Make A Ceiling Grid

Suspended ceilings work well in virtually any room of a house, but are especially common in a basement remodel. The first step in hanging a suspended ceiling is making the ceiling grid. This includes planning the layout and hanging the grid bars. Take your time to ensure the grid is level from front to back and from side to side. A lopsided grid gives the suspended ceiling a wavy appearance.

Instructions

1. Measure the room's length, using a tape measure. Divide this measurement by the length of the ceiling tile you will use (either 24 inches or 48 inches). More than likely you will be left with a few extra inches that will result in smaller grid openings and cut tile. Position these smaller sections along the room's perimeter.

2. Repeat Step 1, using the room's width instead of length. Draw a rough sketch of what the ceiling grid will look like on a piece of paper.

3. Measure 4 inches down the wall from the ceiling joists and make a mark. Set up a laser level in the middle of the room. Aim the laser at the mark so it shoots all the way around the room, 4 inches below the ceiling joists.

4. Run a stud finder along the laser line. Mark each stud you find. Hold a piece of perimeter molding against one wall. If necessary, cut the perimeter molding with tin snips to fit from wall to wall. Line up the perimeter molding's top edge with the laser line. Hammer 6d nails through the molding and into the wall studs you located.

5. Butt the perimeter moldings' edges together at inside corners, with one of the perimeter moldings tight in the corner. Keep both perimeter moldings' top edges lined up with the laser line. At the outside corners, miter the two perimeter moldings' ends to a 45-degree angle so they butt up together to form a 90-degree angle around the corner.

6. Run a chalk line perpendicular with the ceiling joists. Position the chalk line where the first grid bar will go according to the plans you determined in Step 1. Snap the chalk line against the ceiling joists. Measure along the ceiling, from the first chalk line to the next grid bar, and snap a second chalk line. Continue along the ceiling until you mark each grid bar location.

7. Drill a 1/8-inch pilot hole through the first ceiling joist marked with the first chalk line. Screw a small eyebolt into the pilot hole. Move down three ceiling joists and make a second pilot hole for a second small eyebolt. Work your way along the first chalk line, placing an eyebolt in every third ceiling joist. Then, move to the second chalk line. Repeat until you have screwed eyebolts into every third ceiling joist for every chalk line.

8. Cut a 10-inch piece of hanger wire for each eyebolt. Insert 3 inches of a piece of hanger wire into the first eyebolt. Bend the wire down and twist it around itself three times. Repeat with each eyebolt.

9. Aim a laser level at the first row of hanger wires. Set the laser level so it hits the perimeter molding's bottom edge. Bend each wire into an L shape where the laser hits it. Repeat with each remaining row of hanger wires.

10. Position a runner perpendicular with the ceiling joists. Set each end on the perimeter molding. Line it up underneath the first snapped chalk line. Insert the hanger wires' bend ends through the holes in the runner's top edge. Bend the wires up and around themselves to help support the runner. Repeat this step with a runner under each chalk line. If necessary, snap two runners together to form a longer runner, or cut the runners with a tin snips to form shorter runners.

11. Snap cross tees between the runners. Space the cross tees 24 inches apart. If you have smaller grid openings along the room's perimeter, cut the cross tee to the opening's gap. Snap the uncut end into the runner and rest the cut end on the perimeter molding.

Tags: chalk line, ceiling joists, perimeter molding, perimeter moldings, ceiling joist, first chalk

Spray Paint Light Fixtures

Spray painting a fixture can give a room a new look.

Spray painting a light fixture is an inexpensive way to give the fixture a totally new look, and you can complete the project in one day. It's important to use a spray-on primer first, to give the spray paint coat an even look and ensure that it's long lasting. Select a clear, mild day without much wind for your spray painting project, so the spray paint can dry properly.

Instructions

1. Remove the light fixture from the wall, ceiling, or whatever spot in which you have it hanging. Remove any shades, bulbs, or other detachable pieces that you won't be painting.

2. Lay a piece of cardboard or drop cloth over your outdoor work area. Set the light fixture on the drop cloth so you can reach all parts of the fixture with the spray paint.

3. Wipe the fixture down with a damp cloth to remove any dirt or dust. Let it dry for 15 minutes. Apply masking tape over the light bulb sockets, and over any other part of the fixture you do not want painted.

4. Begin spraying on the primer. Shake the can and hold it 8 inches from the fixture's surface. Move the can slowly back and forth over the whole fixture, applying an even layer of primer. Let the primer dry according to the directions on the can, then apply another light coat if you can still see through the primer. Let that coat dry as well.

5. Apply the spray paint in the color of your choice in the same way you applied the primer. Apply two to three light coats to achieve the desired color saturation, instead of one heavy coat that may run. Let the coats dry between applications.

6. Remove the masking tape, replace the detachable parts, and reinstall the light fixture.

Tags: light fixture, spray paint, drop cloth, masking tape, Spray painting

Fix A Sagging Ceiling

Leaky toilets, bathtubs and sinks on upper levels often time result in water damaged ceilings that sag. As long as the drywall is completely dry and mold free, repairing saggy ceilings is a non-invasive process. A professional should repair ceilings with extensive water damage and mold.

Instructions

1. Protect surrounding surfaces and floors with a large tarp or plastic to keep them free of dust, putty and paint.

2. Remove paint and texturing from the ceiling by sanding the damaged section with a mesh sander.

3. Reattach the sagging ceiling to the floor joists by pushing up on the drywall and nailing it in place. Follow the seam to reattach the drywall.

4. Paint the ceiling with and oil based primer to prevent the water stains from coming through the newly repaired and painted area. Let the primer dry completely before moving on.

5. Make a thin mixture of drywall compound. Roll the compound onto the repaired portion of the ceiling with a paint roller.

6. Texture the ceiling to blend with the surrounding areas by using a stomping brush. Create the ceiling texture while the drywall compound is still moist but not wet.

7. Cover over the repaired surface with a ceiling paint that matches the rest of the ceiling. Paint the entire ceiling when the old paint is dingy and will not match up to a new paint color.

Tags: ceiling with, drywall compound

Installing Vanity Cabinet Plumbing

Installing Vanity Cabinet Plumbing

Having a Look

Most people do not want to tackle plumbing after looking under their sink. The bathroom can be especially frightening because of the close quarters. Installing vanity cabinet plumbing, like most other aspects of construction is a step-by-step process. When it is viewed as a process, it begins to look like something a homeowner might want to do. Look at it from the floor up to the sink. The waterlines either are coming out of the wall or up through the floor. Then, there are shut-off valves installed onto which the waterlines are connected. Following them up to under side of the sink reveals they are connected to the sink faucet. The same principle applies with the drain. It can be followed up from the floor or wall to the under side of the sink bowl.

Thinking it Through

Starting back at the shut-off valves, their purpose becomes clear. They stop the flow of water to the waterlines so repairs can be done. Looking where the waterline connects to the shut-off valve reveals a nut on the end of a line that can be removed with a wrench. When it is removed, there is a washer inside the nut to help seal the connection and prevents leaks. Up at the underside of the faucet there is another nut that has a washer in it as well. Next, notice the attention that was given to the drainpipes. They are firmly connected at the bottom of the sink bowl by a large PVC nut. Inside that nut is a washer that seals the connection to prevent leaks. Coming down the drainpipe on what is called the tailpiece, there is another nut and washer connecting the tailpiece to the top side of the "P" trap. This is known as a "P" trap because it traps foreign objects from proceeding into the main drainpipe and causing a blockage. The "P" trap dips down and up again and connects to the last piece of the vanity cabinet plumbing that goes into the wall. All of the connections have washers to prevent leaks.

What About the Cabinet?

The vanity cabinet itself is custom fitted for the plumbing in each bathroom. For plumbing that comes up through the floor, measurements are taken from the back wall and from one sidewall to determine where the holes will be drilled to slip the vanity cabinet over the plumbing. In some cases, the shut-off valves are below the bottom shelf. When this happens, a number of options are open to the installer. Some will cut a square or rectangle out of the bottom of the vanity cabinet and build a bottomless box that will slip inside the hole to prevent objects from falling underneath the vanity cabinet. Vanity cabinet plumbing that comes out of the wall is much easier to install a cabinet around than when the plumbing comes through the floor.

