Decorative Metal Ceiling Tiles

Decorative metal ceiling tiles were popular during the middle to late part of the nineteenth century. The three original manufacturers continued making these tiles and two of them still exist today. Modern companies have discovered how popular the pieces are and began making them in more elaborate and complex designs. Today, shoppers can find vintage, faux vintage and contemporary styles.

Style

There are typically two styles associated with decorative metal ceiling tiles. The first is known as vintage ceiling tiles. These were taken from historic or older buildings before they were demolished or during a remodeling project. There are also contemporary styles available that tend to look more modern. Additionally there are a few companies making replica tiles that look like the original metal tiles used during the nineteenth century, but were created during modern times.

Pattern

There are far too many patterns associated with decorative metal ceiling tiles to list them all here, but there are a few variations. The first type is the tiles that work together to create a larger design. These typically have an open design on the sides, which allows them to fit together. They may also have a larger random pattern that allows it to work alone or as a group. There are also patterns that are considered stand-alone styles. These have an outer edge and a central design so they still look beautiful even if there are only a few grouped together.

Metal

Tin is the most popular choice in terms of decorative metal ceiling tiles. Tin was used often in the creation of vintage tiles and it is still used by many companies. However other companies are using different types of metal, which allows building owners to find something that fits the style of the building. Stainless steel and aluminum are used because the materials tend to be flexible and lightweight. Other companies use copper because of its unusual color.

Uses

Decorative metal ceiling tiles have far more uses than just the standard ceiling. These tiles can be used along one wall to create an unusual looking area or a focal point to a room. They can also be grouped together to create a wainscoting effect in a room. There are also some businesses looking to these ceiling tiles because of the clean, yet unusual design they produce. These businesses place the tiles along the ceiling to give the room a more elaborate feel.

Size

Decorative metal ceiling tiles come in three standard sizes: 6-inch, 12-inch and 24-inch. Size applies to all sides, making each piece a perfect square. Shoppers can cut down the pieces to fit smaller spaces or abnormally shaped rooms. When the design of the tile is raised, this area of the tile is less than one inch tall, to create a an easy to see design, but without making the tile look heavy.

Tags: ceiling tiles, metal ceiling, metal ceiling tiles, There also, tiles used, associated with

Design On A Dime Kitchen Ideas

Glass jars give your kitchen a unifed appearance as well as an inexpensive design option.

Redesigning your kitchen does not need to be an expensive or exhausting procedure. Your kitchen is a place where you need to feel comfortable and where everything should be easily accessible. This goal can be achieved cheaply and effectively, so choose the options that allow you to relax and do exactly as you please.

Hanging Pots

Install towel racks on your kitchen wall and hang large S-hooks from them. Then pull your pots and pans out of the cabinet and hang them up on the wall. Not only does this allow you to have more cupboard space, the pots and pans give your kitchen some visual variety on otherwise plain walls. You can limit it to one towel rack to display your nicest pots and pans, or you can simply hang all of your cooking ware up on the wall and free up space.

Plate Hangers

Pick up plate hangers from a local hardware store and use them to hang up your nicest plates. These plates can be arranged as a casual backsplash in your kitchen or they can be arranged as a border near the ceiling. Plate hangers are attached to the wall quickly and simply, and then the plates are simply mounted on the hangers. This frees up cabinet space and puts your nice plates in a place where people can see them.

Glass Bottles

Save clean glass bottles and then fill them with water. Add a few drops of food coloring to each bottle and place it on a windowsill in your kitchen. The light coming through the water makes for a multi-colored light effect that looks a little like stained glass. Refresh the water whenever you feel like it, and if you get tired of it, simply throw out the water and recycle the glass.

Framed Calendar Prints

Take apart an old calendar and frame the prints that you cut out. Frames can be acquired from bargain stores or rummage sales, and you can paint them with acrylic paint to match your kitchen design. Look for country-themed calendars that happen to be on sale late in the year.

Glass Jars

Buy a set of glass jars from a yard sale or simply save the glass jars that sauces and pickles come in. Rinse them thoroughly in hot water to get rid of labels or glue and then use them to store your dry goods. Lentils, salt, sugar and flour can all be stored in glass jars, and the glass jars can be displayed on your counter for a country kitchen look.

Tags: your kitchen, glass jars, pots pans, your kitchen, give your, give your kitchen

Secure Plaster Ceilings

Use plasterboard sheets over ceiling joists to provide support for plaster coatings.

Before modern building methods, plastering a ceiling required the installation of a strong support system consisting primarily of wood lathe attached in strips across ceiling joists. While plasterboard still requires a series of furring channels for attachment to the joists along the roof, far fewer channels are needed than the old-fashioned strips required by the old process. This speeds the process of creating a support surface.

Instructions

1. Measure the length of the room running perpendicular to the line of the ceiling joists. Mark the wall at the edge of the ceiling every 16 inches, using chalk.

2. Cut the metal furring channels to fit the length of the room, using tin snips. Cut a metal furring strip for each of the chalk marks on the wall. Measure the distance between each wood joist and attach a furring channel clip to each metal strip so you can attach the channels to the joists. Slide the clips over the ends of the channel.

3. Climb a ladder and hold the metal furring channels against the ceiling joists at the marked locations, positioning the clips at each joist crossing. Secure the channels in place by driving wood screws through the mounting holes in the clips and into the joists. Drive the screws quickly into place with an electric dill and a screw bit.

4. Attach the plasterboard to the furring strips by placing plasterboard adhesive onto the furring strips every 10 inches. Use a dab of adhesive about the size of a walnut at each placement point. Use a telescopic gas lifter to lift and hold the heavy plasterboard into place, pressing it onto the adhesive. Screw the boards into place every 8 inches along the furring strips, using drywall screws to hold the boards into place.

5. Cut all boards to fit with the utility knife. Score the board with the knife along the desired cutting line, then snap the board from the rear along the scored line to break the board at the cut.

6. Place a strip of plastic tape over the joints between boards to prevent cracking once you cover the boards in plaster.

Tags: ceiling joists, into place, every inches, furring channels, furring strips, metal furring

Secure A Wall To A Suspended Ceiling

Walls can be attached to suspended ceilings.

Building walls in areas where a suspended ceiling exists requires you to carefully cut and alter the ceiling or to simply attach the wall to the suspended ceiling. Attaching directly to the suspended ceiling is a good option when you do not want the hassle of modifying a suspended ceiling, which is not an easy task. Attaching to a suspended ceiling is sufficient anchoring for most walls, but not in all cases. You would not want to attach exercise equipment to such a wall because, over time, the wall could work loose.

Instructions

1. Build the wall and secure it to the floor. Do not place it at a height that pushes up the ceiling or is more than 1/2 inch below it. Ideally, the wall should be less than a 1/2-inch from the suspended ceiling without touching it.

2. Plumb the wall and mark the grid of the suspended ceiling with a pencil. Mark it on each end of the wall. If your ceiling is aligned with the wall, measure off of the grid to set the location of the wall. If not, use your eye or a string to align the wall.

3. Insert shims between the ceiling grid and the top of the wall. This keeps the ceiling from bending when the screws are installed.

4. Install a drywall screw through the ceiling grid and shims into the top plate of the wall. Attach screws to the wall every 2 feet.

Tags: suspended ceiling, suspended ceiling, ceiling grid, wall your

Trim Around Interior Columns

Though vital and often unavoidable, support posts and columns can be unsightly and awkward if left bare or inappropriately trimmed. If, however, support columns are integrated properly into the overall design and theme, they can add greatly to the feel and ambiance of an interior space. In a basement remodel, where support columns break up the natural flow of the space, wrapping them in finished hardwoods to match the surrounding casing and millwork can create a kind of continuity that lends itself to grace and flow.

Instructions

1. Assemble the column sub straight. Using the table saw, rip the 8-inch veneer panels to length, measuring from floor to ceiling. Miter the vertical edges on the table saw. Glue and finish nail the column sub straight around the support post.

2. Fill in all seam gaps and nail holes with wood filler matching the hardwood species, and finish sand all four surfaces to at least a 220-grit smoothness.

3. Attach pencil mold detail. Carefully mark out the desired pattern in pencil on all four sides of the column sub straight. Glue and finish nail the pencil mold to the column sub straight.

