Adjustable desk lamps can help illuminate your sunroom.
Your sunroom can be a valuable nighttime space, as well as a functional room during the day. If your sunroom is mostly glass or other clear paneling, chances are good that you don't have the ability to wire in standard lighting fixtures. In fact, you may not have the wiring for any lighting at all, other than a few standard outlets. Make the most of your sunroom at night by taking advantage of its unique characteristics to provide yourself with a nighttime glow that makes the room as relaxing and functional as it is during the day.
Instructions
1. Place two floor lamps, with three adjustable heads each, near the wall that divides your sunroom from the rest of the house. Position them about two feet in from each end of the wall and one to two feet away from the wall.
2. Add extension cords and a power strip, if needed, to power the lamps from the nearest outlet.
3. Aim the top two heads of the adjustable lamps at the wall, with the top heads aimed just below the ceiling and the middle heads aimed about off the floor. Aim the lowest head on each lamp at the floor of the sunroom about four feet in front of the lamp's base.
4. Place light-colored throw rugs that are tightly woven, rather than shaggy, where the beams from these lamps hit the floor. This will help "bounce" the light around the room, creating more ambient light. Aiming lights at the walls and floor also helps keep your lighting from becoming disruptive to neighbors.
5. Place two small end tables near the outer corners of your sunroom and place a desk lamp on each. Aim the desk lamps toward the floor, near the center of the room, and scatter more light-colored throw rugs about the floor to maximize the light.
Tags: your sunroom, about four, about four feet, desk lamps, four feet, , light-colored throw
Ceiling tiles are available from Lowe's in a variety of textures and finishes.
Ceiling tiles can completely change the look of a room, and do not take long to install. Ceiling tiles from Lowe's come in smooth, textured, and patterned styles from a variety of manufacturers. The tiles hang in a grid assembly, also available from Lowe's. If you want to create an antique look in your kitchen, you can install tiles that look like the tin ceilings that were popular in the early to mid 1900s. Some tile designs look like interconnected rings when installed or you can opt for a smooth tile. It all depends on the overall design and purpose of the room.
Instructions
1. Determine the layout of the ceiling panels. You will need the dimensions of the room and the ceiling tiles to do this. For instance, if your room measures 9-by-10 1/2 feet, you will have one main row of uncut panels down the center and a matching border on each side. Border panels would measure 2 1/2-by-1 1/4 feet. The entire room would need 36 panels to complete.
2. Mark the height of the new ceiling. Take lighting into consideration and leave enough space for fixtures. Pot, or can, lights need an additional 2 inches of space beyond the height of the light. Use the pencil and chalk line to make this mark all the way around the room. Use the level to make sure your ceiling will be level when it is installed.
3. Nail the wall molding studs to the walls so that the bottom edge of the molding sits on the chalk line. Use the nails that come with the suspension kit.
4. Snap chalk lines at the predetermined measurements for the main beams, as discovered during the ceiling layout phase. Screw in the wire fasteners 4 feet apart along the chalk lines for the main beams. These fasteners hold the wire hangers that suspend the ceiling.
5. Hammer a nail into the wall just above the top of the molding, where the main beams of the be. Let the nail stick out a bit, as you will be tying a string to it. Do this on the wall opposite, as well. Tie a string to both nails. This will be your guide for making the wire hangers and ensuring that the ceiling will be level.
6. Bend all the wire hangers. Thread the wire through the hole in the fastener and give it a few twists to secure it at the top. Let it swing down, then bend it 90 degrees where it touches the string. Move the string line as needed until all the fasteners have wires.
7. Install main beams. Trim the beams to length with the tin snips. Place the end of the beam on the wall molding and thread a wire hanger through the corresponding hole. Twist to secure, as was done on the fastener end of the hanger. Do this for all the fasteners that are in line with the main beams.
8. Trim the cross tees to fit with the tin snips. Snap or hook the cross tee into the hole in wall molding. Insert the other end into the correct hole on the main beam. Keep repeating this procedure until you install all of the cross tees.
9. Install the panels. Slide the panel though the grid at an angle, then lower it into place. Use a straight edge and a utility knife to trim panels to size. The ceiling is now installed.
Tags: main beams, ceiling will, from Lowe, wall molding, wire hangers, available from, Lowe
Crown molding is a lovely accent to a room, but changes in temperature or house settling will cause the molding to shift and move over time. This creates a noticeable "crack." Fortunately, it's easy to repair. It is not always necessary to pay a professional to repair these areas. Use a caulk gun and a tube of caulk to instantly restore the molding to its original condition.
Instructions
1. Wipe your crown molding with the clean cloth to remove any dust or dirt.
2. Cut the end off the caulk tube at a 45-degree angle, using the built-in cutter on the caulk gun.
3. Puncture a hole in the tube, using the puncture wire attached to the caulk gun.
4. Squeeze the trigger of the caulk gun and apply the caulk to the seam at a 45-degree angle. Work slow and steady to ensure a smooth, even caulk line.
5. Run your finger along the line of caulk to fill in all gaps. Wipe over this seam with your wet cloth to remove any excess caulk.
6. Paint the caulk line, using a paintbrush and the same paint originally used to paint the molding.
Once you frame a suspended ceiling, the tile installation is simple.
Adding ceiling tiles to a room enables you to hide an existing ceiling or add one to an unfinished area, such as a basement. Most ceiling tiles simply set inside a suspended ceiling grid. While the installation process is not difficult for a do-it-yourselfer, you do need to do some planning before you install the grid. Since most rooms are not the exact measurement of multiple widths of the ceiling tiles, you need to plan the suspended ceiling grid so the outer rows of tiles are slightly narrower than the rest of the suspension frame.
Instructions
1. Measure and mark a line around the perimeter of the room that is at least 4 inches below the existing ceiling and at least 7 1/2 feet above the floor. You need the 4 inches to allow room to slide the into the frame. Most building codes require at least a 7 1/2-foot height. Snap a chalk line along the marks you made on the walls. Check that it is level using a carpenter's level or a laser level. If necessary, resnap the line.
2. Use a stud finder to locate and mark the studs on the wall along the chalk line. Place the bottom edge of the L-shaped perimeter molding along the line you marked. Nail it in place into the studs using 6d nails. Cut the molding, as necessary, with tin snips. Butt edges together.
3. Locate and mark the ceiling joists using a stud finder, if a ceiling is already in place.
4. Measure the length of the room perpendicular to the joists in inches. Measure the length of a ceiling tile in inches. Divide the room's length by the tile's length to determine how many full-size panel lengths you need. If there is a remainder, divide that amount by two to determine how wide the border tiles need to be.
5. Measure the width of the room parallel to the joists in inches. Measure the width of the in inches. Divide the width of the room by the width of the tile. Divide any remainder by two to determine the width of the border tiles.
6. Mark the width of the border section you determined in Step 4 onto several locations perpendicular to the ceiling joists. Align your marks and snap a chalk line. Measure the length of a ceiling tile and make a chalk line at that distance. Continue snapping chalk lines onto the ceiling to match the length of the ceiling tiles. The amount that remains when you reach the opposite wall should be the same as the width of the first border section. Check that all lines are parallel to each other.
7. Tie the end of a piece of string around the perimeter molding on one side of the room. Run the string across the room and tie it tightly to the perimeter molding on the opposite side of the room. The string should be even with the bottom of the perimeter molding and should not sag. Tie two or three additional pieces of string parallel to the first one. The strings are your guides for hanging the suspension frame.
8. Twist a small eye bolt into every third joist along the chalk lines. Cut pieces of 16-gauge wire approximately 12 inches long with wire cutters.
9. Insert one end of a piece of wire into an eye bolt. Twist the wire back on itself three times. Fold the bottom end of the wire so it is even with the hanging strings. Add wire to all the eye bolts in a similar manner.
10. Set one end of a piece of main runner for the suspension grid in the perimeter molding. Using the chalk lines on the joists above as a guide, attach the main runner to the ceiling using the dangling wires. Run the end of the wire through one of the holes in the main runner and then twist the wire back onto itself three times. Join the main runner with the next piece, if necessary, by sliding the pieces together until they snap. Cut any excess runner with tin snips. Continue hanging the frame for the ceiling tiles until all the main runners are in place.