Tags: vanity cabinet, cabinet plumbing, plumbing that, shut-off valves, through floor, cabinet plumbing that, comes through

Contemporary Bath Ideas

More storage is a must in the contemporary bathroom.

Whether you are remodeling or building new, the limited space found in most bathrooms can cause a design and decorating dilemma. Contemporary styles can help to answer some concerns you might have regarding best utilize the space yet remain current. With some careful planning and serious consideration of fixtures and facilities, any bathroom can be made into a sleek, contemporary room.

Facilities

Basin sinks can easily give a contemporary look to any bathroom.

Space and placement are huge factors in deciding the type of facilities you will be placing in your contemporary bathroom. While bathtubs are nice, sometimes the space needed for a contemporary stand-alone bath is not available. Consider carefully whether you need a tub, or if a shower alone is better suited to your needs. A shower stall, with glass doors and a sleek look, can become a focal point in the room. A vanity with glass basins placed on top for sinks is also a great contemporary look; however, the space required may dictate a pedestal-style sink instead.

Color

Rich colors and sleek lines lend a contemporary feel to a bathroom.

Contemporary bathrooms are awash with color. No longer the stark white of years past, the styles and designs popular today run from rich earthy tones to vibrant jewel tones. Earth tones can give a spa-like atmosphere to most bathrooms no matter the size, while darker tones and shiny black may cause the room to feel smaller but will work well when combined with more earthy tones or in extra-large spaces. Consider using a splash of color by adding wallpaper or a geometric stencil to one wall. This simple addition will break up a solid-color bathroom, giving you the option of keeping a light wall color but adding a touch of contemporary "wow" to the space.

Fixture color and style also contribute to the contemporary feel. Look for sleek lines and a color that works well with the wall and tile color theme you are using. Shiny chrome gives an ultra-modern look to the room, while a burnished copper or antique gold can give warmth to the room while still offering clean shapes and lines. Chrome fixtures with shiny jewel-tone accent tiles and a warm earth-tone gold can give a rich, luxurious feel while maintaining the contemporary look.

Storage

Storage is always an important consideration for any room. This is especially true of the bathroom. Because of limited space, storage is usually at a premium. Look for new ways of adding shelving or cabinetry to the room. A simple set of bookshelves placed between mirrors on a duo-vanity adds a great amount of storage with just a small change. Paint the shelves to match the room or to add a jolt of high-gloss color.

Cabinetry under a basin sink also gives extra storage space that is not available with a standard sink or pedestal. Fitted shelves that are suspended under a counter can also provide a sleek modern look to your storage and can be done in either a neutral color or a rich dark tone to add a contemporary edge.

Tags: contemporary look, color adding, contemporary bathroom, contemporary feel, earthy tones, gold give, limited space

Install A Knotty Pine Tongueandgroove Paneling On A Ceiling

Knotty pine is a classic old style that lends a rustic, country look to any room. It comes in long, narrow panels, like planks, that can be linked together via tongue-and-groove edging. If you decide to do a ceiling in knotty pine, make sure you are using ceiling boards and not wallboards, as they are not the same. It's important that the panels are secured directly to ceiling joists and not just to plaster.

Instructions

1. Use your electronic stud finder to locate each joist in the ceiling. Mark each of them with your pencil and level, drawing parallel lines across the ceiling.

2. Measure the starting edge of the ceiling, perpendicular to the joists. Transfer the measurement to a ceiling board. Use a miter saw to cut the board to that length.

3. Hold the board up to the ceiling, so the grooved edge faces the wall. Set it with a half-inch of space between the board and the wall.

4. Nail the board in place with your trim nailer, shooting the nails straight up through the board at each marked joist. Use two nails per joist.

5. Measure for the next board and cut it. Set the grooved side of the new board to the tongue of the previously hung board. Lock them snugly together. Secure the second board by shooting nails into each joist at an upward angle through the edge of the board.

6. Repeat the process to hang each board, working your way across the ceiling. Cut the final board lengthwise to fit along the ending wall with a quarter-inch space left there.

7. Measure, cut and hang ceiling trim around the perimeter of the ceiling, covering the gaps.

Tags: across ceiling, each joist, shooting nails, wall with, with your

Can Pex Be Attached To Wood Beams In Ceilings

PEX pipes can be attached to a variety of surfaces.

PEX, or cross-linked polyethylene, is a type of plastic plumbing pipe that is used in a wide variety of commercial and residential applications. Like all other plumbing pipes, PEX can be secured to wall beams in ceilings during installation. Using pipe clamps, PEX can be securely mounted to support beams and other parts of the ceiling's wooden frame as needed.

About PEX Pipes

PEX pipes are rated for potable drinking water, as well as temperatures up to 200 degrees Fahrenheit. This makes PEX a versatile material for most plumbing applications. PEX is made through an injection molding process that results in a durable pipe that resists corrosion. PEX can be installed in walls, underground or in ceilings. When installing PEX in ceilings, it's important to mount them in place using pipe clamp or hanging straps. Mounting your PEX pipes will ensure they do not move when pressurized, which can create a banging noise in the ceiling or wall.

Mounting PEX Pipes

Mounting PEX requires the use of either clamps or hanging straps. Pipe clamps are the simplest option in most cases. Place the clamp around the body of the pipe with the two flat ends against the ceiling joist or beam. Nail the clamp into place through the two holes in either side of the flat end of the clamps. Hanging straps come in rolls and consist of strips of thin-gauge copper or plastic with holes punched through the center of the strip. Cut off about 3 inches of the strip, wrap it around the pipe and nail either side into the beam.

Types of Pipe Clamps

Pipe clamps are available in copper, plastic and galvanized steel. In most cases, it's best to use the type of clamp that matches the material of the pipe. For example, copper pipes should be mounted using copper pipe clamps. For PEX, a plastic material, plastic clamps work best as they will not cut into the side of the pipe. Using a material such as copper or galvanized steel with a PEX pipe may damage the pipe over time.

Mounting Locations

PEX is typically mounted flush against any wooden surface, such as a ceiling beam. However, if the beam site is perpendicular to the direction that you want to run the pipe, if may not be feasible to run the pipe against the beam. In this case, consider using a drill with a 2-inch hole saw attachment to bore a path through the ceiling beam for the pipe. This process results in a straight path for the pipe, which can help bring down the cost of materials by reducing wasted pipe. PEX that is pushed through holes in ceiling beams should still be secured using pipe clamps when possible.

Tags: pipe that, ceiling beam, copper plastic, either side, galvanized steel, most cases, through holes

Make Wood Cornice Moldings With Router

Cornice molding creates a decorative transition between the wall and the ceiling. Wood cornice molding can be made from dimensional lumber and routed on a router table. There are many cornice molding router bits on the market to suite any room's design aesthetic, from simple to ornate. The mitered edges that allow the molding to sit at an angle between the wall and the ceiling also can be cut on a router table, using a molding edge cutter. With a little work, you can make a completely custom molding treatment for your room.

Instructions

1. Calculate the dimensions of the room to determine the number of boards you will need. Plan to make extra molding in case you make a mistake or need a replacement piece later on.

2. Set up the router table with the cornice molding bit. Adjust the depth of the bit so it will rout the complete profile of the bit onto the 3-inch-wide side of the boards. Adjust the router table's fence so that it will rout the complete profile into the 3-inch-wide side of the boards. The distance from the fence to the bearing on the bit should equal the 1-inch thickness of the board.

3. Turn on the router. Run the boards through the router with one 3-by-96-inch side flat against the fence and one 1-by-96-inch side flat against the router table. This will rout the decorative profile onto the 3-by-96-inch side of the board. Turn off the router.

4. Remove the cornice molding bit. Insert the molding angle bit. Adjust the height so it will cut off an angle on the edge of the 1-inch thickness of the boards. Position the board so the router will cut the angle on the back side of the decorative cornice molding profile. Adjust the fence so the 3-inch-wide side can be run flat against the surface of the router table. The bearing on the bit should ride on the 1-inch-thick side.

5. Run the boards through the router table with the decorative cornice molding profile facing up. Rout each 1-inch side of the boards so there is an angle on both edges of the 3-inch-wide side that is opposite the side with the molding profile.

