Mouse droppings collected on top of ceiling gypsum wall board -- a building material panel that is commonly called drywall or "sheet rock," after a well-known trademarked brand of wall board -- can cause an unpleasant odor in a home if left unchecked. The feces creates unsanitary conditions in an attic and needs to be addressed. The attic of a home where mice build nests and move around without fear of humans can become a breeding ground for disease and can cause damage to a structure. You can set traps to catch and remove mice from the attic, but you'll still need to remove the droppings.
Instructions
1. Put on a pair of disposable coveralls, clear safety glasses, rubber gloves and a dust mask.
2. Climb into the attic through the entry hole or stairwell.
3. Stuff all insulation into garbage bags. Walk only on the ceiling joists. Avoid walking on the drywall ceiling, because you can fall through it. Some insulation rolls up and other insulation (blown-in) is in pieces that you'll have to scoop up with a shovel.
4. Remove the garbage bags from the attic.
5. Bring a shop vacuum into the attic. Plug it in to a power outlet.
6. Vacuum every inch of the drywall ceiling. Vacuum along the edges where the drywall is attached to the . Vacuum wherever you can visibly see mouse droppings until the drywall ceiling is free of droppings.
Tags: drywall ceiling, ceiling joists, from attic, garbage bags, into attic
Tackle a ceiling painting job with careful planning.
Applying paint to the ceiling can be a challenge, making the paint look neat and attractive as you apply it over your head. As you prepare the ceiling and get ready to apply the paint, take a moment to decide which direction to paint a ceiling. With careful attention to details, the paint will go on smoothly to cover the ceiling flawlessly.
Instructions
1. Plan the paint application process before you begin. Choose a corner of the ceiling, perhaps a tight or complicated corner, to begin cutting in the paint. You will work out and across from this corner.
2. Cover the floor completely with drop cloths to eliminate the possibility of paint dropping on the floor. Move as much furniture out of the room as possible to give you room to maneuver throughout the room to apply paint.
3. Remove light fixtures or cover them with painter's tape.
4. Pour the paint into the paint tray.
5. Stand on the stepladder and load the angled trim brush with paint. Apply paint in the corner to cover the outer 2-inch perimeter of the ceiling. To ensure that you keep a wet edge of paint as you cut in and apply paint with the roller, work in small three-foot sections. Cut in a three-foot section with the trim brush and then switch to the paint roller.
6. Load the paint roller and apply paint in the chosen direction, applying the paint in an up and down "W" motion. Fill in the ceiling area with the roller, rolling over the wet edge of the cut-in section.
7. Continue cutting in paint and filling in the center area with the roller, working in the same direction, until you paint the entire ceiling.
8. Allow the ceiling to dry completely before applying a second coat of paint.
9. Choose an opposite diagonal corner to begin applying the second coat in a perpendicular layer. Begin the cutting in process in the corner, working in three-foot sections. Fill in the paint with the roller, using the same "W" motions. Continue applying the entire second coat of ceiling paint and then allow it to dry.
Tags: apply paint, with roller, second coat, applying second, applying second coat, area with, area with roller
Wall drapings can be a stylish way to create dividers or partitions in a room. However, you'll need a frame that supports the draping in order to set one up. An inexpensive frame for a wall draping can be made out of PVC pipe. The convenient thing about making a freestanding frame out of PVC pipe is that you can make it as large or as small as you wish.
Instructions
1. Purchase lengths of PVC pipe as tall as you would like the frame to be. If the length isn't exact, you can cut lengths of PVC pipe down to size with a saw.
2. Stand one length of PVC pipe up and place an elbow joint on the end.
3. Insert a length of PVC pipe into the remaining end of the elbow joint so that the two pieces meet at a 45-degree angle. This will be the top of the frame, so make sure it is as long as your desired width for the frame.
4. Connect another elbow joint to the remaining end of the PVC pipe. You should now have an upside down "U" figure.
5. Place elbow joints on the bottom ends of the PVC pipe. Adjust the elbow joints so that they are facing out from the figure.
6. Insert lengths of PVC pipe into the elbow joints to form the support base of the structure. These lengths of pipe should be at least half as long as the vertical pieces to ensure that the structure is properly supported.
7. Stand the frame up and place end caps over the remaining ends of the PVC pipes on the ground.
Texturing a ceiling adds depth and interest to ceiling while concealing an imperfect surface. Texture also helps to seamless bring together new construction with existing ceilings. There are many techniques to choose from that will each leave a different design on your ceiling ranging from random patterns to sleek designs. A strong and durable base is a requirement for adding texture with drywall compound.
Instructions
1. Remove furniture, window coverings and unnecessary items from the room. Lay down large tarps to protect floors and items that you are unable to remove. Tape thin sheets of plastic to the walls to protect them from drywall compound while adding texture.
2. Repair holes and cracks. Apply drywall a flexible putty knife. Remove and replace badly damaged sections of the ceiling. Allow areas of previous water damage to remain open after removing the section so it can dry out.
3. Mix water to thin down the consistency to that of cake batter or slightly thicker depending on the design you are creating. Equip a power drill with a ribbon mixer bit to mix drywall compound when thinning.
4. Dip a paintbrush into the drywall compound and flick it at the ceiling to create a popcorn effect. Apply a coat of compound with a trowel and drag the notched side of the trowel through it in a circular motion. Pour the compound into a roller tray, roll a medium-nap paint roller through the compound and roll it onto the ceiling. Apply a layer of joint compound to the ceiling with a trowel. Dab at the wet finish with a paintbrush or swirl the paintbrush around on the surface.
5. Allow the joint compound to dry completely, usually overnight before applying primer and paint.
Texturing a ceiling by hand is tiring work, but yields dramatic results. Your ceilings can make as bold a statement as your walls or furnishings. Here are a few steps to enhance any room and create
a textured ceiling.
Instructions
1. Purchase a large bucket of premixed drywall joint compound from your local home improvement center, lumberyard or hardware store. Also buy a wide-bladed taping knife or straight-edged trowel (8 to 12 inches wide) for spreading a thin coat of compound on the ceiling. (Spreading directly with your hand is perfectly acceptable if you're going for a rough look.)
2. Clear as much furniture as you can from the room to be textured. Cover any remaining furniture and the floor with drop cloths.
3. Strip any wallpaper from the ceiling rather than texturing over it. The high moisture content of the drywall compound can cause the paper to "let go" - and leave you with a time-consuming mess. The drywall compound should adhere to most painted ceilings without a problem.
4. Start by edging the entire ceiling with a thin layer of the compound. Apply a layer of about 1/8 of an inch (unless you want a very rough texture - in which case you will want to go thicker). It doesn't have to be exact - after all, a varied texture is what you're looking for.
5. Achieve the texture you want in wide assortment of methods: use old paintbrushes, wallpaper brushes or sponges to stroke or swirl on the wet surface; use your fingers to make all kind of designs; use stencils to apply a pre-created design.
6. Alternate between applying the compound and texturing it until the entire surface is covered.
Adding bright, warm colors to blue tile in a bathroom will wake up the space.
If blue is the main color in your bathroom, there are several decorative accents you can add to the space to make the area upbeat and playful, sophisticated and modern. Metallic shades, as well as other colors in the cool family, make a blue bathroom complete; monochromatic effects will foster the serene nature of blue as well.
Add Blue Patterns
Add more shades of blue in the form of patterns throughout the bathroom, which will create a monochromatic look with several textures that will give the bathroom a sense of calm while still making the area visually pleasing. For instance, paint some of the light blue tiles on the walls and bathroom area a darker shade of royal or navy blue in a random pattern, or create a tile border with the darker color. You can adorn the bathroom counter with blue baskets filled with blue and white gingham towels, or decorate the accent wall with periwinkle and medium blue stripes.
