Monday, September 30, 2013

Reinforce Floors With Sister Joists







Sister joist installed next to a weak, damaged joist.


Older homes often have some floor or ceiling joists that have been damaged during the life of the structure. Even some newer homes have floors that are under designed. Adding a second joist to the side of some or all of the existing joists is a way of reinforcing these structures. The second joist id often called a sister joist.


Instructions


1. Evaluate your floor or ceiling system. Are there weak or damaged joists? Are you adding significant weight like a hot tub? Adding joists beside the current joists is a good way to reinforce damaged areas or beef up the system to support additional load.


2. Determine how you are going to slide the joist into position. Often electrical, plumbing, and heating utilities will hinder easily positioning the joists. You may need to relocate or temporarily remove some of these obstructions. Joists that are slightly shorter than the total span can sometimes be used by securely fastening them to the existing joist.


3. After formulating a plan. Purchase the required material. Get a little extra to cover unforeseen issues. Remember, sister joists perform best when securely fastened to the existing joist. Construction adhesive and screws can be used to make a very effective connection.


4. Test position the sister joist. While the joist is in position mark the position for fasteners, and any areas where glue should not be applied.


5. Drill the sister joist for all fasteners. This will make it much easier to install the fasteners once the joist is in position. Use two rows of fasteners located about 1/4 the depth of the joist from each edge. Space the fasteners 12" - 16" on center.


6. Add construction adhesive to the joist. The combination of screws and construction adhesive forms a secure, squeak free connection.


7. Install the joist. You may need to force the two joists into alignment. Here a 2x4 is driven under the joists to force alignment prior to driving home the screw fasteners.


8. Drive shims firmly under the sister joist at all bearing locations. Always use the shims in pairs such that a level surface results. Here commercially available plastic shims are used to shim the sister joist.


9. Drive home all of the screw fasteners. Notice this joist needed to be shorter than the span because of obstructions that could not be easily removed.

Tags: sister joist, construction adhesive, existing joist, floor ceiling, home screw, home screw fasteners

Friday, September 27, 2013

Cut Circles In Ceiling Tiles

You might need to cut circles in a ceiling tile for several reasons. Two of the most common are installation of can lights and adding a ceiling diffuser. The actual task of cutting the tile is simple. The most complicated part of this job is ensuring that the circle you'll cut is properly placed on the tile. The proper measuring technique will assist you in determining placement.


Instructions








1. Measure from the right hand side of the grid to the edge of the light fixture or ceiling diffuser, using a tape measure. Transfer this measurement to the ceiling tile, which will be placed in the grid square.


2. Measure from one of the grid sides running perpendicular with the right side to the edge of the light fixture or ceiling diffuser. Transfer this measurement to the same ceiling tile.


3. Measure the diameter of the ceiling diffuser or light fixture. Open a compass to this diameter. Place the pencil end of the compass on one of the two lines and the pointed end of the compass on the ceiling tile in what will be the center of the opening for the diffuser or light fixture.


4. Trace from one mark to the next mark. The pencil must hit each mark as it goes by. Continue arcing the compass until you have traced a completed circle.


5. Place the cutting blade of a utility knife onto the traced circle. Apply gentle pressure and cut around the entire circle. Do not bend or twist the circle to remove it. Continue cutting through the ceiling tile until the circle easily slides out.

Tags: ceiling tile, ceiling diffuser, light fixture, diffuser light, diffuser light fixture

Calculate Roof Area

If you're planning to put a new roof on your house, it's important to purchase enough matching shingles to complete the job. To do that, you need to accurately calculate the area of your roof. Calculating area is easy in two dimensions, but nearly all roofs slope up to a peak, which adds a third dimension. Fortunately, you don't have to know complicated geometry to factor in the slope of your roof. You need only a level and a tape measure to find the "rise" of your roof. After that, just plug in the corresponding factor. You'll find the instructions below, along with the appropriate factors and formulas.


Instructions


1. Determine the dimensions of the roof. Multiply the length times the width to calculate the square footage.


2. Determine the slope of the roof. This is expressed in terms of how many inches the roof rises for every foot of horizontal distance. Mark a level 12 inches from one end. Place the other end of the level at the peak of the roof and hold it level. Measure the distance from the surface of the roof to the bottom of the level at the 12-inch mark. This distance is the rise. For example, if your measurement is seven inches, the rise is expressed as 7:12 in roofing terminology.








3. Find your "pitch" factor based on the rise you calculated in Step 2. Choose one of the following: If your rise is 3:12, the pitch factor is 1.035. If your rise is 4:12, the pitch factor is 1.055. If your rise is 5:12, the pitch factor is 1.085. For a rise of 6:12, the pitch factor is 1.12. Finally, if the rise is 7:12, use a pitch factor of 1.16.








4. Multiply the square footage you calculated in Step 1 by the pitch factor you determined in Step 3. The answer is the area of your roof.

Tags: pitch factor, rise pitch, rise pitch factor, your roof, your rise, your rise pitch, area your

Install A Cultured Bathroom Vanity Counter

Cultured stone counters have integral sinks and backsplashes.


Cultured stone vanity counters and sinks are great additions to many bathroom designs. A cultured stone top features an integral sink, which eliminates the need to mount a sink to the counter before installing it on the vanity. When installing any counter, be sure to test it with the vanity in place before securing the vanity to the wall. Counters are made to overhang vanities by 1/2 inch on each side, so make sure to compensate for the overhang before beginning.


Instructions


1. Lay the counter on a flat surface with the sink holes extending off the surface to allow access to the underside. Place the stems of the faucet through the holes and tighten the nuts down on the stems from below with a wrench.








2. Run a dust cloth around the edge of the vanity where the cultured stone vanity top will be installed. Remove any dust or debris that could interfere with the bond between the top and the vanity.








3. Squeeze a tube of silicone caulk adhesive in a thin line around the top of the vanity. Keep this line of caulk continuous and centered on the vanity's edge. Avoid filling the entire edge with caulk; the weight of the cultured stone counter will flatten the caulk.


4. Lift the cultured stone above the vanity and center it above the cabinet as much as possible before lowering it into place. Allow the counter to rest on the cabinet for one minute, then lift it again. This will cause the adhesive to pull upward in thin strings, strengthening it. Lower the cultured stone top back into place and allow the adhesive to set overnight.

Tags: cultured stone, into place, stone vanity

Problems With A Popcorn Ceiling







Popcorn ceilings, known for their rough, uneven texture, are used by homeowners because of their reasonable cost and noise reduction abilities. The popcorn texture is either sprayed or painted on an existing ceiling, which makes installation easy as well. Because the rough texture hides flaws, popcorn ceilings are often used to update the look of older homes. However, if you are considering installing a popcorn ceiling or deciding whether to keep an existing one, take note of several problems with the popcorn texture before making your decision.


Asbestos


One of the most serious problems with popcorn ceilings is that many that were installed prior to 1977 contain asbestos, according to Do It Yourself, a home improvement website. Asbestos is a toxic mineral fiber which is linked to lung cancer, asbestosis, mesothelioma and other pulmonary conditions, according to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. Its use in construction materials is since banned in the U.S. If your popcorn ceiling has asbestos, remove it as promptly as possible to prevent potential health risks. Do not attempt the removal yourself; call a professional.


Difficult to Paint


A practical problem with popcorn ceilings is that they have an extremely heavy texture which makes them difficult to paint. This is an issue if you wish to redecorate a room with popcorn ceiling in the future.


Difficult to Repair


If your popcorn ceiling suffers leaks or other damages, it is difficult to repair due to the texture. Some products are designed specifically for repairing these ceilings, but, in most cases, you must replace the entire ceiling.


Difficult to Clean


Because of the rough, uneven texture, popcorn ceilings are difficult to clean. Dust and cobwebs often settle in the indentations, and it is difficult to remove them. Popcorn ceilings are prone to stains as well because liquid can settle in the crevices of the ceiling's texture. The fact that they retain a great deal of dust and debris make them an especially poor ceiling option for homes with allergy or asthma suffers.


Falling Particles


It is not uncommon for particles from the popcorn ceiling's rough texture to fall during the life of the ceiling, which not only has the potential to cause a mess, but also may aggravate allergies, asthma and other respiratory conditions in some individuals.


