Installing lighting into a suspended ceiling is simple if you use specialized 2-by-4-foot fixtures. These fixtures take the place of a , and by exactly matching the grid, they don't require any modifications to the grid or ceiling tiles. Since the fixtures weigh considerably more than does a standard ceiling tile, they must be self-supported to the structure above to prevent damage to the ceiling grid or falling out of the ceiling and causing injury.
Instructions
1. Turn the power off to the circuit that will be feeding the lights. The easiest way to do this is to turn the associated breaker in the circuit breaker panel to the "Off" position.
2. Hang four ceiling wires down from the ceiling structure -- one at each corner of where the light fixture will sit. The wires should extend about 6 inches below the bottom of the ceiling grid.
3. Tilt the light fixture at a slight angle, lift it up through the ceiling grid and slowly lower it into the grid. Maintain slight pressure on the bottom of the light so the ceiling grid does not bear its full weight.
4. Start at one corner of the light fixture and bend that corresponding corner's ceiling wire up and through the eyelet on the . Pull tight and twist the wire around itself. Repeat on the other three corners. The light fixture should be entirely supported by the ceiling wires and will barely rest on the ceiling grid.
5. Insert the wire whip from the light fixture into the nearby electrical box that serves the lighting circuit. Tighten the connector nut to hold the whip in place.
6. Twist the black wires together, the white wires together and the ground . Secure each grouping of wires with a wire nut. Screw the cover back on to the electrical box.
7. Follow the above process for each additional ceiling light. Once complete, restore power to the lighting circuit and verify that the light fixtures work properly.
A dropped ceiling, also called a drop ceiling or suspended ceiling, is commonly found in public buildings. The ceiling is non-structural and consists of tiles attached in place by a grid pattern that hangs from the structural ceiling underneath. Dropped ceilings hide objects like electrical wiring and pipes. Hanging a picture from the dropped ceiling creates a distinctive suspended effect.
Instructions
1. Measure the length from the dropped ceiling grid to the height from which you want the picture to hang. Add 6 inches to this number and cut two pieces of airplane wire of that length.
2. Stand on a ladder as someone spots you for safety. Gently push the ceiling tile up and thread one of the wires over a piece of the ceiling grid. Fold the top 3 inches of the wire over and secure it to the other section of wire with a wire rope clip. Repeat the process with the other piece of wire. Space the two wires apart at the width of your picture frame.
3. Screw two eye hooks on opposite sides of your picture frame. Thread one hanging wire through each eye hook. Fold 3 inches over and secure into place with a rope clip to complete the hanging process.
Tags: , your picture frame, ceiling grid, Dropped ceilings, Fold inches, from dropped ceiling
The play is the thing, but the lights control the way in which the audience receives all the visual information of a theater piece. Lighting sets the tone for scenes and creates visual illusions that draw the audience into the world of the play. Lighting technology has advanced tremendously since the age of Shakespeare and candle-lit chandeliers, especially during the digital age. Computer technology allows lighting designers to design entire shows on a computer.
History
From the days of Shakespeare to the early 19th century, theaters had three options for lighting: the sun, fire and rudimentary oil lamps. Gas lighting was developed in the first years of the 19th century, and was implemented in theaters around 1815. Gaslight could be colored, and designed to meet the needs of a performance, thus giving rise to the notion of light design specific to each show. Gaslight allowed for limelight, which was the precursors to the spotlight, developed in 1825. Electricity appeared in the 1840s, though wasn't refined for theatrical use until the late 19th century. Into the 20th century, electric light became the norm of theatrical lighting, and has since developed radically.
The Company of Sir Henry Irving
The theater company of Sir Henry Irving, a British stage actor, is largely credited with inventing the notion of lighting technology in theater. The theater company Irving ran out of the Lyceum Theater in London was renowned for its technical virtuosity as much as it was known for the sub par literary quality of its scripts. The company was geared toward entertainment theater, and as such used technical wizardry to transport audiences, pioneering such lighting technology as dimmers, mood lighting, scene specific design and colored lights. The company even toured the United States with its own lighting rig, something unheard of at the time.
Significance
Theater lights are used to enhance the emotions and ambiance of theatrical pieces using color, brightness and shadows. The interplay of light and shadow, known as chiaroscuro, is used to enhance tension and focus the attention of the audience on certain elements of a set. Lights of certain colors, such as blue and red, can be used to heighten emotional response, while using unnatural light colors such as red can create surreal effects. In 2010, colored lights are created with a simple technology known as gels, which are filters placed over the lights to change their colors.
The Evolution of Dimmers
Dimmers are an important part of lighting technology. A dimmer is any apparatus that allows the levels of lights to be changed. Dimmers were a development of the gaslight era, when it was discovered that a valve could be used to change the rate gas flow to a light, thus changing its brightness. In the electrical era, dimmers have undergone a number of changes. In their most primitive form, electrical dimmers were beakers filled with salt water and two metal contacts. Through the 20th century, dimmers evolved from wall switches to large and complicated systems of hardware and software. In the digital age, dimmers can be controlled by computers or from a lighting desk, which is a large mixing board through which all of a theater's lights are routed and with which those lights can be controlled.
Digital Age
Design software is the major innovation in theater lighting technology of the digital age, and opens a new world of possibilities for designers. Software programs allow lighting designers to create scene-by-scene designs for entire shows on a computer, test them both on stage and in digital environments a number of times, and run them live through a pre-programmed sequence by directly connecting the computer to the lights through either Ethernet or DMX systems. Design software also permits designers to create a working list of all the lights, gels, cables, and other equipment required for any given show.
Tags: 19th century, lighting technology, 20th century, colored lights, colors such, Design software, designers create
Safety is important when replacing a ceiling lamp.
Many ceiling lamps hang from the ceiling from a rod or a chain. You can replace a ceiling lamp in a simple process that is akin to replacing a ceiling fan, using a few common tools. Often, the hardest part is handling the weight and awkward size of the fixture. If your ceiling lamp is large, with multiple sockets and decorative arms, you may need help handling it safely.
Instructions
1. Go to the circuit breaker and turn off the power for the circuit that the ceiling lamp you wish to replace is on. Turn the wall switch for the ceiling light on and off to ensure that the proper breaker switch is turned off.
2. Climb the ladder to the ceiling lamp, bringing the wrench, screwdriver and circuit tester with you. Put on your rubber gloves.
3. Use the wrench to unscrew the canopy nut, which holds the canopy in place. The canopy covers the hardware mounting the light to the ceiling. Some ceiling lamps have a series of lenses or shades that cover the hardware, rather than a canopy. In this case, remove the locking cap at the bottom of the down rod to slide the lamp lenses or shades off the rod until you have access to the mounting hardware.
4. Note the wires connecting the circuit of the ceiling lamp to the circuit from the outlet box behind the crossbar. There should be five or six wires. Use your circuit tester on the black or red wire to ensure that there is no electrical current in the wires. The circuit tester should read zero.
5. Unscrew the wire nuts from the three pairs of connections. If the green wire or ground wire from the outlet box is connected to a green screw on the cross bar, there will be only two pairs of wires to disconnect. Use the screwdriver to loosen the screw and unwind the green wire from the screw. Pull apart the leads of the black and white pairs of wires as well. Press these wires out of the way.
6. Ask a friend to hold the ceiling lamp while you unscrew the cross bar from the ceiling. Use the Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the cross bar. Bring the ceiling lamp to the floor when the cross bar is released.
7. Use the wrench to loosen the nut and collar from the bolt threaded through the cross bar. The bolt may be attached to a chain which suspends the ceiling lamp, or it may be like a long down rod. In either case, pull it off the cross bar when the nuts are loosened and set it aside.
8. Attach the replacement ceiling lamp to the cross bar. Insert the threaded bar through the cross bar in the same hole that the previous bolt was threaded, and tighten it to the cross bar using the nut and collar.
