Cheap Kitchen Decorating Ideas

Kitchen decorations.

Simple changes to a kitchen's decor often make a big impact on the overall look. If your kitchen is boring or outdated, you don't have to spend thousands of dollars on a complete makeover. For those on a limited budget, redecorating can give the space a new look. Function and style are key elements for one of the busiest rooms in the house.

Paint

Paint is one of the easiest and least expensive ways to redecorate a kitchen. Whether you paint one accent wall or the entire room, it gives the walls a fresh, clean look. Color creates different moods in the room, so you can use the paint to make the kitchen more relaxing, vibrant or modern. To test different colors, buy a sample can of the color you're considering. Paint it on a piece of poster board and hang it on the kitchen wall. Look at the paint color in different light at different times of day. Paint also works well to redecorate plain cupboards.

Place Mat Curtains

Place mats work well as an inexpensive kitchen window treatment. There are a number of styles and colors available in place mats, making it easy to find something that matches your kitchen. You can also match the curtains to the table settings in the kitchen by purchasing the same place mats for both purposes. Layer the place mats over a decorative curtain rod. You can use hot glue or double-sided tape to hold the place mats in place.

Hardware

Another inexpensive way to spruce up a kitchen is to add new kitchen hardware to the cabinets. There is a huge selection of styles and colors available in cabinet hardware. They may be small, but decorative handles make a big impression in a kitchen. Keep in mind how many handles you will need. The prices of door hardware also vary greatly, so you'll want to know how many you need to purchase so you can keep the project under budget.

Under Cabinet Lighting

Under cabinet lighting adds task lighting to the work areas in the kitchen. Many styles of under cabinet lighting are available. Instead of buying expensive under cabinet lights, use a strand of white Christmas lights. You can hide the light strand behind the cabinet trim so no one will know the difference. You still get the upscale under cabinet lighting look without the price tag.

Jars

Empty jars make inexpensive decorations for the kitchen. Save old food jars or look for decorative jars at thrift stores and garage sales. Fill the jars with decorative items such as dried beans in different colors, interesting shaped pasta or oil with herbs in it. The fillers keep with the kitchen theme but don't cost a lot. Place the jars on window sills or shelves in the kitchen.

Mosaic Backsplash

Backsplashes are popular in kitchen decor. You can spend a great deal of money on backsplash tiles or you can save money by creating your own mosaic backsplash. Pieces of broken tile or old plates make up the pieces of the mosaic design. Ask friends and family if they have some extra tiles lying around the house that you can use. Also check with tile or home improvement stores to see if they have any broken tiles you can have. You'll end up with a one-of-a-kind backsplash without spending a lot of money.

Tags: place mats, under cabinet, cabinet lighting, colors available, different colors

Lighting Ideas For A Suspended Ceiling

Light up a dark room with suspended ceiling lighting fixtures.

A suspended ceiling is a ceiling facade designed to hide the actual ceiling. It is a frame supporting ceiling pieces placed beneath the actual ceiling in a room. This type of ceiling is also called a drop ceiling or false ceiling and is most often seen in schools or offices. A suspended ceiling hides cords easily, leaving many options for interior lighting designs.

Fluorescent Lighting Fixtures

Standard fluorescent fixtures can give off a harsh light.

Standard fluorescent lighting fixtures with plastic covers are quickly and easily installed into most drop ceiling panels. This type of lighting is often considered harsh and unattractive, but it is a good choice for drop ceilings in stout buildings where space for fixtures and budget is limited.

Light Panels

Recessed light panels can give light to a room without crowding its headspace.

The old standard for adding lighting to a suspended ceiling, many companies make light panel accessories designed for easy installation into a suspended ceiling panel. These familiar panels feature a frosted plastic cover over a fluorescent panel embedded in the ceiling frame. Installing standard light panels is the easiest, and often the cheapest, method for quick lighting in a drop ceiling, but it not a good choice for lighting in rooms designed for flair or personality.

Decorative Light Panels

Though somewhat higher in price than standard light panels, decorative light panels install almost as quickly while avoiding the institutional office look given off by standard light panel fixtures. On higher drop ceilings, consider panel covers that hang or separate from the ceiling itself.

Wall Sconce Lighting

Wall sconces are decorative and helpful in lighting a small room.

Wall sconces are lighting fixtures hung on a wall. When they are designed to project light upward toward the ceiling or parallel along the walls, they are an effective source of lighting in a room with a suspended ceiling. This type of lighting is better for small rooms; large rooms may need supplemental ceiling lighting to light the areas away from the wall sconces.

Balance Lighting Colors

Most light bulbs on the market give off a certain hue. Whether the lights lean toward the blue or yellow end of the spectrum, if only one type of light is used, the room may glow an uncomfortable version of that hue. To balance yellow lighting, add cool bulbs that look slightly bluish. For lighting that is too blue or harsh, add some soft lighting bulbs with a warm or yellowish tone.

Tags: suspended ceiling, light panels, drop ceiling, lighting fixtures, standard light, This type, actual ceiling

Repair Gouges In Wood Moulding

Wood molding adds the finishing touch to a room, but it can be easily gouged by furniture moving and carpet installation. If your wood molding has been dinged and dented, you'll be pleased to learn it's not too tough a job to repair the gouges and return your molding to its original beauty. Once you've mastered the touch-up tricks of the trade, you'll be able to maintain your woodwork and molding whenever such accidents occur in the future.

Instructions

1. Wash the molding with a damp cloth to remove any dirt and dust; allow to dry completely.

2. Scoop a teaspoon of putty onto a putty knife, scraping excess putty on the rim of the can to avoid overloading the knife.

3. Run the putty knife over the gouge in the molding, holding the knife at a 45-degree angle and pressing firmly to wedge the putty into the crevice.

4. Smooth any rough spots on the molding, again using the putty knife until the surface is uniform.

5. Wipe off any excess putty that may have smeared around the gouge area using a damp, lint-free rag. Allow the putty to dry completely.

6. Sand any rough surface area on the dry molding, using a fine grit sand paper to buff the repair to a soft sheen.

Tags: putty knife, excess putty

Deal With Gaps In Crown Moulding

Crown molding requires special attention to fix gaps at corners.

Several factors cause gaps in crown molding. The first is poor craftsmanship. Incorrect installation leaves uneven corners and space behind or above the molding. A home also shifts over time. In old houses, it's possible for the walls and ceiling to change shape sufficiently that they pull away from the molding in places. The final common culprit is seasonal change. Changes in humidity can have drastic effects on wood construction. All of these problems can be addressed with guidance and attention to detail.

Instructions

Shifting Structures

1. Examine the molding thoroughly. Note any gaps that are present. Pay close attention to potential causes. Check for uneven corner joints and consistent gaps between molding sections. Look for locations where the molding does not make contact with the wall or ceiling.

2. Insert shims into gaps along the walls or ceiling. Drive the shims into the gap as far as possible without putting outward pressure on the molding. Break off any exposed ends. Tack the gaping section in place with a finish nail.

3. Cover the gap with drywall mud. Use a knife to push the mud into the gap. Smooth the mud away from the molding so that the wall appears to be a single continuous plane. Do not allow the mud to clump at sections you have filled.

Poor Installation

4. Sand away minor inconsistencies between molding angles. Add wood putty to any minor cracks or blemishes.

5. Remove pieces of molding that were cut short, or smaller pieces that were used to cover an extended section of wall. Measure the unfinished length of wall. Note any angled cuts required to fit a new piece.

6. Do not assume that the corners of the room are exactly 45 degrees. Use a bevel gauge to check the angle instead. Loosen the bolt on the joint of the bevel gauge. Set the gauge into the inside corner --- or around an outside corner. Tighten the bolt while holding the two ends of the gauge tight to the wall.

7. Take the bevel gauge to the miter saw and set the handle against the back rail. Adjust the angle of the saw so that the slot on the saw base matches the slot on the bevel gauge. Look at the reading on the saw base. Divide this number by two. This is the angle of your first cut.

