Friday, June 29, 2012

Simple & Easy Ways To Cover A Popcorn Ceiling

Decorative tiles can be used to cover a popcorn ceiling.


Popcorn ceilings were a common addition in many homes from the 1970s and on. They were installed for their acoustic benefits, but unfortunately, many find them to be an ugly eyesore. If you don't have the money or time to completely replace a popcorn ceiling, several techniques can be used to camouflage the texture.








Ceiling Tiles


Decorative ceiling tiles are by far the most common choice for covering a popcorn ceiling. They are lightweight and can be installed using basic tools, and not a lot of handy experience is needed during installation. The texture of popcorn ceilings is actually quite delicate, and pressing new decorative tiles may cause some of the pieces to break off. In addition to ceiling tiles, matching crown molding can also be used to add further drama to the room.


Hardwood Planks


For a rustic look, hardwood planks can be installed on the ceiling of a home with a popcorn texture. In rooms with shorter ceilings, this may close in the space. The best solution for this would be to select a wood that can be painted white or a light color. Lightweight floor planks can typically be used for ceilings; the installation requires a simple nail gun and a ladder.


Pressed Tin Tiles


Pressed tin tiles were quite common in the early 1900s, and they are enjoying a resurgence as designers have rediscovered them. They can be painted any color, or the actual tin can be used and the homeowner can enjoy the different patinas it will take on as it ages. Installation techniques for these tiles are the same as for regular ceiling tiles. Note that the acoustics in a room with tin tiles on the ceiling will be much different than with other materials, which may take some getting used to.








Painting and Fabric


Two very simple and easy ways to cover a popcorn ceiling include painting it or applying fabric over the ceiling. Painting will not actually camouflage the texture, but it can help it appear less noticeable. This project can typically be completed for around $25 for the cost of paint and a roller, as of May 2011. Fabric is a very easy fix for renters who do not have the option of changing anything in their dwelling. Select a fabric you like, and attach it to the ceiling with a staple gun.

Tags: popcorn ceiling, camouflage texture, ceiling tiles, cover popcorn, Fabric very

Replace A Suspended Kitchen Ceiling Light

This heavy-duty suspended light would need two to remove.


A suspended ceiling light usually has a canopy that is flush mounted to the ceiling. A rod or chain runs through the canopy. At the end of the chain hangs the light sockets and the decorative fixture. In this way the light is suspended below the ceiling itself. If any of these components break, the entire fixture may need to be replaced. Fortunately, replacing a suspended ceiling light does not take too long, so long as you have enough strength to hold the ceiling light and can reach the ceiling.


Instructions


1. Turn off the power to the suspended light by switching the appropriate breaker switch to off.


2. Set up the ladder below the suspended light and climb it with your circuit tester and crescent wrench. If your suspended light was broken, test that the circuit hasn't shorted into the canopy by testing the volts of the canopy itself with the circuit tester. This is a safety precaution. If your circuit tester reads 0, use the crescent wrench to loosen the canopy nut holding the canopy to the ceiling by turning counterclockwise.


3. Let the canopy dangle down on the chain or down rod and note the wiring below the cross bar which holds the suspended light fixture to the ceiling. There should be pairs of white and black wires. A green or bare wire from the ceiling may be connected to a screw on the cross bar, or a green wire from the light fixture. Use the circuit tester to make sure all of these circuits read 0. Use the lead of the hot, or black, wires to test the circuit. Note that the black wire from the ceiling may be red, but this is still the hot wire.








4. Disconnect the white and black wires by unscrewing the wire nuts and pulling apart the leads. If the light fixture has a green wire, disconnect this one as well.


5. Have a friend hold the light fixture while you unscrew the two Phillips head screws mounting the cross bar to the ceiling joists. If you have the strength to unscrew the screws and hold the fixture yourself, do so. Bring the cross bar and light fixture to the floor.


6. Loosen the collar cap on the bolt and lock nut holding the bolt to the cross bar. Take the bolt off the cross bar. Set the old fixture with the bolt aside. Insert the threaded bolt of the replacement light fixture through the relief hole in the cross bar. Tighten the bolt with the lock nut and collar cap using the wrench and turning clockwise.


7. Carry the light fixture, cross bar, mounting hardware, and screwdriver up the ladder. Be careful that the weight isn't too much to remain steady on the ladder. Align the cross bar with the holes in the joist, and screw the cross bar into the joist. Have a friend hold the fixture if it's too heavy. Allow the fixture to dangle down on its chain or rod.


8. Connect the wires of the replacement fixture with the wires from the ceiling. Connect white to white and black to black or red. Connect the green ground wire from the ceiling to the green wire from the replacement fixture, or the green screw on the crossbar. Use the wire nuts to cover the lead connections and use electrical tape over the wire nuts or bad insulation to ensure no shorts occur in the circuit. Push all of the wires above the cross bar into the outlet box in the ceiling.


9. Tighten the canopy nut of the replacement fixture over the canopy to press the canopy flush with the ceiling so that the wires and mounting hardware are invisibly to the viewer.

Tags: light fixture, suspended light, wire from, circuit tester, from ceiling

Sinks To Antique Washstands

Washstands were traditionally used to house all the trappings necessary to take a bath, from the wash basin to soaps and towels. The washstand has evolved into the modern day bathroom vanity, but there is still a certain charm about an antique washstand that makes many people want to convert one to use instead of a modern vanity. The most fitting sink to use with an antique washstand is a vessel sink, which sits on top of the washstand, much like the wash basins that were used before there was indoor plumbing.


Instructions


1. Place the vessel sink on the washstand top as you want it to be positioned when the sink is attached.








2. Pencil around the base of the vessel sink, as well as the position of the drain hole of the sink.


3. Attach a hole bit to your drill the exact diameter as the drain hole, then cut out the drain hole through the washstand top.


4. Apply silicone adhesive to the top of the washstand from the pencil line you drew around the base of the vessel sink, right up to the hole you cut for the drain.








5. Sit the sink on top of the washstand carefully, ensuring the drain hole in the sink is perfectly aligned with the hole in the top of the washstand.


6. Press down gently on the sink to ensure full contact with the adhesive. Wipe away any adhesive that comes out around the edges of the sink bottom with a rag.


7. Leave the adhesive to set for the time recommended by the adhesive manufacturer. The washstand is now ready for positioning in the bathroom, where you can connect the plumbing to the sink.

Tags: drain hole, vessel sink, antique washstand, around base, around base vessel, base vessel, base vessel sink

Thursday, June 28, 2012

Remove A Fluorescent Ceiling Light Fixture

Replace an old light fixture with something new and stylish.








Changing the lighting design in your home could require you to remove an old fluorescent ceiling fixture. Removing an old florescent fixture or simply swapping it for a new style could change the look of a room. When you remove a fluorescent fixture, take care with the bulbs. They contain mercury, and you need to dispose of them properly. Most home-improvement stores have a florescent light disposal program. See if a store in your community has one.


Instructions


1. Disconnect the electricity to the fluorescent ceiling fixture in your service panel. The service panel is the main fuse box or your main breaker box in your home.


2. Remove the light shade from the fixture. Depending on the style that you have, the shade could wrap around the fixture, or it could be a flat-panel shade that installs directly in the fixture. Remove a wrap-around shade by grabbing it on one side and popping it away. Remove a flat-panel shade by pushing it up and tilting it out.


3. Remove the fluorescent light tubes. Most fluorescent tubes twist slightly left or right and release from their sockets. Circle line and U-bent fluorescent tubes install differently. The circle line tube is held in the fixture by metal tabs, and the socket plugs into the side of the tube. The ends of a U-bent tube go into the fixture sockets, and the tube is held to the fixture by metal tabs. Simply unplug the socket from the circle line tube, and pull the bulb from the metal tabs. Pull the U-bent fluorescent tube from the metal tabs, and pull the ends of the tube out of the sockets.








4. Remove the ballast cover from the center of the fixture. Depending on the manufacturer of your fixture, the ballast cover secures to the fixture with screws or metal tabs inserted in slots in the fixture. Remove the screws or squeeze the ballast cover to release it from the tabs and remove it from the fixture.


