Decorate A Toddler'S Bathroom

Use a toddler-friendly theme, such as rubber ducks, for your toddler's bathroom.

Decorate your toddler's bathroom using decor that makes it friendly and comfortable for her, while maintaining a safe and easy-to-clean environment. Use a color scheme or theme that your toddler enjoys, with a touch of elegance if older children or guests use the bathroom as well.

Instructions

1. Involve your toddler in choosing the theme or color scheme if she exhibits clear taste on what she does and does not like. Common ideas for a toddler include a spring garden, insects, fish, ducks, turtles, frogs, nautical or a favorite character. Allow her to choose simple details if the entire theme is too much for her.

2. Paint the walls in a single color or pattern, such as stripes, that complement the theme or color scheme you've selected. Any color can work in your toddler's bathroom, although light or bright colors are ideal.

3. Hang a shower curtain on shower curtain hooks that complement your theme. A simple curtain with a cheerful pattern is ideal. Clear curtains with bright patterns that allow you to see inside the shower are ideal so you can keep an eye on him. Forgo the shower curtain if your toddler is the only one who uses the bathroom and takes only baths.

4. Fold matching towels over the towel rack. Add a matching group of towels under the sink, in a cabinet or other area where your toddler can reach. Personalized towels with your toddler's name will make the room more special.

5. Place a bath mat in front of the tub with a non-skid back. Choose a plain color that complements the bathroom colors or a design, such as a duck or flower shape, depending on the theme.

6. Decorate the walls with pictures or wall hangings that complement the bathroom's theme. Pictures of lighthouses, a ship's wheel and anchor or hooks that look like ships would work well in a nautical bathroom.

7. Accessorize the bathroom with a coordinating cup, toothbrush holder, soap dispenser, garbage can, non-slip bath decals and stepping stool.

Tags: your toddler, color scheme, shower curtain, that complement, your toddler bathroom

Install A Bathroom Light Fixture

When you want to update the appearance of a room, don't overlook the lighting. One sure way to impact the overall look of your bathroom is to replace the light fixture. It's easy to do if you just follow these instructions.

Instructions

1. If there is no existing fixture to remove, locate the power source to your outlet box.

2. Turn off the power to the electrical box.

3. Install the mounting bracket.

4. Connect the white wire to the white wire by twisting them together and then screwing on a wire nut. Connect the black wire to the black wire by twisting them together and then screwing on a wire nut. Finish connecting the wiring by connecting the grounding wires in the same way.

5. Install the mounting screws for the fixture. Position the fixture over the screws and rotate to hold in place. Tighten the screws to secure the fixture.

6. Install the lightbulbs and shades.

7. Turn the power to the electrical box back on.

Tags: black wire, Install mounting, power electrical, screwing wire, them together, them together then

Install Oak Flooring On A Ceiling

Oak flooring is a beautiful way to dress up a ceiling. It's also a fairly complicated method. Unlike laying a floor, hanging planks on a ceiling requires that you end-cut each plank to land in the center of a joist (because ceiling plaster won't hold the nail the way subflooring will). That means there will be more waste than usual, so add about 20 percent to the square footage -- instead of the usual 10 percent -- when figuring how much flooring you need. Make sure the planks are pre-finished.

Instructions

1. Climb your ladder with your studfinder, pencil and level. Find all the ceiling joists and draw lines along the center of each one, going all across the room.

2. Move the ladder to one side of the room, next to one of the walls that run perpendicular to the joists. Hold a flooring plank up to the ceiling with the groove-side pressed against the wall and one end butting against the adjacent wall. The plank should be running perpendicular to the joist lines. With your pencil, mark on the plank where it crosses the last joist line.

3. Take the piece down and put it on your miter saw, set to a 90-degree cut at the mark. Cut it. Run a bead of carpenter's glue along the back of it, then take it back up the ladder and set it back in place. The cut end of the piece now should fall directly in the center of a joist. Affix the plank to the ceiling with your nailer, putting in two nails at each point where a joist crosses the plank.

4. Repeat for the next plank, setting it at the end of the first one, then cutting the opposite end as needed to land at the center of a joist. Continue until the last piece comes to the adjoining wall. Again, put carpenter's glue on the back, and two nails at each point where a joist runs behind the board.