Pick a piece of molding more than long enough to fill the space you've uncovered. Cut the angle you measured at one end.

8. Measure the molding to the length of the wall and mark the location for the second cut. Find the angle of the second corner and set the saw to the new angle. Cut the second angle at the far end of the molding from the first. Cut the piece a little long and try to fit it into the space. If it remains too long, shave off incremental amounts until it fits snugly with no gaps. Attach it with finish nails.

Tags: bevel gauge, angle second, away from, away from molding, between molding, from molding

Create An Aged Verdigris Finish

A faux verdigris look is a fun way to upgrade the finish on ceramic, metal and wood objects that have seen better days. Here's get it.

Instructions

1. Clean the surface of the object you'll be painting. Let it dry.

2. Spray paint the object, or large areas of it, with metallic copper or metallic gold paint. Allow to dry thoroughly.

3. Paint much of the rest of the object with a dark teal green (a color about halfway between turquoise and hunter green) acrylic paint. Brush painting or sponge painting works best, but be sure to leave a fair amount of the metallic paint exposed, because you want an irregularly mottled finish. Allow to dry thoroughly. (You can use a blow-dryer to speed the process if the piece isn't too big.)

4. Highlight with a contrasting, lighter shade of verdigris green. You can achieve this color by mixing white paint into some of the green paint you used earlier, or purchase a separate color. Allow to dry thoroughly.

5. Highlight sparingly with small touches of a pale mint green paint that you purchase or mix. Allow to dry thoroughly.

6. Spray the entire surface with a protective layer of clear acrylic with a matte finish to discourage scratches.

Tags: Allow thoroughly, green paint

Repair A Mobile Home Ceiling

Repair a Mobile Home Ceiling

Mobile homes are built with several types of ceilings made from sheetrock, panels, or suspended ceiling tiles. The most common damage to a mobile home ceiling comes from water, badly staining the ceiling or worse. Over time a leaking ceiling will cause the ceiling boards to sag. There are several ways to repair a sagging ceiling, all depending on how badly the ceiling boards are damaged. If ceiling boards are severely damaged or broken, they should be removed and replaced. In any case, you can make the repairs yourself.

Instructions

1. Remove the damaged, broken, or sagging ceiling material. If the ceiling is suspended, remove the damaged tiles by pushing the tile upward a few inches and rotating it enough to remove the tile from the metal grid. If your ceiling is sheetrock or wood panels, remove the screws that hold the panel in place and remove the panel.

2. Replace the ceiling material. If you are installing sheetrock to the ceiling, use ½-inch sheetrock because it weighs less. Use screws to screw the sheetrock to the joists every 16 inches to support the weight of the sheetrock. For a suspended ceiling, replace each individual tile by pushing it through the metal grid and maneuvering the tile into place. Replace wood panels by screwing the panel to the joists every 16 inches.

3. Tape the sheetrock seams using self-adhesive mesh seam tape and a razor knife to cut the tape. Apply the mesh seam tape to the seams of the sheetrock and cover the seam tape with a layer of joint compound, using a putty knife. Let the compound dry thoroughly, then lightly sand the area. Apply a second coat of joint compound slightly wider than the first coat. Let the compound dry thoroughly, then lightly sand the area. Apply a third coat of compound slightly wider than the second coat. Let the compound dry thoroughly, then lightly sand the area.

4. Apply a coat of sheetrock primer and let dry completely.

5. Spray texture on the sheetrock, or mix the texture in the paint, if texture is necessary to match the rest of your ceiling. Let the texture dry completely, then paint the sheetrock.

Tags: area Apply, ceiling boards, coat compound, compound thoroughly, compound thoroughly then, lightly sand, lightly sand area

Ceiling Max Installation Instructions

CeilingMAX ceilings are not suspended.

CeilingMAX is a surface-mounted ceiling system and is well suited for use in a room with a low ceiling, such as a basement. Some suspended systems require a 4-inch drop, which results in a loss of valuable head room. The CeilingMAX PVC supporting tracks are attached directly to the ceiling joists and when the ceiling tiles are in place, you lose only 1 inch of space. The installation requires careful planning, accurate measurements and can be completed in one day using basic tools.

Instructions

1. Measure the length of the room. Round this number down to the nearest even number of feet. When installing 2-by-2-foot tiles, add 24 to the remaining number of inches and divide this number by two to get the size of the border tiles running in this direction. For example, if the room's length is 15 feet 6 inches, rounding down to the nearest even foot is 14. Add 24 to the remaining number of inches, which is 18 inches, for a total of 42. When you divide by two, you get 21 inches.

2. Measure this distance from each side wall, place a mark on the floor joist and snap a chalk line. Repeat the calculation process with the width of the room to determine the size of the border tiles running in the other direction. Measure and snap a chalk line in a similar fashion.

3. Attach the wall brackets around the perimeter of the room below the floor joists. Hold the longer side of the bracket so that is faces up toward the ceiling. Space 1-inch drywall screws every 16 to 24 inches and attach the brackets to the wall.

4. Measure and cut the brackets to size using tin snips when you reach the corners. Attach the bracket with the end flush against the adjoining wall. Insert the end of the adjoining wall's bracket into the end of the bracket so that the ends overlap. Repeat the process and attach all the brackets around the room.

5. Hold an 8-foot top hanger perpendicular to the joists at one side of the room to begin attaching the first row. Align it with the snapped chalk line. The hanger may need to be trimmed so that when its end is inserted into the wall bracket, the notch in the hanger is aligned with the chalk line running in the opposite direction.

6. Attach the hanger with drywall screws. Alternate the sides of the hanger's channel when attaching it to the joists. Cut a 6-inch piece from a runner strip and insert it into the end of the hanger to use as a splice for the next section of hanger. This helps align the next section as you attach it to the joists.

7. Measure and cut the last hanger section for the row so that when the end is inserted into the wall bracket, the notch in the hanger is aligned with the chalk line.

8. Repeat Step 5 to start the next row of hangers. Before attaching the new hanger to the joists, take a 23-inch cross-tee section, hold it perpendicular to the hanger and insert its end into the first notch of the previously installed hanger. Insert the other end of the cross-tee into the corresponding notch of the new hanger.

9. Attach the new hanger to the joist closest to the first cross-tee to hold it while you continue to work. Insert the next cross-tee in the next corresponding slots and attach the hanger to the joist near this cross-tee. Continue to install cross-tee sections and hangers to complete the row. When you get to the end of the row, repeat Step 7 to attach the hanger. Repeat the process until all the rows are installed.

10. Measure, cut and install the cross-tees to fit into the first and last border rows. The cut end fits flush into the perimeter bracket while the opposite end fits into the hanger's notch. Do not install the last cross-tee when you get to the end of the row. This will be done in Step 11.

11. Measure and cut the first border ceiling tile with a utility knife. Start in one corner, insert the tile in the perimeter bracket and as you rock the cross-tee slightly back and forth, install the tile. Work your way down the row. When you get to the end of the row, set the last tile in place and then insert the last cross-tee. Continue the process and install the remaining border tiles.

12. Install all of the full-sized tiles. Remove any splices and lock the tiles in place with the 8-foot runners. Start at one end and snap the runners into the top hangers. Install all 8-foot runners and then cut the last ones to size to finish each row and the ceiling grid.

Tags: chalk line, border tiles, notch hanger, wall bracket, 8-foot runners, adjoining wall

Alternatives To Drop Ceilings

Drop ceilings consist of acoustical tiles and metal grid suspended below the ceiling structure. They are frequently used in both commercial and residential applications because of their low price and easy maintenance. At the same time, some homeowners may dislike drop ceilings because they can make a space look dated. They also reduce the ceiling height in a room because they are suspended at least several inches below the structure above. Fortunately, there many alternative ceiling finishes available that will allow you to create a look you enjoy.

