Many individuals do not give their ceilings much attention when it comes to decorating or remodeling an interior space, and instead favor the floors and walls. However, according to interior designer Patricia Gray, treating your ceilings is incredibly important and can help add an entirely new dimension to a room. If you are trying to create a modern or contemporary style, there are several specific ceiling treatment options you can use.
Dropped Ceilings
Dropped ceilings, also known as suspended and false ceilings, are secondary panels or structures that hang below main ceilings. For example, according to Patricia Gray, some designers use panels of varying sizes and shapes, and suspend them at various heights. This adds additional layers of depth to the space, and produces a cutting edge---almost futuristic---style. Alternatively, you can use symmetrically shaped panels, hung at uniform heights, to create a more conservative look (suitable for a modern office building). According to Ceiling Help, metal panels---as opposed to wood panels---are a more durable choice for contemporary dropped ceilings.
Glass Cloth
Glass cloth is a textile comprised of woven glass fibers. It comes in variety of different colors, and gives ceilings a dimensional, textured quality that standard paints and wallpapers cannot achieve. According to Ceiling Help, using sheets of the fabric on your ceilings---either directly or on dropped ceiling panels---is the new age method for creating modern ceilings and contemporary atmospheres. Manufacturers also incorporate glass cloth into acoustic ceiling systems. While a mineral wool does most of the sound-absorbing, the glass cloth comprises the decorative exterior, which is what you see.
Faux Finish
A faux (false) finish is a treatment that imitates a particular material. For example, painting bricks on to a flat concrete surface will create a faux brick finish. For a modern faux-finish look, try treating your ceiling with a metallic paint, which has small flakes of metal in it, or a pearlescent paint, which contains small bits of glass. While the former will give your ceiling a shine, as if it is made of metal, the latter will create a shimmering, glass-like finish.
Tudor Style
The Tudor style of architecture dates back to the late 15th century, and is characterized by its use of perpendicular lines and ornate decorating. Despite its age, according to Patricia Gray, the Tudor style ceiling works well in modern setting. The ceiling treatment features a series of raised lines of molding, which form repeating geometric shapes and patterns.
Tags: Patricia Gray, According Ceiling, According Ceiling Help, , according Patricia Gray, Ceiling Help
Open concept designs are common in today's homes, but that wasn't always the case. Many older homes had separate rooms until iconic architect Frank Lloyd Wright's designs promoted the idea that one room flow into the next. Decorating these large spaces is challenging, but you can do it by learning a few simple design techniques.
Colors
One key to successfully decorating an open kitchen-living room floor plan is to visually unite the two areas with color. That doesn't mean you have to paint all the walls the same color, but work within one color palette so that you are using colors that complement each other. For example, if you are going for a Tuscan feel, work with earth tones, perhaps painting the kitchen sage green and the living room a burnished gold. Highlight both rooms with accessories that echo those colors as well as some in rich hues for accents that pop.
Floors, cabinets and countertop choices also unite the rooms with color. Keep the same type of floor throughout the space rather than breaking it up with two different coverings. If that isn't possible, be sure both areas have flooring that is close to the same color. Choose kitchen cupboards that complement the living room's window trim and moldings, and be sure you countertop is in the same color palette.
Furniture
In an open floor plan, your furniture choices should reflect the same style throughout. If you have a rustic country kitchen, don't furnish your living room with sleek, modern pieces. Be sure your furniture looks as good on the back as it does on the front. Because there isn't much wall space in this type of configuration, your couch will often float rather than being pushed against a wall, making all sides visible.
Use furniture pieces to subtly define the space. Set up a conversation area in front of a fireplace, making it the focal point. Arrange stools against a kitchen island or snack bar facing away from the living room. Make use of open bookshelves and folding screens to indicate separate areas.
Architectural Features
Encourage the rooms to flow together by using the same architectural elements in both. If the living room ceiling is beamed, include beams in your kitchen design. Paint or stain all moldings and trim work the same color throughout. If the living room has crown molding, mirror that on your kitchen cabinets. Choose windows in the same style in both rooms. If the living room windows are double-hung windows divided into smaller panes, the kitchen windows should be the same. Employ the same tile work on both the fireplace surround and kitchen backsplash
Tags: living room, same color, , color palette, floor plan, Open concept
Fences made with metal T-posts and wire are the easiest and fastest to install of all permanent fencing. They are relatively inexpensive and require few tools in comparison with wood or vinyl fencing. A single person can set a great many posts in one day, so enclosing even large areas goes quickly---making this method perfect for setting up pasture fences for livestock.
Instructions
Measure for Materials
1. Sketch out your proposed fence lines to determine how many corner posts and regular T-posts you will need. Figure three wooden posts for each fence corner ( and two brace posts).
2. Measure each fence line from corner to corner. Divide the distance by 12 or by 16, depending on whether you want to set your posts 12 or 16 feet apart. This will tell you how many T-posts to buy for each fence line.
3. Determine how many gates you will have and where you will set them. You will need at least two gate posts per gate. The type of gate materials you buy will determine how tall your gate posts should be. The heavier the gate, the sturdier your posts. Tall posts can be used to brace across the top or to support the gate with a cable.
4. Add all the fence-line dimensions together and divide by 12 inches to determine how many feet of fence wire you will need. Fencing comes in rolls of various lengths. Both barbed and barbless twisted wire come in 1320-foot rolls. Field fence usually comes in 330-foot rolls.
5. Factor in additional materials such as staples for securing fence wire to corner posts, gate materials and post-hole diggers.
Set Your Corner Posts
6. Use heavy-duty posts for corners, because the fence wires put a lot of tension on them and you don't want them to sag. Either set them in concrete or cross-brace them, or both.
7. Dig your post holes with the post-hole diggers to a depth of at least 36 inches. Set your first post and level it vertically.
8. Use the excavated dirt to fill in the hole (unless you are using concrete). Pause often while filling in dirt to tamp it down with the bar or the handles of the post-hole diggers. Rock the post slightly as you go to help settle the dirt and test how tight the post is in the hole.
9. Cross-brace your corner posts by setting a second post about six feet to either side and nailing or screwing a 4x4-inch timber horizontally between them about two-thirds of the way up.
Set Your T-Posts
10. Step off or run a long tape measure down your first fence line and lay a T-post every 12 to 16 feet along the line.
11. Secure a string or the middle fence wire to one corner post, then run it down the length of the line to the next corner. Stretch it tight enough to serve as a guide to keep your posts from straggling all over.
12. Mark on the ground where each post should go, or lay each post down at the 12- or 16-foot mark. You want the posts to have a nice, even appearance.
13. Set each T-post with the flat, knobby face facing inward so that if you use electrical wire with your posts, it will be on the inside of the pasture.
14. With the face of the post just touching your string when the post is vertically level, place the open end of the post driver over the top of the post. If you are short or the post driver is very heavy, lay the post down on the ground and put the over the post first, then stand it up against the string on the mark where it should be driven.
15. Raise the post driver as high as you can comfortably hold it without lifting it off the fence post, then bring it down sharply to drive the post into the ground.
16. Drive the T-post in far enough to cover the fins on the bottom end. Do not over-drive it. Animals often lean over the fence, pushing the posts down into soft ground. Getting them out may involve a chain and a lift if they are too far into the ground.
17.Keep an eye on your fence line to ensure the posts are driven in uniformly for height as much as possible.
String Your Wire
18. Run your wires one at a time to avoid tangling them as you work. Start with the bottom wire if you are running four wires, and with the middle wire if you are running three. For four wires, start about 12 inches from the ground and run successive wires every 10 to 12 inches above that. Space a three-wire fence slightly farther apart, but close enough so that animals cannot reach through comfortably.