11. Measure the amount you determined for the border of the crosspieces of the room in Step 5. Connect a crosspiece to two main runners at that point by slipping the tabs on the ends of the crosspiece into the slots on the main runners. Set the remaining crosspieces between the first pair of parallel rows of main runners at the width of the ceiling tiles. The last opening should be the same as the first opening at the beginning of the row. Continue setting all the remaining cross pieces in place in the suspension grid.
12. Tilt a full-size ceiling tile and insert it into one of the four center openings in the ceiling grid. Slide it into position. Place the remaining three center tiles in place. Once these center tiles are in place, they help square the frame so you can easily finish the ceiling tile installation.
Tags: ceiling tiles, ceiling tile, perimeter molding, chalk line, main runner, main runners
Many home basements have unfinished concrete ceilings. If you plan on using the basement, the concrete ceiling will have a drab, dull appearance. Painting your ceiling will help give your basement a more finished, usable appearance, as concrete paint is available in nearly every color imaginable. Although painting concrete ceilings isn't difficult, painting overhead can be tiring. Use a long-handled roller or apply the paint with a paint sprayer.
Instructions
1. Sand any bumps or uneven areas so the ceiling is smooth, then sweep the concrete ceiling to remove any dust or cobwebs. Sealer and paint won't adhere to a dirty surface.
2. Use a long-handled paint roller to apply a concrete sealer to the ceiling. If the concrete ceiling has already been sealed, touch up any worn areas before painting the ceiling.
3. Paint the concrete ceiling, using a long-handled roller or a paint sprayer. Use an epoxy paint, which will adhere to the ceiling and will provide a hard surface that won't be easily chipped or scratched.
Sponging is a great way to provide warmth and depth to any room, creating a great backdrop for your room's overall decor. Sponge painting utilizes inexpensive materials and easy techniques, and can result in a professional looking job by even the most inexperienced painters. To sponge paint your walls and ceilings, follow these instructions.
Instructions
The Steps
1. Place your drop cloths over the floors and any furnishings that were too large to remove from the room. Use painters tape to cover anything you wish to protect, such as moldings, light fixtures, or windows. Prepare your walls by removing switch plates and other hardware, pulling out nails, spackling holes and sanding rough areas smooth. If you feel the need to prime your walls and ceiling, you may, though the variation of color after sponging makes it an unnecessary step.
2. Choose two colors of paint in eggshell, satin or semi-gloss finish. The colors should compliment each other or be similar in shade. One good option is to choose paint in one color, with one shade a step or two darker than the other. Another option is to choose shades close in hue, such as pink and lavender. In this case, the colors should have similar intensity.
3. Paint the room with the lighter color first. Begin by using a brush to paint edges, corners, and any unusually shaped areas such as arches or around window frames. Use the roller to apply the paint to the larger surfaces. If a lot of the paint is being absorbed by the wall so that it is very uneven, you may need a second coat. Allow the base coat to dry before proceeding.
4. Mix the darker color with glaze. To make it more translucent for a subtle blending of colors, use up to one part glaze to three parts paint. For a more pronounced look, use one part glaze to four to six parts paint. The less glaze you use, the deeper and richer the top color will be. If you want the sponged color to be very rich and dramatic, you can omit the glaze.
5. Pour the paint and glaze mixture (or straight paint, if you prefer) into a paint pan. Center the ladder in the middle of the room. Use one that is sturdy and that has a ledge or shelf to hold the paint and supplies. Spread a rag over the top rung for easy blotting, and place the paint tray on the ledge.
6. Wet the sea sponge in the sink and wring it out thoroughly. Carefully climb the ladder until you can easily reach the ceiling. Dab the sponge into the paint, and wipe the excess off the edge of the tray. Blot the sponge further by dabbing it on the towel you spread over the wrung.
7. Starting from the center of the ceiling and radiating outward, pat the paint onto the ceiling with the sponge. Twist it and move it slightly between each pat, slightly overlapping, in random designs. When you've covered as much area as you can comfortably reach, climb down, move the ladder, and work on another section. Each time you come down to resituate the ladder, take the opportunity to rinse the sponge in clear water and wring it out again. Continue this until the ceiling is covered, working almost to the edges and corners.
8. Begin sponging the walls, one wall at a time. Start each wall near the top of one corner, working downward on one section at a time, moving the sponge back and forth as you go along each section. Sponge the same way you did the ceiling, trying to match the style. Sponge almost all the way to the corners and edge between the wall and ceiling. Remember to periodically clean and wring the sponge.
9. After you have finished the walls, go back around the room, sponging into the edge between the wall and ceiling, and into the corners, connecting the patterns.
Fluorescent lighting, the scourge of home interiors throughout the 1960s and 1970s, has made a comeback in some new and improved ways. Modern fluorescent lighting no longer just comes in long, unwieldy tubes; it is also available in compact bulbs, providing concentrated light without the stark, sterile look of its predecessors. Modern fluorescent bulbs can go into any standard incandescent light fixture, which makes them much easier to install.
Instructions
1. Cut power to the old fixture at the house fuse box. Remove the old fixture by taking out the screws that holding it to the ceiling and disconnecting the wires behind it. You should be left with an exposed electrical box with black, white and wires in it.
2. Locate the for your new fluorescent light fixture. Hold the bracket up to the electrical box, aligning the screw holes. Insert the screws that came with the light to affix it.
3. Wrap the end of the bare copper (ground) wire around the green ground screw on the installation bracket. Tighten the screw.
4. Link the two wires from the fixture to the two remaining wires from the electrical box, according to color (white to white and black to black). Twist a wire cap over the two wire ends at once to make the connections. Make sure no bare wire is visible around the base of the cap.
5. Push the wire connections into the electrical box. Put the fixture against the bracket and secure it there with the provided screws. Put a fluorescent bulb in the fixture. Turn on the power.
Tags: bare copper, installation bracket, light fixture, Modern fluorescent, screws that, wires from
Crown molding separates the wall and ceiling seams. Crown molding consists of grooved wooden strips that resemble floor molding except they are three-dimensional. You can install crown molding on any wall including a wall with plaster. Plaster is a coating placed over drywall as a finish coat and it is placed over wood lath. Wood lath is the wood frame built over the studs in a wall. Not all walls have wood lath.
Instructions
1. Place a scrap piece of molding in place and mark the bottom of the molding on the wall. Do this in several places around the room. Stretch a chalk line over the marks and snap the line to create your "installation line." This is the line that shows you where to place the bottom of the crown molding when you install it.
2. Locate the joists and studs with a stud finder and mark their locations. If the plaster is over lath, you will not be able to locate the studs with a stud finder because the entire wall has wooden strips located behind the plaster. If this is the case, you can skip this step.
3. Measure the length of the wall with a tape measure and cut the first board to length on a miter saw. Make sure both ends of the molding are square.
4. Place the molding on the wall, butt it up against the corner and place the bottom of the molding on the chalk line. Starting from the center of the molding, drive 8D finish nails through the molding with a hammer approximately ½-inch from the top of the molding and ½-inch from the bottom of the molding. Drive the nails into the studs and joists. If you have lath, evenly space the nails every 10 inches. If you need to splice two pieces of molding together to compensate for the length of the room, cut a 45-degree scarf cut on each end of the boards you will splice together with the miter saw.
5. Install each additional piece of molding as you move around the room in the same manner as the first. When necessary cut 45-degree angles through the boards for inside corners and outside corners to ensure a tight fit around the corners in the room.
Cove accent lighting adds romantic appeal to a bathroom.
Incorporating some kind of accent lighting is wise to achieve aesthetically pleasing lighting in a room. It might not have a purpose other than to be eye-catching and dramatic, but that is reason enough to look into bathroom cove lighting. The easiest way to put cove lights in an existing bathroom is to add crown molding a few inches from the ceiling and run cable lighting behind the molding. The resulting defused, upward lighting adds a glow to the perimeter of the room that gives it an expensive, appealing appearance.
