Install Armstrong Tiles

Armstrong vinyl tile is available in more than 100 designs.

Armstrong offers both vinyl sheeting and tiles -- both provide similar floor coverage but tiles are far more use friendly. In many cases, the tiles are self-adhesive which eliminates the need for potentially messy adhesive. The company offers a design for just about anyone, including nearly 70 patterns that mimic the look of natural stone. Always start with a clean surface and remove all of the furniture from your room before you begin.

Instructions

1. Use a tape measure to find the middle point on each of the four walls in your room. Mark the middle point with a pencil and then snap a chalk line between the mid-points on opposing walls. The end result will be two lines that overlap in the center of the room, creating four equal quadrants. Use a framing square to confirm that the lines create four 90 degree angles.

2. Spread adhesive over half of the room for tiles that require it. Use a notched trowel to spread the adhesive and let it set per the instructions for your specific adhesive -- as a general rule, the adhesive is ready when it feels dry to the touch and does not stick to your finger. For tiles that are self-adhesive, peel back the thin piece of paper backing.

3. Start laying tiles in the center of the room, placing the corner of the first tile into one of the corners created by your chalk lines. Continue to lay the tiles in rows, filling up one quadrant entirely before moving on to the next. When working with adhesive, wait until the side with adhesive is completely tiled before starting on the other side.

4. Cut tiles to fit against the wall using a utility knife. To measure the necessary size for your tile, place a full size tile (Tile 1) over the last full tile on the ground and then place another tile (Tile 2) over Tile 1. Slide Tile 2 so that it is flush with the wall. Mark the edge of Tile 2 with a pencil -- the mark will show up on Tile 1. Cut Tile 1 along the pencil line and use it to fill the gap against the wall.

5. Roll the entire wall in both directions to secure the tile. Wait at least five days before washing the tile.

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Chandelier Terms

Chandeliers can be antique or modern.

A chandelier, a hanging light fixture with multiple arms, has been known to bring a room together. These lovely decorative lights can be antique or modern, come in many sizes and can evoke a number of feelings. As there are numerous types of chandeliers, there are a number of terms that describe these lighting fixtures.

Arms

The "arm" or "branch" is the part of the chandelier in which the light is attached. The arms and decorative elements are attached to the "spire," and the "arm plate" is the part where the arm is attached. The "arm to arm festoon" are the strands that run between the arms; they attach to crystal pendants and hang from or beneath the "bobeche," which is the area where the candle or the decorative piece sits (and catches the wax).

Fixtures and Such

The "fixtures" of a chandelier are the electrical items that attach the chandelier to the ceiling or wall. A "canopy" is the decorative piece that covers the electrical box on the ceiling and a "collar" is the threaded ring that holds the canopy to the ceiling. The "top loop" is the attachment from the chain to the fixture.

Main Parts

The "baluster" is the center of the chandelier, while the "break" refers to the area that connects the different pieces of the "column," or "stem," which are both terms for the center piece. In regards to a chandelier, the term "cage" refers to a metal structure used to create a center opening for embellishments.

Decorative

When describing a chandelier, there are a number of decorative terms, such as "scrolls," which are the bent pieces of metal that form a design and attaches to the column. The "finial" is the decorative piece attached to the base and "festoons" are the lovely clusters of crystal hanging from the chandelier. "Shades" are the glass, fabric or metal light coverings and a "candle sleeve" is a decorative cover for the socket.

Tags: decorative piece, antique modern, there number

Use A Texture Spray Gun & What Mixture Ratio To Use

Textured ceilings are very common in modern home decor.

Texture spray guns are used to paint or apply a texture to walls, floors and ceilings. The most common form of texture spraying is popcorn-textured ceiling paint. The texture spray gun hooks up to an air compressor to propel air forcing the textured paint onto a surface. Mix 5.7 liters of water per 25 pounds of texture material. The texture paint should have the consistency of a paste. Water may be added to thin the texture paint as needed.

Instructions

1. Pour the texture material into an empty paint bucket. Pour in 5.7 liters of water for every 25 pounds of texture material. Thoroughly mix the spray texture until it has the consistency of a paste.

2. Attach the hose of the compressor to the nozzle on the texture spray gun. Pull the nozzle back and hold it to release the lock on the nozzle. Insert the hose on to the nozzle and release the nozzle securing the hose.

3. Pour the spray texture mixture into the tank located on top of the texture spray gun.

4. Turn on the power switch to the air compressor. This will allow the air pressure to force the texture spray through the nozzle of the gun.

5. Squeeze the trigger with your hand to extract the texture spray from the gun. Stand two to four feet away from the surface you are spraying to prevent any excess build-up in one spot. Slowly move your arm back and forth evenly spreading the texture on the surface until the whole surface is covered.

Tags: texture material, consistency paste, liters water, pounds texture, pounds texture material, spray texture, texture paint

Tips On Cutting Ceiling Tiles

Fiber ceiling tiles are a wonder of convenience for ceiling repairs. When an area of the ceiling is damaged by water or other problems, you don't have to repair the whole ceiling; you just pull out the individual tiles that are affected and install new ones in their place. Generally, ceiling tiles are sized to fit perfectly into their drop-ceiling frames so there is minimal cutting. When cutting is necessary for edges and corners, the trick to preventing the tiles from tearing is to use a sharp razor and to take it slow.

Proper Measuring

Most drop ceilings are designed so the tiles sit on a thin metal lip or "shelf'' about 1/2 inch all around. This gives you a little wiggle room when it comes to measuring and cutting the tile. Determine the width you need to cut the tile by measuring above the lip--on the part of the metal frame where the tile actually sits as opposed to the side of the metal that covers the edge of the tile. Once you have the measurement, subtract 1/4 inch from it and use that as the number you transfer to your tile.

Straight Cuts

Lay your tile on a flat, disposable surface (a piece of plywood works well). The side of the tile that will face down into the room should be facing up at you. Transfer your measurement from the ceiling frame onto the front of the tile, putting two marks on the tile at the top and bottom. Lay your level or other straight-edge across the two marks. Press down firmly on the level and drag your razor knife alongside it. Don't cut all the way through; make the cut about 1/4-inch deep. Go back over the line repeatedly, cutting it a little deeper each time, until the pieces separate.

Corner Cuts

For corner cuts that go around ductwork or other obstructions, draw the lines for the corner on tile with you straight-edge and pencil, marking exactly where the corner will go. Set the straight-edge on one of the two lines and cut it with your knife starting at the corner and moving off the edge of the piece. Cut as before, moving the knife repeatedly along the line, cutting deeper each time until it's all the way through. Move the straight-edge to the other line and repeat the process until the corner cutoff comes away.

Tags: ceiling tiles, deeper each, deeper each time, each time, each time until, time until

Disassemble A Ceiling Fan For Painting

When painting a room, sometimes it is necessary to disassemble the ceiling fan for proper paint coverage. On average, a fully-assembled ceiling fan weighs 15 to 50 pounds. Because of its weight, a ceiling fan must be disassembled in sections. Most ceiling fans are available with or without light kits. Globes or glass shades are used to cover the light bulbs on the bottom of the fan. When taking apart the ceiling fan, use caution when removing the globes or glass shades as they are extremely fragile.

Instructions

1. Turn off the power to the ceiling fan, at the circuit breaker, before starting.

2. Remove the light bulbs and globes. Unscrew three screws on each globe, that are holding the globe in place.

3. Remove the light kit. This is the section where the bulbs screw into the unit. Remove the screws on the top section. Pull down the light kit slowly and disconnect the wire nuts that are used to connect the lights to the unit.

4. Take off the fan blades by unscrewing the blade arm from the unit. The blade arm holds the blade and connects it to the unit.

5. Hold the canopy securely with one hand while unscrewing the four screws that hold the canopy in place. Use a firm grip on the canopy to ensure that it will not fall down. After all of the screws are removed, pull down the canopy.

6. Keep the fan parts together to ensure proper reassembly. Store all of the parts in another room to avoid paint damage.

Tags: glass shades, light bulbs, Remove light

Painting The Living Room Ceiling And Walls In One Color

In some living rooms, walls and ceiling in the same color makes sense.