Use Warm Colors
Combine warm colors like orange or yellow with the blue shades in the bathroom to make the space especially warm and welcoming. Blue, orange and yellow are also ideal colors for a child's bathroom, particularly if you're going for a goldfish or rubber duckie theme, such as a blue shower curtain with orange goldfish or blue area rugs featuring yellow rubber duckies. Accent the blue bathroom counters with yellow soap dishes and toothbrush holders, or add a pop of color to the blue tiled floors with yellow plush area rugs or toilet covers.
Use Cool Colors
Mix blue with other colors in the blue family to give the bathroom a sense of bright relaxation. For instance, add a light green shower curtain to the bathtub with blue curtain hooks to accent blue walls, and hang plush green hand towels on the wall to further emphasize the color combination. Or add dark purple stripes or paneling to the powder blue walls, and add purple flower arrangements to the counter to add richness to the color scheme. You can also combine intense shades of green and purple with medium or cobalt blues in the form of candle or linen arrangements on wall shelves to make the bathroom especially attractive without overwhelming it with color.
Include Metallics
Shades of silver, platinum, and bronze work well in a blue bathroom and will give the area a sense of elegance. For instance, in the master bathroom, frame pictures of blue or purple flowers like irises or hydrangeas in platinum-colored frames to hang on a medium blue accent wall. Accent blue marble countertops with silver vases or toothbrush holders to include metallics in the color scheme without taking any attention away from the marble detail. Brown and blue look good together as well, so adding a wide bronze stripe to a robin's egg-colored accent wall is aesthetically pleasing. Feature more bronze accents like large sconces on the side wall or a tiny bronze lamp on the counter to bring the two colors together.
Tags: with blue, accent wall, blue bathroom, Accent blue, area rugs,
Decorating a living room so that you will love it does not require years of decorating experience or a degree from a design school. All it takes is paying attention to your own likes and dislikes and when necessary those of your family.
There are many decorating styles, from tradition to modern to southwestern, but everyone is far from the same and decorating your living room should be done to create a look that is uniquely you! You may want to add elements from styles you like but don't feel compelled to stick with one style alone unless you love it.
Here are a few tips to decorate your living room so that you will love it!
Instructions
1. DISCOVER WHAT YOU LOVE
Before you buy a thing, the first thing you want to do is to figure out what you like. One of the very best ways to do this is by gathering a pile of magazines and a pair of scissors. As you look through the magazine, cut out any picture that gives you a good feeling. The magazines do not have to be decorating magazines although it will be helpful to have some.
Don't put too much thought into what you select. Do this exercise quickly and impulsively. Cut only pictures that make you feel good. Cut as many pictures as you want until you have a reasonably sized stack.
2. PASTE YOUR PICTURE INTO A LARGE SKETCH BOOK
Using at least an 11 inch artists notebook, begin pasting your pictures onto a 2 page spread. Arrange them in anyway you like. When you are done, close the notebook and walk away. Let it sit for a day or two, or a week.
3. LOOK AT YOUR DECORATING NOTEBOOK
After some time has passed go back to your notebook and look at it. In most cases you will see color trends and the pages will be totally you in both colors and textures. This is where you will begin the decorating process.
4. TAKE YOUR DECORATING NOTEBOOK WITH YOU WINDOW SHOPPING
Take your notebook and begin to window shop for fabrics, paint and furniture to decorate your living room. Use your notebook only as a guide. Add swatches and samples to another 2 page spread. If you find a piece of furniture you like, ask for a brochure or take a picture of it and include it in your notebook. Pick up samples of wallpaper if you see something you love, even if you don't plan to use wallpaper. It will give you color combination that work well together.
5. TAKE YOUR TIME AND ENJOY THE PLANING PROCESS OF DECORATING YOUR LIVING ROOM
Using this technique set your creativity free and take all the time you need to put together the perfect selection of items. Choose your paint color carefully and unless you want your walls to be a focal point in your decorating scheme choose a color that will create a foil for the rest of your living room decor.
6. TAKE YOUR TIME WHEN SHOPPING FOR FURNITURE & DECOR
We all look forward to having our living room decorating finished, so that we can sit back and enjoy it. But if you can allow your room to be an ongoing creative endeavor, adding items slowly as you find them, you will create a room that is uniquely you and in which you will only have things you love. If you buy something you do not love, replace it as soon as possible. Sell the couch, or lamp, or painting on Craig's List or Ebay, and find something you do love.
By all means consider buying used to begin with. You will find great quality furniture on Craig's List if you take your time to wait until you find what you're looking for. Until you are absolutely sure of what you want, buying used can save you a ton of money.
Tags: living room, , room that, something love, that will, buying used
If you are installing a 3D tile ceiling and you end up with a space that is not right for the tiles you have, you can trim or cut the ceiling tiles to fit the space you need to cover. Cutting 3-D tiles is not difficult and can be done by any home carpenter.
Instructions
1. Use the tape measure to measure the space into which the ceiling tile needs to fit.
2. Transfer the measurement to the BACK of the ceiling tile you will be cutting.
3. Use a razor blade knife to score the ceiling tile along the required measurements. Make several shallow cuts along the line that you measured.
4. Bend the tile gently along the line that you scored until the tile begins to break. It will break along the line you scored.
5. Use the razor blade to shave off any excess tile material along the edge that was cut.
Tags: along line, ceiling tile, along line that, line that, razor blade
Bathroom vanities can take many shapes and styles.
A bathroom vanity is an integral and functional part of many bathroom designs. Vanities can be functional and decorative and can fit into nearly any style bathroom. Selecting a bathroom vanity should be done by considering both of these attributes to ensure that the vanity fits both your lifestyle and your aesthetic style.
Bathroom Vanity Overview
A bath vanity is a cabinet that incorporates a countertop and sink to enhance the style and function of the bathroom. While sinks can be mounted on their own, either to the wall or with a pedestal base, a vanity can add a lot to a bathroom design.
Vanities can be used to give additional storage to a bathroom, both concealed and on the counter, while providing an additional source of color, texture and style.
Sizes of Vanities
The smallest bathroom vanity available on the market today is 18 inches in width, with the largest vanities able to take up as much space as bathroom has. Draw banks, sink cabinet bases, linen towers, makeup counters and laundry pull-outs can all be added together to form one piece of furniture for the bathroom.
Functionally, any greater than 60 inches in length can have two sinks and two sets of faucets installed. Vanities can come in heights ranging from 30 inches to 34 1/2 inches, with depths of 18 inches or 21 inches.
Vanity Furniture
A bathroom vanity cabinet does not have to be made specifically for a bathroom. Any piece of furniture large enough to hold a sink can be made into a bathroom vanity. This includes pieces of furniture such as tables or side cabinets. Pieces of furniture were originally used to house basins of water and sinks before indoor plumbing, giving way to the vanities in use today.
Contemporary Vanities
Bath vanities are available in nearly any color, style or size. Contemporary bathroom vanities are becoming more frequently used today as new styles become available. Contemporary vanities often include stainless steel, acrylic resin tops, flat door fronts or open-concept designs with shelves rather than doors and drawers.
Traditional Vanities
Formal or traditional vanity designs are available in several species of wood, color, design and size. Traditional vanities are most often closed, with door and drawer fronts concealing the contents of the vanity. Traditional vanities can include wood carvings, two-tone stains and glazes and varying types of countertops, including wood, marble or solid surface. Furniture-style legs may also be included.
