6. Connect one black wire from the new pull chain switch to a black wire from the fixture. Take the other wire from the pull chain switch and connect it to the black wire from the ceiling. Then connect white wire from the light fixture to the white wire from the ceiling. Secure all the connections with electrical tape.

7. Mount the fixture back into the ceiling bracket. Replace bulb. Turn circuit on or reinsert fuse and test the pull chain.

Tags: pull chain, light fixture, wire from, chain switch, pull chain switch

Italian Small Kitchen Design Ideas

Venice, Italy

Have you ever wanted your small kitchen to feel like a Tuscan retreat? There are a few tips you can follow to achieve this look yourself with little trauma to your wallet. Creating a traditional, Old World Italian style in your small-sized kitchen is easy with simple painting techniques, ceramic tiles and recycled furniture.

Paint

Creating a faux stucco, multihued wall is a great way to create Mediterranean flair in your kitchen. Most people would gravitate to heavy, deep oranges and burgundies when they think of Italian kitchen design. However, these dark colors can make an already small space look even tinier because darker colors absorb, not reflect, light. Try going for a lighter color palette with warm tones.

To create a multihued stucco look, you will need joint compound and a mixture of warm colors. HGTV designer Ann Sundet recommends a color palette that includes sage green, red, light tan and cream. You will also need a paint tray, paint roller and an inexpensive large paintbrush with the bristles cut down to 1 inch for easy pouncing. Begin by placing 2 cups of joint compound in the paint tray. Using a spoon, drizzle each of the four colors over the joint compound, then roll the paint roller over the mixture to blend. Don't try to combine all the colors into one; for a rustic Old World look, you will want to have multiple hues. Use your paintbrush to dab the paint and joint compound combination all over your walls.

Cabinets

Your cabinets will need to match your newly warmed-up walls. If you have traditional wooden cabinets, an easy way to do this is to sand them and stain them a deep reddish-brown. If you have MDF or particleboard cabinetry, don't fret; you don't have to spend thousands of dollars on new cabinets. You can simply paint them a deep brick-red to complement the colors on your walls.

Another good way to create a Mediterranean look is by changing out the handles on your drawers and cabinets. Brass handles will work well in an Italian kitchen and give it a rustic feel. When choosing the handles, you can go with an ornate design for a traditional feel, or you can choose a simpler design for a more modern appearance.

Furniture and Accessories

Before you go furniture shopping, you might want to stop and take a look at what you already have. You can easily convert a plain wooden dining table into an Italian treat. Start by staining the table a deep, warm brown. An easy technique recommended by Sundet is taping off a square in the center of your table and painting that area the same cream you used on your walls. Then, you can use an ornate stencil to decorate the corners of the square with sage green. To give your dining chairs a Mediterranean feel, try reupholstering them with a gold fabric.

Buffets are also a lovely feature in an Italian kitchen. Sundet created a beautiful buffet by painting an old shelving unit sage green, then attaching two large, warm tiles to the top to hide any wear.

Lighting accessories can make or break a kitchen. Try shopping in antique or thrift stores to find a brass chandelier. If you can't find brass lighting, you can easily paint the frame of the chandelier using gold spray paint. Then, use a bristle brush to stipple dark brown over the gold to give it an aged look.

Tags: joint compound, Italian kitchen, sage green, your walls, color palette, create Mediterranean, find brass

Install Wood Paneling On A Cement Wall

Remodeling an unfinished basement is a typical example where installing wood paneling is an effective way of improving the appearance of the cement walls. In the process, the walls can be insulated to improve the energy efficiency of the space, and the procedure for accomplishing both can be adapted to any type of wall paneling or covering being used.

Instructions

1. Position continuous lengths of 2-by-4 pressure-treated lumber on its edge, end to end, against the base of the cement wall. Secure the boards to the wall using concrete nails spaced approximately 2 feet apart and 6 inches from each end joint. This installs the base horizontal backing for the wall paneling.

2. Mark an incremental 16-inch layout on the top outer edge of the horizontal boards installed in Step 1. Beginning at either end, use a measuring tape to place pencil marks at 16-inch spacing along the length of the wall being paneled. These are the center lines of the vertical nail backing. Use a hand square to extend these center lines down the outer face of the backing board.

3. Cut one 2-by-4 pressure-treated board for each of the layout lines defined in Step 2. Determine the length as the vertical dimension between the top edge of the base backing board and the top edge or ceiling line of the cement wall, then subtract 3 1/2 inches to leave an opening for the top horizontal backing.

4. Install one 2-by-4 pressure-treated board as vertical backing, centered at each layout line and flat to the wall surface. Verify that the 2-by-4 pressure-treated board is plumb using a level, then secure to the wall with concrete nails spaced 18 to 24 inches apart and 6 inches from each end. All of the concrete nails should be fully driven to flush the head with the 2-by-4 pressure-treated board's surface.

5. Install one additional 2-by-4 pressure-treated board as vertical backing at both ends of the cement wall. Secure using concrete nails spaced approximately 18 to 24 inches apart and 6 inches from the ends.

6. Install a continuous top horizontal backing board against the ceiling, across the length of the cement wall using concrete nails spaced approximately 18 to 24 inches apart.