Planning to paint the living room ceiling and walls the same color brings back memories for many homeowners. A student room, the first apartment, even a first home may have benefited from just such a strategy, covering the evidence of frequent occupancy and teaching the new resident to paint all at the same time. While student days may be in the past, the one-color approach still makes sense in a variety of situations.

Instructions

1. Experiment with color use before deciding on a single-color strategy. Several paint companies and online design sites let you try out virtual color schemes. See the impact an all-over color choice is likely to have on your room. You can also explore using trim colors to reinforce or contrast with your all-over look.

2. Remember basic color design theory. Light colors tend to make spaces look larger, and dark colors tend to make them look smaller. Light colors reflect light, while dark colors absorb it. If you are painting both walls and ceiling the same color, position a number of color swatches in your room, high and low. Notice how both natural and artificial light function in your space with this color.

3. Use the all-over strategy in hard-to-handle spaces. A single color will help a room with lots of angles, sloping ceilings or awkward dormers. Rooms dominated by staircases or very high ceilings also benefit from the softening effects of an all-over color scheme.

4. Combine all-over wall and ceiling color with a contrasting trim color to produce crisper definition of a space. This strategy can be particularly effective in rooms with lots of detail in woodwork and moldings.

Tags: same color, all-over color, ceiling same, ceiling same color, colors tend, colors tend make, dark colors

Ideas For Floor Lamps

Floor lamps come in a broad array of styles.

Floor lamps are used in a variety of ways to enhance your home's decor. The lamps are simple to install as you can plug them into any existing outlet, and they come in a broad range of styles. Floor lamps are also ideal for renters, college students and frequent movers who can take floor lamps with them when moving rather than dealing with landlord permissions for installed fixtures, having to give up permanent fixtures when leaving a rental home.

Diffused Lighting

Use your floor lamp for general room lighting while softening its impact on your decor. Place a floor lamp with multiple adjustable heads in one corner of the room, and place a folding screen with translucent panels in front of the lamp. Ensure the screen is slightly taller than the lamp, and aim one head straight up at the ceiling and any remaining heads at the walls behind the lamp. The ceiling light will give the room a soft ambient glow or may even provide enough general lighting, depending on your fixture and bulbs. The other heads will give the screen a bright glow that will diffuse throughout the room to create a bright focal point that can add a sunny feel to the room on cloudy days.

Multipurpose Furniture

Some floor lamps come with multiple functions, but you can modify almost any floor lamp to create a more useful piece of furniture. For straight, tall floor lamps, add functionality by attaching a square or circle of painted plywood about 18 inches above the floor as a tabletop. Place the lamp by your couch to provide a handy reading light with an end table, but ensure your lamp base is sturdy enough to handle the table and any items placed on it. You can decorate metal lamp posts with magnets and make your floor lamp into the family message center, but keep any flammable materials like paper well away from the bulbs.

Add Control

Place your floor lamp where it is most beneficial to the room, such as near a reading area, and add a remote control switch so you can turn it on from the entryway without stumbling across to the lamp in the dark. Remote switches are available at hardware and some department stores. They include a unit that plugs into your wall outlet, and the lamp plugs into the unit. Place a wireless switch that controls the wall unit anywhere within the room as long as the signal isn't blocked. Many wall switches are almost indiscernible from a standard modern wall switch, so you don't have to sacrifice design for floor lamp control.

Tags: floor lamp, floor lamps, Floor lamps, your floor, your floor lamp, come broad

Decorate A Living Room Floor

Your living room floor is the base of the room's decor, providing the foundation to build upon. Many people neglect their floors, which can leave the room feeling bare, unfinished or even worse, distract from the rest of the decor. Choose your colors, theme and purpose for your living room before deciding decorate the floor. It can complement the rest of the room or serve as the focal point, depending on your preference.

Instructions

1. Look through interior design magazines or websites. Cut out or print out pictures of living rooms you like the most. Save these in a folder to look through before you make any decisions. Once you've compiled your folder, go through the pictures and note the flooring in the majority of pictures you saved. This will guide you in deciding decorate your own living room floor.

2. Use concrete floors if you want an ultra-contemporary or trendy room. Paint directly onto the floor to add color or designs that can be inexpensively changed, if you desire.

3. Install wood floors to create the look and feel you want. Wood can be dark, light or in between in various widths of planks, finished or unfinished, or made to look aged. Less expensive options are available, such as wood laminate. If you want your floor to be the focal point of your living room, opt for an intricate design, pattern or motif in the center of your floor using stains or colors of wood.

4. Choose tile for your floor if you don't want wood, or carpet or if your living room tends to house pets, children and messes. Tile generally cleans easily and can be covered with an area rug if you desire something different at a later time.

5. Opt for wall-to-wall carpet if you don't like bare floors, or compromise by using a plush area rug. Placing a decorative area rug in the center of a furniture grouping creates a conversation area, gives you more decor options and can add to a sophisticated or formal living room with hardwood floors peaking out around the edges and walkways.

Tags: living room, your floor, your living, deciding decorate, focal point, living room floor

Remove A Popcorn Ceiling & Increase Home Value

Popcorn ceiling texture removal generates tremendous amounts of dust. Wear a dust mask or respirator mask to protect your lungs.

Popcorn ceiling texture, an acoustical application, was used in the '60s and '70s as a way to inexpensively give a ceiling a textured look. Due to the ease of application and the ability to cover up any flaws in the ceiling, including flaws in workmanship, carpenters and home owners used it often. The textured ceiling is hard to clean and today's homeowners, buyers and sellers alike, groan whenever a popcorn ceiling is addressed. The removal of popcorn ceiling texture is a messy and, if it contains asbestos, a dangerous undertaking that can only improve your home's value once it's removed. (See Reference 1)

Instructions

1. Decide if you really want to tackle this project on your own or if you should hire a professional removal company. The physical demand of working above your head for hours on end is sometimes worth the extra money to hire professionals. Dangers of breathing dust that may contain asbestos, as well as the damage to your home's drywall if removal is done improperly, poses health risks as well as risks to your wallet. (See Reference 1)

2. Test the popcorn texture for asbestos before starting your project. To do this, spray a small area of the ceiling with water and use putty knife to scrape off a square inch of the texture into a baggie. Seal the baggie and send to an asbestos testing lab, which can be located in the yellow pages of your local phone book. If your ceiling contains asbestos, then some areas require professional removal. Check with your local building inspector for laws concern asbestos removal. (See Reference 2)

3. Prepare the room by removing all furniture. Tape off light switches and electrical sockets and lay out plastic sheeting to completely cover the flooring. Install plastic flaps for entryways over doors and windows. Staple or tape plastic sheeting from the top of the walls to the floor and tape the wall plastic to the flooring plastic. This will help you keep the dust contained as you remove the popcorn texture. Lay a second layer of flooring plastic in overlapping sections but do not tape this layer together. (See Reference 2)

4. Shut off air conditioning or ventilation systems to further contain the dust being released into the air. Popcorn texture is composed of drywall compound and bits of Styrofoam and as it is scraped, fine particles of dust could invade your entire home. (See Reference 2)

5. Wrap rags around the legs of the stepladder to prevent the legs from tearing the plastic as you move the ladder around the room. (See Reference 2)

6. Suit up into protective gear. Overalls, boots, head covering, gloves, face mask and eye protection are all a must when removing popcorn ceiling texture. (See Reference 1)

7. In a tank sprayer, mix 1 cup dish detergent with 5 gallons of water. Spray the ceiling with the mixture and allow water to penetrate the popcorn texture, waiting about 20 minutes. Test to see if the mixture has fully penetrated the texture by scraping a small section. If the popcorn texture is not fully wet, then respray and wait an additional 15 minutes. (See Reference 2)

8. Scrape the popcorn texture off the ceiling once it is fully saturated with the soap and water mixture. Use the bladed putty knife to scrape the texture. Allow the texture to fall onto the plastic, as you will be using it to help clean up after the process is complete. (See Reference 2)

9. Wrap the loose plastic around the debris when you are done scraping the popcorn texture off the ceiling. Dispose of plastic and debris together. (See Reference 2)

10. Refinish the ceiling before removing the plastic from the walls and the floor. Remove the wall and floor covering by rolling to capture any debris remaining on the plastic. Wipe walls, trim, doors and windows with wet rags to clean up any dust that escaped the plastic coverings. (See Reference 2)

Tags: popcorn texture, ceiling texture, ceiling with, contains asbestos, doors windows, dust that, flooring plastic

Fix Peeling Paint On A Textured Ceiling

Repair peeling paint from a textured ceiling after addressing the underlying cause.