4. Install crown molding. Using the miter saw, cut the compound 45-degree crown molding joints; when cutting an outside, 90-degree corner, set the crown molding on the miter saw base plate with the bottom profile pointing up; you will cut away from the center of the molding piece. Finish nail the crown molding around the column, gluing each mitered joint.

5. Install base molding. Using the miter saw cut the simple 45-degree base molding joints. Finish nail the base molding around the column gluing each mitered joint.

6. Fill in all seam gaps and nail holes with wood filler matching the hardwood species, and finish sand all molding profiles to at least a 220-grit smoothness.

7. Brush on selected wood stain. Using a cotton cloth, rub the stain into the grain, wiping off any excess. Allow the stain to dry.

8. Gently scuff all of the surfaces with steel wool. Remove any dust particles or debris. Apply 2 to 3 coats of aerosol lacquer, scuffing between each coat.

Tags: column straight, crown molding, base molding, 220-grit smoothness, around column, around column gluing, column gluing

Remove A Popcorn Ceiling By Sanding

Remove a Popcorn Ceiling by Sanding

Popcorn ceilings are one of those unfortunate staple construction practices from the 1970s that many of today's homeowners are trying to get rid of. The process is not fun, clean, or easy, but with hard work and the right tools you can get it done and reclaim a sense of style in your home once more. Sanding is one method that can simplify the process for you, provided your ceilings do not have several applications of the popcorn texture.

Instructions

1. Scrape a small amount of the texture into a plastic bag for testing (a local hardware store can point you to a local EPA-certified asbestos testing center) and wait until you receive the results. Call a certified asbestos remover if the tests are positive.

2. Remove all furniture from the room and turn off power via the circuit breaker in the home. Carefully detach any ceiling fans or light fixtures and place them elsewhere for the duration of the project.

3. Spread your plastic dropcloth over the entire floor, making sure it is taped 12 inches up the wall rather than just going to the edge of the floor. Cover all walls in the room up to the ceiling as well.

4. Put on your safety mask and some old clothes to deal with the dust. Take your power sander and begin to gently grind away the textured surface on the ceilings. When you see the original drywall paper that lies beneath the spray-on coating, stop and move to another section. Use the pole sander if your arms get tired from holding the power sander over your head.

5. Apply spackle to any damaged areas once the popcorn ceiling has been removed, and then paint however you like.

Tags: Ceiling Sanding, Popcorn Ceiling, Popcorn Ceiling Sanding, power sander, Remove Popcorn, Remove Popcorn Ceiling

Replace A Bathroom Light & Fan Switch

If your light switch has worn out and is not operating your fan or light properly, it is time to change it. Changing your light switch is a very simple process. You will be saving money and adding functionality back to the most needed switch in the house.

Instructions

1. Turn off the main electricity to the entire house at the breaker.

2. Take off the faceplate from the switches by unscrewing the middle screw on the faceplate.

3. Unscrew the switches by turning the screws on each end of the switch counter-clockwise.

4. Pull the switches out of the conduit box. Mark the wires to know which one is for the fan and which one is for the light.

5. Unscrew the wires and remove them from the switches by turning the screws on the side of the switches counter-clockwise.

6. Match the wire color to the screw label that is marked on the switch: Black to the screw labeled black, and white to the screw labeled white. The bare copper wire will screw into the green screw that is on the metal housing of the switch.

7. Screw the switches tightly into the conduit box once connected to the wires. Turn the screws on each switch clockwise. Install the faceplate and then screw it back on until the screw is snug. Do not over tighten or your faceplate might crack. Turn back on the electricity and test your installation.

Tags: your light, your light switch, each switch, from switches, light switch, screw labeled, screws each

Exterior Window Trim

Trim can be added to the exterior of a window.

New windows that are installed in a home typically need to be covered in trim to hide insulation or framing. Trim can be wood or vinyl, depending on what has been used on the exterior of the house. Adding trim can be done using the old trim as a guide, if available, when measuring and cutting new trim pieces to install around the window.

Instructions

1. Place a scrap piece of trim against one side of the window and make a mark with the pencil. Repeat this step on the other side of the window.

2. Measure the distance between the two marks, and add two inches. Transfer the measurement to a piece of window stool.

3. Set the miter saw to the degree of bevel on the front edge of the window, if needed. Cut the window stool to the required length with the miter saw.

4. Place the window stool against the sill and mark the ends. This will indicate where it will need to be trimmed to fit into the window. Cut a notch out of both ends of the window stool with the jigsaw.

5. Place the window stool back in place to see how it will fit. If it still does not fit properly, trim a bit more from the ends. Tack the window stool in place with the nail gun.

6. Measure up from the window stool to the top of one side of the window. Transfer this measurement to a piece of trim. Set the miter saw to 45 degrees and make a left-side cut. Repeat this step and make a right-side cut on the other side of the window.

7. Set the trim pieces in place against the side of the window. Secure them with the nail gun.

8. Lay a piece of trim upside down on the two pieces of trim, on the sides of the window. Make a mark at the location of the tips of the trim that are on each side of the window.

9. Cut a left-side and right-side cut, at 45 degrees, on the piece of trim with the miter saw. Set the piece of trim in place at the top of the window and secure it with the nail gun.

Tags: window stool, side window, piece trim, with nail, against side, against side window

Wire A Bath Fan & Light With Two Switches & Power At A Switch

Switches operate a fan and light off the same electric feed.

A bathroom fan and light often use separate switches that tap into the same electric source. Usually, an electrician runs a feeder wire from the circuit breaker to the bathroom's switch box. A pigtail wire connection in the switch box sends the power to both switches. A wire set then delivers electricity from the selected switch to the fan or light. This wiring application works with both a fan/light combination unit and when the fan and light mount in different parts of the bathroom.

Instructions

1. Strip 3/8 inch of the insulation from each wire in the switch box with wire strippers. The wire sets in the switch box will contain two or three insulated wires and an uninsulated wire. Wire sets with two insulated wires use white and black insulation. Wire sets with three insulated wires contain white, black and usually red insulated wires.

2. Remove 3/8 inch of the insulation from the wires at the fan and light with wire strippers. If the fan and light mount to different locations in the bathroom, each wire set will contain two insulated and one uninsulated wire. If the fan and light mount in the same unit, either a single wire set with three insulated wires and one uninsulated wire or two wire sets with two insulated and one uninsulated wire will enter the unit.

3. Twist all of the white-colored wires in the switch box together, then secure them with a wire nut. Push the white wires to the back of the switch box.

4. Cut four pieces of 14-gauge wire 6 inches long with wire cutters. Remove 3/8 inch of the insulation from each end of each wire, called jumper wires, with the wire strippers.

5. Wrap one end of a jumper wire around a switch's green ground screw. Tighten the ground screw with a slotted screwdriver. Repeat this with the second switch.

6. Twist the uninsulated wires in the switch box to the ends of the jumper wires connected to the switches' ground screws. Secure the ground wires with a wire nut, forming a pigtail wire connection. Push the ground wires to the back of the switch box.

7. Combine the black wire from the circuit breaker to one end of both remaining jumper wires. Hold the wires together with a wire nut, forming a pigtail wire connection.

8. Fold the end of one pigtail jumper wire around a gold-colored switch screw. Tighten the switch's screw with a flat head screwdriver. Repeat this with the second pigtail jumper wire and switch.

9. Bend the end of the black wire in the wire set feeding the fan around the silver-colored screw on the fan's switch. Tighten the switch screw.

10. Fold the end of the light's power wire over the second switch's silver-colored screw. If the wire set feeding a fan/light combination unit uses three insulated wires, then the light uses the red wire for power. Use the remaining black wire if the fan and light each use a two-strand plus ground wire set.

11. Twist the bath fan's power wire to the black wire from the fan switch. Cover the wires with a wire nut.

12. Connect the bath fan's common wire to the white wire from the fan switch and screw a wire nut over them. Fan/light combination units usually share the common wire.

13. Wrap the bath light's power wire around the power wire from the light switch and protect them with a wire nut. Use the remaining wire in a fan/light combination unit, the wire with red or black insulation. Use the black wire when the light fixture mounts to a different spot in the bathroom from the fan.

14. Twist the light's common wire to the light switch's white wire. Cover the wires with a wire nut. Skip this step if the fan/light combination unit uses a wire set with three insulated wires coming from the switch box.