Classic Vanities
Classic vanity designs are the most simple. These include shaker doors, beadboard doors, white or cream-colored cabinets and materials such as particle board, wood or MDF.
Classic vanity designs are often inexpensive and can complement a wide range of bathroom designs, from traditional to modern.
Ceilings are typically made of plaster, drywall or fiber tiles, but if you want a more interesting covering --- rustic, classic and a conversation piece --- consider a cedar wood ceiling. Wood ceilings install under the same principle as wood floors, with tongue and groove fittings on the sides that hold the boards together. The boards have to be attached to joists, not plaster. You can buy an electronic stud finder at a hardware store.
Instructions
1. Locate and mark each ceiling joist inside the ceiling, using a stud finder. Draw lines across the ceiling with your pencil and level to show where the joists are across the whole ceiling.
2. Measure the ceiling along the starting wall, which must be perpendicular to the direction of the joists. Cut a ceiling plank to that length.
3. Set the board on the ceiling, along the starting wall, with groove facing the wall. Hold the board 3/8-inch out from the wall, so there's a gap along the edge of the board. This will allow for wood expansion as the climate changes.
4. Secure the board. Shoot two nails up through its face at each point where the board crosses a joist.
5. Measure and cut the next board. Lock it alongside the first one, connecting the groove of the second board over the tongue of the first. Press them tightly together.
6. Secure the second board by shooting one nail through the side, above the tongue, at an upward angle, so the next board will hide the nailhead. Put one nail at each point where it crosses a joist.
7. Repeat the process, working your way across the whole ceiling. Use a table saw to cut the last row of boards lengthwise, so they fit along the ending wall with a 3/8-inch space left.
8. Measure, cut and install trim around the perimeter of the ceiling to cover the gaps.
Tags: across whole, across whole ceiling, along starting, along starting wall, Cedar Wood
Texturing can add a look of complexity to a ceiling, but there are times when you might want a smoother surface for a new coat of paint. It's a simple job but it can be time-consuming and messy. Using the right equipment and approach can cut down on both the time and the mess; your ceiling can be ready to paint after only a day's work.
Instructions
1. Cover the furniture and floor with drop cloths to protect against falling dust and particles.
2. Put on the face mask and goggles to protect your lungs and eyes.
3. Attach a dust-free drywall sander, which is simply a mesh sander equipped with an attachment for a hose, to a vacuum cleaner. Attach the drywall sander and hose to a sanding pole for a longer reach.
4. Sand the texture from the ceiling using 100-grit sanding mesh. Take care to not go below the surface of the ceiling into the drywall.
5. Remove dust from the ceiling surface once you've gone over the entire area.
6. Spot-prime any thin patches where the sander may have gone past the texture into the ceiling paint. Use two coats of an oil-based primer to apply the spot patches, allowing it to dry completely before continuing.
7. Combine premixed drywall compound with water, thinning the mixture until it's the consistency of mayonnaise. Apply the thinned compound to the a wallboard knife, covering the entire surface. Allow the covering to dry.
8. Lightly sand the new surface smooth to prepare it for the new coat of paint.
Use antique brass fixtures in your country bathrooms.
Decorating a bathroom with country decor brings charm and nostalgia to the room. Many of the items you need to decorate a country bathroom are inexpensive because they are refurbished pieces. Recycle old dressers, bookcases, barn boards, and antiques. You can find vintage country furniture and accessories at antiques centers, farm auctions, and thrift and secondhand stores. Use colors like antique white, weathered-wood gray, red, and blue. Country-theme bathrooms make a great choice for cottages, second homes, and country homes.
Instructions
1. Use old barn boards to create wainscoting. Create a vertical, horizontal, or diagonal pattern 36 to 48 inches high using 2-by-4-foot or 2-by-6-foot boards. Use weathered nails to attach the boards to the walls. Top the wainscoting with a chair rail made from a 2-by-4-foot board mounted horizontally.
2. Paint the upper walls antique white, or hang wallpaper that has a vintage-inspired pattern.
3. Accessorize with inexpensive antiques and resale shop items. Choose a theme for coordinating pictures and accessories: sunflowers, American flags, stars, barn animals, farm equipment, or antique signs.
4. Use barn boards or weathered wood to make shelves to hold old books, vases, and knickknacks. Install wrought-iron brackets on the wall to mount the shelves.
5. Use a milk pail, crock, or bucket as a wastebasket. Use old mason jars to hold toothbrushes or flowers and to use as a drinking glass. Use vintage baskets to hold towels, toilet paper, or magazines.
6. Install recycled, wrought-iron hardware on the cabinets and bathroom door.
7. Create towel holders from wood pegs or wrought-iron hooks. Hang white towels on the pegs or hooks.
8. Replace the toilet seat with an oak seat. Place an oval rag rug in front of the tub and toilet.
9. Place a wicker chair or antique chair in a corner.
10. Install wood shutters on the windows. Paint the shutters white.
Tags: barn boards, antique white, boards weathered
Home surround sound systems have progressed from huge, treble-heavy speaker systems to smaller, bass-booming, ground-shaking smaller, more modern speaker systems. With this progression and the ever-increasing number of speakers included with some systems, it has become necessary to be creative when it comes to figuring out where the speakers should go. If you are cramped for space, consider suspending the speakers from your ceiling with a ceiling speaker mount kit.
Instructions
1. Hold the speaker mount up to the spot on the ceiling where you want it and use a pencil to mark the spots for the anchor screw holes.
2. Drill holes for the anchor screws using a power drill, and then grab the screws that came with the speaker mount and reposition the mount over the holes.
3. Screw the speaker mount to your ceiling using a power drill or screwdriver with the included screws. Once secure, grab the speaker you will be connecting to the mount and position it where it needs to go.
4. Secure the speaker to the mount using the default method for your specific mount. They will be connected to each other using the keyhole on the back of the speaker, but whether or not screws are used to secure them to each other will vary between mounts.
5. Route your speaker wires along the ceiling using a staple gun (recommended) or masking tape to secure them in place, and then repeat these steps for any other speakers in your sound system.
Tags: speaker mount, ceiling using, each other, power drill, secure them, speaker systems, using power
Don't be afraid to use color in an open floor plan design.
Open concept floor plans are popular in modern home design. They result in wide open spaces where one living space flows into the next. An open concept kitchen and living room area is often referred to as a great room, and choosing paint colors for it can be a challenge. With the myriad of color choices available to you, deciding which ones will work best with your design style can be mind boggling. But before you settle on that old stand by, white, take the time to learn about choosing color.
Instructions
1. Unite the kitchen and living room. Paint the area with one color. Choose a neutral color to unite the rooms without overwhelming the furnishings and architectural elements.
2. Apply shades of the same color. Choose a main color. Consult paint swatches for two lighter shades of the same color. Paint the one area with the main color. Use the middle color in the other space. Highlight architectural features with the lightest shade.
3. Select three complementary colors. Look at a color wheel to see the colors that are across from each other. These are complementary colors and not shades of the same color. One complementary color will be a warm color like orange. The color opposite it will be a cool color like blue. Choose lighter shades of complementary colors for a quiet mood and deeper shades for more impact.
4. Consider other colors in the room. Look at the colors of the kitchen cabinets, the moldings and architectural features like fireplace mantels and columns. Take into consideration upholstery and furniture colors, and choose colors that complement rather than clash with them.
5. Choose go with your decorating style. For example, you might opt for a gray-blue, colonial red and mustard color scheme for a country space, where as a great room with a Tuscan flair calls for earth tones like golds and muted greens.
6. Highlight window trim or architectural features like columns with a bright color such as primary blue. Paint the adjoining wall a light shade of orange.