Drywall

Drywall ceilings are made from gypsum wall board panels fastened directly to the roof or floor deck above. The drywall is sanded and finished, then painted to create the desired look. This material creates a smooth clean finish for ceilings and can be easily updated with new paint as needed. Drywall is fairly heavy, however, and can be difficult to install on the ceiling without assistance. You'll need to rent a drywall lift to raise and hold the material in place until you can secure it. You may also wish to hire a professional to sand and finish the drywall, as this can be a difficult task for inexperienced installers.

Tiles or Planks

Some tiles and wood planks can be installed directly onto your existing ceiling deck. Vintage tin tiles are a popular choice, as are today's aluminum reproductions. These tiles are nailed onto the ceiling and are fairly easy to install. Tin tiles often come embossed with intricate patterns and can be painted to create a unique look in the home.

Wood planks are installed in a similar manner to wood flooring. They come equipped with tongue-and-groove connectors that allow you to nail them into the ceiling without leaving nail heads visible on the finished surface. You'll find wood planks in many different colors and finishes, including specialty veneers made from exotic wood species.

Exposed Ceiling

Those looking to create a modern or industrial look should consider exposed ceilings. With this type of design, no ceiling materials are installed. Instead, duct work and piping are left exposed and are used to contribute to the room's decor. An exposed ceiling can be painted or left unfinished. When creating this look, consider using lined duct to hide insulation from view. In addition, spiral ducts are an attractive alternative to regular rectangular or square units. This look will be more difficult to achieve if your ceiling is in poor condition.

Stucco

Stucco is a textured plaster product made from sand, water, lime and cement. It is often used to cover rough or damaged surfaces and is a highly affordable alternative to other ceiling materials. Stucco is easy to install and is incredibly versatile. It can be used to create fairly smooth ceilings that can be painted, or highly textured surfaces that resemble the traditional "popcorn" ceiling. Dyes or pigments can be added during application to give the stucco color, or it can be painted after it dries.

Tags: made from, because they, ceiling materials, ceiling without, easy install, painted create

Ceiling Plank Installation

Special tongue-and-groove beaded ceiling boards are readily available from most lumber yards, and when installed on your ceiling they render a very attractive wooden ceiling. However, for a more rustic style of wood plank ceiling, you can use any stock of wood planking you feel will make for a sharp-looking finished job. The wood can be selected at a lumber yard or purchased from a local sawmill, but the wood supply needs to be completely dry (preferably kiln-dried) and of uniform dimensions.

Installing Straight Planking

Straight planking can be nailed directly to the ceiling joists with large casing nails, or you can even used ring-shanked flooring nails if you're concerned about the boards coming loose. Always butt the ends of different boards together in the center of a joist. And be sure to set the nails and cover each nail hole with wood putty. The key to a good-looking plank ceiling is checking each board before it is installed for defective (curved or twisted) edges. Good quality stock will make the task of installing the ceiling a lot easier. To ensure a straight line across the ceiling, you can chalk a line from one side to the other. Do this every few feet and your handiwork will look much better when the job is complete.

Rabbet Joints

For a tighter fit between ceiling boards you can use stock that has a rabbet joint on each edge of the plank. The wood can be custom milled with a rabbet cut on each edge, or you can make the edge yourself if you have a router or a table saw with a dado blade. Just make sure the rabbet cut is made at exactly half the thickness of the board. These specially milled boards will create tight lines and the ceiling will be airtight because of the overlapping nature of the rabbet joints. Once completed, a clear wood finish can be added to let the natural beauty of the wood come through.

Recycled Wood

Recycled wood can be used to create a very unique wooden ceiling. Again, uniform quality is a major concern; if the dimensions of your wood supply are constant, your task of putting up the ceiling will be much easier.

Tags: ceiling boards, ceiling will, each edge, plank ceiling, will make

Pendants & Ceiling Lighting Fixtures

Pendant light fixture such as those used in a kitchen area.

Light fixtures provide one of three types of lighting: mood or ambient lighting, accent lighting or task lighting. A pendant light refers to one of four primary types of ceiling lighting fixture.

Pendant Lights

Pendant light with vintage styling to match a traditional decor.

A pendant light hangs over the illumination area at the end of a cable, chain or heavy-duty cord. Pendant lights function primarily as task lighting such as above kitchen counter tops or over student desks in a child's bedroom. They get the name pendant from their resemblance to a pendant necklace.

Recessed Lighting

Recessed lighting fixture positioned flush up against the ceiling itself.

Another type of ceiling light fixture involves recessed lighting, lighting built into the ceiling or resting just below the ceiling. This type, found in some kitchens and many bathrooms also serves primarily as task lighting.

Track Lighting

Chandelier, with more elaborate styling than the typical pendant light.

Track lighting or indirect lighting, sometimes installed at ceiling level, aims the lighting indirectly in relation to the illumination area. Track lighting has appropriateness for ambient lighting and because of glare minimization for task lighting involving computer use.

Chandeliers

As with a pendant light, a chandelier hangs from the ceiling by a connecting cord, chain or cable. While some sources may regard chandeliers and pendant lights as synonymous, typically chandeliers take an elaborate, and pendant lights a more simple, form.

Tags: task lighting, ambient lighting, illumination area, light fixture, lighting fixture, pendant light, pendant lights

Install Crown Molding Above Cabinets

Crown molding is something that makes any room look much better with very little expense. Kitchens that have crown molding instantly look more expensive and nicer. However, installing crown molding above cabinets can sometimes be difficult. However, if these steps are followed then you will be able to have crown molding above your cabinets with less work than you might think. Not counting the time it takes to purchase supplies, this project should take one day.

Instructions

1. Measure the area where you want to install the crown molding. Write that measurement down on a piece of paper and take it with you when you go to buy the molding.

2. Purchase enough crown molding to measure all around the area that you want to cover. Make sure to purchase a crown molding set that comes with corner blocks. This makes it much easier to install the crown molding around cabinets. It also means that you don't have to have any complicated equipment for the job.

3. Take the corner blocks and hold them up to the corners that you want to place them on. You want them to fit snugly against the wall, so file down any portions of the molding that don't match up to the wall. Nail them into place with the small nails.

4. Measure the distance between each set of two corner blocks. This will be the area that you will install the regular crown molding. Cut the molding pieces to fit inside the space between the corner blocks. If the molding strips are too small to fit with one strip, cut two pieces to go in between each corner block. Make sure to keep each wall grouping separated from the others. If you mix them up, it will be hard to figure out where they were supposed to go.

5. Put a bit of wood glue on each end of the molding strip. Hold the molding into place and nail to the wall. You will want to place the nails about every 12 inches. Short strips should have two to three nails in them to keep them balanced. Line up the glued ends with the corner blocks. Let dry.

6. Load the caulk into the caulk gun. Get the caulk flowing evenly before using it on the walls. Caulk along the lines where the molding and the wall meet. You will likely need quite a bit of caulk to finish this task. Wipe the caulk with a rag to smooth it out. Let dry.

Tags: corner blocks, crown molding, crown molding, area that, between each, between each corner, blocks This

Install A Vessel Sink

Installing Any Vessel Sink is a SNAP

A vessel sink is a metal or glass bowel that mounts to the top of a countertop instead of resting flush with the countertop. It gives a Mediterranean feel of having a bowel filled with water except you get the modern convenience of plumbing. If installing a new sink into a bathroom, you will find that the process of installing a vessel sink is actually easier than a top mount or under mount sink, as you do not have to worry about cutting out the profile of the sink into the countertop. A simple hole for the drainpipe is all you need.

Instructions

1. Attach a hole-saw into your hand drill that measures slightly larger than the diameter of the drainpipe supplied with your vessel sink. In most cases, a 2 1/2-inch hole-saw works nicely. Drill a hole through the countertop where you plan to install the vessel sink.

2. Place the collar over the hole. The collar is the base plate provided with the vessel sink. The vessel rests on the color and keeps it from moving.

3. Place the vessel on top of the collar and then place the threaded drainpipe complete with the drain basket through the hole in the bottom of the collar. The drain basket has a rubber gasket on it to prevent the need for plumber's putty.