9. Climb the ladder again while you and your friend hold the ceiling lamp. Hold the cross bar against the holes in the electrical box and screw in the mounting screws so that the cross bar is attached to the outlet box.
10. Reconnect the wires in the same configuration in which you disconnected them, and replace the wire nuts. Push the wiring behind the crossbar into the electrical box. Before tightening the canopy to the ceiling to hide the mounting hardware, turn the power at the breaker on and check that the ceiling lamp works. If it doesn't, turn off the power and check the wiring. Otherwise, tighten the canopy to the ceiling with your wrench.
If you're building a home, or even if you're remodeling one, one of the easiest and best things you can do to make it look more 'high-end' without spending a fortune is to put up crown molding. There are different ways to address doing that and you'll need to decide whether you feel comfortable doing it or whether you want to hire someone. You'll also have to consider what type of material you want to use for your crown molding, because there are several different options.
Types
Most people think of using wood for crown molding, and it's the most common choice. However, plastic is also used, as are plaster and foam. Plastic and foam are newer options, and they are the most popular with do-it-yourself homeowners who want to put crown molding in their homes but aren't interested in the cost of paying someone else to do it. Foam and plastic crown molding also have lower materials cost than wood or decorated plaster. Some of the plastic and foam options are also 'peel and stick,' which makes it very easy to put up great-looking crown molding when compared to wood or plaster choices.
Other options for crown molding materials include vinyl, aluminum, polyurethane, and MDF, or medium-density fiberboard, which is comprised of wood fibers and synthetic resin.
There are also many different types of crown molding when it comes to the decorative styles that it comes in. These include the egg and dart, the ogee, cove molding, and the dentil crown, as well as the rosevine crown. Listing them all is next to impossible, but it's worth taking the time to look at different molding options so that you can find something that goes with your house and lifestyle. Getting the wrong crown molding material or the wrong crown molding style can actually detract from the look of your home.
Function
The different types of crown molding all have the same basic function, which is to make the room look better. They add class and sophistication to a home if they are done correctly, and they are generally looked for by a lot of people when buying a home, because they are believed to be a mark of quality and higher-end construction. Some of them are used for another function, as well, which is to hide wires for speakers, television sets, and other components that need to be run along the ceiling to reach a remote location. Satellite speakers can be placed anywhere in a room and the wires run under the crown molding back to the television, for example, making them popular with those who enjoy surround sound or home theaters.
Size
One of the best things about crown molding is that there are not only different materials that they are made of but also different looks, so you can find something that really goes along with your house and decor. Crown molding can be a thin, one-inch strip that goes along the top of the wall and meets the ceiling, or it can be up to two or three inches wide. There are also nearly unlimited choices for styles and designs offered when it comes to crown molding. It is usually sold in sticks six or eight feet long, and it can be cut on the ends and fitted together in the corners or corner blocks can be used to avoid inaccurate cuts that will leave the crown molding looking sloppy. Crown molding is sold this way no matter what it's made of, and picking the right size for your room and decorating style will help your crown molding look its best.
Considerations
What type--and what size--of crown molding you choose to use will depend on several factors. Price is certainly one of them, because plastic and foam molding are the cheapest of the options. Plaster and wood are the most expensive. Naturally, foam crown molding cannot be expected to look the same as a high-quality wood molding, but most people don't get up that close to it. If you have high ceilings, plastic or foam might work just fine, but if your crown molding is going to be much easier to inspect, it might be better to choose a type that's higher quality, so that your home looks good and retains its value--especially if you're planning on selling soon. Aluminum crown molding provides a very unique look, and so does vinyl, while polyurethane is a type of plastic molding and MDF gives a look similar to harder, solid wood.
Warning
Installing crown molding of any type can be dangerous, because a ladder is required. You don't want to fall and get injured, and you don't want to damage the walls or ceilings of your home, either. You can avoid those problems by letting professionals install the crown molding for you. If you really want to do it yourself, read all instructions very carefully, make sure you understand what you're doing, and don't rush the job. Take your time to do it right and to avoid injury. Having someone help you would also be preferable, because it's easier than trying to do it alone.
Tags: crown molding, crown molding, crown molding, your crown, your crown molding, your home
Most don't have heavy sheetrock walls; instead they have paneling nailed directly to the wall studs. Mobile home paneling is typically a composite wood product or vinyl panels and laminated to simulate wood grain or wallpaper. Over time, paneling can get scratched and dingy. Painting it can make a dramatic difference to the interior of your home. As long as you prepare and prime the walls properly, they'll be durable and washable.
Instructions
1. Scrub the paneling clean to remove dirt, wax and surface oil. Use grease-cutting detergent, especially if you think the paneling has been buffed with furniture oil. Rinse it and allow it to dry.
2. Sand the paneling lightly to scuff and roughen the surface. Skip this step if it's laminated with fabric. Wipe off the dust.
3. Repair loose paneling. The paneling seams in mobile homes are usually covered by thin strips of wood or vinyl, attached with nails. Replace any that are broken--home improvement stores should carry replacement strips--and hammer down loose nails.
4. Prepare the area. Move furniture away from the wall. Use blue painter's tape to tape ceilings and adjacent surfaces and put drop cloths down to protect the floor.
5. Prime the oil- or water-based bonding primer. If the walls were very shiny and smooth, use a fast-drying oil- or shellac-based primer for the best adhesion.
6. Caulk gaps between the paneling and trim. If the adjacent trim isn't going to be painted, use paintable clear silicone caulking. When it dries, it will be invisible on the non-painted surfaces. Use spackle to fill dents or nail holes.
7. Paint the two coats of water-based (latex) paint. Cut in first with a brush, then roll the walls. Doing the brush-work after rolling tends to leave visible brush marks.
8. Wait about eight hours for the paint to dry before removing the masking tape and moving the furniture back into place. Paint takes about 30 days to completely cure, so avoid washing or wiping the walls for a month.
Installing vinyl ceiling panels on vertical rafters requires starting at the top and working down.
Vinyl ceiling panels are usually installed on horizontal rafters. Installing vinyl ceiling panels on vertical rafters requires starting at the top and working down. A straight and level starter strip that is securely nailed in place is a must. Rafters or furring strips used for nail locations should be spaced no further apart than 16 inches.
Instructions
1. Nail in place the vinyl J-channel trim on both sides and the bottom of the ceiling area. Placing J-channel trim along the top is an option. It is used on the top for appearance only.
2. Place a horizontal, level chalk line at the location of the starter strip across the top of the ceiling area. Nail the starter strip next to the line and make sure the line is level.
3. Slide, pull and snap the ceiling panels into the groove of the starter strip and nail in place. Each panel's edge also snaps into the matching groove of the preceding panel. Do not nail each panel tight. Leave the nail head sticking out at least 1/8-inch above the panel. Each panel should easily slide from side to side to allow for expansion and contraction as the temperature changes. Leave ¼-inch space on both sides between the end of the panels and the J-channel for the same reason.
4. Use painted aluminum nails to attach the last ceiling panel at the bottom. Place the nails into the lowest part of the grooves in the ceiling panels, or hide them behind the J-channel on the bottom.
Wood paneling covers walls in many homes, old and new. Wood darkens and is less reflective over time. Valuing wood over paint or not knowing what to do with the paneling makes it difficult to decide on a change. Brighten your living space, and make your rooms appear larger with light tones of paint. Enliven your room with stripes. Painting stripes can bring a touch of class and elegance to any wall. With a well laid out plan, mistakes can be eliminated, and your job will run smoothly.
Instructions
Ready to Paint
1. Take your pictures off the walls, move your furniture to another room and cover the floor with a drop cloth. Fill in any holes and chipped spots using the putty knife. Then sand the paneling. Use a broom to sweep the dust from the wall. Tape the ceiling or molding where it meets the wall. Make sure you tape any other areas where you do not want paint.
