Installing a chandelier in place of an old chandelier requires careful attention to detail. Because your new chandeliers could be heavier than the old one, it is essential that you perform these steps accurately.
Instructions
1. Determine the weight of your new chandelier. If it is close to the weight of your current chandelier, you do not have to replace the ceiling junction box. However, if the chandelier is your current one, purchase and install a junction box that will support the weight of your new chandelier.
2. Turn off the power to the circuit where the chandelier will be located. When you believe you have turned off the power, use a circuit tester to verify.
3. Remove the old chandelier. As you are performing this step, note how the fixture was installed and mark the wires with tape.
4. If you determined that a new junction box was necessary in step one, install it now.
5. Attach the new hardware from the chandelier to the mounting strap. If there is not a mounting strap, install one at this point. Either use one that came with the chandelier or purchase one.
6. Screw the mounting strap to the junction box.
7. Wire the new chandelier just as the chandelier was. Remember to connect like colors (ie black to black, white to white, etc). You will need to remove about a half inch of the insulation from each new wire before attaching it to the wire that was previously attached to the old chandelier.
8. Once you have twisted the wires from the new chandelier to the wires from the ceiling, twist on wire nuts in a clockwise direction.
9. The remainder of this procedure will be determined by the manufacturer's directions that accompanied the chandelier. Because all chandeliers are a little different, the process is individualized.
Tags: mounting strap, weight your, from chandelier, heavier than, power circuit
Exhaust fans in bathrooms expel wet air from the room, helping prevent mildew and moisture damage to your walls. The fans have been around long enough that you might find yourself having to replace one in your bathroom. Replacing an existing bathroom exhaust unit is a lot easier than installing one from scratch, and should take only an hour or so. Make sure to measure the opening of the old unit and don't get a new one that's smaller than that, because you'll be left with a gap in your ceiling. This plan assumes you can access the unit from the attic above the bathroom.
Instructions
1. Turn off all power to the room.
2. Set your ladder under the current fan unit. Remove the vent plate that's covering it. It will likely be held on by screws or by a wire clip. Take out the light bulb.
3. Go to the attic, above the bathroom, and locate the exhaust fan unit, which will be attached to a floor joist and facing down into the bathroom. Detach the electrical wires going to the unit by unscrewing the wire nuts. Detach the exhaust hose from the unit, loosening the screw on the metal band that's holding it there. Unscrew the screws holding the unit to the joist. Pull the unit away from the floor, exposing the square hole looking down into the bathroom.
4. Set your new unit in place in the same position as the old one. If the face of the new unit is bigger than the old one was, trace on the drywall around the perimeter of the face with your pencil, then use your jigsaw to widen the hole at the line. Affix the unit to the joist, screwing in the support brackets with the provided screws.
5. Reconnect the wiring as it was connected to the previous unit, using wire nuts to make the connections and wrapping each one in electrician's tape. Reconnect the exhaust hose to the unit, if possible. If the exhaust hose from the old unit doesn't fit on the new unit, use the new exhaust hose that came with the unit and string it out through the hole in the exterior wall where the previous hose was.
6. Turn the power back on. In the bathroom, install the light bulb, then put the new vent cover over the hole.
Tags: , above bathroom, attic above, attic , Bathroom Exhaust, Bathroom Exhaust Light, down into
Cleaning painted chrome is different than cleaning chrome-plated metal parts. Painted chrome may be applied on soft plastic parts. The techniques used on chromed metal parts may actually harm the softer plastic parts. Learn clean painted chrome and keep it safe from flaking and peeling.
Instructions
1. Rub the painted chrome area with bronze wool pads to remove heavy grime or buildup. The bronze material is softer than chrome and won't scratch it.
2. Wash the painted chrome with automotive car wash, water and a sponge. This cleans the chrome painted area and prepares it for chrome cleaner.
3. Apply a light coat of automotive chrome cleaner to the painted chrome part. Follow the directions on the package completely, but be careful to rub lightly.
4. Use a light coat of wax on the painted after all of the has been removed. The wax coat protects the painted chrome from future buildup.
Tags: painted chrome, chrome cleaner, chrome part, light coat, metal parts
A drop ceiling, also called a suspended ceiling, offers some advantages over plain drywall ceilings, including acoustic improvement. In a basement or similar utility area, where you may need to reach pipes or overhead wires, drop ceilings allow you to conceal the pieces while still allowing you access at a later time. You don't need to be an expert to install these ceilings, but you must take careful precautions during planning and installation to ensure that the ceiling hangs straight and lasts for years to come.
Instructions
1. Measure 4 inches down from the current ceiling and make a pencil mark at that point on one of the walls. Line up a level with this mark and trace a straight line along the 4-inch mark that spans the walls in the entire room.
2. Locate the studs in the wall with a stud finder and mark their location with pencil marks, drawn over the line you drew before. This indicates where you will attach the support structure for the drop ceiling. If you are installing the ceiling in a room with masonry walls, such as concrete or brick, there will be no studs to find.
3. Attach the perimeter support molding for the drop ceiling. Set each piece so that the top of the molding piece lines up with the perimeter line you drew. Attach the molding to each stud using 6d finishing nails and a hammer. For masonry walls, attach them with masonry screws through every screw hole in the molding.
4. Line the walls with the perimeter molding until it is completely outlined with the molding. For inside corners, put one piece of molding firmly against the corner, and set the next piece butted firmly against the first.
5. Miter the edges of the perimeter molding that will meet at outside corners. Use tin snips to cut the edges of the molding pieces at a 45-degree angle so that they meet around the outside corner. Continue to cut and fasten as necessary until all perimeter molding is installed.
6. Locate the ceiling joists in the room with a stud finder and mark their location with pencil or chalk lines. You will install the main support runners for the running perpendicular, or at right angles, to these joists.
7. Measure the length of the ceiling from one wall to the next, running perpendicular to the ceiling joists. Divide this number by the width of the panels to determine how many panels you can fit in the room. For example, if the ceiling is 8 feet wide (96 inches) and each panel is 5 inches wide, you can fit 19 panels, with one-fifth of a panel (or 1 inch) left over.
8. Measure out from one wall the distance leftover from your calculation. In the example, measure out 1 inch from the main wall. Snap a chalk line running perpendicular to the joists to mark this as a starting point.
9. Measure 4 feet out from the starting line and mark another perpendicular line. Continue measuring and marking until you have marked all of the lines; these represent the locations of the main support runners.
10. Install eyebolts along each of the lines of the support runners. Screw an eyebolt into every third ceiling joist along the line. These will be the supports to hold up the main runners.
11. Thread 16-gauge wire through each eyebolt so that you can twist it around itself at least three times and leave at least 2 to 3 inches hanging below. If in doubt, use more wire than you think you might need; you can always trim away excess later.
12. Attach a piece of string to the bottom of the perimeter molding under each support runner line. Stretch them across the room to the other side and attach it to the bottom of the molding there. This will help you ensure that the runners are lined up with the molding.
13. Line up the first main runner piece along the runner line so that it touches the string. Thread the excess 16-gauge wire through the open holes in the runner and twist it around itself at least three times to hold the runner up. Repeat with every hold along the main runner's body until it is held firmly in place by the wire.
14. Hang runners along the designated lines. Each should be supported by the eyebolts and 16-gauge wire you hung before. When you have to join runner pieces, attach them together with the slots and tabs that are built into the end of each piece. When you reach the end of the runner, trim off any excess with tin snips. Continue until all main runners are in place.
15. Install cross tees running perpendicular to the main runners and spaced every 2 feet apart. These pieces need no wires; instead, they snap into the main runners with slots and tabs. As you install these pieces, you will begin to make out the characteristic grid shape.
16. Attach pieces to connect the edges of the grid with the perimeter molding, cutting pieces of the cross tees to fit with tin snips. These pieces also attach together with slots and tabs. This completes the grid shape for your ceiling.