4. Place a level across the top of the vessel and then position the vessel so it rests level on the collar.

5. Thread the retaining nut onto the threads of the drainpipe and then tighten the nut with pliers. As you tighten the nut, it secures the vessel against the collar and seals the sink basket.

6. Loosen the compression nut on the S-trap and then raise the S-trap onto the drainpipe. Tighten the compression nut to secure the S-trap to the sink's drainpipe.

Tags: drain basket, sink into, vessel rests, vessel sink, vessel sink

Lighting For Your Sun Room

A lighted ceiling fan is an ideal lighting option for a sunroom.

One of the benefits of a sunroom is that it is designed to allow the maximum amount of natural light into the space during the day. However, if you plan to use your sunroom in the evenings, you will need to add lighting fixtures. You have several options that work well for a sunroom, so you should find an option that meets your needs and design style without disturbing the wide, open feel of the space.

Lighted Ceiling Fan

One of the most common types of lighting for a sunroom is a lighted ceiling fan. A sunroom typically features a wall of windows, which means that there usually isn't much space for wall-mounted fixtures. Ceiling-mounted fixtures are an ideal alternative, and a lighted fan works especially well because it allows you to cool off and light your sunroom at the same time. Lighted ceiling fans are available in both traditional and modern styles. Some have a single light fixture in the center while others feature stems with individual lights at the end of each. Because of the design variety, you can find the ideal fit for your sunroom's d cor.

Pendant Light

If you like the idea of a single, ceiling-mounted light fixture for your sunroom but don't like the look of ceiling fans, a pendant light is an attractive alternative. Pendant lights hang down from your ceiling, so they provide a decorative element for the space. They are available in a variety of colors and styles, so you can find an option that helps tie the room's d cor together. Instead of hanging a single pendant light in your sunroom, however, you can hang three or four in a cluster to create an attractive focal point for the room.

Track Lighting

Track lighting is another ceiling lighting option for your sunroom. It is often more effective than a lighted ceiling fan or pendant light because it can light more of the space. The fixtures contain several light heads that are mounted on a track. However, you can adjust the individual lights to direct light to specific areas of your sunroom. As a result, track lighting works well as accent lighting if there are certain features in your sunroom that you wish to highlight, such as artwork or potted plants. While track lighting sometimes gets a bad rap for its appearance, you can find it in a variety of attractive, modern styles that help dress up your sunroom's ceiling.

Recessed Lighting

For a simple sunroom lighting fixture, recessed lights are an ideal option. Like lighted ceiling fans, pendant lights and track lighting, they are ceiling-mounted lights, but the fixtures are actually sunken in holes in the ceiling surface. As a result, all that is visible is the light itself. You can install a series of recessed lights across your sunroom's ceiling to light the entire space or place a few in strategic locations.

Floor Lamp

While ceiling lights work well in a sunroom, adding one or two traditional floor lamps to the space is a good idea. If you plan to use your sunroom for reading or other tasks that may require concentrated light, overhead fixtures may not provide adequate lighting in the exact spot that you need it. Placing a floor lamp right beside a sofa or behind an easy chair helps provide direct illumination where it is required.

Tags: your sunroom, lighted ceiling, ceiling fans, pendant light, ceiling fans pendant

Features Of Limestone Caves

Stalactites and column formations are classic features of limestone caves.

Limestone caves are formed where water leaks through cracks in limestone bedrock near the surface. Rainwater passing through rich soil and vegetation reacts with carbon dioxide to form weak carbonic acid. Over time, this weak acid dissolves the stone it runs through, creating caves deep within the bedrock. The water evaporates, leaving behind the dissolved limestone. These two natural processes--dissolution and evaporation--create the beautiful flowing rock formations, or speleothems, associated with limestone caves.

Stalactites, Stalagmites and Columns

The most commonly noted features of limestone caverns are rock projections formed by dripping rock--stalactites, which are pointed rock formations resembling teeth that hang from the ceiling of a cave, and stalagmites, which are rock formations found most commonly beneath stalactites that rise upward from the floor of the cave. When a stalactite and stalagmite grow so long they meet, they form columns. These formations are all created by water dripping through narrow cracks in the ceiling, then evaporating to leave stone behind. Stalactites by themselves are formed by slow drips. Faster drips create stalagmites.

Soda Straws and Bacon Strips

Soda-straw formations are slender, hollow stalactites created by the evaporation of carbon dioxide from water drips. When the carbon dioxide evaporates, water releases dissolved limestone in a ring around the drop. Over time, these rings build up hollow, straw-like stalactites in straight or curved shapes, sometimes even forming curls and spirals. If these stalactite formations are very close together along a crack, they may form a sheet of rock often referred to as a bacon strip.

Flowstone

Flowstone forms along cave walls where the cracks are very close to the edge. This formation is quite similar to stalactites and stalagmites, but instead of drips evaporating at the tips of formations, the entire flowstone wall is typically damp, with water evaporating from all over the stone. This formation is often remarkable for its vibrant and varied colors, caused when other minerals and metals are trapped in the water forming the stone. Stalactites and bacon strips often form draperies at the bottom of flowstone, particularly on large features. Niagara Falls in Mammoth Cave is probably the most famous flowstone formation.

Gypsum Formations

Gypsum flowers form in dry parts of caves where there is a high concentration of sulfur in the bedrock as well as calcium carbonate. The sulfur reacts with calcium carbonate to form gypsum crystal. This soft mineral "grows" on cave ceilings and walls, extruding like toothpaste into shapes that often resemble delicate flower petals. Soda straws often resemble gypsum flowers, but the two formations are very different in both composition and creation.

Tags: carbon dioxide, rock formations, calcium carbonate, dissolved limestone, features limestone, formations very, limestone caves

Finish The Inside Of A Shop With Metal Liner Panels

Finishing off the interior of a garage or steel building with steel liner panels is an excellent way to make an outbuilding look finished and feel more comfortable, since you can insert insulation between the exterior and interior walls. Liner panels bring a clean, industrial look to the space and enhance its appearance. Liner panels work best when there is a solid foundation of concrete underneath; if your steel garage is set on concrete piers, consider laying a concrete floor before you finish off the space.

Instructions

Getting Started

1. Make certain that insulation and vapor barriers are properly installed, and that the temperature in the building is above 32 degrees Fahrenheit. Check the studs and roof trusses for level and plumb --- straight up and down.

2. Add strapping where needed, using 1-by-4 or 2-by-4 studs between the wall studs and ceiling joists or roofing trusses, to provide a solid surface for the metal screws that will hold the liner panels in place. Liner panels should run parallel to the wall studs, which are placed every 16 inches apart. A standard liner panel is 36 inches wide, so you may need extra vertical strapping between the studs.

3. Install wood blocking where needed around all openings.

4. Screw in the base trim along the bottom of the wall. If the wall ends in a corner, install a piece of cove trim in the corner. If it is a straight wall, screw up a piece of J-trim. Cut these trim pieces to fit with a utility knife or tin snips. Check trim for level and plumb.

5. Begin inserting panels, starting in the corner. Insert completely into the base trim and the cove or J-trim. Leave a 1/4-inch gap at the end to allow for expansion and contraction. Cut to fit, if necessary, using a radial arm saw. Screw in place with metal screws, sinking the screws at least 1 inch into the stud. Place screws no farther apart than 24 inches, and at least 4 inches from the ends of the panel. Check for plumb.

6. Put the next panel up, making certain it is interlocked along the entire length of the first panel, and is inserted completely into the base trim. Screw in place and continue on around walls, adding cove trim at each corner.

7. Add supporting 1-by-4s or 2-by-4s where needed for any suspended lighting or other fixtures.

8. Install any trim before setting panels into place on the ceiling.

9. Install panels on the ceiling in the same manner as the wall panels.

10. Apply silicone caulk to any exposed corners, fixtures and holes.

Tags: base trim, where needed, completely into, completely into base, cove trim, into base

Restore 1940s Metal Tile Walls

Restore metal tile to its original finish.