2. Pour primer into the paint tray. Cut in edges with a paint brush at the ceiling, the floor and the corners. Be sure to cover the grooves between the panels. Attach the paint roller to the extension pole and primer the wall space. You should use two coats of primer to seal the wood.
3. Cut in the edges, corners and the grooves with a brush of matte or flat color. Roll the entire wall with one color. Apply two coats.
4. Cut in every other panel at the top and bottom with a brush. Roll every other panel with a different semi-gloss paint. Be sure to move slowly so as not to splatter paint on the panel beside it. Paint on two coats. Taping off the grooves next to the panel you're painting will make you feel more secure about leakage. Use the brush to primer and paint the grooves between the panels.
5. Allow to dry, or use a towel to daub as much water out as possible. Set a fan facing the wall to facilitate drying time and provide air circulation. Clean your roller and brush after using primer and between using different paints.
Tags: between panels, every other, every other panel, grooves between, grooves between panels, , with brush
Not all ceiling fans are of the common, motor-driven residential variety.
There are several different varieties of ceiling fans, each designed for a slightly different application. While most residential ceiling fans are the familiar indoor, motor-driven variety, there are also ceiling fans rated for outdoor use, belt-driven ceiling fans and ceiling fans based on the manually operated punkah fan popularized in southeast Asia.
Standard
Standard residential ceiling fans hang from a rod called a downrod and move air with horizontally mounted blades driven by a motor mounted inside a decorative housing. Most have lights mounted on the unit. There are several minor variations on this system, largely related to the design of the motor. Low-profile designs for use on low, flat ceilings have a short downrod. Energy Star-rated ceiling fans use 50 percent less energy than standard ceiling fans.
Belt-Drive Ceiling Fans
Belt-driven ceiling fans are an old design that has undergone a recent resurgence in popularity for decorative purposes and a retro look. Instead of an internal motor, belt-driven fans connect by a belt to an exterior motor. Several fan units can run off a single belt in a large room, with the belt running in a zigzag pattern between the fans to form a point of visual interest within the room.
Outdoor
Outdoor ceiling fans can improve the comfort level of an area like a porch or pavilion. Because normal residential ceiling fans are not sealed against moisture, it is not safe to use them in extremely humid environments or areas where they are exposed to the elements. Outdoor ceiling fans have warp-resistant blades and a rust-resistant finish. They are made of materials that tolerate extremes of temperature and have a moisture barrier around the motor.
Punkah Ceiling Fans
Punkah ceiling fans are a completely different design than rotary ceiling fans. Based on an ancient southeast Asian design in which large palm leaves or fans trimmed with feathers were mounted on the ceiling and waved back and forth by servants pulling ropes to create a breeze directed down toward the floor, modern punkah ceiling fans run off of electricity and are usually made of synthetic materials. The air movement is more like a gentle wind than the circulation from rotary fans.
House being built where the garage is under living space.
Garages are considered unconditioned space by the International Residential Code (IRC). However, there are some circumstances where insulation is needed in the garage ceiling. There are specific requirements that must be adhered to when insulating the garage ceiling in these cases to prevent moisture and mold problems in the future.
Living Space Over A Garage
When living space is present over a garage, the ceiling of the garage directly under the living space must be insulated. Vapor barriers need to be applied to the conditioned side of the floor which is in the living space. This can be achieved by laying a 4 mil polyethylene vapor barrier across the garage ceiling joists before the plywood floor is installed for the living space over the garage, or the living space floor can be painted with vapor retardant paint which is much easier to perform.
The minimum insulation requirement for garage ceilings with living space above them is R-19 fiberglass insulation. However, Energy Star Homes recommends that a minimum of R-38 be installed between garage ceilings and living space floors. This will also aid in sound attenuation when cars pull into the garage.
Heated Garage
If the garage is going to be heated, IRC requires that a 4 mil polyethylene vapor barrier be installed on the ceiling prior to insulating. Garage attic insulation requirements are the same as a house with a minimum insulation R-value of R-38.
Types Of Garage Ceiling Insulation
For garage ceilings that have living spaces above them, closed cell spray foam insulation is the most energy efficient option. The spray foam insulates and air seals the living space from the garage space. It only takes 3-5 inches of closed cell spray foam to totally insulate the garage ceiling, as the R-value per inch of closed cell foam is R-7. This will give you the opportunity to use fiberglass batts to sound proof the living space from the garage if desired as there will be a lot of space to play with.
Cellulose insulation is ground up newspaper that has borates and sulfides added to it for fire, pest, and rodent retardency. Cellulose insulation is blown in and gets into all the nooks and crannies that fiberglass insulation cannot get into. The R-value per inch of cellulose is R-3.8 per inch.
Fiberglass insulation can be blown in or be in batt form. Fiberglass is the most common insulation and is made of spun glass fibers that use the air, not the material as the insulator. Fiberglass has an R-value of R-3.5 per inch.
Tags: living space, garage ceiling, closed cell, garage ceilings, R-value inch, spray foam, above them
Modern living rooms use only very subtle wall colors.
emphasizes strong geometric shapes and muted, neutral colorization. These minimalistic elements are coupled with occasional asymmetrical shapes, curvature or pops of bright color to draw the eye in. Essentially, modern design uses subtle, angular backdrops to make visually interesting foregrounds more pronounced. To achieve this stylistic goal, a modern living room requires specific paint schemes. If you're new to modern design, the process might be confusing. However, some basic painting and design knowledge disambiguates modern painting, making it possible for even a novice to achieve good results.
Instructions
1. Protect wall surfaces with painter's tape, leaving the trim exposed.
2. Paint the trim white using a foam paintbrush and high-gloss latex paint. In modern design, neutral-colored trim helps accentuate a wall's crisp, angular qualities. White trim is a staple of modern design, but you could use a different neutral color, such as gray or black. However, darker trim tends to make the wall color appear bolder and brighter, so you'll need to make sure the wall color is very pallid. Provide 50 percent overlap with each brush stroke to avoid unwanted brush marks.
3. Apply a second coat, if necessary, after the first coat dries.
4. Remove the painter's tape after the trim has dried for 24 hours.
5. Apply painter's tape to the trim, leaving the wall surfaces exposed.
6. Paint the edges of the wall with a synthetic-bristle paintbrush. Use a subtle color and flat latex paint. The goal is to add a little color without distracting from modern furniture pieces and fixtures. Light blues and beiges work well in many modern living room spaces. If you used a dark color for the trim, use a very pale pastel on the walls. As with the primer, 50 percent overlap reduces visible brush marks.
7. Paint the main wall surfaces after you've painted the edges. Use a medium-nap paint roller, and allow 50 percent overlap to limit roller bead lines.
8. Apply additional coats, if necessary, after the base coat dries.
Ceiling fan motors use two separate windings to start and run the fan blades. The start windings have a capacitor to boost electrical power to the motor in order to start moving the blades. The capacitor can be thought of like a battery that stores to give the motor an extra push. A bad capacitor can cause the motor to hum, but not turn the blades. A few simple tests will tell you if the capacitor requires replacement, or if the entire ceiling fan motor is bad.
Instructions
Testing
1. Shut off the switch that supplies power to the ceiling fan motor. Most ceiling fans have two switches on the fan unit. Make sure the switch to the fan motor is off.
2. Turn the light on to the ceiling fan, if applicable. If the light illuminates, sufficient power is being sent to the ceiling fan. If the light does not come on, check the fuse or circuit breaker. Replace the fuse or reset the circuit breaker, and retest. If the fuse blows again or the circuit breaker trips, there is a serious electrical problem in the wiring of the fan unit. Contact a licensed electrician to correct the problem. If you do not have this problem, move on to Step 3.