5. Put the groove side of the new piece for the next row against the tongue of the piece that's already nailed up. Again, measure and cut the end to the center of a joist, making sure this time that it doesn't line up with any end-lines from the first row. Put glue on the back. Use your rubber mallet to tap the pieces together, so the groove of the new piece locks around the tongue of the previous piece. Nail the new piece by putting in one nail per joist at an angle where the tongue starts, so the nail holes aren't on the face of the board.

6. Continue across the room in this fashion until you get to the opposite end of the wall. Use your table saw to rip the final piece to size, and affix it with two nails per joist through the face. Finish by hanging ceiling trim at the edges of the ceiling all around the room.

Tags: center joist, across room, carpenter glue, ceiling with, each point

The Highest Rated Ceiling Fans

Accenting an indoor space with a ceiling can help reduce cooling bills.

Though ceiling fans won't reduce humidity or decrease air temperatures, they help circulate air and provide a refreshing breeze. These simple devices add a cost- and energy-efficient accent to central cooling systems and help maintain a comfortable environment in moderate climates. Though it is up to each consumer to determine the best ceiling fan for her particular situation, high ratings from professional organizations help make the choice a little easier.

Popular Brands

As consumers often vote with their dollars, it's sometimes worthwhile to note the most popular ceiling fan choices among the public. In a test of 19 ceiling fan models, the independent product testing organization Consumer Reports identified Hampton Bay, Harbor Breeze and Hunter as the most popular brands among consumers. In the same report, the agency noted that 52-inch diameter fans were the most popular size.

Performance

Independent ceiling fan and lighting retailer Hansen Wholesale calls the Energy Star-qualified Emerson Midway Eco the "most efficient ceiling fan ever." This fan is 300 percent more energy-efficient than the next best fan in its class. The same company recommends the Casablanca Atria for pure power. This 68-inch fan moves 9,000 cubic feet of air per minute while remaining still and silent. Hansen touts the ruggedness of Casablanca's Heritage outdoor model, noting its ability to withstand elements, including rain and snow.

Style

The professional design enthusiasts at Apartment Therapy give the Artemis model ceiling fan from Minka Aire high marks for style. This wood-bladed fan has distinct blades that wrap around the light fixture before curving outward. For smaller spaces, the same reviewers recommend the futurist design of Serien Lighting's Propeller fan. For classic styles, Apartment Therapy touts the black Harbor Breeze Classic model ceiling fan while Hansen recommends the white Casablanca Panama. Hansen also praises the ultra-modern Casablanca Stealth, noting its sleek, tilted-blade style.

Considerations

No matter what the ratings are, each individual space calls for a different type of ceiling fan. Consumer Reports recommends 42-inch fans for rooms between 144 and 225 square feet and 52-inch fans for rooms between 225 and 400 square feet. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency encourages consumers to use two small fans for rooms longer than 18 feet. Fans with the EPA's Energy Star label operate about 50 percent more efficiently than fans without the label.

Tags: fans rooms, most popular, Apartment Therapy, between square, between square feet, Consumer Reports, fans rooms between

Bathroom Wall Decor Ideas

There are multiple techniques you can employ to decorate a bathroom wall. Often, homeowners experiment with new painting techniques on their bathroom walls before applying the technique on other walls in the house. This is because a bathroom is small enough that they can easily correct any mistakes, such as bad color choices.

Sponge Painting

Apply sponge painting on your bathroom walls to add depth and texture. First, paint two coats of base color on the walls. Mix a complementary color with glaze, then pour some on a paper plate. Dip a sea sponge in the mixture, then remove excess paint before sponging the wall. Start from the upper corner of the wall going downwards then moving to the opposite corner.

Stenciling

There are plenty of stencils available from craft and home improvement stores. Choices range from scroll designs to animals, flowers, letters and anything in between. Make your own stencil if you cannot find a ready-made design you like. With stenciling, you do not have to worry about not being "artistic" enough because all you have to do is apply paint using a stenciling brush or sponge on the stencils.

Attach the stencils to the wall with blue painter's tape to keep them in place while stenciling. Make sure to wipe off excess paint from your sponge or stencil brush so that the paint will not smear underneath the stencil, which can ruin the image. Use a combination of stippling and circular motion instead of up-and-down motion to avoid smearing. Apply different shades by layering colors to add dimensions to your design. Avoid mistakes by practicing the stenciling technique on a cardboard.