Tin tiles were often used in the late 1800s and through the 1940s to add decorative design elements to the ceilings and walls of many homes. They were created and installed to mimic the expensive and elaborate plaster molding used in Victorian homes. Over time, the application of tin wainscoting and ceiling tile became less popular. It is not uncommon to find hidden or painted over tin tiles in homes that were built in the 1940s or before. Restoring this tile will take time and patience but it can be brought back to life so you can proudly show it off.

Instructions

1. Clean the metal tile with ammonia-based cleaner to strip it of dirt and grease. Scrub the small crevices and detail scroll work with a toothbrush.

2. Apply a 1/4-inch thick coat of paint stripper to the metal tile. Press the paint stripping cloths or paper into the stripper and let it set according to package directions.

3. Peel the paper or cloth strips from the tile, removing the paint in a long strip. Remove all of the strips.

4. Apply paint stripper directly to 0000 steel wool. Gently rub any remaining paint with the steel wool. Remove as much paint as you can with this method.

5. Turn on a rotary filing tool. Move the tool over the crusted paint, into scroll work on the tile. Remove all remaining paint.

6. Rinse the tiles with clean water to remove all chemical paint stripper. Wipe the tiles with soft towels to dry.

7. Dip a soft rag or t-shirt into metal polish. Choose the metal polish that is appropriate for your antique tile. Most 1940s tiles were tin. Polish the tile by rubbing the solution over the face of the tile in a circular motion. Skip this step if you prefer to leave the patina on the tile.

Tags: metal tile, paint stripper, metal polish, paint with, remaining paint, scroll work

Calculate The Fabric For Ceiling Drapes

Create an eye-catching draped effect with fabric on a ceiling.

Draping a ceiling with fabric transforms an ordinary room into something extraordinary. Whether you're hosting a wedding, a shower or any other type of affair, fabric draping on a ceiling adds a touch of whimsy and romance to the venue. Choose a lightweight material such as tulle or organza in any one or combination of colors you'd like for this decoration. To successfully drape a ceiling with fabric, calculate the amount of material you will need prior to purchasing it.

Instructions

1. Measure the length and the width of the ceiling and divide it by two. The fabric will hang from the edges to the center of the ceiling, so each panel will need to be half the total width and length of the area.

2. Add 15 to 20 percent to the calculation of the ceiling size. In order for the fabric to drape and create the desired whimsical effect, ensure you have more fabric than needed. These numbers will indicate the length of fabric that you need to purchase.

3. Measure the width of the fabric that you are using for the ceiling drapes. Determine how many widths of fabric you will require to cover the length and width of the ceiling. Multiply the numbers by two so that you purchase the proper number of panels for each side of the room.

Tags: with fabric, ceiling with, ceiling with fabric, fabric that, fabric will

Modern Base Moulding Ideas

Simple, flat moulding in a neutral white complements a modern design aesthetic.

Base moulding marks the transition between the floor material and the connecting walls. Though traditional styles feature elaborate milling and carving for highly decorative moulding, modern base moulding is simpler in design for a more streamlined look. Choose modern moulding for post World War II homes that feature the clean lines and simple designs of modern architecture for a cohesive final design.

Moulding Profiles

Moulding is categorized by its profile; classic or traditional base moulding features highly detailed milled edges to create profiles with scallops edges or dramatic curvature. Modern base moulding is more simple in its profile design. Each manufacturer names its own moulding profiles, but most standard baseboard moulding pieces feature a largely flat profile with a single decorative curve or bead. Choose base moulding with the fewest features and flattest profile for understated moulding that complements the streamlined features of a modern room; thin, flat planks without any milling detail are particularly effective. For a more distinctive moulding, opt for a shoe moulding, a quarter-round strip of molding that adds sleek, uninterrupted curves to the space. Though many profiles are offered in limited sizes, choose a moulding slightly taller or shorter than standard moulding, which averages between 4 and 5 inches high.

Painted Moulding

In many homes, base moulding is a subtle addition to a room that serves the functional purpose to disguise the joint of the floor and wall. Turn simple base moulding into a visual focal point with a modern incorporation of color. Painted moulding serves as either a contrast or point of continuation for a dramatic wall color. If your walls are a bold color like orange, aqua or red, continue the color through the moulding so that the floor contrast is even more dramatic. Modern moulding may also serve as the contrast itself. Choose a moulding color that complements or contrasts your wall and floor colors. For white walls and a hardwood floor, a bold emerald green is a dramatic addition. If your walls and carpet are in the same color family like blue, opt for a contrasting color like orange for an unexpected effect. If you are wary of experimenting with colors, a high-gloss black moulding is a suitable match for most wall and floor combinations.

Stained Moulding

Another branch of the modern design movement includes homes inspired by nature and environmentally-sustainable materials. For a modern home decorated in neutral, earth-tone color palettes and natural fabrics, choose a stained moulding that preserves the natural beauty and details of the original wood material. Choose a wood with a distinctive wood grain like pine, though oak is also a common moulding material. A light stain or clear varnish avoids obstruction of the natural wood details. Another option is to incorporate an alternative wood material; bamboo moulding can be milled to resemble standard moulding or to preserve the natural ribbing that occurs along a bamboo stalk.

Tags: base moulding, moulding that, color like, color like orange, like orange

What Paint Colors Go With Oil Rubbed Bronze

What Paint Colors Go With Oil Rubbed Bronze?

Oil rubbed bronze is a metal finish that is softer and more neutral than regular bronze. While a normal bronze finish exhibits a soft, golden glow, its oil rubbed counterpart has a deeper, darker cast. There are some variations in the oil rubbed bronze finish, depending on the manufacturer; some tend a bit to the yellow and others a kind of soft gunmetal. The main color component is neutral, however, which means you will have a lot of options coming up with compatible colors.

Warm Neutrals

A warm neutral color will pick up the warmth of the metal, especially if the finish has any of the warmth sometimes found in oil rubbed bronze. Taupe or beige, infused with a touch of yellow or light earth color, can bring that out. If the warm neutral is on the light side, it will be more compatible with the rest of your decor, as darker neutrals can be oppressive at times.

Soft Green

A light mint or light yellow-green color toned down with a touch of gray will compliment cooler, gunmetal finishes. The added gray tone keeps the color from overwhelming the subtle tones of the oil rubbed bronze. In general, staying with lighter and more neutral colors will help highlight the finish.

Fall Colors

Use a color from the warm part of the color wheel, like a yellow-gold or amber for a bolder color scheme. Russet, ochre or other fall colors provide a glow to the room and will go well with the soft radiance of the oil rubbed bronze. Fall colors can be easily mixed and matched provided they are not too saturated or intense.

Tags: rubbed bronze, bronze finish, color from, Colors With, Colors With Rubbed, more neutral, Paint Colors

Remove A Popcorn Ceiling With Vinegar

A popcorn ceiling can be removed to reveal a smooth surface.

Popcorn ceilings get their name from their bumpy, creviced texture and appearance. While some like the appearance of this finish, others may find it outdated or aesthetically unappealing for other reasons. In such cases, a popcorn ceiling finish can be removed with the help of vinegar. When properly used, a simple vinegar solution may potentially cut hours off the time it would normally take to remove a popcorn ceiling.

Instructions

1. Check the ceiling for asbestos before you attempt to work on it. It's best to have it tested by a certified contractor who deals with this type of problem. If your ceiling has asbestos, it's best to have it taken care of by a professional. If the ceiling is asbestos-free, you can continue to work.

2. Mix a solution of one part white vinegar to three parts water in a spray bottle. Put the cap on the bottle and shake it to mix the ingredients together.

3. Set up a ladder in one corner of the room. Spray a 4-foot square area of the ceiling with the vinegar solution. The ceiling should be thoroughly moist. If you're lucky, the popcorn finish will begin to fall on its own within a minute, but this isn't likely on any ceiling that has been painted over.

4. Scrape the popcorn finish off the ceiling with a putty knife.

5. Move the ladder over to a new position and repeat the process. Continue this until the entire ceiling is finished.

Tags: popcorn ceiling, best have, ceiling asbestos, ceiling with, popcorn finish

Make Wine Cup Chandeliers

Enhance a kitchen or bar with a wine glass chandelier.