3. Spin the fan blades by hand with no power being sent to the ceiling fan. If the blades do not turn freely and offer resistance, or if you hear a grinding noise, the bearings in the ceiling fan are bad. In many cases, bad bearings in the ceiling fan are extremely difficult to replace.
4. Turn on the power to the ceiling fan motor. While the motor is humming, spin the blades quickly in a clockwise direction. The motor will do one of two things: The blades will speed up and turn, or the blades will slow down because they're turning in the opposite direction of the fan's directional switch. Either of these results proves the fan capacitor needs replacing.
Capacitor Replacement
5. Shut off all electrical power to the ceiling fan circuit.
6. Remove the fan blades from the ceiling fan housing, following the manufacturer's instructions for assembly.
7. Pull the light kit from the ceiling fan housing. Disconnect the light kit's wire connections. Unscrew the fan's main housing, exposing the interior of the electrical connections and the ceiling fan's start capacitor. The capacitor may be round or square. Two wires lead from the capacitor device and connect to the fan motor. Make note of the wire colors and the connections.
8. Disconnect the wires from the capacitor. Install the new capacitor to the motor wires by twisting the two separate pairs of wires together with the wire pliers from the notes made in Step 3. Cover the bare wires with wire nuts.
9. Replace the main housing cover. Install the light kit and fan blades. Apply power to the unit. Test the light kit. Turn the ceiling fan motor on. If the ceiling fan still hums, the fan motor itself is faulty and needs replacing.
A halo refers to visible applicator marks that don't match the existing painted surface. These can result from brushing the edges and around light fixtures after the ceiling has been rolled, from using a brush or roller to touch-up a sprayed ceiling, or from applying a second coat of spray paint mixed to a different consistency than the first coat. Poor quality paints make it more difficult to seamlessly touch up a surface. Depending on the cause, eliminating a halo can be as easy as using the correct applicator, or in worst case scenarios, recoating the entire ceiling.
Instructions
1. Wait at least 24 hours after you've done the touch-up before trying to eliminate halo marks. Sometimes paint needs some time to dry and blend in, especially if the air is cool and humid, which can significantly retard drying time.
2. Use the same method of application for the paint touch-up. In other words, if the ceiling was rolled, use a roller to touch up; if the ceiling was sprayed, touch it up with a paint sprayer.
3. Run your hand over the halo and sand it down with a sanding sponge or 120-grit sandpaper if it feels rough. Some halo marks are caused by sprayed paint being applied too dry, which will look (and feel) like small raised speckles of paint, according to a Painting and Decorating Contractors of America fact sheet.
4. Thin the paint with either water or paint conditioner. Use up to a pint of water or conditioner per gallon of paint. Apply the thinned touch-up paint well beyond the margins of the halo mark to blend the new paint with the old.
5. Cut in (paint all the edges with a brush) before rolling a ceiling. Cutting in after the ceiling has been rolled often leaves visible brush marks, which will be visible as a halo around ceiling fixtures.
Tags: , after ceiling been, , ceiling been, ceiling been rolled
If you experience frequent cases of the blues during the shorter days of winter, or from spending hours working indoors without being exposed to sunlight, you might benefit from a SAD sun lamp. SAD light therapy treats Seasonal Affective Disorder with full-spectrum light, which mimics the full-spectrum optical brilliance of sunlight. Repeated exposure to full-spectrum light from sun lamps produces biochemical changes in the brain that will help to lift your moods. According to Columbia University, in trials with patients who used a full-spectrum sun lamp to treat their SAD, three-fourths showed lessening of their depressive symptoms.
Types
If you sit at a desk for several hours each day, consider purchasing a desktop sun lamp or lightbox. Desktop sun lamps and lightboxes are small enough to fit on your desk and treat you with the beneficial full-spectrum light while you're working.
Floor full-spectrum sun lamps can be positioned in any spot in your living space. They have flexible goosenecks, come with dimmers so you can adjust the brightness, and provide full-spectrum light while you're reading, watching television, sewing or eating meals.
If you travel often, portable full-spectrum sun lamps are small, light, and designed to fit inside a suitcase to provide you with full-spectrum light treatments while you're on the road.
Sun lamp light intensities are measured in illumination units called LUX. Purchase a model that is at least 10,000 LUX for optimum full-spectrum light healing benefits.
Treatment
For effective treatment with the full-spectrum light therapy, sit in front of your light therapy sun lamp each day from 30 minutes until early afternoon. As you become more comfortable using the sun lamp, slowly increase the time you're exposed to the full-spectrum light.
Sit as close to the sun lamp as possible with the lights on, about one arm length or 20 inches away. Don't doze or sleep; your eyes need to be open to fully benefit from the full-spectrum light treatment. Your face and body should be exposed to the light, but avoid looking directly into it. Carry on with your regular activities, which should be illuminated by the full-spectrum light.
Avoid using the sun lamp in the evening, because it could disrupt your normal sleep pattern and cause insomnia.
Tags: full-spectrum light, light therapy, with full-spectrum, with full-spectrum light, benefit from, full-spectrum lamps, full-spectrum light while
Beadboard paneling can add a sense of rustic charm to any room and at the same time cover up many problems such as cracked plaster or damaged drywall. Install beadboard to eliminate dull old walls and give them a new look. Here's install beadboard paneling to your walls.
Instructions
Prepare to Install Beadboard Paneling
1. Decide how high you want the finished beadboard paneling to extend.
2. Figure out how much paneling you are going to need for your job.
3. Purchase the beadboard paneling and allow it to sit in the room where you are going to install it for 48 hours. This is necessary so that the paneling can contract or expand as needed based on the climate.
4. Finish the paneling, trim and molding with stain or polyurethane, or a combination of both, before you put it on the walls.
5. Allow the beadboard to dry thoroughly before installing it onto the walls.
6. Draw a level line around the entire room, at the height of the top of the bead board, using a level. This is the point where all of the beadboard paneling will line up.
7. Cut the beadboard paneling to the desired height.
Install Beadboard Paneling
8. Place the first board in one of the corners of the room and apply the paneling adhesive in a zigzag pattern over the entire back of the board.
9. Square that piece of paneling to the line that you drew earlier, and secure it to the wall by hammering paneling nails into the studs.
10. Repeat this step, working from corner to corner around the entire room. If a thinner width of paneling is needed to finish a corner, lay the good side of the board face down and cut to the desired width using a circular saw and a guide.
11. Install the beadboard molding trim at the top of the paneling and attach the baseboard trim to the beadboard paneling with paneling nails.
12. Use to attach all of the corner moldings.
Tags: beadboard paneling, paneling nails, around entire, around entire room, beadboard paneling
Decorative ceiling beams add distinction without adding weight.
Decorative ceiling beams are non-load-bearing beams typically created by covering a foam core with wood veneer. This faux beam, connected to the ceiling with an adhesive or screws and nails, gives a room the appearance of having actual wooden beams without the high cost of real beams and the supports or reinforcing needed to hold them in place. There are no specialized tools needed to remove decorative beams. The process is simply the reversal of the installation process: remove the attachment points, remove the beam itself then remove the mounting board.
Instructions
1. Climb a ladder and examine a beam closely where it meets the ceiling. Look for the attachment areas between the beam and the ceiling or joists: most decorative beams use nails or screws driven through the beam and countersunk beneath the surface of the beam to blend in but occasionally installers glue lightweight beams made of foam directly into place. Look for small patches of discoloration along the beam where the installers covered countersunk screws or nails with wood putty.
2. Ask a helper to help hold the beam in place as you work your way down its length to prevent it from crashing down. Pull the connecting nails or screws from the beam using a claw hammer or screwdriver. Dig around the ends of the nails using a utility knife until you can grasp the nail heads with the claw of the hammer and pull them free. Unscrew and remove the screws from the beam if screws were used. Cut the foam into sections using the utility knife if it was glued directly in place and pull it free.