Textured ceilings are difficult to fix because if you try to scrape away peeling paint, the texture can come away with it. Peeling paint can often be caused by moisture problems or extreme climate changes, so fix any problems that were causing the paint to peel before attempting to fix the paint itself or it will likely just peel again. This is often accomplished by either insulating the attic above the ceiling or installing ventilation in that attic. A local contractor can help you assess what is causing the paint to peel, and once the cause is fixed, you can easily take care of the ceiling.

Instructions

1. Scrub the area where the paint is peeling with a stiff-bristled brush. Rub in circles to rid the ceiling of all loose paint and smooth any peeling edges. Don't worry if some of the texture comes off along with the paint.

2. Shake a can of textured spray ceiling patch and spray it onto the affected area. Spray around the area as well to blend with the surrounding texture. Textured ceiling sprays are available at most major home improvement stores and some paint stores. For white ceilings, the spray may be all you need. Many stores have a variety of textures available.

3. Vacuum the entire ceiling using the hose attachment of your vacuum to remove any loose texture, dust and cobwebs.

4. Place a roller pad with 1/2 inch or thicker nap on a paint roller and use it to paint the entire ceiling to ensure a uniform color if the spray patch did not match your ceiling paint. To reach the corners where the roller won't fit, dab the paint onto the texture with a paintbrush rather than brushing it on. This allows the bristles to reach into the gaps around the texture.

Tags: causing paint, causing paint peel, entire ceiling, paint peel, peeling paint

Ideas For A Tile Bathroom With White Subway Tiles & Border

Warm colors soften a white tile bathroom.

Subway tiles have a long rectangular shape like a brick and are installed one row at a time. Each row usually is offset from the row above and beneath it. If your bathroom has white subway tiles and tile borders, you can spruce up the room with carefully chosen colors, lighting, hardware and cabinetry. White subway tiles are bright and fresh, but some earth-tone accessories can warm up your room design.

Wood Cabinetry

To detract from the stark white subway-tiled walls and border, add wood cabinetry to the bathroom design. Choose hardwood that has a soft warm vibe like maple, birch, or natural oak. Avoid wood cabinetry that is too dark like ebony or walnut if you don't want your bathroom to have a black-and-white effect.

Modern Hardware

Select modern hardware that complements your white subway tile and border. For a contemporary look, choose a brushed nickel towel rack or a shiny silver-framed sink mirror. To harmonize with a rustic or country motif, opt for wrought iron handles or knobs for your cabinetry. Select a stainless steel showerhead and sink faucet for a streamlined, stylish look.

Earth-Tone Accessories

Add earth-tone accessories to the bathroom design to contrast with a crisp, cool white subway tiles and border. Choose soft plush decorative towels in chocolate brown, mocha or deep gold and place them in visible areas in the room. Purchase a sheer brown or tan shower curtain that has a solid uniform color, a simple stripe or a small pattern. Add a cushy throw rug to the center of the room.

Warm Lighting

Incorporate warm lighting into your bathroom design by using 40-watt or 60-watt soft white bulbs in your light fixtures. Avoid high-watt halogen or fluorescent bulbs that make a white bathroom feel stark and cold. If you have a vaulted ceiling, purchase a brushed nickel or wrought iron chandelier with low-watt exposed bulbs. Place candles around the bathroom and install a dimmer switch for your overhead lighting. If you have a large bathroom, you can install recessed lighting in the ceiling.

Tags: bathroom design, your bathroom, bathroom install, brushed nickel, subway tiles, white subway tiles, wood cabinetry

Mount A Projector Screen To A Wall

Projectors are a popular choice among home theater enthusiasts and are also common in office conference rooms.

The latest models of projectors offer high-definition picture quality that rivals leading flat screen televisions and easily dwarfs their picture size, commonly projecting screen sizes that measure more than 110 inches diagonally. White or slightly gray walls will reproduce the image nicely, but to really take advantage of a high-definition projector's image quality, a front-projection screen mounted to a wall is essential.

Instructions

1. Consult the projector's manual to determine how far from the screen your projector should sit.

2. Use a tape measure to determine the appropriate height for the wall mounts. They should sit quite close to the ceiling to take advantage of the projector screen's large size.

3. Drag the stud sensor over the wall upon which you will mount the projector screen. When it beeps, it has found part of the stud wall. Make a small mark on this area with a pencil.

4. Measure the width of the screen with the tape measure and locate approximately where the second mounting bracket should sit.

5. Drag the stud sensor across the wall in this area, and again mark the wall with your pencil where the stud sensor beeps.

6. Use a laser level to ensure both pencil marks are directly across from each other, as well as parallel to the ceiling. This will prevent the screen from hanging crookedly.

7. Use a screwdriver or screw gun to fasten the mounting brackets into the stud wall, using your pencil marks as guides.

8. Lift the projector screen onto the wall mounts and lower it until it clicks into place.

Tags: stud sensor, Drag stud, Drag stud sensor, pencil marks, projector screen

Carpentry Trimming Tools

Carpentry tools

Finish carpentry requires a large amount of precise measuring and cutting, and the skill involved is enormous. However, the skill of a carpenter is only matched by the tools that he has to use. Trimming carpentry tools are especially important in producing the finished project. There are a few must-have trimming tools that every carpenter should possess.

Wood Files

Wood files

Wood files are rough metal sticks used in a back-and-forth rubbing motion to take small amounts of wood off for fine tuning. This is often used in cabinetry and furniture making to smooth off rough edges or finish mortise and tenon joints.

Coping Saw

Coping saw blades

A coping saw is a saw with a fine toothed, thin blade. This is used primarily for finishing trim and intricate molding work. The profile of a piece of trim is traced on the face of another piece of trim, and the profile is cut out with the coping saw. This makes for a perfect corner and was the primary way of performing trim cuts before miter saws became popular.

Hand Plane

Hand plane

A hand plane is a tool that shaves small amounts of wood off at a time by pushing it along the face or edge of the wood. The blade of the hand plane comes out of a slot in the center of the plane and projects from the bottom of the plane a short distance. This tool is used to flatten the edges of board to get them ready to join or to take off a small amount of wood that would take too long to sand.

Tags: amounts wood, hand plane, piece trim, small amounts, small amounts wood

Install A Ceiling Fan With Lights

Lighted ceiling fans are multi-functional. They serve the purpose of beautifying a room while providing a cool breeze and central lighting that reaches farther than light from a table lamp, which only benefits the person sitting right beside it. Lighted ceiling fans are a little more difficult to install than regular ceiling fans because you have to wire the light fitter kit to the regular fan, but with an assistant to help you with the weight of the fan, the installation shouldn't take more than 1 hour.

Instructions

1. Before you begin working on electrical wiring, you should turn off the light switch and the circuit breaker in the room in which the ceiling fan will be installed. Try to install the ceiling fan during the daytime so you can open a window for natural light. If you're doing the installation during the night, get as much light as you can from other rooms as possible, and having a spotlight will be a tremendous help.

2. Remove the cover of the outlet box on the ceiling and expose the wires you'll use to connect the fan. This is normally done with a Phillips screwdriver, but if you don't have one, a flathead screwdriver will work.

3. Using the screws that you just removed from the outlet box cover, connect the ceiling fan's mounting bracket to the outlet box. If you're installing the fan on an angled wall, see that the open end of the mounting bracket is turned toward the higher side of the ceiling. If it's turned toward the lower side, the fan blades will hit the ceiling when they're installed.

4. On the ceiling fan motor, take out the motor screws and washers from the bottom of the motor.

5. Decide whether you want to use a short downrod or a long one. A long downrod is only used for high ceilings. Once you've decided, push the wires from the top of the motor up through the downrod, slide the canopy (the part of the ceiling fan that covers the mounting bracket) over the downrod with the open side facing upward and then slide the yoke cover (the part of the ceiling fan that covers the screws at the bottom end of the downrod) over the downrod with the open side facing downward.