5. Untwist the connectors holding the black, white and green wire from the fluorescent ballast to the black, white and bare copper ground wire from your house wiring. Remove the screws from the fluorescent fixture that mount the fixture directly to the ceiling. Take the fixture from the ceiling.


6. Replace the wire connectors to your house wiring. Wrap the wire connectors in electrical tape securing the connectors to the house wires. This caps off your wires until you are ready to install a new fixture. Reconnect electricity to the circuit in your service panel if the circuit supplies electricity to something other than the fluorescent fixture that you removed.

Tags: metal tabs, ballast cover, fluorescent fixture, service panel, black white

What To Use For A Porch Ceiling

A covered porch creates an outdoor living space in which to enjoy warm weather and entertain guests. If the porch ceiling needs an update, there are several ceiling material options, depending on personal preference. Replacing the ceiling on the porch gives it the desired look you want.


Tongue-and-Groove








Using tongue-and-groove paneling results in a classic wood look that is warm and casual. The wood planks lock into place with the tongue-and-groove system. The wood planks come in various widths, so you are able to customize the look. You may either paint or stain unfinished wooden planks for further customization of the porch ceiling.


Beadboard


Beadboard is another wood option for the porch ceiling. Unlike the tongue-and-groove option that uses individual wood planks, beadboard is available in large sheets that resemble individual narrow planks of wood. This material allows you to stain or paint the ceiling. Add beams where the sheets of beadboard meet to cover the seams and add architectural features to the porch ceiling. Beadboard is available in a vinyl version that makes it lower maintenance by eliminating the rotting factor that comes with wood.


Plywood


Plywood is a relatively inexpensive material to use for a porch ceiling. It comes in large sheets, allowing you to cover a large portion of the porch ceiling at one time. You get a smooth look with the plywood as opposed to the plank look of beadboard or tongue and groove. Use an exterior plywood to reduce the risk of rotting. Priming the edges of the plywood sheets before installing them may help reduce rotting or damage to the ceiling.








Composite or Vinyl


Wood products may give a natural warmth to a porch ceiling, but you run the risk of rotting and the need for later maintenance. Composite materials resemble real wood but don't need the same maintenance. Vinyl materials resembling wood are similar in nature and require little maintenance without the risk of rotting. Consider using these materials if you don't want to deal with the upkeep of wood, or if you live in a climate with harsh weather.

Tags: porch ceiling, risk rotting, wood planks, ceiling Beadboard, large sheets

Wednesday, June 27, 2012

Make A Ceiling Interesting

Tin panels are one way to make ceilings interesting.


Ceilings are often overlooked as a design feature in homes even though an interesting ceiling can be a focal point in any room. Anything that draws your eye up to the ceiling would be effective. Whether you use paint or decorative pieces such as domes or medallions, always keep your overall style and the other colors in the room in mind so that you can coordinate colors and maintain the style of your decor.


Instructions


1. Paint your ceiling a color other than white. Painting your ceiling a color that coordinates with other colors in a specific room will change the look of any room in your house. Colored ceilings help to make a room feel more intimate and cozy whether you paint the ceiling in a family room, dining room or bedroom. Even bold or dark colors such as dark red can make a room feel more cozy.








2. Choose a mural to have painted on your ceiling according to the function of the room. Options include a sky scene of a light blue color with white fluffy clouds for a bedroom, a ceiling of glow-in-the-dark suns, moons and planets for a child's room or a whimsical ceiling of animals or cartoon characters for a nursery.


3. Consider sky tiles that create rectilinear, luminous sky ceilings. An ordinary ceiling is transformed with lit tiles that look like the sky. Tiles can be used to cover small areas or the entire ceiling.


4. Install medallions on your ceiling around a light fixture. Medallions are typically round and can be plain or extremely ornate. Use a white medallion as is, spray paint it any color that goes well in the room or hand paint a design on a medallion to reflect your personality or particular interest.








5. Use tin ceiling panels to create a masterpiece on your ceiling. Tin ceiling tiles come in various patterns and designs. Tin ceiling tiles can be painted any color to match any room's decor. You can repeat one pattern or use a combination of designs to create an antique or modern look.

Tags: your ceiling, ceiling color, ceiling tiles, color that, feel more, make room, make room feel

Make A Lamp Out Of A Log







Making objects from driftwood found in various places or small logs from the yard can be an exciting experience. Many homes encompass country d cor, in which a lamp made out of a log would fit perfectly. Unusual textures can be achieved by using unusually shaped logs or logs of different varieties or sizes. Creating your own lamp from a log will give the room a customized feeling, as no one else will have a log lamp exactly like yours.


Instructions


1. Drill a hole through the center of the log. You will need a 1/2-inch drill bit to drill the hole, so that the cord of the light bulb fixture will thread through it easily. The log should have a fairly flat spot at the bottom (against your work surface) while you are drilling the hole. The exact placement of this hole will depend upon the log you choose. Remember that the light bulb fixture will rest at the top of the hole. Drill the hole from what will be the top of your lamp through to what will be the bottom.


2. String the cord of a preassembled lamp fixture, available at building supply stores, through the hole you drilled in the log. Pull the cord tight so that the light fixture rests against the top of the hole. Apply a small amount of super glue to the bottom of the light fixture and press it down firmly against the log for 30 seconds. Allow the glue to dry for 24 hours.


3. Place a lamp shade over the light bulb. Check your light fixture to determine whether you need a clamp-on or O-ring style of lamp shade. Not all lamp shades will fit on both styles of light fixtures. Opt for a neutral-colored shade, such as beige, brown or hunter green, to blend in with the feeling of the natural wood. Textured lamp shades will compete with the texture of the log, so steer away from them, choosing a smooth lamp shade instead.

Tags: lamp shade, light bulb, light fixture, bulb fixture, bulb fixture will, Drill hole

Tuesday, June 26, 2012

Wire Two Ceiling Fans On The Same Circuit

Wire Two Ceiling Fans on the Same Circuit


Ceiling fans are an attractive and cost-effective addition to any heating and cooling plan. The diameter of a fan's blades determine how effective it is in circulating air; the largest fan can handle up to 400 square feet. If your room is larger than this, you can add more than one fan to a circuit and control them with a single switch. This article assumes that you will be adding a new circuit to your building.


Instructions


Planning the Circuit


1. Plan the circuit for the fans. Do not exceed more than 1,440 watts on a 15-amp circuit or 1,920 watts on a 20-amp circuit. Check the fans to see that their wattages fit within these parameters.








2. Check the amperage rating on your breaker box to make sure your home power supply can handle the additional circuit. You can determine this by calculating the total number of amps your home draws and comparing it to the rating on your service panel.


3. Buy cable appropriate for the type of circuit. A 20-amp circuit requires 12-gauge cable, while a 15-amp circuit requires cable no smaller than 14-gauge.


4. Kill the power to the service panel and add the new circuit by attaching the black (hot) wire to the circuit breaker and the white (neutral) wire to the neutral bus bar. Snap the breaker into place.


5. Run the cable as straight as possible to the room where you will be installing the fan.


Hanging the Fans


6. Cut the openings in the wall and ceiling where you will be placing the switch and fans. Cut another, smaller opening directly above the switch where the wall and ceiling meet to make threading the wire from the switch to the fans easier. The ceiling holes should be about 6 inches in diameter and each should be centered between two ceiling joists.


7. Attach the switch box to the wall. Switch junction boxes do not need to be attached to wall studs and can be affixed directly to drywall or plastic.


8. Hang each fan's brace bar, fastening it to the ceiling joists. Attach a junction box to the bar.


9. Run the electrical cable from the service panel to the switch box. Connect the black (hot) wire to one of the brass screws on the switch.








10. Run cable from the switch to the first fan junction box. Attach the black wire from this cable to the empty brass screw on the switch. Connect the two white wires.


11. Run cable from the first fan to the second. At the first junction box, attach the black wire coming from the switch to the black wire leading to the first fan and to the black wire leading to the second fan. At the first junction box, attach the white wires together.


12. Connect the black and white wires at the second junction box to the fan.


13. Attach the fans to the brace bar according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Tags: black wire, cable from, first junction, from switch, service panel

Hide Gaps Around A Ceiling Light Box

Ceiling light boxes are necessary when installing a hanging light fixture, such as a chandelier or ceiling fan. The process involves cutting a hole in the ceiling that accommodates the electrical box. However, sometimes the measurement isn't exact or a slightly larger hole was necessary to shimmy the electrical box in place. Either way, it is crucial to fill the gap between the ceiling light box and surrounding ceiling. This is accomplished without the need for expensive, specialized products.