7. Cut pieces of 1 1/2-inch foil-faced rigid insulation panels to fit the wall spaces between the backing boards. Cutting the panel pieces to a snug fit helps secure the panels in place. These insulated openings will help to improve temperature regulation and heating costs for the room.

8. Secure each piece of 1 1/2-inch foil-faced rigid insulation into the wall space with a continuous perimeter bead of construction adhesive applied to the back side. Press the pieces against the cement wall to spread the adhesive. Masking tape can be used to hold the edges flush with the face of the backing boards while the adhesive cures.

9. Install the wall paneling according to the pattern and type by attaching the paneling to the backing board frame using the recommended paneling nails.

Tags: 2-by-4 pressure-treated, 2-by-4 pressure-treated board, concrete nails, pressure-treated board, backing board, cement wall

Decorate With Stainless Steel And Bronze Fixtures

There's no reason that brass and stainless steel can't coexist.

One of the biggest myths of home decorating is that everything has to match. Some of the most dynamic homes have not only an eclectic mix of colors, but a daring mix of styles as well, preventing your house from looking like a generic furniture showroom. This is also true of your fixtures as well. While stainless steel fixtures are strongly evocative of modern decor and bronze fixtures have a strongly old-fashioned style vibe, there's truly no reason why you can't combine the two harmoniously.

Instructions

1. Look around the room in question and decide definitively what that style of the room will be. This determines how much mixing and matching leeway you have. For example, a shaker style kitchen will give you less leeway than a simply eclectic kitchen.

2. Select light fixtures for the room in either brass or stainless steel that best match your decor style.The light fixtures will dominate strongly, so they need to have a more cohesive look with the rest of the room.

3. Select a faucet and sink made from the opposite material. For example, if you've chosen brass lights, then opt for a stainless steel faucet, and vice versa. Select faucet fixtures that echo the structural style of your light fixtures so that while the materials don't match, their shapes are evocative of one another.

4. Choose cabinet hardware that matches either the stainless steel light fixtures or the faucet. There is no right or wrong answer -- just design freedom. It all depends on which material you'd rather be more dominant in the room.

Tags: light fixtures, stainless steel, brass stainless, brass stainless steel, fixtures that

Get Light Into A Windowless Bathroom

Bring in mirrors to reflect and intensify light.

A tiny half bath or guest bathroom can seem dreary without adequate lighting. Many smaller bathrooms, especially in apartments, may not have a window to cheer the room with natural light. You can use artificial light to reflect and intensify existing light. Full-length mirrors can open up a windowless bathroom and provide a larger feeling.

Instructions

Bringing in Light

1. Install a skylight to instantly flood the room with natural light if your bathroom ceiling makes direct contact with the roof. This option saves money, since you don't have to turn on lights during the day, and natural light typically gives the best ambiance.

2. Shop for a quality skylight. Avoid the cheapest units with plastic glazing, which can eventually leak, costing you more in the long run. Curbed skylights with energy-efficient glazing work well.

3. Check your bathroom for adequate ventilation to prevent condensation on the skylight during showers. Consult an installer to see what size works best for your bathroom.

Artificial Light

4. Place different types of lighting in several places in your bathroom. Even smaller rooms benefit from focused and ambient light. Consult an electrician about proper wiring to install sconces or vertical fixtures on either side of the vanity mirror or above, at 75 to 80 inches above the floor. Recessed ceiling fixtures cast shadows on the face, so make sure the fixture extends beyond the wall once installed. Use a 150-watt bulb or its equivalent.

5. Place lighting in the shower. Install a recessed light with a glass lens to prevent yellowing. Install a similar light over the tub, if you don't have a freestanding shower.

6. Bring in ambient lighting in lieu of natural light by installing a surface-mounted ceiling fixture. Use a chandelier or pendant lamp for an eye-catching piece that adds style and elegance to the bathroom. You can also install cove lighting, a rope of lights hidden behind crown molding, to light the perimeter of a tiny room.

7. Install accent lighting to highlight a piece of art, basin or other attractive feature in your bathroom. If your bathroom is too small to add accent or ambient lighting, tilt the shower light at a 35-degree angle to accent attractive tile work.

8. Bring mirrors into the bathroom to reflect existing light. A full-length mirror on one wall, a small cosmetic mirror on a stand or even a smaller framed mirror intensify light and make the bathroom seem more spacious.

Tags: your bathroom, natural light, ambient lighting, bathroom seem, Bring mirrors, existing light

Get Drop Ceiling Tiles White

Dingy or dirty ceiling tiles can ruin the look of a room and devalue a home or property. Nicotine, debris, water leaks or just old age can all be the cause of discolored ceiling tiles. Cleaning is one method of whitening or restoring the ceiling tiles. If the discoloration is resistant to cleaning, you will either have to replace the offending ceiling tile or paint it.

Instructions

Clean

1. Cover the furniture and floors with a drop cloth or old sheets.

2. Place protective wear over your eyes, and a dust mask over your mouth and nose to protect them from falling dust or debris.

3. Dust the ceiling tiles with a feather duster or a vacuum with a dusting attachment. Make sure to dust the corners of the room.