6. Take out the pin and the clip that holds the pin at the top of the motor and slide the downrod into the motor. Once the downrod is in the motor, slide the pin back into place and lock the downrod and the motor together with the holding clip.

7. Hang the downrod on the mounting bracket and ensure that it is secure before moving on to the next section.

8. Use a wire connector to connect the wire that is attached to the mounting bracket to the ground wire from the outlet box. The ground wire will be either green or copper. All you have to do is take the ends of the wires and hold them together, put the wire connector over the two wires and turn it clockwise until it can't move anymore.

9. Connect the black power wire from the outlet box and the black and blue wires from the fan motor together if you want the fan and the lights controlled by the chains on the fan.

Alternately, there may be a red wire in the outlet box, which means that you can connect it to the blue wire to have the fan and the light controlled by different light switches.

10. Connect the white wire from the outlet box to the white wire from the fan motor.

11. Make sure none of the wires are exposed before moving on to the next step. If they are, remove the wire connectors and connect them again.

12. Slide the canopy on the downrod up to the ceiling to cover the mounting bracket and insert screws through the holes on the canopy and the mounting bracket to secure it.

13. Attach the ceiling fan blade arms to the ceiling fan blades with blade screws and washers.

14. Attach the fan blade arms to the fan motor with the motor screws and washers that you removed in Step 4 in the first section.

15. Connect the wire from the fan motor to the wire from the light kit fitter.

16. Attach the light kit fitter to the fan motor by aligning the holes in the motor with the holes in the light kit fitter and inserting screws to hold it in place.

17.Install the light bulb(s) on the light kit.

18. Push the light shade up until the threaded end of the light kit and the pull chain sticks out of the bottom and then thread the center cap onto the bottom of the light shade. Attach the end of the pull chain to finish the installation of the ceiling fan. Turn on the circuit breaker and the light switch, and make sure everything is working. Clean up your mess and admire your work.

Tags: mounting bracket, wire from, from motor, from outlet, light fitter, ceiling fans

Ideas For Arranging Living Room Furniture

Ideas for Arranging Living Room Furniture

Family and friends gather in the living room to socialize, enjoy entertainment and relax. A living room should make everyone feel welcome and comfortable for whatever activity they engage in. Furniture arrangement determines how well a living room functions. Designing an effective furniture arrangement requires good planning. Consider your specific needs when designing the furniture arrangement for your living room.

Casual Seating

A living room with a casual environment should include plenty of comfortable seating. If your casual living room features a fireplace, you might want to place oversize pillows in a place where they can be easily retrieved for lounging on the floor. Instead of using a coffee table between two sofas, consider using an oversize ottoman. You may place a tray on the ottoman to hold drinks, and when it is needed for additional seating, simply remove the tray. If the living room features a television, arrange the seating in a "J" shape so all may easily view the television. In a smaller living room, consider replacing the traditional sofa and love seat arrangement with a grouping of four chairs facing each other so they can be used for conversation.

Large Rooms

Divide large living rooms into separate areas to create small conversation areas. Orient the furniture so that the focal point of the room, whether it's a television, fireplace or awesome view, can be enjoyed from most seating in the room. Large living areas allow the furniture arrangement to be pulled from the wall or the furniture groupings to be placed on the diagonal to create visual interest. It is a good idea to anchor each seating area with a rug. Using the same style of rug ties the areas together, creating continuity in the layout. Include a table to be used to hold drinks in each area. Placing a game area that includes a card table away from the television will make it easier for those playing games to converse freely without fear of interrupting television viewing. If the living room flows into a dining room, place a sofa table or room divider to distinguish the two areas.

Reading Areas

A reading area in a living room provides a spot to enjoy either a good novel or quiet reflection. Take advantage of a cozy corner or a light-filled bay window for this purpose. A couple of large armchairs can share a table and lamp. To create extra comfort, include an ottoman for resting the feet. In a larger reading area, place bookshelves on the wall to create a library atmosphere.

Tags: living room, furniture arrangement, Arranging Living, Arranging Living Room, hold drinks, Ideas Arranging

Mount A Motionsensor Light On The Ceiling

A motion-sensor light is activated when something moves across the sensor's field of vision. This means you can install a ceiling light that is activated without the need for a light switch. Mounting a motion-sensor light on the ceiling requires substituting it for the light fixture that is currently in place. A few tools found around the house are needed, but you need no special electrical skills.

Instructions

1. Pull the fuse or trip the circuit breaker that supplies electrical power to the ceiling light. Place a ladder beneath the light fixture that will be replaced by the motion-sensor light.

2. Remove the screws from around the fixture, using a Phillips screwdriver. Pull the fixture off the ceiling.

3. Pull the wiring out of the hole that was covered by the fixture. Untwist the screw-type wire connectors that are twisted around the joined pairs of wires by turning the connectors counterclockwise. This will separate the wires that connect the fixture to electrical service.

4. Twist together the exposed ends of the white wires from the electrical box in the ceiling and the motion-sensor light. Twist a screw-type wire connector to secure and insulate the joined wires.

5. Twist together the black wire from the motion-sensor light and the black wire from the electrical box, and twist on a screw-type wire connector.

6. Wind the remaining wire from the motion-sensor light around the copper-colored or uninsulated wire coming from the electrical junction box. Twist a screw-type wire connector over the two wires.

7. Push all the wires into the electrical box. Place the base of the motion-sensor light over the hole in the ceiling. Screw wood screws through the holes in the sides of the motion-sensor light and into the ceiling with a Phillips screwdriver. Screw a bulb into the light socket on the motion-sensor light. Return the electrical power to the circuit. Turn the light switch on to provide current to the motion-sensor light.

Tags: motion-sensor light, screw-type wire, from electrical, screw-type wire connector, wire connector, wire from

Use Fence Tbar Clips

Install a clip on a T-post with a clip installation tool.

Fence T-bar clips are designed to be used on metal T-bar posts and wire fence including barbed wire. Suitable for use when establishing a livestock or property boundary, T-bar clips can be an attractive solution compared to twisted wire for securing wire to a T-post. A clip installation tool, used to attach the clip to the T-post, saves time and can speed up the fence installation process.

Instructions

1. Determine the height on the T-post at which the fence wire will be installed. Consider the intended purpose of the fence and choose a height at the top, middle or bottom of the post for installation.

2. Insert a fence clip into the jaws of the clip installation tool. Close the jaws slightly so that the clip is held securely in place.

3. Position the jaws of the clip installation tool, with clip attached, around the T-post in the desired installation position.

4. Close the jaws of the clip installation tool together to crimp the clip around the T-post. Securely attach the clip to the post so that it will not slip up or down over time.

5. Open the jaws of the installation tool and remove it from around the T-post.

6. Place a strand of wire between the top and bottom tap of the clip. Hold the wire in place and insert the point of a nail down through the hole in the top tab, across the wire and through the hole in the bottom tab.

Tags: installation tool, clip installation, clip installation tool, around T-post, jaws clip, jaws clip installation, attach clip

Light A Glass Block Wall With Led

Light glass blocks with bright LED lights.

Glass blocks can add a modern or contemporary feel to your home. Lighting the glass blocks can give them a dramatic affect. You can easily achieve this by installing LED rope lighting. Use LED lights rather than regular bulbs because LED lights will last longer and burn brighter than regular bulbs. This way, you don't need to replace the rope light as often. Purchase LED rope lighting at a home improvement or hardware store.

Instructions

1. Spray the glass black wall with window cleaner.

2. Wipe off the window cleaner to remove as much of the dust, dirt and other debris that may be on the glass block wall. This will allow the adhesive hooks to adhere to the wall better.

3. Allow the wall to air dry for several minutes.

4. Remove the paper backing of an adhesive hook and press it on the edge of the glass block wall.

5. Continue removing the paper backing and pressing the hooks on the edge of the glass wall until you have a long line where you would like to hang the LED lights. Space the hooks 2 to 3 inches apart.