Instructions








1. Slip on a pair of sturdy work gloves before pulling back the trigger of a caulking gun and loading it with silicone caulk. Use a caulk tinted to closely match the ceiling's color or a clear product to create a less-noticeable finished product.


2. Ascend a step ladder and run a bead of caulk around the perimeter of the ceiling light box. Avoid moving the caulking gun too quickly, as this creates an ineffectively thin bead. Alternately, moving too slowly creates a bead that's too thick, leaving behind an unsightly mess.


3. Remove your work gloves and run your finger lightly across the silicone caulk bead to create a flat surface. Dampen a rag with mineral spirits to wipe away any extraneous caulk from the ceiling or light box.


4. Remove your work gloves and run your finger lightly across the silicone caulk bead to create a flat surface. Dampen a rag with mineral spirits to wipe away any extraneous caulk from the ceiling or light box.

Tags: silicone caulk, work gloves, your work gloves, across silicone, across silicone caulk, away extraneous

Monday, June 25, 2012

Measure A Downrod For A Ceiling Fan

A ceiling fan is designed to circulate the air in a room, having a cooling effect in the summer. In the winter, they push the warm air down from the ceiling; keeping the warm air in the area it is needed. Installing a ceiling fan at the proper height is so important for you to benefit from the job the ceiling fan is designed to perform. Hang the fan too high and you won't feel the effects of the fan blades. Hang the fan too low and your forehead could feel the effects of the blade.


Instructions


1. Measure the height of your ceiling. Use a tape measure and measure from the floor to the ceiling where you want to install your ceiling fan.








2. Measure the depth of your ceiling fan. Measure up from the blades to the top of the ceiling fan motor housing. Not all ceiling fans are designed the same and knowing this measurement will allow you to hang your fan at the appropriate height, especially if it measures over 12 inches. You can obtain this measurement from the location you purchased your ceiling fan if your fan is not assembled.


3. Obtain the downrod length for your ceiling fan. The suggested height for a ceiling fan is to have the blades 8 feet from the floor. Subtract 8 feet from your floor to ceiling measurement and the depth measurement from your ceiling fan.


For example, it your ceiling measures 12 feet you would subtract 8 feet from 12 for a total of 4 feet. Subtract the ceiling fan depth measurement, in this example use 12 inches, leaving a measurement of three feet for your downrod.

Tags: your ceiling, feet from, ceiling designed, ceiling Measure, depth measurement, feel effects

Hang Insulation In Ceiling

In some cases, fiberglass insulation is installed from below the ceiling.


Heat rises, so having insulation in a ceiling is important. A well-insulated ceiling will keep your energy costs down. You have many options when it comes to insulation. The easiest way to hang insulation in a ceiling is to use either fiberglass batts or blown-in loose-fill insulation. Fiberglass batt insulation comes in large rolls covered with a paper face on two sides. Blown-in loose-fill insulation comes in bags. The method you should use depends on your access to the spaces between the studs.








Instructions


1. Choose the type of insulation that suits your project. If the ceiling is open -- if you can see the wood studs from below -- you can use fiberglass batts. If the ceiling is closed and the ceiling has an attic above it, you can insulate the ceiling by installing fiberglass batts or blowing loose-fill insulation into the spaces between the studs on the attic floor. If the ceiling is closed but you have no access from above, then you will have to remove the materials covering the ceiling to access the studs.


2. Install fiberglass batts in an open ceiling by filling the gaps between the studs. Measure and cut each piece of insulation to size. Use a utility knife or heavy-duty shears to cut the fiberglass. For maximum effectiveness, cut the insulation so that it exactly fills the gaps. Place the fiberglass into the gap. Use a heavy-duty staple gun to attach the paper face of the fiberglass to the sides of the wood studs. Do not stuff the fiberglass into place; fiberglass insulation is only effective when it is fluffy and full of air.


3. Install fiberglass insulation in a closed ceiling by filling the spaces between the ceiling studs from the attic above. Cut each piece to size and lay it between the studs. There is no need to staple it. Do not compress the fiberglass insulation as you install it. For spaces that require multiple pieces, butt the ends of the pieces against each other.


4. Install blown-in loose-fill insulation by renting an insulation blower or hiring a professional insulation company. If you decide to rent a blower, follow the manufacturer's instructions for mixing the loose-fill material. Then set up the blower according to its manual. Blow a thick layer of insulation in between the studs. Stop when you reach the insulation manufacturer's recommended density of coverage.

Tags: between studs, fiberglass batts, fiberglass insulation, loose-fill insulation, spaces between

Hang Party Decorations From The Ceiling

Hang balloons and streamers from the ceiling for a party.


When the party calls for decking the halls with hanging decorations, look to your ceiling. Because the balloons, streamers and ribbons will all need to come down after the festivities, put them up with temporary hanging solutions. Using temporary hangers will ensure that the stickiness of the hangers will not harm or mar your ceiling surface when you remove the party decor.


Instructions


1. Wipe the ceiling surface with the cleaning cloth to remove any dust or cobwebs. By removing dust, you ensure that the adhesive hooks affix securely to the ceiling


2. Affix the adhesive surface to the back of the hook surface by removing the adhesive backing and pressing it firmly, following manufacturer instructions.


3. Remove the adhesive backing that remains on the outside edge of the adhesive on the back of the hook.








4. Press the hook firmly onto the ceiling in the location where you wish to hang the party decorations. Follow manufacturer instructions carefully as you affix the hook -- you may need to place pressure on the hook for a specific length of time to ensure a secure seal.








5. Wait for about one hour before using the hooks.


6. Hang the streamers, danglers, balloons or banners from the hooks to decorate for the party.


7. Remove the hooks from the ceiling after the party ends. Grasp the adhesive tab extending out from each hook and pull it away from the hook while holding the hook firmly with your other hand. The hook should separate from the ceiling.

Tags: adhesive backing, back hook, balloons streamers, ceiling surface, ensure that

Friday, June 22, 2012

Tips On Painting Ceilings With Texture

Painting over previously textured ceilings can brighten up a dull ceiling. Painting over "popcorn" textured ceilings can be done to prolong the life of the investment. Ceilings that are textured with joint compound can also be painted to create a fresh look and cover any stains. Or, if you have a flat ceiling, paints are available that add texture by simply applying them.


Preparation


For all ceilings, clean any cobwebs from the corners with a broom or vacuum.


Fill holes in a ceiling with joint compound. Use a Spackle knife to push joint compound into a hole, and allow a little bit over the hole but not more than about 1/16 inch. The joint compound will shrink as it dries, and allowing a little over the hole will reduce the need for a second coat. Allow the joint compound to dry thoroughly. Use a damp sponge instead of sandpaper to level the joint compound to eliminate dust.


To prepare ceilings with a popcorn medium, dab a bit of joint compound in any holes. Use a spray product available in most home improvement stores to re-create the popcorn texture on any bare or patched areas.


Cover edges of light fixtures, ceiling fans and other obstacles with painter's or masking tape. For textured ceilings, you might even want to remove the plate that is against the ceiling so you can paint under it. If you are not good at painting a straight line and don't want to buy an edging brush, apply a strip of painter's tape on the top of the walls all the way around the room to create a straight edge for the ceiling paint. Do not use masking tape for the walls; it will pull off the paint on the walls.


Prime, Apply Texture and Paint








Ceilings with stains, ceilings that have previously been painted with color and ceilings with popcorn texture should be primed prior to painting, after the joint compound and popcorn patches are dry. Use a brush to cut in around the perimeter and around fixtures. Use a roller for all open areas. Use a thick-napped roller on popcorn ceilings.