17.Slide the ceiling panels into place in each of the gaps in the grid. You will need to push the panels up at an angle to get them through the gaps, then allow them to drop straight down to be supported by the grid. Install all full pieces first.
18. Cut the panels to fit along the edges as necessary. Measure the gap you need to fill and add 3/8 inch so that the panel will be wide enough to sit on the grid's support flanges. Cut through the finished side of the panel with a sharp utility knife, using multiple shallow passes until you have cut completely through the panel. Install all cut panels as well until the ceiling is complete.
Tags: perimeter molding, main runners, running perpendicular, 16-gauge wire, drop ceiling, slots tabs, support runners
One way to add value to your home while updating its decor is by installing ceramic tiles on the ceiling of your bathroom, particularly in the shower area. Done properly, this will prevent moisture from damaging the original ceiling and provide a luxurious look. The average do-it-yourselfer can handle this project over the course of a few afternoons.
Instructions
1. Install a waterproof underlayment as your surface to adhere the tiles to. The underlayment, as opposed to standard drywall, keeps moisture from seeping behind and into the framework. Countersink the screws just below the surface to each corner and sides of the underlayment by following the manufacturer's instructions.
2. Draw a straight line across the middle of the width of the ceiling as a starting point. Laying tiles from the center and moving outward ensures each end will have the same size tiles that need to be cut.
3. Spread a small amount of thin-set mortar onto an area of the underlayment with a notched trowel. Apply only enough for a handful of tiles as the mortar can dry quickly and become brittle.
4. Apply a small amount of thin-set to the back of the ceramic tiles, then gently twist the tiles onto the underlayment. Separate the tiles with that are at least an eighth-inch wide.
5. Continue applying thin-set, tiles and plastic spacers until your are finished with your first row. Be aware that tiles on each end may need to be cut with a tile cutter to fit into place. You can rent a tile cutter from your local hardware store. Add a few strips of painter's tape across each row of tiles to help hold them in place.
6. Use a few pieces of scrap 2x4s to install a temporary "T" support. Lay one scrap piece flat along the row of . Prop a longer piece perpendicular to the floor to hold the small piece along the tiles in place. Use a few shims at the bottom to ensure a tight fit.
7. Repeat Steps 4-6 until your desired working area is coverered. Leave your "T" supports in place for at least 24 hours to allow the ceramic tiles to set.
8. Remove the supports, tape and plastic spacers and apply grout with a rubber float in between the nooks and crannies of each tile. Wipe away excess grout with a dampened sponge and clean water.
9. Seal the outermost edge of the tiles with a waterproof caulking. Also apply caulking with a caulking gun along the walls and in the corners. This prevents any moisture from seeping under the tiles.
Tags: ceramic tiles, moisture from, plastic spacers, , from seeping, grout with
Board and batten siding is a rough style of planking that is often applied to barns and shedlike structures. The alternating vertical layout of wide boards and narrow strips of batten, placed at every seam, can also be an attractive rustic style for a house or vacation cabin. If green (wood that is not completely dried) boards are used, it is best to wait until the wood is completely cured before caulking and applying the top coat.
Instructions
1. Check the type of wood (if you are painting the siding for the first time) on the side of the building. Some woods such as cedar, which are commonly used for board and batten siding, do not take well to paint because of the excess oil in the wood. In this case, it is best to forgo the paint and use an exterior stain or sealer instead. Cypress or redwood may cause similar problems.
2. Inspect the new wood to see whether it is and dry. Of course, if you are painting an older house this step is not necessary, but for new siding it is very important that the wood is completely dry. Green wood is often used to make board and batten. If the wood is still green, it is best to wait (this could take weeks or even months) until the wood is cured and dry.
3. Use the wire brush to rid the wood of any excess debris or algae growth. Clean the wood thoroughly with soap and water. Using a long-handled scrub brush to clean the wood is perfectly OK. Just make sure you rinse the area with a garden hose before you begin painting.
4. Check the boards and battens for tightness. Nail any boards that are loose. You will need 2 1/2-inch ringed stainless-steel nails for the boards and 3 1/2-inch stainless-steel ringed nails for the battens. Do not nail the battens to the boards, but instead drive the nails through the center of the batten, so that it passes between the two boards and finds the that are usually installed behind the boards and battens. The furring strips should run horizontally at intervals of 1 foot or more, so you will have to search for each furring strip. They should not be hard to find--just check the nailing pattern on the face of the boards and battens. Any nails that run through both the boards and battens will have to be removed with the pry bar and hammer. Likewise, look for any nail that does not reach the furring strips.
5. Spot prime any knots or oily areas with a brush and heavy-duty, exterior-grade, sealer-primer paint.
6. Apply the primer coat with a wide house-painting brush or a paint sprayer.
7. Caulk along the edge of the battens where necessary. Use an exterior grade silicone caulk.
8. Apply the top coat with a paint sprayer or large house-painting brush. Make sure you do not leave any drip marks because the board and batten style has a tendency to drip.
Base moulding ties the wall finish to the floor finish and hides any gaps in flooring materials along the wall. Moulding, also called baseboard, often has a profile machined into the face instead of being just flat. The profile is selected to match other trim items in the building like the door and window frames. Base moulding often needs to be matched to historically correct profiles when being replaced in renovation of historic buildings.
Medium Density Fiberboard
Medium density fiberboard (MDF) is made with wood fibers that have been glued under pressure and heat. The material is nearly perfect and no knots, cracks and other flaws hamper installation and add to waste. The material is also quite flexible, so if there are uneven surfaces along the base of the wall MDF will easily conform to the irregularities without breaking. MDF comes already primed and it readily accepts paint. MDF can also be machined into many different profiles and can be cut with a custom profile.
Wood
Many kinds of wood make good baseboard material, especially for baseboards that will be stained instead of painted. The wood grain and wood character is brought out with stain and is particularly sought after in interior designs that use many wood features like Craftsman style.
Hemlock, pine, cedar and oak are common woods used for base moulding. Pine is the most widely used and as a soft wood it is easy to work with. You can buy wood moulding with several different profiles and you can also have it cut with custom profiles. Lumber that is 3/4 of an inch thick is used in various widths for baseboard. Sometimes the contractor will have the lumber milled with a rounded top edge right at the job site. A router with the appropriate bit makes quick work of turning a plain piece of lumber into a base moulding with a rounded profile at its top.
Tile
Tile is most often used for base moulding in rooms that have tile floors. The tiles used are usually smaller versions of the floor tiles. You can order extra floor tiles and cut them into thirds to use them for baseboard tiles. This technique adds variety to the baseboard theme by using accent tiles near doorways or at regular intervals around the room.
Cove Base
This vinyl baseboard comes in 6-inch, 4-inch and 2 1/2-inch heights. Some manufacturers offer an amazing range of colors while others stick to the basics. This is a tough material that resists scuffing, scratching, gouging and many chemicals. You can buy this material with a paper backing that peels off to reveal adhesive, or you can buy the adhesive and apply it to the base before installing.
Tags: base moulding, , different profiles, floor tiles, machined into, moulding with, that have
White walls also serve as a clean canvas for any future bathroom makeovers and works with almost any style.
Black and white kids' bathrooms incorporate classic colors with patterns, prints and materials that work well for children. Paint the wall white as a clean, fresh canvas for the rest of the room that is primarily black and white. Avoid using black paint on walls. The black is weaved in from accessories and other parts of the house.
Decor
Add black and white framed photographs to the walls. Pictures of family vacations, holidays and school pictures, as well as candid shots of each kid individually, make ideal and easy-to-source art work. Another art idea is adding old black and white pictures from the front of popular children's magazines for a retro look. Classic images of children's favorites such as Mickey Mouse make ideal art work.