6. Sand the cornice molding boards, using a progression of medium and fine-grit sandpaper until the molding is smooth.

Tags: cornice molding, router table, 3-inch-wide side, side boards, flat against, molding profile, side flat

Uses For Ceiling Tile

Ceilings are utilitarian, but they also can be decorative. New materials and techniques are reviving interest in ceiling decoration, using tiles. Decorative ceilings were popular in the late 1800s and early 1900s, mainly using exotic plaster techniques or "tin" tiles, steel sheets with a covering of tin. Those went out of fashion, mainly because of labor costs, but today those styles can be replicated economically with tiles.

Fibrous Tiles

The most common ceiling tiles are fibrous, made of wood or other fibers tightly compressed with a binder into a semi-rigid panel. These come in sizes from 12 by 12 inches up. You can install them in "drop" ceilings, suspend them in a metal grid hung from the ceiling, or glue them to a smooth ceiling. Some are finished for acoustical or sound-dampening purposes. They are available in a variety of surfaces, to resemble plaster or other finishes.

Tin Tiles Are Back

Old "tin" tiles are back in fashion. These are thin steel plates with a tin coating, and they come embossed in various patterns. They are fastened with adhesives. These tin tiles are an effective fire retardant and also are suitable in areas of high humidity, such as bathrooms and kitchens. Today's versions are finished with a powder-coated surface that is attractive, durable and long-lasting.

Fake the Tin

Alternatives to real tin tiles are versions made of aluminum or vinyl. Both are embossed and finished so they are virtually indistinguishable from the real thing. Both materials come in the same large squares typical of the original tin ceiling tiles. You install them with adhesives. They are available in various hues, from the old tin color, to bronzes and coppers.

Exotic Styles

You can vary ceiling tiles with paint and light. You can paint most fibrous panels, although this is not recommended with acoustic ceilings. Some aluminum tiles come prepared for paint; you can finish them in a solid color or paint them with patterns or designs, some replicating sky and clouds or trees. Vary suspended tiles with light panels using fluorescent or light-emitting diode (LED) bulbs; some manufacturers offer versions with tiny LEDs embedded in them to give a sort of starry sky effect.

Tags: ceiling tiles, install them, them with, They available, tiles with, with adhesives

Straighten A Warped Piece Of Wood

Warped boards and panels are considered by many do-it-yourselfers and even experienced carpenters to be useless. While the process of restoring these pieces of wood isn't something that everyone has time for, you shouldn't consider a warped board to be a lost cause. In fact, all you really have to do is wait for the right moment, and you can help the board straighten itself. Read on below to learn about a time honored solution for all kinds of warped wood.

Instructions

1. Store the warped wood in a dry, secure place until the next hot, sunny and clear day. Make sure that the wood is as dry as possible before putting it into storage. If there is any risk of moisture or leaking in the place where you store it, check on the wood during times of heavy rainfall or high humidity. Exposing the board to more moisture will just worsen the warp.

2. Water a section of lawn at least as big as the board or panel. Do this in mid-morning of a hot and sunny day.

3. Lay the wood down on the watered lawn with the concave side facing down. The concave side is the side that is "caved" in. Severely warped boards may only touch the grass on the very ends when laid down this way.

4. Leave the wood out on the lawn all day. When the sun starts to set and the heat of the day has passed, bring the board into a garage or basement.

5. Dry off the wood with an old towel. The warping should either be completely corrected or improved. If it's still a little warped, repeat this procedure at the next opportunity. In either case, you should lay the board flat on a dry indoor floor for 24 hours. Lay out the board with the concave (or, hopefully, formerly concave) side down.

Tags: concave side, warped wood, with concave

Wire A Double Socket Lamp

Rewiring a lamp is a money-saving task.

Lamps may look complicated but they are actually simple in design. The lamp cord plugs into the wall, runs up to the body of the lamp, attaches to the lamp socket and once the power is turned on, the electricity flows through the cord and lights the light bulb. According to Handy Man Club of America, it is these items---the plugs, the socket and the cords---that commonly fail in a lamp, and knowing basic lamp repair is a money-saving skill.

Instructions

1. Unplug the lamp. Remove the lamp shade and lamp harp from the lamp. The lamp harp removes by squeezing the two sides of the harp toward the center of the lamp. Pull the harp up and out of the lamp harp base. Move the lamp to a sturdy work surface.

2. Remove the bottom of the lamp base. Depending on the manufacturer of the lamp, the bottom is attached with screws, covered with felt or heavy paper or snaps on like a lid onto a butter container. If the bottom is covered with felt or heavy paper, carefully peel it off at the base to replace it later.

3. Remove the exterior socket sleeve off both the sockets. Grasp the sleeve and pull using a slight side-to-side motion, release the sleeve from the socket base, exposing the wiring to the interior socket.

4. Loosen the copper and silver screws located on the sides of each interior socket and remove the lamp wires from beneath the screws. Discard the old interior socket.

5. Pull new lamp cord into the lamp by taping a length of new lamp cord to each set of original lamp cords at the socket location. As you pull the original lamp cords from the bottom of the lamp, you are replacing them with new lamp cords. Leave 6 inches of new lamp wire exposed at the socket.

6. Strip the lamp wires at the socket. Use a utility knife to separate the lamp wires by slicing through the membrane that connects to two lamp wires together. Use wire cutter/strippers to strip a 1/2 inch of insulation off each wire. Be careful not to damage the stranded copper wires inside the insulation when stripping the insulation from the wires.

7. Identify the hot wire and the neutral wire of the lamp cord by feeling the lamp cords with your fingers. One wire of the lamp cord feels smooth and is the hot wire. The side of the cord that feels as if it has ridges is the neutral side. To help in completing the wiring of the lamp, wrap a small piece of black electrical tape around each smooth wire to identify the hot wire.

8. Wire the new interior socket by first wrapping the smooth wires around the copper screws on both of the new interior sockets and tighten the screws. Wrap the ridged neutral wires around the silver screws on both interior sockets and tighten the screws. Replace the socket sleeves onto the sockets by pushing them firmly into place.

9. Remove the old lamp plug and wire. Disconnect the wire connectors holding all the wiring together inside the base of the lamp. Pull all the wires apart and pull the plug wire from the base. Discard all old wires. Add a new plug and lamp wire. Using a prewired lamp cord and plug saves you some time, is just is cost effective as placing a plug on the cord yourself and the ends are already be prestripped. Pull the prewired lamp cord and plug into the lamp base through the opening from which you removed the old lamp plug wire.

10. Wire the lamp cords from the sockets onto the plug cord. Twist an orange wire connector onto all three hot wires and an orange wire connector onto all three neutral wires. Wrap black electrical tape onto the wires and the connectors, securing the connectors to the wires connecting each set together.

11. Replace the bottom onto the lamp, lamp harp and the lamp shade.

Tags: lamp cord, lamp cords, interior socket, lamp harp, lamp wires, plug wire

Floor Lamp Assembly Instructions

Floor lamps can add needed lighting to your rooms.

When decorating a home or an apartment, few aspects have as great an effect over the feel of a room than the lighting. Floor lamps can add to the over-all atmosphere of a room and add great lighting to a space. Most floor lamps are easy to assemble and can be set up in just a few minutes without additional tools. It's an easy addition to any room.

Instructions

1. Screw the upper lamp post into the middle lamp post.

2. Screw the middle lamp post into the lower lamp post.

3. Screw the bottom lamp post into the lamp post base.

4. Attach the lamp shade by first pushing the light bulb protection ring onto the light bulb connector, followed by the lampshade protection ring and the lampshade holder ring. Place the lampshade onto the lampshade holder ring brackets and tighten.

5. Screw a light bulb into the light bulb connector.

Tags: lamp post, light bulb, lamp post into, post into, bulb connector

Make Hanging Ceiling Decorations

Hanging ceiling decorations is a great way to decorate your classroom or child's bedroom. You will not only have fun creating this craft project, but you can use it to add a cool decorative touch as well. Hang items that reflect your child's interests, whether it be planets or airplanes. You could also hang ceiling decorations to mark the seasons. Hang hearts for Valentine's Day and giant goldfish and starfish as it gets closer to summer.

Instructions

1. Decide on the type of hanging ceiling decorations you want to make. If you are making them for your classroom, consider incorporating the decorations into a current theme you are working on. You could hang alphabet letters, for instance, if your students are working on their ABC's. Choose one of your child's favorite items if you are decorating his bedroom. If he likes sports, you could make hanging basketballs, soccer balls, tennis balls and footballs. Brainstorm until you decide on a theme you like best. You may even want to have your kids or students join in on the brainstorming fun!