A previously textured ceiling can be painted with a thick-napped roller and a paintbrush when the primer coat has dried. Texture can be added to a smooth ceiling with specially designed paint products or by adding sand to paint. It is not recommended to color ready-mixed textured paint prior to application. Apply textured paint to ceilings 1/16 to 1/8 inches thick in 4-foot-by-4-foot sections. If the roller is clumping the textured paint, it is drying top quickly. Use a mister to dampen the textured paint in the tray. Do not add too much water, or the textured paint will become too thin. There will be a risk of the textured paint bubbling and reduced adhesion to the primer, resulting in cracks and peeling. Keep the lid on the remaining textured paint to keep it from drying out.


When the textured paint on the ceiling is thoroughly dry, finish by painting with a top coat of colored or white paint.

Tags: joint compound, textured paint, textured ceilings, ceiling paint, ceiling with, ceilings with, ceilings with popcorn

Thursday, June 21, 2012

Convert Existing An Bathroom For Handicapped Use

Residential bathrooms pose great dangers for people whose abilities are limited. The two biggest bathroom safety hazards are falling and inappropriate access to drugs. A person whose mobility and balance are compromised is very likely to sustain serious injury from a fall in a slippery bathroom. Someone suffering from Alzheimer's disease can mistakenly ingest potentially lethal prescription drugs if they're not properly secured. A frail person can accidentally scald herself if the hot water temperature isn't regulated. You can modify bathrooms for handicapped access without costly remodeling.








Instructions








1. Modify the under-sink cabinet to a height of 28 to 34 inches from the floor and 36-inches wide to give ample wheelchair access. Replace standard bathroom door hinges with offset hinges, increasing the door opening width by 2 inches. Replace the existing doorknob with one that doesn't lock to prevent the patient locking himself inside. Securely attach grab bars inside the shower, at the toilet, and near sink and counter.


2. Install the anti-scald valve kit according to product instructions. Change out the shower and sink faucets and replace with single-lever faucets that are easier to use. Wrap any exposed under-sink pipes with protective covering to guard against burns. Install the new shower nozzle and verify that the extension hose is long enough to accommodate the reach of a caregiver providing assistance to the patient.


3. Attach childproof latches onto every cabinet door. Mount bath products dispenser in the shower. Place a nonskid mat and shower bench inside the shower and the bath rug just outside the shower door. Apply anti-skid strips around toilet, sink and shower areas of existing bathroom flooring. Switch to brighter light bulbs, at least 100 watts.

Tags: inside shower

Removing Paint From Wood Molding

Removing Paint From Wood Molding


What Type of Paint


Knowing what you are removing helps to decide what type of remover to use and do it. There are latex and oil-based paints, lacquers and old lead paint, just to name a few. If you are dealing with any paint made before 1978 it could contain lead. Lead can cause serious health problems and the removal of lead paint should be done with care. A respirator should be worn at all times and the removal should never be done by sanding. If you have to remove the paint indoors, cover all furniture and floors with plastic sheeting and keep the area well ventilated. If you are unsure if the paint contains lead, you can get a lead testing kit at most hardware and home improvement stores. If you don't test, but are still unsure, take all the necessary precautions as if it were lead paint.


Stripping Products


You can spend hours in the paint removal aisles deciding what type of product to use. If you know what type of paint it is you are trying to remove, then you will have less trouble deciding which stripper to use, as most of them are very specific to certain types of finishes.


Most paint strippers are very toxic and the fumes alone can make you wish you never started the project. There are a couple of products that are safer to use and don't have that horrible smell. PeelAway paint strippers have products for every kind of paint and finish. Some of its products are great for removing lead paint and have very little irritants in them. Wearing gloves, protective eyewear and a respirator is still the best way to assure that you aren't harmed by the stripper or the lead paint. Another "green" paint remover is Krud Kutter. They make cleaning products, adhesive removers and paint removers that are not harmful to the environment. These are the best products to start with if you are worried about working with chemicals. You will also need various rags, scrapers and denatured alcohol works wonders for getting rid of residue, if you can handle the smell.








Stripping the Wood


Most of the time when you are stripping molding, it is left in place. For this reason, you would want to use a gel or cream type stripper. Liquids will make a mess and be very hard to work with. All strippers are different, so care must be taken to read the manufacturer's directions on use it and how long to leave it on before you start to scrape off the paint.


If you have a nice flat or even a slightly curved molding, a regular scraper will be fine. But if you're dealing with a very decorative piece, it just became a little more difficult. PeelAway 7 paint stripper is a cream applied with a plastic utensil that looks like a spatula. Then a paper covering goes over the cream and sits overnight. The next day you just peel off the paper and most of the paint comes with it. This works well with multiple layers of paint, too.


Sometimes it is necessary to use picks to get into the deep detailing of the molding. After the paint is removed with any paint stripper, you can get the residue off with denatured alcohol. When the piece is dry, you can use a small strip of sandpaper to carefully remove any paint that hasn't come off. If you are sure the paint is not a lead paint, you can use a sander on any molding to remove paint. Just keep your area contained so the dust does not travel all through your home and wear a respirator. You don't want to breathe it even if it isn't filled with lead. Stripping molding takes time, a lot of time. So be prepared for the long haul and bring along your patience.

Tags: lead paint, remove paint, dealing with, denatured alcohol, From Wood

What Do Pipes Sticking Through Your Drop Ceiling

What should you do with pipes that stick out from your suspended ceiling?


If you have pipes that stick down through your drop ceiling that are an eyesore, then you will want to do something about the situation. In most cases you can create a look that uses the pipes as decoration rather than having that look of an incomplete ceiling. Think of the pipes as a decorating opportunity.


Repair the Ceiling


There may be reasons why the drop ceiling left pipes exposed. It could be that to cover the pipes would block out some of the windows in the room, or it just may have been a choice made by the previous occupant. Lower the ceiling and cover the pipes using the same ceiling grid work and panels as you have now, replacing only the panels with the holes cut in them. As long as the lowered ceiling does not make the room too short or block some other feature of the room you enjoy, then this is a practical solution. A lower ceiling will also help lower your energy costs, as it will reduce the amount of space that would need to be heated by a furnace and cooled by an air conditioner.








Paint


Check that the pipes are not constantly hot. If the pipe is usually room temperature, then consider painting it. Use metal paint, and put a coat of primer on the pipe before you put on the color. This will take the pipe from being an eyesore to being a decoration in the room. You can paint it the same color as the wood trim in the room, or you can paint it the color of the walls. You could also use metallic silver or gold paint to make the pipe stand out.


Wrap It








If the pipe is bare, consider wrapping it in paper-coated pipe insulation. When it is wrapped in insulation, you can cover it in decorative wallpaper, paint designs on it or paint it to match the room. (Paint on paper-coated insulation will look different than one painted with metal paint.) You could also decorate the insulation with pictures and famous quotes as well.

Tags: block some, could also, cover pipes, drop ceiling, metal paint, pipes that, pipes that stick

Wednesday, June 20, 2012

Decorate A Bathroom In A Lodge Theme







If you are a outdoor enthusiast and would love to bring the outdoors in, but do not know where to start in the decorating process, a bathroom is a great place to start. Perhaps the woodsy theme of a lodge does not match the rest of your home's decor, give your man a room of his own with his very own lodge style bathroom!


Instructions


1. The first thing that you think of when you think of a "lodge" is a hunting or fishing retreat. Close your eyes and think of what you would find in a professionally decorated hunting lodge. What are the first things that come to mind: mounted animal heads, mounted fish, cedar logs, pictures of wildlife? All of those things are the great beginnings of a "lodge-inspired" room.


2. Paint the walls a deep color. Color combinations that work great in a lodge inspired room are: forest green and mocha (dark brown), navy blue, taupe, or brick. You can either chose between two of colors that you like best or work with all five. Paint the walls a solid color. It is absolutely fine to paint a small space in a dark color, just make sure that all of the walls are of the same color. When you start painting opposite walls in coordinating colors or if you use a pattern wallpaper, you tend to "close in" the room.


3. Accessorize. When the paint dries it is time to accessorize! By doing an online search for "lodge accessories" is a great place to get ideas, even if you buy from that source or not. If you take a trip to your local craft store, such as Michael's, Hobby Lobby or even the craft section of Wal-mart, you will find great lodge accessories, such as wildlife cut-outs. Silhouettes of bears, deer, or moose or great for wall decor. Most of the time, these cut-outs will be natural wood. Buy paint and paint away; black paint for the bears, brown for the deer or moose. Do not worry about being technical with the details such as eyes and hooves, just simply paint the entire wooden cut-out the same uniform color.