Difficult to Remove


Once they are installed, popcorn ceilings are difficult to remove. The process is extremely tedious and time consuming, so individuals should ensure that they enjoy the look of this type of textured ceiling before installing it. When removing it, first have the ceiling tested to ensure that it does not contain asbestos. A professional must remove a popcorn ceiling with asbestos, or recover it with new drywall. If your popcorn ceiling is asbestos free, remove all the furniture in the room or cover it with plastic sheeting. Wear safety goggles, a face mask and long sleeves to protect yourself from irritation. Moisten the ceiling with water so it becomes soft and easier to scrape off. A taping knife works best for removing a popcorn ceiling. Work in small sections until all the texture is removed. In most cases, the ceiling beneath the popcorn is in rough shape. It is often necessary to spackle some areas before repainting.

Tags: popcorn ceiling, with popcorn, popcorn ceiling, popcorn ceilings, that they, your popcorn

Thursday, September 26, 2013

Install Batt Insulation In A Ceiling







Installing insulation in your ceiling space is one of the most effective ways of insulating your home, reducing your heating and cooling bills, and helping to prevent the buildup of condensation or mold on your ceiling. Fiberglass batt insulation is a common building material that is straightforward to install. If you have an easily accessible attic space, you have good balance and you don't mind working in cramped quarters, insulating your ceiling is a very worthwhile home improvement task.


Instructions


1. Measure the area of your attic to determine the number of bales of batt insulation you need. A batt insulation R value of R-30 or higher is best for attic insulation. If you live in a colder climate, the higher the R value, the better.


2. Clear your attic space of cobwebs and debris. Lay down the piece of plywood over your ceiling structure as a movable platform to work from. So as to not damage your ceiling, be careful to only stand on the wood ceiling structure, not on the ceiling lining itself. Install a halogen work light in the attic space to illuminate your work area properly.


3. Move the bales of insulation up to the attic one by one, and open the bags when they are in the attic. Fiberglass insulation expands a lot when released from the bags. Wear safety goggles, gloves and a mask respirator while you work with the batt insulation.


4. Start from the exterior wall line and work your way in by stuffing the insulation between the ceiling joists so that it fits snugly, but not too tightly. Use your Stanley knife to cut the insulation to size if it is too big. Fill all the small gaps in the ceiling structure you can.


5. Install attic vents at the eaves of your roof to provide unobstructed ventilation to your roof space. Fill your roof overhang with batt insulation as far as you can.


6. Carefully install batt insulation around your recessed light fittings in the ceiling, leaving a 3-inch gap around each light fitting. Covering your light fittings will cause excess heat to build up in your insulation. Also, leave a gap around air vents and chimney flues.

Tags: your ceiling, batt insulation, attic space, ceiling structure, your roof, batt insulation

Diy Ceiling Mount Projectors

Ceiling-mounted projectors are ideal for a home theater.


Ceiling-mounted video projectors have a few advantages over shelf- or desk-mounted projectors. They are up out of the way, meaning the image isn't blocked every time someone decides to cross the room, and they won't get bumped accidentally. They're also better ventilated, leading to lower running temperatures and longer lamp life. Ceiling-mounted projectors might be harder to reach but that's not an issue unless you lose your remote control. A ceiling mount's position is a hassle to change, however, so you need to be careful when you select a location.








Instructions


1. Figure out the "throw range" of the projector for your screen's size. A projector with a throw range of 10 to 12 feet for a 100-inch screen must be mounted between 10 and 12 feet from the screen. See Projector Central's projector calculator for help in determining your projector's throw range.


2. Measure and mark a distance within the projector's throw range on your ceiling. This distance is measured between the projector screen and the front of the projector.


3. Place your projector's ceiling mount in position and measure the distance between the front of the projector and, if your ceiling mount has a hollow center, the center of the ceiling mount. If your ceiling mount does not have a hollow center, measure six inches past the back of the projector. Ceiling mounts with hollow centers are designed to have cables run through them.








4. Drill a small hole in the ceiling where the center of the ceiling mount will be installed. This hole is for the projector's video and power cables. If you don't plan to run cables through the ceiling, or have a drop ceiling, you can skip this step.


5. Place the center of your ceiling mount over the small hole and screw the projector mount to your ceiling supports. Make sure the front side of the mount is facing the screen.


6. Mount the projector on your ceiling mount. Different mounts connect to projectors differently; consult the mount's manual for specific directions. Your projector probably will be installed upside down, with the mount attached to the bottom side of the projector.


7. Run the necessary cables from your home theater system to the projector. You can usually run one video cable and a power cable.


8. Connect the cables and finish the setup of your home theater system.

Tags: ceiling mount, your ceiling, throw range, your ceiling mount, home theater

Wednesday, September 25, 2013

Bathroom Cabinets Ideas

A medicine cabinet is one of the most traditional bathroom storage options.


As with many rooms in your home, having adequate storage options in your bathroom can prevent the space from being cluttered and disorganized. Cabinets are a versatile and effective way to store items in your bathroom, and can provide a decorative element to the space as well. There are a variety of options that may work for your home, so consider the style that your prefer and the space that you have available to find the ideal cabinet for your bathroom.


Vanity Cabinets








One of the most convenient storage options in a bathroom is a vanity cabinet. It is designed to house a sink and provide countertop space on either side of the basin. The cabinets are found beneath the sink and usually feature a combination of shelves and drawers. They are usually made of wood, but other materials such as metal or laminate may also be used.


Medicine Cabinet


A medicine cabinet is a traditional bathroom storage option. It is usually mounted to the wall above the sink and often features a mirrored front door. The cabinet contains a series of shelves that are ideal for storing small toiletry items, such as toothpaste, floss, Band-Aids and pain relievers. The cabinet may be made from a variety of materials, including wood and metal, and may have attached lights to help illuminate the area around the sink.


Wall-Mounted Cabinets


Supplementing your medicine cabinet with additional wall-mounted cabinets is an effective way to increase your bathroom's storage space. Wall-mounted cabinets are an ideal option for a smaller bathroom because they do not take up any floor space. They are often made from wood and come in a variety of sizes for storing linens, extra toiletries, toilet paper and other bathroom accessories. While wall-mounted cabinets are typically a large single unit that features multiple shelves or storage compartments, you may also opt for floating wall cabinets that are essentially individual storage boxes with doors. These are an ideal option for a bathroom with a modern design or one that does not have enough wall space for a larger cabinet.


Freestanding Cabinets


In a large bathroom, a freestanding cabinet unit may be an attractive storage option. You can find these cabinets in a variety of materials, styles and sizes, so there should be an option to match most decorating styles. If you require significant storage space, consider an armoire-style cabinet, which typically provides shelves and drawers and is ideal for storing linens. A hutch-style unit is an attractive option if you wish to display items in addition to storing them. Glass-front cabinets also allow you to showcase decorative items. For a basic option, looks for a closet-style cabinet that features shelves that are hidden behind one or two doors.

Tags: your bathroom, bathroom storage, storage options, ideal option, ideal storing, made from, medicine cabinet

Replace A Vanity Sconce

Vanity sconces are the lights above your bathroom mirror. One way to update the look of your bathroom is to replace these lights. Scones are available at home improvement centers in a variety of styles and colors. Replacing the sconce requires turning off the electricity to the bathroom lighting. Because of this, it is a good idea to perform this project during the day if you have windows in your bathroom. Otherwise, consider using an alternate light source while replacing the sconce.








Instructions


Remove Existing Vanity Sconce


1. Place a table lamp or other type of light source on a flat surface in the bathroom. Connect an extension cord to the light source and plug the other end of the extension into an outlet outside of the bathroom. The light source provides light to the room while you have the power off to the bathroom.


2. Turn off the circuit breaker to the bathroom. The circuit breaker is usually clearly marked on the control panel of your electrical panel box. Turn the bathroom light switch on and off to ensure the electricity is off.


3. Unscrew the vanity sconce shade from the fixture. Some shades may have two or three thumb screws that secure the shade to the fixture. Turn the screws counterclockwise to remove the shade. Unscrew the light bulb and set it in a safe place.


4. Remove the screws that secure the vanity sconce to the wall with a Phillips-head screwdriver. Pull the sconce away from the wall enough that you can access the wires.