If you've always wanted an elegant glass chandelier, now is your chance. Wine glass chandeliers provide a chic, modern way to repurpose chipped or mismatched wine glasses. You can also cheaply replace a dated or simply ugly chandelier with this technique. The wine glasses look as if they're tumbling down from your ceiling, but without the messy and dangerous end result. Light refracts through the glasses, optimizing the light from a single pendant lightbulb and illuminating your dining table beautifully.

Instructions

1. Unscrew the finial from the shade on your pendant light, removing the shade and shade harp from the light. You should now have a bare lightbulb hanging from your ceiling. Work with the light turned off.

2. Drill a 1/8 inch diameter hole right next to the base of the light on the ceiling. If the light has a ceiling medallion, remove it to see where the wires are. Replace the medallion and drill through it carefully, aiming away from the wires.

3. Screw a ceiling screw hook into the hole. The hook should have a 20 pound test, or be able to hold up to 20 pounds without trouble. Some hooks have small metal wings that pop out when you push them through a hole; these hold very strongly.

4. Cut a 2.5-foot length of cable with cable cutters. Slide a cable crimp onto one end of the cable, wrap the end of the cable around the base of a wine glass stem and slide the end of the cable back through the cable crimp. Squeeze the crimp with a pair of pliers to secure it.

5. Attach a second wine glass to the other end of the cable. Cut another cable and repeat, mounting up to 14 wine glasses this way.

6. Slip the center of each of the cables onto the ceiling hook. Gently arrange the wine glasses, either in a random pattern or in a descending spiral. Tangle them gently together so they remain in place.

Tags: wine glasses, cable crimp, from your, from your ceiling, glass chandelier

Installing Ceiling Tile

Standard home ceilings may be outfitted with numerous types of materials. Some of the more common ceiling types include drywall, cathedral or even a hand-painted mural. If you are searching for a visually interesting ceiling finish, then you may be interested in using tile. Ceiling tiles provide a textured appearance, and due to the various styles of ceiling tile, the possibilities are limitless. The installation of ceiling tiles varies from other forms of ceiling installations.

Choosing the Tile

Ceiling tiles typically measure 12-inches-by-12-inches, yet these tiles are also available in a wide variety of sizes. The appearance of the tile can also vary from simplistic to pattern finishes. When selecting a ceiling tile, choose one that fits into the pre-existing design of the room. For example, if you have a simplistic room, you will not want to choose a ceiling tile with extreme texture or patterns as it will offset the room's appearance. No matter the design of the tile, always make sure the tile features a fire-resistant surface and if you want to soundproof a room, select an acoustical tile.

Installation Type

The typical ceiling tile is installed to the ceiling through a tongue and groove design. Basically, when installing this type of ceiling tile you place the tongue of one tile into the groove of the other and snap the two together through a hammer. Tiles are then secured to the ceiling through a ceiling tile adhesive, which is typically applied prior to snapping the tiles in place. Make sure you only install tiles to an even and smooth ceiling, if not the tiles will look uneven and unattractive.

Installing Around Posts or Pipes

Occasionally a ceiling tile must be laid where a post or pipe exists. To do so, cut the tile in half and trim the tile to the same curvature of the obstruction. After doing so, install the two pieces of ceiling tile in the same manner as you would normally. When trimming the tile, make sure the tile is face up, and use an ultra-sharp utility knife.

Furring Strips

If the ceiling is uneven, then you must install furring strips prior to installing the tiles. A furring strip is a seasoned soft wood, such as fir or pine. Secure the beams to the ceiling through nails, and place the beams at least 16 inches apart. The ceiling tiles are then stapled to the strips for an even and secure fit.

Tags: ceiling tile, ceiling tile, ceiling through, ceiling tiles, make sure, make sure tile, sure tile

Get Rid Of Basement Mice

Getting rid of basement mice is a common task for any home owner, whether you live in the city, suburbs or country. House mice are small, only a few inches in length and weighing only about 20 grams, therefore they can hide and get into just about any place in your basement. Getting rid of basement mice may be a challenge, but unless you want an infestation it is best to tackle this job as soon as you notice the problem.

Instructions

Get Rid of Basement Mice

1. Clean your basement from top to bottom. Take out any trash, remove clutter and wash everything you can. Mice will use any mess to hide and nest in, so the less there is for the mice to get into the easier it will be to catch and remove them. While it is not typical, house mice can carry diseases, so it is best to clean with a bleach product, especially around any areas where you find mouse droppings.

2. Check around the perimeter of your basement for any cracks or holes. Remember the common house mouse is a tiny animal and it does not take much of an opening for them to gain access to your basement.

Inspect openings around plumbing pipes, wiring and vents. Use spray foam insulation to fill in any spaces you find. That product is available at any local hardware store. The foam will expand, making a tight seal to keep out any future mice as well as other pests.

3. Check all doors for a tight seal. If you find any space put on some weather stripping. In addition to keeping out mice, that will also help lower energy costs.

4. Go outside and clear away any clutter that is in direct contact with your foundation. Things like tall grass, weeds and debris give mice a place to hide. If there are inviting places to hide right next to your foundation, it is only a mater of time before they get inside your home.

5. Set mouse traps in your basement. Whether you choose humane traps or a traditional snap trap, use peanut butter for bait. Check the traps regularly for several weeks. Once you have eliminated the infestation you should be free of mice for the foreseeable future as they no longer have a way to get into your basement.

Tags: your basement, Basement Mice, basement mice, Getting basement, Getting basement mice, tight seal

Diy Design A Dream Bathroom For Your Household

Designing a dream bathroom takes planning and preparation.

When designing a dream bathroom for your household, make sure that you have considered every possible aspect. It may seem like an overwhelming task, because this is more than likely something that you have looked forward to for a while, but in the end it will all be worth it. Take your time when considering each feature, and think about how you will feel about it years down the road, before making the final decision to proceed with building or installing it.

Instructions

1. Make a list of everything you have ever dreamed of having in your bathroom. If your home is older, consider a separate bathtub and shower instead of the combined one you currently have. Installing a sauna in the bathroom or a double sink instead of a single one is another option to consider. Flooring options, wallpaper or paint, and cabinetry designs need to be decided on. When writing down the list, do not restrict yourself; you can make any needed adjustments later.

2. Decide on a theme for your bathroom. Design it to match the other rooms in the house, or make this a space that is a completely separate haven. There are many themes to consider, such as whether the bathroom should be bright and colorful, natural and rustic, modern and contemporary, minimalistic or classic. The warm colors of Tuscany or the bold colors of an Asia are additional themes to consider.

3. Review your list, compare the items on your list with the theme you have chosen and decide whether everything matches. If being thematically correct is not a concern of yours, combine some items and create your own theme. For instance, build a sauna in the bathroom with an exterior casing that complements your theme, such as a wooden case for a rustic theme or a bronze-framed casing for a luxurious theme.

4. Decide whether or not everything can fit into your bathroom space, or if you are willing to add on to the space you already have. Ultimately, since this is your dream bathroom, building onto the space ensures you have everything you want. Add a sitting area with a separate hot tub and chaise lounge where you can relax and read a book.

Tags: dream bathroom, your bathroom, bathroom your, sauna bathroom, that have, themes consider, whether everything

Design A Master Bathroom

Designing a master bathroom is as easy as making a few lists.

A master bathroom is your own private place that is as individualistic as you want it to be and should be designed according to your style and taste, irrespective of what is trendy or fashionable. Depending on the layout of your home, the bathroom is either accessed directly from the master bedroom or through an adjacent corridor. This will influence the design of your overall layout in relation to privacy.

Instructions

1. If you do not have an existing master bathroom, or a room that can be converted into one, decide on where and how large you want the room to be. Speak to a design professional to ensure that you have not overlooked any key issues such as access, ventilation and permits required.

2. Conduct research to determine any styles that you particularly prefer. Look in design magazines, bathroom showrooms and friends' houses to view features and colors that appeal to you. Also note details that are not to your taste to make sure that you avoid them when designing your own bathroom.