7. Tone down shades of one color or two complementary colors by adding white to your color scheme. Use it on things like wainscoting and finish off the wall in one of the other colors. Paint the ceiling and window and door trim white.
Tags: complementary colors, architectural features, colors that, same color, shades same, shades same color
Do-it-yourselfers can create attractive ceilings with a few tools and some advance planning.
USG Ceilings provides tiles in a broad range of colors, shapes, sizes, and profiles that comply with all relevant building codes. The manufacturer claims that many of these tiles are class-A fire-rated, stain resistant, thermo-efficient and mildew- and mold-resistant.They are used in a system that includes an L-shaped perimeter bracket to support the suspended ceiling, and a grid of main runners intersecting with cross tees.
Instructions
1. Determine the dimensions of your room and design a grid layout for your project. For example if you are going to use 12 inch by12 inch tile in a 16 foot by 16 foot room, than you would need 256 individual tiles to fully cover the ceiling. It is useful to draw out the dimension of the room on grid paper and to individually draw each tile to the model scale in the place you would like to position your ceiling tiles. Then you can simply count out how many tiles will fit, including any partial tiles in your count.
2. Determine if you are going to have partial tiles by taking the area of the room you just calculated and dividing it by the panel length, then do the same for the width.
3. Determine the height you want your ceiling to sit at, including sufficient head clearance. If you want to cover an incomplete ceiling make sure the height of the ceiling will be adequate to cover exposed wire, air ducts, ceiling beams, and any other feature you want hidden.
4. Research the building codes for your area for the height requirements of your ceiling. Most codes require a minimum of 7-1/2 ft. ceiling height. You will need about four inches of space between the old and new ceilings to tilt the panels and drop them place, and an additional two inches if you intend to install full-panel fluorescent ceiling lights.
5. Use a ruler to measure from the bottom of the ceiling joists to the location you want your ceiling to start, marking the location on your wall with a pencil. Trace a reference line around the perimeter of the walls surrounding the room using your level and the first mark as a reference. Measure down from the joists at several locations around the room to ensure the correct height is marked.
6. Align the L-shaped molding perimeter so that the top of the base of the L aligns with the perimeter line, and nail them in place to the studs in the wall using 6d nails. To cover a stretch of wall that is longer than one of your molds, just push the ends of two pieces of molding together. For corners either install the first length of molding tight against the corner and overlap the second molding inside the L shape of the first, or use your tin snips to cut both moldings at a 45-degree angle and secure them in place with 6d nails.
7. Measure out from the starting wall the calculated gap distance and draw a reference line on all the joists spanning from one wall to the opposite wall. Measure the length of a tile and mark the next reference line that distance over from your first. Continue this pattern across the room. If the length of your tile is four feet, then you would make a reference line every four feet.
8. Screw small eye-bolts into every third joist along the reference lines and fasten lengths of 16-gauge wire to each eye-bolt. Twist the wire at least three times around itself at the top. Run some string across the room between perimeter moldings and pull it tight so there is no slack. Do this every eight inches, aligning the string with the bottom of the molding.
9. Lay one end of the main runners on the perimeter molding, making it level with the first string. Feed the nearest hanging wire through the nearest hole in the runner and bend the wire up and twist it securely to the other end of the wire. Use the string to position the height of the runner and continue attaching the hanging wire through the holes in the runner.
10. Hang up all the runners using this method. If the runner is too short to run the full length of the room, join two runners end to end, using the slots and tabs built into the ends of each. Then place an additional wire support near each of these joints.
11. Install the cross tees, hooking each end to fit into the slots in the runners. If the width of your tile is two feet, space each cross tee two feet apart. Install your lighting to fit into the grid system.
12. Install the first several ceiling tile in the center of the hanging grid to help align the assembly. Tilt the tile, pushing it through and above the grid without damaging the tile. Gently drop the panel into place. Make any adjustments as necessary, using sandpaper to sand areas that are slightly tight and a utility knife to cut tiles that need larger adjustments.
13. Cut the tiles so that they fit into the grid, fit the perimeter openings, and fit around any obstruction such as lighting, sprinklers, air ventsm or any other item extruding beyond the ceiling line. Always cut the tile with the finished side of the panel facing up
Tags: reference line, your ceiling, them place, across room, building codes
The lighting style and finish you choose helps set the tone for your space.
When you're building a new home or remodeling an existing one, the number of design decisions to make can feel overwhelming. Step inside your local home improvement store, and you'll find seemingly endless options for lighting, including style, finish, bulb type and mounting style. Whether or not the fixtures need to match depends on several factors.
Lighting in the Same Room
Installed lights within the same room, such as chandeliers and pendants in a kitchen, should match in finish and style. Even if you select two light are both brushed nickel, ensure the styles of both fixtures are consistent. For example, don't choose one very contemporary fixture and one antique. However, installed lighting does not necessarily need to match task lighting, such as lamps on a side table. See that your lighting has the same character and feel to keep your room cohesive.
Lighting Throughout a Home
Lights in one room do not have to match lights in another. If you can choose lighting fixtures that complement each other, you can create a home that feels interesting and layered, though achieving this look takes some skill and effort. If you'd prefer your home to feel cohesive but don't want the lighting finishes to match, find a common theme to tie them together. For example, choose similar styles in different finishes.
Bathrooms and Kitchens
Selecting lighting in your bathroom or kitchen may feel more complicated because you have faucets and cabinet hardware to consider as well. Try to match your lighting to the existing hardware; however, matching isn't absolutely necessary as the lights are separated visually from the faucets and cabinet knobs and pulls. If possible, aim for lights that keep in character of the room. For example, if your bathroom is traditional, do not choose an extremely modern light fixture even if the finishes are similar.
Other Considerations
Consider the finishes you'll be mixing as some finishes play better together than others. For example, oil-rubbed bronze can blend seamlessly with brushed nickel as both have a historic and traditional feel. Polished chrome and brushed nickel are similar in color, so differences will be more difficult to discern. Brass and silver are more likely to clash.
Tags: brushed nickel, example choose, faucets cabinet, , need match
Halloween is a fantastic holiday where scaring people is acceptable and treats are plentiful. You can do a little of both by putting out some decorations. It’s fun to get into the holiday frame of mind and bring out a bit of our inner child. Every room in the home that you and your guests frequent should have some type of decorations, including the bathroom. Here are some fun and easy ideas for the bathroom that are sure to add a little extra Halloween spirit to your home.
Instructions
1. Add a fake skeleton to your bathtub. You have three options for pose position it. Put the skeleton in the tub, close the shower curtain and just hang an arm out so that it’s the only thing visible. Or, you can leave the door open so that the entire skeleton is visible. If you have a shower door, you can stand the skeleton up inside the shower stall so that the face is against the inside of the closed door.
2. Stick small, lifelike snakes or spiders around the bathroom. You can stick it by the sink, add a couple on the floor, stick one out from underneath your bathroom rug or anywhere else that they can easily be seen. They come in the same color patterns as real snakes and spiders, so it will take people a couple of seconds after spotting them to realize that they’re not real.
3. Put up glow in the dark eyes. You can find these in any party supply store. As soon as the lights go off, you will see the creepy glowing eyes. Before you buy them, read the directions to see what type of surfaces they can be applied to. A good idea is to stick them to the bathroom mirror, the toilet and on any other surfaces that are not painted. You may have to use double-sided tape, so putting them on wallpaper or painted surfaces isn’t a good idea as it may rip the paper or paint.
4. Put out a few black or orange flameless candles. They are inexpensive and will be safer than using real candles. They also won't create a mess by creating wax drips all over the place.