5. Twist the wire caps counterclockwise with your fingers. The wire caps connect the house wires to the wires on the sconce. Remove the sconce from the wall. Remove the two screws that secure the sconce mounting plate to the electrical junction box with a Phillips-head screwdriver.


Install New Vanity Sconce


6. Insert the house wires through the center of the new mounting bracket. Secure the mounting plate to the junction box with the retaining screws and screwdriver. Hang the sconce on the hook on the mounting bracket. This allows you to connect the wires without a helper.


7. Connect like colored house wires with the sconce wires. Twist wire caps on the ends of like-colored wires to secure them together.








8. Position the new vanity sconce over the mounting plate, stuffing the wires into the junction box. Secure the sconce to the mounting plate with the retaining screws.


9. Thread the light bulb into the sconce socket and attach the new sconce shade. Some shades simply screw into the sconce, while others may use thumb screws to secure the shade.


10. Turn on the circuit breaker to the bathroom area.

Tags: light source, mounting plate, circuit breaker, house wires, screws that, screws that secure, that secure

Tuesday, September 24, 2013

Replace Plywood In A Camper

Older campers sometimes require repairs to the plywood.


Plywood is the material of choice for camper construction. The problem with plywood is that it is prone to rotting at the first sign of water. As water seeps in undetected from seams, vents, windows, lights and access panels, it slowly damages the structure of the camper. Once you notice soft spots in the floor, walls and ceilings, expect to spend a lot of time and effort replacing the plywood.


Instructions








1. Locate damaged areas of plywood by looking for water stains on the walls, ceiling and floors. Check for soft or spongy areas on the floor and in the ceiling.


2. Remove any wall or floor covering to expose the plywood. With a reciprocating saw, cut out the damaged area plus two inches on each side to make sure all of the damage is removed. If possible, cut away enough plywood so that you can attach the new piece to the camper's frame.


3. Cut a new piece of exterior grade plywood to fit into the area where the damaged wood was removed. Attach the new plywood to the camper with wood screws.


4. Check the ceiling for damage. Before cutting into the ceiling panels, make sure that they can be removed without compromising the structural integrity of the camper. In vintage campers, plywood may have been used in ceiling panels. To replace plywood in vintage campers, use a reciprocating saw to cut out the damaged area. Cut a piece of new exterior plywood and place it in the area where the damaged wood was removed. Use wood screws to secure the new plywood in place.

Tags: area where, area where damaged, ceiling panels, damaged area, damaged wood, damaged wood removed, make sure

Drop Ceiling Ideas

Drop cellings come in a variety of patterns.


Drop ceilings are perfect if you want to hide plumbing and electrical wires in a basement, but they can also be used elsewhere as well to create a patterned, custom-built look without paying for a custom-built ceiling. Drop ceilings are also advantageous in that if you change the design of the room, you can change the look of the ceiling by just replacing the panels.


Illuminated Tiles


Illuminated ceiling panels, called light lens diffusers, have been used in offices for years to provide light to a room from an unseen fixture. Without the diffuser, fluorescent light would be too bright in some spots and too weak in others. With a little planning you can create a mix of solid and translucent tiles to personalize the look of your ceiling. You can even purchase translucent fiberglass ceiling tiles with designs on them, making the tiles look like stained glass. For a little extra money, you can purchase acrylic light lens diffusers that can be printed with high-resolution scenic photographs, or even your own pictures.


Wood Ceilings


You can use wooden tiles to give your space a more classic look. Choose the species of wood and the color of the stain to create a personalized look that works well with the space. The tiles come pre-finished and ready to install. The tiles also come with wood to cover the metal grid, including blocks for the intersections so that the wood can expand in changing environmental conditions. You can also get pre-mitered corner pieces to round out the look of the ceiling.








Mirror Panels


If you want to give your space an interesting look, you can replace your tiles with mirrored tiles. You can replace all of the tiles, or just a few to customize the look of the ceiling. Unlike mirrored wall panels, ceiling tiles are unlikely to be touched, so they only need an occasional dusting to clean. Mirrored panels can be made from glass, acrylic, polystyrene and Mylar. Some panels may require you to install your standard tiles above the mirrored tiles to provide rigidity, so check with the manufacturer of the mirrored tiles for installation instructions.


Hiding the Drop Ceiling Grid


If you like the idea of a drop ceiling, but hate the idea of staring up into a grid, you can purchase tiles that are manufactured to hide the metal framework. Some of these tiles hide the grid by giving the tile a thin three-dimensional design that incorporates the metal grid into the flow of the ceiling. Other tiles hide the grid by sitting up on the metal framework, making the face of the tiles flush with the metal.


Hand-Painted Tiles


Because drop-ceiling tiles are easy to remove and replace, you can paint the standard tiles yourself to give your ceiling a customized look. You can paint each panel with the same pattern to create a patterned look, or paint alternating panels in solid colors. If you have the skill, you can even paint a larger pattern across multiple tiles. Remember that you can also paint the grid structure to remove the look of a tiled ceiling system.

Tags: give your, look ceiling, mirrored tiles, ceiling tiles, create patterned

Monday, September 23, 2013

Replace Fluorescent Light Boxes In The Kitchen

Kitchens typically use fluorescent lights as undercabinet task lighting. The low profile of these lights coupled with an energy efficient bulb that emits less heat, makes these fixtures ideal for tight spaces. Over time, the light fixture may cease to work due to wear on the wiring or another problem with the fixture. No matter where the fluorescent light is located, the light box can be removed and replaced for functional or aesthetic reasons.


Instructions


1. Turn off the electricity to the fluorescent light at the main circuit breaker. Flip the light switch to the fluorescent light box to ensure that the power is off.


2. Remove the decorative fluorescent light bulb covering from the light box. Most coverings slide out of place and do not require tools for removal. If the covering is not easily removed, look for and loosen any screws that might secure the bulb covering with a screwdriver.


3. Remove the fluorescent light bulbs from the light fixture. Remove any screws holding the light fixture to the ceiling or bottom of the cabinet using an electric drill with a screwdriver bit. Unscrew the wire nuts connecting the fixture wiring to the electrical wiring. Detach the wires and discard the old light box.


4. Connect the wires from the new light box to the electrical wiring by pairing the same colors together. Secure each pair by twisting the ends of the wires together and putting a wire nut over the bare wires that make the connection. Coil the wires and place them into the wall or ceiling cavity.


5. Use a stud finder to locate the joists in the ceiling and mark their location with a pencil. Align the new light box so it covers the hole in the ceiling but also allows most of screw holes to be placed directly over a joist. If the light box is underneath a cabinet, skip this step.


6. Screw through the fixture screw holes and into joist or cabinet using an electric drill. Continue installing screws until the fluorescent light fixture is securely fixed to the cabinet or ceiling. Install new fluorescent light bulbs and the decorative bulb cover for the new light box. Turn on the circuit that supplies electricity to the new fixture at the main circuit breaker.


7. Fill any screw holes from the old fixture using a putty knife. Use wood putty for cabinetry and joint compound for the ceiling. Allow the filler to dry and sand the area smooth using a fine grit sandpaper. Paint or stain the repairs as necessary using a paintbrush.

Tags: fluorescent light, light fixture, from light, screw holes, bulb covering

Vintage Bathroom Ideas

The style of any home should reflect the owner's personal style. Many owners of older homes like to maintain original elements of the home that bring out character of a simpler time. Using vintage fixtures and vintage style elements in your bathroom provides a way to maintain the feel of the original house, whether the whole design is vintage or it incorporates some modern elements.


Vintage Magazines


Before you look to buy the items necessary to make the vintage bathroom a success, look a vintage magazines and advertisements for the era that you want to re-create. Your guests may not notice that the bathtub is from the 1930s and the medicine cabinet is from the 1960s but if you want to be consistent, research is important.


Some of the best vintage magazines to look at when researching these topics are Better Homes and Gardens, Ladies Home Journal and American Home. These titles may be available through the local library on microfiche or through auctions sites such as eBay. These magazines may have articles on bathroom décor and some of the newest bathroom inventions for that era.


Vintage Fixtures


Vintage fixtures are the first way to create an old-fashioned look in the bathroom. Homeowners should choose fixtures that match the era for the overall look. The vintage items do not need to match, but if you are working on a vintage bathroom from the 1950s, all of the vintage fixtures should have been used in bathrooms before 1960.