6. Let the adhesive cure for several hours.

7. Plug the LED rope light in and place it in the hooks to see how it looks and for placement.

8. Unplug the LED rope light and leave the rope light in the hooks.

9. Clip the other end of the rope light so that it doesn't hang over off of the hooks. Clip in between two lights using a pair of sharp scissors.

10. Slip an end cap over the cut end of the rope light.

Tags: rope light, block wall, edge glass, glass block, glass blocks, hooks Clip, paper backing

Plan If You Need Longterm Care At Home Or In A Nursing Home

Dicussing long-term care before the need arises is important.

People do not like to think of long-term care needs for the elderly, either for themselves or for their family members. However, discussing and researching available options before care is needed will help ensure that rash decisions are not made. By planning out long-term care and finance it beforehand, everyone will be more comfortable when and if the need arises for such services.

Instructions

1. Write out possible future scenarios and what may happen to you or your elderly family members. Is there a common familial illness that needs to be considered? Are there any geographical locations you may want to reside in, such as one closer to family?

2. Research the types of care options that are available. These include home care, senior housing, assisted living and nursing homes. Medicare online has a long-term planning tool that can help an individual choose very specific options that meet her criteria.

3. Calculate costs and finances. Do you plan on utilizing savings? What will insurance or medicare cover? Consider purchasing long-term care insurance through the American Association of Retired Persons (AARP) or another respected agency.

4. Visit long-term care facilities in the geographical area in which you want to reside. This is a good way to get an idea about what senior housing, assisted living facilities or nursing homes actually provide. Call ahead of time and ask for a tour.

5. Coordinate a meeting with any family members who could be involved in long-term care decisions. It is important to begin this discussion before the need actually arises. Some adult children may want to care for their parents at home, but would like to set up some kind of payment plan beforehand. Other elderly family members may be adamantly opposed to certain types of institutionalized care. Discuss these types of concerns and visit an estate planning attorney if necessary.

6. Obtain or create a living will, which can be printed out from the Internet or filled out at an attorney's office. Living wills can assist with long-term care planning as they express what types of life-saving measures you find acceptable. Make sure family members know where your living will is located so they can find it in case of emergency.

Tags: long-term care, family members, assisted living, before need, elderly family, elderly family members

Install Ceiling Lights In Old Homes

Hang a ceiling light from a firmly-attached electrical box.

Two likely problems during ceiling light installations in an old home are house wiring that does not include a ground wire and an existing electrical box that is not attached to a rafter. In the first case, you can run a ground wire from the fixture to an available cold-water pipe or to a ground rod outside the house. In the second, you may have to install a new electrical box, depending on the weight of the lamp you are installing.

Instructions

1. Turn the power to the circuit off at the breaker.

2. Install a light fixture electrical box. Cut a hole in the drywall large enough for the box and attach the box to a rafter. If the light fixture weighs less than 5 lbs., you may use a remodeling box. Fit the remodeling box into the hole and hook the attaching screws to the drywall, then tighten them with a screwdriver.

3. Run the house wire through the ceiling to the electrical box and feed it through one of the holes in the box.

4. Install a separate ground wire if your house has two-strand wire. Run the ground wire from the box to a nearby metal cold-water pipe and attach it to the pipe with a wire clamp. If your house has plastic plumbing pipes, run the ground wire outside and attach it to a ground rod pounded 8 feet into the ground.

5. Remove about 6 inches of sheathing from the house wire with a utility knife and separate the wires. Use a wire splicing tool to remove 1/2 inch of insulation from the ends of the black and white conductors. Hold the white wire from the house together with the white wire of the lamp so the ends are parallel and twist them together, then cap them with one of the twist-on connectors that came with the light. Repeat with the black wires. Twist the ground wires together and connect them to the electrical box if it is metal.

6. Attach the adaptor plate that came with the light fixture to the electrical box with the screws provided. Then push the wires into the box, lift the lamp into place, and attach it to the adaptor plate, again using the screws that came with the light.

7. Turn the power on and test the light.

Tags: ground wire, came with, came with light, light fixture, that came, that came with, wire from

Paint Cardboard Ceiling Tiles

Set up a ladder so you can reach the ceiling tiles.

Today, ceiling tiles are made of several materials including recycled material, fiberglass, wood and metal. If you have old tiles on one or more of your ceilings, they're likely made of cardboard. Years ago, that was the commonly-used material. Cardboard ceiling tiles can become soiled and stained over time. To revive them, and make them look bright and white like new again, you can easily apply a coat of paint.

Instructions

1. Spread a dropcloth out on the floor or on a clean surface outside. Set the ladder up underneath the ceiling tiles you're going to remove first. Climb up the ladder.

2. Lift up on the first tile you want to remove, according to Painter Click. Turn it on its edge until you can slide it out of the suspended grid. Continue this step with the remaining tiles.

3. Spread the cardboard ceiling tiles out on the dropcloth with their exposed sides (the sides you see when they're hung in the grid) facing up.

4. Pour some wall paint into a pan. Dip and roll the paint roller into the pan; begin painting the cardboard ceiling tiles. Apply even coats to each tile, according to Painter Click. Don't paint the edges, just the exposed sides. Allow the paint to dry thoroughly before you reinstall the tiles into the ceiling grid, following the recommended drying time on the paint can.

Tags: ceiling tiles, according Painter, according Painter Click, cardboard ceiling, exposed sides, Painter Click

Decorate A Small Living Room Elegantly

Small living rooms are usually overcrowded or devoid of decorations. Your small living room does not have to feel crowded and uncomfortable, or empty and boring. In fact, your small living room can have all of the drama and excitement of a larger room. Regardless of how little space you have, you can still create an elegant living room with minimal space.

Instructions

1. Start with the wall color. The best known colors for making a room appear bright and airy are cool, soft tones of blue and green. Of course you can use other colors as well, but you need to stay in the lighter tones and avoid dark, rich colors as they make rooms more intimate. For small rooms, intimate is not a good thing.

2. Keep furniture to a minimum. Your small elegant living room should have one major piece of furniture, and the rest should be on a smaller scale. For example, you can use one full-sized sofa and pair it with simple wooden chairs and small simple tables. By having one substantial piece of furniture, your room seems more put together. By having the other pieces be smaller and lighter, you avoid overcrowding the room.

3. Hang art and wall sconces to avoid clutter on shelves and tables. You can also install decorative shelves on the walls, to get your accessories off of table tops and out of the way.

4. Keep window treatments light. When working with a small room, you will want to let as much natural light in as usual. For this reason, the best window treatment is translucent shades and a simple swag window treatment or topper.

5. Use mirrors to make your small living appear larger. While mirrors can make a space appear more expansive, you should avoid hanging too many mirrors in your living room. One mirror with an elegant frame hung in place of painted art is sufficient. For an elegant touch, you may want to go for mirrored tables and accessories instead.

Tags: living room, small living, elegant living, elegant living room, living room

Whitewash Wood Panels

Wood panels that are ready to be whitewashed.

Old wood panels can be instantly updated with a good paint job. Whitewashing wood panels can take old or worn panels and give them new life. Whitewashing also adds a rustic cottage charm to wood panels. With a little bit of white paint homeowners can whitewash their own wood panels.

Instructions

1. Clean the wood panels with a mixture of water and dish detergent. Wipe the panels down with a clean rag or sponge. This will help to clean the panels and better prepare them for painting.

2. Lightly sand the wood panels with fine grit sandpaper. Using an electric hand sander will speed up the process. You do not need to completely sand the wood panels, just enough to "roughen up" the surface of the panels in preparation for the paint. Once you have finished sanding, vacuum the panels and wipe them with a tack cloth.

3. Decide what kind of whitewash finish you want for your wood panels. Applying an opaque whitewash finish will require a different painting technique than a pickled finish where the wood grain shows through the paint.

4. Apply a thin coat of latex painting primer to the wood panels with a paintbrush. Brush the primer onto the panels and allow it to dry completely. If you want to see the wood grain show through the paint you may want to skip this step and not apply the primer.

5. Paint the wood panels with white latex paint. For a whitewashed appearance, apply the paint with a paint brush in several thin coats, letting each coat dry before applying the next.