4. Details. For the new look of the bathroom, buy new towels and rugs in the coordinating colors. It is important to stick with solids versus trying to locate themed towels. If you find a shower curtain that carries the theme, that is wonderful, but if not, no need to worry. You are really striving for the detail to be in the accessories, that is what will make the room appear rich in character. A trout basket is a great storage for the washcloths or toiletries. It even looks great sitting on the counter alone. A simple wicker basket can serve as a trash can.


5. Add final touches. Locating prints of wildlife or enlarging actual photos make great artwork for the bathroom. Remember when locating a frame, stay with the theme of outdoor and "wood". Stay away from shiny frames or anything that has a contemporary look to it.








6. If the bathroom includes a linen closet, talk to someone at your local home improvement store to find out what you will need in order to create a cedar lined closet. Some larger home improvement stores may have a pre-packaged kit to aid in your process.

Tags: coordinating colors, deer moose, great lodge, great place, home improvement, lodge accessories

Problems With Kitchens With Drop Ceiling Lighting

Drop ceiling lighting brings more light into your kitchen and adds a decorative touch to the space. Before adding new lighting to your kitchen, consider the different problems that you might encounter. Drop ceilings contain small panels that sit inside a frame and lower the overall height of the room. Other problems you might come across include issues with decorating and costs.


Size Issues


When a room has a drop ceiling, the ceiling immediately lowers the overall height of the room by several inches or feet, depending on the installation. If you add lights to the already low ceiling, you may encounter problems with sizing. The lights can actually make the room feel even smaller because they reflect off the floor and bounce around the enclosed space since they do not have as much room as they did before. Choosing pendant lights or lights that hang below the drop ceiling also has size issues; the lights hang low, and you risk bumping your head against them. Depending on the overall height of the ceiling and the length of the lights, even shorter people may have problems.


Decorative Problems


Don't forget the decorative aspect when adding drop ceiling lights to your kitchen. Fluorescent lights and pendant lights have a tendency to look dated after a few years of use. The popular trends or designs of today may not look as nice later. If you opt for lighting fixtures, choose a classic or traditional design that fits the style of the kitchen.


Installation Issues








Installing lights into your dropped ceiling is difficult, especially if you opt for lights that fit inside or behind the ceiling panels. You must cut small areas into the panels and install the lights into each panel. The lights run on the electric system in your house and, if the room does not have the correct wiring, you are responsible for installing the proper wiring. For example, the original kitchen design may feature a single overhead light while you need multiple lights on the drop ceiling.


Cost Prohibition


One of the problems you might encounter with drop ceiling lighting involves the cost. The cost of a single light may reach $100, and one light is not enough for the entire kitchen. Even if you use only four lights in the kitchen, the cost adds up. Rewiring your home for the lights or changing the electric system adds even more to your total cost.

Tags: drop ceiling, overall height, your kitchen, ceiling lighting, electric system, height room, into your

Tuesday, June 19, 2012

Design A Home For A Handicapped Person

For a handicapped person, moving comfortably and freely inside the home can present a challenge. If the home wasn't originally designed to be handicapped-friendly, even the simplest chores can be difficult, if not impossible, making the handicapped person feel helpless and dependent on others. Fortunately, you can design a home or modify an existing one so it's accessible for the handicapped, giving the disabled individual increased mobility and independence.


Instructions


1. Design the front door of the house and inside doors to be 34 to 36 inches wide to allow passage of a wheelchair. Make the doorways in the smaller rooms at least 60 inches so the wheelchair will be able to make a comfortable turn. Install doors with swing-away hinges if it's not possible to widen the doorways.


2. Install an elevated toilet in the bathroom that has an adjustable seat. Hang grab bars along the walls on either side of the toilet to make standing and sitting easier for the handicapped person. Install a transfer or roll-in shower that contains a hand-held attachment. Place a bench or chair in the shower for the person to sit on while he bathes himself. Install a non-slip mat or tiles on the bathroom floor and also inside the shower.


3. Remove any lower cabinet doors under the kitchen sink and work counter to permit a wheelchair user to easily roll up close to the counter for food preparation. Install low kitchen cabinets that are no higher than 30 inches for easy access. Use D-shaped drawer and cabinet pulls instead of traditional round knobs, which are more difficult for the handicapped to grip easily. Install the kitchen sink, refrigerator, stove and oven at accessible heights.


4. Install access ramps, grab bars and hand rails along any areas where there are steps, both inside and outside the house. The ramp should slope gently. An elevator can be installed inside a house to take the handicapped person to the upper floors.








5. Install light switches, electrical outlets, thermostats and other electrical and environmental controls at locations in the home within easy reach for a handicapped person.


6. Install casement windows that are easy for a handicapped person to open and close with a crank. Select simple window coverings that stay out of the way while the window crank is being operated.

Tags: handicapped person, grab bars, handicapped person Install, Install kitchen, kitchen sink, person Install

Do Tongue & Groove Ceilings In A Vaulted Ceiling

Do Tongue & Groove Ceilings in a Vaulted Ceiling


Tongue and groove ceiling planks are relatively easy to install. They're made of light wood in planks long enough to span the entire ceiling, so all you have to do is mark out the joists (the wood beams inside the ceiling) to nail them to something solid. Installing wood on a vaulted ceiling is more complicated because you have to cut the boards at an angle to match the angle of the ceiling. A table saw with a tilt-action blade will help get the angle right.


Instructions


1. Locate the ceiling joists using your electronic stud locator. Use your pencil and level to mark out lines indicating the position of each joist.


2. Measure the length of the ceiling alongside the wall where you want to start. (It must be perpendicular to the marked joists.) Mark the measurement on a piece of ceiling planking. Cut the plank to size on your miter saw.








3. Use your adjustable square to find the angle of the ceiling relative to the wall by holding the square against the wall and adjusting it to fit against the ceiling.


4. Tilt the blade of your table saw to the same angle that you found on the ceiling. Feed the first plank through the table saw, cutting off just enough of the grooved side of it to accommodate the angle.


5. Hold the board to the ceiling with the cut side facing the wall. It should mimic the angle of the wall. Leave a 3/8-inch gap from the edge of the cut board to the wall to allow the wood to expand with environmental changes. (Ceiling trim will cover the gap.)


6. Shoot two nails through the face of the board at each point where it intersects with a joist using your trim nailer.


7. Cut the next board to size on your miter saw. Connect it to the side of the first one, by its tongue and groove. Shoot nails through side of the board at each intersection with a joist putting in the nails at an upward angle.


8. Nail the rest of the boards in the same manner. At the peak, again find the angle and cut it lengthwise on the table saw.


9. Install the wood on the other half of the vaulted ceiling in the same manner. Hang your ceiling trim around the edges of the ceiling and across the peak.

Tags: angle ceiling, board each, Ceilings Vaulted, Ceilings Vaulted Ceiling, find angle

Remodel A Bathroom For Wheelchairs

Being in wheelchair changes the way you interact with the world, making some tasks difficult or impossible. Bathroom access is especially tough, with small doors, tiny interiors and unwelcoming features. If you're planning a bathroom remodel, incorporate features that make it easier for a wheelchair occupant to maneuver.


Instructions








1. Replace the current bathroom door with one that meets the standards of the Americans With Disabilities Act, or ADA. A door 36 inches wide provides ample space for a wheelchair to pass through. Install the door so it swings outward, not inward.


2. Enlarge the bathroom until you have at least 60 inches of space in the center of the room to maneuver a wheelchair. This may entail a major structural remodeling to move an existing bathroom wall. Consult a reputable builder to determine the safest way to enlarge the bathroom during the remodel process.








3. Install a roll-through shower that allows a wheelchair occupant to transfer to a shower chair or use a special shower wheelchair. ADA showers are available from plumbing suppliers, or you can fashion a custom shower wide enough for a wheelchair to enter.


4. Raise the height of the commode for easy transfer from a wheelchair. Install transfer bars on the sides of the commode if the wheelchair occupant can use his arms to move himself from one seat to another. Otherwise, provide enough room beside the toilet to use a handicapped lift.