4. Wash away any spots or stains using a sponge. You can wet the sponge with a solution of water and mild dishwashing liquid, if the tiles are made from tin or finished synthetic. Don't use water with porous or sheetrock tiles.

5. Scrape away rust from the ceiling tiles using steel wool.

6. Remove any tiles that have a water stain on them. Inspect the plumbing or area behind the panel and fix any internal leaks. Contact a professional plumber if necessary.

7. Wipe away the water stain with a dry sponge on a porous and sheetrock tiles, use water and detergent on other panel types.

8. Mix 1 part bleach with 3 cups water in a container, if the stain doesn't come out on porous or sheetrock. Dab the water stain with a soft cloth or sponge.

Paint White

9. Pour the shellac stain blocker into a paint pan.

10. Roll the shellac stain blocker onto the surface of the tile with a foam roller that is split every half inch. Then allow it to dry thoroughly.

11. Remove the paint lid and stir the paint. Then pour the paint into a paint pan.

12. Apply white latex paint, or a matching white paint, to the ceiling tile with a foam roller that is split every half inch. You can just paint the damaged tile, or all of them.

Tags: ceiling tiles, porous sheetrock, water stain, ceiling tile, every half, every half inch, foam roller

Ceiling Decoration With Tulle

Tulle makes an elegant decoration for wedding receptions.

When decorating a room, either in your home or for a special event, don't neglect the ceiling. A bare ceiling makes a room feel unfinished, especially if the wall decorations lead the eye upward. Tulle, however, can solve this problem, even on a limited budget. Tulle mesh comes in a number of colors, making it perfect for softening bare ceilings and enhancing room decorations.

Starry Sky

If you love the romantic feel of a starry night sky, tulle and twinkle lights are an enchanting combination. Drape swaths of tulle across the ceiling in a criss-crossing pattern and weave twinkle lights into them. The lights, covered by varying amounts of tulle, will shine through the mesh and look like stars.

To truly give a night-sky impression, combine different colors of dark blue tulle. If you want a more romantic feel, stick to pastels. Mix and match tulle colors to complement your d cor.

Breezy Garland

Tulle doesn't always need to be bunched together or gathered into rosettes. It can look just as beautiful hanging in single curtains from the ceiling. Cut wide swaths of tulle in varying lengths, sewing a pocket into one of the narrow ends of each swath. Feed a dowel through each pocket and tie fishing line to either end of the dowel. This allows you to hang the tulle up.

Give the tulle even more decoration with very small faux birds, butterflies, dragonflies, silk flower blooms and plastic rhinestones. Glue the decorations to the tulle in random patterns. Direct fans at the tulle swaths so they sway gently in the breeze.

Tulle Chandeliers

If you don't have the budget for chandeliers, create a DIY version with tulle. Cut large swaths of tulle and sew a pocket into one of the long sides of each swath. Feed a white hula hoop through each pocket, creating tulle circles. Hang twinkle lights vertically inside each tulle circle. Gather the hanging ends of the tulle and tie them together with elegant swaths of ribbon. When lit, the tulle will filter the twinkle light color and look like romantic chandeliers.

Balloon Parachute

Even elegant events can end with a balloon drop, as long as you use tulle. Cut a piece of tulle large enough to cover most of the ceiling. Suspend it from the ceiling with cord attached to each of the corners. Fill the net with balloons of various colors. While still up in the air, the balloons will look like delicate, stained glass bubbles through the tulle. Attach each tulle corner to a hook with a slipknot. This way, you and three others can pull the slip knots at the same time to release the balloons.

Tags: look like, swaths tulle, twinkle lights, each pocket, each swath, each swath Feed, each tulle

Rewire A Bridge Arm Floor Lamp

Rewire a Bridge Arm Floor Lamp

Bridge arm floor lamps have a swinging arm that extends out from the vertical base of the lamp. This makes them ideal for use as reading lamps, since you can move the light source close to you without having to move the entire lamp. If you have a favorite old bridge arm lamp whose wiring is showing signs of wear and decay, you don't have to consign it to the trash heap. The wiring in bridge arm lamps can be replaced rather easily with a small investment of time--an ideal job for the home handyman.

Instructions

1. Unplug the lamp. Never attempt to work on a live electrical circuit. Remove the lamp shade and the bulb.

2. Detach the bulb socket from the bridge arm of the lamp. This is usually held in place with a nut at the base of the socket. Turn the nut counterclockwise with your fingers or with an adjustable wrench if necessary to loosen it. When the bolt is loosened, the bulb socket will be free, held in place only by the wires of the electrical cord in the lamp.

3. Loosen the two screws on the base of the bulb socket that the lamp cord of the lamp is connected to. Place the bulb socket off to the side for later reuse.

4. Tape the end of your new lamp cord to the end of the lamp cord you just disconnected from the bulb socket. Grasp the end of the lamp's cord with the electrical plug on it and carefully pull the cord out of the lamp. This will pull the new cord through the lamp, saving you the difficulty of fishing the new cord through by itself. Pull enough new cord through the lamp so that you have about 6 inches extending out the bulb socket end and enough to reach your electrical outlets at the base--usually about 6 to 8 feet is a good amount. Cut the new electrical cord to size when you've got the right amount at both ends, using a pair of wire cutters.