Popcorn ceiling texture hides imperfections in the drywall.
A hopper gun sprays popcorn-style drywall texture on ceilings. Popcorn texture hides the ceiling's drywall joints, screw holes and any slight imperfections in the drywall's surface. Popcorn gives the ceiling a uniform, uninterrupted surface. Adjusting the nozzle on a hopper gun changes the look of the texture. This feature lets a texture installer blend a new ceiling patch into the old ceiling's popcorn texture, or the installer can use the hopper gun to spray a popcorn ceiling and then change the nozzle for a different drywall texture on the walls without changing the texture material.
Instructions
1. Cover the walls and floor with plastic sheeting. Use painter's tape to hold the top of the plastic against the top of the wall. Painter's tape looks like masking tape, but it will not leave glue residue on the wall after removing it like masking tape will.
2. Combine a bag of texture mix and water in a bucket. Use the texture manufacturer's recommended texture-to-water ratio.
3. Stir the texture mix and water with a drill equipped with a paddle bit. Agitate the mixture for five minutes.
4. Turn on an air compressor. Set its pressure regulator to 40 psi. Usually a knob under the pressure gauge adjusts the regulator.
5. Connect one end of an air hose to the compressor and the other end of the hose to the hopper gun.
6. Fill the hopper halfway with the texture mix.
7. Test the hopper's spray pattern on a piece of cardboard. Follow the hopper's instructions to adjust, or change, the hopper nozzle as necessary.
8. Hold the hopper gun 18 inches from the ceiling. Use a ladder when working on high ceilings.
9. Spray a light coat of popcorn texture onto the ceiling in circular motions. Start in one corner and work across the room.
10. Wait 15 minutes, then give the ceiling a second coat. Continue to add coats of popcorn every 15 minutes until the ceiling has the desired texture.
11. Wait one hour after applying the last coat of popcorn texture. Remove the plastic sheeting from the walls and set it in the center of the room. Fold the edges of the floor's plastic sheeting over the pile of plastic, then discard the plastic sheeting.
Insulation is used to reduce thermal transfer through the walls and roof of a building. For homes with little or no ceiling insulation, adding insulating materials can have a big impact on energy consumption and comfort levels. Ceiling and roof areas are also one of the easiest areas in the home to insulate without performing major renovations and repairs. Homeowners can choose from a number of insulating materials depending on their needs.
Types
Some of the more commonly used ceiling insulation materials include blankets or batts, loose fill, rigid foam or spray foam. Fiberglass or cotton blankets are easiest and most affordable way to insulate, though they are also the least effective at reducing thermal transfer. Loose fill products made from shredded newspaper are slightly more costly, but are also more effective and versatile. Rigid or spray foam products are the most expensive, but offer the highest level of insulation effectiveness, even in tight spaces.
Benefits
According to the Bonneville Power Administration, as much as 45 percent of the heat produced by a home heating system is lost through the roof. By adding insulation homeowners can reduce heat loss and lower monthly heating bills. This reduced energy consumption can prolong the life of your HVAC equipment while minimizing your impact on the environment. A well-insulated home is also less drafty and more comfortable for occupants.
Uses
Most homeowners insulate their ceilings by added insulation to attic floors and ceilings. Fiberglass or foam insulation can be added between joists in attics that are easily accessible, or loose fill products can be sprayed into tighter spaces from below. The best way to insulate a cathedral ceiling is to fasten rigid foam panels between framing members, though furring strips can also be added to support more economical fiberglass batts. Some homeowners with flat roofs should also consider using spray foam to add insulation to existing ceiling structures.
Features
Ceiling insulation is often chosen based on its R-value, or thermal resistance rating. Materials with higher R-values are typically more effective insulators, while lower R-values are associated with lower thermal resistance levels. According to the U.S. DOE Energy Star program, have an R-value between 2 and 3 per inch, and rigid and spray foam can range from R-4 to R-8. Loose fill cellulose has an R-value of 3.6 to 3.8.
Considerations
When choosing ceiling insulation homeowners must consider the cost of each material in relation to their budget, as well as the cost of installation. Fiberglass is easy to work with and inexpensive, making it the most budget-friendly choice. The higher upfront costs of other types of insulation should be weighed against the potential savings in energy bills and equipment replacement over time. One should also consider space available, existing levels of insulation, and the average temperature range in the region when comparing these materials.
Tags: spray foam, also consider, ceiling insulation, Ceiling Insulation Types, , fiberglass batts, fill products
Raised wood paneling is just one of the wood wall for your office.
Whether you already have wood wall paneling in your office or you're planning to add it, wood wall paneling can add visual interest and warmth to your office walls. Although you can purchase the basic wood wall paneling that became popular in the 1970s, modern wood wall paneling provides more options.
Paint
If you already have old-style wood in your office, you don't have to remove it to give the wall an update. Paint the paneling with a coat of primer. Apply your color. You can paint the paneling to match your other walls, or choose another color to make the wall stand out. If you like the wood look but your wood paneling is too dark for your taste, apply a faux wood paint treatment on your wood paneling in a lighter color.
Stick with the Basics
From wainscoting to raised panels to the basic panels of the 1970s, many wood paneling options are on the market. Create a masculine haven by installing a dark, raised wood panel on every wall of your office, reminiscent of an old-fashioned study. You can apply white wainscoting for a lighter look. For an unusual look, apply board paneling horizontally or on the diagonal.
Create Your Own
If the typical wood paneling options available at home improvement stores aren't for you, create your own wood wall paneling for your office. Have your raised paneling custom built to your specifications. Give your office character by building your own. Choose basic unfinished tongue and groove wood flooring. Stain the flooring different colors, and install it on a single wall to provide a focal point. For a colorful look, purchase balsa wood from a craft or wood supply store. Stain each piece a different color and place them one at a time on your wall.
Tags: wall paneling, wood wall, wood wall paneling, your office, wood paneling, paneling options, paneling your
Lanterns are one style of lamp used in primitive decorating.
Primitive decorating is a branch off of colonial design. It involves decor that makes your home appear antique. Common metals used are bronze and copper. Wood is also a very popular choice for everything from furniture to decorations. While most modern bathrooms are not as easily decorated using this early colonial style, it is possible to create a primitive-looking vanity with some creative lighting techniques.
Lamps
One of the simplest options for lighting a primitive decorated bathroom is a primitive style lamp. Back in colonial times, kerosene lamps and candles were the only means of lighting a room after dark, so candle-holder lamps and lanterns were usually present in every room. Some modern lamps that create a similar effect are typically crafted from tin, copper or brass. The lamp can be set up similar to a lantern with a glass box surrounding the bulb, or it may look more like a candle holder.
Sconces
If you don't want to completely eliminate your old electrical hookups, you could use a primitive-looking wall sconce. Sconces are single or double bulb light sources that have the look and feel of a candle holder. In fact, there are some sconces available that actually have a plastic molded candle complete with wax drips.
Vanity Sets
If you prefer a well-lit vanity, consider using a vanity set. These primitive lighting sets are typically comprised of a wooden or polished copper backer with four to five bulb outlets that look like candles. Each candle is usually held up with a metal holder to have the appearance of a candelabra.
Light Bulbs
Without a doubt, if you are trying to achieve a primitive bathroom decor, you must use chandelier light bulbs. These bulbs are crafted to look like candle flames. They have a thinner appearance than conventional bulbs, but still release an excellent amount of modern light.
Tags: candle holder, like candle, look like, style lamp
Chandeliers should hang at least 7 feet off the floor.