19. Secure the first wire to the corner post with staples and run it the length of the fence. Make sure you run it out on the correct side of the T-posts (the flat side).
20. Cut the wire at the next corner, leaving a four-foot to six-foot "tail" to help you stretch it. Fasten the tail to the bumper hitch of your truck or tractor and slowly tighten it (or "hand-tighten" it by pulling it as tight as you can). Secure it at the correct height above the ground with a staple or two loosely driven in as guides. Leave the wire connected to the tractor while you are securing it to the T-posts.
21. Do not over-tighten wires, as this could break the wire and cause serious damage or injury. Likewise, while you are working with it, don't drive the staples in too far, as you may need to get them back out to make adjustments, and over-driving could break the wire.
22. Clip the wire to each individual fence post, using the clips that come with the posts and your fence pliers. Definitely wear gloves for this step, as pinched fingers are common.
23. Hook one side of the clip to the wire on one side of the post, then stretch it around the back side of the post and clip it to the wire on the other side. Crimp the ends down tight around the wire with the fence pliers.
24. Keep the wire evenly spaced on the posts and as level in height from post to post as you can. The wire will tighten as you begin securing it to the posts, so make sure it has enough give to work with it easily (another reason for not over-tightening to begin with).
25. Secure each finished wire to the corner post at the far end of the line. Drive in the staples you used to keep it at the correct height on the post, then slowly let off the tension on the line by backing up the truck or tractor. Your wire should remain taut on the posts.
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Wrap the tail of wire around the post and secure it with staples. Don't cut it short, as you may need the extra wire to pull sagging wire taut in the future or to make repairs. Clip off any protruding ends so they don't present a danger to livestock, and you are done with this section of fence.
Tags: corner post, fence line, post driver, post then, wire corner, your posts, corner posts
False ceilings or drop ceilings provide a way to put a ceiling in a basement or garage without having to hang drywall and plaster. They are set on a series of aluminum frames in a grid patterns where the ceiling tiles fit into the rectangles of the grid. It adds a ceiling look with a minimum investment. However, sometimes these tiles can become damaged. Fortunately, replacement is not difficult.
Instructions
1. Count the number of damaged tiles to determine how many you'll have to replace.
2. Remove all of the . If the tile has water damage, look for the source of the leak.
3. Measure the length and width of the gaps in the frame to be replaced, using a tape measure. If the damaged pieces are in corners or at the end of a run, measure and cut with the band saw.
4. Replace the damaged panels by simply removing them and lifting the new one into place. Go first at an angle to insert the tile. This will allow the whole tile to fit above the frame. Simply lower it . Repeat this with all damaged tiles.
Dropped ceilings are found in offices as well as basements.
A dropped ceiling, also known as a drop ceiling or suspended ceiling, may be found in a basement. These ceiling types are often used to conceal electrical or duct work and consist of tiles installed in a frame that drops below the main ceiling. Hanging pictures in the basement from your dropped ceiling prevents you from having to drill into the walls.
Instructions
1. Install one eyehook on either side of the top section of your picture frame. Drill small starter holes for easier insertion if necessary.
2. Measure from the height of the dropped ceiling frame to the point where you want the top of the frame to fall.
3. Cut two pieces of high-tension wire to the length of the measurement plus 6 inches.
4. Climb a ladder with the help of a spotter and gently lift the tile in the dropped ceiling at the point where you want to hang the picture. Have your assistant hand you one wire. Wrap it over the dropped- and fold it over 3 inches. Secure it using a wire-rope clip. Repeat the process with the other wire. Space the wires on the ceiling frame the distance between the eyehooks on the picture frame.
5. Hold your picture frame up to the hanging wires with the help of your assistant. Thread each wire through the corresponding eyehook. Fold it over and secure with the wire-rope clips, completing the hanging process in your basement.
Tags: dropped ceiling, picture frame, your picture frame, ceiling frame, point where
Plaster ceilings can transform the look of a room. Plaster can be applied to raw drywall as the finish coat, or it can be applied to a previously-painted ceiling for a custom effect. The beauty of a plaster ceiling is that it can hide a multitude of defects, does not require any previous experience and can be completed in a day. Although applying plaster can be a sloppy endeavor, the messes are easily cleaned with soap and water.
Instructions
1. Cover the floor, wall-to-wall, with the drop cloth. Cover any furniture in the room.
2. Check that the ceiling is smooth, and remove anything hanging from the ceiling.
3. If the ceiling had been previously painted with a gloss paint, go over it with the sandpaper to roughen it slightly. Wipe it down afterwards with a damp rag.
4. Tape off the walls at the point where they meet the ceiling. The top of the tape should end at the top of the wall. This will keep plaster off your walls, and speed up cleaning time.
5. Put on the goggles. Prepare the pre-mixed plaster according to the manufacturer's directions. Most pre-mixed plasters need to be stirred before using to mix any ingredients that had separated during storage.
6. Using the putty knife, transfer some of the pre-mixed plaster onto the hand-held hawk. A hawk is a square piece of metal with a handle on the bottom. This will make it easier to handle the plaster while on the ladder.
7. Starting at a corner of the room, scoop up some of the plaster with the . Apply to the ceiling, pushing it on with the drywall trowel. Cover only about a 3x3-foot area, but leave the edges random. You don't want your start-stop areas to be noticeable. Apply a fairly even coat of about 1/4 inch. Scoop up , and apply it over the fresh plaster, working it into a pattern or design. It is easiest to use a random pattern. The thicker you apply the plaster, the longer it will take for it to set. That gives you a little more time to go back and work your design. Refill your hawk with more plaster as needed.
8. Continue in sections until the ceiling is done. Using , go back over any areas that look uneven. Let the plaster dry for a couple of hours before removing the tape.
Bronze lighting and silvery faucets blend harmoniously in this bathroom.
As time passes, decorating rules change and mutate to accommodate new style preferences. Interior decorators freely mix different woods, periods and styles in the same room, and now professionals combine dissimilar metals in bathrooms. From the cabinet knobs to the , blending two or more metals can add oomph to the space.
Why the Mix Works
Uniform metals create a formal tone, but contrasting metals evoke an eclectic, casual or vintage vibe. The juxtaposition generates energy, visual interest and a timeless feel. Antique gold knobs can work with chrome fixtures just as oil-rubbed bronze shelves can serve as a foil for nickel lighting. If you're worried about pulling off this look, use no more than two different metals, and keep an even mix. You don't want one lonely bronze item in a room with 15 chrome elements.
Advantages
Using different materials frees you from design constraints. If your favorite faucet only comes in chrome, you can confidently work it into your design scheme. You can also save money. Chrome faucets usually cost less than their oil-rubbed bronze cousins; by reserving bronze for the inexpensive accessories, you'll get the best of both worlds. Too many silver-tone objects can make a room seem cold, but too many antique gold or bronze pieces can overwhelm the eye. Combining warm and cool metals brings balance to the space.
Disadvantages
Because personal preferences vary, a jumble of materials may not appeal to future buyers. Finding the perfect blend requires practice. Although satin nickel and chrome have a similar base color, using the two next to each other doesn't always work; the combination looks as though you tried to make an exact match but failed in your endeavor. For best results, mix materials that are very dissimilar, such as bronze with chrome or antique gold with chrome.
Find a Formula
By sticking with a systematic design plan, your mixture will blend seamlessly into the room. Use an even quantity of each metal throughout the bathroom. Try using one material for your accessories, mirrors and cabinet hardware and another material for the faucets and lighting. Create a consistent scheme; for example, don't use one bronze towel bar and one chrome towel bar. Instead, select the same metal for all towel bars, towel rings and toilet paper holders. Because of its bright shine, polished chrome attracts the eye, but the finish could steal some thunder from the other metals in the room.
Kitchen wall tiles can have a rich color and a detailed pattern.