Vintage fixtures are available from antique shops, businesses that manufacture vintage replicas or businesses that may have new old stock available. Vintage replicas are the easiest type to find and may lower the overall renovation costs. Vintage replica fixtures also provide better energy efficiency than original vintage fixtures. Before installing any vintage fixture, check if it works properly to avoid costly repairs later on.








Mix and Match


Do not be afraid to mix and match the new with the old to make the bathroom functional as well as stylish. There are no set rules to creating a vintage bathroom. This allows the homeowner to use new curtains, tile and paint colors to achieve the overall design. Retro colors and patterns are available at many craft and fabric stores. This can provide essential accents that will bring the room together.


Mixing and matching the new with the old also maintains the functionality of the room. Having shag carpet in the bathroom may fit your vintage style, but it is not necessarily functional in a bathroom.

Tags: businesses that, look vintage, vintage bathroom, vintage fixtures, Vintage fixtures, vintage magazines

Conceal The Crack Where Drywall & Wood Paneling Meet

One of the marks of a professional interior wall repair or paint job is paying attention to detail. It can look sloppy when there are obvious and unsightly cracks and gaps, like when there's a crack where painted drywall meets wood paneling. To conceal most cracks, it will only take some painter's tape and caulking to create a clean, straight line where the drywall and wood paneling meet. This method works on both smooth and textured drywall.


Instructions


1. Wipe or brush down the corner to get rid of dust and grime. Let it dry, so the painter's tape sticks properly.


2. Apply 1-inch painter's tape in a straight line to the wood paneling, from ceiling to floor. Leave a thin reveal of paneling -- about 1/8 of an inch -- showing. Press the tape down firmly with your fingers.


3. Snip the tip off of a tube of paintable silicone caulking to match the size of bead you need. Most tubes of caulk have lines scored on the tip to guide you.


4. Apply a bead of caulking along the masking tape, then immediately smooth it down with your finger or a damp rag. It should cover the exposed edge of the wood paneling.


5. Remove the tape before the caulk dries. Start at the top, and pull it slowly straight down. This will leave you with a perfect straight line that fills the gap. If the painted wall is already white, the caulking won't show up. To paint the wall a different color, wait until the caulking has dried for at least four hours before applying paint.

Tags: wood paneling, painter tape, straight line, when there, with your

Friday, September 20, 2013

Knock Out A Junction Box

Metallic sheathed cables enter a junction box through holes called knockouts.


Metal junction boxes have circular holes covered by metal tabs where wires and conduit may enter the box. The holes and tabs are formed by the metal stamping machine when the box is manufactured. These holes and tabs are called knockouts and, in order to make use of one, you have to remove the metal tab. Threaded adapters with nuts allow you to attach conduit or clamp sheathed cable where it enters the box.


Instructions








1. Place the screwdriver blade against the junction box knockout. The knockout is joined to the metal box in two places by a small tab. Place the screwdriver at the edge of the knockout away from the tabs.








2. Strike the butt of the screwdriver handle lightly with the hammer. The knockout will push out of the hole, but will still be attached.


3. Grasp the knockout with the pliers and twist it off. You may have to bend it back and forth a few times to remove it.


4. Remove the nut from the sheathed cable clamp. Insert the threaded end of the clamp into the knockout hole from the outside of the junction box. Screw the nut clockwise onto the clamp on the inside of the box.


5. Place the blade of the screwdriver against one of the notches on the nut. Use the blade of the screwdriver to push on the nut and tighten it clockwise. Tap the screwdriver handle lightly with the hammer to tighten the nut.

Tags: blade screwdriver, called knockouts, handle lightly, handle lightly with, holes tabs, lightly with

The Proper Spacing For Recessed Lights







Incandescent bulbs can still be used with recessed lighting.


Floor and table lamps enhance living spaces with their decoration and illumination, but they take up space. Wall and ceiling lights save room, but still project fixtures into the room that may run counter to contemporary decor. Recessed lights disappear into a ceiling, saving both visual and actual space. If spaced correctly, they can light an entire room.


Choices


The proper spacing for recessed lights begins with the correct housing size. A 4-inch housing disappears into the ceiling and works for accent lighting. For small areas such as hallways, a 5-inch housing provides more coverage. For high ceilings or large living areas, a 6-inch housing allows better coverage with higher-wattage lamps. As for lighting style, the open style is the most economical choice. Baffles minimize glare, and reflectors increase light output. Eyeballs can direct light to a specific wall or art piece, and lenses can diffuse the light in closets and bathrooms.


General


To determine coverage in square feet with general lighting, the basic rule is to multiply the mounting height in feet by four. For example, a single downlight on a 10-foot high ceiling can cover about 40 square feet of space on the floor. A small 5-by-8 closet would need just one recessed light. A 10-by-20-foot (200 square feet) living room would need five such units. To determine spacing, draw out the coverage on a room plan and put the light in the center of that coverage. For the closet, the light goes into the center of the room. For the larger living room, one goes into the center of the room. The remaining four go in each of the corners, equally spaced at about 3.5 feet away from the closest 10-foot wall and 3.5 feet from the closest 20-foot wall. General lighting typically uses baffle or reflector styles.


Division


Another method is to determine the number of recessed lights you want and divide the space into enough equally spaced parts to accommodate those units. This gives the room a symmetrical look, but may focus the brightest point of the beam away from the center of furniture underneath it. For example, assume you want to place six recessed lights in the same 10-by-20-foot living room. Space every short group of two lights every five feet across the long wall and every long group of three lights every 3.3 feet across the short wall.


Structure


Place recessed lighting that illuminates wall features, such as art, the same distance from the wall, using a minimum of a quarter of the ceiling height. For example, an 8-foot ceiling uses a minimum wall distance of two feet, while a 10-foot ceiling can use 2.5 feet. Another limiting factor is the location of ceiling joists. Recessed lighting must be placed next to or in the spaces between such joists. Corners and exterior walls where the roof comes close to the ceiling may also change placement with obstructions such as roof trusses or air ducts.

Tags: living room, square feet, away from, center room, equally spaced, feet across, from closest

The Proper Height To Hang A Chandelier

Consider the function of a chandelier when choosing its hanging height.


When deciding on the proper height to hang a chandelier you should consider the ceiling height, the diameter of the fixture and the desired function of the light. There are some guidelines, but your decision should be based on what works best for your home.


Dining Room Tables


According to designer Beryn Hammil, most chandeliers should be hung so that the bottom of the fixture is 28-32 inches above the table. The scale of the light should be appropriate for the room and the width of the unit needs to be considered so a person could rise from his seat and not hit his head.








Two-Story Entry Halls


Chandeliers hung in two-story entry halls should never hang below the second floor, according to the Heavenly-Lights lighting store website. Keep in mind that the higher the fixture is hung the smaller it will appear and the less light it will provide the first floor.








Rooms With Standard Ceilings


In a room with a standard-height ceiling, a chandelier should be hung about 7 feet from the floor. This can vary by personal taste, but remember that your guests could be 6 feet tall or taller.

Tags: chandelier should, should hung

Thursday, September 19, 2013

Bricklayers Guide To Making Pizza Ovens

Thick layers of mortar and insulation are the key to creating an effective wood-fired oven. This traps the heat inside the oven's dome and evenly distributes it onto the pizza. Temperatures inside a well-constructed oven will reach up to 700 degrees F and trap the heat for up to five hours.


Insulate the Oven


Sealing heat inside the dome begins with insulation. Use general house-building mortar to stack the first brick layers. Apply a clay-based refractory mortar when a flat firebrick joint is no longer possible. Add lime to the mortar to slow its drying time. This will give you some extra time to perfectly position the bricks. Lay industrial-strength aluminum foil over the brick surfaces to compensate for contraction and expansion. Follow this with a layer of 10-gauge mesh. Create a plywood form around the oven's dome and leave a gap of about three inches. The thicker the cladding, the less time you have to wait for the oven to heat up. Fill the gap with cement and allow it to dry overnight. Follow the cladding with a layer of refractory insulation to prevent heat from escaping through the top and sides of the oven. This light insulation absorbs heat and keeps unsightly cracks from forming.