Textiles
A shower curtain, a rug and towels are necessary textiles for a child's bathroom. Kids tend to be messy bathers, so ensure the shower curtain protects your floor and that the rug also does its part in keeping kids safe from a slipping accident while also protecting your floor. A black and white zebra print mat is a playful addition to the design aspect of the space, while a white shower curtain with playful phrases works well too. Look for kid-focused shower curtains with phrases like, "Scrub in the Tub!"
Accesories
Accessorize your kids bathroom with black and white plastic polka dot toothbrush holders, soap dishes and towel racks. Plastic is an easy-to-clean material, making it kid-friendly. Brighten up the entirely black and white space with a bright yellow family of rubber ducks. The single pop of color will add an additional playful sense to the room.
Storage
Add a white wooden cabinet to the bathroom as a way of storing towels, toiletries and other items. This wooden cabinet will hide any messes while also serving as an item that can be reused in another space in the house when a child's styles change. Add black plastic knobs to the cabinet for a funky, kid-friendly look. For an added touch, consider adding polka dot decals or another black design to the cabinet. Use stick-on, higher end decals if you're considering reusing the cabinet in a few years; this will prevent a repainting DIY project.
Tags: black white, shower curtain, black white, make ideal, while also, wooden cabinet
This bathroom uses recessed lighting instead of regular light fixtures.
Bathrooms are one of the most important rooms in a home. Not only does it serve as a means to dispose of waste, but it also serves as quiet haven. Many people use bathrooms for quiet time, a place to get away, and a place to relax. To create the relaxing atmosphere needed for this to happen requires the right decor and the right lighting. This is why choosing the right lighting fixtures is so important.
Instructions
1. Decide what type and style of light fixture will be used in the bathroom.
2. Shut off the power to the bathroom light fixture circuit at the main power panel. Also turn off the light switch which controls the light fixture.
3. Identify how the light fixture is mounted to the wall. Most light fixtures in bathrooms are composed of two parts, the mounting bracket and the actual light fixture. These two piece are usually held together by one or two screws. These could be regular screws or allen head screws.
4. Remove the screws holding the light fixture and the mounting bracket together. Lower the light fixture to gain access to the electrical wiring. Make a note of how the old light fixture is connected in the electrical splices. Remove the plastic twist caps and separate the fixture wires from the supply wires. Set the old light fixture out of the way.
5. Remove the screws holding the old mounting bracket to the wall and remove the mounting bracket. Read and follow the manufacturer instructions for installing the new mounting bracket.
6. Connect the new light fixture electrical wires to the existing supply wires. It should be connected to the existing wires the same way the original light fixture was connected. Place new plastic twist caps on the splices
7. Secure the new light fixture to the new mounting bracket and turn the power back on.
Brass plaques remain a staple of metal working and have been produced for many decades. Photographing metal in general can be tricky, since many types of metal tend to reflect light and flashes. Brass in particular holds an unflattering reputation among many photographers because of both its reflective properties and because of the dull color on old brass that can make it hard to make out intricate plaque details from a photograph.
Instructions
1. Bring a full bag of equipment with you to the brass plaque being photographed. Make sure you bring the camera, a tripod, anti-glare spray, reflectors, and some ambient lights. You won't likely need all of these, but carrying all of this equipment will help to assure you of being prepared for every possible problem that comes with photographing a brass plaque.
2. Determine what your situation is for photographing the plaques. Are they inside or outside? Can you touch them or not? Photographing brass plaques works best without a flash and without too much lighting. By determining what factors you can control, you will know go about photographing the brass plaques.
3. Use reflectors or side lights, or both, if you need additional light; do not use a flash. Having is important, but you don't want the glare from light reflecting off of the brass. By using side light or using lights off of reflectors, you can get enough light to take a picture with a brass plaque. Mess around with any combination of these to get the right shots.
4. Spray anti-glare or anti-reflecting spray if you are allowed to touch the plaque in order to make the photography easier. Do whatever it takes to limit the amount of reflective light in the area.
5. Take multiple pictures. If you're using a digital camera, make sure to check each shot and keep a variety of pictures to see what comes out the best. Again, do not use flash otherwise there are likely to only be bright reflections in the picture.
6. Use side angles to see if you can get better light or set up with the bronze plaque photos.
Tags: brass plaque, brass plaques, enough light, Photographing brass, with brass, with brass plaque
A stone backsplash gives your kitchen a charming, rustic look.
Choosing a rustic design for your kitchen can give it a warm, inviting look that makes it an ideal spot for family and friends to gather. Natural materials are a significant feature in rustic design, so a combination of stone and copper surfaces is an ideal way to help you achieve this look. You can incorporate stone and copper into your kitchen in a variety of ways, but it's typically best to concentrate on two or three key areas so you don't overwhelm the space.
Stone Backsplash
A backsplash made of natural stone can instantly give your kitchen a rustic look. Choose from a variety of stone tiles to create a custom pattern for your backsplash that complements the rest of kitchen's design. Slate is an ideal backsplash material for a rustic kitchen because its textured surface gives it a rough, rugged appearance. For a unique twist, try a backsplash made from limestone, which contains shells and fossils that give it a rustic, textured feel. Honed granite and marble tiles are also attractive options because they are treated with heat to create a rougher texture than that of traditional polished granite and marble. When choosing colors for your backsplash, warm earth tones such as beige, tan, caramel and brown provide the most rustic look.
Copper Countertop
Copper countertops provide an ideal complement to a rustic stone backsplash. With its warm amber color, copper adds a cozy feeling to your kitchen and pairs well with wooden cabinets finished with a mid-toned stain. For the most rustic look, use hammered copper for your countertops. The textured look of the copper gives it a worn, weather-beaten look. In addition, your copper countertop may develop a brownish-green patina over time, which only increases its rugged charm.
Stone Flooring
When creating a rustic-style kitchen, you don't have to stop with stone tile on your walls. Stone flooring can provide a natural look that works well with copper accents. Match the tile to your backsplash to create a unified look for the room or use a different stone tile for your floor to add texture and dimension. Try pairing a slate backsplash with soapstone flooring for a unique, rustic look that sets off copper surfaces.
Copper Appliances
One of the main issues you can encounter when designing a rustic style kitchen is finding appliances that fit the decor. Choosing copper appliances is an ideal solution because they provide a warm look that complements stone, wood and other materials used in a country style kitchen. You can find refrigerators, ranges and dishwashers that have a copper finish to match the rest of your kitchen's decor and smaller copper appliances such as toasters and stand mixers that help finish off the room's look. If you prefer a subtle look, consider adding a copper sink basin for a warm touch.
Tags: , rustic look, look that, tile your, your backsplash
When you have two focal points in a room, this can create a challenge. You want to arrange your furniture in a way that focuses on both points while also making the room feel inviting and comfortable. There's no one right way to arrange furniture, so keep an open mind when placing pieces in the room. You can find ways that allow you to showcase your dramatic focal points, while maintaining balance and symmetry. Once you have a plan in mind, get ready to design a room that's sure to draw attention.
Instructions
Place Furniture in a Room With Two Focal Points
1. Identify your two focal points. Focal points may be long walls, large windows, entertainment centers, fireplaces or other dramatic pieces.
2. Arrange furniture in groups around both focal points.
3. Keep traffic paths clear of furniture. You need about two feet of space for paths that are heavily traveled.
4. Choose one or two big pieces for points, and accessorize with smaller pieces.
5. Place seats so that they face one another instead of arranging them side by side. This makes it easier for people to talk to each other when seated.
6. Angle furniture when possible instead of placing all pieces parallel to walls. This creates a warmer, more casual feel to the room.
7. Use area rugs to identify separate seating areas. If one area is larger than the other, place a bigger rug in that space. Keep area rugs similar in color and style, although they don't have to be identical.
