When rats begin to infest a home, they typically nest in areas that don't regularly see foot traffic. Rats prefer basements, attics and ceiling voids to nest and breed. Because a home is a great food source and provides adequate shelter, other rats are encouraged to nest, being attracted by both the food supply and the other rats. Once a problem is detected, removing the droppings from the ceiling void is integral to overall control.
Instructions
1. Set several flea foggers off inside the ceiling void to kill any insects that may have been attracted to both the food particles and rat droppings. Let the area vent as long as recommended by the manufacturer before proceeding.
2. Combine one part bleach with nine parts water in a sprayer. Put on old clothing, dust mask, goggles and gloves. Liberally spray the bleach solution onto the rat droppings and onto any nests.
3. Pick up the rat droppings and nests with a garden trowel. Place into trash bags. Seal the bags and discard them. Vacuum up any droppings that may be unreachable. Empty the vacuum dirt reservoir into a trash bag and dispose of it.
4. Spray household disinfectant all over the ceiling void after picking up or vacuuming up the rat droppings and nests. This will complete the cleaning and finally disinfect the area.
5. Cover any openings where rats may enter with wire mesh. Cut to fit with aluminum snips, then fasten to block the opening with a screw gun and screws.
Tags: attracted both, attracted both food, both food, ceiling void, droppings nests, into trash
Your bathroom is something you see every day, and you want tiles that you like. When picking the design and color of the tiles, you need to first determine the style of your bathroom. An upscale spa bathroom for example, requires a different layout than a farmhouse style bathroom. You should also look at the cleaning of the tiles as lighter tiles show more dirt than darker tiles. Tile design and the color of the tiles can create a dramatic look or a more muted feel.
Neutral Shades
Shades of tan, khaki, brown, white and cream are neutral shades because these tones work with a variety of other colors. Shades of grey and brown are appropriate for a farmhouse or old-fashioned style home, especially when used in granite, which has an antique feel. The advantage to using neutral tile shades is that the tiles continue to work in the bathroom even when you change your decorations. You won't have to worry about replacing the tiles because the new fixtures or lighting doesn't match the tile colors. Layouts or the design of the tiles are quite varied and include hexagonal tiles, tiles arranged on a diagonal and even a mixture of larger and smaller tiles in one space.
Bright and Bold
Brightly colored tiles work well in a small bathroom because the bright colors help open up the space and make the bathroom look and feel bigger. Brighter shades include both pale and dark shades, such as forest green, lemon yellow, baby blue and pale pink. The key is to mix and match different shades in the same color family to avoid overwhelming the eyes with too much of the same shade. For example, mix different shades of green, including forest green, kelly green and lime green together in the space. Use smaller tiles of 1 to 2 inches wide to keep the colors from taking over the bathroom.
A Dramatic Impression
Black and white is a classic color combination that serves a bathroom well, but black also works as a neutral shade when paired with other lighter colors. Use the black tiles to create a border or frame around patches of smaller and lighter colors in the room. Black and white tiles arranged diagonally around the room create a chair rail effect that breaks up a single color of tile in the bathroom. You can even use black tiles to highlight a specific feature in the room, such as creating a frame around a Jacuzzi bathtub.
Chandeliers can be classic or modern style fixtures.
Hanging a chandelier in your home can add class to the look of your dining room, entryway, staircase, or any other area of your home. While there is no governing set of rules for hanging a chandelier in a private home, by following simple guidelines and the best practices you can hang the light fixture safely and securely in a manner that you can enjoy for years to come.
Placement
Be sure to select a chandelier that fits in the area you want to light without obstructing the view or foot traffic pathways. For standard height (8 feet tall) ceilings, this generally means hanging the chandelier over a table. If your chandelier has adjustable length hanging hardware, make sure the bottom is approximately 30 to 36 inches above the table surface to offer the best lighting without obstructing the views across the table. For chandeliers that are not above tables, make sure the bottom of the chandelier is at least 6 feet above the floor (6 feet and 6 inches is better) to keep it clear of people's heads as they walk under it, protecting both your guests and your light fixture.
Preparation
Chandeliers are generally heavy, often more so than standard ceiling fixtures. Because of this, you need to make sure the weight of the chandelier is safely supported while you are installing it. You will also want to avoid attempting to climb up and down a ladder with it in your hands, as the weight may throw you off-balance. For standard 8-foot ceilings that allow you to use a regular A-frame ladder, have a partner hold the chandelier and necessary tools using a separate ladder to hand items to you if they cannot be handed up from the floor; never allow a helper to climb up on the ladder with you unless you are using a ladder specifically constructed for two-person use. For taller ceilings, use a scaffold or lift that is large enough for you to safely set the chandelier and all other parts down on the platform with you. For additional safety, tie the chandelier to the lift with a medium-weight cotton line so it will not accidentally get kicked off while you are working. Make sure no one stands underneath you while you work.
Installation Safety
Always turn off the power at the circuit breaker before installing your chandelier. Just turning it off at the light switch is not considered safe, partly because someone might walk by and accidentally bump the switch on or turn it on without realizing that you are working with the wires, resulting in electrocution. There is also the chance that a small amount of voltage, known as "trickle voltage," may still seep through the wires, even with the switch turned off. While this voltage itself isn't at a dangerous level, feeling the buzz of voltage on your fingers is enough to startle most people, which can result in a fall off the ladder or scaffolding you are using to reach the ceiling. Such a fall can cause serious injury as well as damaging or destroying the chandelier if it falls with you. The glass components on many chandeliers make this a particularly dangerous situation, as they can shatter, causing additional injuries.
Tags: make sure, , ladder with, light fixture, make sure bottom, sure bottom
Wallpaper does not stick well to wood surfaces and joint compound often used to fill the paneling's grooves before papering doesn't bond well to wood either. Tearing out paneling is hard on you and destructive to the wall. Successfully wallpapering over paneling requires a different barrier between the paneling and the paper. This extra step ensures the wallpaper will last and look good as long as you want it to.
Instructions
1. Measure the paneled wall and purchase enough 1/4 inch or 3/8 inch to cover the paneling. Wall board, like paneling, comes in 4-by-8 foot sheets.
2. Secure the wall board to the wall with the dry wall screws and drill. Use the utility knife to cut the wall board when necessary. Make the cuts as straight as you can using the edge of the metal construction ruler as a guide. Hang the wall board with as thin a seam as possible between the boards.
3. Apply a generous amount of joint compound to the seams with the putty knife between the boards and press the joint tape into the compound. Go back over the taped seams with more until the tape is no longer visible and the wall appears seamless. Let the compound dry.
4. Sand the hardened joint compound with the mesh-like joint compound sanding strips until the wall is smooth and seamless. This gives the wallpaper a smooth surface to adhere to. Any bumps or peaks left in the hardened dry wall show through the wallpaper even if it's vinyl wallpaper, no matter how heavy the design is that is printed on it.
5. Dust the wall with a clean cloth to remove excess joint compound dust that could interfere with the bond between the wall and the wallpaper glue.
6. Hang the wallpaper according to manufacturer's instructions.
The false aralia (Dizygotheca elegantissima) is a member of the Araliaceae family. This tropical plant is relatively an easy plant to grow, but it does need proper care. Older leaves will fall from the plants, but if the leaves that are dropping from the plant are not older ones, it could be one or more problems with the plant's care or environment.
New Location
Moving a false aralia to a new location can shock the plant. When this happens, the plant can suffer . This plant is sensitive to its surroundings. If you move the plant from the indirect lighting from a western window to an eastern window, the amount of light and the heat intensity is different. If you must move a plant, do it gradually to prevent extensive leaf drop. If you purchase a plant at a nursery, expect to have some leaf drop until the plant becomes established in its new environment.