Instructions
1. Measure the perimeter of the bathroom or along the wall on which you want to install cove lights. Enough 1-by-4-inch lumber and crown molding is needed for those measurements. The lumber acts as the ledger pieces to which the crown molding is mounted.
2. Clamp each end of a 1-by-4-inch lumber, or ledger, piece to a sturdy, flat work surface outside. Put on safety glasses and work gloves.
3. Cut out a detail along each ledger's length with a rotary cutting tool fitted with the bit of choice. Cut the detail in the bottom of each ledger so that the edge of each ledger blends nicely with the bottom of the crown molding.
4. Apply two coats of white paint to each ledger and crown molding piece. Allow all the painted pieces to dry.
5. Hold one piece of crown molding against one piece of ledger, and mark with a pencil where the should be mounted based on the detail you cut with the rotary tool. Repeat this step for each ledger piece.
6. Attach small corner blocks to each ledger piece with wood glue every 18 inches along the mark you made. Pin the corner blocks in position with two nails from a nail gun shot into the corner blocks at a 45-degree angle.
7. Drill pilot holes every 18 inches along each ledger. They will make screwing the ledgers into the wall easier.
8. Mark a chalk line along the wall 10 to 12 inches from the ceiling. Install with the bottom edge along the chalk line. Insert 1-inch long screws through the pilot holes and into the wall.
9. Drop a dime-sized dollop of construction adhesive onto each corner block on the first ledger strip. Set the crown molding in place one section at a time to prevent the construction adhesive from drying before you are done. Secure the crown molding in place with nails from the nail gun.
10. Hook sections of cable lighting together until you have a strip that extends the appropriate length for the cove light installation. Plug the lighting into a nearby electrical outlet, and run it behind the crown molding the length of the wall.
Tags: crown molding, each ledger, ledger piece, corner blocks, each ledger piece, , accent lighting
Chandeliers bring style and elegance to any room in any home. However, traditional crystal chandeliers often are heavy and dated. If you want Old World elegance with a modern twist, try a glass bulb chandelier. These hanging light fixtures feature bundles of glowing glass bubbles gathered around a central light. They brighten a dinner table or entryway with refracted light and a touch of modern whimsy. Glass bubble chandeliers also are a DIY project that you can customize to your tastes and style.
Instructions
1. Cut up to 30 lengths of fishing line about 1 foot longer than your pendant light. For instance, if your pendant light measures 2 feet long, the fishing line pieces should be about 3 feet long.
2. Tie one end of each piece of fishing line to the ring in the bar half of a toggle clasp. These clasps feature straight bars that pass through rings to hold jewelry together. All you need, in this case, are the bars.
3. Pull the metal caps off of all of your clear glass ornaments. Slide a toggle bar vertically down into each glass bulb. Once inside, the bars should dangle horizontally and catch when they reach the openings in the ornaments. This holds the ornaments in place on your chandelier.
4. Remove the shade from lamp, unscrewing the shade from the top of the bulb fixture, if necessary. Discard the shade; you don't need it anymore.
5. Bundle the ornaments around the bare pendant light bulb, arranging them to your liking. They'll hang naturally at different lengths and look a bit like an upside-down flower bouquet.
6. Begin wrapping the fishing line and pendant light cords in ribbon just above the light bulb assembly. Wrap tightly to secure the fishing line attached to the ornaments. Tie the ribbon off at the top of the pendant light cord and cut away any excess ribbon.
Tags: fishing line, pendant light, your pendant, feet long, glass bulb
When placing a sculpture whether for decor, gallery display or photography, the proper lighting will make the piece stand out. Since different environments will affect lighting, you'll need to use general and accent lighting at different angles. After each lighting adjustment, step back to assess the affect on the sculpture.
Instructions
1. Set up whole-room lighting, either by turning on or installing overhead fixtures. General lighting should provide reveal the simple form of the sculpture and is close to the same conditions that the artist used to create the piece.
2. With only general illumination, the 3D form of a sculpture will be lost. Place directional spotlights to create shadow that accentuates the sculpture form. The lights should be close to the sculpture and bright enough to highlight the piece.
3. Place a single uplight near or at floor level behind the sculpture highlight the sculpture as a viewing destination. The uplight should be warm white and not too bright; you want to avoid casting harsh shadows or uncomfortable glare. Use this same technique for a pendant or hanging accent light, placing it directly above the sculpture or slightly in front and above to hit the sculpture at an angle.
Tags: above sculpture, accent lighting, form sculpture
Ceiling fans sometimes are just fans, but most modern ceiling-fan kits also include lights. This is because the most standard installation method is to hang the fan in place of an existing ceiling light fixture, which means you'll be short a light if there isn't one included in the fan. In most systems, the light and the fan are fed by the same wiring and connected to the same wall switch. Two pull cords then control the two parts separately on the unit itself.
Instructions
1. Turn off the existing light fixture at the wall switch, then cut power at the fuse box. Test the fixture at the switch to make sure the power is dead.
2. Remove the old fixture, accessing it with your ladder and taking out the mounting screws that are holding it to the electrical box in the ceiling. Pull apart the connections of the wires from the fixture to the ceiling, leaving the wire ends hanging from the ceiling box. Normally there will be one black wire, one white wire and one bare copper wire for grounding the circuit.
3. Connect the mounting bracket that came with your fan to the ceiling box, using the provided screws. The screws will go through holes in the bracket that line up with holes in the electrical box. Pull the wires down through the center of the bracket.
4. Assemble the fan on the floor according to its instructions. Don't install the blades yet. You should have a black and a white wire coming out of the top of the unit (the part that mounts to the ceiling).
5. Carry the fan unit up to the electrical box and connect the the fan to the wires from the box. Connect black to black and white to white, using the wire caps to twist the bare wire ends together. Wrap each connection in electric tape. Hook the copper ground wire from the ceiling around the green grounding screw in the fan housing and tighten the screw.
6. Set the fan unit up to the bracket that you mounted earlier, and secure the unit in place to the bracket, using the screws that the kit.
7. Put a light bulb in the socket, turn on the power at the fuse box, and test the light and the motor. There will be two pull-cords, one for the light and one for the fan, with both being controlled by the wall switch. When you're sure the unit is working correctly, turn the power back off and install the blades.
Tags: , wall switch, wires from, black white, came with,
Pendant light chandeliers are common in modern d cor. Placed over a dining table, these pendant chandeliers provide excellent lighting. However, these chandeliers can sometimes provide too much light. Hanging a pendant chandelier with a diffuser is the easiest way to address this problem. Learning add a diffuser to one of these pendant chandeliers with a drum shade will help you to soften the light that comes from the fixture. Once you add the diffuser you can hang the chandelier.
Instructions
1. Spread a piece of cotton fabric on the floor. Place the drum shade of the pendant chandelier on top of the fabric. Lightly trace around the shade. Cut out the fabric so it is approximately ¼ inch larger than the shape of the drum shade.
2. Remove the fabric band from the bottom of the drum shade. Work carefully so you do not rip or tear the fabric band; you will need to reattach it later.
3. Glue the round piece of cotton fabric to the bottom of the pendant shade. The cotton fabric will act as the light diffuser. Use Tacky Glue to attach the cotton fabric to the shade. Allow the glue to dry completely. Once the glue is dry, re-attach the fabric band around the bottom of the drum shade with the tacky glue. Let the glue dry completely.
4. Remove the old light fixture from the ceiling. Turn off the power to the light fixture. Unscrew the base of the fixture with a screwdriver. Unhook the wiring by removing the wire nuts from the wired pairs.
5. Hang the new pendant chandelier with the newly installed light diffuser. Attach the mounting bracket to the electrical box with a screwdriver.
6. Connect the wiring between the chandelier and the electrical box. Match the black wires together and twist the ends together. Repeat with both the white and ground wires. Twist wire nuts over the top of the exposed wires.
7. Tuck the wires into the electrical box. Screw the pendant chandelier to the mounting bracket with a screwdriver. Turn on the power.
Tags: drum shade, cotton fabric, pendant chandelier, fabric band, with screwdriver, bottom drum, bottom drum shade
A too-small chandelier hanging too high over a large dining table looks lost in the space.