Tags: focal points, area rugs, both focal, both focal points, Furniture Room, Furniture Room With, Place Furniture
Bathroom closets store a variety of practical items, from toiletries to towels. Because their important function often takes priority over visual appeal, they can easily become cluttered with empty bottles and piles of small grooming items if not regularly cleaned out. The key to decorating a bathroom closet is organization. If each item has its place, there may be leftover space for a decorative accessory or two, adding a touch of style to a setting of daily routine.
Instructions
1. Remove outdated or unnecessary items from the bathroom closet. Medications (which are better kept in a cooler, drier location), empty lotion bottles and old makeup products may be taking up much-needed space. Removing clutter sets the organization process in motion.
2. Take stock of what you have. If possible, categorize items into groups, such as hair accessories, linens and soaps. If more than one person uses the cabinet to secure items, decide if products will be separated according to owner or function.
3. Gather or purchase containers for storage and display. If the priority is visibility, choose clear containers so contents are obvious. Glass apothecary jars may be used to hold uniform items such as cotton balls and swabs. If the priority is a neat appearance, select opaque containers, such as baskets, colorful plastic boxes or metal can easily be pulled out to access products.
4. Label containers that are not transparent. For storage bins that don't include built-in labels or tags, choose decorative labels, such as the adhesive variety. Title the labels with a permanent marker or pen, as labels may need to withstand potential weathering in humid bathrooms.
5. Add a few decorative accessories. Antique glassware filled with soaps or seashells, small ceramic figurines and neatly rolled guest towels give a plush feel to a practical space. Patterned shelf liner (preferably waterproof) can also add underlying style to useful shelving.
A pot light, or can light as it is more commonly called, is an effective option for room lighting where there is a suspended ceiling. A suspended ceiling hides electrical wiring but still allows for the mounting of lights on the original surface.
Instructions
1. Hire a qualified electrician or a contractor with electrical expertise to run a BX feed or electric flex whip to the point where the can light will be installed. The electrical box should be connected to a switch control for the light.
2. Turn off the circuit breaker and light switch. Remove the ceiling tile where the pot light will be installed, along with a ceiling tile next to it.
3. Cut a circle in the tile where the pot light will be installed using a sharp utility knife. A circle template will be included with the pot light fixture. Cut from the face side of the tile so the surface is not chipped or marred. Reinstall the ceiling tile with the hole in it.
4. Feed the pre-wired BX whip down through the hole. Open the electric connection box on the can light, feed the BX whip into it and secure it with a connector as the box requires. Attach the color-coded wires with wire nuts and secure them with electrical tape.
5. Close the fixture box and slip the fixture up through the hole. Using the clips included with the fixture, spring-mount the fixture against the top of the ceiling tile.
6. From the space created by removing the adjacent tile, attach the BX whip with an approved strap to the ceiling or any framework above the suspended ceiling near the pot light. This will keep the whip from lying on the ceiling tiles and prevent the fixture from falling to the floor if it is ever knocked out of the tile.
7. Install the finish trim and bulb in the pot light from below. Reinstall the other ceiling tile and turn on the breaker and switch.
Tags: ceiling tile, light will, , where light, where light will, , fixture from
Adding the look of decorative ceiling tins to a home adds character and old world charm. Perfect for both traditional and Victorian homes, tin ceilings match up well with most colors and designs. There is a large assortment of colors and styles available on the market today. Many styles are reproductions of older designs from the turn of the century.
Sizes
Decorative ceiling tins come in 6-, 12- and 24-inch patterns to cover both small and large ceiling areas.
Location
This style of ceiling is popular in kitchens and foyers. Tall ceilings highlighted with tin and trimmed out with a crown molding add prestige and style to the top of the room.
Styles and Designs
Styles and designs to choose from include diamond, scroll, floral, fanned corners and square inlay. These styles are available in pieces that can be nailed to wood studs or placed in a recessed track.
Colors
While the ceilings are made from tin, they also come in faux colored versions such as copper-toned, green patina, antiqued, white and black.
Care
Caring for decorative ceiling tins involves applying a clear coat finish and cleaning with a mild soap and water. For other metals or painted tin, use a slightly damp cloth with non-abrasive cleaning aids.
Tags: ceiling tins, Decorative Ceiling, styles available
Transform a plain light fixture into a stylish chandelier with crystals and spray paint. Hanging crystals from the arms of the light fixture and from bobeches that you can add around the light bulbs will give your old fixture new life. Take it one step further and update the color of the fixture from brass to a sophisticated black or an old world oiled bronze. You can find a variety of metallic spray paints at your local discount store to help you make a quick transformation. Look for crystals at online wedding and chandelier parts suppliers.
Instructions
1. Order hanging crystal prisms and crystal strands to update your light fixture. You may have a crystal supplier locally, but still compare prices online to find the best deal. Crystal prisms come in an array of colors and sizes to suit any décor style. Crystal strands are available in 3-foot lengths that you can join together or take apart to fit your light fixture. Look for bobeches, glass trays that fit over the light sockets, for additional places to hang crystals. Each bobeche has six holes for clip on crystals.
2. Remove all the light bulbs from the light fixture. Spray paint the fixture in your choice of color. Apply the spray paint in light layers so the paint will not run. Follow the directions on the can for drying times. It will likely take more than one coat to cover the old finish. Let the paint dry.
3. Cut several 2-foot sections of 24-gauge craft wire and spray them the same color as the base of your light fixture. This wire is to make hooks for the hanging crystals.
4. Hang the light fixture in a doorway or from a low ceiling hook so that you can reach and work on all sides easily.
5. Cut the painted craft wire into 2-inch sections. Wrap a piece of wire around the arms of the light fixture wherever you plan to place a hanging crystal. Make the wire loose enough so that you can clip the hanger from the crystal between the wire and the light fixture.
6. Add the bobeches over the light sockets, and replace the light bulbs. Clip the crystal strands so that they drape between the arms and/or between the bobeches. Clip the crystal prisms onto the wires and the bobeches.
Tags: light fixture, light bulbs, your light, your light fixture, arms light, arms light fixture
Box-beam ceilings have faux beams built as three-sided boxes and attached over a cleat. Typically, the box-beam ceiling is installed to add rustic character to a family room. A box-beam ceiling is stained to bring a strong contrast to adjacent walls and ceilings. In some cases, the wood is distressed, or old wood is used to add to the character and charm of the installation. Usually a box-beam is significantly lighter than a solid wood beam would be spanning the same distance. This style of beam is also easier to install and much less expensive.
Instructions
1. Locate the ceiling joists in the room by using a tape measure and stud finder. Mark the location and direction of the joists with a pencil. If your joists are running in the same direction as your beams, lay out your beams to mount over joists. If your joists run perpendicular with your beams, you can lay out your beams in any arrangement you want.
2. Move a along the ceiling and mark the location of joists using a pencil. Mark all of the joists. Use painter's tape at your joist marks if your beams and joists are parallel. This will help you see the beam spacing and determine the layout. Snap chalk lines across the ceiling at the centerline of each parallel joist. For perpendicular layouts, snap your chalk lines for the location of your beams and then move your stud finder along the chalk line to mark the joist locations.
3. Measure the width of the ceiling. Cut 2-inch-by-4-inch boards to the length using a table saw. You may need more than one board for wider ceilings. Center the board on the chalk line. Screw through the board into the ceiling joist using long wood screws. Use two screws for every four feet of board. Continue across the full width of the ceiling.
4. Cut 1-inch-by-3-inch and 1-inch-by-6-inch boards the width of the ceiling. Position the smaller board flat on the worktable. Apply a bead of glue along the side of the board. Place the larger board on end aligning the length of the board. Nail through the side of the larger board, through the glue and into the edge of the smaller board. Nail every eight to 12 inches. Repeat for the second side of the smaller board.