Temperature and Humidity
Plants like high humidity, but will tolerate low humidity that you generally find in homes and offices. If the plant is dropping leaves, it could be that the humidity is too low. Place a drainage tray filled with gravel underneath the container to catch excess water runoff after each watering to provide humidity around the false aralia. Plants will drop leaves when the temperature is less than 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Keep the plants away from heating and cooling vents or doors that let in cold drafts.
Watering
Too much water or too little water will cause the plant to suffer from leaf drop. The top 2 or 3 inches of soil should be dry before watering the plant. If the soil stays wet all the time, the plant will suffer and lose leaves. If you allow the soil to dry out and stay dry for days without water, the plant will drop its leaves.
Salt
False aralia plants have a poor tolerance to salt. Excess salt can come from overfertilizing the plant or from watering the plant with soft water. If the plant suffers from leaf drop and other possibilities are ruled out, check the top of the soil for a crusty white substance, which will be a salt buildup. Repot the plant and reduce the fertilizing schedule in half.
Tags: leaf drop, from leaf, from leaf drop, drop leaves, false aralia,
You can point track lights in different directions as needed.
Track lighting consists of several lights tied into a single circuit, with the light fixtures in a straight line attached to a track. Track lighting is often found in a large room, such as a living room, because it can provide more light that a single light fixture can. A do-it-yourself homeowner with intermediate skills can install the track lighting himself, but anyone who's not comfortable doing electrical work should hire help.
Instructions
1. Switch off power to the existing ceiling fixture at your home's main electrical box. Go into the living room and test the circuit by turning the light switch on and off.
2. Unscrew the existing light fixture and slowly lower it from the ceiling. If the fixture is heavy, get some assistance with this. Untwist the plastic connector caps that attach the wires leading from the electrical box to the wires leading from the light fixture and test bare wire with a voltage tester to make sure that the power is off. Untwist the wires.
3. Attach the wire-in connector to the wires the ceiling. The wire-in connector plugs into the track and provides electricity for the lights. Connect the black wire to the black wire and the white wire to the white wire, twisting them together with the plastic connector caps.
4. Attach the green or bare grounding wire to the if the plate is metal; otherwise, attach it to the junction box in the ceiling.
5. Slide the wire-in connector through the hole in the mounting plate and screw the mounting plate to the ceiling.
6. Locate and mark the ceiling joists with a stud finder.
7. Draw a faint line on the ceiling to mark the path of the track. Place it over the mounting plate and keep it parallel to the nearest wall.
8. Hold the track against the ceiling over the mounting plate with the help of an assistant and screw the track to the mounting plate. Drive screws through the track and into the ceiling joists to secure the track to the ceiling.
9. Connect the to the end of the track, following the manufacturer's instructions for the model you purchased. Place the cover over the connector.
10. Mount the light fixtures, following the manufacturer's instructions for the model you purchased.
Tags: mounting plate, wire-in connector, leading from, light fixture, wires leading
Bathrooms are usually the most humid areas in a house. Although paint provides a durable finish on many walls and ceilings, the damp climate in a bathroom can cause paint to bubble and peel. Ceramic tile provides a durable alternative to a painted ceiling above a shower stall. Proper preparation is a necessary factor in making the tiles adhere to the ceiling.
Instructions
1. Scrape off loosened, chipped or peeling paint with a paint scraper. Hold the edge of the scraper at about a 20-degree angle with the surface of your ceiling to avoid gouging the underlying plasterboard or sheetrock. Wipe the ceiling with a dry rag to remove particles of scraped paint.
2. Sand the edges of the scraped surfaces. Use a medium-grade sandpaper to smooth down the rough edges. Wipe away the paint dust with your rag and sand a second time, using a fine-grade sandpaper to blend the edges even with the surrounding surface.
3. Wash the ceiling with a cleaning solution that contains TSP, trisodium phosphate. Scrub the solution into your ceiling with a scrub brush. Rinse off the residue using clear water. Let the ceiling dry completely.
4. Mark your ceiling even with the edge of your shower stall using a chalk line. This line provides a guide for your first strip of tiles. Starting at the outer front corner of your marked ceiling, apply a 1/8-inch layer of tile adhesive, covering an area about 2 feet by 3 feet. Use the flat side of your trowel to apply the layer, then flip your trowel over to make grooves in the adhesive with the notched edge. Apply your first tile in the corner. Press the tile firmly in place. Set tile spacers on each side of your set tile. Place a tile on each side of your first tile, snug against the spacers. Continue in this manner, working your way across the applied adhesive. When you reach the edges of the adhesive, apply another section and continue tiling. Use a tile cutter to cut the tiles to fit along the last row. Allow your adhesive to dry for about 24 hours.
5. Mix your grout compound with warm water, according to the package instructions. Apply the grout with a rubber grout float. This tool resembles a putty knife, but is soft and pliable, allowing you to do each joint quickly and easily. Wipe off the excess grout with a damp sponge. Let the grout dry for two to three days before using your shower.
Tags: ceiling with, side your, your ceiling, your first, each side, each side your
If you're refinishing your basement into a living space, one issue you may have to deal with is what to do with those bare floor joists above your head. Installing a wood ceiling there is much easier than drywalling, a lot less messy, and has a rec-room look that may fit in with the theme you're looking for in that basement. As with all wood building materials, let the ceiling planks acclimate to the room for a week or more before you install them.
Instructions
1. Measure the open from the wall where you are going to start the courses of ceiling boards. (Note: You must start along a wall that runs perpendicular to the joists.) Transfer the measurement to a ceiling board.
2. Use your miter saw to cut the plank to that length, at 90 degrees (straight across).
3. Hold the board to the basement ceiling, setting the grooved side toward the wall and sitting half an inch out from it. Secure the board to the joists by shooting the nails from your nail gun straight up through board. Put two nails at each point where the board crosses a joist.
4. Measure and cut the next ceiling board to size. Lock it in along the side of the first board. Secure it by shooting a nail through the side of the board, at an inward angle, at each point where it crosses a joist.
5. Continue cutting and hanging the boards, working out across the . Use a table saw to length-cut the last board so it fits along the ending wall with a half-inch gap there. Your ceiling trim will hide the gaps.
Tags: basement ceiling, ceiling board, crosses joist, each point, each point where
Interior solid wood paneling comes in many styles and colors.
Solid wood paneling for interior walls comes in many varieties of woods and stains. Many home decorators choose solid wood paneling because of its durability and resistance to everyday wear and tear. Create custom looks within the home by installing solid wood paneling, which can give the room a warm glow. The hardest part of this project will be choosing which style of paneling to install.
Instructions
1. Lay the solid wood paneling in the room of installation for at least 48 hours before you begin. This allows the wood to acclimate to the room's constantly changing humidity and moisture levels, as well as any fluctuating temperatures.
2. Pry off all baseboards, moldings and door trim, using a pry bar. Apply gentle pressure to the trim pieces so they do not crack or break. Set all trim pieces aside for reinstallation later.
3. Glide a stud finder over the width of the wall to find all the studs located behind the sheetrock. Use a pencil to mark the location of the nearest stud to the corner of wall. Measure 48 inches away from this first stud and mark the next stud. Place a mark on the remaining studs every 48 inches apart. Use a tape measure to find the width from the starting corner of the wall to the first marked stud.
4. Cut the solid wood paneling pieces so they are 1/4 inch shorter than the ceiling height. Use a hand crosscut saw to cut the paneling pieces with the finished side facing up toward you. Sawing from the finished side will prevent ragged edges.
5. Place the first wood paneling piece up against the wall from the corner edge to the first marked stud. The wood paneling piece must have exact measurements correct so that both edges are centered over the studs.
6. Hammer finishing nails, specified by the wood paneling manufacturer, every 6 inches into the paneling along the edges, starting from one edge and working your way to the other edge. Hammer more finishing nails every 8 to 12 inches along each stud throughout the entire wood panel, using a rubber hammer to minimize damage.
7. Measure the width from the first installed panel's outer edge and coming out 48 inches for the next panel, using a tape measure. Cut each wood panel to size with a hand crosscut saw, and install using the same method as the first wood panel.