Dining room light fixtures are often chandeliers or large-scale lights designed to enhance the dining experience and provide good light for each dining guest. There are three primary considerations when determining the height of the light fixture: the style of the fixture, the volume of the room and the number of fixtures being installed. The final consideration is the preference of the homeowner. In most cases, the fixture is hung before a house is sold based on standard height calculations.
Room Volume
A large chandelier can hang in a room with large volume, where the length of the chandelier is longer than it is wide.
Room volume is calculated by multiplying the length of the room, times the width of the room, times the height of the room. Basically, if a room has tall ceilings, then the room has a lot of volume and that space needs to be addressed by the scale of the . Usually this is solved by selecting a fixture that is physically longer and a bit wider than would normally be selected for the room. With high-volume rooms, the fixture is sometimes mounted higher than standard. If two fixtures are used, the fixtures can become smaller and be spaced at a more normal height.
Fixture Width
A chandelier can work in a space with lower ceilings but larger floor area, if it is wider rather than taller.
To determine the standard fixture width, most designers measure the length and width of the room and add the two numbers together. For example, if your room is 10-by-14-feet, added together that is 24, which means the room can support a chandelier that is 24-inches wide. A good width can also be calculated by using half the width of the table.
Fixture Style
This ornate, taste-specific chandelier would be hard to see through.
The style of the light fixture plays a more complicated role in determining where you should place the fixture. If the light fixture has thin arms and delicate design, and it looks light and it is easy to see through, then this light fixture can be positioned lower. If the fixture is dark and has thick, structural parts, it will be considered visually heavy. Placing this style too close to the table may make guests feel crowded and cramped.
Calculating Height
A traditional-style chandelier can be mounted above standard height based on preference.
Lastly, it is important to consider the homeowner. Some people have strong preferences for higher or lower fixtures. Usually, the criteria they use is based on seeing the faces of their friends and families without a fixture being in the way. Often, this will mean that the fixture is placed higher so that their view to the table is good even when standing near the table. The standard height for a dining room fixture is 30-inches above the top of the table, plus or minus the considerations discussed here.
Asbestos ceiling tiles were commonly used in homes and buildings before the 1970s. Asbestos is a fiber that was once used in "acoustic" ceilings which were also called "drop" or "suspended" ceilings. Before the carcinogenic affects of asbestos were known; many people were unfortunately exposed to these fibers since they were often used in numerous different materials including roofing and ceiling products.
Asbestos is only dangerous if the material is airborne; therefore, contaminated ceiling tiles are only harmful if damaged. If you would like to remove these tiles from your ceiling, it is best to have a licensed contractor complete the job for you. If you decide to remove the tiles yourself, you will need to proceed with extreme care and caution.
Instructions
1. To remove asbestos ceiling tiles, you will first need to dress properly. Wear a tyvek suit, safety glasses, and an approved respirator. This protective clothing can be purchased either online or at a local store. You don't want any asbestos contaminated materials to get on your skin, in your eyes, or into your lungs.
2. Turn off any heating and air circulation systems to avoid the chances of any asbestos in the ceiling tiles from becoming airborne.
3. Place a tarp directly underneath where you will be working and set up a ladder.
4. Add 2 teaspoons of dishwasher detergent to 1 gallon of water. Pour some of this mixture into a spray bottle and start by spraying one of the asbestos ceiling tiles with this detergent water. This will help to keep the fibers from if you were to break any of the tiles.
5. Carefully remove the ceiling tiles one by one. You will need to avoid breaking or tearing the tile since this can cause the asbestos to become airborne. As you remove each tile, place them directly into a yellow asbestos bag. Once the bag is full of tiles, seal it completely with duct tape and then place it into a 6 mil polyethylene bag.
6. Once you've finished removing the tiles, place the tarp from under your project into one of the asbestos bags to be disposed of.
7. Properly dispose of the asbestos ceiling tiles by following the regulations set by your state.
Swapping out a ceiling fan with a standard light fixture is a relatively easy project, since you can use the same electrical box and circuit wiring to secure and connect the new fixture. If installed properly, a ceiling fan is mounted to a special heavy-duty electrical box that is fastened directly to a ceiling joist or secured between two joists with a metal brace or piece of lumber blocking. This setup is strong enough for most light fixtures; just be sure to give the mounting a thorough inspection before hanging the fixture. Because ceiling fans can be quite heavy, it's a good idea to have a helper on hand for removing the fan and hanging the new fixture.
Instructions
1. Turn off the power to the fan's circuit at the home's service panel (breaker box). Test the fan to confirm the power is off.
2. Remove the fan blades, light bulbs, and any other parts to simplify removal. Loosen and slide down the decorative cover at the ceiling to expose the electrical box. Test the wires with a circuit tester to confirm the power is off, then disconnect the fan wires from the circuit wires by unscrewing the wire nuts (plastic wire connectors).
3. Remove any mounting bolts, support brackets, anchors or other fasteners to remove the fan completely.
4. Install the mounting strap (if applicable) for the new fixture onto the electrical box. Connect the to the fixture's wire leads or screw terminals following the manufacturer's wiring diagram. Carefully tuck the wires into the electrical box and mount the fixture as directed.
5. Restore power to the circuit and test the fixture.
Tags: circuit wires, confirm power, , power circuit
Sandpaper may be required to smooth the ceiling after popcorn ceiling removal.
Popcorn ceiling paint is a joint compound-like paste applied with a long-nap roller. Usually, the paint is applied in a thick layer--this makes it easier to remove by scraping. If a thin layer was applied, sanding may be required. The number of paint layers also matter; several layers are easier to remove since the paint holds the ceiling together, allowing it to come off in strips or large chunks. In addition, paint removal is affected by the underlying ceiling. A popcorn ceiling separates easily from a smooth underlying ceiling, but it is more difficult to remove the popcorn layer from textured plaster.
Instructions
1. Remove all furniture from the room. If this is not possible, move all furniture to one side of the room.
2. Place drop cloths over the floor. If furniture has been moved to one side of the room, place drop cloths over the furniture too.
3. Shut doors leading to the room. If there are no doors, use duct tape to attach plastic drop cloth sheets over the doorways, creating "doors" that prevent dust from leaving the room.
4. Don a face mask and protective goggles. Climb a ladder so that you can access the ceiling.
5. Place the tip of a large putty knife against the ceiling; hold the handle at a 20-degree angle relative to the ceiling.
6. Tap the end of the putty knife handle with a mallet or hammer, using mild to moderate force, until the putty knife blade penetrates the popcorn ceiling paint.
7. Scrape off the layer of popcorn ceiling paint by placing the blade at the point where the layer of popcorn paint meets the underlying ceiling. In some cases, simply pushing the blade forward by hand will be enough to separate the layer of popcorn paint. In other cases, you will need to repeat steps 5 and 6 many times to remove the paint.
8. Sand the ceiling with a random orbital sander, if necessary. This is often necessary to remove stubborn patches of . Begin with coarse grit sandpaper, and then switch to progressively smaller grits to give the ceiling a smooth finish. Note that a perfectly smooth finish may not be required if the ceiling will be refinished.
9. Wipe the ceiling down thoroughly with a damp sponge. If you run your finger across the ceiling, and it comes off white, you'll need to wipe the ceiling down again. The dust from the scraping and sanding process will prevent plaster or paint from adhering properly.
10. Refinish the ceiling with decorative plaster, or continue sanding with increasingly finer paper to prepare the surface for paint. When removing popcorn ceiling, keep in mind that the ceiling almost always requires refinishing or, at minimum, painting. If you're painting the underlying ceiling without refinishing, use a fine grit and even a very fine grit sandpaper to ensure the smoothest possible finish and wipe the ceiling down after you have finished the last round of sanding.
Pickled wood panels have a white-washed appearance.
Wood panels are an attractive decor option for interior walls; however, paneled rooms are often dark. For those who want to update wood paneling without removing it, there is the option of painting it. Although wood paneling is easily primed and painted with a solid color paint, there are other options. Pickling is a paint technique that applies a whitewash to the wood panels. The result is a completely new look for the room that still reveals the grain of the wood.