5. Lift the three-sided wood box up to the ceiling over the cleat. Hold the wood box against the ceiling and cleat and screw through the box into the cleat 3/4-inch from the ceiling. It is sometimes helpful to use finish nails to hold the box in place before you screw. Repeat for each beam.
Tags: your beams, smaller board, stud finder, width ceiling, beams your
Perhaps you have one room in your house that doesn't get enough light. You may have tried using floor lamps, but they just don't put out enough light. Another option may be to install a new ceiling light fixture and switch to control it with. Al long as you have a nearby outlet, installing a new ceiling light and switch is not hard to do.
If you are lucky enough to have an attic above your ceiling, then almost all of the wiring can be installed there. If you don't have attic access, then you will have to make some cuts into your drywall and studs.
Instructions
1. Turn off power to the room you are working in. Use an electrical tester and go from outlet to outlet, testing each one to make sure all power is off. Put down some drop-clothes so the floor will stay clean.
Locate the nearest power source to where you will place your switch. This is usually a nearby outlet. Remove the outlet cover. Use your tester once more just to make sure no power is on. Remove the outlet using your screwdriver. Disconnect the black, white, and ground wire. Place the outlet to the side.
Pry the plastic outlet box away from the stud, using your small crowbar. You may have to use your large pry screwdriver to remove the ROMEX® staple that holds the ROMEX® wire to the stud. Pull the wiring out of the box and leave it hanging there.
2. Insert your fish-tape into the opening where your old outlet box was before. Feed it upward to see if you run into a fire-block stud that sometimes is placed in the wall, about half way up. If not, then you have a clear run to where you will install your switch. If you do counter a fire-block, then you will have to use your drywall saw and remove the drywall at the fire-block, exposing the stud. Use your small crowbar and remove the fire-block stud. You now have a clear path to run your ROMEX® cable.
3. Turn your remodelo switch box over, place it on the wall, and use it as a template by marking around it with a pencil. Cut out a hole for your switch box at 48" height off the ground to the bottom of the box.. The switch box will be installed directly above the outlet and box you just removed from before. Use your drywall saw to make the cut the same size as the box.
4. Attach your 12 gauge ROMEX® to your fish-tape that you ran earlier by using electrical tape. Feed the ROMEX® cable downward and pull it about down through the wall. Leave about 12" of ROMEX® sticking out of your outlet hole. Attach a ROMEX® staple to the ROMEX®, just above the hole for your new bow Grab your remodel box and push the new ROMEX® into the back of it. Now re-install the old ROMEX® wire that you had previously removed in the same manner. Install your remodel box by pushing it in and then turning the screws that will activate the anchor into the inside of the wall. Tighten it down.
5. Strip back the ROMEX® using your wire strippers. Grab your old outlet. Install black wires to the gold screws, white wires to the silver screws and the green wires to the ground screw. Install your outlet into your box and tighten it down by it's screws. Install your cover. Don't install your switch at this time. Leave the ROMEX® wire hanging out of your switch hole opening until you rum your ROMEX® to where you will mount your ceiling fixture.
6. Repeat the process of running the fish tape from the ceiling now, down to your light switch hole. You will need to use a stud finder and mark where all of your ceiling joists are. Remove the drywall at each joist as you come across it. Now use a chisel and hammer to notch out a 1/2" by 1/2" space in each floor joist to accommodate your ROMEX®. Notch out the corner studs too, where the ceiling and wall meet. Install your. Fishtape your ROMEX® down from the corner to the switch box, just like you did before. The continue the run acroos the ceiling, using the notches you made in the floor joists. Use ROMEX® staples at every floor joist. Install your box and switch box and hookup the wires just like mentioned above for the outlet.
7. Install your switch just like you did the old plug. Install your light fixture, following the provided instructions. Do this before you repair any drywall. Turn on your power and make sure your outlet, new switch and light fixture all work of. Remove the light fixture and prepare to do the drywall work. Wear gloves and eye protection.
Replace the drywall by attaching drywall screws at the floor joists. Mud the seams. Tape the joints. Sand the joints. Repaint the new drywall. Re-install the light fixture.
Tags: light fixture, your switch, your outlet, Install your, your ROMEX, just like, make sure
Finishing a cabinet with crown molding takes it from looking like a plain box to a detailed furniture look. It is an easy and inexpensive way to add value to even the cheapest cabinets. While many crown moldings can be purchased ready made, there are times when a custom look is called for. Building your own crown molding is a great way to make use of available materials, or add that high end custom touch. All you need is a little imagination and you can make your own custom crown molding.
Instructions
Designing the Crown
1. Sketch out the size and type of crown you want on your cabinets. Remember that scale matters a 3 by 3 crown molding is about as big as most kitchen cabinets need.
2. Build the crown base from ½ inch pine 3 inches wide. Work in 8 foot lengths. Rout any detail you like in the edge of each board before assembly. Be sure to clamp your work down and run the router clockwise -right to left- to avoid chipping. Nail two lengths of the pine together along their unrouted edges to form an L. The inside measurement will be 2 ½ inches on one side and 3 inches on the other.
3. Choose a 1 or 2 inch cove molding or base shoe with a detail you like. Run a bead of glue down the back on both outside edges and place it in the inside corner of the L. Nail it in place.
4. If you want more detail a small bead or rope molding can be added at the top or bottom of the L. Allow the glue to dry and fill all nail holes with wood putty, Sand down the putty by hand being careful not to flatten fragile details in the molding.
5. Stain or paint the molding to match the cabinet before installing.To install, simply cut to length with a miter saw, run a bead of construction adhesive down the back, and tack in place with a nail every foot or so.
One of the most difficult things to get right when laying baseboard trim is join "inside corners" (the four corners of a room). For protruding "outside corners," you can usually just miter your trim at 45 degrees to make it fit. But inside corners are usually not square, which means a simple miter won't give you a tight fit. Here, the solution is a coping cut, where trim on one side of the corner is installed flush to the end of the wall, and the other side is cut in profile so it fits around it.
Instructions
1. Measure and cut the end of the your first piece of baseboard trim on your miter saw, set at 90 degrees, so it's a straight cut across the width. Install the piece onto the wall with the trim nailer so the straight-cut end of it is sitting tightly against the adjacent wall.
2. Set the of trim on the saw platform in the way it will go against the wall. Swivel the blade of the miter saw to 45 degrees inward (toward the body of the trim). Make the cut. It should leave an exposed area of cut wood along the end of the board, at an angle, with a line on the surface of the wood that mimics the shape of the trim.
3. Hold the trim in one hand. With the other hand, set the blade of your coping saw near the end of the board, where the exposed wood meets the finish of the surface. Position the saw so that it's perpendicular to the piece.
4. Run the saw back and forth, following the shape of the exposed wood (which will be determined by the shape of the trim). Keep the saw perpendicular to the trim. Continue until the chunk of exposed wood falls away, leaving you with the shape of the miter cut, but no visible wood behind it as you look at the trim from the front. The cut should form a "hook" at the top of the trim, based on its shape.
5. Set the coped piece into the corner, setting the "hooked'' cut around the surface of the previously installed piece. It should fit right over it. Install the second piece using your trim nailer.
Tags: , corners usually, inside corners, , second piece, shape trim
Suspended ceilings are a popular choice for homeowners who are remodeling or adding living space. They're inexpensive, relatively easy to install and provide a clean, finished look. With a little bit of care and planning, you can install a suspended ceiling that will look like a pro put it up.
Instructions
1. Make careful measurements of the area where you'll be installing the suspended ceiling, then sketch out the area on a sheet of graph paper. Make a few copies of this so you can experiment with different tile layouts.
2. Decide whether you want to use 2-by-4 foot ceiling tiles or 2-by-2 foot tiles. Then sketch out the pattern for your ceiling tiles on the graph paper. If you'll be installing light fixtures, note where those are on your sketches.