6. Allow the wood panels to dry for 24 hours before returning furniture and artwork to the room. Do not apply a polyurethane finish to the panels as the finish may yellow the whitewash finish over time.

Tags: wood panels, wood panels, whitewash finish, wood panels with, panels with, panels with

Cut Plastic Panels For Kitchen Fluorescent Lights

A C-clamp will hold your panel in place when you cut it.

Fluorescent lights provide energy efficient bright white light to your kitchen. Modern fluorescent fixtures may be placed above dropped ceilings or flush-mounted to standard ceilings. A variety of acrylic panels are available to fit these fixtures. The panels diffuse the light and provide a uniform look to the fixture, but only if the plastic fits properly. Plastic lighting panels are thin so they remain lightweight and able to transmit more light. This means they are thin enough to cut with a household utility knife, as long as you work carefully and prepare the plastic properly.

Instructions

1. Lay out your lighting panel on a workbench so the smoothest side faces upward. Set a straight edge along the panel where you want to make your cut and draw a line with a dry erase marker. Set the straight edge aside.

2. Tape along one side of your line with masking tape. Pull the tape tightly and pressing it firmly to the plastic. Wrap the tape all the way around the back side of the panel, following along the same line, until you have covered the front and back of the panel with two layers of masking tape precisely along one side of your line. Repeat the process with the other side of your line, so you only leave about 1/16 of an inch for your cut line. This can reduce the risk of cracking and chipping the acrylic, which can appear unsightly in kitchen fixtures.

3. Press the straight edge along one side of your cut line and drag a utility knife down the full length of the cut about eight times. Use moderate pressure and keep passing the knife along the line until you have cut a little more than halfway through the panel.

4. Place part of the panel you want to keep for your fluorescent light on a work table. Line up your cut with the table edge so the part you are cutting off hangs off the table.

5. Place a piece of 2 by 4 lumber on the table side of your cut so it runs along the full length of your kitchen light panel plus a few inches beyond each end. Clamp this lumber to the table with a C-clamp on each end to provide even pressure that will hold your panel in place.

6. Put sharp pressure on the excess portion of the light panel until it snaps off at your cut line.

7. Remove the C-clamps and masking tape and wipe off any remaining marker with a tissue.

Tags: your line, side your, side your line, along side, along side your

Ideas For Decorating The Top Space Of Kitchen Cabinets

Colorful pottery is striking when placed on the top of kitchen cabinets.

The cabinets are usually the largest part of any kitchen. Some kitchens have cabinets that are designed to be flush with the ceiling. Others have cabinets that do not go all the way to the ceiling. This leaves a space of about a foot or more between the top of the cabinets and the ceiling. This space is perfect for a number of decorating ideas.

Pottery or Dishes

Pottery is an excellent choice for decor on the tops of cabinets. The location keeps it safe from little hands that could break it, and many pieces of pottery are large and colorful enough to be easily seen, even if your cabinets are tall. Choose pieces that are distinctive enough to make a statement on their own, or place several smaller but similar pieces together in two or three groups. Or, display your grandmother's collection of decorative plates on vertical plate stands.

Green Plants

Green silk foliage plants add a fresh, natural touch to any kitchen. In fact, if your kitchen gets enough natural light, you could use live plants as well. In that case, choose plants that thrive in low light conditions, such as dracaenas. Low, spreading plants such as ivy work better to fill the space on top of cabinets rather than tall, slender plants. Cacti, planted in colorful pots, look especially stunning in a Southwestern-style kitchen. Silk flower arrangements can also be used to decorate the top of kitchen cabinets.

Other Ideas

There are many other items that can be used to decorate the tops of kitchen cabinets. In fact, you are limited only by size and imagination. If your kitchen is decorated in the country style, try placing wicker or wood baskets of different shapes and sizes along the tops of your cabinets. Or, use a theme, such as birdhouses. Old milk bottles, antique hand-held coffee bean grinders, vintage signs and collectible kitchen tools are also perfect in a cozy country kitchen.

Tags: kitchen cabinets, cabinets that, ceiling This, have cabinets, have cabinets that

What Kind Of Light Do You Put On A Vaulted Bathroom'S Ceiling

Recessed lighting provides illumination in a bathroom.

Modern bathrooms are often designed with vaulted ceilings to maximize the visual space in the room. A skylight is often installed to provide additional natural light in the room. If your vaulted-ceiling in your bathroom does not have a skylight and you wish to install a light fixture, several decorative illumination ideas will make your bathroom bright and cheerful.

Chandelier

A chandelier is an attractive addition to a bathroom design. Due to the long chain and neck of a chandelier, you need a vaulted ceiling to accommodate the size of the fixture. Select a wrought-iron chandelier with exposed bulbs for a country or rustic bathroom design. Opt for a brushed nickel or silver chandelier with glass lamp shades for a modern appeal. Use a traditional chandelier with glass prisms if you want a formal bathroom motif.

Recessed Lighting

If you want to be able to control the amount of light in your bathroom, install recessed lighting with a dimmer switch. Depending on the surface area of your ceiling, you can install two or three recessed lights or a dozen or more to make your bathroom bright and cheerful. A dimmer switch allows you to control the amount of illumination you need depending on the time of day and your personal bathroom preferences.

Ceiling Fan

A large vaulted ceiling in a bathroom allows you to incorporate a ceiling fan into the room design. Select a ceiling fan with lights that face downward to add more illumination in the space. Opt for globes over the lights if you want to diffuse the light to make the bathroom feel warm and comfortable. However, If your vaulted ceiling is high and narrow, do not install a ceiling fan; the ceiling fan will make the space seem smaller and could overpower the small surface area.

Pendant Lighting

Pendant lighting is a common light source for bathrooms with vaulted ceilings. Place a pendant light one to two feet above the mirror over your sink area or six to eight feet above the floor. With a vaulted-ceiling design, pendant lighting expands the size of the bathroom and illuminates the perimeter of the room. Pendant lights come in wrought iron, brushed nickel, brass, silver and painted materials, with one or more bulbs, so you can choose a design that fits with your bathroom motif. An advantage to pendant lighting is that you can use it even if you have skylights. You can also install a dimmer switch to control the amount of illumination in the room.

Tags: your bathroom, chandelier with, control amount, dimmer switch, vaulted ceiling

Wire Clearance Lights

Clearance light fixture.

Updating an older home can be an expensive endeavor. Getting ceiling light fixtures on clearance can help to shave these costs. Installing the new clearance light fixtures is not that difficult, and should only take you an hour or less to do. The wiring is the most difficult part of the ceiling light installation as you need to match up the appropriate colors of wires to one another. Once the clearance light is wired in place it is easy to screw the light fixture to the electrical box.

Instructions

1. Locate the wires in the clearance light. Use wire strippers to remove about 1/2 inch of plastic sheathing from the ends of the wires. This will enable you to connect the wiring to the wiring in the electrical box.

2. Turn off the power to the current light fixture at the breaker box.

3. Remove the existing light fixture from the ceiling electrical box. Use a screwdriver to unscrew the canopy of the existing light. Lower the light fixture and disconnect the wiring. Untwist the wire nuts from the tops of the light fixture wires. Set the wire nuts aside. Finish lowering the light fixture from the ceiling.

4. Screw the mounting bracket or plate of the clearance light in place on the electrical box with a screwdriver.

5. Connect the wires of the clearance light fixture to the wires of the ceiling electrical box. Match the colors of wires together. Twist together the ends of the wires and screw a wire nut over the exposed ends.

6. Screw the clearance light fixture in place with a screwdriver. Turn on the power to the light fixture.

Tags: light fixture, clearance light, ceiling electrical, ceiling light, clearance light

Wire A Bathroom Fan And Light Independently

Wire a Bathroom Fan and Light Independently

Conserving electricity is not easy to do. Especially when there are so many small ways we unknowingly waste it. One such wasteful way is by having your bathroom exhaust fan and light wired to the same switch. Sure, you need the exhaust on while you're showering, but you don't need it on when you're simply brushing your teeth. By taking the time to wire each component independently--you can prevent the unnecessary waste of quite a bit of electricity over the course of a year. Here is do it.