Apply two layers of stucco using a serrated trowel to give the exterior a rustic bumpy surface. Build a chimney from red brick during the two days it takes for the oven to dry. Set a spark arrester at the top of the chimney.


Oven Dimensions


Most of a pizza oven dome's height is made up of insulation; the cooking area inside the oven is quite small by comparison. This adds to the goal of retaining 75 percent of the heat and allowing 25 percent to escape through the chimney. A 62 to 64 percent ratio between the oven door's height and the interior ceiling of the dome is equally important. For example, a vault height of 16 inches equals a door 10 inches high. The door's width should not allow heat escape, but don't build it so small that oxygen cannot reach the cooking fire. Mix fire clay and sieved sand in water and spread it on the oven's floor. Set refractory bricks into this mixture; don't join them with mortar. Hammer the bricks into place for an even surface.


Oven Test








Start a cooking fire and give the oven at least an hour to build up heat. Sweep out the embers and ashes when the fire is ready and allow the temperature to cool to about 400 degrees. Slide in your pizza and let it cook.

Tags: oven dome, bricks into, cooking fire, heat inside, inside oven, oven This, with layer

Wednesday, September 18, 2013

Get A Shade To Stay On A Floor Lamp

Floor lamp shades come in different shapes and sizes.








Floor lamps come in all shapes and sizes, and lampshades offer an equal array of diversity. While you can mix and match lampshades with lamps, a poor fit can leave you with a wobbly lampshade or a shade that won't stay put. To get your shade to stay on the lamp, first you need to determine why it won't. Unfortunately, sometimes the only way to get the shade to fit right is to exchange it for one that fits better with the floor lamp's socket.


Instructions


1. Compare the size of your new lampshade with the old one. If the new lampshade is too wide or so long that it's hitting the sides of your pole lamp, it will never hang right. In this case, there is nothing to do but return the new lampshade for one that's the same size or closer to the size of the old one. Brown's Lamp Shades recommends that a new shade match the height of the old one, to reduce the chance of problems.


2. Look at the way your lampshade attaches to the lamp. Most lamps use a harp setup, where you fit the shade over the lamp, then screw a finial to hold the two together. Other lamps use an UNO, where the shade sits on the socket, and the bulb screws in above the lampshade. Another type of shade clips onto the light bulb. If you have a lamp that requires an UNO lampshade, you can use a clip-on shade, but not a harp shade. With a harp lamp, you can only use a harp shade. Ensure you have the right type of lampshade, or it will never stay on the lamp.


3. If you have a harp shade that will not stay on, measure the size of your harp and finial. They aren't created in uniform size. You can purchase and install a smaller or larger harp if your new shade is too big for the old one.


4. Purchase a silicone grip strip to help clip-on lampshades stay on without wobbling, advises website Shine.yahoo.com. The silicone "rubberizes" the metal clips so they grip better, and the clips work with both incandescent and CFL bulbs.

Tags: harp shade, shade that, shapes sizes, size your, stay lamp, where shade

Hang Drum Shade Lamps

Drum shade lamps are a modern decor item that is easy to hang.


Drum shades are a style of lamp shade that has the same visual characteristics as a drum. Drum shade lamps are a modernized style of lighting that is common in living rooms, bedrooms, dining rooms and kitchens. Hanging a drum shade lamp is a process that requires proper head room in order to allow mobility around the light in an interior space.


Instructions


1. Pry open one key chain ring with a flathead screwdriver and attach it to the end of one 6-inch chain piece.


2. Pry open the key chain ring again and attach it to one of the top bars on the drum shade lamp.








3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 with the remaining chain and the bar directly across the center from the bar you installed the chain on in step two.


4. Pry open the remaining key chain ring and attach it to the ends of each 6-inch chain to join the two chains together.


5. Pry open the key chain ring in step 4 and attach it to the end link on the 24-inch chain section. Set lamp aside for later use.


6. Climb onto the step ladder in the area where you intend to hang the lamp. Drill a hole through the ceiling using a 3/8 drill bit.


7. Place drywall anchor into the hole and tape into place with a hammer. Screw the hook into the drywall anchor until it is secure and unable to turn any further.


8. Place the end of the 24-inch chain onto the hook to hang the drum shade lamp from the ceiling.

Tags: chain ring, drum shade, drum shade lamp, open chain, open chain ring, shade lamp

Tuesday, September 17, 2013

Country Kitchen Decorating Ideas

White cabinets are ideal for a country kitchen.


The classic country kitchen look has endured through many decades. While the look is timeless, and homeowners can feel comfortable doing a complete renovation in this style, you don't need to spend thousands of dollars to achieve this look. With a few simple changes, almost any kitchen can become a country kitchen.


White or Antiqued Cabinets


Painting cabinets white not only updates them, it brings country into the kitchen. Go with pure white for a pristine look, or add an antique finish. For an antiqued look, choose an off-white paint. When the finished cabinets are dry, dip a cloth in black paint and run it along the edges of the cabinets to make them seem worn with age. Choose simple cabinet hardware, if you wish, to complete the look.


Hanging Plates


There is something about plates hanging on the wall that shouts country kitchen. An ideal place to find perfect plates is the thrift store. Thrift stores carry a wide variety of plates and often have only one or two of a certain style. This is perfect for a country kitchen because you want to decorate the wall with a mix of plates to give a more eclectic look, as if the plates were collected over a long period of time. Display plates with individual wire hangers, or attach a plate shelf to the wall.


Blue Accessories


Blue is a popular color in country decorating. You can find it in small appliances, linens, curtains and other kitchen accessories. Best of all, solid-colored accessories can be reused with a different look should you redecorate the kitchen in the future. A solid color is also more sophisticated than the classic farm animal accessories often used in country kitchen decor. If blue isn't an option, yellow and barn red are strong country colors as well.








Flower Arrangements


Fresh flowers are a must in a country kitchen. These don't have to be expensive store-bought flowers. Wildflowers are a favorite in country kitchens. Even a fancy vase isn't necessary--wildflowers look gorgeous in mason jars. This look is simple, yet adds so much beauty because it allows the wildflowers to be the star of the show. These simple arrangements are especially attractive in kitchen windows and on center islands.

Tags: country kitchen

The History Of Crown Moulding







Moulding can be as ornate as a pilaster or as simple as a quarter-round of wood trim.


Crown moulding is more popular than ever, and has endless uses, from providing detail to a handmade piece of furniture to creating visual breathing space between a wall and a ceiling. Crown moulding has also made its way to the exterior of a house, providing architectural detail to give the home character. The types of crown moulding are numerous, and there are numerous options for where to use it.


Benefits


The use of crown moulding in a home has been a part of the building tradition since the time of the Greeks and Romans. In addition to providing classic architectural details, it can set the tone of a room, from ornate to modern. Crown moulding embellishments are a standard in homes priced in the upper brackets, but moulding use is steadily increasing in lower-priced homes as well because of its great visual appeal.


Ancient History


The ancient Greeks used moulding in buildings to visually divide spaces into smaller units. Their mouldings were based on the classical shape of the ellipse, parabola and hyperbola. The Romans simplified these shapes, basing their mouldings on circles, developing the half-round and quarter-round shapes. Both the Greek and Roman versions of moulding are still in use today and are considereed the building blocks of interior ornamentation.


Early European History


Prior to 1850, all moulding was made on-site by carpenters using hand planes, chisels and gouges. Early examples of dentil moulding, for example, show each little piece of dentil individually carved, sanded and nailed in place. This tedious process of creating visual excitement got a boost in the 1850's, when large planing machines were developed to produce moulding for a mass market. More elaborate and sophisticated styles of moulding were invented and the price became more affordable. Today there are over 140 different styles of moulding available at hardware stores, in materials from wood to polyurethane.


Types of Crown Moulding


Crown moulding today is a generic term for all types of moulding. However, there are different types of moulding with different uses. Crown is the most popular type of cornice moulding---a single-piece moulding that is installed on an angle adjoining a ceiling and wall. The profile of the moulding projects onto both the ceiling and the wall, providing a beautiful transition between them. There are many different classic styles of crown, such as cartouche, dentil, egg and dart and gulloche. Crown can also lend decorative support for horizontal architectural elements, such as built-in bookshelves and niches, and can be used in combination with other mouldings to add detail. A frieze moulding is a horizontal wall moulding that is a wide band, often adorned with an ornamental motif. It usually runs under cornice moulding, one-third to one-half way down the wall. Often, the space from the frieze up to the cornice moulding is painted a different color from the rest of the wall. This type of moulding is common in rooms with high ceilings, as it visually brings the ceiling closer.