8. Apply bright-colored chalk around the edges of any outlet cover and press the corresponding wood panel, for that wall, against it. Drill a small hole in each chalk corner with a drill bit. Use the keyhole saw to cut out the outlet hole outline from the ---finished side facing up.
9. Hit the nails below the surface of the wood with a nail set. Use colored putty, similar in color to the wood, to fill in the countersunk nail holes.
10. Reinstall all moldings and baseboards in their same location. Use the nail set to countersink all finishing nails into the moldings and baseboards. Fill the nail holes in with corresponding .
A dramatic chandelier can complement a cathedral ceiling.
Cathedral ceilings can create a decorating challenge as you try to find decor and furniture that makes the most of the room's height without seeming small in comparison. As you plan a decor scheme in your living room, choose elements that will work with the height of the ceilings and create an open, pulled-together space.
Lighting
Draw attention to the height of your ceilings and eliminate shadowy corners with a mix of lighting elements. Use a dramatic chandelier to complement the design of the room: consider a contemporary, artistic design in a modern home or a rustic wood chandelier in a cabin-style living room. You can also use directional lights pointed upward to highlight architectural elements of the ceiling such as beams or corners. Include lighting that illuminates the lower part of the room with track lights, lamps and recessed lights.
Ceiling Decor
Make the ceiling the focal point of your living room by decorating it in dramatic fashion. Add large wooden beams in a geometric pattern, for example, or cover the ceiling with decorative tiles. If your ceiling is relatively plain, add molding painted the same color to create faux architectural details; the levels will create depth and visual interest with the play of the light. For a more modern look, cut a shape like a starburst or a floral shape out of wood and attach it to the ceiling around the base of a hanging light.
Vertical Decoration
In a room with cathedral ceilings, you can use more of the vertical wall to avoid too much open space; in doing so, you will draw the eye up and emphasize the height of the room. Look for decor elements like tall bookcases, oversized pieces of art, or stacked items like a tall painting on top of a fireplace. If your windows look small in the room, create window treatments that start one or two foot higher to make the window look more proportionate.
Accent Wall
To give your living room a design pop, use one of the tallest walls as an accent wall. Paint it a bold color, for example, or hire an artist to paint a mural in the highest section. You can also turn the wall into a focal point by adding wooden stripping painted a contrasting color. If you have the funds, choose the tallest exterior wall and install windows from floor to ceiling to flood the space with light and make the most of the view.
Tags: living room, your living, your living room, , chandelier complement
Vaulted ceilings can be seen in all types of structures, from modern homes to ancient churches.
Vaulted ceilings, which are created by a series of arches, make rooms feel grander and more spacious. The vaulted ceiling, which has been used since the discovery of the basic arch in ancient Egypt, is in modern architecture to draw more light into a room and make the space appear more open. The first vaulted ceilings were barrel vaults, a style that is still used today, but over time, architects invented and perfected different types of vaulted ceilings.
Barrel Vault
The first type of vault used in architecture is the simplest form of vaulted ceiling. A barrel vault is formed by a continuous stretch of arches that are built one after the other to cover a three-dimensional space. A barrel vault must be supported by heavy walls with limited openings, meaning that a room built with a barrel-vaulted ceiling cannot sustain large or frequent windows.
Groin Vault
A groin vault is formed when two barrel vaults intersect at a right angle. The groin vault, which was discovered by Roman architects, allowed for new innovations in architecture because the is supported by four pillars instead of only two. Because of this, the walls that support a groin vault do not need to be as large and only need to be buttressed where the vault is supported, allowing for more windows.
Rib Vault
Made from the intersection of two or three is the rib vault. The supporting arches of rib vaults are often carved or decorated to make them more noticeable. The rib vault functions much in the same way as the groin vault, distributing the weight of the ceiling into four corners of support, which allows for large windows closer to the ceiling.
Modern Materials
The innovation of modern, lightweight building materials has allowed architects to use the classic vault structure in new ways. With new, lighter materials, the weight of the vault has become less of a problem, allowing designers to revert to the simple barrel vault. In many modern buildings, vaulted ceilings are used for design instead of for structural purposes.
Tags: barrel vault, barrel vaults, groin vault, vaulted ceilings, groin vault, still used, vault formed
Bleaching wood beams can alter the color of the wood to give it a lighter appearance. A mild application of bleach can also spot treat stubborn stains or mold. Whatever your goal, you must consider some important information before applying bleach to your wood beams or any other household surface. Bleach is extremely corrosive, and you should not treat it casually. If done correctly, though, you can bleach your beams to perfection.
Instructions
1. Mix five parts water and one part bleach. The U.S. Forest Products Laboratory recommends this concentration (at most) to avoid damaging wood surfaces. If you use bleach too highly concentrated, it can permanently discolor or even damage your wood.
2. Sponge the bleach solution onto your wood beam and scrub the wood with either your sponge or a separate scrubbing brush. For mold and mildew, use a brush to give yourself added leverage, since bleach does not easily penetrate porous materials on its own. Wait about 15 minutes for the bleach to work.
3. Add about 1 teaspoon of powdered detergent to your bleach solution if the diluted bleach alone fails to remove the dirt or mold from your wood beam. Do not use liquid detergent, as it may react negatively with the bleach and create toxic fumes. Scrub your wood beam a second time.
4. Rinse your wood beam with clean water applied to a sponge. The less liquid you use, the easier it will be to dry the wood beam. Wring out your sponge before rinsing. Never scrub wood with a dripping sponge, since saturating wood may lead to new or increased mold growth.
5. Dry your wood beam. Assuming you limited your use of moisture, you should have no problem drying the wood with a nice flow of air circulation. For instance, point one or two fans at the beam until the wood dries. Alternately, use a dehumidifier or turn on your central heater.
Tags: your wood, wood beam, your wood beam, wood with, bleach solution,
Tall ceilings are a hallmark of Old World styling and soaring modern home design, but they can present a thorny challenge when it comes to dressing your windows. If the windows are floor to ceiling, the challenge is choosing window coverings that accent them with style. If they're normal-sized windows, there's all that extra wall space above them to fill. In either case, the challenge presents an opportunity to accent the graceful sweep of tall ceilings with window are designed for the space.
Cornice Window Treatments
A decorative cornice can turn a lackluster space above the window into an eye-catching accent that helps define the style of a room. They are generally mounted on the wall several inches above the window frame and cover the frame and the top of the window. You can buy ready-to-hang cornices at a home improvement store or create your own from plywood or foam-core board.
Cornices can be used in many ways in a room with tall ceilings. A single cornice can unite two or more windows into one design element, for example. A wood cornice stained to match the rest of the trim in the room can "anchor" the ceiling to the room. Upholstered and padded cornices add substance to window treatments, making even the simplest sheers or plain drapes shine. Hung above blinds or Roman shades, a mock cornice of shirred or stretched fabric dresses up plain window coverings and adds flair to the room.
Swags and Valances
Tall ceilings can seem to stretch up into the distance. Top treatments for windows in rooms with high ceilings serve a double purpose--they do decorate the window, of course, but they also help bridge the area between the tops of window frames and the ceiling above. Although cornices work nicely in many rooms, when there is crown molding above the windows, a cornice can be top-heavy.
One elegant solution is a swag hung high above the window. Like cornices, deep swags can bridge the gap between window frame and ceiling, tying the elements together and giving the ceiling an anchor to the room. Balloon valances and swags can be paired with elaborate side draperies or hung over simple sheers, blinds or shutters.
Hang an Awning
One way to balance high ceilings in a room is to add depth to the window treatments. Play with a window design element that is most often seen outside the home--the awning. Awnings, which are designed to shade windows by extending outward from the wall, are best used in spacious rooms that need window treatments that fit their scale.
Create a simple awning for a high-ceilinged room by mounting a cafe rod just below the ceiling. Hang a curtain rod with a 6-inch return below the top of the window frame, and stretch a curtain between the two. Add scalloped trim to the bottom edge for a casual, breezy look.