Instructions

1. Turn off the circuit that delivers power to the bathroom exhaust fan/light.

2. Remove the cover plate from the existing switch. Remove the two screws that secure the switch to the wall box and gently pull the switch out using the top and bottom tabs.

3. Once the switch is out of the wall box, use your voltage tester to double-check that the power is definitely off. Loosen the terminals on the sides of the switch and remove the wires. Follow them back into the box so you know which set is going to the fan kit.

4. Remove the lens and light bulb from the light/exhaust fan assembly. Since most connection boxes for these units are located externally, you will have to unseat the unit from the ceiling joists. Access above the bathroom ceiling may be required in order to detach the exhaust fan.

5. With the ceiling fan free, position it so you have easy access to the connection box. Remove the cover plate. Inside, remove the wire connectors and separate the wires. Follow the leads to discover which wires feed the light and which ones feed the fan. Label them with a piece of tape so you don't forget.

6. Remove the existing feed wire from the fan's connection box.

7. If the existing feed leg is not stapled to the ceiling joists, you can tie the new cable to the existing one and pull it from the switch box to the exhaust fan's access hole. If the existing feed is stapled, then you will have to use a non-metallic fish to run the new line. If this is the case, you may have to cut an access hole in the ceiling and on the wall above where the switch is located to make it easier to run.

8. If you use the fish to run the wire, then make sure you cut away as much of the old wire so you don't accidentally wire it up to a live circuit at some point.

9. With the new wire run, strip away about 6 inches of outer sheathing on both ends using the ROMEX® stripper.

10. At the exhaust fan's connection box, insert the new cable through the connector on the box and secure the clamp down over a portion of the cable that still has the outer sheath on it. Use your wire strippers to remove about 3/4 inches from the ends of each individual wire.

11. Connect the white wire from the feed cable to the two white wires in the connection box. Connect all of the ground wires together. Connect the black wire from the feed cable to either the fan lead or the light lead and the red wire from the feed cable to the other.

12. Make sure all of the wire connectors are on tight and wrap a length of electrical tape around each set of wires. Replace the cover plate and resecure the exhaust fan assembly to the ceiling. Reinstall the light bulb and the cover lens.

13. Take the double pole toggle switch combo and loosen all of the terminals. On the left-hand side of the switch, connect the feed wire that is coming from the panel. On this side, the top terminal will be left empty, so just tighten down the terminal so it is not protruding unnecessarily.

14. On the right side of the switch, use needlenose pliers to remove the metal tab that bridges the two terminals.

15. Connect the black wire that is heading to the exhaust fan kit to one terminal and the red wire to the other terminal. Connect the white wire to the other white wire(s) in the box. Connect the ground wire with the other ground wire(s) in the box and use a spare piece of copper wire to make a pigtail. Connect the pigtail wire to the ground screw on the switch.

16. Wrap electrical tape around the switch so the terminals are covered and gently push all of the wires back into the box. Secure the switch to the box and install the new cover plate.

17.Turn the circuit back on and test out your independently wired bathroom light and exhaust fan. Now you can run the exhaust fan only when you need to and not every time you enter the bathroom.

Tags: cover plate, wire from, existing feed, feed cable, from feed, from feed cable

Decorate Ceiling Fans

A plain ceiling fan provides you with a great canvas to work with.

Although you can purchase a ceiling fan with a beautiful design, you can also design one yourself. It can help bring a unique, personalized touch to the room the fan is in. It also provides you with an opportunity to use your own colors and designs to create a fan exactly the way that you wish down to the very last detail.

Instructions

1. Choose the fan. The shape of the blades is important as it will help to showcase the pattern you want. The shape of the lights will also play a part in choosing the correct fan. Choose one that allows enough space for you to paint your design and that doesn't have too much metal detailing, if any at all. It should also not already have a pattern on it.

2. Pick the colors you want to use. They are important as you can plan your design and incorporate the colors that you want. They should complement the other shades and décor in the room.

3. Plan the design. Before you start painting the design, it is best to draw it out on paper so you can make any edits you desire. Use paper that is the size of the blade of the fan so you can get a correct measurement and get an idea of what the final design will look like. There are many types of designs to consider; you can do something elaborate such as a landscape painting or a pattern such as stripes or polka dots.

4. Sketch and paint your design. If you aren't great at painting freehand, you can use a stencil. Use a pencil to sketch out the design onto each blade so when you apply the paint you have guidelines. If you want something more elaborate such as a landscape painting, consider hiring a local artist to do it for you.

5. Put a sealant over the design after the paint dries. Dust can collect on a ceiling fan over time so it is important to make sure you apply the sealant to keep the design and colors looking fresh and vibrant. Apply it in long, horizontal strokes over every area of the fan blades. If you have to make any adjustments to the paint, make sure to apply more sealant after your adjustments dry.

6. Let the fan dry thoroughly. This can prevent any damage to the design you worked hard to create. After you apply the sealant, leave it in a cool, dry place where it won't get bumped around.

Tags: your design, apply sealant, elaborate such, elaborate such landscape, landscape painting, make sure

Wire A Second Lighting Fixture Into An Existing Lighting Fixture

Two lights are brighter than one.

Adding an additional light to your existing old light fixture is a convenient way to add more light to a normally dark area. For example, a long hallway might have a single light at one end, while the other end of the hallway is dim. Adding the second light at the other end could provide safety by giving you the opportunity to see trip hazards in what was once a dark area. Knowing wire a second light fixture can keep dollars in your pocket because you didn't need to hire a professional---you did it yourself.

Instructions

1. Turn the electrical power off to the light circuit by turning off the breaker at the main electrical panel.

2. Test to verify the circuit is disconnected. Remove the switch plate cover from the switch that powers the light. Use an inexpensive two prong electrical tester and touch one prong to one of the black wires on the switch and the other prong to any metal on the switch or electrical box. The power is disconnected when the tester does not light up. Repeat this for the remaining black wire on the switch. Replace the switch cover plate.

3. Remove the original light fixture from the ceiling. Remove the light shade and the light bulb to access the screws holding the fixture to the ceiling. Remove the screws and the fixture, and set the fixture aside.

4. Cut a hole in the ceiling to install the ceiling junction box. Trace around the template provided with the new "old work" ceiling junction box and cut the hole using a keyhole saw.

5. Pull a length of 14/2 NM cable from the new light location to the original light fixture electrical box. Leave approximately 8 inches of cable exposed at both locations.

6. Strip the NM cable at both light locations. Use dual NM wire cutter/strippers and remove 4 to 6 inches of exterior sheath from the cable exposing the enclosed black, white and bare copper wires. Strip 1/2 inch of insulation off of the black and white wires.

7. Install the new "old work" ceiling junction box. Pull the NM cable through the junction box knockout and install the junction box into the ceiling following the manufacturer's directions.

8. Connect the wires and reinstall the original ceiling light. Connect the white wire from the original light, the new white wire you installed and the white wire from the original electrical box using a red wire connector to connect all three wires together. Use a red wire connector to connect the three black wires together, the black from the light and the two blacks located inside the original electrical box. Connect the two bare copper wires together inside the junction box with an orange wire connector. Attach the original light fixture to the junction box. Replace the bulb and the shade.

9. Install the new light fixture. Assemble the new light fixture according to the manufacturer's instructions. Connect the bare copper green ground wire to the ground screw located inside the "old work" ceiling junction box. Connect the white wire from the junction box to the white wire from the light fixture by twisting an orange wire connector onto the two wires. Connect the black wire from the light fixture to the black wire inside the junction box with an orange wire connector as well. Push all the wiring inside the ceiling junction box and attach the light following the installation instructions.

10. Turn the power back on to the light circuit by turning the breaker on in the main electrical panel.

Tags: light fixture, ceiling junction, white wire, wire connector, wire from, from light

Clean Ceiling Tile

There are several kinds of ceiling tiles including tin, noncoated, sheetrock, vinyl coated and porous. These all look different, but they all need to be cleaned on a weekly or monthly basis. Ceilings tend to accumulate dust rather easily, especially in the corners. Removing the dust will help improve the air quality in your home.

Instructions

1. Dust the ceiling tiles. Use a feather duster to remove dirt particles and dust from the tiles in the ceiling, particularly in the corners where cobwebs can accumulate. Avoid using a rag, since it can catch on the tiles and edges.