3. Install the once you've settled on a design and decided on the height of the ceiling. These provide the outer framework of the grid that holds up the panels and hardware. Measure carefully before installing these, and use a level to ensure that your ceiling is level. Use proper hardware for the type of wall you're installing into.
4. Install and space the main tees, or crosspieces, once the wall angles are installed. These are suspended from the ceiling joists by wires. Drive nails or screws into the joists above the ceiling, then suspend wire from each nail or screw. Lay out your main tees to span the room, securing them with wire. Level the main tees and tighten the wire connections to each tee so that they are secure.
5. Lay out, space and secure the crosspieces. Once these are in place, simply slip in each ceiling tile. Carefully measure and cut ceiling tiles that are smaller than standard size.
Tags: ceiling tiles, main tees, ceiling then, graph paper, suspended ceiling, wall angles, your ceiling
More people are buying big screen TVs, but not everyone has a room to dedicate solely to television viewing. Living rooms, because of their size, often allow for placing furniture an appropriate distance from the big screen. Seating can be as close eight feet from the screen for true HDTV. But for other big screen TVs, seating should be at least as far away as three times the diagonal screen size.
Instructions
1. Make the big screen TV an important element in the room by featuring it prominently, such as over a fireplace or on a large, blank wall. Or place the TV in an armoire or entertainment center with doors, so it can be hidden when the room is used for entertaining.
2. Choose furniture that provides comfort while viewing but does not make the room seem like a movie theater. A long sofa facing the TV, side chairs on rotating bases or recliners will keep the feeling of a living room but still allow for relaxed viewing.
3. Place end tables within easy reach of each chair and a coffee table in front of the sofa. Select finishes that won't be damaged by soft drink cans, bowls of popcorn or other snacks.
4. Install surround-sound speakers in the room. Build these into the walls or hide them behind plants and furniture or in decorative cubes.
5. Install blackout curtains or heavy drapes that easily can be opened and closed. Blackout curtains can be attractive additions to the room if designed to look like drapes.
6. Use lighting that can be dimmed. Kids watching cartoons need some light in the room. But adults watching a movie might prefer more of a theater experience with little light in the room other than from the TV.
7. Design the rest of the room as you would a normal living room. One caveat: Carpeting is preferable in a TV room because it dampens ambient sounds and reduces echoes.
Tags: Design Living, Design Living Room, , light room, living room
Drywall jacks, or stands, are used to elevate drywall so it can be installed on the ceiling. The tools can be rented for a small fee from most hardware stores or you can build one from scrap materials. The basic drywall stand has an H-shaped top to set the drywall on, plus a long beam about 1 foot shorter than the height of the ceiling joists. It uses a standard car jack for lift.
Instructions
1. Cut a pair of 2-by-4 beams to 4 feet in length. Cut one 2-by-4 beam to 2 feet in length. Cut two beams to 12 inches long with 45-degree mitered ends, with the longer side being the 12 inches.
2. Assemble the two 4-foot-long beams and the one 2-foot-long beam into an H-pattern with the 4-inch sides of the beams standing vertically and the 2-inch edges sitting on the ground.
3. Drill two 3-inch wood screws through each outer, 4-foot piece and into the 2-foot-long beam connecting the ends.
4. Attach the H-joint--a piece of metal in the shape of an "H" that connects one 2-by-4 to another--to the center of the 2-foot beam, using 1.5-inch wood screws. Set the remaining 6-foot beam into the H-joint and attach the joint to the beam with 1.5-inch wood screws. Stand the 6-foot beam straight up from the H-structure, with the 4-by-2-inch end pressed against the 2-foot beam.
5. Attach the mitered beams to opposite sides of the vertical 6-foot beam so the mitered beam's angled ends are flush with the 2-foot beam on one end and the 6-foot beam on the other. Drive 3-inch wood screws through the mitered beams into the 6-foot and 2-foot wooden beams.
Whether you're adding a bathroom to your home or want to do some renovations on an existing home restroom, you'll want to ensure that the colors in the space are consistent with your design preferences. Choosing the right floor color for your bathroom space can completely change the look of the area, making your bathroom a bright and functional room or a section of the home that promotes relaxation.
Gray
Gray is a neutral color that will complement the bathroom well since it goes with a variety of color schemes, from light, pastel colors like yellow and pistachio green to deep hues like hunter green or burgundy. If you've decided to go with a gray bathroom floor, chances are you also have gray tile in the shower or accenting the mirror and sink areas. Gray bathroom floors will look modern and sleek in tile or rustic and timeless when made from stone materials.
Tan/Beige
Bathroom tile in a neutral shade like tan or beige matches with virtually any other decor you put in the space; materials like vinyl are ideal for floors in this color since the material is moisture resistant and flattering in a lighter shade. To go for a more sophisticated look, beige tile with streaks of white or darker brown hues will make the bathroom especially welcoming; dark-colored linens or shower curtains work well with this type of flooring. If the bathroom is connected to a bedroom that has tan carpet, bathroom floors in the same color scheme make the entire area appear larger.
Black
Black bathroom flooring is best reserved for the modern bathroom with lots of space as the color this part of your home seem especially comfortable and intimate. Black tile or granite flooring is particularly impressive if the restroom has a black and white theme and adds even more contrast to the space if you want to use a pop of color like red or purple among the black and white decor.
Multicolored
If you've selected an array of colors for the bathroom, a multicolored floor made in a mosaic theme or from tiles in different hues is best. A mosaic design in the center of the bathroom floor that fits the bathroom theme, such as a star or goldfish, is appealing for a children's bathroom. Simple themes that can work with various types of decor, like a series of squares in varying tile colors that match the linens, work well in the powder room or master bathroom.
Tags: bathroom floor, bathroom floors, , will make, work well
Door casing, also known as door trim, is available in a wide variety of styles and profiles. Trim can be made from either solid wood or MDF (medium density fiberboard)---solid wood trim is classified as stain-grade trim and MDF trim is classified as paint-grade trim. Because solid wood trim is made from one specific species of solid wood (hickory, oak, pine, alder, walnut) the wood can be stained and finished to match other stained hardwoods in the home (flooring, cabinetry). MDF trim is painted to match and compliment other painted surfaces in the home (walls, cabinetry).
Instructions
1. Determine which overall decorating style that will be used throughout the home, or in each room of the home. Popular trim styles include Traditional, Country, Modern, Contemporary, Arts and Crafts and Victorian, among others that are less popular. Door trim pieces can be combined to create a fully custom look and feel for each room of the home.
2. Establish a trim finish technique, whether a stained trim finish or a painted trim finish is desired. There are usually no benefits or drawbacks associated with either finish technique. Choose the best for the decorative effect you desire.
3. Try different casing accent pieces after the casing profile is settled upon. There are many different pre-made casing profiles available in millwork specialty stores and millwork departments in home improvement stores. Adding a corner block can add an interesting flare to the door casing.
4. Decide how you would like to cut the corners of the door casing. Popular techniques include mitered casing, butted casing with mitered backband, butted casing with reveal, and casing with corner blocks. If you will be installing the casing yourself, some corner-cutting methods are easier to complete than others---the easiest being the mitered casing method. Choose the method that you like the most with the casing profile that will be used.
5. If you look all over town for the perfect door casing style and come up with nothing, consider making your own door casing. Door casing can be made with a router, a router table and various router bits to create a one hundred percent custom door casing profile that you will be able to show off for years to come. Again, you can make door casing yourself out of solid wood or MDF stock.
River rock can be manufactured into beautiful tiles for your home.
The use of river rock is a great way to bring the outdoors into your home. For a rugged yet sophisticated look, these natural stones can be used throughout your home in the form of tile. These tiles work especially well in bathrooms with bronzed fixtures and walk-in rainfall showers. While the most common place for river rock tile in the bathroom is on the floor, it can also be used on the walls of your shower for a completely natural oasis.