The materials used for kitchen walls must stand up to steam, splashes of sauce and in some kitchens small amounts of smoke. According to Spaintiles.onfo, ceramic tiles are perfect for this use because they are resilient to heat, they are waterproof and they can be wiped clean. Kitchen wall tiles can be arranged in a variety of styles from modern minimalist style to traditional Delft style. Some artists even use tiles to create paintings that can be displayed in the kitchen without fear of them becoming warped.
Delft Tiles
Delft tiles have been used for more than 400 years as kitchen backdrops. Traditionally blue and white, with a little color added, there are many different patterns available in this style. The name comes from the Dutch town of Delft where these patterns were reproduced in the late 15th century from popular Chinese designs. These tiles are still being reproduced today using hand-painted images that are thermally sealed onto the ceramic tile. Use a repeating pattern of the same images or have each tile different to add a touch of traditionalism to your kitchen walls.
Murals
Add a tile mural to your kitchen space. Tiles used as canvases by mural artists can be cement, glass, ceramic and even stainless steel. According to Scrapbookscrapbook.com, many kitchen designs are the same but by adding a tile mural as a backsplash you are adding a focal point that shows your personality. Murals can be of patterns, landscapes or even portraits. Many artists have examples of their work displayed on their website to give you ideas.
Modern Minimalist
White tiles everywhere, with only a splash of color to match the features of the kitchen. The minimalist aesthetic is about only using a limited range of colors and not having too many designs and distractions. Minimalist tiles are available from most hardware stores and come in a variety of materials. Stainless steel tiles can be used to further the futuristic aesthetic. Consider using the stainless steel tiles as a splash guard at the cooker and white tiles for the main walls.
Calculating metal roofing in linear feet can be a useful skill when it comes time to cover that new shed or barn. Understanding the basic sizing for metal roofing depends on the amount of coverage you want to have for the building. All metal roofing can be cut to length. The width on the other hand is your choice. 24-inch-wide material will cover 24 inches but comes 28 inches wide for a two-inch overlap at both seam ends. 36-inch material is the same way, it too has a 2-inch overlap for a total width of 40 inches. Regardless of the width, the material coverage is what counts.
Instructions
1. Measure the overall width and length of the roof with the tape measure and record this with the pencil on the paper. In the following example we will be calculating a roof that is 20 feet wide and 25 feet long. It will be a simple shed roof. In other words there is only one slope to the single roof. Multiple roofs, such as a gable roof, can be calculated in the same manner. Just take each section at a time and then add the two values for a total linear footage.
2. Add 12 inches to the length measurement for an overhang of 6 inches at each end of the roof's top and bottom. Add another 6 inches to the overall width for an overhang of 3 inches for the sides of the roof. The final measurement for the calculation will be a length of 26 feet by 20 foot 6 inches wide.
3. Convert the width measurement to feet by dividing the 6 inches by 12 inches, since 12 inches are in one foot. This will give you .5 feet. The final width in feet is 20.5 feet. Multiply the width times the length to give you a square footage result. In this case, we will multiply 26 feet times 20.5 feet to give us the result of 533 square feet.
4. Calculate the total linear feet for the roof for using both the 24-inch wide material and the 36-inch wide material. 24 inches divided by 12 inches is equal to 2 feet and 36 inches divided by 12 inches is equal to 3 feet. First we will calculate the 2-foot wide material. Divide 533 square feet by 2 feet and the result is 266.5 linear feet. Next do the same with the 3-foot material and the result is 177.66 .
5. Calculate the number of pieces we will need in both the 2-foot wide material and the 3-foot wide metal roofing. Note that the linear lengths are quite different as in the 2 foot wide roofing we will need 266 feet and 6 inches of linear roofing. While in the 3-foot wide material we only need 177 feet and 8 inches of linear material. The overall length for this roof is 26 feet, so for the 2-foot wide material divide 266.5 linear feet by 26 feet and the result is 10.25 pieces or 11 pieces of metal roofing 2 foot wide by 26 feet long. The 3 material can be found in the same manner. Divide 177.66 linear feet by 26 feet and the answer is 6.83 pieces or 7 pieces of 3 foot wide by 26-foot long metal roofing material.
Tags: wide material, linear feet, metal roofing, feet feet, foot wide
A mirror and a bright white piece of paper reflect about the same amount of light: in excess of 90 percent of the light that strike them. The light reflecting from the paper and the mirror also obey the same Law of Reflection: the angle of reflection equals the angle of incidence. A white piece of paper makes a poor substitute for a mirror, however, if one is shaving or applying makeup.
Mirrors
The mirror exhibits "specular" reflection, meaning that it will form an image. Most of the mirrors in homes and businesses are plane mirrors. That is, their surface is flat, and the image they create is the same size as the object that is reflected. Other common mirrors are concave mirrors, like shaving mirrors, which magnify objects, and convex mirrors, like right-side mirrors on cars, in which "objects are closer than they appear."
Paper
The reflection from the paper, on the other hand, is "diffuse"; light striking it is reflected in many different directions because of microscopic irregularities in the surface.
Theories of Light
In the 17th century, Robert Hooke and Isaac Newton had an intense argument over the nature of light. Hooke said it was a wave, and Newton claimed it was a particle. Experiments at the time were inconclusive. Reflection was one of the properties of light which was examined, and it turned out that both the wave theory and the particle theory explained reflection satisfactorily. Certainly, if one considers light to be made up of small particles like billiard balls, the Law of Reflection can easily be demonstrated by how the ball bounces off a cushion.
Modern scientists believe that light is both a particle and a wave. The particle, called a photon, travels with an accompanying wave, and according to this model, sometimes the particle is more apparent, and sometimes the wave. A further enhancement to the theory, called quantum electrodynamics, supposes that light does not actually reflect in the sense that billiard balls do, but that instead, the photons of the incident light electrons in the mirror, and those electrons then give off the photons that are seen as "reflected" light. To continue the billiard ball analogy, it's as if the first ball disappears into the cushion, and a new one pops out. Another facet of the theory is that rather than obeying a "Law of Reflection," the photons actually travel in whatever path--from the object to the mirror to the observer--takes the least amount of time.
Tags: billiard balls, from paper, Interact With, Interact With Light, Mirrors Interact
By selecting and carefully placing effective lighting features within your modern home, you can draw attention to the beauty and modern style of your space. To ensure that your lighting selection accents your space and fits with your contemporary theme, take care to pick fixtures that mesh with this style. With these illuminating additions, you can finish your space.
Instructions
1. Use natural light. Instead of always relying upon energy-burning electricity, many modern home owners opt to green up their space and use natural light whenever possible. If still in the building stage, or looking to make structural modifications to your modern home, add in some large windows or skylights to capitalize off of the natural illumination that is often readily available.
2. Hang pendant lighting over counters or around the perimeter of the room. Pendant lights hang from the ceiling by thin cords and cast light over the areas that fall beneath them. Lights of this type are particularly popular in kitchens, where they can rest in a row over a seating area, creating a circle of light on each place setting.
3. Install contemporary sconce lighting in the hallways. Sconce lighting is often clean, crisp and contemporary. Select sconces that are shaped in clean, geometric shapes to place in your hallways. If you use stainless steel heavily, as is common in modern homes, echo his metallic hue in your sconce lighting. Avoid sconces that are flowery or overly ornate, as these will not fit well in your existing decorating plan.
4. Add minimalist lamps to your space. Select lamps with clean lines such as those with solid rectangular or pleasing oval bases. Top your lamps with drum lamp shades instead of the more common flared shades, as these drum shades better mimic the smooth lines of modern decor Avoid printed lamp shades or lamp shades with extras, such as fringe. Keep your lamp colors simple, seeking lamps in solid tones or metallic hues.