5. Remove 1/2 inch of insulation from both of the wires on both ends of the lamp cord, using your wire strippers.

6. Pull the cover off of your new electrical plug. Slide the cover over the end of the wire on the base end of the lamp. Loosen the two screws on the electrical plug. Slide the bare end of one of the lamp cord's wires under each of the screws. Tighten the screws to hold the wires in place. Slide the cover of the electrical plug onto the plug.

7. Slide the bare ends of the lamp cord at the bulb socket end of the lamp under the screws of the bulb socket, one wire to each screw. Tighten the screws to hold the wires in place.

8. Pull the lamp cord from the base end of the lamp to take up any slack on the bulb socket end. Attach the bulb socket to the bridge arm with the nut you loosened to remove the socket originally.

Tags: bulb socket, lamp cord, cord lamp, electrical plug, base lamp, cord through, lamp This

Decorate A Vaulted Ceiling In A Living Room

Vaulted ceilings create a feel of added space in a living room.

A vaulted ceiling is a desirable living room attribute for many people, providing a light, airy, open feel unmatched in places with lower ceilings. Ceilings in general are not the first place you think of when it comes to decorating, but by adding certain elements, you can create a distinctive space in the area above your head. Take advantage of the soaring heights during the decorating process to create a personalized living room in which you enjoy spending time.

Instructions

1. Add a border of crown molding at the base of the ceiling where it meets the wall. The border provides definition between the two spaces and adds a touch of elegance to the living room. Use white molding for a classic decorative effect, keep the wood's natural color for a rustic feel, or paint it any color you desire for creative expression.

2. Paint the vaulted ceiling in your living room. Use a classic color, like ceiling white or eggshell, to compliment any type of wall color and furnishing styles. Paint the ceiling a darker color, like black, if you want to minimize the appearance of height, creating a cozier feel.

3. Add texture to the vaulted ceiling to create visual interest. Choose something in contrast to the texture of your walls for separation. For example, if you have lightly textured walls, opt for something like a heavy knock-down pattern.

4. Install a ceiling mural in your living room. Create a dramatic effect as you walk into the space by painting an elaborate picture that depicts a scene of your choosing, or select a more subtle design such as simple clouds floating overhead.

5. Take advantage of the high ceilings by adding decorative lighting. Select lights such as chandeliers or pendant lighting if the ceiling is at an angle. These types of lighting drop down evenly from all ceiling surfaces. Choose a lighting style that matches the room decor, such as an elaborate wrought-iron chandelier for Old World decor or colorful glass pendants for a modern touch.

Tags: living room, vaulted ceiling, color like, Take advantage, your living, your living room

Make Paneling Look Like Sheet Rock

Wood paneling is an artificial wall surface that mimics the look of wood boards.

Updating and modernizing a home sometimes means making decisions about deal with wood grain wall paneling. Once a popular look, wood paneling can now make a room look dated, and paneling with darker tones can actually cause a room to feel smaller. Replacing the paneling with Sheetrock, or drywall, is one option available for those dealing with old paneling. However, it is also possible to leave the paneling in place and give the existing surface the appearance of Sheetrock, saving you both time and money on the renovation.

Instructions

1. Remove the trim and baseboards from the walls that have paneling. Use a claw hammer to remove the trim by gently prying under the edge of the trim with the hammer's claws.

2. Pour 3 tbsp. liquid soap into a small bucket and fill with warm water. Mix the contents to dilute the soap, creating a soap-water solution. Wash the walls with the solution, using a soft sponge to do the cleaning. Give the surface a good cleaning to remove any dirt, dust or other debris, then allow the wall to dry.

3. Fill in the grooves. Notice that the wood paneling has vertical grooves spaced every few inches. The grooves are part of the design and are meant to add to the illusion of paneling looking like wood boards. Mix a small amount of drywall mud or use a pre-mixed compound to fill in these grooves. Get a small amount of mud on the end of a putty knife and spread it down the length of the groove. Repeat this process until all grooves have been filled. Wait at least two hours for the compound to dry completely.

4. Sand the surface of the drywall mud until it is even with the rest of the wall surface. Use a medium-grit sandpaper in the range of 180 to 200 grit and swipe it over the surface of the compound in a side-to-side motion.

5. Scuff the walls to create a surface that paint and primer can adhere to. Paneling is typically smooth and often has a glossy finish that prevents paint from maintaining a long-term hold. Use a rough-grit sandpaper ranging from 60 to 100 grit and rub down the entire surface of the wall to create scratches on the surface.

6. Rewash the walls using your sponge and soapy water. Clean the entire surface of the wall to wash away any sawdust that may have been generated by your sanding. Allow the walls to dry.

7. Remove any furniture or other items that may remain in the room, and cover the floor with a tarp or large piece of plastic. Spreading old newspaper across the floor also provides adequate protection from paint splatter.

8. Apply a coat of light grey primer to the wall. Painting over the wall with primer will prevent the wood grain patterns from bleeding through your final paint job. Allow two hours drying time before painting.

9. Use a paint roller to paint the surface of the wall with a coat of white paint. Allow two hours drying time and then apply a second coat of white paint. After drying, the newly painted walls will be smooth and resemble a fresh Sheetrock installation. You can now paint over the white with any color you choose, or leave the walls basic white.