Hanging a chandelier in a foyer can be a tricky task. You must not hang the chandelier too low, or else it can hit the heads of people who pass by. If the chandelier is hung too high, you won't be able to fully see its design. Choosing where to place the chandelier takes precision and careful consideration. Follow a few simple guidelines to help you determine the proper height to hang a chandelier in a foyer.
Instructions
1. Hold the end of a measuring tape against the floor. Pull the tape out upward until you reach 7 feet. Do not allow the lowest point of your chandelier to go below that spot --- chandeliers should not reach lower than 7 feet above the ground to provide adequate head clearance. If you have high ceilings --- taller than 10 feet --- you should not go lower than 7 feet, 6 inches to balance the space below and above the fixture. Allow at least 2 feet between the ceiling and the top of the chandelier.
2. Hang your chandelier in the same manner as described in Step 1 if you're hanging it in a two-story foyer in which the second story overlooks the first. However, do not allow the chandelier to hang past the second story.
3. Purchase a chandelier that appropriately fits your foyer. A good rule of thumb is to hang a chandelier that is 2-½ to 3 inches high per each foot the room is tall. For instance, if the foyer is 10 feet tall, you would hang a chandelier that is 25 to 30 inches tall. A chandelier of this size will look more balanced in the room than one that is shorter or taller.
Tags: hang chandelier, chandelier that, than feet, chandelier that inches, hang chandelier that, least feet, lower than
Timber cladding is an exterior covering of a home that protects the walls from moisture and air penetration. Builders have used wood cladding since the late 1800s when they began to implement modern construction techniques. The styles of timber cladding are not many, but each offers its own distinct look and character.
Tapered Lap Timber Cladding
of cladding has a slightly tapered thickness at the top of cladding and widens at the bottom. The cladding is installed horizontally with a 30 mm overlap of each cladding piece. The cladding is nailed to the walls just above the cladding overlap.
Notched Lap
Notched lap cladding has has the same taper to it as lap cladding. The top and bottom are notched to that the pieces will fit together when installed. In this case, the overlap is only the size of the notch, about 15 mm. The cladding is nailed to the walls just above the cladding overlap.
Shiplap Timber Cladding
of timber cladding has a notched overlap, but also has a slight angle after the notch to give the cladding some added character. This type of siding is nailed directly through the face of the siding with two nails and has about a 25 mm overlap.
Chamferbaord Timber Cladding
Chamferboard, also known as Dutchlap, cladding has a notched installation design with the top of the cladding shaped at a long angle of roughly 10 degrees. This type of siding has an overlap of about 12 mm and is nailed through the face of the siding to secure it to the walls.
When preparing for renovations of older homes, you will likely encounter old insulation. Depending on the type, it could be dangerous to your health, damaged or simply too old to be as effective as modern insulation. Learn identify old ceiling insulation.
Insulation Types
First, you should understand the different types of insulation. There are five main types of insulation that you may encounter. Loose-fill insulation consists of natural or man-made fibers that are blown into the ceiling cavity. Batt or blanket insulation is made from glass or cotton fiber and comes in roll form, usually in widths of 16 or 24 inches. Rigid insulation is extruded into board form and is often made of plastic. Foam insulation is sprayed into place and expands to fill the cavity. Radiant barriers, which are usually installed in the attic, have aluminum foil backing to prevent heat from radiating through.
Identifying Old Insulation
Some of the insulation types discussed above are the result of new technology. Older types of insulation include loose-fill or batt fiberglass, which can be pink, yellow or white. While this type is often still used, older insulation may be discolored or torn and is therefore less effective. If the insulation is wool-like and gray, it may be loose-fill rockwool. If it is white, however, it may be a newer product. Shredded newspaper, or loose-fill cellulose, was another common insulation in the past. Vermiculite and Perlite are older granulated insulations with relatively low R-values, which describes the product's thermal resistance. Sometimes, wood products such as sawdust or balsa wood were used at insulation in old homes, but these are very ineffective.
While it may be acceptable to leave some older insulation types in place, replacing it with new insulation with a higher R-value will result in energy savings.
Dangerous Old Insulation
Two types of old insulation that are dangerous to your health are urea formaldehyde foam, which is usually gray or yellow and brittle, and asbestos. Formaldehyde off-gasing is a concern, so this product is no longer on the market. Most people are aware of the dangers of asbestos, which may cause cancer and other health problems. If you suspect your home contains asbestos insulation, you should not remove it yourself. Instead, hire an asbestos abatement contractor to safely remove this insulation before proceeding with any renovations.
A lamp that works is usually taken for granted, while those that don't are frequently cast aside. Unless you've been looking for a reason to buy a new one anyway, it would be a shame to add yet another nonfunctioning but repairable floor or table lamp to the thrift store clearance isle. Assuming the lamp is plugged into a working receptacle and is equipped with a bulb that is known to be good, a bit of troubleshooting with a multimeter is in order.
Instructions
1. Remove the lampshade. Remove the bulb. Plug in the lamp and turn it on.
2. Set the multimeter to measure 120 volts AC. Touch one of the multimeter probes to the metal contact at the bottom of the socket and the other probe to the metal side of the socket. If there is no reading on the multimeter or if the reading is intermittent, unplug the lamp and clean the bottom contact with a pencil eraser or the tip of a screwdriver. Plug in the lamp and test the socket again. Continue troubleshooting if the multimeter doesn't read a steady voltage.
3. Unplug the lamp. Remove the socket cover to expose the electrical wiring and terminals. Ensure that the wires are in the proper position and firmly soldered to the terminals or that the terminal screws are tight. Set the multimeter to measure resistance (conductivity) in ohms. Touch one probe to the gold-colored terminal and the other to the metal contact at the bottom of the lamp socket. Observe the multimeter as you turn the lamp on and off. A steady reading of high or infinite resistance indicates a faulty socket or switch; they are replaced as a unit. A reading that alternates from zero resistance to high indicates a functioning switch, in which case further troubleshooting is required.
4. Leave the multimeter set to measure resistance. Hold one of the multimeter probes against one prong of the plug. Touch the other multimeter probe to the gold-colored terminal while observing the multimeter. If the multimeter reads high or infinite resistance, touch the probe to the silver-colored terminal. If the reading is still high resistance, that wire is broken somewhere along its length, and the power cord must be replaced. A reading of low resistance in both positions indicates a short, in which case the power cord must be replaced. One high and one low reading means the wire is good. Test the other wire in the same manner.
Tags: multimeter measure, power cord, contact bottom, cord must, cord must replaced, gold-colored terminal
This compact fluorescent light bulb is installed in a recessed can.
Fluorescent light bulbs are used in many commercial applications primarily because they save the company money on electricity bills. Many people do not realize the differences in costs between different types of fluorescent bulbs. On a global scale, experts such as Abt & Associates are researching potential future economic impacts. The concerns are environmental effects these bulbs create because of their toxic mercury content and how they can affect human health and the fishing industry.
Lower Energy Bills
You can have lower wiht fluorescent bulbs compared with incandescent lamps, because fluorescent bulbs convert electrical power into light more efficiently. Different types of fluorescent lights exist for different uses; for example, tube lights such as T12, which are being phased out for the more efficient T8 light bulbs. These bulbs are usually used in commercial spaces, industries, warehouses, schools and government buildings. They are also used in residential spaces such as kitchens and garages.
Compact fluorescent (CFL) bulbs that fit in normal screw-in sockets are now popular. Compared to incandescent light bulbs, CFL bulbs cost three times less in electricity expenses.