Tags: modern home, your space, lamp shades, your modern, your modern home
Whether you're decorating for a wedding, a shower, a birthday party or any other type of event to which you want to add a whimsical feel, use tulle as a decorative element. This light and airy fabric is easy to work with and add a delicate, feminine touch to a space. Drape tulle over a doorway to create an inviting entryway to the event.
Instructions
1. Measure the width of the doorway and double the measurement.
2. Attach a self-adhesive hook to the wall above the doorway. The hook should be attached about 6 inches above the door frame.
3. Locate the center of the tulle. Tie a decorative ribbon in a bow around the center of the material.
4. Hang the bow at the center point of the fabric on the hook above the doorway. The tulle should have two equal lengths hanging down from either side of the hook.
5. Tie a decorative ribbon in a bow around one of the sides of the material. Drape the material to the side of the doorway. Attach the material to the wall on the side of the doorway by inserting a pushpin on the backside of the bow.
6. Repeat step 5 with the opposite side of the fabric.
Water leaks can cause the wood in your attic to rot.
An odor of rotten wood that emanates from your ceiling most likely comes from moisture in your attic space. Attics are notorious for moisture leaks, due to the presence of plumbing vents, cable entrances and roof damage. Moisture that seeps into your attic can cause the roof to rot, as well as damage your insulation and ceiling materials. Common water entrances include poor seals around pipes, bent vent hoods, and damaged or missing covers. Prompt investigation and repair can help protect your home from additional damage.
Instructions
1. Climb up into your attic space to investigate the source of the rotted wood smell. Look above the area of the odor for obvious sources of rotting, such as damp insulation and wet or blackened wood. Remove any damp insulation and check the area around and beneath it for signs of water damage. Wait to treat any damaged wood or replace your insulation until after you correct the water leak.
2. Determine the source of the leak by examining the area along the underside of your roof for signs of water trails that run along the rafters or down the sides of pipes. Trace these water trails back to the source of the leak. Turn off the light to help expose any small openings that allow daylight to shine through to the attic.
3. Go up on your roof to repair the source of the leak as soon as you determine where the water is entering your attic. Remove and replace any damaged plumbing vent hoods or attic vent covers. Attach these to exposed roof fixtures according to the manufacturer's instructions.
4. Scrape away old, cracked caulking from around a leaky plumbing vent or chimney pipe. Replace the failed seal with an application of silicone sealant. Apply a liberal amount of the sealant and press it into the cracks with your fingertips. Allow adequate time for the seal to set and dry.
5. Check the seal by running a thin stream of water around the outside of the pipe. Check the inside of your attic again to make sure the silicone acts as a waterproof barrier. Apply additional silicone caulking around the opening, if necessary.
6. Test the integrity of the affected wood by scraping it with the tip of a screwdriver. If the wood crumbles or feels softer than the rest of the wood in your attic, contact a licensed home inspector to come check the damage and make recommendations for necessary repairs. If the wood looks and feels structurally sound, treat it with a mold and mildew remover labeled for use on wood.
Ceiling textures and patterns can be created with a variety of hand tools.
Create custom patterns and textures in a smooth ceiling to change the look and feel of your home. Special tools are available to help create these patterns and textures.
Texturing Comb
A texturing comb is a tool with fine, sometimes sharp, teeth that are dragged through a wet ceiling to create a pattern. The comb is often used to create smooth textured patterns in formal ceiling areas like the areas around a chandelier.
Roller
Rollers are an easy tool to use to create uniform texture patterns quickly. Rollers are available in a wide variety of styles that produce different patterns and textures. Rollers leave a subtle textured pattern on the ceiling by raising the Sheetrock mud as it moves along the surface. Faux finish rollers have designs that stamp a pattern to the ceiling and can be used with thick texture paint, Sheetrock mud or standard paint. To create a faux finish that mimics the look of texture, a smooth base coat is necessary with accent colors layered on top.
Trowel
professionals often use a painter's trowel to create custom in the ceiling. A trowel has a flat end that is pressed into or dragged through the Sheetrock mud or textured paint on the ceiling leaving the desired pattern.
Sponge
A sponge can be used to stamp a pattern into the ceiling. Any sponge can be used to create a ceiling pattern. Sponges are available with specific patterns on their surface and you can cut patterns from the sponge by hand.
Brush
A paint brush or textured drywall brush can be used to create several ceiling texture patterns and faux finishes. Use the brush in a stamping motion that pulls the Sheetrock mud from the ceiling leaving a raised pattern to create textured patterns. Textured patterns can also be produced by dragging a dry brush across the wet ceiling leaving a swirling pattern. Create a faux finish by painting a solid bottom coat and adding accent colors in a pattern on top.
Sprayer
Several sprayers are available to apply raised texture patterns to a ceiling. Sprayers are the most common tool used to create the popcorn ceiling texture. Aerosol cans are also available that spray a decorative textured pattern on the ceiling, but these cans do not cover large areas, so they are better for small repairs.
Most ceilings in offices and schools are composed of acoustic tile installed on a hanging grid. They hide plumbing, electrical wiring, networking cables, and heating and cooling duct work. In addition, they muffle noise in the room so that it doesn't escape into the room above. The disadvantages of acoustic tile ceilings are that the older types age poorly and give rooms a dated, institutional look. However, newer types are very attractive. Moreover, repairing damaged or waterlogged acoustic tile is quite easy and usually within a homeowner's budget.
Instructions
1. Remove the damaged tiles and any insulation. Be sure to wear protective eye wear and clothing because some of this material contains irritants. In addition, older tile may contain mold and other allergens. Dispose of them properly.
2. Examine the grid in which the old tiles were hanging. The framework is lightweight metal and may be bent from age, improper installation of tiles, or other factors.
3. Remove and replace all worn and damaged grid pieces. If the grid is very old, new parts may not fit properly, especially any clips that snap the grid together. Ensure that any replacement pieces will fit into the installed grid. Cutting the ends of new cross pieces at an angle will help them fit between the main runners more easily.
4. Install new tile into the grid. With the new designs and finishes available, this will give your room a modern facelift. You may have to cut tiles to make them fit near walls. In this case, use a very sharp utility knife to cut them so that the edges are not jagged. Measure exactly and cut carefully.
Ceiling beams provide an aura of rural charm and stability to a house. Many people who renovate older homes leave exposed ceiling beams that had been hidden for decades. If you have no beams in your house, you can make your own out of pine boards for both structural and decorative purposes. Decorative beams can be lightweight and hollow, but any beam intended for structural use needs to be solid.
Instructions
1. Cut the pine boards to a length several inches longer than the planned final length of your beam. If you have a choice, select the straightest and flattest boards that you have available.
2. Lay the first board on a flat surface, and cover its upper face with a zig-zag line of construction adhesive. Lay the second board on top of it so that their edges are even. Drive several 2-inch-long screws through the two boards to hold them together.
3. Spread construction adhesive on top of the second board, and lay a third board on top of it. Tack this third board onto the other two with several 2-inch-long screws.
4. Spread construction adhesive on top of the third board, and lay a fourth board on top of it. Drive 4-inch-long screws through all four boards to secure them permanently together.
5. Cut the assembly to the desired length with a circular saw.
Tags: construction adhesive, third board, , adhesive second, adhesive second board, construction adhesive second, screws through
Rest the insulation between the joists with the retarder paper facing down.
Tongue and groove (T&G) paneling is applied to both walls and ceilings for those who like the feeling of wood, rather than drywall on their walls. However, if no insulation has been installed between the ceiling joists beforehand, considerable heat loss through the ceiling can occur. Short of removing all the tongue and groove from the ceiling, the subfloor from the floor above can be removed, the insulation installed, and the subfloor then reinstalled.