Instructions
1. Clean the surface of the wood panels thoroughly using a scrubber sponge and a degreasing cleaner. Make sure to wipe every inch of surface, as any oil or dust will interfere with the pickling process.
2. Lay a plastic tarp over the entire surface of the floor and place tape on all baseboards and molding. Make sure there are no small spaces near the floor boards, as pickling paint is very thin and splatters easily.
3. Pour 1 gallon of white or off-white paint into a 3-gallon bucket. You can use either water-based paint or oil-based paint for the project.
4. Dilute the paint by 25 percent to form the pickling finish. When using water-based paint, add 1 quart of water to the bucket. When using oil-based paint, add 1 quart of paint thinner to the bucket. Stir the bucket mixture well with a paint stirrer.
5. Dip a paint brush into the bucket of pickling paint and apply it to the wall in long thin strokes. Cover an area that is approximately 4 feet by 4 feet and then stop. Allow the paint to sit for ten minutes.
6. Wipe the painted area with a clean cloth using long downward strokes. Do not rub the cloth back and forth. If desired, wipe the area a second time to achieve a lighter appearance.
7. Continue painting small sections of the paneling and wiping it down until all of the wood paneling is covered.
8. Allow the paint to dry overnight and apply a thin coat of clear water-based sealant on top of the wood panels. Brush the sealant on gently so as not to dissolve the pickling underneath it. Wait until dry and apply a second coat to cover any missed areas.
A cracked or damaged ceiling can be a real eyesore in a home.
A ceiling in many indoor spaces can often go unnoticed, unless there is a problem with it. Whether it's unsightly water damage, cracks or just unattractive textured stucco, you may be looking for ways to cover up your ceilings and enhance the look of your indoor space. Covering up is not a permanent solution but you can disguise the unsightly features that detract from the beauty of your room for a fraction of the cost of completely replacing or restoring your ceiling.
Paint
If you do not like the color of your ceiling, a coat of paint can be just the trick but painting to cover water damage or mold is not the best solution. However, if you are simple hiding unsightly discolorations, paint can be all you need. Use a simple coat of paint to match the other ceilings in your home, or take this opportunity to add a punch of drama to the space with a vibrant color.
Textured Treatment
If your ceiling is misshapen or features strange patchwork, a textured treatment is your best option for hiding inconsistencies. "Popcorn" ceiling comes from splattering plaster on the ceiling in a bumpy pattern that resembles popcorn kernels. Another way to use plaster to disguise inconsistencies is to spray plaster on the ceiling and smooth it into a textured pattern with a sponge, textured roller or rag.
Fabric
To provide more insulation and hide an ugly ceiling, fabric can be just the option you need. It is unlikely that you will find a single piece of fabric that will completely cover your ceiling, so you apply fabric in sections to the ceiling. Hide seam lines with ribbon or piping. For a long-term option, staple the fabric in place. For a solution that is easy to remove, dip the fabric in a fabric starch and use as an adhesive to stick to the ceiling. Lightweight fabrics work best for this project.
Wallpaper
Wallpaper does not have to be just for covering walls. It can add instant presence to your interior space if you put it on the ceiling. This option can detract from unsightly ceilings while providing an interesting design element. Choose a wallpaper with self-adhesive backing or apply a water-activated paste to the back of the paper before applying.
Drop Ceiling
Commonly seen in areas such as offices and classrooms, drop ceilings are synthetic board tiles held in place with metal brackets. You can install these brackets below your ugly ceiling to hide discoloration and damage.
Ceiling Medallions
If you only have one area on your ceiling that you want to cover, decorative ceiling medallions are an attractive choice. These go in the center of . They look especially decorative surrounding ceiling fans and lighting fixtures. A more affordable way to get this look is with by painting a mural or stencil to mimic the look of a ceiling medallion.
Tags: your ceiling, , cover your, detract from, plaster ceiling, that will, ugly ceiling
For most families, the kitchen is the center of the bustling, busy home. It is often where they spend the most time together, so having a well-equipped and attractively decorated kitchen can add that extra touch. Decorating in a farmhouse style can especially add a warm, cozy feeling. With a few tips, you can be well on your way to the farmhouse kitchen of your dreams.
Walls and Cabinetry
The first thing you may consider is adding a splash of color to walls. Try to think outside the box when it comes to paint colors. You may want to stay within your comfort zone with neutral colors, like white or tan, but maybe it's time to start thinking about warmer, more inviting colors, like a warm mocha or a blue-green, or you might even like a darker shade of red. You want a color that is pleasing to the eye and promotes the warmth of a farmhouse kitchen.
When it comes to your cabinets, a pine finish is probably one of the most popular for decorating in a farmhouse style. White cabinets can also add a hint of country but also provide a fresh, crisp feel to the kitchen; contrasting the white cabinets with a wood finish countertop is even more appealing. There are also techniques to make your cabinets look older with more of an antique feel. Gomestic even suggests painting your walls with a sponge to make it look older and more antiqued (see References below). With some simple painting and sanding techniques, you can have a very shabby chic look to your kitchen.
To spruce your walls up a bit, there are lots of different selections of wallpaper or border available. You make a backsplash out of tile; you can get creative with different shades of tile and have a terrific masterpiece when done.
Furniture and Appliances
Furniture and appliances for your kitchen abound in so many different styles today. Stainless steel is an option that looks great and will match just about any decor you decide to use. If you don't want to have such a modern look though, you can opt to buy from companies who sell older, retro-looking appliances, like stoves and refrigerators. If you actually want an older appliance, even just for decor, auctions are an excellent place to look as are antique and resale shops.
For furniture, try shopping at places other than the main stores. Get out into the smaller shops and stores that sell used items or antiques; hit the garage sales on the weekends. You'll want to look for a big table; this is one piece of furniture that is necessary in a farmhouse kitchen. An old sideboard or china hutch can be transformed with a little bit of work. You might even use an old table as a kitchen island. An old refrigerator or stove, if not in working order, could be cleaned up and used as a storage area for canned foods, towels or whatever you may need.
If possible, a fireplace or wood-burning stove gives of the farmhouse feel to your kitchen, not to mention the warmth they would give off in the winter months.
Floor, Windows and Accessories
Your floor can offset the whole look of the kitchen, and in order to get a farmhouse feel, you may choose to have a wood floor. A darker wood floor, such as a cherry finish, will usually look more rustic. You may choose to have a tile floor though, and in that case, a bigger tile floor could look very distinguished, especially if the colors were well chosen. A black and white tile floor always stands out, as would a brown and white tile floor. Of course, for even more of a rustic feel, you might like a stone tile floor, and again there are many colors to choose from, based on the colors you chose for the walls. You want your floor to complement your walls and cabinets. Once you have your flooring down, try adding a rug or two. Braided rugs are especially country looking.
Your windows could be kept completely free of treatments, depending on your tastes; or you might choose to put up a valance or shade of some sort. Fabric shades and tie-up curtains can be a wonderful addition to any window. You don't have to stick with the ready-made curtains in the stores; if you can't find any that appeal to you, you can always buy the fabric and pattern of your choice and make them yourself.
As for accessories, all you have to do is take a look around. Look in antique and resale shops, and you might even look online. Old tins, bottles and jars can be placed around your kitchen, even on top of your cabinets. You can use old grapevines that you find and weave decorative berry vines in with them to make a decoration for over the top of your cabinets or even the tops of your windows. Wooden shelves can be hung on to hold collectibles or old kitchen utensils used for decorating. Use tea towels or find old burlap feedsacks to use for decor; you can lay them on surfaces as a type of runner, or you can even hang one on the wall. Old utensils, like rolling pins, beaters, platters or pitchers, can be added. You may find old pictures of family and get them blown up to the right size and printed; then frame them in antique-looking frames, and hang them on your walls. You might even find pictures in old magazines that you can frame and decorate with. Hang an apron on a nail for a soft effect. Candles add a warm effect to any room. Try placing a checkered or old-looking tablecloth on your table. Baskets can be used to hold cookbooks or food items. Old cookbooks can be placed on your china hutch or sideboard. You can make your own wooden signs and plaques using vinyl letters to make the sayings of your choice; of course, you can also find these at craft fairs. Old crockery is another way to add the farmhouse touch to any kitchen. Lastly, add a plant or two for a country feel; geraniums especially look great in a farmhouse kitchen.