Short-term Costs vs Long-term Costs
Because a fluorescent bulb needs a ballast to control the flow of current through the lamp, it is usually more costly than an incandescent lamp. Also, compared to other fluorescent lamps, buying the cheapest fluorescent bulbs with integrated electronic ballasts may save you on short-term costs; however, they have a shorter life span and therefore will end up increasing your long-term costs due to lamp replacement costs. Tax incentives are available in some states, and utility discounts are available in certain municipalities to assist in offsetting the upfront costs of purchasing quality fluorescent bulbs.
Less Maintenance Costs
Looking at the life-span of a fluorescent bulb is a very important factor in your overall economic impact. The longer life can minimize lamp replacements, which as of 2010 average about $15 per light. This can add up quickly, especially if you include additional per trip charges or other surcharges that may be included.
Decorative crown molding hides any imperfections where the wall meets the ceiling while at the same time giving the room character. Typical pointed outside corners turn at 90 degrees. A rounded, or bullnose, corner can also turn at 90 degrees. However, crown molding installed in the typical fashion leaves a noticeable gap between the wall and the molding. Determine the degrees in the corner's turn and divide this number by four to discover the angle of the cuts you need to make.
Instructions
1. Cut a piece of scrap 2-by-4 into two 2-foot boards. Place one board on each side of the bullnose corner so their ends intersect. Use a pencil to trace where the top board intersects the bottom board and lower them from the corner.
2. Lay the bottom board on a flat surface with the tracing face up. Hold a protractor flat against the board's bottom and determine the pencil mark's angle. The pencil mark's angle will be the same as the corner's angle. Divide this angle by four to determine the necessary angle of each cut. For example, 90 divided by four equals 22 1/2. In this example, you would set a miter saw to a 22 1/2 degree cut.
3. Place the first piece of molding on the miter saw table with the decorative side facing away from you. Cut a small piece off the end, just enough to angle that end to the appropriate angle. Flip the molding over so the decorative side faces you. Measure 3/4 inch down, on the molding's bottom edge, and make another cut. You now have a small, crown-molding triangle. Set the triangle aside.
4. Measure the distance from the last installed piece of crown molding to the bullnose corner. Transfer this measurement to a new piece of crown molding. Adjust the miter saw blade to point to either the right or the left, depending on which side of the corner you install this piece of molding. Set the cut to the and cut the crown molding at the mark.
5. Lift the crown molding up to the wall and secure it in place with a pneumatic nailer and finishing nails. Spread wood glue on the 's sides and push it onto the installed molding's end.
6. Measure from the little triangle down to determine the length of the next piece of crown molding. Adjust the miter saw blade to either the left or right at the appropriate angle and cut through the molding. Lift this piece up to the wall and push its cut end against the little triangle's glued end. Secure it in place with a pneumatic nailer and finishing nails.
Commercial corridor ceilings need ratings for fire protection.
Corridor ceilings in commercial or office buildings require ratings for fire resistance. These ceilings must comply with the regulations of the Uniform Building Code. In many cases, installing two layers of gypsum board in the corridor ceiling allows the ceiling to comply with ratings, but local construction officials must inspect and approve the installation.
Terms
Fire resistance is the property of building materials to prevent or delay excessive heat passage or that of flames under fire conditions. A fire-resistance rating is the time period that any building component maintains the ability for fire containment or continues to perform its structural function during fire conditions. The UBC and the International Code Council have testing methods to determine fire resistance ratings. Minimal ratings are at least one hour of fire resistance.
Requirements
At a minimum for fire resistance, gypsum panels on the room side of the corridor walls extend to a corner, meeting to form an outside angle with the gypsum board layers on top of the ceiling. This ceiling is built as if it were a separate wall, placed completely on the corridor wall top so that the ceiling's lowest panel extends above the walls' top plates. Because creation of corner and head details may be open to interpretation, consult the local code official before corridor construction.
Obtaining a Corridor Rating
Obtaining an hourly rating for the corridor and its ceiling requires following standard industry practices during the construction process. If the walls of the corridor don't go to the deck, use the correct Underwriter's Laboratories design to put in the required fire resistant ceiling as well as a fire resistant grid in both the ceiling and surrounding areas. If the corridor's walls run to the above deck, find the Underwriter's Laboratories design for installation of the specific ceiling and grid. Where walls are penetrated, use fire-dampers to prevent fires from spreading through ductwork.
Testing
Commonly known as the tunnel test, the test used for ratings calculations is actually called the "Method of Test of Surface Burning Characteristics of Building Materials," by the National Fire Protection Association. The NFPA has not accepted alternative methods for determination of the characteristics of flame spread in buildings, although other ratings tests exist for product development purposes.
Tags: fire resistance, comply with, corridor ceiling, corridor walls, fire conditions
White mold in nature can be useful, but when you see it in your home or on food, it can be hazardous to your health. You easily can control it, but you must know what to look for beyond its color to know whether you have a problem.
Instructions
Spot White Mold in Homes
1. Locate areas of high moisture like leaky roofs and faucets, high humidity or flooded areas. White mold grows on many surfaces like wood, ceiling tiles, wallpaper, paints, carpet, sheet rock and insulation, so check them all.
2. Smell it. Musty smells can indicate that white mold is lurking somewhere, and probably not easily seen, like behind wallpaper or other wall coverings and underneath carpet or ceiling tiles.
3. Distinguish it from other molds in the house such as black mold, which is much more hazardous to people's health and brings the value of the home down significantly.
on Vegetables
4. Check for a dark green greasy or water-soaked spot--these are initial signs of white mold and will eventually develop white spores. The stem may appear brownish or grayish in color.
5. Look at particular vegetables; grows on beans, peas, carrots, lettuce and potatoes. Check the stems for wilting because this is a beginning stage, especially in potatoes.
6. Spot black things coming off of the white spores--these are called sclerotia which are an eighth to a quarter inch in diameter. These appear after the has formed and unfortunately can stay in the soil for a couple years and is harder to get rid of.
Tags: Spot White, , ceiling tiles, mold grows, white mold, White Mold
Keep your kitchen windows bright and airy with lightweight window treatments.
Sometimes, it is easy to ignore your kitchen windows because they are vulnerable to deposits or stains coming from smoke, grease, food and drinks. Choosing a window treatment for is a dilemma whenever you see the amount of work you must do to keep them clean. However, many window treatments are simple to maintain while providing aesthetic beauty and function to make your kitchen windows the center of attention.
Cafe Curtains
Keeping your kitchen bright and airy is possible with the use of cafe curtains. When hung in the horizontal midsection of the window, cafe curtains can let enough natural light in while giving you enough privacy. Opening the windows allows the breeze to circulate without drawing open the curtains. Choose the style that complements your overall design scheme. A pair of lace or sheer cafe curtains brings in more filtered light. Sheers and materials made of cotton are lightweight, making them easier to take down, wash and hang. Avoid expensive materials such as silk, satin and velvet because they are dirt magnets and difficult to clean. Splatters of stains and oil are tougher to remove from these fragile materials.
Plantation Shutters
If you are looking for versatility, low maintenance and durability, plantation shutters are among the choices you can make. Choose shutters made of PVC (polyvinyl chloride) instead of wood so that you don't have to deal with repainting or refinishing every few years. PVC shutters mimic the look of real wood without the expense and high maintenance. Choose 3-inch wide slats to let in more light and air. Hang them inside the sill for a seamless, cleaner look. Plantation shutters are ideal when you have a window above the stove. With plantation shutters, you don't have to worry too much about splatters; they are also not as susceptible to burns compared to curtains. In addition plantation shutters can complement any type of design, whether modern, traditional or country.