Use Crown








Moulding can enhance any room, because it reflects the light, adds dimension, creates visual interest and increases a home's aesthetic appeal. With so many styles and shapes of moulding available today, it's easy to create a one-of-a-kind look for your home. You can use moulding inside the room, on the outside of the home or on furniture to add weight and substance.

Tags: ceiling wall, cornice moulding, creating visual, Crown Moulding, Crown moulding, moulding available, moulding that

Tips On Decorating A Bathroom For Xmas

The bathroom deserves as much holiday decorating as the rest of the house. During the Christmas season, guests will visit the bathroom, along with the other rooms in the house, so decorating the bathroom is an essential part of your household holiday decorations. How far you're willing to go with your bathroom decorations is totally up to you.


Photographs


If the rest of your house is decorated simply, don't go overboard on the bathroom. Even hanging a simple Christmas picture in place of the usual bathroom photograph is an easy alternative for Christmastime. Use photographs of Christmas trees, cities decorated with Christmas decorations or whatever catches your interest. For children's bathrooms, have the kids create their own Christmas artwork, and frame it to hang on the walls.


Linens


Many retailers sell Christmas towels and washcloths specifically designed for Christmas bathroom decorations. If you're feeling crafty, make your own, using plain towels, fabric paint and Christmas stencils. Stick with the popular green and red Christmas colors or other popular Christmas themes such as Santa, reindeer, snowflakes and presents. Some stores sell these towels and washcloths in a set, or you can buy them separately.


Shower curtains and bath mats can be purchased to fit with the holiday theme. If your bathroom has a window, find matching curtains to pull the bathroom linens together.








Essentials


Look for Christmas-themed bathroom decorations, such as soap dishes, toothbrush holders and soap pumps. Like towels and washcloths, these can be found in a set or individually. Buy these decorations in popular Christmas colors or even shaped like Santa or snowmen.


Different decorations are designed for children's bathrooms as well as for adult or common area bathrooms.








Plants & Scents


Buy Christmas plants and flowers to decorate the bathroom, especially if you have a lot of extra counter space. These can include poinsettias, holly or mistletoe.


Purchase candles, wall plug-ins or other popular Christmas or holiday scents. Bathroom sprays can be found in Christmas scents around the holiday season.


Time Frame


Most holiday decorations begin to go up around Thanksgiving time. Putting your decorations up before the first few days before Christmas will allow you to get more use out of the decorations you have purchased or made for the holiday.


By choosing "winter" decorations, such as snowmen or snowflakes, over "Christmas" decorations, you'll be able to keep them up past Christmas. Otherwise, most holiday decorations usually disappear after New Year's Day.

Tags: bathroom decorations, holiday decorations, popular Christmas, towels washcloths, children bathrooms, Christmas colors

Remove Ceiling Light Covers

There are many types of ceiling light covers.


Whether you are doing some remodeling and want to change the ceiling light cover, you have some maintenance to do and want to replace the light bulb, or you have to clean the cover from the inside, removing the ceiling light cover doesn't require professional help. There are many different types of ceiling light covers. But no matter how they are installed, removing them is still simple.


Instructions








1. Get up on a ladder that gets you up high and close enough to the light fixture in question so that you can reach the cover without having to have your arms completely stretched up over your head.


2. Hold the ceiling light cover with one hand and loosen all the screws that are holding the cover in place with the other hand. Most covers have only one metal fastener that can easily be removed with your hands and do not require a screwdriver. Others may require either a Phillips-head screwdriver or a standard, flat screwdriver.


3. Remove the ceiling light cover from the fixture and bring it down slowly so that you can grip it with another hand.


4. Climb down from the ladder clutching the cover with one hand and holding the ladder with your other hand so that you safely maintain three points of contact with the ladder at all times while descending.

Tags: ceiling light cover, light cover, ceiling light, ceiling light, ceiling light covers, cover from, cover with

Monday, September 16, 2013

Remodel Bathrooms With Vintage Colored Bathtubs

When figuring out remodel bathrooms with vintage colored bathtubs, the trick to create an authentic space is bringing in colors and materials that reflect the time period of the room. An entirely opposite feel to the room could be achieved by bringing in contemporary interior design elements for an impressive modern ambiance where the tub is the showcased piece in the room. Whatever your decorating tastes, it is important to research your choices beforehand in terms of availability and budget before setting concrete plans.


Instructions


Traditional


1. Choose the color scheme of the room based on the era of the home. Search out hue themes that were commonly used in the area as a starting point because, as the Antique Home website puts it, "Regardless of decade or style of home, furnishings or funding, homeowners have always had to struggle with the color they painted the wall and match the carpet" or, in this case, the tub.


2. Try to find authentic old tiles to add to your design whenever possible. Amy R. Hughes of This Old House Magazine says that "Today, ceramic tiles are mostly unremarkable squares used to create tidy, washable surfaces in kitchens and baths. But a hundred years ago, tiles were covered with vibrant colors, intricate patterns, and bold figures."


3. Customize the rest of the tiling job to reflect the colors and size of the authentic tiles you have found. This can either be done with standard solid colored tiles or a more pricey option would be to have reproductions custom made to surround the real ones.


4. Pick out a vanity that matches the feel of the space in terms of stain or paint color and engravings or embellishments. Customizing an old piece of furniture, such as an antique dresser or makeup vanity, is another option to add authenticity when remodeling bathrooms with vintage colored bathtubs.


5. Choose fixtures in the same manner, picking out ones that have the lines or curves that reflect the interior design style you are trying to achieve. Many companies offer faucets and knobs, as well as lightening options, that mimic vintage designs, and they can all be found in your local home improvement store or through specialty catalogs.








Contemporary


6. Paint your walls a solid color. Choose one that contrasts with the color of the tub, such as a hue in the same color family that is a little lighter or darker for a monochromatic look, or a crisp white for a modern background.


7. Pick out the tiles the same way, choosing ones in varying hues of the same color for a monochromatic interior design style or plain solid colors such as white for a minimalist feel. Glass tiles add a depth and beauty to the space and are a great element in contemporary rooms.


8. Pick out a sink and vanity with an ultra modern feel. Glass vessels come in a wider array of colors and can even be custom made to match the color of the tub.

Tags: interior design, authentic tiles, custom made, design style, feel Glass, interior design style

The Height Of A Light Over A Dining Table







A chandelier's height can affect a dinner party.


The height of a lighting fixture over a table can make or break a dining room. A chandelier should be low enough to cast gentle light around the room, but not so low that it blocks a diner's view across the table. The standard height is 30 inches between the tabletop and the bottom of the chandelier or pendant. Several factors, however, such as fixture size and ceiling height, can affect placement.


Standard Height


The typical ceiling is 8 feet high. The 30-inch rule between chandelier and tabletop applies here, according to Martha Stewart's Homekeeping Handbook. But for a room with a 9-foot ceiling, the distance should be closer to 33 inches, the handbook recommends. A delicate chandelier can be hung lower than a heavier piece. A heavy chandelier may be hung at 36 inches from the table.


Chandeliers


Home Decorators Collection.com recommends at least 3 feet of space between the tabletop and chandelier. This allows adequate space for centerpieces, candlesticks, flower arrangements and tall serving bowls. Hanging a chandelier higher than 36 inches is acceptable if your ceilings are very high, Home Decorators advises.


Contemporary Pendants


One exception to the 30- or 36-inch rule is the contemporary pendant lamp. These lamps are designed to be low to the table, giving them a modern look, according to Alluminare, a lighting supply distributor. A pendant lamp should be 28 to 32 inches from the tabletop to the bottom the pendant. A larger table, however, can support a pendant hanging higher. A smaller table looks best with a low-hanging pendant. If the lightbulbs are visible at the bottom of the pendant, add a diffuser to cover them.