2. Gather all the necessary materials you will need to create your hanging ceiling decorations. Items you will definitely need are paper, markers, crayons or paint, yarn, scissors, tissue paper, a stapler and tacks. If you are making a decoration that you need help drawing, such as a bird, pick up some stencils or cut outs to assist you.

3. Have your child or students join you in the fun of making the decorations. Place the stencil or cut out of the object on a piece of white paper and trace it with a pencil. You will want to draw the object twice for each decoration. Have your child color or paint the picture of the object that was traced. Allow the ink or paint to dry and cut out the objects. Continue this process as many times as you like to create your desired amount of decorations.

4. Line the cut out pieces up together so that the colored portion is on the outside. Use a stapler to attach the pieces by adding staples along the outside edges of your papers. Due this until 2/3 of your cut outs are stapled together. Next, take your tissue paper and use your hands to crumple it up into small bunches. Slide the crumpled tissue in between the stapled pieces until you cannot fit anymore. This will give your decoration a three dimensional effect. Continue to add staples along the remaining edges until your object is secured. Continue this process with as many decorations as you choose to make.

5. Decide how low you want your decorations to hang from the ceiling. Hold a strand of yarn up to the ceiling and cut the bottom end at the length you desire. Use this piece as a measurement to cut as many yarn pieces as you need. Attach the yarn to the top of your object with a stapler. Attach the other end to the ceiling with tape or a tack, depending on the type of ceiling you have.

Tags: ceiling decorations, your child, Continue this, Continue this process, create your, hanging ceiling decorations, Have your

Residential Cathedral Ceiling Lighting Ideas

Chandeliers can add drama to cathedral ceilings.

Choosing lighting for a room with cathedral ceilings can be a challenge, since you want a combination of functional lighting and lighting that showcases structural details. As you consider lighting options, consider fixtures that will work with your decor, brighten up the room and create the desired atmosphere in the space.

Ceiling Fan Light

Whether you live in a hot or a cold climate, a ceiling fan can increase circulation in a room with cathedral ceilings, ensuring a more comfortable atmosphere. To add additional brightness, choose a ceiling fan with a built-in light; the luminescence and motion will draw the eye upward, showcasing the details of the ceiling. Look for a fan-light combination that matches the style of your house, and choose one that will blend in visually with the wood or furniture finish for a seamless look.

Hanging Lights

Cathedral ceilings are suited to hanging lights that cannot be used on lower ceilings. Look for dramatic chandeliers, hanging lamps and modern fixtures that will serve as a focal point in the room. Choose lighting that suits the mood and style of the room: a dramatic chandelier for a traditional room, for example, or simple pendant lights for a comfortable family room. In an ultra contemporary home, you can make your own chandelier that doubles as art using old silver utensils suspended from metal rings with a light in the middle.

Skylight

By increasing the natural light in a room with cathedral ceilings, you can create a bright and airy feeling, almost as though the room is an extension of the outdoors. If the structure of the room allows it, install one or two skylights for the most direct light that will focus on the area below. In a large room, install windows high on the wall to brighten the top of the room; choose shapes that follow the line of the room for the most natural effect.

Recessed Lighting

For a less dramatic lighting option that will bring light to the corners of the room, choose simple recessed lighting. Recessed lights work well in modern rooms with cathedral ceilings; the simplicity of the circular lights can complement clean lines, particularly when arranged in a row. Often, you can install recessed pot lights in combination with other lighting devices for a soft, flattering effect.

Up-Lighting

To add to the visual interest of a cathedral ceiling, use spotlights that point upward. Use lights to showcase architectural details like exposed beams or carvings by pointing the bulbs directly at them to create interesting shadows. Hide up-lights behind a baseboard for a dramatic gallery-lighting look, or leave them on exposed tracks with decorative shades. For cathedral ceilings with many levels, include a row of lights at each level. Pair up-lighting with hanging lights to make the most of architectural details while adding brightness to the room.

Tags: that will, with cathedral, with cathedral ceilings, cathedral ceilings, cathedral ceilings

Install Armstrong Ceiling Tile With Glue

Install Armstrong Ceiling Tile With Glue

Armstrong ceiling tiles are designed with a tongue and groove feature to help the pieces fit tightly together. These tiles are intended for indoor installation only and can be installed through the use of furring strips or with a ceiling tile adhesive. The ceiling must be perfectly flat in order to glue down the tiles. If you have a popcorn or textured ceiling, the glue may not adhere properly and tiles could come loose over time.

Instructions

1. Clean the ceiling by dusting away any cobwebs and wiping off stains or discolored spots with a rag dampened in a mixture of equal parts water and white vinegar. Dirt or dust will prevent the tiles from properly adhering to the ceiling.

2. Determine the size of the border tiles by measure the distance between opposite walls in the room to determine the dimensions of the ceiling. Each ceiling tile is 12 inches square so if the measurements are even, such as 12 feet by 12 feet, you will use whole tiles for the border. If the dimensions are 12 feet and 6 inches by 12 feet and 6 inches, add an additional 12 inches to the inches portion of each measurement and then divide by two. For example, 12 feet and 6 inches becomes 12 feet and 18inches. Divide 18 inches by two to determine that the border tiles should be 9 inches wide.

3. Use a chalk line to mark the ceiling where the border tiles will be installed. If you need a 9-inch wide border, this line will be 9 inches from the wall. Continue to make chalk lines 1 foot apart to create a grid on the ceiling.

4. Cut the border tiles to size with a sharp utility knife. Use a straight edge to guide the knife and ensure an even cut.

5. Install the border tiles along one wall by applying ceiling tile adhesive to the corners and middle of each tile. Press each tile firmly into place on the ceiling with the grooved end of each of the tiles facing away from the wall.

6. Install the next row of tiles in the same manner. As you apply each tile to the ceiling, push the tile tightly against the border tiles so that the tongue and groove features of the tiles fit together.

7. Continue to install the tiles one row at a time until the entire ceiling has been covered.

Tags: border tiles, ceiling tile, each tile, feet inches, Armstrong Ceiling

Quarter Moulding Alternatives

The purpose of moulding when installing flooring in your home is dual. The number one reason for installing it is to make the flooring aesthetically pleasing, finishing off raw edges where the floor meets the wall. Without it, there is a gap to allow for expansion of the flooring with changing temperatures and varying amounts of moisture in the air. Placing moulding, such as quarter-round, which is the most commonly used, cheapest, and widely available variety, covers this gap and still allows for the expansion of the flooring. Installed moulding is never attached to the flooring, but to the wall, allowing the flooring to move beneath it.

Custom Cut Mouldings

Alternatives to quarter-round are necessary to suit individual tastes. It is a small detail in your home, but one that is also capable of saying much about you as a homeowner and decorator. While quarter-moulding is often the most efficient way to go, you also have the option of ordering custom cut mouldings, such as a concave cove cut, or cloverleaf design. When going this route, you also have the option of choosing the wood to match your home, rather than being bothered with staining or painting moulding prior to installing.

Square-Nose Moulding (End-Cut)

As an alternative to quarter-round, this moulding sits lower and extends farther from the wall. It also allows for adequate flooring expansion. It has other uses in addition to this, such as for joining two different flooring materials (wood to carpet, carpet to tile), being placed against door tracks, or being placed where there is no need for expansion, but still a need for an aesthetic finish, such as with carpet.

Bullnose Moulding

A flashier alternative to smaller, lower-profile mouldings, the bullnose also works well with tile floors. Bullnose moulding finishes more like a baseboard than a moulding, and is found in a variety of woods and finishes.

Tags: your home, also have, also have option, being placed, expansion flooring

Install A Progress Fan Universal Light Kit

Installing a Progress Fan Universal Light kit can be done in about 20 minutes. This article deals specifically with the Progress Fan Universal Lighting Kits No. 2642, No. 2643 and No. 2647. However, it applies to 99 percent of all available ceiling fan light kits. The only differences being the shape, style and number of bulbs. Even with the differences they all attach the same way. Adding light kits to ceiling fans can change the look of an entire room, making it not only more aesthetically pleasing but also adding more light.