Instructions
1. Remove all screws holding the subfloor to the joists in the room directly above the installed ceiling tongue and groove. If necessary, first remove the room's base board by hammering a flat-headed screwdriver between the wall and baseboard, and gently prying the board from the walls.
2. Push the screwdriver into one of the seams between two sections of subfloor, gently prying up the first section out of position. Remove all other subfloor sections, temporarily storing them in another room.
3. Measure the distance between the center of one bare joist to the center of the next: the distance should be 16 inches (though older houses may have a distance of 24 inches). Contact the local city building department for the correct R value ceiling/floor insulation in your area. The R value is the thickness of the insulation. Purchase enough rolls of insulation to cover the entire floor, making sure the width corresponds with the width of the your joists (insulation rolls are available to fit 16- and 24-inch-wide cavities).
4. Unroll the sections of insulation. Each section is 8 feet long. Starting at one end of the room, push the first section of insulation into one of the cavities between the joists, making sure that the paper vapor retarder attached to one side of the insulation is . The insulation will rest on the top of the tongue and groove. Install the insulation into all cavity spaces between the joists.
5. Reposition each section of subfloor on top of the joists, and screw the sections to the joists with one screw every 12 inches (use new 2-inch wood screws). Replace the baseboard by hammering two 1 5/8-inch finishing nails through the baseboard into each wall stud. Use a center punch to hammer each nail beneath the surface of the baseboard, and fill each hole with wood filler. Sand the filler if necessary when dry, and touch up the baseboard with paint.
Tags: , tongue groove, cavities between, facing down, first section
In the 1980s and earlier, acoustic popcorn ceilings were one of the most popular ceiling materials used in homes. They were cheap to install and required very little skill. They were also known for their ability to deaden sound transmission between upper and lower floors, so they were very popular in multistory homes. Today, these ceilings are not commonly installed in new homes, as better and not so highly visible insulation and sound blocking methods have been discovered. In addition, many people who have these ceilings in their homes are covering them up or removing them to update their home's appearance.
History
Up until World War II, ceilings in American homes were mainly composed of plaster, a compound made up of Portland cement, water and lime. It was eventually replaced by drywall, which reigned supreme until the 1960s. During the '60s, contractors began to use a product known as "popcorn ceilings." Made of chalk, clay and water, these ceilings were sprayed into place and left a cottage cheeselike finish. This trend was popular until the early 1980s when it began to die out.
Benefits
The main benefit of popcorn ceilings is their ability to block noise between floors of a house. They were very useful for bedrooms and family rooms to keep noise in and keep other rooms in the home quiet. In addition, they were very easy to install and required little training or knowledge. Popcorn ceilings by their very nature are slightly sloppy, and are great for covering up cracking or damaged drywall and plaster underneath.
Effects
While these ceilings became standard during the 1960s and '70s, today they make a home look dated, and many people are quick to replace them. They are also difficult to clean because of their texture. While washing them, you will find that bits of the ceiling will wash away, too. Because they are unattractive and hard to maintain, they tend to lower the value of the home. Before selling, many homeowners will remove these ceilings or cover them up with paneling or drywall.
Warning
One of the main worries about these ceilings is that, like many building products during the same time period, they contained asbestos. Asbestos were fibers used in tiles, adhesives and insulation that are now known to cause lung cancer and other respiratory illnesses when inhaled. If you have one of these ceilings in your home that was installed before 1980, it is critical that you have it tested for asbestos before attempting to remove it.
Misconceptions
When many people hear about the asbestos common in these ceilings, they feel that it's critical to remove them right away. While the style be unattractive to many, there are some that have popcorn ceilings in their homes and enjoy them. If you're one of them, don't worry that they may contain harmful asbestos. Asbestos is only harmful when it becomes airborne. This means you have to sand, cut or attempt to remove the popcorn ceiling before it can become harmful. If you have one in your home, even if it contains asbestos, there's no reason to remove it if you're happy with it.
Tags: these ceilings, ceilings their, many people, were very, asbestos Asbestos, ceilings their homes, ceilings were
Painting is a cheap and effective way to bring new life to a room. However, when unwanted paint comes in contact with your ceiling it causes the surface to appear old and dull. If possible, wipe the unwanted paint off the ceiling with a damp cloth before it has a chance to dry. Once the paint dries on the ceiling, removing it is a bit more difficult but not impossible.
Instructions
1. Open windows to vent the air. Paint removers typically produce fumes that can cause dizziness, headaches and fatigue. Put on safety goggles and chemical-resistant gloves.
2. Apply a few drops of a commercial paint remover to a rag. Blot and gently rub the paint for several seconds until it is no longer present on the ceiling. Continue with the remaining steps if the paint does not come off.
3. Dip a paintbrush in paint stripper and carefully brush the chemical over the remaining paint until thoroughly covered. Allow the to soften the paint for 20 to 30 minutes.
4. Scrape the paint gently off the ceiling with a clean putty knife. Take care not to damage the surface of the ceiling when scraping. Remove the debris from the paint scraper with paper towels.
5. Repeat steps 3 and 4 until you have removed the paint off the ceiling. Clean the ceiling with a mixture of 1 tablespoon of trisodium phosphate dissolved in 1 gallon of water.
Use lights to highlight the architecture of your venue.
One important aspect of decorating for weddings that is often overlooked is the ceiling. However, without addressing the ceiling, you will leave your venue looking unfinished. Fortunately, many options to create a ceiling treatment are available. Choose from treatments that take only a few hours to create or treatments that provide the extravagance you hope to achieve.
Draping
If your venue permits it, consider draping the ceiling with fabric. This treatment creates a dramatic touch to the venue that draws the eye upward. Staple or use tacks to add fabric to the ceiling. Place the tacks in a systematic manner after every few inches to achieve a cohesive look.
Canopy
Create a canopy over a focal point in your room, such as over the gift table, cake area or the bridal table. Use a piece of large white tubing. Cover the tubing in fabric. Hang the tubing from the fish string. Place a hook in the ceiling to support the canopy. Glue or staple fabric to the tubing until the fabric reaches the desired height. Add lights around the cake and inside the canopy for more sparkle.
Spiderweb
If your venue has chandeliers or you will be using columns, create a spiderweb effect. Attach tulle from the chandelier and stretch it across the room in eight directions. As an alternative, place the fabric in the middle of the room and stretch it to columns that surround the room.
Branches
After placing a tent over your reception area, add interest to the ceiling. Paint branches white or the wedding color and attach them to your tent by using fish string. This treatment works well for a rustic wedding or a winter-themed event. Hang glass or paper lanterns for an even more dramatic look.
Lights
A simple ceiling treatment is to attach Christmas lights. String the lights on top of the ceiling and around any columns. Also, attach lights to any interesting architectural details, such as an archway that comes close to the ceiling or a skylight. Use white or colored lights that match your decor. If you have tulle on the ceiling, also add lights inside the tulle.
Image
One way to achieve a ceiling treatment without damaging the building is to use a projector. Pick an image that you would like to project, such as your initials, lovebirds or something that correlates with your wedding. Position the projector so that it faces toward the ceiling. Another idea is to connect the projector with a computer to have a slideshow of the couple rotating as they have their first dance.
Chuppah
Create a secular chuppah to use at your wedding with PVC pipes, concrete stands, conduit and fabric. Build the chuppah structure and add the fabric top. Place the chuppah over the bridal table or use it at your ceremony site by the altar.
Tags: your venue, ceiling treatment, bridal table, ceiling with, fish string, This treatment, treatments that
Work platforms suspended from cranes are not recommended by OSHA.
Using cranes to lift personnel platforms is considered to be hazardous by the Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA). OSHA does allow the use of a work platform suspended from a crane if there is no safer way of reaching the designated work area. The guidelines and rules for work platforms that are suspended from cranes are strict and should be followed for the safety of the employee.