Mistakes


The height of a lighting fixture over a dining table can affect the mood of the room, according to the New York Times Home & Garden Section. Columnist Tim McKeough writes that a too-high fixture makes a room seem dark, requiring additional lights and eliminating the cozy, intimate feeling. Conversely, a fixture hanging too low can make the room seem crowded. No matter how high the fixture hangs, install a dimmer switch to change the light levels.


Style Considerations


Danielle Galland, interior designer and instructor at Parsons the New School for Design, says the distance between table and fixture can vary, depending on the style of the chandelier, not the ceiling height. The standard height is 30 inches between tabletop and bottom of the pendant lamp, regardless of ceiling height, according to Galland. But a very large fixture, for example, may look better hanging as high as 42 inches above the table. Diners should not be looking at a bulb when they sit down, she advises.

Tags: between tabletop, bottom pendant, ceiling height, pendant lamp, tabletop bottom, between tabletop bottom, chandelier hung

Bathroom Lighting Laws

Bathroom lighting laws are generally based on the standards of the National Electrical Code.


In the bathroom, you want ample lighting so that you can see well enough to get a good shave or properly apply makeup. However, a bathroom's wet features dictate stricter lighting requirements than in other places in your house. If you're planning a home renovation, keep bathroom lighting codes in mind before purchasing expensive fixtures. As with any major electrical project, you should always consult with a professional, as local codes may vary from national standards.








Showers and Baths








The primary concern when planning bathroom wiring is the bath and/or shower enclosure. You cannot hang any kind of lamp or luminary directly above a tub or shower within 8 feet of its maximum fill line. Likewise, you cannot place lamps within 3 feet horizontally from the edge of either a tub or a shower. No element whatsoever of ceiling fans or chain-, cable- or cord-supported lamps is allowed to hang within this space. If any lamps are hung within a bathtub or shower's actual outside dimensions, they must be marked as suitable for damp locations and, if susceptible to shower spray, for wet locations. These devices may be recessed or surface-mounted and switch-operated.


Ground Fault Circuit Interruptors (GFCIs)


All of the outlets within a bathroom must have GFCI protection. With this protection, the current will automatically short out should it detect a grounding interruption. For example, if you accidentally splash water on an electric hair dryer, the electric current would normally travel to "ground" through the conductive water and your fingertips. However, with GFCI protection, the current is automatically interrupted before you can be electrocuted. According to the National Electric Code, all new outlets must be equipped with GFCI; therefore, if you are remodeling an older home, you may need to purchase and install new receptacles. While the GFCI protection offers considerable advantage over unprotected devices, any cord-powered lighting fixtures still should not be used close to the shower or tub.


Further Regulations


In addition to GFCI protection, a bathroom circuit must have at least 20 ampere ratings, with No. 12 wiring. There must be at least one switch-controlled light fixture in the room, and at least one GFCI receptacle within 30 inches from the bathroom sink. This receptacle may be used for plug-in lighting, such as a nightlight, or for other uses. Finally, all bathroom light fixtures must have their electrical wiring completely concealed within the electrical junction box or within the fixture itself.

Tags: GFCI protection, must have, protection current, with GFCI, within feet

Friday, September 13, 2013

Replace A Fluorescent Fixture With Recessed Lights

Replace large fluorescent light fixtures with modern-looking recessed lights. Fluorescent fixtures do give off a lot of light, but they are large and can make the living space feel less homey. They take up an entire ceiling tile space--either 2-foot-by-2-foot or 2-foot-by-4-foot. Recessed lighting fixtures are cut into the existing ceiling tile and general sizes are 4-inch, 5-inch and 6-inch. Replacing the lighting will not involve wiring in new circuits as all you have to do is disconnect the wiring from the fluorescent fixture and reconnect it into the recessed light fixture.


Instructions


1. Turn off power to the lighting circuit in your circuit breaker panel. Working on live circuits can be dangerous, even deadly.


2. Climb up your ladder to gain access above the light in an adjacent ceiling tile space. Open up the junction box on or near the fluorescent light fixture.


3. Disconnect the wiring to the fluorescent light fixture. Generally all you have to do is unscrew the wire nuts and untwist the wiring.


4. Lift up on the fluorescent light fixture from below, tilt it slightly and lower it through the ceiling grid.


5. Measure the diameter of the recessed light. Cut out a circle on your replacement ceiling tile 1/16 to 1/8 inch larger than the diameter of your recessed light.


6. Lift the ceiling tile up and set it in place in the ceiling grid. Take the recessed light into the ceiling space and set it over the cut-out hole. Extend the recessed light's arms and clip them over the ceiling grid.


7. Connect the lighting circuit's wiring into your recessed light. Extend the existing electrical cable into the junction box on the recessed light and secure with an electrical connector. Twist the black wires together and screw on a wire nut. Repeat for the white and ground wires.


8. Install the recessed light's trim ring. This trim ring will finish off where the light meets the ceiling tile and provide a finished, clean look. Installation may vary depending on light. Some just push up into the recessed light from below while others have spring hooks that hook on to tabs inside the fixture.


9. Screw in the correct wattage light bulb as indicated by your recessed light and restore power to the circuit.

Tags: recessed light, ceiling tile, fluorescent light, light fixture, ceiling grid

The Best Way To Paint A Ceiling Tile Grid

The Best Way to Paint a Ceiling Tile Grid


Suspended ceilings are a common fixture in homes and offices. These ceilings are installed easily and are durable, sometimes so durable that decorating trends change and leave older ceilings behind. The metal grid can be repainted, and the tiles can be painted or replaced. Painting a ceiling grid is a bit trickier than painting a wall, but it's an easy afternoon project.


Preparation


Even if you plan to paint the ceiling tiles themselves, it's best to tackle each job separately. The paint required to cover the metal grid would deaden the acoustical sound absorption properties of the tiles. Completely mask the tiles and light fixtures with tape and newspaper, covering up to the edge of the tile hidden by the grid, or simply remove the tiles. While almost all tiles in your ceiling will be interchangeable, mark oddly shaped tiles on the back so they'll be easy to replace. If the ceiling grid has been exposed to smoke, cooking or excessive dust, use a degreaser like trisodium phosphate and hot water to clean the metal. Choose a system to make sure each piece of grid has been cleaned, or the paint will adhere unevenly.


Priming








Remove any rust spots with high-grit sandpaper. Previously painted metal should be scuffed with steel wool so the paint will adhere. Unpainted metal requires a metal primer to keep your final coat from flaking and to prevent oxidation. Don't use textured or rust-prevention primers. Apply the primer with a spray can or a small, high-quality brush. If spraying, mask the walls with newspaper to at least four feet from the ceiling, and put down drop cloths to catch overspray. Let the primer dry according to the manufacturer's instructions, typically at least four hours.


Painting


There are several ways to apply paint, and the best for you will depend on your situation. For small ceilings, a ladder and a small pure China bristle brush are all you need. For larger ceilings, a spray can is faster, though should not be used if excess paint will harm the ceiling the grid is suspended from. In this case, or for especially high ceilings, use a trim roller with a quarter-inch nap and an extension pole. Use a semi-gloss latex or oil paint on most ceilings, though in a home theater use a flat paint to avoid distracting reflections. Paint the outside edge of the grid with a brush and then spray or roll the rest of the ceiling. Let the paint dry and apply a second coat if the coverage seems uneven. Reinstall the ceiling tiles.

Tags: ceiling grid, paint will, Best Paint, Best Paint Ceiling, Ceiling Tile, Ceiling Tile Grid

Thursday, September 12, 2013

The Best Wood Trim To Use In A Modern Home







Modern kitchens need wood trim for an accent.


A modern home has a style all its own, one that is enhanced by the finishing touches you choose. One is the wood trim. There are many types of new wood trim pieces that look best in modern homes. Each has a distinct look that will complement or contrast the interior of the house, depending on what kind of statement you want to make.


Alternative Wood Trim


Many modern homes have an alternative style. The design is non-traditional and interiors have different colors. So an alternative trim will complement the theme. There are several choices for alternative trims, including bamboo, teak and exotic woods. These woods are imported from South America, Africa or Europe. Snakewood is one option. With a grain that mimics snake skin patterns, it offers a unique style that may be perfect for the ultra-modern home. The fact that the wood is imported adds to the appeal for the modern homeowner.