Indoor Awning or Canopy
One creative way to decorate a kitchen window is to use window awnings or canopies. Usually you will find canopies outdoors; however, you can also use them indoors as decorative window treatments. Choices of materials are aluminum, iron, steel, wood and canvas. Hang the canopies higher than the top of your windows so that they aren't too obtrusive. Use canopies to decorate a "bistro" or "cafe-style" kitchen. Accessorize the walls in your dining nook with outdoor wall sconces or trellises covered with silk ivy to make it seem as though you are dining outside of a classy cafe or restaurant in France or Italy.
Tags: your kitchen, window treatments, cafe curtains, kitchen windows, , because they
Ceiling joists may need splicing if they have been cracked during transport or construction. They might also be spliced if a piece has been cut out of one during prior renovations or if a very long joist is needed and you need to build it out of more than one piece of wood. When properly constructed, a joist splice can be virtually as strong as a solid piece of wood.
Instructions
1. Spread construction adhesive onto one face of each of the two 2-by-4s.
2. Place one of the 2-by-4s on the side of the joist that is being spliced. Center the 2-by-4 over the crack or break in the joist. Tack the 2-by-4 down by putting a 4-inch-long screw into each end. Drive the screws in far enough to hold the 2-by-4 to the joist, but not so far in that they go through the other side of the joist.
3. Put the second 2-by-4 on the other side of the joist so the joist is sandwiched between the two 2-by-4s. Screw this 2-by-4 to the joist with 4-inch-long screws, driving the screws all the way in so that they go through the 2-by-4, through the joist and into the opposite 2-by-4.
4. Go back to the first two screws you drove in and finish driving them in so they go through the joist and into the second 2-by-4.
5. Add more screws along the length of both 2-by-4s. The more screws you put in, the stronger the splice will be.
A suspended ceiling installed with faux tin suspended ceiling tiles.
A suspended ceiling is built by hanging a metal grid from and attaching various tiles to the grid in order to create a single surface. While creating a suspended ceiling is more work than putting up a traditional plasterboard ceiling, the benefits often make the work worthwhile. With a you create an easily accessible cavity between the joists and the ceiling surface where wires, pipes and ductwork can be located. It's not a difficult project to pull off, and with the right tools and techniques it's very possible to do it yourself.
Designs
Building a suspended ceiling offers you a good deal of control over the design of the ceiling, not just in look but in function. Most suspended ceilings are tile based, with the ceiling surface consisting of a series of tiles dropped into the metal grid. This allows you a wide choice in tile materials. The tiles used in your ceiling can be made of fire resistant materials, or they can be sound absorbent, or purely decorative. You can chose from a variety of colors and styles, including tiles that look like marble, oak or stucco. With such a wide choice of available tiles, your ceiling can be made to accentuate the décor of a room, changeable as needs arise.
Along with the design benefits, a DIY suspended ceiling costs far less that a professionally installed one. In 2009, the cost for a contractor to install a suspended ceiling in a 12 by 15ft. would average $325, while the DIY cost is only about $145.
Installing the Grid
You'll want to begin your suspended ceiling installation by establishing the height of the new ceiling. You should check local building codes, as a minimal height may be required. Check the level of the floor for sloping and then measure an even, level ceiling at the desired height, marking the level lines of your ceiling on the walls. After establishing the level, you'll want to nail your wall moldings to the wall.
Now mark with chalk the areas you'll be hanging the runners across the bottoms of the ceiling joists. When you've plotted out the runners, install the wire fasteners and hanger wire that will support them to the joists. Make sure the hanger wire is long enough to fall below your ceiling level by at least six inches.
Create a reference grid using string extended from the wall moldings and following the paths the runners will take. This reference grid will provide you a necessary guide when cutting the runners. When the grid is complete, begin cutting your runners, taking note of the cross tee sections where they will be installed to form the for the tiles. The cross tees are 48in. pieces of metal that are placed perpendicular to the runners. You'll have to cut the runners so that the cross tees intersect exactly or your ceiling will not install correctly.
When you've cut the runners, begin installing them using your reference grid as a guide. The metal hangers should be bent at the reference grid level so that they can be attached to the runners in order to suspend them. Install the runners, and then mount the cross tees between the rows of runners to complete the grid. If the runners were cut and installed correctly, the cross tees, once installed, should form a perfectly square grid.
Installing the Panels
Once the grid has been installed, all that's left of the job is the panel installation. Installing the panels is as simple as slipping them through the grid and dropping them into the grid square. For border areas of the grid, some panel cutting may be necessary, but once the panels have all been put into place your suspended ceiling is complete. There are panels created with lighting fixtures; these fixtures only require that you wire them into the electrical system of the room, and that the wires be run through the cavity above the ceiling.
Tags: suspended ceiling, your ceiling, cross tees, reference grid, metal grid, ceiling joists
Sound transmission class is used to rate soundproofing.
Sound transmission class (STC) is the rating system used for soundproofing. An uninsulated wall or ceiling has a 20 to 25 STC rating, which allows speech to be heard outside of the room. Metal joists have a higher STC rating than wood joists. Applying three layers of acoustic batting between the joists will increase the STC. Installing sound channels between the two layers of drywall will increase the STC rating. Sound channels are similar to strapping, but are made of metal. Sound channels create an air space where noise will be absorbed. The combination of the and the sound channels mounted between the two layers of 1/2-inch drywall creates an STC rating of 52, which is excellent.
Instructions
1. Measure the area to figure the amount of materials needed to cover the square footage of the room. Measure between the joists for the width of acoustic batting needed. Acoustic batting comes in 14-1/2 inches or 22-1/2 inches wide and is 3-1/2 inches thick. Purchase 20 percent more materials than needed, to allow for waste.
2. Cut the acoustic batting to the length needed to go from wall to wall between the ceiling joists. Push the acoustic batting between the ceiling joists, using insulation support wires to hold the batting in place.
3. Screw the first layer of 1/2-inch drywall to the . Screw sound channels every 16 inches in the opposite direction of the ceiling joists, or install acoustic tiles over the 1/2-inch drywall.
Tags: acoustic batting, ceiling joists, 2-inch drywall, acoustic batting between, batting between, between ceiling, between ceiling joists
No matter where you live or who you are, sooner or later you will encounter a problem with household pests. Convincing rats, mice and other household pests to find a new place to live can be quite a challenge, but there are some proven methods for getting rid of these unwanted visitors. If you find yourself with a rat problem, you need to address it at once. Not only do wild rats carry diseases, but they can also chew electrical wires, and those chewed wires can create a real fire hazard.
Instructions
1. Examine the perimeter of your apartment for places where rats could find their way in. Notify your landlord of any holes or gaps in the walls and ceilings, and ask her to have the spaces sealed. Use a flashlight to look under furniture, behind couches and in other hidden areas.
2. Ask your neighbors if they are experiencing problems with rats. If they are, ask your landlord to examine the foundation of the structure for places where vermin are finding their way in, and ask him to have those gaps sealed.
3. Practice good hygiene, especially where food is concerned. Rats have an incredible sense of smell, and if they sense food has been left out they will do everything in their power to get it. Always make sure that food is stored in the refrigerator, or in airtight plastic bowls. Never leave dishes in the sink overnight--even the smell of leftover food can be enough to drive neighborhood rats to your door.
4. Purchase a set of ultrasonic pest repellents for your apartment. These repellents plug into electrical outlets and emit a high frequency sound that rats cannot stand. Be sure to install an ultrasonic unit in every room of the home.
5. Set rat traps around the apartment, but make sure they are out of the reach of children and pets. Placing a trap in a cabinet where food is stored is a good way to catch rats--just make sure that cabinet door has a safety lock if you have young children in the home.
Tags: make sure, food stored, household pests, make sure that, , sure that, where food