3. Pull the beam from the length of wood that it's attached to and that runs across the ceiling; this will likely be a 2-by-4 screwed into the ceiling joists.
4. Unscrew the length of wood using the screwdriver and pull it from the ceiling to complete the removal of the decorative beam.
5. Use a putty knife to remove any foam remaining on the ceiling from faux beams. Brush any remaining adhesive with . Allow the remover to sit in place five minutes to penetrate the adhesive, then wipe the adhesive and remover from the ceiling with a clean piece of cloth.
Ceiling tiles serve one of two purposes: blocking noise or decoration. Acoustical ceiling tiles absorb sound and create a quieter environment. Decorative tiles may cover old damage and add interest to ceilings. Both types of tile use the same application methods and the same adhesives. Painting a coat of adhesive onto a ceiling and pressing tiles in place creates a strong bond between the tile and the substrate. Removing tiles generally consists of prying them off the ceiling, leaving behind the adhesive residue. To apply new tiles or paint the ceiling, stripping the old adhesive is necessary. If not properly stripped, the new paint or tile will not adhere properly and coating failure will occur.
Instructions
1. Remove furniture and all other items from the room.
2. Lay tarps over the floors and furniture that was not movable. Use painter's tape to hang thin, plastic tarps on the walls, beginning at the edge of the ceiling.
3. Open the windows and doors. Set up large fans for ventilation. Wear a solvent-approved respirator, face shield, solvent-approved coveralls and gloves. Tape the wrists of the coveralls to prevent solvent from dripping onto the skin.
4. Paint a coat of adhesive solvent onto the ceiling with a paintbrush or paint roller. Adhesive solvents are job-specific, meaning the label will clearly state what type of adhesive the solvent will break down. Adhesive solvents are also available in aerosol form, allowing for easier application.
5. Allow the solvent to remain on the ceiling according to the manufacturer's recommendations, generally 15 to 60 minutes.
6. Scrape the softened adhesive off the ceiling with a long-handled scraper until no adhesive remains on the ceiling. Softened adhesive has a runny paste-like consistency.
7. Wipe the ceiling with a soapy damp rag to remove solvent residue. Immediately follow by wiping three to four times with a plain water-dampened rag. Residue-free adhesive solvents are also available and may not require washing the ceiling.
Adding stone accents to your bathroom will make the space elegant and understated.
If you're going for a natural or rustic look for your bathroom, you'll want to include some decorative accents that are made from stone. These items will make your bathroom space especially welcoming, and can be matched with furniture of various colors.
Size
Large bathroom accents like mirrors and pictures are ideal if you have a lot of wall space. Choose a mirror that is trimmed in brown or tan stone if you want neutral decor in the bathroom, or an intricate stone mosaic that will look wonderful with the tan rugs and toilet covers you've selected. For a small bathroom, tiny prints of flowers or nature scenes in frames made of stone on the wall can help to brighten up the space.
Function
Include stone decorative items in your bathroom that serve a purpose other than being nice to look at, so you can save space and keep your theme consistent. A soap dispenser, toothbrush holder and toilet brush holder made of stone will make the look complete. You may also want to include a stone trashcan, or change the faucet knobs on the sink or bathtub to display a stone finish.
Considerations
If your stone accents are in understated colors like beige or gray, consider adding a pop of color to the bathroom by selecting brightly colored linen or shower curtains. For instance, use purple washcloths and hand towels in a bathroom with gray stone decor; a bright orange shower curtain will look great in a bathroom where there is tan or beige stone furniture.
Tags: your bathroom, will make, made stone, stone accents, want include
Stitch a chandelier chain cover to hide chain hardware and electrical cords.
Chandeliers add a touch of elegance to any room. However, the chain and cord attaching them to the ceiling can be less than elegant. By creating a fabric cover, you conceal both the hardware and cord. Choose a fabric that matches the wall color to make the cover recede into the background. Another option is to use a fabric that compliments a color from nearby drapes or a rug to add a pop of color. Using adhesive-backed hook and loop tape to attach the cover makes it simple to cover the cord while the chandelier is hanging in place.
Instructions
1. Measure the chain of the chandelier from the top of the fixture to the ceiling with the tape measure. Include any swags in the chain if the electrical cord is plugged into a nearby wall fixture and not wired directly into the ceiling.
2. Cut a piece of fabric twice the length of the measurement from Step 1 and seven inches wide.
3. Fold and press with an iron a 1/4-inch hem on all four sides of the fabric. Hand-stitch or use a sewing machine to stitch the hem in place.
4. Thread the large-eyed needle with a double length of heavy thread. Run large basting stitches up the long side of the fabric beginning at one end. Repeat for the other side. Do not knot the thread at either end.
5. Gather the basting threads to pull the fabric to the original measurement of the chain from Step 1. Adjust the gathers evenly along the fabric.
6. Cut two pieces of adhesive-backed hook and loop tape the same length as the measurement from Step 1. Peel the backing from one piece of tape and place on the wrong side of one long edge of the gathered , placing the edge of the tape a scant 1/8-inch from the edge of the fabric. Press the tape firmly in place all along the gathered edge.
7. Peel the backing from the second piece of hook and loop, tape and place it on the right side of the opposite long side of the cord cover a scant 1/8-inch from the edge of the fabric. Press the tape firmly in place along the gathered edge.
8. Gently remove the basting threads and discard, using a scissors if necessary to clip and remove the thread.
9. Attach the chandelier cord cover to the chain by wrapping the cover around the cord, pressing the two edges of the hook and loop tape together. Place the seam of the cover where it will be least visible.
Tags: hook loop, hook loop tape, loop tape, cord cover, from Step, 8-inch from, 8-inch from edge
Pendant lighting hung at the correct light helps your space feel proportionate.
Aside from their practical function of illuminating your space, hanging pendants in a home add beauty, character and charm. How high or low your pendants hang from the ceiling will be a matter of personal preference, but you can follow a few simple guidelines to make the process easier.
Dining Room Lighting
If you've chosen a chandelier, drum shade or pendant light to hang over your dining table, the correct height will be primarily dependent upon what feels right to you. For rooms with standard 8-foot ceilings, have someone hold the light at about 28 to 32 inches above the , and step back to look. (For ceilings higher than 8 feet, raise the light 6 inches per extra foot.) If your light is larger than average, move it up a little. For smaller lights, go a little lower. If your room is more traditional than modern, hang your chandelier slightly higher than the standard. Adjust the height until it looks best to you and install.
Kitchen Bar Lighting
Installing a series of lights over a kitchen bar can help add important illumination to a hard-working area of your home. Start with the light at about 30 inches above the countertop. If the pendant would be in the line of sight for someone in your family, raise it so it's out of the way. If it's so low that it leads to bright spots of light on your island, raise it until it casts a soft, even glow.
Entryway Lighting
Lighting in an entryway sets the tone of your entire home, as it's one of the first things guests will see. If your foyer is one-story tall, make sure the bottom of the pendant is at least 7 feet high. For two-story foyers, hang it centered in your feature window, if you have one, or no lower than the bottom of the second story.
Hanging Lights Everywhere Else
Pendant lighting can work in any room. If the light will be hung above an area that gets foot traffic, the bottom should always be at least 7 feet above the floor. If it will be hung above a piece of furniture, such as a bed in your bedroom, choose a height that looks most appealing to you. Be cautious about installing hanging lights above a bath, as many local building codes prohibit it. Check your local codes for more details.
Tags: , about inches above, dining table, higher than,
Roof designs vary over time and for different types of buildings.
One of the design choices for a new home is the type of roof it will have. Your choice will likely depend on a number of factors, including your budget, the availability of contractors with special skills and your building priorities. However, before settling on having a conventional roof built, consider the alternatives. Changing your mind after construction begins is usually too late or too expensive to change your mind about the roof.