Ideas for a farmhouse kitchen are endless indeed; with these tips and your imagination at work, you can soon have the farmhouse kitchen you've been dreaming of.
Tags: might even, tile floor, your kitchen, your walls, your cabinets, even more, farmhouse kitchen
Doors are often subject to high levels of traffic and abuse. Because of this wear and tear, the finish on an exterior door can become scratched or damaged over time. Painted doors can also fade due to sun exposure, which can reduce the visual appeal of the home. To restore the look of your door, you'll need to remove it from the frame and repaint it. Choosing the right tools and paint for the job will help ensure you'll get the best possible results.
Instructions
Repainting Steel Doors
1. Remove the door from the opening, and set it on a pair of padded sawhorses. Use a screwdriver or drill to remove all hardware, and cover windows or other specialty features with painter's tape to protect them as you work.
2. Scrape away loose or flaking paint. Test different parts of the door to check for loose paint, and remove the paint from these areas using a paint scraper or putty knife.
3. Sand any remaining paint on the door using an orbital palm sander. Use a light-grit sanding pad for this task. Rather than trying to remove all the paint, light sanding will help to prepare the existing surface to receive new paint.
4. Clean the door to remove all sanding dust. Apply mineral spirits to a rag, and use it to wipe the door clean. Make sure all dust is removed, as well as any marks caused by dirt or grease.
5. Prime the door using an acrylic latex primer. Apply the primer using a small paint roller or brush. Be sure to prime all six sides and edges of the door, and allow the primer to dry completely before proceeding.
6. Sand the primer lightly, and clean away all sanding dust with a damp rag or a tack cloth.
7. Paint the door using a paint roller or a variety of brushes. Flush doors will require only a roller or brush, and you can paint them in smooth, even strokes. Paint paneled doors in sections, working from the inside out. For example, paint the flat panels first, then the trim or molding. Paint the rails and edges to complete the job. Once the door is dry, reapply hardware and hang the door back into the frame.
Repainting Wood Doors
8. Remove the door from the opening, and set it on a pair of sawhorses. Remove hardware and cover windows or louvers for protection.
9. Sand the flat sections of the door using an orbital palm sander. Remove any existing paint or stain, as well as primer, if applicable.
10. Scrape paint from molding or trim. You may need to use several different types of paint scrapers, depending on the profile of the molding.
11. Hand sand smaller sections that you can't access with a sander or scraper. Be sure to remove paint from all four edges of the door as well as all areas on the front and back faces.
12. Clean the door with mineral spirits to wipe away sanding dust and dirt. Use a rag to apply the mineral spirits to the door, and switch to another clean rag to wipe away any excess dirt or cleaning products.
13. Prime the an acrylic latex primer. Work in separate sections to help maintain separation. For example, start with any flat paneled sections, and proceed with trim. Prime rails and stiles, and coat all four edges. Use a roller to brush for this task.
14. Paint the door using an acrylic latex paint. Work in sections as you did with the primer. This helps to keep each section or profile of the door from blending into the areas nearby. It also keeps molding and trim profiles looking sharp, which helps to emphasize the design of the door. Apply a second coat after the first coat has dried if desired. Reinstall hardware, and rehang the door to complete the project.
Tags: door using, acrylic latex, door from, door using acrylic, mineral spirits, paint from
Paper lanterns add a festive ambience to any gathering.
Festive paper lanterns convey a sense of lighthearted and carefree enjoyment to almost any special occasion. These decorative accents can be obtained inexpensively at party supply and craft stores in various designs and in a multitude of colors. Many can be illuminated with the use of small LED lights, which are safer than candles, but still produce a luminous glow during an evening of entertainment and celebration. Although paper lanterns usually have flat bases that can be arranged on tables or along walkways, they can also be suspended to great effect. Some lanterns are packaged with small hooks from which they can be hung, but it is not always clear attach the hooks themselves to a ceiling or above a roomful of guests. Fortunately, you can use simple and economical items to hang your paper lanterns from the ceiling in only a few minutes, allowing you plenty of time to oversee the rest of the last-minute party details before your guests arrive.
Instructions
1. Find out how high your ceiling is in the room where your party will be held. Remember that no suspended lantern should hang lower than 1 foot above the extended arm's reach of your tallest guest. This estimated number is different for everyone. Keep in mind that female guests may be wearing high-heeled shoes. This general rule is used to keep your decorations from being in the way of your guests as they move about the room. Lanterns can always be hung higher, but they should not be much lower, unless that is the effect desired.
2. Use scissors to cut varying lengths of the fishing line, taking into account that the addition of the suspended lantern will extend how low the ornament will hang. For example, if you have determined that you have ceilings that are 12 feet from the floor, and your tallest guest, in shoes, is about 6-feet tall, then the bottom of your lowest lantern should not hang any lower than about 10 feet above the floor, or 2 feet from the ceiling. You can use the following formula to determine the appropriate height of the lantern: 6 feet (height of tallest guest in shoes) + 3 feet (average extended arm's length) + 1 foot (additional clearance) - the height of the ceiling. You can choose to subtract from this number the height of the lantern itself, especially if your lanterns are large. This means that if you have a dozen lanterns, you can cut four lengths of fishing line to 2 feet, four lengths to 1 1/2 feet, and four lengths to 1 foot in length. This can also be done with satin ribbons. Fishing line will be virtually invisible in low light, giving the appearance of the lanterns floating in mid-air, and satin ribbons will gently reflect any ambient light.
3. Attach the hooks, if included, to the lanterns. If none have been included in the packaging, place a piece of clear tape at the top of the lantern, and use a hole puncher to pierce a hole through the center of the tape. Repeat this directly across from the first taped hole. The tape reinforces the thin paper of the lantern and prevents tearing. Slide a small paper clip through each of the holes to create "hooks."
4. Take the individual lengths of fishing line or ribbon and tie them to the hooks by making a simple knot or two. From this point, you have at least two choices. You can use tape to attach the free ends of the ribbons or fishing line strings to the ceiling so that you create a grouping of lanterns that suspend directly from it. A second option would be to use a tape measure to determine the span of the room. Cut a long length of fishing line to this room's size, plus 2 inches. Secure the fishing line on each side with tape, tightly and horizontally against the ceiling at either end of the room, or an inch or two below it. Hang the lantern hooks on this string at even intervals, allowing the lanterns to hang freely at the end of their vertical ribbons or fishing line strings. If you are using paper clips instead of prefabricated hooks, you might want to thread the extra-long fishing line string through the clips before securing the line across the length of the room. After the line has been secured, you can evenly space your paper lanterns to hang them beneath the ceiling.
Tags: fishing line, four lengths, lengths fishing, lengths fishing line,
Coffered ceilings are gorgeous and have a tremendous impact on the look and feel of an interior space. They are an expression of luxury and refinement. However, these beautiful ceilings do not come with a luxury sized price tag. Building coffered ceilings is technically no different than framing a wall and finishing it with crown molding and trim.
Instructions
1. Make a ceiling plan and layout the coffer grid. Each recessed square area in the coffered ceiling grid should be the same dimension. The width and height of the box beams also has to be uniform. The grid can either start along the perimeter wall or be inset from the perimeter wall as shown in the ceiling plan on the left.
Insetting the coffered ceiling allows for the elegant 45 degree corners, also shown in the ceiling plan. Importantly, an inset coffered ceiling requires a soffit ceiling to be framed around the entire perimeter of the coffered ceiling. This allows the coffered ceiling to look recessed within the ceiling of the room.
2. The entire coffered ceiling is only a series of faux (fake) beams, hence the framing aspect is very straight forward and relatively fast. A faux beam is just a long wooden box that will receive the finish wood cladding and trim. There are several ways to frame those boxes. Some carpenters build the faux beam boxes on the ground out of 1x material and hoist them into place, while others frame the faux beams directly to the ceiling joists. The latter method is pictured to the left.