10. Replace the baseboards and trim that were originally on the walls. If you wish to paint the trim, paint the boards and allow them to dry prior to replacing them. Since the original nails will still be in the trim, all you have to do is hold them in place and tap them lightly with a hammer or rubber mallet to secure them to the wall.

Tags: surface wall, Allow hours, Allow hours drying, coat white, coat white paint

Place Crown Molding On A Slanted Wall

Making a filler piece lets you hang crown molding on a slanted angle.

Crown molding is designed specifically to be installed along a wall and ceiling that has a 90-degree angle where they meet. In a perfect world, all walls and ceilings are a 90-degree angle. Unfortunately, since this is not a perfect wall and sometimes you have a slanted wall, making the angle less than desirable. If this is the case, modifying your crown molding makes it possible to install it. This takes just a little time and effort to complete.

Instructions

1. Cut your crown molding to length. To determine the length needed, measure your wall with a measuring tape then cut the molding with a circular saw.

2. Use an angle tool to determine the exact angle between the wall and the ceiling. Place the tool against the wall and ceiling and then read the dial on it. This is the angle you are working with.

3. Cut a 4-by-4-inch piece of wood to match the angle measurement you determined in the prior step. Set the blade on a table saw to the determined angle and cut the wood. This becomes your filler wood.

4. Use a stud finder to locate and mark the studs on the wall around the top of your room. This will be where you insert nails.

5. Attach the filler piece to the wall. Push it up against the ceiling and the wall, with the cut angle pointing in and pass nails through the filler piece into the wall where you marked the studs. Use a nail gun to attach it.

6. Attach the crown molding to the wall by pushing it against the filler piece Insert nails through the molding into the wall and filler wood using a nail gun with finishing nails.

Tags: filler piece, crown molding, wall ceiling, 90-degree angle, filler wood, into wall, nails through

Options For Lighting An Exposed Beam Ceiling

Options for Lighting an Exposed Beam Ceiling

The beautiful bones of a cathedral-height exposed beam ceiling deserve special treatment when it comes to lighting. After all, one of the benefits of exposed beams is the dramatic look the beams present, so giving time and effort to equally dramatic lighting makes sense. There are several ways both to light the beams themselves and to install lighting in the beams so as to provide lighting for the room in general.

Shadows

Although it is possible to "up-light" exposed beams with a general wash of light from below, providing too much general wash will only illuminate the beams and cross beams in an even and rather bland manner. A much more dramatic treatment is to light the overhead beams intentionally unevenly, producing bold shadows and contrasts. Dramatic lighting is, after all, a game of producing strong contrasts between light and dark, hot and cold. The only time a general wash is desirable for an outstanding ceiling is when the ceiling has been painted or decorated with stencils or mosaics.

Key-and-Fill Spots

You can achieve this bold contrast by installing spotlights around the perimeter of the room at the highest point of the side walls and shooting spots up and across the beams at an angle. Provide brighter highlight or "key" lighting with spotlight lamps of a higher wattage than weaker "fill" lamps that are perhaps half the wattage of the "key" lamps. For example, use 100-watt halogen lamps for "key" spots and 50-watt lamps for the "fills." Make sure the "key" lights are placed on one side of the room and that "fill" lights are situated on the opposite wall to get the most out of this "key-and-fill" contrast scheme. Install such up-light spots in covered cans or spotlight fixtures to shield guests from harmful glare.

Spots Mounted on Beams

If mounting spotlight cans on the walls isn't possible, or if the spotlight cans produce an unattractive result, you can mount adjustable-focus cans on the beams themselves, positioning them at the far edges, where the beams meet the walls. Because these spotlights must be mounted so close to the beams, they can only be focused to deliver glancing shafts of light across the beams. Glancing lights produce a much different look than full up-lights but can be just as dramatic in terms of the shadows produced. "Key-and-fill" techniques can work in this situation just as well. Make every effort to avoid shining these bright lights in the eyes of guests below, however.

Shadow Projections

If your beamed ceiling is not architecturally spectacular or lacks larger beams for casting deeper contrast shadows, give it some dramatic punch nonetheless by arranging shadow-casting objects such as urns filled with sticks or silk plant fronds in front of up-light cans. Make sure the objects do not make contact with any hot spotlights. The shadows cast by these objects across the ceiling will give the beams more depth and character.

Recessed Lights Between Beams

You can install recessed cans or pot lights in the ceiling between beams to produce nice lighting for the room below without seriously marring the look of the beams. Avoid placing pot lights so close to beams that "flares" or "hot spots" are produced on the beams when the pot lights are illuminated.

Tags: general wash, across beams, Beam Ceiling, beams themselves, close beams, exposed beams, Lighting Exposed

Install A Bathroom Vanity Light With An Outlet

Vanity lights with built-in outlets offer convenience in the bathroom.

Bathroom vanity lights often come with an integrated electrical outlet. This outlet lets you plug in devices like electric razors without requiring the addition of an extra outlet in your bathroom. This can be an important convenience, particularly if the bathroom is old and has limited electrical outlets. You can install the vanity light and outlet using the existing lighting wiring from the old lighting.