Murals

Create murals to decorate your bathroom walls. Draw your scenery freehand or use layers of stencils and combine with freehand styles to make it easier to complete a mural with different images. Use a projector to copy images onto the walls to minimize mistakes. To make murals more interesting, apply them on all four sides of your walls as well as the ceilings.

Other options

Decorate bathroom walls using wallpaper borders, wallpaper, artwork (including paintings, mirrors and other pieces of art). Apply a Venetian plaster to give your walls sheen. Use gold or silver leaf to add luster to your walls. Add chair rails and shadow boxes to give more depth to your walls. Upholster your walls using fabric and embellish with buttons and tassels. Use crunched strips of gift tissue papers and decoupage them on the walls to add more interest.

Tags: your walls, bathroom walls, excess paint, walls using, your bathroom

Install A Ceilingmounted Light Fixture

Ceiling-mounted light fixtures secure to the ceiling with a metal bracket piece customized to the exact type of light fixture. To cover up the bracket and electrical wires around it, ceiling light fixtures have a decorative plate that screws into the ceiling over the bracket. You can install a new light fixture without having extensive knowledge about electrical wiring, making the installation simple for many homeowners.

Instructions

1. Turn on the old light fixture and have someone else stay in the room to tell you when it turns off. Go to the breaker box and flip the breaker switch corresponding to the room to turn the electricity to the light fixture off.

2. Remove the old fixture's shades and light bulbs to avoid breaking them when you take it off. Unscrew the retaining screws on the fixture's plate secured to the ceiling, using a screwdriver, then pull the plate away from the ceiling to reveal the electrical wires underneath.

3. Peel away any old electrical tape on the wires, then twist the wire nuts so they come free from the wires. Touch the white and black wires with the two rods on your voltage tester to ensure electricity isn't flowing through the wires. If the meter detects an electrical flow, shut off the breakers and retest it.

4. Pull the old fixture's wires through the bracket's tube and set the old fixture aside. Unscrew the retaining screws on the old bracket to remove it, then screw the new light fixture's bracket into place.

5. Adjust the new light fixture's chain, if it has one, using needle-nose pliers to open and close the links. Pull the light fixture's wires through the tube on the bracket. Match the same colored wires with each other and twist the wire nuts over the paired wires.

6. Secure the wire nuts in place by wrapping electrical tape around the wires and the wire nuts. Screw the new fixture's plate to the ceiling, then install the light bulbs and shades on the light fixture. Flip the breaker switch back to the "On" position and turn the new light on.

Tags: light fixture, wire nuts, breaker switch, electrical tape, electrical wires, fixture plate, fixture wires

Install A False Floor Support System

A false floor in a room is a type of temporary floor that is installed over the top of an existing floor or a sub-floor in a building. This type of floor requires a support system that needs to be secured to the floor. To install the false floor in a room you will need to first prepare the existing floor or sub-floor for the support system. However, you need to determine which type of false floor or access floor that you want to install.

Instructions

1. Determine the dimensions of the room using the tape measure. Make a note of the length and width of the room.

2. Extend a chalk line from the corner of one wall to the corner of the opposite wall. Snap the chalk line to mark the floor. Repeat this step at the opposite corner to make an "X" on the floor. This is to verify that the room is square.

3. Extend the chalk line from the center of one wall to the center of another wall. Snap a chalk line on the floor. Repeat this step on a perpendicular wall for two control lines.

4. Align the pedestal assemblies on the floor in rows every two feet. Use the control lines from Step 3 as a guide.

5. Place a leveling bar over a row of pedestal assemblies and then set a level on the bar. Make adjustments to the pedestal assemblies if needed to ensure that they are the proper height.

6. Lift up the edge of the pedestal assemblies and apply floor adhesive to the bottom by using the plastic scraper. This secures the pedestal assembly to the sub-floor.

7. Attach stringers or framing to the top of the pedestal assemblies, if applicable. Lay the first access floor panel along the longest wall. Lay the next four rows of the flooring so they extend out from the wall.

8. Lay the next four floor panels so they are perpendicular to the first four rows. Repeat this process until you have a square or rectangle-shaped section.