Shingles
The most common type of residential roof building involves overlapping shingles. Roofing shingles can be made of asphalt, wood, slate and imitation slate composites. The shingles are stacked over a series of weather-resistant layers. Individual shingles can be replaced as needed. Even with a conventional, shingled roof you can still choose between low-slope and steep-slope designs, which will affect how the roof sheds rain and snow.
Metal
Another major type of roof metal strips. Metal roofing consists of materials such as copper, aluminum and alloys. Metal roof building uses lightweight materials that put less strain on the home than shingles. Metal roofing is durable and won't burn in the event of a fire or lightning strike. Depending on the color and shape, metal roofing can also reflect sunlight to help keep a home cool in the summer.
Solar Roofing
Solar roof building involves placing photovoltaic panels on a home's roof to turn sunlight into electricity. While installing solar panels after a home is built is possible, doing so during initial construction will save money. Solar roof building includes wiring the panels into the home's electrical system and the utility grid. This allows some homeowners to sell unused electricity that their roofs generate back into the system. Solar roofing increases a home's value, reduces its energy use and might quality your home building for additional tax credits.
Green Roofing
Green roofing is another environmentally sustainable type of roof building. Instead of using the space on a roof to generate clean energy, it uses that same space to promote ecology and biodiversity. Green roofing can take the form of rooftop plantings that produce oxygen and give birds and insects places to next. It might also involve rain collection systems that preserve rain water, cutting down on the water demand from the roof itself and the home's landscaping.
Tags: roof building, , building involves, building uses, Metal roofing, roof building
In the past, a ceiling was thought of only as the top of a room. It was perfectly plain and stark white to reflect maximum light from the single fixture in the center of the room. More focus is being placed on ceilings these days. Homeowners have abandoned the single light fixture to provide better light distribution, so the ceiling no longer has to be reflective white, and it no longer has to be plain.
Medallions
Decorative ceiling medallions are making a comeback. Heavy plaster has given way to lightweight polyurethane foam, which comes in different sizes that can be attached to the ceiling with small nails and adhesive. Traditionally used to highlight chandeliers, medallions were used singly in the past, but savvy decorators today use groups of them to add interest to a room or hallway devoid of architectural interest.
A large medallion centered over a long dining table can be flanked on each side by smaller ones with or without additional light fixtures. The ceiling space of a long hallway can be visually broken up by a series of small medallions. Used with pendant lights over a kitchen island or in a vanity area, medallions add an unexpected touch of glamour. Painting the ceiling a rich, bold color heightens the effect of crisp white medallions. Styles range from simple to ornate.
Wood Paneling
Anyone who likes a rustic, country look or the slightly more refined style of a cottage will be drawn to a wood bead-board ceiling. Although the appearance is that of individual boards, the wood actually comes in 4-foot by 8-foot panels for quick, easy installation. This treatment is suitable for flat or sloped ceilings and can be finished around the edges with crown molding. Panels should be stained or painted prior to installation. An opaque stain that allows the wood grain to show through is a very attractive finish, but latex paint also works well and is more durable.
Faux Tin
Tin ceilings were commonplace in the 19th century and have regained some of their original popularity. Metal ceiling tiles are available in authentic styles and patterns that replicate early tin designs and offer the look of yesteryear. Metal tiles can be installed by two methods: a suspended grid or nail-up, which makes them suitable for residential or commercial applications. Available finishes are steel, chrome, brass, copper and paintable white. Depending on the style selected, metal tiles can work in contemporary settings or create historical ambiance. The nail-up installation is suitable for home projects. Home centers that sell the product usually offer helpful do-it-yourself classes.
Attaching your suspended ceiling to the brick walls of your basement gives it an added layer of stability. With the wall attachment, movement in the ceiling is reduced, and there's less chances of sagging along the ceiling edges. In order to complete the attachment, though, you'll need to remove the edge runners already in place and install specially designed along the wall to serve as the new edges to your ceiling. The process isn't difficult, though, and it should be possible to complete the project in a single day.
Instructions
1. Place a straightedge against the wall along the base of the suspended ceiling and mark the base of the ceiling grid with a piece of chalk, using the straightedge to make a straight line. Move down the length of each wall, marking the position of the ceiling base with the chalk.
2. Measure each wall length with a tape measure and use the measurements to cut lengths of ceiling molding strips to match. Cut the molding with a table saw equipped with a blade suitable for cutting through sheet metal to ensure a clean cut through the small ledge piece running along the molding lengths.
3. Place the cut molding strips along the walls, aligning the metal grid ledge strips with the chalked lines. Tape the strips in place temporarily with masking tape.
4. Drill pilot holes through the strips and into the bricks every 10 inches along the length of the strips with a 3/16-inch masonry bit to make way for the 1/4-inch concrete screws. Drill to a depth of about 1-1/2 inches.
5. Switch the masonry bit to a #2 Phillips head bit. Secure the molding strips in place by driving the 1/4-inch concrete screws through the wood and into the bricks with the pilot holes. Remove the masking tape.
6. Remove the tiles located in the suspended ceiling grid edges by tilting them at an angle and sliding them out of the grid square. Push up the T-bar that connects the main body of the grid to the metal runners that form the edges of the grid to allow the runners to hang free from the ceiling.
7. Unhook the runners from the wires that descend from the ceiling joists with a pair of pliers then tie a knot in the wires to raise them 2 inches.
8. Replace the T-bars between the runners nearest the walls and into the ledge bar on the molding strips to recreate the grid, using the molding strips as the new outside edges. Reinsert the edge tiles to complete the ceiling modification.
Suspended concrete floors are most often used in commercial construction and high-rise buildings.
Suspended concrete floors are rare in residential construction in the United States but are common in commercial construction. The American Concrete Institute (ACI) maintains standards for the construction of suspended concrete slabs, providing requirements for the design and construction of suspended floors.
Specifications
The ACI standards require that certain significant specifications be included in the contract documents for a suspended slab design. These specifications include the size and geometry of any supporting framework, the details of reinforcement within the concrete, the specifications of shear connectors that connect the slab to the supports, the location of construction joints, the specification of any metal deck that supports the slab, the specifications of any shoring that supports the structure and the design tolerances of all elements of the structure.
Reinforcement
Internal reinforcement of suspended concrete slabs is typically either conventional iron reinforcement or post-tensioned reinforcement. Post-tensioned reinforcement is a type of reinforcing structure that is under tension and is more effective at preventing deflection, or sagging, of the slab when the concrete is subjected to a weight load. Post-tensioned reinforcement is commonly used when the slab must span larger distances.
Metal Decking and Supports
Suspended slabs are often supported by a steel framework, and the supported slab is considered to be either composite or noncomposite. In a composite slab design, the concrete slab and steel framework are mechanically connected in such a way that the two elements work together to support loads on the slab. In a noncomposite design, the slab and the framework function independently to bear weight loads. In some designs, a metal deck supports the slab, and in these designs the deck typically serves as a form for the concrete when it is poured and remains in place after the concrete has hardened.
Inspections
Inspection of suspended concrete floors is difficult because the floor is often hidden beneath other elements of the structure, and structural deficiencies can be nearly impossible to detect. The deterioration of internal reinforcement is one of the most serious threats to the strength of a suspended concrete slab, and inspectors should be alert to any sign of rusted reinforcement, such as rust on the surface of the concrete. If signs of rust are seen, or the inspector suspects any other structural problems, a specialist should be consulted.
Your ceiling should be securely attached to the trusses above it, but removing a wall may expose that the ceiling has begun separating from the trusses. Once you notice that the ceiling is sagging, you may either hire a contractor to rip out the old ceiling and install a new one, or you may install a new ceiling over the old one. Not only does ripping out the new ceiling require professional help, it also means you must move everything out of the room.