You must take into account the size of the ceiling tiles when planning for a .
A false or suspended ceiling provides a way to obscure plumbing pipes while still allowing you free access to them. Unlike a drywall ceiling, a false ceiling allows you to remove the tiles at any time so you can perform repairs or examine the pipes. Before you install the false ceiling, you need to draw the dimensions of the room and plan position the ceiling's tiles and rails in the room. A worker at the store where you buy the ceiling parts can help you trim the rails.
Instructions
1. Mark on the walls in your room the height where the suspended ceiling will start. Ace Hardware recommends allowing at least 3 to 4 inches between the existing ceiling and the suspended one. Measure the appropriate distance from the room's floor or the joists above, then draw the line all the way around the room, using a level.
2. Attach the wall angle pieces to the walls, lining up the bottoms of the pieces with the level line you drew around the room. Either nail the wall angle pieces to the studs in the wall, using the mounting holes in the wall angles, or drive screws through the wall angles to hold them securely in the walls.
3. Mark the location of the main runner rails in the suspended ceiling, snapping a chalk line against the floor joists above. Measure from one wall in the room the width of the ceiling tiles and mark the first runner rail; then measure and mark the rest of the runner rails until you reach the other side of the room. Remember that the runner rails need to run perpendicular to the floor joists above the ceiling.
4. Thread eyebolts in every third floor joist where you marked with the chalk lines. Thread wire through the eyebolts and the holes in the runner rails, suspending the runners at the same height as the wall angle pieces, and twist the ends of the wire to keep the connections from coming loose.
5. Insert the hooks on the ends of the cross tees into the slots in the main runners. Space out cross tees to the width of the ceiling tiles.
6. Slide the ceiling tiles into the grid you installed in the ceiling, allowing their edges to rest against the main runners and the cross tees. Cut ceiling tiles with a utility knife, using a metal ruler to help you cut a straight line, to complete installation on the edges of the room.
Figuring out design your living room in a large apartment is a problem many home designers would love to have. Use your windows as part of your room decor; if your living room has large windows, use curtains to create breaks in the expanse so your windows don't dominate the room and overpower other elements of carefully chosen decor. If your windows are too small, create the illusion of height and width by hanging your curtain rod close to the ceiling and overextending the rod past your window's boundaries on both sides.
Instructions
1. Create various zones within to be used for specific purposes. If you don't have a separate dining room, set aside a portion of your living room for eating. Depending on the size of your living room, also designate specific areas for entertainment, such as watching television, viewing movies and playing video games; also set aside a part of the room for quiet conversation, solitary reflection and reading.
2. Use area rugs to create islands within your living room. Set up each furniture group on its own area rug; leave measured floor or carpet space between each island to make the separation clear.
3. Choose wall color and design accents based on your specific intentions for the space. If your living room is large and you want to make it feel more intimate and cozy, choose warm shades such as orange, yellow and red to create the illusion that the walls are approaching. Paint the ceiling a darker shade than the walls, and use wooden furniture and bronze accents to complete the theme. If your living room is small and you want to create the illusion of increased space, paint the wall cool shades that appear to recede, such as violet, light green and light blue. Paint the ceiling a lighter color than the walls to inspire a feeling of height and space; where possible, install glass-topped furniture with metal accents.
4. Gather each furniture zone around a specific focal point, to balance the furniture arrangement in the space. The television is the natural focal point for your living room's entertainment area; a large wall painting, peaceful window or orderly bookcase can be the focal point for your eating space or conversation zone. In , place the largest or most significant piece of furniture directly across from the focal point, and flank or oppose the largest piece with supporting pieces for balance and flow.
5. Use furniture and accessory placement to divide the space. Use a console table placed along the back of your couch to separate your entertainment area from your eating area; use an ottoman as versatile seating for your entertainment area or your eating zone. Use china cabinets, secretary desks, bookcases, wall hangings, pieces of art and large wall mirrors to mark the boundaries for other zones. If the living room feels huge and cavernous, use Chinese screens or floor-to-ceiling room dividers to create mini rooms within your larger space.
6. Use several sources of lighting to illuminate each zone specifically and the entire room collectively. Suggestions include tall floor lamps in corners, wall sconces, low lamps on end tables and overhead lighting to hang directly over the dining area.
7. Keep the overall design consistent to maintain flow. Although each zone might have its own motif and specific accents, repeat key colors to make the space appear cohesive and unified.
Tags: your living, your living room, living room, focal point, create illusion, each zone
Ceiling runners provide the main support for a suspended ceiling. Main runners run the length of the room and connect to ceiling wires that are joined to the support structure of your house. Cross runners connect to the main runners or from a main runner to wall molding. Each runner consists of a metal tee structure with a painted bottom clip that remains exposed after installation. Cutting the runners correctly maintains the structural integrity of the ceiling without damaging the finish of the exposed painted clip.
Instructions
1. Measure the length of the room -- from wall to wall -- with a tape measure to determine the runner length required for the suspended ceiling.
2. Pull the tape measure along a length of ceiling runner. Mark the required cut length on the painted front face of the runner with a pencil.
3. Set the base of a combination square against one side of the ceiling runner. Align the blade of the square with the pencil mark. Pull the pencil along the blade of the square to mark a perpendicular cut line.
4. Cut the marked line up to the center support tee with a pair of aviation snips. Move to the other side of the support tee and cut along the pencil line to the support tee.
5. Turn the ceiling runner over so the cut painted side is sitting on a flat surface. Place the aviation snips over the top edge of the runner. Cut toward the cuts on the front face of the runner.
6. Bend the runner gently back and forth at the cut to break the cut free.
Tags: ceiling runner, aviation snips, blade square, Ceiling runners, face runner, front face
Wallpapering a ceiling can be difficult but, with the right preparation, you can transform your ceiling and the entire room into a work of art. Just follow these steps.
Instructions
Prepare the Ceiling
1. Remove all flaking paint and sand any uneven areas of the ceiling. Take a razor blade and scrape off the flaky paint or use the sandpaper to sand it off.
2. Disconnect the electricity in the room you are wallpapering.
3. Remove any ceiling light fixtures. Take off the shade and unscrew the light bulbs. Unscrew the fixture and disconnect the wires.
4. Use masking tape to cover the hole left in the ceiling from the fixture.
Prepare the Paper
5. Measure the are of the ceiling to make sure you have the right amount of wallpaper. Start in any corner of the room and measure the length and the width of the ceiling. Check the length and width of the paper. You want to have one to two inches of extra wallpaper on each side to overlap onto the wall.
6. Measure and cut the wallpaper to the appropriate lengths
7. Soak or paste the wallpaper. For pre-pasted wallpaper, soak the paper in a tub of water for the time specified on the package. If the paper is not pre-pasted, use a wallpaper paste. Mix the paste as directed on the package. Lay the paper flat and paste about 18 inches at a time.
Paper the Ceiling
8. Apply the wallpaper to the ceiling. Carefully stand on a ladder. To be safe, have someone hold the ladder in place for you. Have someone hand you the wallpaper. Starting in a corner of the room and one or two inches down on the wall, place the paper on the wall. Try to match the patterns of adjacent wallpaper. Press the paper flat against the wall and ceiling with a soft brush or squeegee. Work out any bubbles. Make sure the wallpaper is tightly pressed into the corners of the wall and ceiling. To help the process along, have your partner use a broom to place the wallpaper on the ceiling ahead of you.
9. Work your way across the ceiling with the brush or squeegee. Press hard against the ceiling to make sure the paste sticks and to remove any bubbles.
10. Match the wallpaper on the ceiling to the wallpaper on the wall when you reach the place where the wall and ceiling meet. Cut off any excess paper.