9. Place the level on the edge of the flooring to verify that it is straight. Continue laying the new rows of flooring until you have finished the access floor.

Tags: pedestal assemblies, chalk line, access floor, Repeat this, chalk line from

Cut Crown Molding On An Outside Corner With A Miter Saw

Learning to successfully cut crown molding on an outside corner with your miter saw will help you achieve a polished look in your decor. Crown molding adds architectural detail, which adds value to your home. Though it's considered a difficult task for an amateur carpenter, it's possible if you pay close attention to detail.

Instructions

1. Measure your wall from outside corner to outside corner. This measurement is what you will use to make your final cuts to create a snug-fitting section of crown molding.

2. Select a length of crown molding that is longer than your measurement from Step 1.

3. Set your miter saw to cut a 90-degree angle in the wood.

4. Place your crown molding into the miter box upside down. The bottom of the crown molding needs to be against the back of your miter box to make a successful outside corner cut. Think of the bottom of the miter box as your ceiling and the back wall of the miter box as your wall. This will help you make sense of the cut.

5. Nail your crown molding into place.

6. Sink the nails below the surface of your crown molding using a nail set.

7. Fill any cracks, gaps or nail holes with wood filler and paint, or stain your crown molding to suit your decor.

Tags: crown molding, your crown, your crown molding, outside corner, your miter, crown molding

Make Designs In Drywall

Transform walls with texture.

Drywall is a practical surfacing material for walls inside a home. It is a durable material that offers many final surfacing possibilities including paint, wallpaper and texture finishes. Creating a textured finish can disguise mistakes and small areas of damage. Designs in drywall mimic the effects of plaster artisans. Making your own pattern allows you to fashion a personalized finish and transform a flat surface into a 3-D focal point.

Instructions

Rough Texture

1. Equip a power drill with a mixing-paddle bit.

2. Fill a bucket halfway with drywall joint compound. Place the mixing paddle into the joint compound and turn the drill on. Add water slowly while mixing the joint compound and water until the joint compound takes on the consistency of paint.

3. Pour the thinned joint compound into a paint roller tray. Cover the remaining, unused portion of the joint compound to prevent it from drying out.

4. Roll a half-inch nap paint roller through the thinned joint compound. Roll the thinned compound onto the walls in a random pattern until you cover the entire wall. Dab at corners with the roller to fill in difficult-to-reach areas. Allow the drywall joint compound to dry for 10 to 15 minutes or until the surface is no longer shiny. Roll on a second coat if desired for more texture. Repeat for each wall.

Circular Pattern Finish

5. Apply a quarter-inch layer of joint compound over a section of the wall, from floor to ceiling and 3 to 4 feet wide, with a 12-inch drywall knife.

6. Place a paint-graining comb up against the wet joint compound at a 45-degree angle and press it in one-eighth inch. Turn the comb 360 degrees to create a circle. Place the comb on the outer edge of the arc of the circle; twist your wrist to turn the comb to touch another outer edge of the circle. Continue to create circles in the joint compound until circles cover the section.

7. Apply a quarter-inch layer of joint compound over another section of the wall, from floor to ceiling, 3 to 4 feet wide and abutted to the first section. Drag circles through the compound using the same method as you did for the first section. Overlap circles along the seam of the first and second sections to create a one-piece finished effect.

8. Continue to apply joint compound and create circles until the pattern covers all walls.

Curved Pattern Finish

9. Spread a quarter-inch layer of joint compound from floor to ceiling on one wall with a 12-inch drywall knife.

10. Position the notches of a trowel at a 45-degree angle, and press the notches into the compound one-eighth inch.

11. Pull the notches through the compound in wide, sweeping random arcs over the entire wall. Do not overlap the arcs because the joint compound will collect in the overlapping lines and look messy.

12. Apply a quarter-inch layer of joint compound to the second wall, and create arcs over the face of the wall. Continue to apply joint compound, and create arcs one wall at a time.

Stippling Designs

13. Equip a power drill with a mixer paddle bit.

14. Fill a bucket halfway with joint compound. Add water while mixing the joint compound with the mixing paddle until the joint compound has the consistency of a milkshake.