Instructions
1. Purchase river rock tile from any home improvement store. Understand that natural stone products like river rock tile are often more expensive than standard types of tile. It will be heavier and harder, and will not hold heat. It will not absorb sound, but it will be long lasting. River rock stone will endure years of use, even with heavy foot traffic. If it does crack, grout can easily be applied to remedy the crack.
2. Use the river rock tile on the floors of your bathroom. To attach river rock tiles to the floor, follow manufacturer's instructions and apply a layer of thinset mortar to the floor. Arrange tiles in place and use a wet saw for cutting around corners and organic edges. After the tiles are set, apply grout between the tiles. Gently wipe away any excess grout with a damp rag or sponge. Clean the tiles as needed with warm water and soap.
3. Use the river rock tiles on the walls of your shower. Apply thinset mortar with a trowel to the bare walls of your shower and press tiles into place. Press 2-by-4 pieces of lumber against the tiles and wedge the other ends against the flooring for support while mortar is drying. Apply grout between tiles and wash off any excess before grout is completely dry.
Tags: , river rock, walls your, shower, your home, your shower
Repair your Jayco pop-up trailer before you take it out for the first camping trip of the year.
Jayco pop-up trailers are recreational camping trailers that are part tent and part hard body trailer. When extended, the fabric portion of the trailer takes up the top half to two-thirds of the overall height of the trailer. When not in use the trailer folds up and is stored in the bottom of the camper, making it more aerodynamic to tow behind your family car. You will need to patch the fabric from time to time, and you should maintain the cables to keep them working properly.
Instructions
1. Position your Jayco trailer on a flat piece of land and extend the stabilizing legs. Crawl into the trailer and inspect the main cable which runs under the trailer floor and is accessible through a service hatch located near the middle of the floor. Observe the cable for frayed portions or if it is rusted heavily.
2. Instruct a friend to start to crank up the top of the trailer. As the cable is being turned through the winch, continue to inspect it and apply a small bead of oil to the cable. The oil will improve the ease in which the cable will run across the pulleys and through the system.
3. Inspect the top canvas portion of the trailer looking for any tears or rips in the canvas. Cut away any loose or ragged edges with scissors and create a clean, smooth surface to apply a patch to.
4. Measure the size of the hole that needs to be patched. Cut a piece of canvas from the repair kit so it is 2 inches larger than the hole.
5. Apply an even layer of adhesive contained in the kit to the inside of the trailer tent wall and the patch. Place the patch over the hole and hold it in place for five to seven minutes. Repeat this same process on the outside of the trailer to seal the hole. Leave the top in the extended position overnight to allow the patch to dry.
Recessed lighting works well with a drop ceiling because it is easy to install and allows you to place lighting anywhere along the ceiling. Recessed lighting comes with adjustable arms attached to a light fixture. The arms adjust to fit between ceiling joists. You can then move the light fixture back and forth along the arms to position it over the opening you cut in the ceiling tile. Before you begin this project, determine which ceiling tiles will have recessed lighting installed above. Install the lighting and these tiles before installing the remaining ceiling tiles.
Instructions
1. Flip a ceiling tile upside down. Measure the tile's length and width. Divide each measurement in half and draw two light pencil lines over the tile at each measurement to form a plus sign. The point where the two lines meet is the center of the tile. Repeat with the remaining ceiling tiles which will have recessed lighting installed above.
2. Measure the recessed lighting fixture's diameter. Open a compass to half the diameter. Use the compass to trace a circle onto a piece of cardboard. Poke the compass' pointed end through the cardboard and wiggle it around a bit to make a hole. Cut out the circle with a scissors.
3. Place the cardboard circle on the back of a ceiling tile. Line up the hole you poked with the point where the two lines intersect. Trace around the cardboard circle with a pencil. Repeat with the other ceiling tiles. Cut out each traced circle with a utility knife.
4. Lift a recessed light fixture between the ceiling joists above one of the grid openings. Extend the 's arms to both sides to rest flat against each joist, with the tab hooked underneath the ceiling joists. Drive 1/2-inch wood screws through the holes in the tabs at the end of the fixture's arms to secure the fixture in place. Repeat with the remaining recessed lights.
5. Slide the light fixture back and forth along the adjustable arms until it is centered above the grid opening. Tighten the screws on either side of the fixture to hold it in place. Loosen the two screws inside the fixture. Raise or lower the fixture so it lines up with the ceiling grid. Tighten the screws. Repeat with the remaining recessed lights.
6. Back out the screw holding the junction box's cover in place on the recessed light and remove the cover. Feed a cable from the power source to the recessed light and into the junction box. Run a second cable from the next recessed light back to the first recessed light and insert the cable into the junction box.
7. Cut the cables with a wire cutters/strippers so about six inches extend into the junction box. Cut through the casing with a utility knife. Peel the casing off the wires. Cut both the casing and the paper insulation away from the wires. Strip 1/2 inch of casing off each wire.
8. Hold the two black wires from the cables together with the recessed light fixture's black wire. Twist a wire nut over them. Repeat with the white wires, then the green or bare copper wires.
9. Move to the next fixture. There will be one cable in the junction box which you pulled over in Step 6. Insert a second cable in the junction box and run it to a third recessed light. Wire the second recessed light the same way you wired the first light.
10. Continue to connect and wire each recessed light until you reach the final light. This light will have only two black wires, two white wires and two green or bare copper wires, since it is at the end of the lighting chain. Connect the power supply wire to the power source.
11. Center a underneath the grid opening. Angle the tile to lift it above the grid, then lower it in place. Place a recessed light cover over the hole in the ceiling tile. Insert the cover's two hooks into the light fixture. Hook them onto the two tabs located inside. Repeat with the remaining ceiling tiles.
If you're building your bathroom from the ground up, you may want one of the most attractive elements of the bathroom space to be your vanity. You can customize your cabinet by making it just the right size and shape for you and the architectural arrangement of your bathroom. Your work will make this area of your home just as welcoming and useful as you would like it to be.
Instructions
1. Consider the style of your overall bathroom. For a modern bathroom space, you can construct a vanity made from dark wood. Clean lines should be used in the vanity design and construction, especially if the bathroom is used by two people and the space needs to remain stylish but useful for both sexes. For an antique style bathroom vanity, choose items like distressed wood accented with metal drawer handles or mirror borders to help you accomplish the look you want. If you're creating a bathroom vanity for a child's bathroom, using primary colors for the wood or sturdy plastic elements to trim the cabinets or mirror space can make the bathroom fun and upbeat.
2. Think about the amount of time you'll spend at the vanity, and select mirrors and lighting based on this, along with the overall size of the bathroom. For floor-to-ceiling vanity cabinets, mirrors should be about half this length, so that that you can use the bottom portion of the vanity for drawers and storage and reserve the middle of the vanity for a chair or stool. If your bathroom is smaller or you want the vanity in the corner of the room, a slim, full-length mirror will complement the space, look great against any material you've chosen for the vanity itself, and make the bathroom space seem bigger. For a calm or relaxed environment, dim lighting is key, but you'll want to make the lights slightly brighter for the vanity, since you'll be using the space to apply makeup or arrange your hair or shave. Lights installed around the actual mirror will help you to see more clearly, and smaller lights in the drawers or shelves of the vanity will make it easier to find the things you need.
3. Factor in enough space for all your vanity uses. If you will also be using the bottom of the vanity to store towels and washcloths, have install extra shelves installed for this purpose. If you need more space for cosmetics and toiletries, work with a contractor to build a vanity with exceptionally long drawers so that you can fit all your items into the cabinet without taking up too much extra space. Give your contractor all the measurements you've taken for the bathroom area, and use pictures from home design magazines or websites for style inspiration or specifications.