Instructions

1. Turn off the circuit breaker or fuse controlling your ceiling fan to make the wires safe to handle. Locate and loosen the three screws holding on the cover at the lowest level of the ceiling fan. They are positioned around the side of the cover equally spaced. Loosen the screws enough for the cover to be able to spin. One screw may not have slots and will need to be completely removed. Twist the cover counter-clockwise to line up the screws with the vertical slots then pull it straight down to remove it.

2. Remove the plastic plug located in the center of the cover. Squeeze the two little plastic tabs on the inside of the cover together and pull the plug out from the other side. Remove the nut and washer from the light kit's threaded tube where the wires come out.

3. Insert the wires into the hole in the cover where you removed the plastic plug, with the cupped side of the cover facing away from the light kit. Thread the cover onto the light kits threaded tube clock-wise until it's tight. Slide the washer then the nut over the wires from the threaded tube, and tighten the nut.

4. Hold the light kit up to the fan where you removed the cover. Attach the white wire from the fan to the white wire from the light kit. The Progress fan has quick-connect wires that only need to be pushed into each other. Other types of light kits have wire nuts on the wires for the connection. Attach the black (or blue) wire from the fan to the black (or blue) wire from the light kit.

5. Push the wires into a location where they won't interfere when you reattach the cover (now attached to the light kit by the threaed tube) back on to the fan. Line up the slots in the cover with the screws and slide the cover back on.Twist the light kit and cover clock-wise until the screws are at the end of the horizontal part of the slot. Put in the screw that you had to remove then tighten all three screws.

6. Attach your glass covers onto the light kit with the screws provided. Put your light bulbs in and turn the circuit breaker or fuse for the ceiling fan back on.

Tags: from light, light kits, wire from, Progress Universal, threaded tube, black blue, black blue wire

Paint A Room With Adjoining Catheral Ceilings

Learn paint adjoining cathedral ceilings.

Cathedral ceilings usually have high sections and unique angles, providing a spacious room with character. Depending on the paint color, cathedral ceilings can accent the walls in a room or make the ceiling itself the focal point of the room. If you're thinking about painting the adjoining cathedral ceilings in your home, you might feel a little intimidated. The high sections and long width of cathedral ceilings sometimes makes ladder usage difficult, if not impossible. With the right tools, you can safely paint your adjoining cathedral ceilings in as little as two days, depending on the size.

Instructions

1. Choose a paint color for the ceiling.

Select a paint color for your cathedral ceilings. To highlight and draw more attention to the walls, choose a tinted white color for the ceiling. A darker ceiling color will make the height of the walls more noticeable. If you want to accent the shape and beauty of your cathedral ceilings, paint them with a brighter interior white paint. If you wish to have a ceiling without any sheen to it, select a ceiling paint in a completely flat finish. Use a matte paint finish if you anticipate cleaning the cathedral ceiling in the future.

2. Remove furniture from the room.

Remove furniture, pictures and small objects from the room, so you have more working space. Wrap painter's plastic around furniture, electronics and anything else that you're unable to remove from the room. Secure the bottom of the plastic with painter's tape, to prevent the plastic from folding or falling to the ground. Neatly spread drop cloths over the entire floor space, without leaving any part of the floor exposed to falling paint drips. Lay the drop cloths completely flat on the floor to prevent tripping. Prepare the area beneath all adjoining ceilings, so you can paint each one in sequence without stopping.

3. Mix the ceiling paint together.

Pour all of the ceiling paint into an empty five-gallon bucket and mix it all together with a stir stick. To avoid uneven paint color in the final paint finish, make sure that you combine and mix all of the paint together in the beginning. Stir the paint for at least two minutes for the best results. Insert a paint screen into the bucket for rolling off excess paint when dipping the paint roller into the paint.

4. Use a paint brush extender to paint the ceiling.

Screw a brush extender tool onto a telescoping extension pole. Use a telescoping painter's pole of at least 12 feet in length. Select a telescoping pole of a greater length for higher cathedral ceilings. Adjust the angle of the brush extender by turning the screws on both sides of the tool. Insert your 3-inch paint brush firmly into the top of the brush extender tool. Raise and extend the pole and extender tool up to the corner of the ceiling to test the angle of the paintbrush. To brush a clean and straight paint line, make any necessary adjustments to the extender tool to get the desired angle.

5. Brush all the inside ceiling corners.

Dip the paintbrush on the extender into the bucket and tap it on the side of the bucket to remove excess paint from the brush. Avoid dipping the brush more than half the length of the bristles. Raise the paintbrush up to the ceiling corner and carefully brush the paint line up to the wall, without getting paint onto the wall. Brush in all of the outer ceiling corners first. Start from one corner of the ceiling and work to the other, to achieve a nice straight paint line. Maintain a steady motion to keep the line as straight as possible. Brush the paint line about three inches into the ceiling.

6. Use the paint brush for tight corners and spaces.

Fill in any tight spaces and corners of the adjoining cathedral ceilings with a paintbrush. Complete all of the work with the paintbrush on all adjoining cathedral ceilings before rolling the ceiling paint. To get the best results, work from one ceiling into the next adjoining ceiling to achieve uniform color and coverage. Use the paintbrush to get into any angles and connecting corners of the adjoining ceilings, where the roller is unable to reach.

7. Prepare the paint roller for painting.

Clean your 9-inch paint roller. Wrap painter's tape around the roller to remove the loose fibers and hair from the roller's surface. Run your hand over the paint roller and lightly pull off the remaining hairs left over from the tape. You should remove the roller hairs if you're using a matte or eggshell finish, to avoid imperfections in the final paint finish. Insert the 9-inch paint roller onto a 9-inch roller handle.

8. Roll paint on all adjoining ceilings, working in one direction.

Screw the paint handle and roller onto the painter's extension pole. Dip the paint roller into the paint bucket and use the screen inside the bucket to roll off the excess paint dripping from the roller. Extend the painter's pole and roller up to the ceiling and begin rolling the ceiling paint. Complete one ceiling and roll out the adjoining ceilings. Roll the paint close to the corner edges and adjoining ceiling angles, to hide brush marks. Apply the paint evenly in small sections, and keep a wet edge of paint. Spread the paint across the ceiling without leaving heavy paint or bare spots. Roll over areas with paint build-up more than once, to make a fine and uniform roller stipple. Apply a second coat of ceiling paint using the same procedures.

Tags: cathedral ceilings, ceiling paint, paint roller, adjoining cathedral, adjoining cathedral ceilings, adjoining ceilings

Remove Brick Tile

Brick is a clay-based material that has been used in all types of construction throughout history, mostly for structural purposes. While brick is still commonly used in modern construction, it is now often used as an aesthetic material, mostly for cladding walls. Brick tiles were developed to resemble brick, but at a fraction of the thickness for easy application to just about any surface. Like any other building material, brick can wear and break down over time, and must be removed. The process of removing brick tile is a generally straightforward task that can be completed using just basic masonry tools.

Instructions

1. Firmly hold the masonry chisel to the grout joint between two brick tiles.

2. Tap the head of the chisel with the masonry hammer to chip away at the grout joint, until the grout is completely removed from between the brick tiles.

3. Angle the chisel (at about 45 degrees) to the joint between the brick tile and the mounting surface (floor or wall), and hold firmly.

4. Strike the head of the chisel with the masonry hammer until the brick tile breaks free; in most cases, removing brick tile will result in broken tiles.

5. Repeat the process on the remaining brick tiles, working your way outward from the first brick tile removed.

6. Remove any remaining mortar from the mounting surface, using the masonry chisel and hammer.

Tags: brick tile, between brick, brick tiles, between brick tiles, chisel with, chisel with masonry, grout joint

Types Of Residential Ceiling Tiles

The ceiling is more that a place to hang a light from. Ceiling tiles are an important element in the design of a room. The days of just having plain white squares are gone, although these are still available if you want them. You can choose ceiling tiles to match other features in the room, to match the period of the house or make an older house look and feel more modern.

Acoustical Ceiling Tile

Acoustical ceiling tile helps soundproof a room. It is good for a music room or playroom. It is also good in multifamily homes, where you want to give each tenant as quite a place as possible. There are different levels of soundproofing, depending on the material used. Be sure to ask just how soundproof a given acoustical ceiling tile is.