15. Attach the uninsulated wires to the fan's and light fixture's ground terminal. Fan/light combination units, fan-only units and light fixtures usually use a single green-colored screw, located in the appliance's electrical connection box, as a ground connection.

Tags: with wire, insulated wires, light combination, black wire, three insulated, three insulated wires

Ocean Bathroom Decorating

Decorate your bathroom so it looks like you're on a relaxing, tropical vacation.

Perhaps you want to remember your favorite vacation, when you relaxed soothed by ocean breezes and swam in salt water. Or maybe you simply like the look of lighthouses on rocky outposts or the sight of dolphins frolicking in the waves. Whatever scenes appeal to you, decorating your bathroom in an ocean theme opens a world of possibilities.

Tiles

One way to decorate a bathroom with an ocean theme is to use natural stone flooring. This creates a warm look and feel in the bathroom that's reminiscent of relaxed island living. Another idea is to use ceramic mosaic tiles on the walls or floor to create almost any image possible, including an underwater scene, waves crashing on sand, a sunset or tropical palms. Some tiles are available with ocean themed images already painted on them so you can choose to use these instead. Or be even more creative and, instead of using tiles, create a border of real seashells and sand dollars around your walls using grout.

Paint

Paint a mural of an ocean scene in your bathroom if you don't want to use tiles. Choose a design that covers most of your bathroom walls or create a focal point by painting one wall. Some scenes to choose from are underwater life, a lighthouse, a tropical beach or sailboats out on the waves. Alternatively, you can use paint to stencil seashells, waves, fish, starfish, turtles, crabs or seahorses or a combination of these images to create a border or a random pattern on your bathroom walls.

Window Treatments

Keep the window treatments in your ocean-themed bathroom simple. Avoid using window treatments with prints and use the same color for your curtains as you do for your walls. This is especially important if you have a small bathroom because the continuity in color helps to make it appear larger. However, if you don't want to use the same color, stick with neutral colors such as beige and white. Choose natural materials such as bamboo blinds or woven wood blinds. Shutters are also appropriate as window treatments.

Accessories

Accessorize with seashell candles, glass jars full of seashells, sand dollars and dried starfish or soaps shaped like fish, seashells, seahorses and starfish. Another way to use seashells and starfish in your design is to place some in a shadow box that you can hang on the wall. Decorate with a mirror framed with seashells. Hang ocean-themed prints on your bathroom walls and place rolled hand towels in a woven basket. Use a clear plastic shower curtain if you feel that your bathroom looks too busy but otherwise, you can hang a printed shower curtain with an ocean theme. Choose towels in colors that remind you of the ocean or choose white or beige towels reminiscent of sand and seashells.

Tags: your bathroom, bathroom walls, ocean theme, with ocean, your bathroom walls, bathroom looks

Decorate A Ceiling For An Elegant Party

Don't forget about the ceiling decor at your next party.

More than likely, you have gone to a party where the decor is breathtaking, until you look up at the plain, drab white ceiling. The ceiling, sometimes neglected compared to the rest of a room, can be tough to decorate. Depending on the venue you chose, the ceiling may be too high, or virtually impossible to hang things from. However, a well-decorated ceiling, whether elaborate or simple, can significantly enhance the beauty of an elegant party.

Instructions

1. Cover the ceiling with balloons. If a ceiling is just too high up but you still want to decorate it in some way, balloons filled with helium may be your best bet. Use the theme colors of the party, sticking to no more than two colors to keep it classy. Find out the approximate size of the ceiling so that the party store will know how many balloons you will need.

2. Hang fabric from the ceiling. Long pieces of white silk or chiffon fabric draped across the length of the ceiling add drama and elegance to any event and are popular at weddings. Use any rafters the ceiling may have to drape the fabric from the corners of the room to the center. If the ceiling does not have rafters, you can still elegantly hang the fabric in long sections from one end of the ceiling to the other.

3. Hang paper lanterns from the ceiling. Round paper lanterns are ideal for evening parties that are dimly lit. If the ceiling is paneled you can hang the lanterns from hooks and hang them from the panels, or you can hang them from the rafters. Hang the lanterns at different levels to create depth in the room.

4. String lights across the ceiling. Christmas lights strung across the ceiling add a festive sparkle to a party. Weave the lights through any rafters the venue may have, or simply string them across the room.

Tags: from ceiling, across ceiling, fabric from, hang them, hang them from, lanterns from, paper lanterns

Separate A Room Without Building A Wall

There are several ways to separate a room without building a wall, all you need is imagination. One idea is to hang antique stained glass windows or old arched windows from the ceiling. Look for either type of window at antique stores and architectural supply yards. You can also build a custom divider to separate a room and decorate each side differently. Bead curtains and furniture placement are two more ways to delineate a space, neither of which requires building a wall.

Instructions

1. Hang a series of antique stained glass window panels or architecturally interesting window panels between two spaces to separate a room without building a wall. Attach two screw hooks along the top edge of each window and in the ceiling where you'd like to separate the room. Make sure that at least one of the hooks for each window is inserted into a ceiling joist to hold the weight of the window. Connect the window to the ceiling hooks with chain. You can hang as many windows as you need to create the divide between the rooms, you can also hang them one from another.

2. Place a divider screen between two spaces in a large room to separate the areas without building a wall. Divider screens come in a variety of sizes, but you can make your own by attaching three or more wood panels together with hinges. Decorate the wood panels with framed photos or artwork to make your room divider into a display area. You can paint a landscape on the opposite side of the room divider panels to decorate the separate space in a completely different way. Each panel could be a separate section of the landscape, with the overall image completed with the combined panels. If you are artistically challenged, project the image onto the panels and trace them as you would a wall mural.

3. Separate a room with a bead curtain made with bamboo beads that you can paint or with colorful glass beads to add sparkle to both spaces. String floor to ceiling long strands of beads to hang from a curtain rod that separates the space. You can find bulk beads from online retailers. Fishing line works well to string most types of beads, just make sure to add a drop of glue to help secure the knots at the bottom and the top.

4. Separate a room into two distinct areas with furniture type and placement. For example, if you need to separate a dining room from a living space, arrange the sofa or chairs in the living room with the back to the dining room. The types of furniture in both spaces indicate the intent of the room, but the furniture arrangement separates the spaces.

Tags: building wall, without building, without building wall, antique stained, antique stained glass

Ideas For A Stretch Ceiling

Stretch ceilings can produce a number of ceiling shapes, such as domes and arches.

Sometimes a false ceiling is in order for safety and fire regulations or the ease of being able to access ventilation shafts quickly. Traditional suspended ceilings are not always the most aesthetically pleasing, which is why some people turn to stretch ceilings. A stretch ceiling opens up quite a few design possibilities that cannot be done with a traditional false ceiling.

Printed Designs

Unlike other false-ceiling options, stretch ceilings can be printed on. The ability to print on the ceiling allows designers to create the look of a mural on the ceiling or to have stars or clouds overhead to transform the indoor space into a piece of the outside. Printed designs on stretch ceilings give an almost unlimited number of options to complement a room's decor.

Textures and Colors

Many people are not aware that stretch ceilings come in a variety of textures, which can help set a certain feel for a room or continue an already established theme. Stretch ceiling textures include metallic, lacquer, translucent and matte. As for colors, stretch ceilings can come in well over 150 color options, according to international interior design firm Plafon Decor.

Shapes

Unlike traditional false ceilings, stretch ceilings can be shaped in a variety of forms. Domes, arches, light diffusers and a variety of other shapes are possible. Because of the ability to conform to any shape, stretch ceiling panels can be used to form abstract shapes and other raised designs on ceilings. Several colors of stretch ceiling panels can be used together in a number of designs.

Tags: stretch ceiling, stretch ceilings, stretch ceilings, ceiling panels, ceiling panels used, ceilings come

Correct Sagging Ceiling Beams & Joists

Ceiling joists are essential for the structure of the roof.

Unsightly ceiling joist sags are a common occurrence in old ceilings. They often occur because of warps from weather and temperature. Sometimes they come about when different materials are used between the frame and the joists. You can correct a sagging ceiling by overlaying a two-piece strongback on the joists. The strongback is a plank of wood, stood on its side to provide strength, which sits on the ceiling frame and intersects with each joist at the point of the sag.