Instructions
1. Mark the location of the trusses behind the entire ceiling in the room, using a stud finder. If you have trouble pinpointing the location of the trusses where the ceiling sags, send an assistant into the attic to help.
2. Cut 1-by-3 wood strips that span the width of the room, in the same direction as the trusses. You may need to use multiple strips to cover from one side of the room to the other, depending on the size of the room.
3. Drive drywall screws through the wood strips and into the trusses above the ceiling, holding the wood strips firmly in place. The screws need to be spaced out about every 2 feet to ensure the wood strips do not sag later.
4. Attach new drywall sheets to the wood strips, driving drywall screws through the perimeter of the drywall and into the wood strips. Spread drywall compound into the joints between the drywall sheets, using a putty knife. Apply paper tape to the joints, over the compound, and wait for the compound to dry.
5. Spread one to two more coats of compound onto the paper tape, until it sits flush with the drywall. Sand the compound with fine-grit sandpaper, once the compound has completely dried. Roll primer and then paint onto the drywall ceiling, allowing the primer to dry first.
The wall framing required in an area that is going to have a is only slightly different from standard framing practices, with the addition of a line of blocking as a fire stop precaution at the lowered ceiling plane. The modification can be easily handled when constructing the walls adjacent to where the lower ceiling structure will be added.
Local and national building codes have specific requirements on wall framing. Consult your local building department before beginning this project.
Instructions
Framing the Wall
1. Cut three pieces of 2-inch by 4-inch lumber to the desired length of the wall. These are the top and bottom plates of the wall section.
2. Place two of the three boards against each other with the ends flush.
3. From one end, make a pencil mark at 15 ¼ inches and use a hand square to align marks on both pieces. Then place a pencil mark at 16-inch increments along the full length of both pieces, squaring each of the marks to insure the layout matches on both plates.
4. Separate the pieces and place both of the plates on edge, spaced sufficiently apart to insert 92 ¼-inch standard 2-inch by 4-inch stud perpendicular to and in between the top and bottom plates.
5. Position a single 92 ¼-inch stud, on edge, for each of the pencil lines of the layout on the plates.
6. Attach each stud to the plate pieces on the 16-inch layout line with two 16d nails through the plate into each stud end. Be sure to attach all the studs to the same side of each layout line. Repeat at the other end of the studs to attach the opposite plate piece.
7. Determine which end you wish to designate as the top of the wall and attach the third length of the 2-inch by 4-inch plate cut in step 1 on top of that end to create a double plate at the top of the wall.
8. With the wall section assembled and lying flat on floor, make certain the section is sitting square by measuring the wall section diagonally from opposite ends. The measurement should be identical when the wall is square.
9. Measuring from the bottom of the bottom plate, make a mark on each of the end studs at the desired height of the drop ceiling. Snap a straight chalk line between these two pencil marks, and then use a hand square to mark both sides of each stud at the chalk line.
10. Cut sufficient 2-inch by 4-inch blocks to fit between each of the studs as fire-stop blocking, nailed inline and directly below the drop ceiling line marks. Secure each block with two 16d nails in each end of the block.
11. Stand the assembled wall frame up and secure it in place. When the area's perimeter walls are standing, the fireblocking should be tight and continuous around the full perimeter of the drop ceiling area.
Tags: 2-inch 4-inch, drop ceiling, , wall section, both pieces
It's amazing how you can change the whole look of your kitchen, and even your house, when you put in new cabinet molding. People spend so much time in their kitchen, just a minor addition can create a major impact not only to homeowners, but to potential homebuyers when houses are up for sale. Try taking your kitchen cabinet refinishing job one step further by adding molding to the front of your flat surface cabinets. You will create an interesting touch without spending much more money than you will to do a simple refinish. Putting molding on your cabinets can be done easily.
Uses
Molding is a great way to make bland cabinets have personality and brighten the decor of a kitchen. It is also a way that you can cover up small blemishes on the corners and combine materials with different widths. Molding can also make an interesting barrier between the kitchen cabinets and the wallpaper or paint, as well as between two different types of wood. Regardless, if you add highly stylish molding for a formal look or simpler molding for a colonial look, you can find the right molding to fit your kitchen design.
Types
To decide which style of molding is best for your kitchen cabinets, you want to try different looks or "profiles." You can even use several moldings together for a combined look. It's all up to you. You can choose from two styles--traditional or decorative. Traditional solid wood molding is used most often and either made from a soft wood, such as pine or a hardwood. It's made in a variety of profiles to match your decor. Decorative hardwood is fancy and can have a number of embossing shapes, patterns and sizes.
Thickness and Width
It is quite easy to put molding on your cabinets. Take down your cabinet doors and remove all the hardware. Clean the wood thoroughly, sand and paint. You can add thin and flat molding, such as lattice and screen, which are about 1/4-inch thick. The widths come in 3/4-inch to 1 3/4 inches.
Choice
To determine which of these are best for your cabinets, purchase a short length of each kind you like. Put them up against the doors to see how they would look in different patterns. You can also lightly glue them to the cabinet in the design you think looks best and take a quick picture with your camera. When you make your final choice, take the final measurements of the cabinet doors and add up the amount of molding needed. Prime and paint the molding and cut with a power miter saw for square corners. Use wood glue to attach the molding and weigh it down for 30 minutes. Wipe away excess glue and let dry.
Crowns
Cutting crown moldings for kitchen cabinet corners can be difficult. Use an electric miter saw and practice a couple of times with some shorter lengths of molding. Set the molding above the cabinet on the wall so it extends beyond the outside corner. Put a mark on the bottom and back of the molding, turn it over and put it on the saw. Put the saw at 45 degrees and hold the molding next to the saw's back and base as if the back is the wall and the base is the ceiling. Cut carefully.
Tags: your kitchen, molding your, your cabinets, best your, cabinet doors, Kitchen Cabinet Molding
A vessel that sits on top of the vanity gives added height to your converted washstand vanity.
Converting a washstand to a bathroom vanity can add a touch of grace and nostalgia to a bathroom. It will be necessary to make some modifications to the washstand to accommodate the plumbing, depending on the location of your existing drain and water supply pipes. There are a variety of vessels and faucets widely available at hardware stores for creating a custom bathroom vanity.
Instructions
1. Measure the space where you plan to install the converted washstand to ensure it will fit, especially if the unit has to fit between a toilet and a wall. If the washstand is going on an open wall, the width of the unit size is not as important.
2. Measure where the drain and pipes come into the bathroom. If all the pipes come in from the back wall, measure from the floor up to the pipes. If the pipes come up through the floor, measure from the back wall to the pipes. If the drain comes up through the floor and the water supply pipes come in from the back wall, measure from the floor up to the drain pipe and then from the floor up to the water supply pipes. Draw a square around the pipes, allowing two inches all around the pipes.
3. Remove the drawer and the doors from the washstand. This will provide easier access for when you are hooking up the plumbing.
4. If all the pipes come in from the back wall, turn the washstand around. Measure from the floor up to the bottom of the square around the pipes. Measure the same distance up from the floor on the back of the washstand and draw a matching square on the back of the washstand. If there is a middle shelf, check to see where it is located in relation to the square you just drew. You will have to take out the shelf if it interferes with the pipes.
If the pipes come up through the floor, turn the washstand upside down. Measure from the wall to the closest edge of the square around the pipes. Measure the same distance from the back of the washstand and draw a matching square on the bottom. If there is a middle shelf, you will have to cut a corresponding square hole in the shelf as well. If the shelf still interferes with the drain pipe, the shelf will have to come out.
If the drain comes up through the floor and water supply pipes come in from the back wall, draw a square on the back of the washstand for the water pipes and one on the bottom for the drain pipe. If there is a middle shelf, it will have to come out.