3. Since you are likely not an experienced carpenter, frame your boxes piece by piece to the ceiling joists. Building them on the ground out of 1x's will be a frustrating process. Begin by nailing the top part of the beam to the ceiling joists using 2x6's, you can use two 2x4's if you want the beam larger. Determine your beam height and cut several cripple studs (intermediate vertical supports) of that length to get started. Install one cripple stud at each end of the beam, where the beam terminates into the wall.
Now, nail in a 2x6 that is the same length as the one you just installed to underside of the cripple studs nailed to the wall. This 2x6 creates the bottom of your beam. The 2x6 may sag down depending how long your faux beam span is. This will disappear as you fill in the void between the 2x6's with cripple studs at every 16" on center.
4. Clad the faux beam sides with 1x finish wood. Run the side pieces 1-1/8" past the bottom 2x6 or whatever lumber you framed with. This will allow for a 1/4" shadow line once you install your 3/4" finish wood piece to the bottom of the faux beam. Reference the picture to the left to see how the shadow line creates a classic looking coffered ceiling beam.
5. Install the crown molding. OK, this is project is best suited to do on the ground whether you are a green or experienced carpenter. Since all of your recessed coffer dimensions are the same, you can build replica crown molding boxes on table and install them with ease as a pre assembled unit. Do a mock up first. Miter cut each corner and glue the crown pieces together using clamps. Let it dry and then raise crown box into place and see how it fits. Once your set up is dialed in, fabricate all the crown boxes then tack them into the beams with a finish nail gun.
6. You have many finish options for the flat portion of the coffered ceiling between the crown molding. For a classic Victorian finish, you can add a tin ceiling inlay, which just glues and can be painted. You can add plaster ornamentations, which also essentially glue into place. Hanging chandeliers and ceiling fans look great installed within the center of a coffered ceiling, reference the above picture.
Tags: coffered ceiling, faux beam, crown molding, into place, ceiling joists, ceiling plan
A penthouse condo with floor to ceiling windows brings the surrounding cityscape into your home. This amazing view can give you hours of endless reflection as you sit on your sofa looking outside. But it can also be uncomfortable, as you're open on all sides, raising privacy concerns. However, by selecting a few decorating options you can turn your condo into a home where you can relax, entertain and enjoy the space.
Instructions
1. Apply a window treatment. Drape sheer panels from a ceiling rod that allow light in by day, yet provide privacy at night. Attach a light-blocking window film to reduce the amount of sunlight received inside the condo.
2. Design the wall treatment. Paint the wall a darker color to make a large room appear smaller or cozier, while a lighter paint enlarges the vastness of the space and bounces the light off the walls. Emphasize architectural features, such as a brick wall or corner alcove.
3. Install molding in each room. Encase the windows with wooden trim that resembles a frame to capture the view. Connect the wall and ceiling with crown molding, while applying baseboards just above the floor.
4. Position the furniture so you can see the view, rather than pushing it back against the wall. Use mirrors on the wall to bounce the light and bring the views into other areas of the room. Select leather furniture because it wears well and can withstand the constant light.
5. Place live plants throughout the condo. Select plants that thrive in direct sunlight and prefer strong sun. Hang the plants from the ceiling and on the wall shelves.
Suspended ceilings, also known as drop ceilings, are a simple way to cover up ventilation, wiring, plumbing and other visual distractions in your basement, converted garage or other living space. The metal grid and textured tiles are quick and inexpensive to install, providing you with a finished look for a minimum of hassle. Suspended ceilings make the installation of canister or recessed lighting easier than with traditional ceilings. Many canister lights come with an optional bracket specially designed to fit between the rails of a suspended ceiling.
Instructions
1. Have an electrician run wiring from your breaker box to each location you plan to install a light. Check your fixtures to determine if you need the electrician to install junction boxes, or if your lights have them built in. Locate and label the breaker for the lights and turn it off.
2. Remove the tiles that will have lights installed in them from the ceiling grid. Use the paper template that comes with the suspended ceiling installation kit to mark the ceiling tile for the light. Cut the hole out with a drywall saw as neatly as possible.
3. Replace the tile in the grid and lift the two tiles on either side out and tuck them back up in the ceiling to gain access to the frame from above. Consult the installation instructions with your brackets for specifics of your brand. In general, install the two rails of the bracket to the rails on either side of the lighted panel. Adjust them the proper distance apart and snap then in place by pressing down firmly on the end to snap it over the bead on the top of the ceiling grid rail.
4. Install the round, cradle portion of the bracket between the two bracket rails, centered directly above the hole you cut in the tile. Have a helper lift the light fixture up through the hole in the tile and the bracket cradle until it is flush with the bracket face. Slide the fixture anchor clips into place, typically one from each side, to hold the light suspended in the bracket.
5. Install the spring-loaded trim ring from underneath, pressing up until the flexible clips snap into place in the barrel of the light. Run the wire leads from the light to the junction box, or bring the electrician-installed wiring to the junction on the light. Strip the ends of all wires back 1 inch from the end with wire strippers. Remove the front plate of the junction box with a screwdriver and feed the wires into it. Match the wires color for color; black to black, white to white and green to green. Twist a wire nut onto each color coded pair and wrap that with electrical tape.
6. Repeat the cutting, installation and wiring process for each tile and light. Replace the tiles you lifted out and turn the breaker on to test the lights.
Tags: bracket rails, Canister Fixtures, Canister Fixtures Suspended, , either side
Classy elements like gold plumbing fixtures make a pink bathroom feel sophisticated.
Walking into a bathroom with pink walls can be daunting for any do-it-yourself decorator. Decorating a pink bathroom requires careful thought or you might end up with something that feels too frilly, tacky or childish for your taste. The key to creating a beautiful bathroom in pink is to incorporate subtle elements and balance the frivolity of this lively color with mature colors and materials. Whether you decide to embrace the femininity of pink or try to tone it down, a few simple steps will help you create an attractive look for any pink bathroom.
Instructions
1. Paint trim and other paintable accessories a neutral color like white, beige or taupe for a calming effect. You don't want to compete with the boldness of your pink bathroom, and neutral tones will help temper an otherwise outlandish pink backdrop.
2. Install a neutral-colored shower curtain featuring a lacy design or subtle texture to embrace the femininity of your pink bathroom while still maintaining a sophisticated air. Choose similar styles for bathroom linens and curtains.
3. Add gold plumbing elements and an ornate gold-framed mirror to further add sophistication to your pink bathroom. Gold both adds both warmth to your pink bathroom and a harder, more masculine style with its metallic texture.
4. Install an old-fashioned, footed tub in white or cream, if possible. This style embraces the retro look that pink can invoke while adding maturity to the overall look of your bathroom.
5. Install marble countertops in a light, neutral color to further add maturity to your bathroom's style. Marble has a regal look and will help tame the often too-playful look of pink walls.
6. Purchase black, taupe, or metallic bathroom accessories, such as toothbrush holders and soap dishes. These colors will help balance out the softer look of pink.
Tags: pink bathroom, will help, your pink, your pink bathroom, look pink, embrace femininity, gold plumbing
Seashore decorating has always been popular, which makes it easy to find everything you need in local stores or online for a seashore bathroom. If you want a very natural-looking decor, you can even hunt for decorating items at the beach. You can also buy shells, sand dollars, starfish and similar items while you're on vacation at a beach community.
Decorate With Matching Sets
Many stores have matching shower curtains, towels and other accessories for a beach-themed bathroom--perhaps with a fish or shell motif. Pick out a set you like and decorate your bathroom with complementary colors. Bring it all together by painting the walls a sky blue or a sandy beige. Then add bath rugs or scatter rugs in matching colors. For furniture in your bathroom, use pale wicker or white wicker.
Creating a Natural Look
To create your own seashore theme, keep it as natural as possible. Use a tan or sea-blue sheer shower curtain over a clear or tan liner. Seashore scenes painted on white wood furniture and real clam shells for soap dishes will give you the feeling of being right on the beach. Hang pictures of lighthouses or beach scenes. Use seashell hooks to hang your shower curtain. Place carved wooden seagulls on a shelf. Bring it all together with walls painted a sand color on the bottom and water color on top, with a cream or white chair rail.