Instructions

1. Turn off the power to the circuit you'll be working on at the breaker box for your home. It's extremely important that you never attempt to work on a live electrical circuit.

2. Place the mounting plate for the vanity light on the wall in the location where you plan to install the light. Screw the mounting plate into the wall using the supplied hardware and a screwdriver, ensuring that the electrical wiring for the light routes through the opening in the center of the mounting plate.

3. Remove 1/2-inch of insulation from the ends of the black and white wires on the electrical wires using a set of wire strippers.

4. Place the bare ends of the white wire from the vanity light and the white wire from the electrical wiring together and slide a wire nut over the ends of the wires. Twist the wire nut until it's securely fastened. Wrap a 3-inch piece of electrical tape around the wires and the wire nut for extra insurance.

5. Place the bare ends of the black wire from the vanity light and the black wire from the electrical wiring together and slide a wire nut over the ends of the wires. Twist the wire nut until it's securely fastened. Wrap a 3-inch piece of electrical tape around the wires and the wire nut for extra insurance.

6. Slide the vanity light onto the mounting plate. Most will have several protruding bolts that correspond to holes in the vanity light. Line these up and push the light onto the bolts. Place the nuts supplied with the vanity onto the ends of the bolts and tighten them with your fingers. Turn the power to the circuit back on.

Tags: mounting plate, wire from, electrical wiring, vanity light, vanity light

Wire Lamps With Multiple Sockets

Lamps with multiple bulb sockets offer versatility for your lighting.

Lamps with multiple sockets add a level of versatility to your lighting decor, because you can vary the amount of light put out by switching the different bulb sockets on or off. While the wiring of a lamp with multiple sockets might seem more complex at first glance, the actual wiring is not much more complicated than that of an ordinary single-socket lamp.

Instructions

1. Twist off the locking nuts at the base of each lamp socket with your fingers. Pull the lamp sockets out of the lamp base. Loosen the screws on the base of each of the lamp sockets with your screwdriver.

2. Cut a length of lamp cord for each of the sockets with wire cutters. Pull apart the two leads on each end of the wires with your fingers. Remove 1/2 inch of insulation from the end of each of the leads. Slide the leads from each of the wires under each of the screw terminals -- one lamp wire to each socket -- and tighten the screws.

3. Push the lamp cord wire through the lamp and pull out at the base. Twist together one lead from each of the lamp wires so that you end up with two bare wire ends. Place these together with the two leads from the lamp cord leading to the plug, and place a wire nut over each. Twist the wire nut to hold the wires together.

Tags: each lamp, from each, lamp cord, with your, base each, base each lamp

Differences Between Glass & Concrete Ceilings

One of the major portions of a construction is its ceiling. Part of the overall aesthetic, the ceiling is also responsible for a large part of the structural durability of the house or building. Often used in the construction of apartment buildings, concrete ceilings offer more strength than the thinner, less substantial glass. In fact, strength is only one of several differences between glass and concrete ceilings.

Cost

Although concrete is physically strong, it is also a much cheaper building material than glass. This is because concrete is made by simply mixing together inexpensive raw materials such as Portland cement, ash and slag in certain proportions. Conversely, glass is made by the superheating of different minerals and chemicals. The glass is then polished and cut before sale. The cost of a more elaborate and expensive manufacturing process for ceiling glass is passed on to the customer.

Durability

The durability of concrete is often measured in its compressive strength. The strength of concrete used in apartment buildings ranges from anywhere between 6,000 psi to 12,000 psi. Glass, such as tempered and toughened glass, supports compression of over 4,000 psi but must also balance that pressure with tensile strength, meaning the strength of the entire glass panel against the area of pressure. This reduces the already less substantial durability of glass.

Support

Glass ceilings require a support system that holds the glass panels in place and supports their structure against the pressure of the walls in the home. This structure is usually a metal framework that takes the majority of the structural burden and allows the glass to rest unburdened by the need to bear the entire load of a room. Concrete ceilings often use internal support in the form of rebar. This material supports the form of the concrete until it is properly cured. Once concrete is cured, the majority of the load rests on the strength of the concrete and not the internal metal support.

Damage and Repair

Concrete and glass both suffer from cracks but they suffer very differently and with different repercussions for the homeowner. Cracks in a glass ceiling are often a symptom of structural damage somewhere in the ceiling's framework. Also, if cracked glass is not removed from the ceiling immediately, the panel may break and cause injury. Cracked concrete, conversely, does not cause such immediate damage and, while it may also indicate larger structural issues, is not as dire as broken ceiling glass unless the cracks are far more severe.

Tags: apartment buildings, ceiling glass, concrete ceilings, less substantial, strength concrete

Ceiling Fan Speed Control Work

Your ceiling fan manual should contain information on its components.

Ceiling fans provide two important functions in the home: lighting and air circulation. Controlling the lighting element on a ceiling fan requires nothing more than a standard light switch. The fan control, on the other hand, requires more complex wiring. Fan controls allow ceiling fans to operate at variable speeds and independently of lighting elements. The manner in which a speed control works depends upon the type of technology used.