Tin Ceiling Tile

Tin ceiling tile can come in individual tiles or in rolls, with the designed embossed on the surface. Tin ceilings are not always made of tin. Other materials include brass, steel and copper. Tin ceilings go back to Victorian residences when ceilings were high, and tin was a welcome fuel conserver because it reflected heat back into the room. This makes tin ceilings an early form of eco-friendly ceiling tiles.

Suspended Ceilings

Use suspended ceilings when you want to lower a high ceiling. The tiles are suspended on wire grids at any height you wish. They come in a wide variety of materials, including metal, mirror, tin and wood. Once the grid is installed, the tiles just slip into place. The tiles are easy to replace; if sometime down the road you want to change the style, it is as easy as pushing one out and putting the new one in.

Plastic Ceiling Tile

Plastic ceiling tile will give your home extra insulation and save on the energy bill. Plastic ceiling tiles have the look of tin ceiling tiles, but they are much lighter. They also come in a variety of designs from classical Victorian to modern. And they can come with the best fire-resistance rating, and they're easy to paint.

Cork Ceiling Tile

Cork is fast becoming one of the most popular eco-friendly materials for a variety of products and reasons. Cork is lightweight, resistant to rot, and fire resistant when left natural. Cork ceiling tiles come in a wide choice of styles and colors suitable for most homes, and they can come unfinished or with a wax finish. If you wish, you can paint them to complement your decor. Cork is low maintenance, easy to install and comes in a choice of thicknesses.

Tags: ceiling tiles, ceiling tile, come wide

Design Ideas For Textured Plywood Panel Ceilings From The 1950s

Time to update that textured ceiling.

Decor from the 1950s, known as Mid-Century Modern, has become trendy once again. However, not all relics from this period look instantly chic today. For example, textured plywood panel ceilings from the 1950s can look especially dated. There are several ways to improve or conceal them and bring your ceiling into the 21st century.

Paint It

One of the simplest ways to make any old ceiling look fresh again is to apply some paint. Textured plywood panels can easily be painted using a thick roller or sprayer, which allows you to thoroughly coat all of the grooves. You will likely need to apply at least two coats of paint to achieve an even finish. In terms of color choice, white is always a safe bet, but consider a muted gray or beige, depending on your decor style.

Install Wood Trim

Another DIY project that can vastly improve the look of your plywood panel ceiling is to install additional wood trim between the panels. The trim will add depth and detail, and can look either rustic or Old World, depending on the type of wood that you choose. Carefully measure dimensions and cut the trim to fit. Nail it into place, aligning with the panel reveals. Finish with a clear coat or paint.

Cover With Drywall

If you crave a modern look in your home, it might be time simply to do away with those dated textured ceiling panels. Don't bother ripping them out; instead, install a thin layer of drywall over the panels for a smooth effect. Use 1/4-inch drywall panels and screws, and apply a skim coat to even out all the seams. Finish with a couple of coats of white or off-white paint.

Change the Lighting Scheme

For those who don't want to embark on a messy project, perhaps an update to the lighting in the room is all that's needed to draw attention away from the ceiling panels. Remove ceiling fixtures, which draw attention in that direction, and use sconces to wash the walls with light. Task lamps provide focus around the room where needed, and create a soft ambiance.

Tags: ceiling panels, draw attention, Finish with, from 1950s, look your, plywood panel

Install Steel Siding

Install Steel Siding

Steel siding is one of the more difficult sidings to install. Vinyl or aluminum siding is recommended by most builders for do-it-yourself home owner projects because these two materials are lightweight and easy to use. But don't let that discourage you. Steel siding adds a certain charm to a home that other sidings do not, and you can install it on your own if you follow the directions carefully. If you choose a steel siding with a PVC finish, your siding will be maintenance free and resistant to scratches, hail and dents. Properly prepare your structure by making sure the walls are all smooth and plumb.

Instructions

1. Measure the height and width in square feet of all the walls, including gable ends, dormer sides and gambrel walls. Subtract the square footage of the garage doors and glass or sliding doors. Take the total net square feet plus 100. This is the amount of steel siding you will need in square footage.

2. Prepare your surface before installing the steel siding. Hammer in any loose nails. Replace any rotted wood. Remove all old paint buildup, old putty and caulking. If there is a low place in the wall, build it out with shims. Remove all gutter downspouts and tie back plants.

3. Attach aluminum foil underlayment as an insulator under the siding. Staple the underlayment to the walls. Make sure you choose perforated or breather underlay, which allows the passage of water vapors. Place the foil underlayment near the edges of all openings and around all corners. Overlap the material 2 inches at all sides and end joints.

4. Snap a chalk line from one end of the house to the other to determine your reference line for your starter strip. When hanging your steel siding you must make sure your lines are straight. You should also measure from the eaves or under the windows down to the bottom of the home to make sure the siding is hung parallel to the soffits.

5. Drive a nail into the center of the predrilled factory hole so that it is snug but not tight. The siding is not hammered into the wall. It is more commonly referred to as being hung on the nail. Steel siding changes shape in extreme weather conditions. If it is nailed too tight it cannot move as needed.

6. Use 2-inch galvanized steel nails for hanging steel siding. Hammer the nail in straight, never at an angle. Space the siding nails to 16-inch centers where the studs are located. Nail into every stud, but never closer than 6 inches from any panel overlap.

7. Install the starter strip all the way around the bottom of the building. Be sure to follow the chalk line. Check the starter strip with a level to make sure it is completely straight and meets evenly at all corners. The starter strip will determine the placement for each additional layer of siding so it must be installed properly.

8. Complete the installation on one wall first. Continue nailing each steel siding panel horizontally on top of the next with a 2-inch overlap. After one wall is complete, install the siding on the adjacent wall. Leave a 3/4 inch gap at the corners for installing corner caps.

9. Slip the bottom flanges of the corner cap under the butt of the siding panels. Push the cap up and firmly press into place. Make sure the butts of the corner caps are flush with the panels and secure with 2-inch nails. Place a nail through the predrilled hole on the top of the cap for best results.

Tags: starter strip, steel siding, chalk line, corner caps, foil underlayment

Rules Of Painting Ceilings

The average homeowner is capable of painting her ceiling.

A well-painted ceiling highlights a room's decor and presents the space in an attractive way. Although some homeowners might feel intimidated by the task of painting their ceilings, this feeling is unwarranted. Giving your ceiling a fresh, more colorful appearance is well within the abilities of the average person. Knowing a few rules and tips for painting a ceiling makes the process proceed more comfortably.

Color

Paint colors can draw or turn away the eye of the viewer and create a mood or emotion. For instance, painting your ceiling with a light color entices the eye, while darker colors turn a person's attention back to other parts of the room. In addition, the size of the room affects how color is perceived. For example, brown paint might dominate a room with a low ceiling, but work well for room with a high ceiling.

Special

Although you can use the same paint on your ceiling that you use on your walls, some manufacturers make paints formulated especially for ceilings. Ceiling paint, which is thicker than typical wall paint, covers imperfections such as stains and marks better than other types of paint. Paints formulated for ceilings are not as durable as wall paints and should never be used on walls. Ceiling paint often performs better than wall paint on previously painted ceilings.

Using a Partner

Painting a ceiling with a partner makes the job much easier than doing it alone. One person, called the outliner, should paint the areas where the wall and ceiling meet, while the other person follows with a roller and paints the main portion of the surface. The person with the roller should follow the outliner as soon as she can. The roller should avoid allowing any paint the outliner has applied to dry before the roller applies his coat of paint, since this will result in lap marks.

Technique

The roller should start painting from the corner outward parallel with the longest wall and work in 3 or 4 foot sections, according to Dummies.com. When the roller reaches the end of the ceiling, he should go back to the opposite wall and repeat the process. Try to avoid using a ladder to roll on paint, which requires that you move the ladder constantly as you work. Apply the paint with a roller attached to an extension pole instead.

Tags: roller should, with roller, your ceiling, better than, Ceiling paint

Roach Problems & Wood Paneling

Jars are effective in eliminating roaches from your home.

Many homeowners view roaches as fearsome-looking insects and a source of disease due to the roaches' eating habits. Roaches are evasive, since they are able to hide in dark places, including behind wood paneling and walls. Some styles of wood paneling have wide enough cracks for roaches to sneak within a building's walls. Maintaining and cleaning your house goes a long way in eliminating roaches. Also, hardware and grocery stores sell roach pesticides and traps.