Instructions

Preparing the Site

1. Determine the location of the sag. Run your level along the joist to find the point at which the level indicates the beam is level with the ground, which will be the bottom-most point of the u-shaped sag. Mark these points on the joists, and mark the same parts on the ceiling frame.

2. Jack up the ceiling with the bottle jack. If needed, extend the jack's range by standing a straight plank on top of it. Lay a solid wood block below the jack to avoid damaging the floor. Jack up the ceiling slowly, about a quarter of an inch per day.

3. Measure the distance between the joists. That will determine the length of the strongback needed.

Constructing the Strongback

4. Lay the two-by-four flat on the ground and lay the two-by-eight stiffener on its side right next to it. The planks of wood will be parallel to each other, but viewed from the side they will appear to form an "L" shape. Using two nails per 2 feet of plank, nail the stiffener to the 2 x 4.

5. Prepare the platform the strongback will sit on. Set the two-by-six blocks onto the ceiling frame in an upright position on the marks on the frame you made in Section 1, Step 1. Lay them so that the 6-inch sides are parallel to the joists. The length of the blocks should stick straight up, forming the platform that the strongback will sit on.

6. Toenail the block onto the frame with four 6d nails. To do so, make small marks in the block with a pencil 3/4 of an inch from the bottom of the frame, two on each side. Place your foot behind the block and line up a nail with one of the marks. Nail the wood about a quarter inch of the way straight into the block from the other side. Remove the nail and angle it 50 degrees downward. Hammer the nail in all the way. Repeat this step for the earlier marks. Toenail the other blocks onto the frame by repeating this step.

7. Lay the strongback over the ceiling joists and toenailed blocks. Using two 12d nails per joist or block, nail the two-by-four of the strongback to the joists.

Tags: ceiling frame, about quarter, about quarter inch, blocks onto, Jack ceiling, onto frame, quarter inch

Run Electrical Wire Into A Fixed Ceiling

A fixed ceiling is made of sheet rock, wood or other similar material that cannot be removed easily. The contrast to this type of ceiling are those made of removable tiles. Running electrical wire into a fixed ceiling is not difficult when there is enough room to move across the attic, even if you have to crawl on your stomach. If the attic is not accessible, electrical wires have to be run through a channel secured to the outside surfaces of walls and ceilings.

Instructions

Access to the Attic

1. Determine whether you are going to tap into an existing circuit or install a new one. This decision needs to be based on the amount of load on existing circuits and what electrical fixtures or appliances you are adding with the new wiring. It will be assumed that a new circuit is going to be added.

2. Go to your breaker box, remove the inside panel and punch out one of the knock-outs in the top of the box for the new non-metallic sheathed cable.

3. Ask a helper to go into the attic with a fish tape, drill and bit. The helper needs to move to where the existing circuits run through the wall to the breaker box. A hole is drilled into the header plate next to the existed wires and then, the end of the fish tape is pushed through the hole and down the wall until it hits the top of the breaker box.

4. Watch for the end of the fish tape. When it appears, grab the end with a pair of needle-nose pliers and pull it into the breaker box.

5. Strip about 6 inches of sheathing from the end of a roll of 12-2 non-metallic sheathed electrical cable. Peel about 3 inches of insulation from the individual wires in the cable.

6. Thread the peeled wires through the eye at the end of the fish tape and bend the wires back against themselves. Wrap the connection of the cable and fish tape with electrical tape until it is a smooth joint with no sharp edges.

7. Ask your helper to slowly pull the fish tape and cable up through the wall into the attic.

Using Wire Channel

8. Run electric cable into the house through a wall into a junction box designed to be used with wire channel.

9. Fasten switch boxes to the wall where light switches will be located. Secure outlet boxes to the wall where light fixtures will be located.

10. Connect all boxes with pieces of channel which can be cut to the desired length with a hack saw. Secure the channel to the wall.

Tags: fish tape, through wall, about inches, boxes wall, boxes wall where, existing circuits

Match White Paint On A Ceiling

Ceiling whites can be matched.

Ceilings are prone to various kinds of damage. Water seepage, cracking, staining or peeling all can make your white ceiling look rather shabby. If you have repaired your ceiling and need to touch up the paint, or if you want to repaint a section of it for another reason, you need to match the existing ceiling color. This isn't a problem if you have the original paint can -- but if not, you still can find the right color. Most paint manufacturers produce similar shades of white paint, so you should be able to match yours with ease.

Instructions

1. Collect a variety of white paint swatches from a paint or home improvement store. Don't worry about the brand. Choose swatches that you think will best match your ceiling.

2. Use the step stool or ladder to place the swatches against the ceiling. Do this when the room is bright. Use swatch samples for pre-mixed colors (rather than custom) first as they are the most likely to have been used on the ceiling.

3. Mark the swatches that look very close to the existing ceiling paint. Most likely there will be a match -- but if you have more than one, mark all possible matches.

4. Obtain samples from the paint store for your match or matches.

5. Use a paintbrush to paint a square from each sample on the ceiling. Wash the paintbrush between samples or use different ones for each so you don't mix the whites. Wait for the paint to dry. Paint darkens slightly as it dries.

6. Examine your sample (or samples) to verify your match.

7. Check the finish on your ceiling. Most ceilings are painted with a flat, matte. In areas where water or steam might touch the ceiling, like a kitchen or bathroom, the finish may be semi-gloss. Eggshell and enamel finishes are less frequent. If you are unsure of the finish, pick up a swatch of finish samples at your paint store to check.

Tags: your ceiling, existing ceiling, from paint, paint store, swatches that, your match

Decorate A Room With A Wood Ceiling

Nothing is more rich and traditional than a wood ceiling. Whether planks or beams, a wood ceiling adds interest and architectural detail. When designing a room with a wood ceiling, it is vital to balance the ceiling with lighter colors so the room doesn't appear small. A wood or wood beam ceiling is a traditional design style, so choose furnishings and other accents that reflect traditional or eclectic decor. Mix wood tones, but keep it to two per room. Match large wood furniture such as tables and cabinetry to the ceiling, and add lighter color accent pieces.

Instructions

1. Paint the walls a light color. Wood ceilings can make a room appear smaller, and painting the surrounding walls a light color will balance the darkness and minimize this effect. This is especially important if the floors are also a dark color. The light color will also make the ceiling the focal point of the room.

2. Choose lighter flooring. If your ceiling is 20 feet high, a dark ceiling may not dwarf the room. But for rooms with ceilings under 10 feet, when choosing flooring, a lighter color floor will balance the darkness of the ceiling. The floor can be darker than the wall color and still make the room appear its size and highlight the ceiling as the focal point. If you are not changing the flooring and it is dark, put a light colored rug down for color balance.

3. Balance the windows with drapery in a dark color. Since the walls and flooring are light in color balancing the ceiling, hang drapery in a mid to dark tone to bring out the color of the wood.

4. Position furniture in the room in different tones. Use large pieces, such as the bed in a bedroom or the sofa and loveseat in the living room in darker colors, and accent pieces in lighter upholstery. Bring in an accent color, and repeat that color at least three times around the room. If you want a red accent chair, add red pillows on the couch and an art piece on the wall with red in it. Also add red accessories on tables and built-in shelving.

Tags: light color, accent pieces, balance darkness, ceiling focal, ceiling focal point, color will, dark color

Choose Bathroom Ceiling Lightbulbs

Ceiling lights help set the mood in your bathroom.

The right lighting may transform your bathroom into a relaxing oasis, while the wrong lighting may leave you struggling to perform basic grooming needs. To effectively light your bathroom for both general ambiance and focused tasks, combine layers of light from multiple fixtures and sources. Start at the top, with bathroom ceiling lightbulbs that brighten the room, mimic the look of natural sunlight, and provide overall ambient lighting.

Match Bulbs to Fixtures

Not all bulbs are designed to fit every fixture. Before buying bulbs for your bathroom ceiling, check existing fixtures to determine the maximum rated wattage, then choose bulbs within the wattage range. If you have hanging lights, pendants or ceiling fans in your bathroom, check for bulbs specifically designed for these fixtures. For dimmable fixtures, stick to bulbs specifically designed for dimming. If you've purchased dimmable bulbs and you hear an annoying buzzing from your fixtures, look for bulbs with a lower wattage to eliminate buzzing, suggests This Old House.