Tags: bathroom space, your bathroom, bathroom vanity, make bathroom,
Acoustics are a very important part of the ambiance of any indoor environment. The design of acoustical ceiling tiles appropriately absorbs or reflects noise. For example, acoustical tiles in a doctor's office may keep speech private, while tiles in a school can make speech intelligible over a distance. If you need to paint your acoustical ceiling tiles, you should know the characteristics to look for in your paint.
Before Painting
Before you paint acoustical ceiling tile with any paint, carefully consider the possible impact paint can have. The texture and pores of acoustical provides them with the ability to modulate sound. When you change that texture and put paint on top of the tiles, the acoustical ceiling tiles may no longer work effectively, or at all. Always weigh the possible risk that the tiles will no longer work against your need to paint so you can decide if painting is worth the risk.
Quick Dry
Choose a paint that dries quickly when painting acoustical ceiling tiles. Acoustical ceiling tiles are very porous and uneven in texture. This causes paint to drip more than it would on a flat surface. As such, oil based paints can lead to a very messy situation since they dry more slowly than latex based paints. Paint that dries quickly will also save you maintenance time, as you generally need to apply two coats to acoustical tiles before the surface is ready to use.
Easy to Clean
Acoustical ceiling tiles can be hard to clean. Many pores exist in the surface where dirt and stains can accumulate. Choose a paint that you can easily clean to minimize cleaning issues. Latex paint is generally easier to clean than an oil based paint. You can wipe both latex and water clean by gently using a small amount of bleach on a cloth.
Matte Paint
Glossy paint tends to highlight the imperfections on a surface. As such, usually, you should only use glossy paint for flat surfaces such as walls. A matte, latex paint will not highlight the imperfections in the surface of the acoustical ceiling tile.
Porous Paint
Porosity is perhaps the most important characteristic to look for in paint for an acoustical tile. Most paints, whether latex or oil based, have strong bridging characteristics, which means that they leave a small amount of paint in the bumps between surfaces. As a result, problems can arise with acoustical because the left over paint will clog the pores of the tile and prevent the proper absorption of sound. The effectiveness of the acoustical tile is then limited because it cannot properly attenuate the sound in the room.
Tiling is a practical and versatile way of covering surfaces in a home.
Tiling is a long-established method of covering walls, floors, ceilings and roofs. Tiles are practical and versatile, and serve many purposes, including surface protection, waterproofing, thermal insulation, acoustic deadening and decoration. Tiles can contain man-made or natural materials, and in today's eco-friendly times, many types of tile have a high recycled content.
Ceramic Tiles
The primary ingredient for molded ceramic tiles is clay, mixed with any other required materials. Adding water to the dry clay combines the ingredients to form a mixture called slip. Gradually heating the slip prior to molding reduces its water content. A high-pressure molding press forms the essentially dry slip into a shaped tile body, ready for glazing. Glaze will give the tile its color and gloss finish after baking, or firing, in a kiln. Once cooled, tiles are ready for use.
Stone Tiles
Stone tiles make use of natural raw materials.
Blocks of natural rock such as marble, travertine or slate are the raw material for the manufacture of stone tiles. Modern high-speed saws make multiple cuts to split the rock into thin slabs that are ready for polishing to the desired finish. Slabs also undergo calibration during the polishing process to ensure uniform thickness throughout each piece. Stone fabricators then cut the polished slabs to the specified size with smaller saws. The completed tiles receive a final polish and are ready for packing.
Rubber Tiles
Compression molding is generally the preferred manufacturing process for rubber tiles, and the raw material is a suitably sized piece of uncured natural rubber or styrene-butadiene rubber. Initially, the mold cavity, with the uncured rubber in position, is clamped shut. The rubber takes the shape of the mold and, with the application of pressure and heat, undergoes a curing process, also called vulcanizing. The mold is then unclamped to release the finished tile.
Clay Tiles
Red clay roof tiles are a common sight.
An extruded clay tile contains only selected natural clays that give the tile specific properties, including its red color. Manufacturers mix dry clay with water and then age the resulting mix for several days to improve plasticity. A vacuum process removes air from the clay, and an extrusion machine forces it through a shaped die and cuts it to the required size. A progressive drying process is followed by glazing and firing at 1,050 degrees Celsius. Tiles are ready to ship once they have cooled.
Concrete Tiles
Cement is the primary material for molded concrete tiles. Mixed with sand, calcium carbonate and water, it forms a concrete mix suitable for molding. Manufacturers may add pigments to the mix at this stage to vary the color. The molds containing the wet mix complete a partial drying stage before the addition of an initial surface coating. Curing takes place in a curing chamber over a four-hour period and a separator then removes the raw tiles from the molds. Application of a colored coating and a polymeric sealant completes the process.
Tags: give tile, natural materials, practical versatile
Just because your room is small, this does not mean that it should feel crowded and closed in. By choosing paint color and the placement of color carefully, you can visually make your room appear much bigger, which will make it more livable for you. The following tips will help you in creating a bigger room by just painting the small room you already have.
Instructions
1. Choose your paint colors carefully. Certain colors are known to make your room look bigger. For example, cream colors and icy blues are bright and reflective and create an illusion that makes your room look bigger and brighter. Stay away from dark colors that absorb light and make the room seem smaller. Always choose lighter versions of your favorite colors, keeping in mind that bright rooms and soft tones make a room much bigger.
2. Consider painting your walls the same color as your furnishings, if your furnishing are light colors. This will give the effect of the large furniture items virtually disappearing into the walls and will create an open feeling in the room
3. Paint the mouldings of your room a lighter color than the walls. If you have dark wood moulding in your room, you will want to paint it white or a lighter color than your wall color. When mouldings are painted in light colors, the walls appear to recede, making the room appear much larger.
4. Paint a horizontal stripe around the room. Sometimes painting a bold detail on the walls will make the room seem bigger. A horizontal stripe, for instance, whether on one wall or all four, will cause the eye to see the room as wider than it actually is.
5. Extend your wall color onto the ceiling. If your room also has low ceilings, you can make the walls appear taller by extending wall paint onto the ceiling. Do not, however, paint the entire ceiling because that will make the room seem even shorter. Instead, paint one foot around the edge of the ceiling the same color as the wall, creating a border. Also, paint any border the same color. This will instantly make the walls appear taller.
Restaurant ceiling tiles are manufactured from the same materials as those installed in the home. As with any ceiling tile, restaurant ceiling tiles will become discolored over time, making the room as a whole seem drab. When the time comes for cleaning, which should be at least once a year, they can be washed using the same cleansers and equipment as residential ceiling tiles. It will take awhile due to the size of most restaurants involved, but once completed the tile will again have a positive impression on customers and employees alike
Instructions
Drop Ceiling or Suspended Ceiling Tiles
1. Cover the counters and appliances with a cloth to catch falling dirt.
2. Remove all the tiles from the ceiling grid.
3. Vacuum hard to reach surfaces where dirt tends to build up like corners, vents and light fixtures, using a vacuum cleaner equipped with a dusting attachment.
4. Using a wet sweeper, clean the grid with a mild mixture of 1 part dishwashing liquid and 10 parts water. Make sure the wet sweeper is only damp to avoid drips, or leaving water on grid ledges.
5. Dry the ceiling grid with a clean lint-free cloth.
6. Wash the tiles with the dishwashing liquid mixture. If the tiles are especially dirty or greasy from kitchen ceilings, use a mixture consisting half of Mean Green cleanser and half water. Rinse cleaned tiles with running water.
7. Dry the tiles and place them back into the ceiling grid.
Permanent Ceiling tiles
8. Remove any dust or loose dirt from the ceiling tiles using a static duster.
9. Vacuum the hard-to-reach surfaces.
10. Use a wet sweeper with the mild dishwashing liquid solution directly on the ceiling tiles. If the cleanser does not adequately clean the tiles, use the Mean Green cleanser solution. The sweeper should only be slightly damp with no dripping water. Wash each tile and then rinse using clean water.