3. Decide on a concept and theme for your master bathroom. This theme can relate to the adjoining bedroom or be completely independent of it.

4. Determine the styles and colors of any bathroom accents, including storage space, towel rails, heating and lighting, as they make a difference to the overall functioning of the space. Select a type of shower and bath to be used in the room, and make a decision as to whether you prefer one or two sinks in the room.

5. Make a list of the essential functions that you and your partner want from the bathroom. Also make a wish list of things that you want but do not need. Once you have set your budget, you will get a clear idea of what you can afford and you can then negotiate between the two lists.

Tags: master bathroom, that your

Installing Vinyl Siding On Stucco

Vinyl siding changes the appearance of any home.

When you finally tire of trying to make that stucco on the house look great, you tire of the annual power washes or you just want a change, then it's time for vinyl siding on the stucco. You can actually install it yourself. It takes some time, but the results are worth the effort.

Instructions

1. Assess the stucco. If the stucco is crumbly and in extremely poor shape, you might consider removing it. Use either a hammer with the widest cold chisel available or an SDS rotary hammer with the biggest chisel bit available. This saves your body from a lot of stress.

2. Strip it out if your stucco is in good repair. Stripping it out is a term for putting boards all the way around the house at 16-inch intervals. Before you begin, make sure the walls are level. A level surface is important to the success of siding. If your walls aren't level, adjust the height of the boards with shims to make them level.

3. Start with the flashing and a weather barrier, if you use one, before you begin. Flashing stops the flow of water where the siding butts up against adjoining material. Use the flashing and type of nail that the manufacturer recommends.

4. Install the accessories. Start by installing the corner posts, window flashing, trim and J-channels. If you're going to paint the trim, do that now, before you put on the siding or accessories. Use a level on each.

5. Begin the starter strips. Make certain that the siding starts level. To do this, mark a point on the wall where you want the siding to start. Measure up 1/4 inch less than the starter strip's width and mark the spot by pounding in a nail. Tie a chalk line to the nail, level it out with a 4-foot level and snap the chalk line. Continue around the house until you complete all lines for the starter strips.

6. Nail or screw the siding down loosely. You need to allow the vinyl siding to slide so it can expand and contract freely. The same is true of the accessories like the J-channels.

7. Vary the seams on the siding by alternating the short pieces on each end in different rows.

Tags: around house, chalk line, chisel available, hammer with, starter strips

Bathroom Ideas For Mobile Homes

Storage presents an issue in many mobile home bathrooms.

Bathrooms are primarily functional rooms, but that does not mean they should lack style or visual appeal. The extremely small bathrooms found in mobile homes present additional challenges. It is difficult to decorate and still fit necessary personal hygiene items into such a small space. Combine storage, space-saving decor and well-chosen renovations to create a stylish and utilitarian bathroom.

Walls

Change your mobile home bathroom quickly by giving it a new coat of easily cleaned gloss or semigloss paint. Bright colors open the room up and make it appear larger while newer metallic or pearlescent paints modernize the room. Use vertical lines, painted or on wallpaper, for a sense of height. Remove or paint wood paneling, common in older mobile homes, to lighten, enlarge and update the space. Alternatively, keep walls simple and focus instead on the ceiling with stencils, sponge painting or coverings such as bamboo or tin for a truly one-of-kind design.

Decor

Use wall hangings that provide depth, such as a shadow box, a framed mirror, or a small shelf in a bright color that is not flat against the wall. Include unusual patterns, designs or materials in your decor, but stick to one or two pieces in a similar theme to avoid a cluttered feel in an already small space.

Light

Many mobile home bathrooms offer little or no natural light, making the space seem dark as well as small. Use task lighting above the vanity and add recessed lights above the tub or shower. Use spot lighting to highlight and draw attention to particular features in the bathroom. A small pendant or chandelier adds more general lighting while providing another decorative feature that does not take up counter space. Mirrors work in combination with lights to brighten a small space; in addition to the typical mirror above the sink, add one to the back of the door and consider using multiple mirrors as a design feature along the walls.

Texture

Rooms with different textures appeal to the senses and can be created easily and inexpensively. Include a couple simple items such as a shaggy, luxurious rug or dried flowers tied with a ribbon and hanging from the wall. Try long, elegant drapes backed with a waterproof curtain around the tub. Remember that you are dealing with a small room, so resist the urge to include too many items. This will only make the space appear small, cluttered and busy.

Storage

Install shelves above the toilet, use towel rings instead of bars and choose cabinets with sliding doors instead of hinged ones. Most small mobile home bathrooms have at least one cabinet under the sink, so use this space well. Add racks and hooks to the inside of doors, install shelving and use pull-out bins. For pedestal sinks, use a small fabric curtain to hide under sink shelving and storage. Combine decoration and utility when possible, such as storing toilet paper in a small basket or displaying jewelry on the wall.

Tags: mobile home, home bathrooms, mobile home bathrooms, small space, mobile homes, that does, under sink

Light Fixtures For A Victorian Fan

Select a fluted globe for a Victorian fan.

A Victorian decorative motif has charming characteristics that are reminiscent of an era of femininity and ornamentation. If you have a Victorian ceiling fan and want to add a light fixture to the design, you can purchase a light kit that allows you to combine illumination and historic elegance. Decorative globes and detailed accessories complement a Victorian-inspired fan.

Light Kit

Install a light kit on your Victorian ceiling fan if you want to add a light source to your decor. A light kit is an accessory that attaches to the bottom of a ceiling fan and offers a variety of lighting options. Choose either a central diffusing light kit fixture or a glass cluster that has individual sockets for a Victorian-inspired design. Choose your glass globes and attachments at the same time you purchase your light kit to ensure compatibility.

Glass Globes

Select glass globes to add to your Victorian ceiling fan light fixture. Choose one large center globe to cover a single diffusing light source. Opt for individual globes to adorn a four to six arm light fixture with individual sockets. Choose glass globes with a Victorian Bristol style for an antique-inspired ceiling fan. Victorian Bristol glass is designed in soft pastel colors and has a delicate hand painted botanical motif. If you are unable to find authentic Bristol-inspired globes, opt for milky opalescent globes in light pastel colors with fluted rims.

Crystal Pull Chain

Add dramatic, feminine ornamentation to your ceiling fan by installing crystal or glass prisms at the end of your pull chains. Pull chains allow you to control the speed of your fan and turn the light source off and on. The reflective glass in prisms casts glittering light around a room and encourages the romanticism of the Victorian era. Choose clear diamond-like crystal prisms for a neutral room design, or select a colored glass prism that coordinates with your color scheme. Avoid plastic prisms that look cloudy and artificial and don't complement a Victorian ceiling fan.

Beaded Shades

Choose beaded lampshades to cover the bulb in each individual light socket of your light kit. Only use lampshades if your light fixture does not have globes. To add to the drama and elegance of the Victorian time period, select small satin lampshades in yellow-gold or rosy-red fabric colors. Purchase lampshades that have dangling crystal, ruby or onyx beads. Opt for 40 or 60 watt soft white light bulbs to create a warm and inviting atmosphere.

Tags: light fixture, Victorian ceiling, glass globes, light source, your light

What Use To Make A Dressing Vanity

A vanity can mix flairs of Victorian, Hollywood Glamour and modern style.

The vanity, or dressing table, so popular in the Victorian era and again during the height of Old Hollywood is back in vogue. The dressing table is not only about function and providing a designated area to get ready for the day or evening ahead, but it is also about style. The vanity itself is only part of it; other elements include comfortable seating, storage, lighting, mirror and accessories. You don't need furniture designed specifically for a vanity, however. You have other ways to achieve the same look, feel and function of a vanity using your own personal style.