11. Cover the entire ceiling by repeating the steps above.
12. Press the seams of the wallpaper flat with a paint roller or a rolling pin.
13. Cut a hole in the wallpaper with a razor blade or scissors to make room for your light fixture. Leave an inch of paper around the inside of the hole. Wrap the extra paper into the hole. This will hold the wallpaper in place for a longer time.
14. Reinstall the light fixture and turn on the electricity in the room.
Wood ceilings are a great look for studies, foyers and many other rooms. One place you usually don't see them is in the bathroom, because the moisture in the air can soften and rot wood surfaces. If you really want a wood ceiling in your bathroom, modern building materials give you some options. You can get ceiling boards that are treated and sealed against moisture, making them far more durable in the bathroom environment. This is still not recommended for full baths with showers in them, but for a half bath, it can work out just fine.
Instructions
1. Find each joist in the bathroom ceiling with an electronic stud finder. Mark the positions of the joists with a level and pencil.
2. Measure the edge of the ceiling where you're going to start. The starting wall must be perpendicular to the joists.
3. Cut a ceiling board to the length of the ceiling, as you measured it perpendicular to the joists. Make the cut on your miter saw, straight across.
4. Set the board to the ceiling, at the starting edge, with the groove of the board facing the wall and the tongue side facing out into the room. Leave a half-inch space between the board and the wall.
5. Secure the board with nails shot straight up through the board's surface at each point where it crosses a joist. Shoot in two nails per joist.
6. Cut a second board to fit along the length of the ceiling, which will be the same length as the . Hold the second board with the grooved side over tongue of the first board. Affix the second board with your trim nails, shooting the nails through the sides, one at each joist.
7. Repeat for each ceiling board, building across the ceiling. Cut the last board lengthwise to fit against the far wall, leaving a half-inch gap there. Ceiling trim will cover the gaps.
Tags: board with, second board, ceiling board, each joist, first board
Hand hewn wood beams like these will accent a country style decor perfectly.
Wood beams in a home can provide a very inviting feeling. Generally, wood beams are left unexposed, and they are used as the décor themselves. This means that instead of decorating the wood beams with knick knacks and curiosities, the home owner must determine where the wood beams should be within the home, so the wood beams provide the optimal effect.
Instructions
1. Utilize hand hewn wood beams in homes that are styled with country décor. The effect (even if it manufactured) will increase the country feeling of the room. Ideally, these wood beams should cross the ceiling and come down at each corner, forming corner posts. Don't paint them, as that will detract from the country style, but if the beams are not quite the color you want, you can use a wood stain to darken them. Keep in mind that stain will not lighten a wood--it will only darken it.
2. Create an entire ceiling of wooden beams for an exotic décor. Using smaller wooden beams, about two inches wide, cover the entire ceiling of your room. To attach the small beams to the existing ceiling, use small finishing nails. Cover the shininess of the nails with a small dab of nail polish that matches the color of the wood. To choose the nail polish, take a small piece of the wood to the store with you, so that you don't have to make a dozen trips to get the right shade. When covering the ceiling, work from one side of the room to the other, leaving no gaps between the beams. Hang lantern style lighting from light fixtures to draw the eye upward and increase the effect of the ceiling.
3. Enhance doorways with wood beams. This option works best for doorways that don't actually have doors. Measure the height and the width of the doorway. Then measure the width of the doorway where it transitions from one room to the next. This smaller measurement is the width that your beams will need to be. Attach a wooden beam to either side of the existing doorway, using appropriate nails. The thicker your beams are, the stronger the nails need to be. Then attach the last beam to the top of the doorway to complete the look. Again, you can use an appropriate shade of nail polish to cover the tops of the nails. This style works best in cabin type homes.
Tags: wood beams, hand hewn, hewn wood, hewn wood beams, nail polish
A short in a light fixture usually causes electrical arcing.
Household electricity travels in closed loops through insulated circuit wires. Red and black wires are hot, which means that they carry the electrical signal, while white and bare wires are neutral and provide a return path back to the electrical source, or the ground. Ceiling fixtures, like all electrical elements, are wired to allow the electricity to perform before following the return path. If insulation or connections fail and the hot wire contacts a neutral inside the fixture, it creates a short circuit that usually is accompanied by electrical arcing and the failure of the fixture.
Instructions
1. Check the breaker that controls the circuit if you suspect a short circuit in a ceiling fixture. If there is a short, the breaker will have been tripped. Confirm the short by turning on the light switch, then resetting the breaker. It should trip again immediately. Leave it off.
2. Look for discoloration of the drywall around the base of the fixture. If you see any, the short is probably in the house wiring and not in the internal wiring of the fixture.
3. Unscrew the fixture from the ceiling box with a screwdriver and inspect the wiring. You may notice blackened or melted wire insulation and exposed wires at the exact location of the short. You may also find that a wire cap has dropped off the ends of the wires it was covering and that the wires are in contact with the metal base of the lamp, the electrical box or the bare ground wires.
4. Remove the ceiling fixture if you can't find a problem in the house circuitry. Turn on the light switch and reset the breaker. If the house circuitry is intact, the breaker should stay on. After confirming this, turn off the breaker.
5. Inspect the fixture for loose internal wiring or worn insulation that has left a wire exposed. Check the solder connections around the base of each of the sockets. If there are exposed wires or one of the solder connections has come loose, you probably will notice a blackened area at which the wires have made contact with each other.
6. Look inside the sockets. Any blackened area inside one of them is a sign of a defect in the socket that may be causing the short circuit.
Decorating a bathroom on a budget doesn't have to be an impossible dream. After all, the bathroom is one of the smaller rooms in the house, so transforming a wall or adding some storage does not involve the same level of investment as decorating for the kitchen or bedroom. While decorating a bathroom on the cheap, keep in mind that many things can be cleaned, refurbished or repurposed to be suitable and stylish for the bathroom.
Remove Clutter
Nothing kills the look of a space more than a bunch of random objects strewn about. The bathroom counters can turn into the resting place for slivers of soap, prescription medicines, pocket change and other detritus. Streamline your look by creating systems for the items that accumulate. It is simple and easy to add small boxes to drawers to store disparate items such as bobby pins, sewing notions and doctors' instructions. You can add color by gift-wrapping these open boxes in bright shades. Small metal pots and pails are also ideal for storing objects, and these are pretty enough to place on open shelves. Avoid shopping in the cute bathroom section of home furnishing stores and aim for the garden and outdoors sections which features items in similar, sturdy materials.
Add Color
The bathroom is typically home to four white walls. It is simple and cheap to add a splash of color by painting an accent wall. You can often buy cans of paint that were mixing "accidents" at paint stores. If covering a whole wall is too steep and investment, add color by painting the trim, door, baseboards or window frames a bright color. Jewel tones such as turquoise or jade look bold against typical bathroom neutrals of white or cream. You can also use a border of wallpaper or stencils to add visual pop to the bathroom. Vintage fabrics can add panache when used as trim on basic curtains and towels.
Invest in Accent Pieces
If you are going to spend a little money on the bathroom, try for something funky and interesting that can add a lot of personality and individual style. Maybe there are some towels in a vintage '60s paisley or some bright coral and seashells that could adorn the counter. The hardware store and thrift stores can be treasure troves of funky fixtures that can be repurposed to be used as hangers, hooks, curtain rods or wall art. Yard sales are the ideal domains for shabby chic tea cups that can hold cotton balls or cool, ornate frames with removable tacky paintings. Candles are another affordable and useful accessory that give a bathroom style. Place them in old blue bottles, mason jars or wine bottles.
A fishing net and the bathroom are ideal partners when it comes to combining the two into a themed decor. The beach, sea life and fishing themes are often used in bathroom decor with the fishing net as a focal point in the design. By adding bright colors and water-related decorative elements, you can use the fishing net theme to create a personalized bathroom for anyone who enjoys being around the water for fun in the sun or sport.
Fishing Net Wall
Fishing nets are the perfect canvas for your bathroom wall. Hang one large or several small fishing nets on your wall and think of it as a canvas. Attach seashells, starfish, miniature life preservers and fishing lures on the fishing net to decorate it.