5. Mount sinks on the wall so a wheelchair user can access them easily. Use faucet levers and low mirrors to make grooming a snap. Provide ample drawer storage at a reachable height to stash cosmetics and medicine. Consider a drawer lock if children have access to the bathroom.

Tags: wheelchair occupant

Monday, June 18, 2012

Access A Cable Tray

Access to cable trays can depend on the type of tray used.








Cable trays serve to protect and streamline the running of electrical and communications cabling throughout office and industrial buildings, offering an effective way to flexibly wire these buildings for potential future uses. Often suspended from the ceiling, cable trays can be made from a variety of materials, from metals to plastics, and can be of different types, including wire mesh and solid enclosures. Ease of access to the tray depends on its type and layout.


Instructions


1. Open the ladder adjacent to the cable tray and ascend it.


2. Identify the type of cable tray. If it is a wire mesh tray, access can usually be gained through the mesh. If the cables are inaccessible due to the mesh being too tight or the tray being solid, locate the attachment points of the cable tray. These are often found along the wall, at a junction where the tray makes a turn.


3. Use the drill or a screwdriver to remove the screws that attach the section of the tray to the wall or adjacent sections. If the tray section is too long to effectively remove or access the cable at the desired location, use a pair of metal shears to carefully cut through the cable tray, providing direct access to the desired cables.

Tags: cable tray, cable trays, wire mesh

Decorate Very Large Blank Walls With Vaulted Ceilings

Vaulted ceilings make a room feel more spacious but empty without proper decorations.


Some houses, especially old, cathedral-looking homes, have vaulted ceilings that create large walls you'll need to decorate. Because the walls are so tall, the room often appears empty without the proper size and amount of decorations. Unlike standard walls that you can sufficiently decorate with a picture or shelf, large walls require strategic placement of furniture, artwork, lighting and paint. A few pictures or a bookcase could mean the difference in a wall that's blank and bland and one that's filled and eye-popping.








Instructions


1. Place furniture that's tall or wide against each large wall. Large furniture immediately makes the wall appear smaller. Ideas include moving a sectional couch against the wall and placing a tall bookshelf next to the couch, putting an entertainment center against the wall, and fitting a computer desk along the wall.








2. Hang large artwork along each large wall. Framed artwork is the simplest way to cover a large wall, but it's also easy to go overboard. Limit the largest walls to about three to four pieces of art. You want the artwork to appear as if it fits with the wall, not as if it's intentionally trying to cover up space. To complement the artwork, hang other items, such as a clock, TV or pennant.


3. Attach shelves to your large walls. Shelves not only serve as small storage spaces but also enable you to cut down on the perceived size of a wall. To cover up more wall space, make sure your shelves aren't level with one another.


4. Illuminate your room by relying on floor lamps and table lamps. Lights that are closer to the ground typically make a room feel smaller. Ceiling lights and sconces make the room feel larger, because the light is projected down from above.


5. Paint your largest wall to essentially shrink the room. Home designer Lizzie Lander suggests painting the wall a solid dark color or separating the wall into three colors with the middle color dark and the outside colors lighter.

Tags: large wall, large walls, make room, make room feel, room feel, against wall

Friday, June 15, 2012

Free Living Room Design Ideas

Update your living room to keep up with your family.


Living rooms are formal, informal, used everyday or only on special occasions. Their size ranges from a small room off the entry room to hundreds of square feet. Whatever your type of living room, changes in your family and lifestyle call for rethinking the design.


Extra Storage


Very few homeowners think they have enough storage. When designing your living room, add in storage wherever possible. Use built-in cabinets between windows to take advantage of otherwise wasted space. An ottoman adds comfort to your seating arrangement. Find one that flips open to reveal a compartment to store blankets. Place hinged baskets underneath the entryway table to hide magazines, games and reading material.


Create Activity Areas


Think about who uses your living room and for what purposes. Create areas that fulfill those purposes. Television and movie watching require comfortable seating, tables to put a drink on and enough distance between the screen and the seats for appropriate viewing. A large-screen TV needs to be viewed from a greater distance than a portable, small TV. Set up an area for game playing with chairs and tables. A reading nook requires lighting that won't interfere with the rest of the people in the room.


Lighting


Lighting is often overlooked as a design idea. Living rooms require ambient light. That's light that fills the room, like sunlight coming through a window, but isn't for any specific purpose. Task lighting is lighting that's required to complete a task, such as a reading lamp or lighting for a game table. Focus lighting brings the eye to an element within the room. It could be on a painting, piece of artwork or a plant. Lighting, no matter what kind, should not create harsh shadows. Turn on the television and lighting within the living room to see if the TV is reflecting any light back to the viewer.








Seasonal Changes


Think of the living room walls, rugs and major pieces of furniture as a blank canvas. Keep them in neutral tones. Change out the accessories with the seasons. Let's say your color scheme is green and blue. Keep the sofa and chairs in shades of beige, taupe and off-white. In the spring use light green toss pillows, cornflower blue accessories and bring in a touch of yellow. When summer comes take out the green and add darker blue accessories. In the fall bring the green back in and remove the yellow. Substitute burnt orange, russet and golds.

Tags: living room, your living, your living room, blue accessories, lighting that

Kitchen Apple Themed Decorating Ideas

Build your apple-themed kitchen around red, green, and yellow.


A kitchen featuring an apple theme is simple yet stylish. Start by painting your kitchen in traditional apple colors: red, green, and yellow. Then add whimsical borders and accessories to finish the look.


Apple Tree








Paint or stencil an apple tree with red or green apples on an available wall in your kitchen. You can also paint miniature apple trees along the top border of your kitchen or in various places on the walls.


Apple Accents


Add accents such as hand towels, pot holders, cookie jars, and refrigerator magnets that feature apples. Choose bright red or light green small appliances, such as toasters or mixers. Hang apple artwork or framed photos of apples.


Apple Border


An apple border is a simple way to create an apple-themed kitchen. Paint your walls light yellow or light green, and paint or stencil red apples along the border of the walls just below the ceiling. You can even make your own apple stamps by cutting apples in half, pressing them into paint, and then pressing them against the wall to leave a perfect apple imprint. Alternatively, hang an apple wallpaper border instead.

Tags: your kitchen, along border, apple-themed kitchen, green yellow, light green, pressing them

Thursday, June 14, 2012

Make Moulding

One Bit Cuts








You can make factory-quality moulding using a good router table and the right bits. Consider the many shapes and sizes of router bits designed to make mouldings before settling on one set. In some cases, a moulding design requires just one bit but elaborate moulding is made from a set of bits. Keep plenty of wood on hand for practice and settings.


Instructions








1. Install the first bit suggested by the manufacturer to create the desired moulding. Raise or lower the router as needed. Also, set the fence according to the depth of the router bit. Bits with a deep profile require moving the fence back a little at a time.


2. Remove the first bit and install the second, following manufacturer's instructions as you did with the first one. Be careful: The bits spin fast enough to take the end of your finger off. Turn off the router when you move the fence or make other adjustments.


3. Let the router reach its fastest rotation before running the wood through it. Keep the wood moving at a steady pace to keep the wood from burning.


4. Place the finished moulding under a light and carefully inspect it. Router bits can cause rough spots or splinters that can be difficult to see until the finish is applied.


5. Sand the moulding with fine grade sandpaper. Remember to work the sandpaper in the same direction as the wood grain. Apply thin coats of sanding sealer and rub the moulding with fine steel wool between each coat.

Tags: moulding with, moulding with fine, with fine

Install Recessed Lighting In A Finished Ceiling

Recessed lighting sits between joists in the space above the existing ceiling. The light illuminates the room from a can recessed above the ceiling, so a hole must be cut in the ceiling for the light to show. Recessed ceiling fixtures have suspension arms nailed into the joists above the ceiling, mounting them in place so that the weight of the can doesn't rest on the ceiling itself. To complete this job, you'll need to cut the hole in the ceiling in a space between joists, mount the recessed fixture, wire it, and install the trim bracket. Expect to spend an afternoon on this task.


Instructions


1. Mark the spot in the ceiling for the recessed light, using a pencil.


2. Unwrap a coat hanger so that it is a long, straight line. Jam the sharp end of the coat hanger through the spot you marked on the ceiling. Insert the coat hanger a foot or more through the mark. Leave the coat hanger there and go up to the attic. Look for the coat hanger sticking up from the floor. Check that there's at least 6 inches between the coat hanger and the joists on either side. Otherwise, move the spot so that the suspension arms have enough room to fit between the joists.