Choose Colors Wisely

This Old House recommends crisp white lighting in the bathroom because of its ability to accurately render skin tones. While halogen bulbs are best for this function, incandescent, compact fluorescent and other bulbs also can achieve the desired color range. To compare colors, check the packaging on your lightbulb for Kelvin ratings, which measure color. Low Kelvins generally result in yellow lighting, while high Kelvins in the 5,500 to 6,000 range are associated with blue light. For crisp, white light, stick to bulbs with a 3,500 to 4,100 Kelvin rating. In addition to Kelvins, check the Color Rendering Index to see how well the light renders color. The higher the CRI, the more likely the bulb accurately renders colors. Pegasus Lighting suggests going with a CRI of 85 or greater in the bathroom for best results.

Understand Watts and Lumens

Buyers accustomed to buying bulbs based on wattage may find themselves confused with new CFL and LED bulbs, which are rated in lumens rather than watts. A 450-lumen bulb is roughly equivalent to a 40-watt bulb, while 800 lumens is similar to 60 watts, according to Consumer Reports. A bulb rated at 1,100 lumens is similar to a 75-watt bulb, while 1,600 lumens is equivalent to 100 watts. When choosing floodlight bulbs, multiply watts by 10 to find the approximate number of lumens required.

Consider Lifespan

Choosing bulbs with a long lifespan can reduce maintenance and cut costs over time. Halogen bulbs last from 750 to 1,250 hours, while high-end halogen units can last 2,000 to 2,500 hours, according to The Family Handyman. Incandescent bulbs burn out after around 1,200 hours, while CFLs endure for up to 10,000 hours, according to Eartheasy. Light-emitting diodes offer the longest lifespan of any standard lightbulb, and can keep your bathroom bright for up to 50,000 hours.

Weigh Energy Consumption

The familiar incandescent lightbulb generates much more heat than light, making it inefficient. In fact, it takes about 3,000 kilowatt hours of electricity to light a room using incandescent bulbs for 50,000 hours, according to Eartheasy. While halogen bulbs are slightly more efficient, they generate even more heat than incandescent bulbs, making them a poor choice if you're concerned about efficiency and costs. CFLs offer improved efficiency, and require about 700 kWh per 50,000 hours of operation. For the ultimate in efficiency for your bathroom ceiling fixtures, consider LEDs, which consume just 300 to 500 kWh per 50,000 hours of operation.

Tags: your bathroom, bathroom ceiling, bulbs with, hours according, according Eartheasy, bulb while

Raised Ceiling Panel Installation

Raised ceiling panels can add depth, dimension and visual interest to a room. The type of material that the panels are made of determines how they should be installed over your existing ceiling. Tin and wood tiles need to be nailed up over furring strips, while foam ceiling tiles can be installed with adhesive, even if the existing ceiling has a popcorn finish.

Instructions

1. Find the exact center of the room. Use a measuring tape to determine the length and width of the ceiling. In the exact center of the room, make a mark with a pencil.

2. Snap a chalk line through the center mark horizontally and vertically. Have a friend hold the chalk line at one of the room. Go to the opposite end and snap the line to create your mark. Repeat going the other direction.

3. Find the ceiling joists with a stud finder. Install a line of furring strips if necessary -- one for every 12 inches, across the ceiling. Nail them into place into the studs with a nail gun.

4. Install the first tiles in the center section of the ceiling. Use the grid lines to know where to put the edges of the tiles. For foam, apply adhesive in a zigzag pattern over the back of the tiles. Press them into place. For wood or tin, nail the tiles into the furring strips with a nail gun.

5. Continue out towards the edges of the ceiling. Keep installing the tiles until you are left with a border around the room. In most cases, this last row on all sides will need to be trimmed to fit. Measure the space left and make the cut marks on the back of your tiles. Trim them to fit using either a utility knife, metal nippers or a circular saw.

Tags: furring strips, center room, chalk line, exact center, exact center room, existing ceiling, into place

Pick The Perfect Bathing Suit Color

Choose bathing suit colors that flatter your skin tone.

When you reach for a new bathing suit, make sure you are reaching for the perfect color for your skin tone. Bathing suits come in a vast selection of colors and patterns in order to give women a plethora of choices. Knowing what colors complement your skin tone before you begin your shopping expedition cuts down on wasted time. Once you choose your suit, strut your new look on the beach for everyone to admire.

Instructions

1. Know the shade of your skin tone prior to shopping. Store and dressing room lighting can be deceiving, especially if the lights are fluorescent. Fluorescent lights can make you appear paler. If you plan to wear self-tanner throughout the summer, apply the tanner before shopping.

2. Browse the swimsuit racks that contain predominantly black and white colors if your skin tone is pale or ivory with a neutral or bluish undertone. Other colors that work well for pale and ivory skin tones are watermelon and silver. Avoid colors that will wash you out such as beige, bright orange and gold.

3. Move away from black if your skin tone is pale with pink undertones because black can wash you out and make you appear ghostly. Stick to complementary colors which include cinnamon, silver, baby blue, pale pink and ivory.

4. Choose bright colors for a freckled peach skin tone. This includes most redheads. Lime or apple green, mocha, cinnamon or peach are flattering options. Avoid dark colors because they can give the illusion of paler skin.

5. Pick bold colors if your skin tone is medium tan to dark. Bold colors include jewel tones such as turquoise, emerald green, red, purple and deep yellow. Stay away from earth tones and pastels unless they are used minimally.

6. Choose earthy shades if your skin tone is bronze or light brown. Earth tones complement sun-kissed skin better than olive-based skin. These shades include caramel, beige, rust, gold, brown and camel.

Tags: skin tone, your skin, your skin tone, colors that, away from

Design A Room With A Big Fireplace

A large fireplace adds a grand sense of drama, warmth and materiality to a space. Traditionally, large fireplaces were the center of home life, located in a main living space, kitchen or both. Whether you are designing a living room, bedroom, dining area or a double-sided fireplace in two rooms, there are important design considerations so as to make the most of this impressive feature.

Instructions

1. To increase the visual importance of a fireplace in a room, avoid placing windows or doors in a wall alongside a fireplace. Traditionally, fireplaces were located on exterior walls, and the fireplace surround and chimney were expressed as part of the exterior structure of the building.

2. Size the dimensions of the room to be proportional to the size of the fireplace. A large fireplace is typically located centered on a wall no shorter than 12 feet in length. Room ceiling height should be at least 8 feet high, preferably taller. The taller the room is, the more impressive the fireplace will appear.

3. Select the materials for the fireplace surround to complement the design of the room and the style of the house. Traditional materials for large fireplaces include stone, slate, brick or concrete. Consider extending the whole fireplace surround to the ceiling for a dramatic visual effect.

Creative Uses For Tin Ceiling Tiles

Punched tin ceiling tiles can be trimmed to shape with a sharp pair of tin snips and used to make pinwheels, wastebaskets, tissue box covers and fireplace screens, among other things. Pinwheels can be used to shoo birds and small animals from your garden. Store-bought fireplace screens can be expensive, but they are not always effective at keeping ash and sparks from blowing off the hearth and onto your rugs or floors.

Pinwheels

Pinwheels are an easy project for beginners. You will need a measuring tape and black marker to make a template for each item. Sharpen your tin snips before you begin, so that all your cuts will be smooth and uniform. Don heavy leather gloves and wrap-around eye protection too. If your ceiling tiles have been painted white, they may be contaminated with lead. Lead-paint test kids are available at home improvement stores. Use the procedures outlined by the Consumer Product Safety Commission to remove or encapsulate surfaces that have been painted with lead-based paint.

Mark a diagonal line from each corner to within 1 inch of the center point of your tin ceiling tile. Use a punch to make a small, round hole in the corner to the right of each cutting line, plus one in the center of the tile. Beginning at the top left corner, fold the corners to the center point and line up all of the holes. Put a fender washer with a ¼-inch diameter hole on a ¼-inch L-shaped threaded rod. Push the shaft through all five holes. Add a second fender washer and cap with an acorn nut. If you have trouble enlarging the image that accompanies this step, try the pinwheel template at PinwheelsforPeace.com

Wastebaskets

It takes three tin ceiling tiles to make two wastebaskets. Cut one ceiling tile in half for your bottoms. Grind off any burrs to make a smooth surface. Bend a second ceiling tile to fit around the base, with about 1/2-inch overlap. Use a bending brake to fold over 1/4 inch down the right and left sides of the wastebasket top. Bend the right side up, to the left, and the left side down, and to the right. This will allow you to link the left and right sides together. Crimp the two ends together. Use a propane torch and 95/5 lead-free solder to attach each bottom to the wastebasket tops.