Bathroom Door
A fishing net on your bathroom door can be used in the same way as a net hanging on your wall. Attach wooden letters on the net to spell out the word "Bathroom" or any favorite nickname you have for the bathroom. You could even spell out something like "All Ashore," "Unloading Dock" or "Captain's Quarters."
Corner Ceilings
Fishing nets hanging in the high corners of your bathroom offer the ideal way to display a variety of beach decor or fishing decor. Fill each net with larger seashells or odds and ends fishing gear. Large plastic fish in the nets can enhance the fishing or beach theme of the bathroom as well.
Decorative Elements
Hang decorative elements on your bathroom wall that go with the fishing net focal point. Shadow boxes with colorful sand and seashells is one idea. A large plastic marlin or dolphin figurine placed on shelves can help develop an appropriate theme. Set jars filled with layers of multi-colored sand or miniature seashells on your sink and counter tops and extend the theme to your shower by hanging a fishing net in the shower for holding your shampoo, soap and scrubbing sponges.
Tags: your bathroom, bathroom wall, , fishing focal point, Fishing nets
A new faucet is an easy update for kitchen or bath.
When your old sink faucet fixture has seen better days and youare looking to update the look of your kitchen or bathroom, don't be intimidated by the thought of changing out your fixture. For a homeowner with basic DIY skills, no plumber is necessary. Just pick up a new faucet fixture in a sharp finish like brushed nickel or antique bronze and get busy with the wrench -- it's easier than you think.
Instructions
1. Turn off the faucet's valve. The valve is an oval knob located under the sink on the wall.
2. Turn on faucet to drain remaining water from lines. Once water has drained, turn off faucet.
3. Place small pot under the sink to collect any water.
4. Use adjustable wrench to disconnect lines for hot and cold water. These can be found under sink at faucet's base.
5. Use a basin wrench to remove the mounting nuts that connect faucet to sink
6. Remove old sink faucet fixture from basin. Run a putty knife carefully under the faucet to loosen old putty's grip.
7. Clean faucet area thoroughly to remove dust, grime and old putty. Dry the faucet mounting area with a clean rag.
8. Set mounting gasket in place on the sink.
9. Position new sink faucet so it sits level on sink on top of the gasket.
10. From the basin's underside, slip washers onto faucet. Use adjustable wrench to tighten locking nuts.
11. Wrap plumber's tape around the threads of the water supply lines. Thread on the water supply nuts and connect lines into your new faucet in a reverse of the removal process.
12. Switch on water supply valves.
13. Remove the aerator cap on the end of your new faucet.
14. Turn faucet on and allow water to run while you check for leaks. Once any small particles from inside the new faucet or any debris from inside the pipes runs out, turn off the water and replace the aerator screen.
Tags: sink faucet, water supply, Turn faucet, , adjustable wrench
Your bathroom can have just as much personality as the other rooms in your home---you can even express yourself with the soap you use. Whether you like dainty animal sculptures, soap with a pick-me-up zing or even Barack Obama in your shower, you're sure to find a cool soap that fits your style.
Animal Soaps
Animal-shaped soaps are cute and quirky bathroom accessories. You can lather up with critters ranging from pigs to dinosaurs and everything in between. Gianna Rose Atelier makes a line of triple-milled soaps that come in beautifully detailed animal shapes. Le Chat Sophistique is a little white cat with a pink ribbon around its neck. It's fragranced with tulip and hyacinth. You can also find three little pigs and three monkeys, scented with white lychee. Dog-breed soaps include Westies, chocolate and yellow labs, pugs and poodles. A twist on this idea is soap with a toy animal embedded in it: Willow Farms makes soap with a toy horse figurine peeking out.
Caffeinated Soap
Caffeinated soap is a conversation piece for your shower or bath, and it also claims to wake you up. It contains caffeine anhydrous, which can be absorbed through your skin. Brands include Shower Shock, Xoxide and Bath Buzz. Shower Shock is a 4-oz. bar that will last 12 showers or baths; you'll absorb around 200 mg of caffeine during each wash. That's about the same as one 8-oz. cup of coffee.
Xoxide contains 250 mg of caffeine at 15 servings per bar. Shower Shock recommends you build up a good amount of lather to ensure maximum caffeine absorption. Both Xoxide and Shower Shock are mint-scented.
Realistic Food Soap
Soap that looks like food makes getting clean a bit more delicious. MollyCoddleSoap makes food-shaped soaps from avocado to jumbo shrimp. Have breakfast in your shower with a waffle and maple syrup. Bath time becomes dessert time when you wash up with a jelly donut or a chocolate brownie. They're scented like the food they represent---apart from the jumbo shrimp, which smell like chai tea.
Other almost-edible treats for purchase online include Gummi Bear soap, a sushi soap sampler (from Etsy seller BunnyBubbles), Oreo cookies, popcorn chicken, peanuts (from Etsy store LoveLee) and Jello shots.
Obama Soap
Now you can shower with Barack Obama. Honor the 44th president of the United States with this soap crafted in his likeness. This soap is made by David Chalat for Windy's Creations. It weighs 8 oz. and has a milk and honey or vanilla and almond fragrance. It's made of glycerin. You can also purchase an unscented version.
iPhone Soap
You don't have to worry about dropping these phones in the bath; in fact, they won't work unless you do. TwoEggplants makes soaps that look like iPhones, Palms, iPods and BlackBerries. The BlackBerry has all the right buttons on the keyboard, and is scented with---you guessed it---blackberry. (There's another version of this soap that smells like bourbon and coke.)
The iPhone soap is amaretto scented, and also contains skin-softening shea butter. It can be customized with a different fragrance, or made without shea butter. All TwoEggplants soaps are made with a vegan soap base and cosmetic-grade coloring.
Tags: , soap with, your shower, Barack Obama, contains caffeine, fragrance made
If you are remodeling a home, there is a lot to do and many things to buy. One way to cut down on costs is to reuse existing items whenever possible. When working in an older home, you may especially want to preserve the original--and in some instances antique--woodwork of the home. Removing old paint from baseboards and crown molding in order to refinish or repaint them can be done fairly easily.
Baseboard Removal
The easiest way to strip baseboards is to take them off of the wall first. This can be done by using a trim bar (a small crowbar) and a hammer. Gently tap the trim bar behind the baseboard at each nail point and carefully pry the baseboard away from the wall until all of it has been removed.
Stripping
There are a few ways to go about stripping the paint or stain off your baseboards. Using a stripping agent is the recommended method. There are many types of strippers available and most only need to be applied and scraped off using a plastic scraper. Using plastic as opposed to metal prevents marring the wood. Be sure to wear gloves when using a stripping agent, though, as some are highly caustic and may be harmful to your skin. It is also important to use the stripping agent in a well-ventilated area, since contain chemicals that release harmful vapors that should not be inhaled.
Sanding
The final step involved is sanding down the baseboards. Invariably when stripping there will be a few spots of paint left that the stripper did not remove and these can easily be sanded off using a medium to fine grit sand paper. Also sanding the entire baseboard provides a smooth surface to stain or repaint.
A popcorn textured ceiling helps to break up a dull drab flat ceiling surface, as well as covering up drywall problems that can occur during installation. It's an attractive choice for many homeowners, however sometimes a change is called for. Removing the popcorn texture to make the change can be a long and messy process, complicating any project more involved than repainting the texture. There is an alternative to removing the texture though, allowing you to achieve the new look your desire by simply placing a layer of ceiling tiles right over the popcorn texture.
Instructions
1. Remove any loose popcorn texture present on the a broom.
2. Turn off the breakers to turn off the supply of electricity to the room you're installing the ceiling tiles in.
3. Remove all lights and other fixtures in your ceiling using the screwdrivers.
4. Find the center of the room by measuring each wall and dividing the measurement by 2. Place a mark at the dividing points.