5. Drill a hole inside each corner of the square you drew on the washstand with a 3/4" wood bit. Insert the jigsaw blade in one of the holes and cut along the line to the next hole. Continue this until the square is completely cut out.
6. Place the vessel and faucet on the top of the washstand and position them in the desired location. Make sure the drain and water pipes line up with the sink drain and the faucet. Draw a line around the base of the vessel and the faucet. Drill a 3/4" hole inside the outline of the shape you drew for the vessel and faucet. Insert the jigsaw blade and cut it out. For bowl shaped vessels with no pedestal, cut an 8-10 inch hole at a 45 degree angle to allow the bowl to sit properly. For vessels with a pedestal, you only have to cut a hole that is the size needed to fit the sink drain. This gives the unit a little more height. To determine where the hole should go, take a pencil and stick it through the sink drain hole in the vessel when it is in place on top of the washstand and draw a circle.
7. After the holes for the vessel and faucet have all been cut out, apply two coats of marine varnish on the top of the washstand to prevent water from penetrating the wood.
8. When the varnish has dried, set the washstand into place, fitting the square holes in the washstand around the pipes. To secure the washstand to the wall, drill a pilot hole into the wall and screw the unit to the wall.
9. Place the vessel into place. For a bowl vessel, apply clear tub and tile silicone around the edge of the hole before you sit the bowl in the hole and apply silicone around the bowl where it meets the top of the washstand. For the pedestal style vessel, apply silicone around the base of the vessel where it meets the top of the washstand. Set the faucet on top of the washstand and hook up the water supply.
10. For the drawer, measure the distance from the front of the washstand to the drain pipe and cut the depth of the drawer so it is shorter and will slide into position flush with the front of the washstand. Replace the doors on the front of the washstand.
Tags: pipes come, from back, water supply, around pipes,
If you think there may be a mouse in your house, consider your options.
There's plenty of signs that you have unwanted visitors in your home. You might see little mouse droppings along your floor, or hear scratching or movement in the walls at night. A few holes might appear in a pile of clothes on the floor. But don't worry; if you think you might have a mouse problem, there's an array of potential solutions for you to try.
Natural Remedies
There are lots of natural oils and substances that are known to repel mice. For example, mice do not enjoy the smell of peppermint or spearmint. Cotton balls can be doused in peppermint or spearmint oil, and can be placed strategically in dark crevices and in cabinets around the home. According to Grandma's Home Remedies, mint - in both plant and leaf form - can also help drive a mouse away. Bay leaves and onions may work as well. The best natural remedy is to keep your home tidy. Make sure you don't have any food crumbs on the floor, or allow easy access to cereal boxes or grains.
Home Remedies
If you want to start by using items around your house, try mothballs and fabric softener sheets. These two items notoriously discourage mice from hanging around your home. Place them around your storage areas and behind furniture. The scent of ammonia may work as well. Try putting ammonia in a small dish, and place it in a safe place where no children or pets might eat it.
Chemical Remedies
You can buy chemical powders that mimic the urinary smells of predators, such as the fox and bobcat. Organic, natural versions of these substances - which are actual samples of urine - are also available for sale, and may be safer for homes with children and pets. Poisonous repellents include powders and pellets which could prove toxic to the rodents. Some pellets kill mice if they are eaten.
Purchased Remedies
The traditional mousetrap isn't considered the most humane way to get rid mice, but it often works if you only have one or two mice in your home. Put bait on the mousetrap, such as peanut butter or cheese, and set the trap up in an inconspicuous corner or crevice, close to where you think there may be a mouse. For a less grotesque solution, try purchasing contraptions that prevent mice from entering your home in the first place. An example is the Mousemesh, a mesh insert that is placed over vents to discourage mice from coming in.
Tags: your home, around your, mice from, children pets, discourage mice, discourage mice from
A miter box and box saw can be purchased at any home improvement or hardware store.
A miter box is a simple and inexpensive plastic or wooden frame that assists in holding a box saw at a 90 or 45 degree angle to a piece of wood being cut. A miter box is an essential tool for cutting lengths of crown moulding to the appropriate length and angle so the corners of the decorative trim recess or seamlessly overlap once installed. Although a miter box is a simple tool to learn to use, practice is necessary to create professional-looking trim.
Instructions
1. Measure a piece of crown moulding to its installation length and mark the wood with a carpenter's pencil.
2. Determine whether the cut is to be for an inside corner or an outside corner on a wall. If the piece is for an inside corner, you will cut the piece of moulding at a 45 degree angle towards the center of the length of wood. If it is for an outside corner, you will cut the piece of moulding on a 45 degree angle away from the length of wood.
3. Place the moulding vertically in the miter box with the measuring mark aligned to the cutting channel.
4. Place the box saw into the appropriate cutting channel for the angle of your cut.
5. Hold the moulding tightly in place with your hand, or clamp it in place, to prevent it from moving while cutting.
6. Slowly move the box saw back and forth to start a cut.
7. Continue cutting the piece of wood until the cut is complete.
Ceiling fan medallions add a touch of decoration to an otherwise bare ceiling. Besides the ceiling and wall moldings, the ceiling fan itself and other light fixtures, most ceilings have nothing to help them match the rest of the style in a room. A ceiling fan medallion can make up for this. Medallions adhere to the ceiling itself and the ceiling fan is fitted through the center of the medallion. Although a medallion made of plywood can't have the traditional relief patterns of many medallions, it can still give your ceiling a decorative balance.
Instructions
1. Determine the size you wish your medallion to be and mark this on the plywood. A room 20 feet by 20 feet can sustain a medallion more than 3 feet in diameter.
2. Cut your plywood into a circle using the diameter you chose. Use a router to cut the plywood in a circle or bring the wood to a hardware store that will cut it for you. Cut a 6-inch wide inner circle at the center of the plywood. This circle is where the ceiling fan mounting hardware attaches to the ceiling.
3. Prime the plywood medallion. Apply a couple layers of primer, since plywood is very absorbant.
4. Paint the plywood the same color as your ceiling trim. Consider painting the medallion with some creativity--since it is going to be on your ceiling. Keep in mind, though, that the fan's spinning blades will obstruct and distort the design.
5. Remove your ceiling fan from the ceiling. Turn off the power to the circuit by turning the breaker off. Unscrew the canopy and disconnect the wires from the fan and the ceiling. Pull the ceiling fan off the mounting bracket and carry the fan to the floor.
6. Spread a generous amount of construction epoxy evenly on the underside of the plywood medallion. Carry the medallion up the ladder and press it to the ceiling.
7. Drill in a few dry wall screws through the medallion so that it is mounted to the ceiling while the glue dries.
8. Caulk the holes made from the dry wall screws as well as along the edge of the medallion where it meets the ceiling.
Adding paneling to walls is a fast way to transform the interior of any room. Paneling is sturdy enough to last but it is generally inexpensive enough to be a viable option for remodeling a room. Although there are many ways to apply and mount paneling, gluing is probably the simplest and least arduous method. The steps below will show mount paneling with glue the correct way, leaving an attractive and professional-looking end result.
Instructions
1. Clean and dry the walls that will be paneled using the rags or towels. Simple soap and water will suffice.
2. Remove loose wallpaper if present. Panels can be applied directly to bare wall studs or on top of drywall or other pre-existing walls.
3. Measure the length of each section of wall to figure how many wall panels will be needed from corner to corner. Record these measurements.
4. Use a circular saw to cut the paneling according to your measurements to make them fit each section of wall.
5. Apply the glue in a zigzag pattern to the back of each panel, one at a time. Space each zigzag about 6 inches from the next to avoid using too much glue.
6. Press and hold the panels to the wall one at a time. Follow the glue manufacturer's instructions for time to be held in place and curing times.
7. Repeat these steps until the room is completed. Pay extra attention to corner pieces and glue around corners according to the manufacturer's instructions to ensure a firm hold.
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