2. Vacuum the ceiling tiles. Use the brush attachment and make sure to reach into the corners of the ceiling.

3. Mix dishwashing liquid with water. Whether you can use this method to clean depends on the kind of tile you have. On sheetrock and porous tiles, use a dry sponge to remove any stains that may be on the tiles. If you have tin, vinyl-coated or synthetic tiles, use soap and water and clean with a sponge.

4. Scrape rust off with steel wool if you have tin tiles.

5. Paint noncoated ceiling tiles with acoustical tile paint such as Majic's to cover up any stains.

Tags: ceiling tiles

Attach Cathedral Wood Beams

Cathedral ceilings and rustic beams can be added to any style home.

A cathedral ceiling is a high-peaked ceiling that is actually part of the roof. The insulation and safety issues involved in building a cathedral ceiling are different from a ceiling that is built below the roof and involves trusses and I-joints that create a solid triangle between the roof and ceiling. A cathedral ceiling has it's insulation on the outside of the ceiling and for safety the beams have to be supported by a collar tie, a gusset plate or rest securely on a wall that can handle the weight.

Instructions

1. Attaching the cathedral ceiling's wood beams really starts beneath the floor. When building, dig your foundation and footers with the extra weight in mind. Reinforce the footers with steel rebar. A structural engineer and your county building code will tell you how deep and how wide your footer needs to be to support the beam you are planning.

2. Install large posts at the front and back of your construction to hold the ridge beam that the smaller cathedral ceiling beams or rafters will rest on. The ridge beam is the main beam that extends the length of the cathedral ceiling and supports the whole ceiling. Build the posts from 2-by-6 inch boards. Nail and glue the 6-inch width of the boards (which is actually 5-1/2 inches wide), together leaving a space the height and width of the ridge beam in the center of the post. For a 4-inch wide by 3-foot tall ridge beam use three 2-by-6 boards for the center. The 2 inches are really only 1-1/2 inches, so three 2-by-6s will equal 4-1/2 inches thick when attached together. On either side of the three boards glue and nail one more 2X6 that is 3 feet taller than the center three 2X6. This will give you a tine, like a football goal post, for the ridge beam to rest in. The length of the 2X6 boards will depend on the height of your ceiling. If you prefer, posts can be special-ordered from a lumberyard for your ridge beam's size.

3. Measure and mark on the ridge beam exactly where the perpendicular rafters will be. Several rafters will need to be evenly spaced. Fasten the rafters at the ridge beam with metal joist hangers that are nailed directly to the ridge beam.

4. Set the other end of the rafter on the wall that parallels the ridge beam. Cut a notch in the wall called a bird's-mouth notch for the beam to rest in. The bird's mouth notch should be 1/3 the width of the top of the wall and cut at an angle the same width as the rafter beam, so it will set in the top of the wall securely.

5. Purchase hurricane straps the width and thickness of your rafter beam. Fit the strap under the rafter beam. The metal straps are twisted to fit the beam and against the wall with precut holes for the nails exposed to both the wall and the rafter.

Tags: ridge beam, cathedral ceiling, rafter beam, rafters will, beam rest

Prepare Stained Wood Paneling For Painting

Some homeowners think they're doomed when wanting to update dark, dingy paneled rooms. Fearing the cost of removing the paneling, along with prepping the walls for paint and the many hours of work involved in such an extensive project, they often either put off the project indefinitely or opt to leave the dreary room as is. Painting the paneling is the answer to this dilemma. Inexpensive, and not particularly time-consuming, the whole room will look brighter and instantly updated with a couple of coats of paint. Preparing the stained paneling is the first step in this room makeover.

Instructions

1. Remove all hardware that is affixed to the paneling, like outlet covers and switch plates, using a screwdriver. Tape the screws to the back of each of these covers using painters tape. This will prevent them from becoming lost during the painting process.

Lightly sand all of the stained paneling with a power sander on low, using fine-grit sandpaper. Wipe away the dust created from sanding with a clean rag.

2. Place painters tape along any areas that the paneling borders, like the ceiling, floor or any abutting cabinetry.

There is a choice to be made when painting paneling, with regard to the finished product. If you like a rustic look and don't mind the indents between panels to show through the paint, you are ready to proceed with painting at this point. If you prefer an even look, with little to no exposure of these indents, there is another step to take before painting. If the second option is your choice, you must fill the indents between panels with drywall mud, using a putty knife, and allow it to dry for two to three hours. Next, lightly sand the areas where you have used the drywall mud.

3. Apply a coat of primer to all of the stained wood paneling. Because most paneling is dark, this is an important step unless you are using a very dark color paint, or the paneling is actually a very light tone. Allow the primer about an hour to dry before proceeding with the first coat of paint.

4. Apply a second coat of paint immediately following the first. Allow about two hours of drying time before removing the painters tape and replacing the light-switch plates and outlet covers.

Tags: painters tape, between panels, coat paint, indents between, indents between panels, outlet covers

Hall Bathroom Ideas

You can make a bathroom better.

A hall bathroom should be a space in your home that receives just as much attention as any other room in the house. A small bathroom, even one with a bathtub, can be made over with a few updates or a full renovation---it depends on your needs, wants and budget. Whatever you do to improve your hall bathroom, it always helps to have a plan.

First Things First: Basic Decision-making

Decide who will do the work and what should be changed.

First you will need to make some basic decisions, such as whether you will need a plumber's or other professional's services or will do the work yourself. You will have to differentiate between needed changes and desired changes, such as whether you need a new toilet or would just like a better model---perhaps one that conserves water and is more economical. If you wish to replace the sink, you may need to set a price range, as the costs of sinks vary considerably depending upon the size and style you choose. If you plan to redo the floor, consider all options: tile, wood, slate or marble. For an area with such a small footprint, you might be surprised that you can afford your most expensive choice for flooring to update your hall bath.

Imitate Other Good Designs

Creating your dream bathroom.

After discussing the nitty-gritty details about what needs to be replaced and how much money you have to spend on new ideas and updating, the most helpful thing you can do is find a photo of a bathroom that you love---one that is of similar size and configuration, preferably---and set out to "copy" the ideas of your dream bathroom. This gives you an immediate bathroom "plan" that you can keep referring back to, and you can take the picture with you on your visits to home products and improvement stores when selecting paint, vanities, sinks, lighting, and other materials for your bathroom update project. Browse Internet sites and print magazines for great bathroom ideas and research bathroom ideas at the library.

Your Time Is Valuable

Planning your hall bathroom project must also take the timeline into account. If you will do the work yourself, you might want to get out the calendar and mark off the days in the coming months that you predict you can spend on updating the bathroom. Once you have it figured out, write down what you plan to do on specific days and try to leave time for some relaxation if you only have weekends to do the work. Also, think about whether it will cause any problems for those in the household who are accustomed to using your hall bathroom on a regular basis.

Extra Time Is Needed to Schedule Professionals

Hiring professionals increases costs.

If you will hire a professional to do some or all of the work, you will have to plan ahead to be able to complete the hall bathroom updates in a timely way. You will have a better chance of having the work done in the timeframe that you desire if you can schedule it months in advance. If it is a summer project, for instance, you will not want the bathroom work to conflict with your vacation plans. Also, obtaining three estimates of what the job will cost is a wise use of your time if you will be using a professional contractor for the work.

Little Things Mean a Lot

Update towel racks, medicine cabinets, lighting and more.

No matter how simple or complicated your bathroom project is, there are many ways to end up with a spectacular hall bathroom. Your local home improvement stores offer so many choices in sinks and faucets---including some beautiful and stunning designs---that you may wish to make the sink the focal point. If you plan to complete only cosmetic improvements, changing the wall color and adding a new mirror and lighting can do wonders. A super small bathroom may be improved with just a new floor, wall sconces and additional shelving and towel racks if storage is a problem. If the hall bathroom door is plain and uninviting, place a mirror and a small table outside the bathroom for added interest and an extra location to store small items. And don't forget: You are decorating a room---artwork is appropriate and desirable.

Tags: hall bathroom, your hall, hall bathroom, will have, will work, your hall bathroom