3. Return to the room where you inserted the coat hanger and remove the coat hanger. Use the variable-speed drill with the hole saw attached to it to cut a circular hole in the ceiling. The circular hole allows the recessed light to illuminate the room. The hole must be the same diameter as your recessed light, either 4 inches, 5 inches or 6 inches.


4. Place the recessed can over the hole in the attic. Spread the suspension arms out and press the feet into the nearby joists. Have a friend check that the can lines up with the hole in the room below. Use the hammer to nail in the feet of the suspension arms to the ceiling joists.


5. Wire the recessed can to the existing junction box, following the manufacturer's directions. In general, you'll wire the white and black wires from the junction box to the corresponding wires in the housing of the can. Wire the green or bare ground wire to the corresponding color from the can, or, if there isn't one, wire it to the can itself.


6. Cover the can with new insulation, unless the manufacturer's instructions specify that the can should not be near insulation.


7. Install the lighting trim kit to the can in the room below. This requires using a pen to notch the suspension hook onto the can's mounting holes.


8. Screw in a bulb and turn on the light.

Tags: coat hanger, suspension arms, between joists, recessed light, above ceiling, ceiling light, circular hole

Wednesday, June 13, 2012

Refinish Ceilings

If you're tired of that plain plaster or drywall ceiling in your living room or study, and you want something that can be a showcase, consider a wood ceiling. It installs in the same way as wood flooring, with tongue-and-groove milling holding the boards together, and can go right over the existing ceiling. Let the wood planks sit in the room for a week beforehand to acclimate to the environment.


Instructions


1. Use an electronic studfinder to find and mark each ceiling joist within the ceiling (if the joists aren't exposed). Use your level and a pencil to mark the lines across the ceiling showing where the joists are.


2. Measure the length of the ceiling at the edge where you want to start, which has to be perpendicular to the joists.


3. Cut the first piece of wood ceiling board to that length on a miter saw.


4. Hold the board to the ceiling, at the edge of it, with the grooved side of the board facing the wall and sitting half an inch out from it. Secure the board by shooting nails straight up through the board face at each point it crosses a joist. Use two nails per joist.


5. Cut the next wood board to size and set it in place alongside the first board. Lock the tongue and groove sides tightly together, pressing them in as far as they will go. Secure the second board by shooting a nail through the edge, at an inward angle, at each joist.


6. Repeat for each board, building across the ceiling. Cut the final board along its length to fit against the far wall with a ½ inch gap there. Ceiling trim will cover the gaps.

Tags: across ceiling, board shooting, ceiling edge, wood ceiling

Design A Basement Bathroom







Add a basement bathroom with a walk-out slider.


Adding a bathroom to your home often provides extra value and function. Sometimes the easiest place to add a bathroom is in your basement. When designing your basement bathroom, you'll need to consider the special needs of basement construction. Because a basement is below grade, there are likely to be plumbing concerns that may involve special sump pumps and upgrades. It is also a good idea to plan for additional light so that the bathroom will feel spacious and airy. With some good planning, your basement bathroom can become a spa-like destination that adds to the comfort and usability of your entire home.


Instructions


1. Hire a plumber, inspector or architect to examine your basement for hidden plumbing or construction issues. It is also a good idea to ask your local building or planning office if you are allowed to add a bathroom and what permits or costs will be involved.


2. Measure the entire basement using a tape measure. Transfer the measurements to a large sheet of 1/4-inch graph paper. Mark the location of all windows, doors, walls, fixtures, pipes, utilities or furnaces, drains, stairs, niches, electrical outlets, heating and air conditioning ducts and plumbing fixtures. Keep in mind that walls are at least 3-1/2 inches thick, so your wall lines will need to be about 1/16-inch thick. Mark the locations of all door swings, cabinets and build-ins.


3. Tape tracing paper over your basement floor plan. Draw in the location where you want to install the bathroom. A minimum-size full bath is approximately 6 feet by 8 feet. Design your bathroom to include all of the features that you want. A larger bath may have a jetted tub with a stand-up shower, double sinks, a heated floor and a commode behind its own privacy wall.


4. Add the location of lights, fixtures and fittings. If your basement has low ceilings, you may need to use wall sconces and recessed lights. Try sketching at least four or five designs. Position the entry door at different locations. Expand and reduce the size of the bathroom to see how it might work with different features.


5. Redraw your final design so that your tracing paper shows the relationship with the rest of the basement. You might even make a complete basement floor plan on tracing paper, indicating the size of rooms, doors, windows, tubs, showers and more. This plan can be photocopied when you discuss your design with the building department, architect, contractor, plumber and electrician.

Tags: your basement, basement bathroom, tracing paper, also good, also good idea

Monday, June 11, 2012

Make A Lamp Shade For A Strip Bar Light

Strip bar lights were common light fixtures in bathrooms during the 70s. This type of light is particularly good for applying makeup since the even spacing of the bulbs reduce shadows. These fixtures frequently have exposed lightbulbs that emerge from a flat bar frame that is usually chrome or brass. Exposed lightbulbs create a stark modernistic appearance that doesn't match well with some modern decor styles. But, because the lightbulbs are often spaced as much as 10 inches apart, these fixtures are a perfect candidate for lampshade makeovers.


Instructions


1. Cut a piece of grosgrain ribbon the height of the end rib. Run a small bead of lampshade glue along the rib and center the length of the ribbon on the wire.


2. Fold the ribbon around the wire and center it. Open the ends of the ribbon and run a second small bead of glue along the inside of the ribbon. Press the ribbon closed. This should look like the outer wire on the side of the shield, wrapped in ribbon with the ends of the ribbon toward the inside. Use bulldog clamps along the wire to hold the ribbon in position for the glue to dry. Repeat this for the other outside rib wire.


3. Place a drop of glue on the bottom side of the bottom wire close to one of the ends you just covered. Position the end of the grosgrain ribbon in the glue with the sides of the ribbon running vertically up the backside of the lampshade. The ribbon will wrap the top wire and return to cover where it started.


4. Angle the ribbon slightly as it crosses up the back of the lampshade for the second time. Add a drop of glue on the top and bottom wires every three or four wraps just to hold the ribbon in place. Continue till you reach the other already covered end wire and finish at the bottom wire with a little more glue. Place bulldog clips along the wire edges until the glue dries (six to eight hours).


5. Remove the clips and wrap (counter clockwise) the lampshade edges in one continuous grosgrain ribbon starting on the bottom right and at least one inch from the corner. Carefully miter the corners and glue the ribbon to both sides of the frame for a clean look. Overlap where you started and finish at the corner being careful to miter it perfectly. (A miter is the joint that forms the corner. Each corner piece is typically at a 45 degree angle so that together they form a 90 degree corner.)








6. Clip the trim and allow the lampshade to dry overnight. Remove the clips and add additional trim if you wish.

Tags: grosgrain ribbon, along wire, bottom wire, drop glue, drop glue bottom, ends ribbon, glue along

Mount A Light Fixture On A Surface

A light fixture, such as one designed for ceilings, can be installed using either an old or a new electrical box to secure the fixture's mounting bracket. Find a light fixture that is appropriate for the room, be it a bathroom or bedroom. Replacing an old fixture means you will be able to use an existing switch to turn the light on and off.


Instructions


1. Turn off the power to the room where you are working by turning off the appropriate circuit at the circuit box.


2. Locate the electrical box in the ceiling.


3. Remove the existing fixture, if one is present, to access the electrical wires. Use a screwdriver to remove the screws used to secure the fixture to the ceiling.








4. Disconnect the electrical wires by removing the wire covers and then untwisting the wires.


5. Place the mounting plate, with the threaded tube, over the screw holes in the electrical box.


6. Insert screws into the holes and secure them with a screwdriver or power drill.


7. Twist the ground wire around the green screw that is on the mounting bracket. Loosen the screw with a screwdriver and then bend the wire around the screw.