Whole Unit

If you already own a vanity you want to use, you are well on your way. If not, shop in your personal store and look for a desk, table, bureau or buffet table you can repurpose. The height of the piece you select should allow you to sit comfortably at the vanity and preferably allow you to pull your seating under the middle or one side of it. If nothing you already own appeals to you, shop in secondhand stores for vintage pieces and search online at an auction or classified site. If you prefer something new, vanities are widely available today at major retailers and specialty stores, and you can expand your search by including desks, tables, bureaus, and buffet tables as options. If you find a piece you want to use, but it is dated or not the right color, paint it according to your preference, and replace drawer knobs with newer ones in your style.

Pieces

Design your dressing table to suit your style and needs; using a ready-made unit isn't necessary. Create your vanity with one shelf mounted to the wall with decorative brackets, and add complementary shelving above it if desired. Leave room over your main shelf for your signature mirror. A vintage door or gate topped with a glass or Plexiglas top are other options; the glass/Plexiglas will create a smooth and even surface and also make cleaning easier. Place your repurposed top over trunks, storage cabinets, bookshelves or end tables to create the whole unit.

Seating

Traditional vanity sets often include a small stool with a low back, or no back at all, but you can select any type of seating you want. Depending on the height of your new vanity, consider an ottoman or a full-size dining room chair with a high back. Stools with built-in storage are also available in an array of colors, textures and patterns. Add a luxurious pillow to your seating for a decorative and comfortable touch.

Mirror and Lighting

A large mirror on top or over a dressing table is a signature of the traditional vanity. Shop your own inventory, and use a decorative wall mirror you already own, if possible, and do the same for lighting. Repaint mirror frames, wall sconces and lamp bases to match your dressing table color scheme, if desired, and replace lampshades with others you own or purchase.

Accessories

Decorate your vanity with accessories that make you feel good and add to the ambiance, such as candles, vintage perfume bottles, a jewelry stand or box, fresh flowers, picture frames with favorite photos and trinkets with personal meaning to you. Repurpose other household items for decorative but functional accessories; use vases, glasses, bowls, tea cups, plates and bowls to store or place items you want at your fingertips rather than ready-made storage solutions found in bed and bath stores. Add a decorative and plush rug to the foot of your new dressing table as a final touch and barefoot comfort as you prepare for the day or evening ahead.

Tags: dressing table, your dressing, your dressing table, your vanity, your vanity with, evening ahead, glass Plexiglas

Design Ideas For Small Living Rooms

A small living room can be warm and cozy, ideal for lazy afternoons and quiet evenings. The small living room can also be fun and funky and an interesting space for entertaining in an intimate setting. Designing for a small living room requires a unique approach, one that includes optimizing space and using color to showcase the room's architecture.

Scale

One small love seat and two spindly chairs won't open up the space or make the room look larger. Such a seating arrangement will make the room look sparse and uninviting. Instead, focus on two or three upholstered pieces that have low backs and arms but provide comfortable seating. Use tables that have cubbyholes or drawers for storage; these will not only help control clutter but will also add some needed weight to the room without taking up space.

Arrangements

Keep the seating arrangement tight, using the standard U-shaped seating for entertaining. Place your couch against a wall and set the upholstered chairs to either side, facing each other. For watching television, the chairs can be turned. This will maintain the flow of space and traffic and allow the arrangement to serve two purposes: entertaining and watching television.

Accessories

Use accessories sparingly, but use them to bring in color and texture. Large canvases of colorful artwork, oversized pots and floor cushions stacked in a corner all add splashes of color and a tactile sense to the room. If you want to display a collection, use a wall niche or a corner display cabinet to contain the pieces.

Color

Use brilliant hues on your walls and in your fabrics to brighten the room. Play up any architectural elements, such as arched entryways. With these, paint the interior of the arch a color that contrasts with your wall color. If you prefer lighter-colored walls, add a darker hue on an accent wall or play up the windows with colorful window treatments. Use bold colors in your patterned fabrics and anchor the color with solid fabrics in a neutral shade.

Lighting

Use lighting to show off the colors and textures in the space. Flank your couch with table lamps that stand tall on the end tables. In each opposite corner, set floor lamps that mimic the shape and color of the table lamps. This will flood the room with light without overpowering it. Keep the top of the lamps at the same height; this will create continuity and make for more even lighting as well.

Flooring

Use an area rug to pull the whole space together. Choose an area rug that is large enough to "support" your entire seating arrangement. This will define its space and give the room a sense of extended space beyond the seating arrangement.

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Paint Antique Ceiling Tiles

Antique ceiling tiles should be painted as authentically as possible.

Old ceiling tiles, typically made of tin, were usually designed to replicate the ornate plaster found in grander homes. Consider yourself lucky if you have antique ceiling tiles in your home, and consider painting them a color in keeping with your home's vintage. The National Park Service's guidelines for rehabilitating historic buildings stress maintaining the original character of the building materials as much as possible. If you bought antique ceiling tiles and want to paint them to use as decorative accents, it shouldn't be a difficult project as long as you have space to set up a work bench.

Instructions

1. Remove as much furniture as possible from the room when painting ceiling tiles in place, and cover the remaining furniture and the floors with plastic sheeting and drop cloths.

2. Wash the ceiling tiles with a rag, hot water and grease-cutting detergent. For very heavily soiled tiles, use tri-sodium phosphate cleaner; for lightly soiled tiles, dishwashing detergent will work just fine.

3. Remove loose rust and paint with sandpaper. If the tiles are heavily embossed or stamped, use steel or copper wool. Wipe them down with a damp rag.

4. Prime the tiles with shellac- or oil-based rust-inhibiting primer. Use a sponge or lambswool roller to more easily paint a stamped surface. If you're just painting a few tiles not installed on a ceiling, use a paintbrush. Allow the primer to dry as indicated on the can.

5. Paint the ceiling tiles with two coats of water-based paint. Antique stamped tiles look better in a satin or semi-gloss finish because it highlights the decorative texture.

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Planked Ceiling Treatments

Planked Ceiling Treatments

Planked, or beadboard, ceilings can enhance any decor. They add visual interest to an area of the room that is, sadly, often neglected. They also accentuate country or seaside cottage design themes and lend casual elegance to any room. Whatever your design aesthetic, planked ceiling treatments can turn your simple ceilings into design features of any room.

About Planked Ceilings

Planks, or beadboard, are available in thin or wide styles. The usual measurements, regardless of plank style, are 5 to 6 inches wide and 48 to 84 inches long. Decor possibilities are endless, including painting or staining the planks. You can laminate the planks, and they are an environmentally conscious choice, because they are sometimes culled from architectural salvage.

Using Planked Ceilings to Complement Your Decor

Planked ceilings are usually found in post-and-beam homes, which lend themselves to country or cottage decor. Nothing says understated country like wide-planked ceilings in a creamy shade of white paint flanked by beams. Planked ceilings can work in any room, but they especially enhance the cozy aspects of a bedroom or family room. You can add extra country appeal by installing planks to the ceiling of a front porch.

Planked Ceilings as a Design Alternative

Do Popcorn Ceiling

Ceilings can be overlooked when sprucing up a home. Texturing can add some spice to your ceiling. It can also hide stains or cracks that develop in ceilings over time. A popcorn ceiling can be added with limited expense, in as little as two days.

Instructions

1. Clean the ceiling and allow it to dry completely.

2. Apply stain blocking primer to ceiling. Allow primer to dry completely.

3. Use the bucket to prepare the textured (popcorn) ceiling mix according to label directions. Most texture mixes only require the addition of a specific amount of water per bag of mix. Stir using the drill. The mixture should resemble thick soup.

4. Cover floors, walls, windows and furniture with plastic sheeting, and secure in place with painter's tape. Open the windows for ventilation.

5. Fill the texturing spray gun with the mixture. Wearing the respirator and goggles, test the sprayer on a piece of cardboard. This will give you an idea of the consistency of the mixture.

6. Use a back and forth motion to apply the texture mixture to the ceiling. Repeat as necessary to cover the entire ceiling. Spread the texture mixture into the ceiling corners using the trowel. Also use the trowel to clean any overspray. Clean all equipment with water upon completion.

7. Remove plastic sheeting. Ceiling must dry for 24 hours before paint application.

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