5. Chalk a line between opposing walls at the center points. To chalk a line, run the chalk string between opposing walls at the marks, pull slightly on the string and release it, snapping it against the ceiling surface and leaving a straight chalk line neatly dividing the room in half. Do this with both opposing walls, forming a cross at the room's ceiling.
6. Apply the ceramic tile the putty knife to the rear of the tiles. Place the adhesive using a series of small dabs of the substance covering the tile surface.
7. Place the first tile onto the ceiling using as a guide one of the angles formed where the center lines meet. Press it to the ceiling firmly, making sure that all portions of the tile are gripping the ceiling well.
8. Continue to install tiles, lining them up with the first tile placed as close as possible, working from the center of the room to the edge. For areas where fixtures were in place, cut through the applied tiles using a utility knife to uncover the hole. Continue with the installation until all of the full tiles are placed, and only gaps for partial tiles remain.
9. Measure each gap for partial tile placements with the measuring tape. Measure the gap where the edges of the tiles will be placed, measuring from the moulding to the full tile. Cut the tiles according to the measurements, using the straight edge to create a smoothly cut line. Check the fit of the partial tile without the adhesive, making adjustments if necessary. If the fit is correct, then install the cut tiles to the partial tile gaps.
10. Apply caulking to the joints between installed tiles if placing them in a moisture rich area.
Don't throw out that ugly old ceiling fan, paint it instead. If your ceiling fan is in good working order and you don't want to buy another one, painting is a great alternative. Use your imagination, go wild. You can paint the ceiling fan any color you want; match the room, match the ceiling or create a whole new look. Use these tips to help you paint a ceiling fan.
Instructions
1. Decide what parts of the ceiling fan you want to paint. You can paint just the blades or the blades and the housing. If you want to keep the housing as a brass color, you will need a different paint than for the blades. For example, if you want to keep a polished brass housing and paint the blades white, you will need white enamel for the blades and brass paint for the housing.
2. Buy the paint. Enamel paint is much more durable than latex. Appliance grade enamel comes in spray cans and is easy to work with; it gives a hard and durable finish. Copper and brass spray paint is also available in spray cans for the housing. It's important to cover the openings into the housing before you use any paint. Use tape or cardboard to cover the openings into the housing itself.
3. Get the extra things you'll need when you buy paint. You'll need paint remover, painters tape, rags and a dropcloth. You may also want to buy a protective mask and gloves. You will also need newspaper to cover work areas.
4. Clear an area to work on; use the kitchen table or counter for painting the blades. Place newspapers on the surface and place the dropcloth where the spray paint could drift.
5. Turn off the power to the ceiling fan. Remove the ceiling fan blades with a screwdriver and place on the protected working area.
6. Tape newspapers to the ceiling if you are painting the housing; make sure you cover enough area to cover the spray drift. Make sure you use painter's tape to protect the ceiling. Cover the openings into the fan housing with tape or cardboard to keep paint out of the housing. Lightly sand the housing to rough it up; this helps the paint adhere to the surface. Wipe off the dust from sanding and paint the housing. Apply several light coats instead of a heavy one to prevent drips and give a more uniform appearance.
7. Sand the blades lightly and wipe off the dust. Use painters' tape to mask off any areas you don't want painted. Elevate the blade off the newspaper by placing it on a brick or something that is not as wide as the blade. Elevating the blade will keep the blade from sticking to the newspaper and will make it easier to turn when painting. Apply several light coats to prevent drips. Turn over to paint the reverse side only after the fan blade is thoroughly dry.
8. Remove the tape and newspapers after you are satisfied with the paint job. Reassemble the fan only after the fan blades and housing are thoroughly dry. Restore the power to the ceiling fan. Clean up with paint remover.
Tags: into housing, openings into, openings into housing, paint housing, Apply several, Apply several light, blades housing
Recessed lights can be used for large rooms and high ceilings. They add value to your home and can brighten up the decor in the room. Wiring recessed lights can be a simple process if you know work with electricity. Doing this project yourself can save you a lot of money.
Instructions
1. Drill a hole by the breaker box and where you are putting the light switch using the drill and the 1-inch wood bit. Put the switch box in.
2. Using the tape measure, measure from the hole by the breaker box to the hole by the light switch.
3. Using the wire cutters, cut and clean the wires going to the switch box. Put the black wire on the right side of the and the white and copper wires on the left side of the light switch.
4. Measure the wire from the light switch to where you are putting the junction box. Cut and clean the wires going to the light switch. Put the black wire on the right side and the white and on the left side. Tighten down the screw on the switch to hold the wires in place.
5. Take the wire for the junction box and cut and clean it. Put the wires in the junction box after attaching it to the ceiling joist.
6. Set the recessed lights in the ceiling where you want them. Run the wire from the junction box to the first recessed light, then to the second recessed light.
7. Connect all the black wires together at the junction box. The white wires go together and the copper wires attach together as well. Connect the wires to the recessed lights. The black wire goes on the black wire, the white wire goes on the white wire, and the copper wire goes on the ground screw.
8. Place the wire nuts on all of the wire connections. Tighten them down by turning them clockwise. Put black tape on all of the wire nuts until they are completely covered. This is for safety reasons.
9. Cut and clean the wires for the 110/20 amp breaker. Make sure the breaker is turned off. Put the black wire in the breaker. The white wire and the copper wire go in the ground bars in the breaker box.
10. Turn the breaker on and check all of the connections with the electrical tester to make sure everything is working properly.
Tags: light switch, black wire, clean wires, copper wires,
Poplar crown molding is a relatively inexpensive type of trim, made from quick-growing deciduous trees. Since poplar is a tight-grained wood, it doesn't accept stain particularly well. Because of this, the wood is often finished with paint instead. Like other bare wood surfaces, poplar requires a primer base to enhance surface adhesion. Learn the proper way to prepare and paint your poplar crown molding, or you could end up marring adjacent surfaces with unsightly overlap.
Instructions
1. Wipe your poplar crown molding down with sticky tack cloths. Tiny dust particles can prevent primer from bonding to poplar molding. Don't use rags which will only spread dust around.
2. Carefully affix tape to the portions of the ceiling and wall immediately adjacent to the poplar molding. Press your thumb against the tape and smooth it against the surface to ensure that it is firmly attached.
3. Open the container of latex primer. Stir the contents for 60 seconds. Pour 1/4-gallon into a plastic painter's pot.
4. Apply primer to the poplar molding, using a 2- to 3-inch paintbrush. To encourage smooth results, brush along with the wood grain. Let the poplar dry for two hours.
5. Wash your brush under a water tap.
6. Paint the poplar crown molding just as you primed it. Use a satin paint for a muted finish. Select either a semi-gloss or gloss latex paint for a shiny finish. Let the finished poplar dry for two hours.
Painting a ceiling with stencils is a ceiling decoration that any do-it-yourself decorator can do with ease.
The ceiling is often neglected when decorating the home, perhaps because homeowners think that no one even notices what's above them. Decorating the ceiling draws focus upward so that the whole house is noticed. Painting ceilings with a stenciled design is easy for any DIY decorator to do, but provides impressive results. You can stencil the whole ceiling, create a border or use stencils to accentuate a single area, such as the area around a chandelier or the corners of the ceiling. Choose from a variety of stencil designs like leaves, filigree or Greek-inspired designs.
Instructions
1. Cover the floor and furniture with plastic or painter's canvas so that paint doesn't damage your furnishings.
2. Line the stencil up where you want it to go on the ceiling. Start in one corner if you will be stenciling the entire ceiling.
3. Lightly spray the back of the stencil with spray adhesive to help hold it in place. Remember that you will be working against gravity so the stencil won't want to hold in place.
4. Stick the stencil to the ceiling and then tape with painter's tape for extra support.
5. Roll the paint roller over the stencil, being careful not to press too hard. You also don't want to use too much paint on your roller at one time because this presents the potential for paint drips.