8. Twist the black wires together and place a wire cover over the wires.


9. Repeat the previous step for the white wires.


10. Insert the light fixture into the threaded tube so that it sits flush with the surface of the ceiling.


11. Place a washer on the tube and run it up to the fixture.


12. Place the nut on the threaded tube and tighten the nut by had as far as you can. Then switch to a wrench if necessary.


13. Install light bulbs into the sockets and place the cover over the fixture.


14. Turn the power back on to complete the project and to test the light.

Tags: threaded tube, cover over, electrical wires, light fixture, mounting bracket

Friday, June 8, 2012

Cut Beveled Suspended Ceiling Tiles

Cutting a beveled tile removes the beveled edging.


Cutting a beveled ceiling tile ruins the beveled edge along the cut line and removes the flange, the small lip at the tile's edge that sits on the grid rails allowing the tile a flush fit on the grid. Cutting a new beveled edge isn't necessary, as the wall along the cut hides that side of the tile from view. What is required is recreating the flanged edge. Without the flange, the tile does not sit properly in the grid rail, creating a visible gap between the bottom of the tile and the rails.


Instructions


1. Measure the partial ceiling grid space from the raised edge of one side of the grid space to the raised edge on the opposite side on the top of the grid above the ceiling surface. Record the measurement, and then measure the space between the other two grid edges and record that as well.


2. Use the grid space measurements to mark the dimensions of the partial tile onto the finished side of the tile. Only mark two cutting lines at most for achieving the desired tile size, leaving two or three sides of the tile uncut, depending on the size needed. Use a straightedge placed onto the tile's rear at the marked distances making your pencil cutting line as straight as possible.


3. Cut the tile along the marked line by placing the straightedge on the line. Use it as a guide for scoring the tile with a utility knife. Cut all the way through the tile by repeatedly passing the knife along the scored line until you part the tile pieces.








4. Place the flange of an uncut panel over the cut edge of the partial panel until the flange's rear edge is flush against the panel edge. Mark the edge of the uncut panel with the pencil where it overhangs the partial panel. Remove the full panel.


5. Cut through the partial panel along the marked line using small light passes until you've cut a line through half of the panel's depth. Turn the knife onto its side and make a cut through the cut side of the panel, placing the cut at the same level as the cut of the factory-made flange on the uncut panel edges. Cut through the panel until you reach the cut's base that you made in the panel's face, creating a new flange.








6. Install the cut panel into the partial grid section by lifting it through the opening in the grid and then lowering it onto the grid ledges with the cut edges against the walls of the room.

Tags: Cutting beveled, grid space, partial panel, uncut panel, along marked

Thursday, June 7, 2012

Install A T&G Pine Ceiling

A ``T&G'' (or tongue & groove) pine ceiling uses a similar principle as a tongue & groove floor, with the boards fitted together at the sides by milling that's designed to hold it firmly in place. Since the ceiling won't have to hold the weight of walkers, the boards can be lighter and softer, and don't require special installation tools like floors do. Make sure to use pre-finished or painted boards, as trying to finish a ceiling after it's installed is difficult.


Instructions


1. Use your electronic studfinder to find the ceiling joists. Mark their positions throughout the ceiling, using a level and pencil. You should end up with a series of parallel pencil lines, about 2 feet apart, running across the whole span of the ceiling in one direction.


2. Measure the ceiling along the wall where you want to start the courses of wood planks (it has to be a wall that runs perpendicular to the marked joists). Transfer the measurement to a tongue & groove ceiling plank. Cut the plank on a miter saw at the measurement.


3. Hold up the cut board against the ceiling, along your starting wall, with the ``grooved'' edge of the board facing the wall. Leave a 1/2 inch gap between the plank and the wall, using a 1/2-inch thick board. (This ``expansion gap'' will allow the wood to move with climate changes.)


4. Use your trim nailgun to shoot nails through the board at each point where it intersects a joist. Put two nails at each intersection. Move the 1/2 inch board along the side by the wall as you go, to keep a consistent gap.


5. Measure for the next board and cut it on your miter saw. Place it against the first board, snapping it in place by the tongue & groove edge. Secure the second board by shooting nails through side of the board, at an upward angle, at each point where it crosses a joist.


6. Install the rest of the boards in the same way. Cut the last plank lengthwise on your table saw so it fits against the ending wall with a half-inch gap there.


7. Measure and cut your ceiling molding, and hang it around the edges of the ceiling, cutting it on your miter saw and attaching it with your trim nailer, covering the gap.

Tags: tongue groove, ceiling along, each point, each point where, nails through

Miter Cut Wood Molding

Wood molding cut with a miter saw.


Wood molding finishes the look of a wall, window or door. If you have wood molding to cut, you will need to know make a miter cut. Eliminate the stress of making miter cuts on your wood molding by learning the proper way to make a miter cut.


Instructions


Miter Box Cutting


1. Measure the wood molding to size and mark the measurements on the back of the molding with a pencil.


2. Read the directions that are included with your miter box. Each miter box is a little different. Some offer a larger selection of angles while others only offer 90 degree and 45 degree angles.


3. Set the wood molding into the miter box. The flat edge of the molding should be set against the bottom of the miter box.


4. Use a hand saw to cut along the appropriate angle in the miter box.


Miter Saw Cutting


5. Measure the wood molding to correct size. Mark the measurements on the back of the molding with a pencil.


6. Decide what angle the wood molding should be cut at. Set the angle on the miter saw to match the angle for your wood. If you have questions about setting your miter saw to the correct angle, refer to the directions included with the miter saw.








7. Place the wood molding in place on the miter saw. The flat edge of the molding should sit flat against the table of the saw. Once the molding and saw are both in position, make the miter cut.

Tags: make miter, molding should, molding with, wood molding, wood molding

Redo Bathroom Walls What Materials To Use

Few rooms are as important as a bathroom, so don't give short shrift to yours when it's time for an update. Whether you intend to stay in your home for decades or expect to put your house on the market in the not-too-distant future, keep the value of your house intact and your cleaning tasks down by choosing bathroom wall treatments that offer a dramatic new look. As long as you choose the right medium, there is no need to bust the budget to accomplish this makeover.


Instructions








1. Investigate the cost and work involved with installing bathroom wall paneling. Bathroom wall panels are large sections of steam and water resistant surfaces that look terrific, go up fast and will end ongoing frustrations with the deteriorating grout used to put ceramic tile into place. Get year's worth of maintenance-free enjoyment from your bathroom wall panels by selecting from design options like mosaics, faux wood and even marble, available at your favorite home improvement shop.


2. Fall back upon everyone's first choice by installing ceramic wall tiles to spruce up your bathroom. Choose the largest tiles possible to do the job so there's less maintenance involved when grout starts to discolor or crumble. Take advantage of new tile adhesives and gorgeous new finishes including matte, high-gloss and patterned tiles that can instantly transform a bathroom from mundane to gorgeous.


3. Consider installing wainscoting in your bathroom. Take a page from the Victorian era when wood panels graced bathroom walls from floor to wall mid-point. Heavy-duty varnishes and sealants will waterproof even the most delicate woods so there's no danger of leakage. Avoiding leakage is serious since leaks can can permeate sheet rock behind the wainscoting, and trigger mold and mildew build-up.


4. Employ an old standard with a new look: Paint your bathroom walls with protective enamel paint, but don't settle for one color. Add drama and interest to your walls by creating chunky vertical stripes---anywhere from 18-inches to 36-inches wide---from floor to ceiling. Use the most dominant paint color as your accent around mirrors so your walls coordinate with major fixtures in the bathroom.


5. Choose from today's rich variety of bathroom-specific wallpapers, particularly if your bathroom walls have been painted, stripped and refinished multiple times. Expect wallpaper to cover a number of flaws found on your sheet rock, but remember to match the size of the pattern to the size of your room so your bathroom doesn't wind up with pattern overload.


6. Go for the drama and glamor of a floor-to-ceiling mural that can transport family and friends from your home to. Dor instance, you might choose Caribbean island where the breezes are mild and the palm trees are so lifelike that you think they are swaying. Inexpensive murals can turn a bathroom from ordinary to quite extraordinary, so if nothing else in this article appeals to you, do consider one. You'll be glad you did.

Tags: your bathroom, bathroom wall, bathroom walls, bathroom Choose, bathroom from