Indoor Species

German and brown-banded are the two most common indoor roach species in the United States, according to the University of California's Integrated Pest Management Program. Both roach species grow up to 1/2-inch long when mature. German roaches are brown and brown-banded males have a golden color; female brown-banded roaches are dark brown. Male and female German roaches bear a similar coloration. Both roach species develop wings when they are adults. Brown-banded roaches are more likely to be seen behind wooden paneled walls in warm areas, while German roaches live in kitchens and storage areas.

Disease

Roaches may cause diseases as a result of their scavenging habits. These insects dine on spoiled food and become transmitters of bacterial organisms from the food. While the roaches themselves are not affected, the bacteria remains in their intestines until they release their feces on items such as silverware, plates and clothes. According to the New York City Department of Health and Mental Hygiene, a common disease spread by roaches is salmonella, which results in food poisoning. Asthma and allergies occur when people breathe in dust or particles of infected roach feces.

Wood Paneling

According to the University of Nebraska-Lincoln Extension, when roaches retreat behind wood paneling and walls if they detect aerosol insecticides. Also, living within walls provides roaches with the darkness they prefer. However, most roaches need to be near a water source, which is not abundant behind walls. The most likely roach to see behind wood paneling and walls are brown-banded, since they only require a minimal amount of water for survival.

Roach Prevention

Killing roaches with aerosol insecticides usually proves fruitless, but other methods are available to homeowners eager to rid themselves of these six-legged pests. Prevent entryways for roaches within your home. Do this by caulking or repairing holes near water pipes and placing screens over windows, vents and air ducts. Also, repair any holes or cracks found in your walls and wood paneling. Regularly dispose of your garbage and remove any food crumbs from your floor; this limits the amount of food a roach eats. Some pesticides, such as roach bait and boric acid, are effective in eliminating roaches.

Tags: behind wood, behind wood paneling, eliminating roaches, German roaches, paneling walls, roach species, wood paneling

Update A Kitchen With A Dropped Ceiling

Dropped ceilings may help reduce home heating costs and they are often installed to mask piping, but kitchens with dropped ceilings may, overtime, become stained from water and smoke from cooking, rendering them ugly. They're also not as modern a look as the high ceilings covered up by the dropped ceiling tiles. Once you remove the dropped ceiling, the kitchen will immediately feel like an updated room.

Instructions

1. Climb up on a stepladder, lift a ceiling tile and look at the condition of the ceiling above using a flash light. You may see right away that you're able to tackle the project to bring back the original ceiling based on the sight of pipes, ductwork or falling plaster. Moving pipes and heating ducts, or repairing old plaster takes far more involvement than simply pulling down the dropped ceiling and painting the ceiling.

2. Remove all the ceiling panels if you decide you can tackle the job. If you lift one end and then tilt the tile, you can pull it through the opening in the tile structure. Wear a dust mask and goggles since there will be plenty of dust involved.

3. Turn off the power to the lights in the ceiling at the wall switch as well as at the breaker in the electrical panel for the house. You don't want to electrocute yourself.

4. Take down all the lightbulbs. Keep them in a safe place. Unscrew the light fixtures with an electric drill and pull out the old fixtures, cutting wires as necessary using wire cutters. Usually the wires will all be coming out from old light receptacles in the ceiling, so you can cut the extra wire up to the receptacle.

5. Cut the suspension wires that hold up the framework to the suspended ceiling. Work from one end of the room, disassembling the framework as you go. Work with partner so that you have help carting the metal outside while you work.

6. Unscrew all the suspension wire eye bolts in the ceiling and use a hammer to pull away the tracking from around the walls. Disconnect any old receptacles and leave the wires hanging until after you finish renovating the walls.

7. Patch any holes in the wall with spackling using a putty knife. Dry sand and repeat until the surface of the wall is smooth. Paint the walls the color of your choice after first priming them with a quality primer.

8. Install new lights and switches, and restore the power.

Tags: dropped ceiling

Install Ceiling Mounted Kitchen Cabinets

Ceiling-mounted cabinets need a strong structural base.

Ceiling-mounted kitchen cabinets create visual separation while maintaining an open design theme. While the process for mounting the cabinets is simple, it is essential that the cabinetry be firmly secured to the ceiling infrastructure to ensure safe and functional use. Making sure the cabinets are fastened to the home's more sturdy skeletal structure is the key to correct installation.

Instructions

1. Locate the ceiling joists by running a stud finder along the ceiling where the cabinet is to be installed. Mark each joist with a pencil.

2. Mark out the intended location of the cabinet on the ceiling with a pencil. Measure in from the left and right sides of the future cabinet placement to the joist location marks. Using these measurements, mark out the location of the joists on the upper inside panel of the cabinet and make a small "X" at the joist locations. There should be two joist marks for each joist, 2 inches in from the edge of the cabinet's upper panel.

3. Use this step only if the cabinet is to have a 3- to 4-inch crown molding attached to it. Measure the full length of the cabinet. Cut two lengths of 2-by-4 stud to match the length of the cabinet using a skill saw to make the cut. Attach the cut stud lengths to the top of the cabinet along the front and back edge with 2-inch wood screws. These studs will give the cabinet the needed distance from the ceiling to allow for crown installation. If the cabinet will not have crown molding attached to it, move on to Step 4.

4. Drill a 3/8-inch diameter pilot hole at each of the joist location marks on the upper inside panel of the cabinet. Drill a 1/4-inch diameter pilot hole at each of the joist location marks in the ceiling to be aligned with the centers of the 3/8-inch pilot holes drilled in the cabinet.

5. Lift the cabinet into position. Slide the wood lags into the pilot holes and pound them into the ceiling pilot holes with a hammer. Tighten the lag bolts firmly to the ceiling joists until the cabinet is tight against the ceiling.

Tags: each joist, joist location, joist location marks, location marks, pilot holes

Tools For Ceiling Stucco Jobs

Pull stucco from a bucket with a trowel.

Proper stucco tools reduce the neck strain and shoulder pain associated with stuccoing ceilings, soffits and eaves. Applying stucco to overhead surfaces might seem daunting at first, but the right tools make it just as easy as applying stucco to walls. Whether you choose to use traditional hand tools, like the trowel and float, or power tools, such as the stucco sprayer, a familiarity with stucco tools allows you to choose a tool that fits the scope and scale of your project.

Stucco Sprayer

The stucco sprayer uses pneumatic force supplied by an air compressor to propel mixed stucco onto ceilings and walls. Many building professionals refer to the stucco sprayer by the name of its largest component, the hopper, a rectangular container that holds the stucco mix. Adjustable nozzles allow this tool's operator to manipulate the rate of stucco application as required for successive coats of stucco. The stucco sprayer is a point and shoot tool; it reduces the shoulder and neck strain that results from sustained periods of ceiling stucco application. While these tools are costly to purchase, they are widely available for rent at hardware stores and tool shops.

Hawk

A tool called a hawk allows a stucco worker to transport stucco from a mixing container to a wall or ceiling. The hawk is a square-shaped piece of metal, such as stainless steel, with a straight handle protruding from one of its sides. Instead of carrying an entire bucket or container of stucco up a ladder and to a ceiling, a worker scoops and holds a portion of stucco on the hawk's flat side.

Trowel

Trowels are the most common stucco application tool. A trowel is a flat, rectangular piece of metal with a hooked handle protruding from one side. Stucco workers use trowels to scoop stucco from mixing containers and to press and spread stucco onto ceilings and walls.

Float

The float smooths or textures wet stucco once it is applied to a ceiling or wall. The float, like the trowel, features a rectangular base and a protruding, hooked handle. The float's base is made of soft material, such as sponge, rubber or soft plastic. The float's soft surface redistributes and manipulates the surface of wet stucco, rather than removing it.