Crane
The crane must be set on a solid foundation and must be leveled before raising the work platform. The operator of the crane must always be at the controls while the platform is raised, even when the workers have reached the work area. The wire rope of the crane used to lift the work platform must be able to lift seven times the intended load, or a seven rating. The load of the work platform, workers and tools will not exceed half the capacity of the crane. This means that if the crane can lift two tons, then the combined weight of the workers, platform and tools cannot exceed 2,000 pounds.
Rigging
The work platform can be attached to the crane by use of rigging, but there are restrictions. When the work platform cannot be directly attached to the crane, a sling or wire rope bridle can be used. The sling and wire rope bridle must be attached to the work platform with closed or locked connections. The wire rope or sling must keep the work platform level at all times. The wire rope bridle or sling can not be used for any other lifting except for the work platform.
Platform Construction
The work platform must be designed by a qualified engineer and welded together by a certified welder. The capacity of the work platform should be five times the intended load and the work platform must be designed to prevent tipping. Each platform must have a guardrail with toe board and be enclosed from the center rail to the toe board to prevent tools from sliding off the platform. There must be a grab rail installed on the inside of the work platform for workers to hold onto when necessary. The access gate must only open to the inside of the work platform. The capacity of the work platform must be clearly marked and visible at all times.
Inspection and Testing
The work platform must have an inspection performed, as must the crane, to ensure everything is working properly. This inspection will look at all the components on the crane, rigging and work platform. Before lifting the workers, a test lift must be made to make sure that the work platform will not come in contact with any objects, the height can be reached safely and the anticipated weight is not hazardous. If the crane is moved, then an inspection and test must be performed at each location before the workers are lifted into position.
Tags: work platform, platform must, , work platform must, rope bridle, wire rope bridle
The bathroom has become more than just a pit stop. It is now a place to relax and detox from the stress of everyday life. The key to a Japanese style bathroom is to use natural elements, such as stone and wood, with earth tone colors to create a soothing and relaxing space. Whether you are starting from scratch or just want to add certain elements and finishes to your existing bathroom, the following tips will help to create the perfect Zen space.
Instructions
1. Choose a finish that will be the basis for the rest of the fixtures and finishes in the bathroom. This is usually the largest area of the room, such as floor or wall tile. Start by visiting floor and tiling experts and choosing two or three favorites. Take them home and see how well they will coordinate with the rest of your home. While the bathroom is separate and will have its own finishes, there should be a flow from the rest of the home to the new bathroom, especially if you are redoing an attached bathroom.
2. Look for the shower and tub surround tile. If you have space in your new bath, have separate tub and shower areas. This will increase your home's value and allow you to be creative with the fixtures, adding details such as a steam shower. You can use the same tile on the shower surround as on the floor, but choosing a contrasting tile will add visual interest and give the room that designer touch. Pull out a coordinating color from the floor tile and use that color to choose a wall tile. If your floor tile has a large pattern, choose a wall tile with less pattern or none at all. You can also try using a tile with multiple hues of the same color.
3. Select a pattern for the floor and wall tile. Square tile can be laid straight or on a diagonal; a straight pattern makes the room seem longer, while a diagonal or 45-degree pattern can make a room seem wider. Choose wisely, as once the tile is laid, changing it is another remodel project. Instead of using a towel mat, inset a cedar wood mat into the floor design outside of your shower. The cedar will give off a wonderful fragrance when wet.
4. Choose cabinetry and sink fixtures. The cabinetry should be simple without ornate or carved details. A Japanese bathroom would also use darker wood tones. As for the sink, vessel, undermount or even infinity sinks will be compatible with a Japanese style bathroom.
5. Pick general lighting for the entire bathroom, but include task lighting around the vanity and shower areas to allow ease of makeup application and shaving. Lighting fixtures within a shower surround should be waterproof fixtures, so make sure the recessed lighting fixtures are made for that application. As with the rest of the design, the lighting fixtures should be simple in design.
6. Select paint and other accessories. Again, go for soothing, earthy colors in warm tones. Accent the bathroom with rocks in vases with green leaves and thick, plush towels. Be careful, however, not to overdo it. The key to Japanese design will be the minimalist details.
Log homes are a powerful country architectural style.
Log homes feature natural logs and wood used for most surfaces inside the home, including the ceiling. The rustic charm of the log home centers with bringing nature and wood inside the house, blurring the line between the outdoors and the interior. This abundant use of wood has to be restrained to prevent the wood from overpowering the interior and making the house feel too dark, which is accomplished by varying the way the wood is finished.
Tongue and Groove
Clerestory windows and paneling boards simplify this ceiling.
Most log homes have ceilings that are at least partially beamed. The ceiling areas between the beams may be drywall, tongue and groove or other materials. In some instances the design of the home will allow a portion of the ceiling to be built like a clerestory with ceiling windows or skylights surrounded by beams, creating a simple design that can be supplemented by tongue and groove painted to echo the windows, making the ceiling feel light and open.
Paneling Effect
Ceiling layout can enhance the dramatic lines of the vaulted roof.
One way to surface a large beamed ceiling is by using boards at 90 degrees to the beams. When a roof is unusual, this can create a lot of visual interest merely through the lines the boards make. If the ceiling is painted or stained to match the beams, the ceiling becomes less visually busy and will tend to look like a whole piece, which can be improved by using lighter stains or washes on the wood to create a weathered look or aged appearance. The softness of aging relaxes the appearance of the wood.
Painted Ceilings
Painted ceilings create a European lodge feeling on a log home ceiling.
To highlight unusual ceiling architecture and beams, you can paint the ceiling between your exposed beams a light color and then detail out the panels using a motif that suits the architecture of your log cabin and the decor of the home. Many lodge-style log homes have Swiss or Swedish roots. The tradition of painting the wood with highly decorative flowers or motifs is well established. Usually the beams are also painted but in a darker color so that they will continue to stand out.
Sealing
Sealed wood finishes are common for log home ceilings.
The most common treatment for a log home ceiling is to simply seal the wood using its natural color. The wood is treated to prevent bug intrusion and moisture problems and to enhance the natural beauty of the wood. Usually the ceiling has to be resealed every 10 years or so. This type of treatment can make the rooms feel smaller and dark. Balancing the wood with light furniture and plenty of light fixtures and lamps is a good idea.
Tags: beamed ceiling, home ceiling, homes have, wood with
Choose interesting mirrors for your floor-to-ceiling mirror display.
Decorating your home with floor-to-ceiling mirrors does more than just provide your walls with an interesting-looking visual display. Mirrors make a room look larger, as well as reflecting the light that's already in the room, making the room brighter. There are a number of ways to incorporate mirrors into your decorating scheme besides simply hanging them on the wall. The position of these mirrors works together with the mirrors themselves to create a striking yet unified look.
Instructions
1. Create a focal wall; this becomes the backdrop for your mirror gallery. Choose a wall that stands out, such as the wall that faces your couch. Paint it a vibrant color such as red or bamboo green.
2. Hang your gallery of mirrors on the focal wall. Select mirrors that have frames of different shapes, and arrange them so that they hang from the top of your wall right down to the floor. Mix in candle sconces throughout the display; this creates more light and the mirrors reflect the candlelight.
3. Add mirrored tiles to the walls in the entryway of the house. Choose the kind that have the peel-and-stick adhesive, and hang them so that they cover the whole wall. Position a table with a lamp on the wall opposite the mirrored wall. These provide interesting visuals for the mirrors to reflect.
4. Decorate your fireplace with mirrors. Hang an assortment of mirrors above the mantel, stretching your display to the ceiling. Don't forget the mouth of fireplace in your decorating efforts; lay a mirror on the floor of your fireplace. Arrange candles of different shapes and heights on the mirror. Decorate any built-in bookshelves next to the fireplace with framed mirror displays.