Tissue Box Cover

One ceiling tile will make four tissue box covers. Cut along the solid lines on the tissue box cover template to make the tissue opening and the side tabs. Fold along the dotted lines. Crimp along each end of the tissue box with a pair of pliers. Use lead-free solder along the seams to ensure that your tissue box cover stays together.

The tissue box template by Lara Cameron, given in the Resources, was created as a sewing project, but the templates given can be used on your tin ceiling tiles if you have any trouble with the template that accompanies this step.

Fireplace Screen

Use a pop rivet gun to attach piano hinges to the right and left sides of one of your tin ceiling tiles. Attach a second tin ceiling tile to the right side, using a pop rivet at the top and bottom corners of the tile. Attach a third tin ceiling tile to the left side, at the top and bottom corners. If desired, for added strength, use 1/4-inch long, 1/4-inch diameter machine screws and hex nuts to attach the tiles at the center point and a point between each corner and the center of the piano hinge. Store flat, and open the sides to a 45-degree angle in front of the fireplace. The punched pattern in the tin allows firelight to shine through, making a relaxing dance.

Tags: ceiling tile, your ceiling, ceiling tiles, center point, your ceiling tiles

Clean A Copper Roof Without Removing The Finish

Copper develops a protective light green patina over time when it is left outside. This is why the Statue of Liberty, for example, is green rather than bright copper in color. The patina is extremely important for outdoor copper items like statuary and roofs, but it does not necessarily protect from the general dirt and grime that builds up on any roof over time. When you clean your copper roof, use natural ingredients that will not destroy the patina as they remove the buildup and gunk.

Instructions

1. Mix your cleaning solution. Use three parts lemon juice to one part coarse salt. This means if you use six cups of lemon juice, you will need two cups of coarse salt. As you may imagine, if your entire roof is copper, then you will need more than one batch.

2. Sweep off your roof. Get rid of as many leaves and as much loose debris as possible before you start scrubbing. Otherwise you will just create a muddy, lemony mess.

3. Scrub your roof with the lemon cleaning solution. The salt will remove grime but will leave the patina intact. The lemon juice will brighten up the surface of your roof. You can scrub in an upright position using the push broom and dipping it in the mixture periodically, or you can tackle tough dirt and buildup with the scrub brush.

4. Rinse off the roof. As you clean, rinse off the roof periodically so that you can see how you are progressing. Use the garden hose to rinse the salt and loosened dirt away. Work your way from one end of the roof to the other (right to left) so that you are not standing on the wet part of your roof at any time.

5. Let the roof dry. The copper should dry quickly on a clear day. Allow about 30 minutes for water to evaporate.

6. Treat your newly clean roof with a polyurethane spray. This will keep your roof from getting dull and dirty again quite so quickly and it will protect the patina from weathering.

Tags: your roof, lemon juice, cleaning solution, coarse salt, juice will, lemon juice will, over time

Tuscany Kitchen Decorating Ideas

Warm colors enhance Tuscan-inspired kitchens.

Known for its rich landscapes, Tuscany comprises colors and moods many want to emulate in their kitchens. Tuscan d cor is inviting, relaxing and warm. Achieving this look in your kitchen may seem difficult, but it isn't once you know what elements to use to enhance the mood in your kitchen. Begin with a favorite object or piece of artwork from which you can pull colors. Once you have a color scheme, you can begin working with other elements for a complete look.

Use Warm Colors

The easiest way to make your kitchen feel warm is through color. Warm colors make your guests feel comfortable and welcome. Lush green, red and brown are favorites for this style d cor. The Tuscan countryside and Italian vineyards provide inspiration for colors to incorporate into your kitchen, such as purple and gray. Common wall colors include gold and yellow, which add warmth to a kitchen almost instantly. Add splashes of other colors, such as blue, salmon, and cream, in your accessories.

Use Lighting to your Advantage

Light fixtures are important in creating a certain mood in your kitchen. Instead of a simple overhead light, go for lights and lamps that pull elements of the kitchen together. Many homes with Tuscan-inspired kitchens spotlight antique lighting to enhance the mood. Antiques lamps come in a wide variety, ranging from brushed bronze to iron. Hang a chandelier above the dining table for a dramatic look. Place smaller lamps in darker areas of rooms to brighten and warm up corners.

Use Texture

Rich texture is a distinguishable feature of Tuscan kitchens. Kitchens throughout Tuscany sport stucco walls, faux-finished walls and walls of stone to enhance the mood of this style. Faux finishes are especially nice because you can incorporate colors from your d cor to the walls. Kitchens look welcoming with stucco or crackle walls, or one feature faux-finished wall. Bricks and stones also add a rustic element to your kitchen. Also bring texture into your kitchen through woven fabrics: Look for rugs or cushions with elaborate fabrics, and roll out wool or jute rugs for texture on the floors.

Tags: your kitchen, enhance mood, into your, into your kitchen, make your, mood your, mood your kitchen

Install Quarter Round Floor Molding

Install Quarter Round Floor Molding

Quarter-round floor molding derives its name from its pie-shape, which measures one-quarter of a circle. Quarter-round is installed on the edge of your floor, directly against the base boards, and is used to both hide imperfections in the edges of the floor or baseboard and to provide a finished look to your room. Often installed around tile and hardwood floors, installing quarter-round floor molding is the final step in the installation of your new hardwood or tile floors.

Instructions

1. Measure the length of each wall requiring quarter round molding at the base to determine the amount of quarter round needed. Quarter round should not be installed around door jambs or through doorways.

2. Paint the quarter round prior to cutting and installing, if you are planning to paint the molding. Painting in advance saves you time and prevents accidental spills on the floor.

3. Measure the length of the first wall, then measure and mark your first piece of quarter round. Determine the types of miter cuts required, either inside or outside. An inside cut is used to connect two pieces of quarter round when turning an outside corner; an outside cut is used to connect two pieces of quarter round on an inside corner.

4. Set your miter saw to the correct 45-degree setting, either on the left or the right of the saw. To rotate the miter saw, pull the handle on the bottom out and then rotate the saw, using the gauge on the base of the saw to determine the set degree. The left 45-degree setting is for left-outside cuts or right-inside cuts. The right 45-degree setting is for right-outside cuts or left-inside cuts.

5. Place the quarter round on the saw table and firmly press it against the saw fence and table with your fingers. Ensure that your fingers are safely away from the blade and then make your cuts.

6. Place the quarter round in place and then secure it to the baseboard using the nail gun and air compressor. Nail at a downward angle directly into the side of the quarter round and through the baseboard.

7. Repeat steps 2 through 5 until the quarter round is installed.

8. Fill the nail holes with putty and allow the putty to dry. After the putty has dried, lightly sand the surface to smooth.

9. Apply a bead of caulk to the top and bottom of the quarter round to create a water-tight seal. Apply caulk to any gaps where two pieces of quarter round meet. Apply a small dab of touch-up paint to the puttied areas if necessary.

Tags: quarter round, 45-degree setting, pieces quarter, pieces quarter round, base determine, connect pieces

Whitewash Paneling

Whitewashing paneling is a simple job that will add character to your paneled walls. While traditional whitewash is a lime-based application, you can get the same look with regular white paint diluted with water. Follow these steps to whitewash paneling and give your room a fresh and clean appearance.

Instructions

Whitewash Paneling

1. Prepare your paneling. Whether your paneled walls are painted or have a natural finish, you will need to sand them thoroughly with a 150-grit sandpaper in order to make the panels ready for the whitewash. Be sure to sand with the grain to avoid creating permanent scratches in the surface.

2. Once you have sanded your walls, be sure to vacuum the walls and floor. Use a long vacuum attachment and clean the ceiling as well, since any dust you leave in the room will find its way into the paint and mar the finish. As a final step, use a damp mop to go over all surfaces.

3. Tape off windows, doors and woodwork. Also lay drop cloths over the entire floor. Whitewashing can be a messy job, so cover the area thoroughly to avoid needless damage.