Mixer

Stucco mixers save time and labor during large stucco jobs. A do-it-yourselfer is usually satisfied with a drill-mounted paddle mixer, while a professional might require a stationary machine similar to a cement mixer. The drill-mounted paddle mixer looks like an attachment commercial kitchen's stand mixer; paddles, or fins, rest at the end of a long rod that attaches to the average electric power drill. Once activated, the drill spins the paddles to combine dry stucco mix with water. A commercial-grade, stationary mixer features spinning paddles inside of a rotating barrel. Water and dry stucco mix are combined within the barrel as it rotates and its paddles turn. Drill-mounted mixers often cost less than $20 in 2010. Commercial mixers are costly but readily available for rent at tool shops.

Tags: stucco application, stucco from, stucco sprayer, available rent, ceilings walls

Great Bath Shower And Bathroom Remodeling Ideas

Fixtures, flooring and lighting are the basic elements of a bathroom remodel.

A bathroom remodel can be one of the most expensive investments in your home, but it is well worth the cost if you create a relaxing oasis that suits your design style. The major components of a remodel are the tub and shower, sinks, toilet, flooring and lighting. Splurge on expensive features or choose elegant, budget-friendly options, and then add decorative features to enhance the bathroom design scheme.

Tub and Shower

Choose from a shower stall with separate tub or a shower and tub combination. Enclose a separate shower stall with frosted glass doors for a sleek look. Install a floor drain, to add an open shower with a tiled wall that contains the spray of water. Claw-foot and garden tubs make interesting choices for soaking tubs, while whirlpool tubs with high-pressure water jets typically appear in new construction. Tiled shower walls are the preferred choice for luxurious bathrooms. Install a steam shower that acts like a sauna if you want to feel like you are at a spa.

Sinks

The basic options for sinks are vanity sinks, pedestal sinks and wall-mount sinks. Wall-mount sinks and pedestals save space in small bathrooms, although pedestals are more widely regarded for the architectural design. Master bathrooms typically have double-vanity sinks so that each person who shares the bathroom has his and her own sink and counter space. For a distinct or specialty sink style, go with separate countertop and sink pieces. Counter options include high-price granite and marble, or budget-friendly porcelain and Formica.

Toilets

Energy-efficient toilets that flush with 1.6 gallons of water instead of 5 gallons are a smart choice for any bathroom remodel. You can find these modern innovations in contemporary and vintage styles; choose from a standard model round or oblong toilet bowl with a simple tank. A one-piece toilet, in which the tank and bowl are combined, is a sleek option for contemporary bathroom designs. You can also find toilets that replicate old-fashioned models and can make an intriguing statement in your bathroom; a toilet with a 1920s-style chain-pull in which the tank mounts to the wall and connects to the toilet with a pipe adds period charm.

Floors

A hard-surface floor in your bathroom prevents water damage. Budget-option vinyl comes in peel-and-stick or rolls and is easy for DIYers to install. Vinyl is available in a wide variety of prints to go with any decor. Granite and marble are popular choices for bathrooms with big budgets and are the ultimate in luxury. A natural slate tile brings the look of the outdoors inside and absorbs some of the surface moisture, which prevents slipping. The moisture in the slate evaporates naturally, so you don't have to worry about water damage. Whatever your tile choice, add the same tile inside your shower for continuity.

Lighting

Whatever your budget, you can dress up your bathroom with lighting choices that range in styles from classic to contemporary. Vanity lighting strips provide task lighting over your mirrors. You can get these with exposed round bulbs or romantic, downward-facing lights with shades. Bright pendant lights are a contemporary alternative to standard vanity strips. Your bathroom also needs a central light to illuminate the room for basic use. Choose a simple light fixture that includes an exhaust fan or expand your options by installing the light and exhaust fan separately. Globe fixtures come in different shapes to suit any taste, but if you're a romantic, go with an elaborate chandelier. For a modern look, accent your bathroom features with dim sconces or can lighting.

Tags: bathroom remodel, your bathroom, flooring lighting, separate shower, shower stall

Avoid Roller Marks When Painting A Ceiling

You can spruce up a plain ceiling with colorful paint.

Ceiling color can draw the eye up to interesting home architecture or lighting fixtures. Ceiling colorization is a nice aesthetic touch, but the painting process is strenuous. Painting a ceiling requires a lot of repeated ladder movement and uncomfortable overhead arm extension. It can be tempting to just roll paint on in the quickest manner possible, but this invariably leads to roller marks. If you want to avoid roller marks on a ceiling, you need to apply your paint in a specific fashion.

Instructions

1. Lay dropcloths on the floor to protect against accidental drips.

2. Place your A-frame ladder in a central location for parallel rolling. You'll likely need to reposition the ladder so it remains centered on whatever area of the ceiling you're painting. Resist the temptation to lean haphazardly off the ladder to save time; repositioning a ladder to a central location only takes a few minutes, and it provides a safer work environment. If your ceiling is low enough, you may be able to reach the ceiling with a simple roller extension pole, making the entire job easier.

3. Dip the roller into a roller pan or a bucket equipped with a roller screen.

4. Roll the paint-saturated roller brush on the pan or screen to get rid of any excess saturation or loose roller nap fibers.

5. Apply paint to the ceiling in parallel strokes, overlapping the previous roller stroke by at least 50 percent. If you don't generously overlap your paint, you will see visible roller marks as it dries. When rolling on the paint, make sure you roll over each line three times before moving on. The first pass will "unload" the roller, applying most of the paint. The second pass sets the paint, and the third pass will smooth out the paint for a better finish.

Tags: roller marks, ceiling with, central location, ladder central, ladder central location

Cheap Ways To Make A Brick Fireplace Look New

Return your fireplace to its former place of honor.

Warm and inviting fireplaces are appealing decorative features in any season, whether or not they hold a crackling fire. However, old, dirty or plain ugly brick fireplace surrounds take away from the aesthetics. Unattractive brick isn't permanent, though. With a little ingenuity and some creative flair, you can revive your old brick fireplace or transform it into something sleek and new. Put your fireplace back into the spotlight by giving it a fresh, clean look.

Scrub with TSP

Use a soft-bristle brush to scrub bricks.

TSP, or trisodium phosphate, is a heavy-duty cleaner available at most retail home improvement centers. Mix TSP in a bucket with water according to the manufacturer's directions. Generally, a gallon of water with 1/8 cup of TSP makes a good cleaning solution. Always wear rubber gloves when working with TSP, since it is a chemical that causes skin irritation, recommends Fireplaces Magazine. Arrange a sturdy dropcloth on the floor and hearth surrounding the fireplace to protect them from the inevitable drips and runs. Beginning at the top bricks, saturate and scrub well using a soft scrub brush. Do not use a wire brush, as it will scar and scratch the bricks. TSP removes years of grime and soot to reveal clean, fresher-looking bricks. Rinsing is messy, but necessary to remove all the residual cleaner. Begin with a clean scrub brush and a bucket of clean water, repeating the top-to-bottom scrubbing method used while cleaning the bricks.

Paint

Use an old, worn paint brush for painting rough brick.

Paint old fireplace bricks to give your room the look of a new fireplace. Several coats of white paint will seal the pores in brick, making them easier to clean in the future. Begin with a coat of high-quality primer for a more even surface that will stand up to years of cleaning. Use a roller with a very thick nap--the kind designed for textured walls and ceilings--to help reach into the crevices. If your brick has a lot of texture and deep mortar grooves, use an old paintbrush instead. There is no need to buy a special brush, since painting such a rough surface will make it unusable for future projects anyway, explains Lavonia Pint and Decorating. After painting, seal the surface with a water-based sealant to protect the paint. Gloss sealers add shine, but matte-finish sealers also work.

Resurface

Cover old brick with marble, ceramic or brick veneer tiles.

Marble or ceramic tiles instantly transform your fireplace with a whole new appearance. If you like the look of brick, but yours is simply ugly, cover your fireplace with thin, brick veneer tiles to make it look new again. Brick is an ideal surface for tiling, since it is stable and doesn't flex. Use a grinder or rotary tool with a stiff wire brush attachment to mar the surface of slick or smooth bricks enough to hold mortar or tile adhesive, recommends Ron Hazelton's House Calls. Use mortar as the adhesive foundation for brick, or commercial tile adhesive, also called mastic, for ceramic or marble. Insert tile spacers in between for even grout lines. Fill tile grout lines with grout (not caulk), or brick veneer grout lines with mortar. Use tile or brick sealer to the finished job to help with cleaning in the future.

Tags: your fireplace, brick veneer, grout lines, Begin with, brick fireplace, brick veneer tiles