Wiring

A ceiling fan's wiring is integral when it comes to controlling its speed. In order to control the fan's speed, the fan needs its own system of wires, separate from that of the lighting element. If you install a ceiling fan without wiring it properly, it may prove impossible to operate the fan without the light on and vice versa. The wiring also determines whether you control the speed of the fan from a wall switch, string or other mechanism attached to the unit. Consider hiring a professional to set up your ceiling fan if you have limited experience doing so.

Speed Controls

Two basic types of speed controls exist for ceiling fans: wall controls and controls on the unit itself. Controls on the unit generally have a predetermined number of settings, such as low, medium, high and off. Each time you pull a string or press a button on the unit, it switches from one setting to the next in the line. For instance, you must pull the string three times to go from "low" to "off." Wall controls, such as circular toggles and dimmer switches, allow you to control ceiling fans at a full spectrum of speeds, ranging from off to maximum.

Solid-State Technology

The way in which your fan's speed control actually works depends upon whether it has a capacitor or solid-state control. Solid-state controls change the level of power in the fan motor to control the speed of the fan. For instance, when you switch from medium to high on a solid-state fan, the speed control mechanism increases the power of the motor. Solid-state controls are generally equipped in fans with controls that have predetermined settings, such as low, medium and high.

Capacitors

Capacitors control the flow of power to a fan motor. A capacitor receives 100 percent of the power supplied from a power source to a fan motor and meters how much of that power the motor actually receives. For instance, if you set a wall switch to 33 percent power, the capacitor supplies the motor an appropriate amount of electricity. This allows you to set the fan speed at any level between off and maximum. Because of this, capacitors appear in fans with a full range of speed settings, from 0 percent power to 100.

Wall Switches

Numerous sources, including the authors of the book "Electrical Wiring Residential," warn against using dimmer switches to control the speed of a fan. While technically speaking you can wire a fan to work this way, light switches work in different ways than fan speed controls. Using a dimmer switch to control fan speed can damage both the fan and the dimmer. Always purchase a wall switch designed specifically for use with fans. Some switches work with solid-state technology, others with capacitors.

Tags: control speed, power motor, ceiling fans, medium high, percent power, wall switch

Attach Projection Screens To Metal Studs

LCD projectors have become the favored way to watch television and movies in a home media room. A projection screen brings you the best possible picture from your LCD projector. Fastening the projection screen to a wall that is framed with metal studs is similar to the installation process of a wood framed wall. Although the technique for hanging the screen is similar, the hardware required is not. The metal studs rarely land on the corner locations of the projector screen. Fabricating a projection screen mounting bracket will allow you to mount the screen in the optimal position.

Instructions

1. Prep the 1 inch by 6 inch piece of pine. Open the wood primer by prying on the lid with the flat head screwdriver. Stir the primer thoroughly. Apply an even coat of primer to all sides of the board. Clean the paint brush. Let the board dry while you proceed to the next step.

2. Determine the height at which the projection screen will be mounted. The bottom of the projection screen should be mounted between 24 and 40 inches from the floor and there should also be an open area of no less than 6 inches between the projection screen and the ceiling. Measure from the floor. Place a mark at the appropriate height. Find the center of the wall by measuring the wall's length and dividing it by two. Place a pencil mark at the wall's center. Extend the centerline up the wall with the four-foot level.

3. Measure and mark half of the screen width on either side of the wall's centerline. Extend the lines up to the projection screen's mounting height. Use the stud finder to locate the studs within the projector screen area. Place a pencil mark at each stud location. If there is no stud located close to the end of the projection screen, find the first stud past the projection screen location. Cut the 1 inch by 6 inch pine board to the length of the farthest studs, plus 2 inches.

4. Place marks 1 inch in from each end of the pine board and then place a mark for each stud location. Mark the center of the pine board at each stud pencil mark. Drill an 1/8th inch hole at the point where the board centerline mark crosses the stud marks.

5. Hold the pine board on the wall with the corner of the board 1 inch past the studs furthest from the center of the projection screen and the top edge of the board 1 inch above the projection screen height. Insert a screw through one of the 1/8th inch holes located at the end of the pine board. Place the four-foot level on the top of the pine board. When the board is level, insert a screw in the next hole over. Continue to screw the board to the wall at each stud location.

6. Fill the screw holes with wood putty. After the wood putty has hardened, sand it even with the surface of the pine board. Paint the mounted pine board with your chosen paint color.

7. Mount the projection screen to the pine board mounting bracket using the manufacturer's installation instructions.

Tags: projection screen, pine board, each stud, each stud location, pencil mark

Hang Plants Off Of The Ceiling For Bedroom Decoration

Hanging potted plants can do much to make your bedroom seem warm and inviting. It doesn't take long to insert a few hooks into your ceiling to hang your plants but the tools you need and the method you use to hang the hooks will depend on whether or not you drill into a hidden ceiling beam.

Instructions

1. Choose an area of the bedroom where the plant will get enough light and where you will be able to easily water the plant. Avoid hanging a plant over the bed.

2. Set up a ladder underneath the spot you have chosen.

3. Remove the decorative ceiling hook from the package. There will usually be four pieces: the hook, a threaded post that screws into the hook, a pointed screw that fits into the hook and an expandable wall anchor. Which pieces you use depend on whether you are drilling through the ceiling or into a ceiling beam.