5. Place a mirror on the bottom shelf of a glass-topped coffee table. Position the table, as well as a couch and chairs, in front of the fireplace.
6. Change up the visuals of the mirrors. For example, instead of hanging a long, rectangular-shaped mirror in a vertical fashion, hang several similar mirrors horizontally up the wall.
Tags: different shapes, fireplace with, focal wall, mirrors reflect, Position table, that have
A log cabin theme can give your bathroom an outdoorsy touch.
Whether you own a log cabin and wish to decorate the bathroom or simply would like to bring an outdoorsy feeling to your city home, log cabin bathroom styles can help you achieve the natural look and feeling desired in your bathroom. By creating a log cabin bathroom style in your home, you can make the bathroom a place where you can luxuriate in a long bath while enjoying the sensation of being in the great outdoors.
Log Theme
The simplest way to decorate your bathroom in a log cabin style is to focus on the logs--particularly if you are decorating a bathroom in a real log cabin featuring exposed wood. Highlight the wood by leaving as much of the wall exposed as possible. Install a shower curtain with pictures or drawings of trees or bark on it to create a woodsy ambiance while you are in the shower or bath. Adding plants that thrive in humidity, such as ferns or small trees (try bonsai trees for an exotic and low-maintenance accent), can be the perfect finishing touch to your log-themed bathroom.
Animal Theme
Celebrate the great outdoors in your bathroom by decorating with animal images and accessories, particularly using animal species found in the woods. Search department stores and home decor shops for shower curtains featuring animals such as birds, deer or squirrels, as well as bathmats in the shape of animals (fish are the most common). Framed pictures of pastoral woods scenes featuring animals in their natural habitat can finish the theme.
Eclectic Theme
By combining elements of the two above styles and playing with the addition of different elements, you can create an entirely unique and personalized bathroom. For example, you might consider mounting a stuffed animal head (fake, if you do not hunt) on an empty wall, or featuring antique and unloaded rifles as decoration. Depending on your interests and the uses of your log cabin, you can create a bathroom that captures a rustic look and blends beautifully with the rest of .
Tags: your bathroom, , , great outdoors, your home
Halloween decorations aren't limited to the outdoors. They're available for just about every room of the house, including bathrooms. Bathroom decorations for Halloween are often whimsical. They're easy to find and are not difficult to integrate into your decor.
Decorative Soaps
Decorative soaps are functional and look great in Halloween-themed bathrooms. Halloween soaps are usually translucent and shaped, but some opaque soaps contain glitter and embedded toys and spider rings. If you're having a Halloween party, decorative soaps are the perfect touch to add to your guest bathroom.
Towels
Halloween towels typically have embroidered motifs with images of ghosts, candies and candy corn, witches and jack-o'-lanterns. These are easy to find in craft, discount and , usually in the holiday section. You can also make your own Halloween towels by getting towels from a craft or hobby supply store in black, white, orange or purple and ironing themed appliques onto them.
Rugs and Bathmats
Although most Halloween rugs are made to be used in other areas of the home or outdoors, you can put them in the bathroom as well. Halloween-themed rugs that are meant as doormats are especially great as bathmats because they absorb water well and don't hold odors.
Be sure that the backing of the rug will not slide so that it doesn't create a hazard if your bathroom floor gets wet.
Shower Curtain Rings
Instead of trying to find a Halloween shower curtain, switch your shower curtain rings. Not only is this easier, but Halloween-themed shower curtain rings are readily available.
Common Halloween shower curtain rings include designs that are embellished with miniature candy corns, jack-o'-lanterns and spider webs.
Accessories
The easiest way to give your bathroom a Halloween makeover is to use themed accessories. You can find Halloween-themed bathroom accessories such as toothbrush holders, tumblers, soap and lotion dispensers and tissue box covers at home decor, discount and department stores.
You can save money by just choosing one accessory--a little bit goes a long way when decorating for Halloween.
Tags: shower curtain, curtain rings, department stores, discount department, discount department stores, easy find, Halloween Bathroom
Antique tin ceiling tiles add an opulent, old-fashioned look to any ceiling. New tin tiles may come looking like they're much older than they are -- a detail that usually comes at a price. You can paint your own tin ceiling tiles to give them that antique look, even if you don't have experience with antiquing. If you're installing new tin tile, paint it before installing it; otherwise, this process can be done on installed ceiling tile.
Instructions
1. Clean the tiles using a sponge dampened with dish soap and water. Dry with paper towels or a microfiber cloth.
2. Apply a bonding primer to the tin tile. If your will be white or a light color, use white primer; if your base will be dark, use a dark-colored primer. Allow the primer to dry overnight, or as the manufacturer directs.
3. Paint the tin ceiling tile in the base color. Allow the tiles to dry overnight.
4. Pour metallic paint into a roller pan. Dip a foam roller into the paint and roll off the excess. Lightly roll the metallic paint on the tile so that it's applied to the raised part of the design only, giving it the look of metal showing through.
There are two ways of wiring a lighting circuit. The first way is to bring the "Homerun Cable," the cable bringing power from the service panel/circuit breaker panel into the ceiling lighting outlet box. The second way is to bring the Homerun Cable into the device box. Which approach an electrician chooses depends on where the breaker panel is located. If the service panel is closer to the switch's location, then he will bring the power to the switch and run a switch leg up to the ceiling lighting outlet box.
Instructions
1. Buy a wiring permit from the local building permits department before beginning this project.
2. Mount the device box for the switch using the box's captured nails. Position the box against the side of the stud so that the top of the box will be 46 inches above the finished floor line and the front of the box will be flush with the finished wall. Most boxes have a positioning guide on the side of the box to make positioning easier.
3. Mount the ceiling lighting outlet box so that the opening will be flush with the finished ceiling.
4. Route a cable from the service panel to the switch's device box. Secure the cable to the side of rafters and studs at 4-foot intervals with cable staples. Be careful when driving the staples that you don't damage the cable with the hammer. Position the cable so that it's at least 1¼ inches from the front edge of the stud or rafter. When passing a cable through a framing member, drill a 5/8-inch hole using the drill/driver and a 5/8-inch spade bit so that the front edge of the hole is at 1¼ inches from the nearest edge of the framing member.
5. Route a cable from the switch's device box to the ceiling lighting outlet box, installing it and securing it as you did in Step 3.
6. Insert the cable ends into the device box and lighting outlet box so that they project 6 to 8 inches from the box.
7. Remove the outer jacket using the razor knife, leaving ¼ inch of the jacket intact where the cables enter the boxes. Use caution here to not damage the insulation on the individual conductors inside the jacket.
8. Remove 1 inch of insulation from the free ends of all the conductors using the wire strippers.
9. Splice the two white conductors together in the switch's device box. Place the two stripped ends side by side and then twist them together in a clockwise direction using the Lineman's pliers. Twist a wire nut tightly down on the twisted splice to complete the splice before pushing it into the box as far as it will go.
10. Make loops in the bare ends of the black wires and place them around the brass-colored screws on the switch. Tighten these screws down snugly but don't overtighten them.
11. Make a three-way pigtail splice using a short piece of bare copper wire with the two bare-copper grounding conductors and then connect the free end of the pigtail to the dark green grounding screw on the switch.
12. Wrap the switch's terminals with tape and then install the switch in the device box.
13. Connect and install the lighting fixture. Splice the black, white and bare fixture wires to the corresponding circuit conductors using wire nuts.
14. Remove the cover to the service panel. Remove one of the 3/8-inch knockouts from the side of the panel as close as possible to where you will be installing the new circuit breaker. Insert the cable connector, securing it in place with its lock nut.