4. Create the whitewash mixture. For a traditional whitewash look, combine a pint of mineral water with a gallon of white, oil-based, semigloss enamel paint. Be sure to test it on a scrap piece of paneling or other wood first. For a darker look, add more paint; if you prefer the walls to look more "washed out," use somewhat more water. Fill a traditional paint tray with the mixture.

5. Apply the whitewash to your paneling using a standard paint roller. Be sure to spread the wash on evenly. Because this mixture is very thin, it will tend to spray if you roll too quickly. Make slow even strokes with the roller. Continue covering approximately six feet of wall before stopping.

6. Wait a couple minutes for the whitewash to start drying, then wipe the walls down with a cotton rag. Be sure to wipe with the grain. As this step removes some of the paint, a clean whitewash appearance will begin to take shape. You may want to experiment a bit. For a darker wash, wait a few minutes longer before wiping.

7. Continue this process around the entire room. Once you have finished, allow 24 hours before hanging anything on your freshly whitewashed paneling.

Tags: look more, Once have, paneled walls, traditional whitewash, Whitewash Paneling

Instructions For A Projector Screen Installation

Instructions for a Projector Screen Installation

Home theaters featuring projector screens have become a popular fixture in homes throughout America. Installing a projection screen is pretty simple, but if you have one of the projection screens that rolls up when not in use and must be pulled down before watching, there is added risk for damage to the projection screen. Fortunately, technology permits the installation of a more permanent projection screen that eliminates this risk and the installation is a task you can do yourself.

Projector Kits

Purchasing a projection screen kit is an easy installation method. This kit comes with paint-like material in three individual bottles. You'll need to purchase a paint roller, a paint pan, and a drop cloth to complete the installation once you have the kit in hand. First, set up your projector wherever you would like it to go. Turn on the projector and project the picture onto a wall where you would like the screen to be. With the picture still projected onto the wall, mark out the picture on the wall making sure to keep the edges completely flat and even. Once the edges are marked out on the wall evenly, turn off the projector. Place painters tape around the measured edges of the wall. Once the area for the screen has been taped off, begin to paint the projection screen onto the wall following the projection screen kit manufacturer's instructions. Typically this means prepping the wall for the screen to ensure the surface is flat with no blemishes, applying two coats of primer and then applying a specialized mixture that dries to create the correct projection screen surface.

Once the screen has been painted and is dry, you can remove the tape and begin the second part of the process, which involves building a frame around the outside of the projection screen. The frame should be painted black to absorb the light and create the desired end affect. The frame can be as fancy or as plain as you want it to be. Often molding sold at home improvement stores painted in flat black works to frame out the projection screen. When finished, the projection screen should look like a framed picture on the wall when the projector is on.

Standard Paint

Generally projector installation kits, like the kit described, can be a little on the pricey side. However, a kit is not essential to create the projector screen. In fact, you can get nearly the same affect with regular paint, some paint rollers, masking tape or painter's tape and a paint pan from the hardware store. Follow the same instructions for setting up your projector and marking the wall for the screen and then choose the correct color for the screen. Surprisingly you should avoid using white. Although white seems like the optimal choice, a white screen will actually wash out darker colors and distort the projection. Instead, use a light shade of gray in a semi gloss or satin finish.

Avoid using a gloss finish because this creates a glare on the picture. Be sure to use a good quality roller to apply the paint for the screen and avoid painting unevenly. Once the paint is dry, you can remove the tape and build the black frame around the projection screen the same as you would with the first method.

Care And Maintenance

These types of projection screen require very little care of maintenance. They are unable to receive rips and tears like the retractable projection screens that many people purchase. The most care they require is an occasional dusting every now and then to keep the picture sharp and clear. The only other maintenance that is required is repainting the screen if the wall where the screen is painted becomes scratched or damaged in some way.

Tags: projection screen, onto wall, frame around, Instructions Projector, Instructions Projector Screen, picture wall, projection screens

Design A Kitchen For Baking

Design a baker's kitchen with areas for preparation, cooling, assembly and storage.

A baker's kitchen has specific needs for work space, storage and food preparation. Locations for spices, flour, sugar and other ingredients need to be easily accessible during the preparation process. Large counter areas are important for cooling racks and cake assembly, and refrigerators need to have ample space for items that need to be kept cool. Designing a kitchen for those who love to bake means providing enough specialized work areas for each step of the baking process.

Instructions

1. Design your kitchen in a triangle, with the refrigerator, sink and range at the points. Make sure that islands and other large items don't interrupt the flow within the work triangle.

2. Build in a pop-up mixer stand. This allows the mixer to be ready to use without taking up counter space.

3. Provide several drawers for small item storage. These should be easily accessible from the baking preparation area. Drawers should be large enough to hold cookie cutters, measuring cups and measuring spoons easily, but be small enough to keep items well organized.

4. Include large bins for staple items such as flours and sugars. These large bins need removable liners for cleaning and plenty of room at the top, for scooping and measuring without spillage.

5. Insert a tray divider in a low, roll-out shelf for baking sheets, baking stones, pizza pans, muffin tins and cookie cooling racks.

6. Install a pull down cookbook rack in a well-lit spot. This allows the baker to see the recipe, without placing it on the preparation surface, keeping the cookbook clean.

7. Plan a special drawer for various sizes of rolling pins and baking prep items, such as spatulas and rubber scrapers. This drawer needs to be wide and shallow. Prepare another shallow drawer next to the oven for oven mitts, pot holders and trivets.

8. Make counter tops a bit lower than standard, for ease of use in kneading doughs and decorating cakes.

9. Install marble inserts in counter tops for cookie rolling and bread making.

10. Use cabinet space above the counter top for casserole dishes, mixing bowls and pie plates. Having these heavier items at arm's length means less bending and stooping.

Tags: baker kitchen, cooling racks, counter tops, easily accessible, items such

Connect A Computer To A Ceilingmount Lcd Projector

Connect a Computer to a Ceiling-Mount LCD Projector

Lecture halls and classrooms provide a speaker or professor with an opportunity to speak to many people at a time about a specific subject. In many lecture halls, there is also a ceiling-mounted LCD projector and a screen to display things such as movies, video clips, and PowerPoint presentations. Many halls allow you to bring a computer to connect to the projector for this reason.

Instructions

1. Locate the VGA port for the ceiling-mounted projector. This is usually located in a conspicuous place, such as on a podium or a laptop stand. If there is no such port, you may need to connect the cable directly to the projector. Get help if the ceiling is too high for you to reach.

2. Connect the VGA port on the computer (located in the back of the device) to the VGA port using the VGA cable. Be sure that the cable is completely secure before proceeding to the next step.

3. Turn on the computer if it is not already on.

4. For laptops only: Switch your laptop to display on the screen using the function key. Refer to your manual for instructions on do this.

Tags: ceiling-mounted projector, Connect Computer

Rewire Antique Lamps

You can rewire your antique lamp to make it safe to use.

Antique lamps are beautiful additions to any home and can be passed from generation to generation. However the wiring of old lamps can often be a dangerous fire hazard because the plugs are not polarized and designed for today's electrical outlets. With a little work and ingenuity, you can rewire a lamp while preserving its historic look.

Instructions

1. Take the lamp apart. Unplug the lamp and remove the shade. Then look at the lamp to see where the lamp is put together. There will be several pieces that screw together from the base to the socket.

2. Remove the stem from the base of the lamp. This may be done in two ways. Unscrew the base of the lamp from the stem of the lamp or unbolt the stem from the base by unscrewing the bolt found underneath the base. Cut the plug off of the end of the cord and slide the base off of the end of the cord.

3. Separate the parts of the stem. These parts will unscrew from each other. The number of parts will depend on the length of the stem and the design of the lamp; necks and caps may also need to be unscrewed. There may also be a secondary pipe inside the stem that is used to feed the cord from the base to the socket. If this is the case, remove the pipe from inside the stem by sliding the pipe and the stem off of the end of the cord. Line up these pieces in the order they go back onto the lamp on a table.

4. Remove the wiring from the socket if you wish to reuse it. This may be the case if the socket is porcelain and can be seen from the outside of the lamp. You will want to unscrew the switch from the socket. This will allow you to pull the socket apart and expose the wires. If you do not need to save the socket, throw it away and replace it with a new socket when you rewire the lamp.