4. Drill a hole into the ceiling slightly smaller than the pointed screw that came with the decorative hook if you are drilling into a ceiling beam. Twist the pointed screw into the hook. Screw the hook, pointed end up, into the hole until it is securely attached to the ceiling.

5. Drill a hole into the ceiling large enough to fit the folded anchor if you are drilling directly through the ceiling.

6. Screw the threaded post into the decorative hook. Attach the expandable anchor onto the other end of the threaded post so that the joint of the anchor is pointing away from the hook.

7. Fold down the anchor and insert the anchor into the hole in the ceiling. Push up on the hook until you feel the anchor push through the ceiling and into the space on the other side. The anchor will open on the other side of the ceiling.

8. Pull down on the hook and twist until the hook has screwed into the ceiling.

9. Hang the plant and clean up any debris on the floor.

Tags: into ceiling, ceiling beam, into hook, pointed screw, threaded post, through ceiling, ceiling into

Pickle Stain A Knotty Pine

Pickle Stain a Knotty Pine

Staining wood is the process of letting a very thin, watery pigment sit on it long enough to soak into the grain and accent the natural designs of the wood, before wiping off the excess. "Pickling'' refers to a specific kind of staining process that uses regular white paint that is thinned out and applied as if it is regular stain. The effect is a translucent white finish that shows the natural beauty of the wood while giving it an antique-looking patina. Knotty pine is especially good for this kind of treatment because of the interesting patterns in the wood.

Instructions

1. Strip, sand and thoroughly clean the wood to be stained. Lay rags around the bottom of the wood to catch runoff from the stain.

2. Mix your primer in a can with with an equal amount of water. Stir well.

3. Spread the primer-water mixture generously over the knotty pine with your brush, pushing it into all the cracks and corners.

4. Let the stain sit for five minutes, then wipe it down with a slightly damp rag, pressing lightly to leave the white residue on the wood. Let dry for day.

5. Coat the wood with clear gloss to seal in the pickled stain.

Tags: Pickle Stain, Pickle Stain Knotty, Stain Knotty, Stain Knotty Pine

Mount A Projector On The Ceiling

A ceiling mount makes a home theater like a movie theater

Mounting a projector on the ceiling is a sensible way to keep the projector out of the way and from taking over all the space in a living room or den. But it does require patience and planning if it is to be mounted correctly and safely.

Instructions

Mounting the Projector

1. Choose a mount that is designed to work with your projector. Mark the position for the mount on the ceiling so that when the projector is attached, the projector will be at the same height as the screen on which the image will be projected, and that the center of the projector's lens is at the center of the screen horizontally. This could require a pole added to the mount, which is then attached to the projector. The mount should also be at the same viewing distance from the movie screen as those who will be watching.

2. Attach the ceiling mount to the projector using bolts attached to the threaded mounting holes on the projector. Clamps and chains can be added for greater stability, depending upon the type of mount and type of projector.

3. Attach the electrical cord and the video cables that have been pulled out from the ceiling hole to their appropriate position on the projector.

4. Mount the ceiling mount to the ceiling using proper tools and the parts provided with the ceiling mount. If the ceiling mount is not of the same type as the parts provided, procure suitable hardware from a hardware store. Be sure the mounting is secure and that the location is strong enough to hold the projector safely.

5. Turn on the projector and check that it is getting power and that it is getting a video signal. Adjust the focus and other settings by watching the image being projected on the movie screen.

Tags: ceiling mount, attached projector, ceiling mount ceiling, mount ceiling, movie screen, parts provided, that getting

Install Wood Paneling

Ideal for colder climates, wood paneling adds a warm glow to any room. Wood paneling is easy to install, but requires good attention to detail to look it's best. Here are the basics to installing wood paneling in a room.

Instructions

1. Prepare the walls. Remove all of the wall trim, including window and door casings. Turn off the power to the room at the switch box and remove all outlet covers. Make sure outlet frames will extend to the paneling face.

2. Nail a 1 by 6 furring strip along the floor. At the wall midpoint and ceiling, horizontally nail 1 by 4 furring strips. Use a caulking gun to apply construction adhesive on the back of the furring strip.

3. Install the first board. With the groove edge facing the corner, place the board in a corner. Make sure the board is perfectly plumb with a level. Face nail into the face of the board at the corner and blind-nail into the tongue at the furring strips.

4. Blind-nail all of the remaining boards. Nail diagonally through the edge of the tongue to fasten to the furring strips. Drive the nails flush with a nail set and hammer. Measure and rip the last board on the wall to extend to the corner.

5. Make the outlet cutouts as you come to them. Heavily chalk the wall around the edge of the electrical box. Hold the panel in place and lightly tap against the chalk. At the corners of the chalk outline drill four holes. Make the cutout 1/4" larger than the chalk outline using a keyhole saw.

6. Reinstall all the trim. Baseboard, ceiling trim, and window and door casings are put back into place. Apply a couple of coats of polyurethane to protect the paneling. Replace the outlet covers before restoring power the room.

Tags: furring strips, board corner, chalk outline, corner Make, door casings, furring strip, Make sure