Make Your Own Decorations
You can get very creative with a seashore motif. You can outline the mirror with seashells using glue and a craft sealer. Glue dried starfish to hooks to hang hand towels, and glue little shells to hooks. Try painting a beach mural on a wall and drilling holes in a piece of driftwood to hold little candles. Use a nightlight that looks like a lighthouse. If you have collected seashells on your last beach vacation, put them in a pretty glass jar. You can even try making a shelf out of a large piece of driftwood by cutting part of the top flat and displaying a shell collection.
With the growing popularity of vessel sink fixtures in bathroom vanities, more and more people are looking to install vessel sinks. Whether you are putting in new countertops or installing the vessel sink in an existing one, this is a relatively simple task for someone who has some plumbing and carpentry skills. If you need to put in new water and drain lines, you may want to seek the help of a professional plumber. Otherwise, choose the vessel sink that fits the opening in your countertop and install it.
Instructions
1. Examine your vessel sink to decide if it should set directly on top of the countertop or if you can install it partially below the countertop. (See References 1) Vessel sink fixtures set into the countertop have more stability over time because they have more support. One setting on top of the countertop has the drain fixture and some silicone caulking holding the bottom of the vessel in place. Putting a vessel sink on top of the countertop may put the sink at an uncomfortable height for use as well.
2. Measure your vessel sink against the holes in the vanity countertop for the plumbing fixtures to make sure everything is going to fit. The vanity countertop you choose needs to have holes for the plumbing fixtures as well as a hole for the vessel sink's drain. If you are drilling the holes in a solid countertop, make sure you can cut the countertop material easily. Some materials require special tools and are hard to cut.
3. Make a cardboard template of where the holes need to be and drill them. (See References 2) Check that the holes line up properly. If they don't line up, make fine adjustments so that they do.
4. Install the vanity and countertop. Secure them to the wall and floor.
5. Put the drain fixture in place on the vessel sink. Tighten it by hand. Be careful not to crack the vessel sink.
6. Run a bead of silicone caulking around the opening for the sink's drain on the countertop for an above-counter sink. If your vessel sink came with a connecting ring to serve as an additional cushion for sink, set it in place. Put the vessel sink on the connecting ring and silicone caulking. Check to make sure the vessel is level. To set a recessed vessel sink simply set the vessel sink into the hole in the countertop. Caulk around the edges.
7. Install the faucets. Connect the water lines as well as the drain lines to complete your project.
Tags: vessel sink, vessel sink, your vessel sink, make sure, silicone caulking, vanity countertop, your vessel
Yes, you can paint over a chrome chandelier to make the light fixture reflect a color you want. It is best to use an aerosol can or airbrush to apply the paint so you ensure that each surface has a smooth, even coat. Always products in a well-ventilated area to minimize fume inhalation.
Preparation
Prepare the chandelier by cleaning the surface of dust and dirt. Wipe down the light fixture with a clean, damp cloth. Dampen a cotton swab with water to clean out any crevices. It is important to remove all surface grime before applying the paint because dirt particles trapped under a coat of paint will show through.
Cover the chandelier parts that you do not want to paint with a plastic material. Use a painter's tape to hold the plastic down. This tape uses delicate adhesive that prevents paint from collecting underneath but is also easy to remove. Take out any light bulbs and cover the sockets with the plastic and tape. You can cover the bulbs instead of removing them, but since you will be moving the light fixture around, taking out the bulbs eliminates the chance of breakage.
Applying Primer
Lay the chandelier on some newspaper placed on a work counter or other surface on which you do not mind getting paint. The workspace will also double as a drying area, so use a cool room with a spot that is free of direct sunlight. Sand away any existing paint to provide a clear and smooth surface for the primer or paint. Chandeliers with a large amount of scratches or uneven spots due to rusting need to be covered in primer prior to painting to achieve a smoothly finished product. Wear a face mask that limits fume inhalation and eyewear to prevent getting the primer or paint in your eyes. Apply one coat of primer over the entire fixture and allow it to dry.
Applying the Paint
Spray a coat of paint, made specifically for metals, over the dry primer. Use a slow, side-to-side motion to cover the entire surface with an equal amount of paint. Spray over the plastic covers and painter's tape to ensure the edges are coated with the same amount of paint as the other surfaces. Use a series of light layers instead of a single, heavy coat. The label will inform you of an appropriate number of coats to reach a rich color. Because aerosol sprays or airbrushes distribute less paint than a paintbrush application, you will need at least two coats.
False beams can be used to simulate structural ceiling beams for a decorative ceiling detail. They can be made with real wood, or with manufactured plastic, fiberglass or Styrofoam, and mounted to the existing ceiling for a decorative effect. Prefabricated false beams are attached to the ceiling according to manufacturer specifications. Some use glues or other adhesives, while others require screws or nails. Wooden false beams require trim carpentry skills, tools and mechanical attachments to the existing ceiling.
Instructions
1. Research use ceiling beams in design detailing. Consult home magazines, design websites and books on vintage homes.
2. Plan the configuration, spacing and size of the false beams to create the desired effect. Consider your ceiling height, light fixture locations, room size and room layout. Sketch the false beam configuration. Keep the plan symmetrical and square to enhance ceiling dimensions. A simple false beam arrangement is to place the beams around the perimeter of the room, then cross the ceiling in only one direction with equally spaced false beams. False beams can also be run across the ceiling, from one side of the room to the other without perimeter beams. To add ceiling detail that incorporates recessed lights, can be criss-crossed to form trays in the ceiling, thus creating several boxes for lighting installation.
3. Determine the depth, width and trim style of the false beams to accent and add detail to a ceiling. Prefabricated beams are available in manufactured widths and depths; custom ones can be cut as wide as you want.
4. Enhance ceiling detail by painting or staining natural wood false beams in a contrasting or complementary color. Accent the sides of false beams with traditional crown molding, cove molding or shoe molding.
5. Keep in mind that false beams will make a ceiling appear lower and make the room look smaller. Painting beams a light color help offset this effect.
A sparkling chandelier sets a dramatic, romantic feeling.
Chandeliers add a dramatic, romantic feeling to a bedroom, creating a big design statement. They can work with any type of design style, from traditional to ultramodern. As you choose a chandelier for your bedroom, look for one that takes your decor scheme up a notch; the chandelier should turn the bedroom into a luxurious, romantic retreat.
Rich Colors
If your idea of a romantic space includes luxury and rich textures, choose a chandelier in a deep, glamorous color. A purple or crimson chandelier, for example, creates an unexpected and dramatic touch to your bedroom. Bold colors are modern and romantic and go well with a rich bedroom design. To make the most of the colors, pair the chandelier with candles that will set off the rich tones.
Ornate Details
For an over-the-top romantic feeling in your bedroom, go with an ornate, dramatic chandelier. Look for designs that have looping, curling details or carved flowers. For a traditional look, for example, go with a wrought-iron chandelier that you might find in an Italian villa. Ornate designs lend a decadent, rich look and make the chandelier the focal point of the room. If you have high ceilings, a large, ornate chandelier can make the room feel more accessible and cozy.
Monochromatic
In a modern bedroom, a simple, monochromatic chandelier adds a romantic touch without becoming the focal point of the room. Choose a chandelier in the same color as the ceiling, so that its details stand out without overwhelming the space. It also works in a small bedroom or one with low ceilings; the color blends into the ceiling and creates less of a visual obstruction. The color continuity complements a modern design scheme, even if the chandelier itself is traditional.
Shimmer and Sparkle
A shimmering, sparkling chandelier creates a dramatic feeling in your bedroom, providing multiple surfaces to reflect the light. Find a chandelier with a metallic finish, hanging crystals or glass construction. For an easy do-it-yourself project, glue on rhinestones, or hang glass crystals from the base. The light will reflect off of the facets, creating a sparkle and a glow around the bedroom. A sparkling chandelier is romantic in both the daylight and the evening.
Tags: your bedroom, romantic feeling, sparkling chandelier, ,