5. If you are reusing a porcelain socket that does not take the size of the modern light bulb, you will want to purchase a light socket adapter from your local hardware store. This will screw into the antique socket and will allow you to use energy efficiency light bulbs.

6. Take the cord set and prepare to feed it into the stem. Ensure the cord is long enough to go the length of the lamp as well as have extra length to reach the plug where you plan to use the lamp. If the lamp has the interior pipe inside the stem, then feed the cord into the pipe. Feed the cord through the separated stem pieces in the order they will be assembled on the lamp. If there is a pipe, push the pieces into place over the pipe. You may want to leave the parts separated to help with movement of the cord during assembly.

7. Connect the cord to the socket using the screw driver. You will see two screws on the socket. You will want to loosen the screws. Loop the exposed wire on the end of the cord and tighten the screws so that the wires are secure. You will place one exposed wire on each screw.

8. If the socket goes into an exterior cover, slide it into place and secure by screwing the switch into the light socket.

9. Reassemble the lamp. You will want to screw the lamp stem back together, and screw the stem to the socket so it is secure. Then screw the stem back into the base. Plug the lamp in, and test with a new light bulb.

Tags: from base, will want, inside stem, base lamp, base socket, exposed wire

Measure A Lamp Base For A Shade

Measure your lamp to select the perfect lamp shade.

Thanks to their portability, lamps are one of the easiest home lighting solutions. In addition to providing much-needed light for interior spaces, lamps also contribute to the overall feel of a room by complementing the interior design plan and color schemes. The lamp shade plays a particularly important role when it comes to a lamp's function and design. When selecting a lamp shade, it's important to take the height of the lamp base into account so that the shade does not overpower the lamp.

Instructions

1. Place one end of a measuring tape at the very bottom of the lamp base where it sits on the table.

2. Stretch the measuring tape up the lamp base until it reaches the bottom of the light socket, but do not measure the light socket. Take note of the measurement.

3. Select a shade with a diameter that is within 2 inches of the height of the lamp. For example, if a lamp base is 12 inches tall, a shade that is between 10 inches and 14 inches in diameter is appropriate. The diameter of the shade is the distance across the center of the bottom of the shade.

4. Measure the height of the lamp harp. The lamp harp is the metal attachment extending from the light socket; it has metal arms that go around the light bulb. Select a shade with a height that is within half an inch of the size of the lamp harp. For example, if the length of the harp is 7 inches, the height of the shade can be anywhere between 6 1/2 inches and 7 1/2 inches.

Tags: lamp base, height lamp, lamp harp, lamp shade, light socket

Retexture A Popcorn Ceiling

Popcorn ceilings have a unique texture that looks like there is popcorn affixed to the ceiling. If damage or age strikes and you need to retexture popcorn ceilings, plan to scrape away the existing popcorn ceiling and start over. It's virtually impossible to patch a popcorn ceiling because the color and the texture won't blend in properly. Popcorn ceiling retexturing is a messy project, so plan it for a weekend when you can move all of your furniture out of the room.

Instructions

1. Cover the walls and floor with tarps, dropcloths or plastic sheets, and secure the edges of the wall and floor coverings to the wall with masking tape. This helps protect your walls and floors from dust caused by removing the existing popcorn ceiling texture and from the texture you will apply later.

2. Scrape the existing popcorn texture from the ceiling. Using a large spackling knife is an easy way to tackle this project, although you can use anything with a thin, flat edge that is good for scraping. To avoid making a huge mess, have someone hold a trash bag under the area where you scrape so that the popcorn ceiling texture can fall into the trash bag instead of on your floor.

3. Fill any dents, holes or imperfections with spackling compound. The ceiling doesn't have to be perfect, but you do want it to look as smooth as possible so that your new popcorn ceiling texture applies evenly.

4. Apply one coat of primer to the ceiling. Let it dry for at least 4 hours.

5. Wear a paint suit, which will help you avoid getting popcorn ceiling texture all over your skin and hair. Put this on right before you start to mix the texture. A paint suit consists of a jumpsuit with long pants and long sleeves, a head sock, and safety glasses.

6. Add ceiling texture to a large bucket, and mix it according to the directions on the package. A paint mixer attachment on the end of a drill works great to mix the ceiling texture until it is the consistency of thick oatmeal.

7. Fill a hopper, which you can rent from your local home improvement store, with the ceiling texture, and turn it on.

8. Blow popcorn ceiling texture onto an old piece of cardboard first so that you can practice your aim and look at the way the texture blows out of the hopper before you apply it to your ceiling.

9. Spray a light layer of popcorn texture onto the ceiling, allow it to dry and then add another coat of texture if necessary. Spraying too much popcorn texture can cause it to drip off the ceiling, ruining the work that you did.

Tags: ceiling texture, popcorn ceiling texture, popcorn ceiling, existing popcorn, popcorn texture

Install Handhewn Beams

Without good beams, your house would fall down on your head. Beams are important parts of any structure because they support the roof. Often beams are covered by the ceiling but many people enjoy the aesthetics of exposed beams. Hand-hewn beams give an interior an especially rustic look. Hewing beams by hand takes time and work but if you have logs lying around then carving the beams yourself will be much cheaper than buying them. Once made, you can install them like any other beam.

Instructions

1. Prepare your log. Lay the log on top of the 4-by-4's to get it off the ground.

2. Mark the beam dimensions. Use the level and pencil to mark the dimensions for the beam on each end of the log. Make the dimensions in a square or rectangle.

3. Score the ax. Use the felling ax to chip away all the bark on the log. Turn the log to get all sides of it.

4. Hew the log. Use the felling ax to hew the wood into the shape of the beam. Start at one end and work all the way down one side at a time.

5. Install temporary supports. Measure the height from your floor to the ceiling then subtract the width of the beam from that. Cut three 2-by-4's to that length. Use the drill to screw the 2-by-4's against the floor joists where you are going to install the beam, to form temporary cradles for the beam to rest on.

6. Install the beam. With the help of a partner, lift the beam up to rest it on the cradle. Nail the beam into the blocking on your wall. Bolt the beam into the wall studs.Remove the 2-by-4's.

7. Treat the beams. Two to four weeks after installing the beams, paint them with an indoor wood stain to protect them from termites.

Tags: beam into, beam rest

Wire A Ceiling Light

Wiring a ceiling light requires attention to detail and security. Ceiling lights are difficult to install because they are suspended. When you add in the danger of electrical injury, they become even more difficult. Failure to wire a ceiling light correctly will result in damage to the light, breaker or wiring. That being said, it is a doable project for the average homeowner; follow the instructions carefully, and you'll successfully complete the project.

Instructions

1. Turn off all power to the main wiring supply line. The main wiring that will feed the ceiling light should be 12-2 or 14-2 insulated interior wiring. You should have 2 to 3 inches protruding from the ceiling box, and the wiring should have all of its skin attached.

Install Barrington Outdoor Lighting

Entry lights offer safety and a design element to a home.

Barrington outdoor lights are manufactured by ELK Lighting, Inc., and are catalogued as the Barrington Gate Collection. These lights are inspired by the English Manor designed homes found in the Southern United States. The lights are made of a hazelnut bronze finished cast aluminum and custom made water glass. Each piece is slightly different, putting the lights into the high-quality custom designed category. The collection consists of wall, sconce, post, hanging, and flush mount lights. This article describes install a Barrington Gate sconce light that is replacing an existing outdoor wall sconce.

Instructions

Instructions

1. Turn off electricity to the light. Unscrew the base plate of the old light using a screwdriver. Remove the wire nuts and disconnect the wires. Set the old light aside.

2. Strip an inch of insulation off of the new wires to prepare them to be attached to the house wires. Inspect the house wires for damage or wear. If you are unsure about the condition of the exposed wires, cut them back and strip off a new section as was done with the wires on the light.

3. Twist the wires together, matching colors. Twist the wire nuts onto the connected wires. Push the wires into the junction box.

4. Mount the light onto the wall. Screw in tightly, but do not over tighten it. Over tightening can lead to damage of the base plate or the wall. Turn the circuit breaker back on and test the light. If it is working, caulk around the outside of the base plate to seal it from moisture.

Tags: base plate, Barrington Gate, house wires, wall sconce, wire nuts