6. Wait for the paint to dry and then add a second coat of paint. Wait for the second coat to dry and then remove the stencil.
7. Line the stencil up next to the first painted design and repeat the process until you cover the entire area. If you wish to paint the whole ceiling with the design, lining the stencil up correctly is important, but most stencils should have some kind of mark to indicate where to place the next stencil.
Tags: ceiling with, hold place, Line stencil, second coat, whole ceiling
Hydroponics is the system of growing plants without soil that allows gardeners to grow plants year-round in a controlled environment. In order to accomplish this, hydroponics gardeners commonly use artificial lighting to promote plant growth and vitality. Although several types of artificial lighting systems are available, light-emitting diodes (or LEDs for short) provide hydroponic gardeners with an efficient and long-lasting source of light. LEDs also give off less heat than conventional bulbs, making them ideal for growing heat-sensitive plants.
Instructions
1. Select an appropriate LED lighting system. Kits are available and they are ideal for the beginner because they make the initial setup very easy. The price of a LED system can seem high, so it is important to find a cost-effective system that meets your individual needs. However, although the initial cost may seem pricey, the LED light systems will more than make up for the cost in energy savings over the long run.
2. Choose the appropriate bulbs for your individual situation. Classic white bulbs produce a wide spectrum of light, most of which is not useful for plants to engage in photosynthesis. On the other hand, LED lights generally come in red or blue, the two most useful wavelengths of light for growing plants. A combination of red and blue LED lights will provide for larger spectrum coverage, and as a result, better plants.
3. Install the over your plants according to the directions provided. One of the benefits of using LED lights in hydroponic gardening is that the light is directed straight down. Therefore, you will not need to worry about installing any sort of reflective system in addition to the original LED lights. In addition, a LED system produces virtually no heat, which means that you can mount them fairly close to the plants. In fact, some systems boast that you can mount them as close as six inches to the plants.
4. Attach any peripheral control devices, such as plant timers. Although you can certainly always turn on your LED light system by hand, you can also attach it to a plant timer. These timers are a great way to ensure that you have preprogrammed control over your hydroponic lighting system.
Tags: artificial lighting, growing plants, light system, Lighting Hydroponics, lighting system, mount them, over your
Traditionally, wood beams are large timbers that are placed in various parts of your house, where extra strength is needed. In past eras wood beams have almost always been fashioned from one piece of lumber, but in recent years wood beams are often built from several pieces of wood to help reduce the cost and to take advantage of some modern materials which can actually strengthen the beam. Learn make simple beams that can become part of the architectural design and structure of your house.
Instructions
Make Wood Beams
1. Determine the size and length of the beam that needs to built. This should be done in accordance with the building plans or the architect, who has designed the project.
2. Calculate the thickness of the beam. This is usually determined by the size of the post or supporting wall that is located underneath the beam. For example a beam that sits on top of a 4-by-4 piece of lumber will only need to be 3 1/2 inches wide, if it is to remain flush with the post. However, a beam that sits on top of a 2-by-6 support wall will have an actual thickness of 5 1/2 inches. For simplicity's sake we will plan on building a beam that is 5 1/2 inches wide and eight feet long. It will be made from 2-by-6 framing members, so it will be 5 1/2 inches high.
3. Plan how you will get your actual thickness. This takes some doing for their are several variables. The thickness of the 2-by-6's is not one of them for each board will be 1 1/2 inches thick. And each layer of construction adhesive will take up an 1/8 of an inch, so that is a constant also. Our variables comes with the layers of plywood that goes between each framing member (2-by-6's in this case). So first we need to figure how many pieces of 2-by-6's we meed in the 5 1/2 inches of thickness. Our answer is three and these three boards will take up 4 1/2 inches. Then we will have one layer of plywood between each board. That comes to two pieces of plywood and four layers of construction adhesive. The thickness of the construction adhesive is constant so we calculate that next. If we look closely, we will see that there will be four layers of construction adhesive. 1/8 of an inch multiplied by four will give us a 1/2 inch, just needed for the glue. The final step is to calculate how much room we have for the two sheets of plywood. Since we have 1/2 inch of space left and we need two strips of plywood, our final result tells us to cut two pieces of 1/4 plywood to get the correct thickness of 5 1/2 inches. We will do that first.
4. Cut two strips of 1/4 inch plywood that are eight feet long and 5 1/2 inches wide.
5. Lay on 2-by-6 on top of a pair of sawhorses and add the adhesive, then nail the plywood to the 2-by-6 using 1 1/2 inch roofing nails. Make sure all edges of the plywood and 2-by-6 are flush.
6. Add another layer of adhesive and then place a 2-by-6 on top. Nail these together with #6 common nails. Make sure all edges of the plywood and 2-by-6 are flush.
7. Add another layer of adhesive and then comes another strip of 1/4 inch plywood. Again use #6 common nails to tie everything together. Make sure all edges of the plywood and 2-by-6 are flush.
8. Add another layer of adhesive and then place a 2-by-6 on top. Nail these together with #10 common nails. Make sure all edges of the plywood and 2-by-6 are flush.
9. Turn the beam over and add some more #10 common nails to make sure the beam is tight. Let the adhesive dry and your built-up beam is ready for installation.
Choose bathroom floor tile that is bright and refreshing.
Because bathroom floor tile is nearly permanent once it is installed, it's important to choose bright and appealing floor tile for your bathroom. Bathroom tile is available in many sizes, shapes, textures, colors and designs, so it can feel overwhelming when choosing a specific tile. Before choosing bathroom floor tiles, carefully weigh the importance of the visual aesthetic, functionality and cost. Choose a bathroom floor tile that is not only visually appealing, durable and comfortable to walk and stand on, but also one that you can afford.
Instructions
1. Browse home improvement magazines or websites and collect pictures of bathroom floors you like. Gathering samples will help you determine the type of to purchase and give you a point of reference for tile designs.
2. Set a budget and choose a bathroom floor tile based on your budget. There are several types of bathroom floor tiles to choose from including stone tile (granite, sandstone, marble, limestone and slate), ceramic tile, quarry tile, glass tile, porcelain tile, mosaic tile and vinyl tile. Stone tile is very durable and visually appealing, but it's also the most expensive floor tile and gets slippery when wet. Naturally textured stone tiles like slate or sandblasted ceramic tiles are not as slippery. Ceramic floor tiles are a superb option for bathroom floors because they are inexpensive, extremely durable, easy to install and water resistant. Ceramic tile flooring comes in designs that look like stone, but at a much cheaper price. Quarry tiles are durable but come in limited colors. Glass floor tiles are beautiful, durable and water resistant but are also slippery when wet. Porcelain is slightly more expensive than ceramic tile and is very durable and stain resistant. Mosaic tiles come in sheets, so the installation process is much faster than installing one tile at a time. Vinyl floor tiles are inexpensive, practical, durable and easy to install, but they are more likely to harbor germs and peel up after several years of wear and tear. According to BobVila.com, vinyl tiles "don't last as long as sheet vinyl, though, and the gaps between them can be hard to seal."
3. Decide on the size, texture, pattern, shape, design and color of floor tiles you want to install. Large floor tiles are easier to clean, make bathrooms look bigger and are best for patterns that repeat. Small floor tiles are harder to clean because there is more grout around each tile, but they are easier to walk on because grout provides more traction underfoot. Textured bathroom tiles also provide good traction when wet. If you plan to sell your home, choose floor tiles that most home buyers find refreshing. Most homeowners and home buyers prefer floor tile with neutral colors like almond, cream, taupe, ivory and gray. Avoid installing dark-colored tile floors since darker colors tend to make bathrooms feel smaller.
4. Take photographs of the bathroom floor you plan to tile. If you cannot decide what type of bathroom flooring to purchase, share the photographs and magazine samples with tile shop staff. They can help you choose the tile flooring that fits within your budget. Tile stores often offer discount floor tile, so ask to see that selection as well.