15. Install the circuit breaker.
16. Insert the cable into the panel. Remove the outer jacket and connect the black wire to the new circuit breaker. Connect the white wire to the panel's neutral bar and the bare grounding wire to the panel's ground bar.
17.Close up the panel.
Tags: lighting outlet, ceiling lighting, ceiling lighting outlet, circuit breaker, service panel, switch device, inches from
If you live in an apartment, you might want to soundproof your ceiling so that you do not irritate your neighbors. Or maybe your furnace in the basement makes a lot of noise and your only option is soundproofing the ceiling. Ceilings are harder to soundproof because flooring materials such as tile, hardwood and linoleum do not effectively insulate against sound, and footfall can create enough noise to overwhelm most soundproofing measures.
Dampening Compounds
The cheapest way to soundproof a ceiling is to add another layer of drywall. Place a layer of water-based dampening compounds in between two layers of drywall: the original drywall on the ceiling and a new layer of drywall. This will muffle out much of the noise, though some may still come through. If you want even more soundproofing, you can add of dampening compounds and another layer of drywall.
Mass-Loaded Vinyl Barriers
Some manufacturers sell mass-loaded vinyl barriers that you can easily install on the ceiling of your apartment to block out noise above. These mass-loaded vinyl barriers absorb the sounds passing through them instead of entering your apartment. This barrier can block 85 to 90 percent of all airborne sounds, especially voices and bass music. The barrier is made of black vinyl, so you might want to add drywall, paneling or a suspended ceiling to cover up the vinyl. As an added bonus, if the ceiling catches on fire, the vinyl burns out in 10 seconds, increasing the apartment's fire safety. Those who do not have heavy sound problems might prefer the a lighter-weight, mass-loaded vinyl material.
Insulation
If you own the ceiling, you can add insulation on top of the drywall that's designed to block noise. Before adding the soundproofing material, wear clothing that leaves little skin exposed, since the insulation contains fiberglass and can lead to skin irritation. Strip the drywall out until you can see the wood struts throughout the ceiling. Pack the insulation all throughout the ceiling, leaving few gaps. Use acoustical caulk to seal any cracks you find in the ceiling that can let sounds through. Then, place a layer of foam tiles under the insulation. You can then create a floating ceiling by using isolation chips that separate the drywall slightly from the insulation. Do not leave any gaps anywhere throughout this process because any gaps can lead to sound leaking through the ceiling. Also, make sure that you do not compress the insulation, since compressed insulation conducts vibrations very easily.
Concrete Soundproofing
Soundproofing a concrete ceiling can be even more challenging given that the concrete structure has a lot of mass to conduct vibrations. You will need to construct an air cavity underneath the concrete, fill the air cavity with foam insulation and add two layers of drywall with a layer of sound dampening compounds in between.
Tags: another layer, , layer drywall, , block noise
Build a bathroom that has a pleasant atmosphere you will enjoy every day.
A bathroom can look well-designed with simple fixtures and appropriate colors. Good placement of fixtures and simple cabinetry will provide a neat look to a small or large bathroom. Plan out every detail before purchasing anything, however. Draw the new room to make sure there is ample space to move about and sufficient storage room to prevent clutter. Give a lot of thought to special features you desire in the bathroom, so that you will find the room pleasing for years to come.
Instructions
1. Sketch dimensions of the room. Draw various placement combinations of fixtures. Use cutouts on graph paper as one option to review various placements. Choose the appropriate wall for the sink vanity area as the focal-point wall. Consider windows, doors and vents in planning where to place fixtures, because fixtures must fit around these fixed objects.
2. Place the tub along a solid wall with no window. Use this placement for privacy and adding towel racks to the wall near the tub. Don't put the tub on a wall with a large window, unless the window is high on the wall or includes frosted glass for privacy.
3. Install a shower unit in a corner of the room. Select space to the left or right of the hallway door, but don't block the view of the sink vanity from the bath's main entrance. Use a shower-tub unit to save floor space, if separate units will crowd the room. Buy a corner glass shower with a curved glass front as another space-saving option.
4. Place the toilet behind a wall. Build a waist-high wall to separate the commode from the vanity, for example. Build a floor-to-ceiling wall to hide the commode if the room is large. Don't plan the toilet to stand out in any way, so create surrounding walls and woodwork to blend with the color of the toilet.
5. Purchase appropriate shelving and storage cabinets. Create the bathroom to look as clutter-free as possible. Install a larger closet for the room, if space is available, to hold towels, toiletries and supplies. Display only art objects or items that have visual appeal on shelving or on top of cabinets. Use neutral or pale-colored boxes or baskets to hide small items on open shelving.
Tags: bathroom look, bathroom that, sink vanity, wall with
A damaged, broken, or cracked ceiling joist can cause a ceiling to sag and should be repaired as soon as possible. If the problem worsens, it can cause the ceiling or upper floor to sag, crack the drywall covering on the ceiling and compromise the structural integrity of your home. Repair and reinforce a ceiling joist by affixing a new plank to the side of the joist. This process is referred to as "sistering."
Instructions
1. Cut a plank to fit the length of the joist run. Use a plank that is the same size as the joists. Joists are typically 2 by 6 inches or 2 by 4 inches.
2. Drill pilot holes in the plank for screwing it to the joist. Drill a pilot hole every 12 to 14 inches.
3. Apply construction adhesive to the side of the joist, affix the plank, and tack it in place by nailing just one nail at each end.
4. Realign the joist if needed. If there is slight sagging, push up on the joist by wedging in a vertical board between the joist and the floor beneath. If your ceiling has drywall, place a horizontal scrap of wood between the top of the vertical board and the ceiling to serve as a buffer and to prevent a drywall puncture. A hydraulic jack may be necessary for extreme sagging. In this case, the entire drywall covering has probably already been damaged and will need to be replaced.
5. Screw the plank to the joist. For extra strength, cross-brace boards can also be positioned between the plank and the nearest joist. Attach the cross-brace board by toe nailing (driving screws in at an angle) it to the joists.
Recessed light fixtures are great for providing ambient overhead lighting in bathrooms. Wiring a bathroom fixture (or fixtures) is the same as in any other interior room. In a typical installation, the fixture is connected to a standard single-pole wall switch, with the fixture at the end of the cable run. The switch is connected to a standard (15-amp, 120-volt) household lighting receptacle circuit to provide power to the fixture. You can wire multiple fixtures to the same switch by branching off from each successive fixture with circuit cable.
Instructions
1. Turn off the power to the circuit cable that feeds the electrical box for the wall switch at the home's service panel (breaker box).
2. Cut the ceiling hole for the fixture and mount the fixture frame (with junction box), as directed by the manufacturer. Note: Remodel-type fixtures do not include a mounting frame; you install the entire fixture as a unit after making the wiring connections to the fixture body.
3. Install 14-gauge, 2-wire, non-metallic cable (14/2 NM) between the fixture junction box and the electrical box for the . Anchor the cable with cable staples within 12 inches of the boxes and every 4 1/2 feet along the run (or as required by the local building code). If you're installing multiple fixtures, also run cable from the first fixture in the series to the next, and so on.
4. Connect the switch to the circuit cable from the power source and to the new fixture cable, following the switch manufacturer's wiring diagram. Install the switch in the electrical box, then install the switch cover plate.
5. Connect the wires from the fixture cable to the wire leads on the fixture canister, as directed by the manufacturer. Many fixtures have wire leads that run through metal sheathing, which is secured to the fixture's junction box before the wiring connections are made. With remodel-type fixtures, the cable wires may be connected directly to the fixture body. Compete the connections for any remaining fixtures, as applicable.
6. Install the fixture into its mounting frame (or insert a remodel fixture into the ceiling, as directed). Turn on the power to the power-source circuit. Test the fixture at the wall switch.