When choosing an alternative wood trim, match the grain pattern to the interior. It should reflect the contrasts in the home's color or relate to the home's overall theme. An s-shaped home is perfect for snake wood trim, for instance.


Translucent Wood Trim


Another new idea is translucent woods. These are crafted by Luminoso, which makes contemporary home materials. The translucent wood trim is used on everything from furniture to moldings and panels. It has a see-through look that complements qualities in a modern home. This trim is also decorative and used for creating partition panels. It adds a unique style that is very forward-thinking and progressive. Various shades of the material are installed to make contrasting lines or images.


Natural and Faux Wood Trim


Another option is natural wood trim. Any species of wood in a natural grain adds a rustic, comfortable touch to a home. Maple, oak or pine offer a distinct accent to the living room, bedroom or kitchen. Stained a light or dark color, the wood brings out the character in your modern design.


Faux wood trims are a cost-effective solution for large homes. The versatility in these trims allows homeowners to select just the right color and pattern for their rooms without incurring a large cost. Simulated wood grains are very realistic as well, and it is very hard to tell the difference between the two. Next to a large glass window, or in a minimalist kitchen, the addition of wood adds a soft accent which is both traditional and modern at once.

Tags: style that, look that, modern home, modern homes, Trim Another, unique style, unique style that

Wednesday, September 11, 2013

Remodel A Mobile Home Bathroom







Anyone with a little drive and motivation can remodel a mobile home bathroom. Removing all the old bathroom fixtures and replacing the flooring gives an old mobile home bathroom a complete overhaul. You can easily do this over the weekend.


Instructions


1. Remove all the fixtures from the mobile home bathroom. This includes the toilet, bathtub, sink and vanity as well as all faucets. Toss what you plan on replacing and set aside what you will use again.


2. Tear up the bathroom flooring. Examine the floor underneath for any holes or areas that are sinking. Older mobile home floors tend to warp.


3. Level out the bathroom floor. Mix up mortar according to the instructions for your specific brand. Pour the mortar on the floor, allowing it to flow towards the slope. It will level out creating an even base to lay your flooring.


4. Lay the new flooring in your bathroom. With older mobile homes, use linoleum for your flooring as it is flexible and less likely to crack with any shaking or settling of the mobile home. Tile flooring will break easily.








5. Replace any cracked or damaged plumbing. You will need to crawl underneath your mobile home to access these pipes. If the pipes appear old or in less than perfect condition replace them to prevent any water damage.


6. Install the toilet, bathtub, vanity and sink. Make sure to caulk the fixtures around the edges to prevent leakage and possible water damage to the bathroom floor.

Tags: mobile home, home bathroom, mobile home bathroom, bathroom floor, mobile home, toilet bathtub, water damage

The Best Way To Remove Ceiling Tile

Ceiling tile may be made from different materials and may be adhered using different methods. Nonetheless, there are general characteristics of ceiling tiles that will assist you in learning the best method of removing ceiling tile.


Adhering Ceiling Tile


Because ceiling tile can exist in varying sizes and weights, the installation may require different types of glue that have differing strengths. Typically, craftsmen use a ceramic tile glue to ensure that the ceiling tile will not fall to the floor. If the ceiling tile is lighter, craftsmen will use "furring strips," which are strips of wood on which tile can stapled or clipped. Finally, craftsmen use caulking to fill in the small gaps between the tiles; this is more common when the tile is heavier.


Investigation and Preparation


Depending on your reasons for removing the ceiling tile, whether it be to simply update your home's decor or to remove discoloration on the tile, you need to determine how the ceiling tiles are attached. Use a utility knife to "score" in between the tiles and remove a single tile to inspect. Additionally, your inspection may inform you about the possible roof leaks that may be causing discoloration in the ceiling tiles. This should be repaired before you replace any ceiling tiles.


Removal


The best means of removing tile that has a strong adhesive is by starting from one corner and working outward. As noted above, use the utility knife to score in between the tiles. This is especially important if there is caulking between the tiles. Next, use a putty knife to separate the glue from the back of the ceiling tile. The putty knife is most effective when dealing with tiles that have been attached to a furring strip. Additionally, you can use pliers to remove the existing staples from the furring strip. For stronger adhesives, use a small pry bar or a "claw hammer" to remove the old tiles. Be careful not to damage the material underneath the tiles. Work slowly, and make sure to slide the pry bar in as far as possible under the tile to achieve maximum torque.


Cleaning








If you plan to replace the tiles once you have removed them, you should use a glue solvent to remove the excess glue on the ceiling. This will ensure that the next set of ceiling tiles will adhere on to the ceiling with ease. Additionally, it will ensure that you have a smooth and level surface.

Tags: ceiling tiles, between tiles, ceiling tile, ensure that, that have

Diy Glueon Acoustic Ceiling Panels

Acoustic ceiling panels are square tiles consisting of various materials and designs that serve to absorb sound in a room. These tiles are most often located in noisy public areas and office buildings, but work well in residential homes as well. While some acoustic panels have a support structure, others simply glue to the ceiling. Gluing the ceiling panels on yourself is not complex, but is awkward since you must work at ceiling height.


Instructions


1. Position a ladder in one corner of the room where you will start installing the acoustic ceiling panels.


2. Cut off a 1/4-inch section from the end of a tube of acoustical surfaces adhesive. Insert the tube into a caulking gun to aid in application.


3. Turn one of the acoustic ceiling panels over, with the finished side facing down. Examine the back of the panel for an arrow, which indicates the panel has a pattern on it. If arrows are present, ensure they all point in the same direction when you install the panels.


4. Squeeze the trigger of the caulking gun to apply a 1/4-inch-wide bead of caulk around the perimeter of the panel. Create an "X" of adhesive in the center of the panel.


5. Pick up the panel carefully and carry it up the ladder. Position the panel, glue side up, in the corner of the ceiling and press it firmly with your hands to secure the adhesive to the ceiling. Hold the panel in place for 20 to 30 seconds.


6. Climb back down the ladder and apply adhesive to another ceiling panel. Climb back up the ladder, press the second panel up to the ceiling and hold it in place until it is secure.


7. Continue installing all of the remaining ceiling panels in the same way until you reach the last row.


8. Hold another ceiling panel up in the last open space to see if it fits without requiring cutting. If cutting is required, measure the installation area with a tape measure and transfer the measurement onto the back of the ceiling panel using a pencil. Cut along the pencil line using a utility knife or a table saw.

Tags: ceiling panels, ceiling panel, acoustic ceiling panels, another ceiling, another ceiling panel, Climb back

Tuesday, September 10, 2013

The Best Way To Cut A Drop Ceiling Grid

A drop ceiling, or a false ceiling, is considered a secondary ceiling and hung underneath the structural ceiling. It consists of tiles that are placed onto suspended metal grid-work, which is hung from wires attached to the structural ceiling.


Preparation


Using measuring tape, get the exact length and width of the room where the ceiling will be installed. Draw the exact dimensions to scale on standard graph paper. Multiply the length and width together to calculate how many square feet you need to cover.








Drop ceiling tiles are primarily available in two sizes: 2-feet by 2-feet, or 2-feet by 4-feet. After you decide on a preferred tile, you can purchase the appropriate amount of tile, hanging brackets and grid-work based on your previous calculations of square footage. Use the graph paper to draw a test layout to confirm that you are purchasing the correct quantity of ceiling tiles.


Installation


A drop ceiling should be hung about 4 inches from the ceiling joists, this will provide enough space to angle the tiles into place. Use a 360-degree laser level to mark a line that circles the entire room 4 inches below the existing ceiling joists. The laser level will ensure that your ceiling is perfectly level, even if the structural ceiling is not.








Install the perimeter hanging brackets around the walls of the entire room, closely following the level lines you marked.


Hang the main runners from the ceiling joists at a distance of 4 feet apart using 14-gauge wire connected to eye bolts screwed into the joists. They should span the entire room running perpendicular to the joists, at the exact height of the perimeter hanging brackets on the walls.


Hang cross-runners perpendicular to the main runners every 2 feet, securing them with ties at every intersection with the main runners.


The tiles are now ready to be lifted and dropped into place. Use a utility knife to trim the edges of any ceiling tiles that are too large.

Tags: ceiling joists, ceiling tiles, entire room, hanging brackets, main runners