15. Spread the mixture over one wall with a trowel to form a quarter-inch layer.

16. Wet a sea sponge or texturing paintbrush with plain water.

17.Dab the sponge or brush at the wall in a pattern or randomly. You can also press the brush or sponge into the compound and twist or drag the sponge or brush through the compound to leave a design.

Tags: joint compound, quarter-inch layer, layer joint, layer joint compound, quarter-inch layer joint, Apply quarter-inch, Apply quarter-inch layer

Diy Remove Popcorn Ceiling For An Orange Peel Look

DIY: Remove Popcorn Ceiling for an Orange Peel Look

"Popcorn" ceilings which were popularized in the 1970s and '80s have fallen out of vogue. Anyone with a few basic tools and ability to do physical labor can remove a popcorn ceiling. Then you can create an "orange peel" look with a special texture sprayer.

Asbestos Caution

Determine if asbestos was used on your ceiling. When "popcorn" ceilings became widely used in the 1970s, contractors sometimes added asbestos to the spray mixture. Removing material containing asbestos is a hazardous task and it is highly recommended that it only be undertaken by professionals.

If you decide to proceed yourself, first check for any state regulations on the removal of asbestos. You may have to purchase a permit for both the removal and disposal of the material. All precautionary guidelines of the regulations must be carefully followed.

Determining if your ceiling contains asbestos involves removing a 1-inch square sample and having it tested by a laboratory. This is a relatively inexpensive test and well worth the investment. Find a laboratory by doing an online search for "asbestos consulting and testing." Even if the sample is negative, it is advisable to have one or two other samples tested as a precautionary measure.

Remove Popcorn Texture

Removing the "popcorn" ceiling is a messy, labor intensive job, though no specialized skills or tools are needed. All furniture and decorations should be moved out of the room. Cover electrical outlets with masking tape to prevent dust from getting into them. The floor and the walls should be covered heavy plastic sheeting.

Always wear a dust mask and safety goggles when removing texture.

You can use a garden sprayer to wet down the texture. The idea is to wet the texture without soaking through to the sheetrock. Several light passes will work better to accomplish this rather than one heavy spraying.

Use a wide blade scraper to remove the texture. This process of wetting and scraping may result in damage to the underlying sheetrock and you will need to be prepared to repair any damaged areas. The wetting process also may loosen the joint tape or uncover the nail heads used to attach the sheetrock to the joints. Use joint compound to repair any damage.

Apply Orange Peel Texture

You can apply orange peel texture with a texture sprayer that you can rent at most rental shops or purchase at most lumberyards. These sprayers work best when combined with texture created specifically for sprayers. Follow the instructions which come with the sprayer and the texture carefully.

Operating a texture sprayer is similar to using a garden hose. It is a good idea to do a test sample of a scrap piece of sheetrock to determine how heavy of a coat you want to use before proceeding to spray your ceiling. You may want to spray several sample areas differently to compare the final look of each. Normally a thin, light coat creates the best appearance.

Once you have mastered the technique on your sample board, you are ready to spray your ceiling. There is no one "right" look when it comes to orange peel texture. What is important is what looks good to you.

Tags: your ceiling, texture sprayer, Ceiling Orange, Ceiling Orange Peel, Orange Peel

Paint High Ceilings

Safety is a major factor when painting high ceilings

Painting a high ceiling can involve working in difficult heights. Using large ladders and even scaffolding may be necessary to reach all surfaces. Caution is always required when working with ladders and scaffolding. Painting a high ceiling will take longer than many paint projects because of the height of the project and prep work required.

Instructions

Paint High Ceilings

1. Measure the distance from the floor to ceiling. If a ladder can be used, consider that the top two rungs are never safe on which to stand. The average painter can reach two feet above his or her own height when painting. If a ladder cannot safely be used, consider renting scaffolding. The scaffolding can be rented and delivered in most local areas. Many times, the rental company will make an on-site visit to recommend the proper amount of scaffolding needed. Always rent and use safety rails when using scaffolding.

2. Lay drop cloths on all floor areas. Remove all furniture and additional items from rooms. Cover any remaining items, including window treatments, with plastic. When painting horizontal surfaces, paint can easily fly off of rollers, and occasionally drip.

3. Using painter's tape, tape off recessed lighting, ceiling fan and other fixtures found in the ceiling. Burnish the tape by pressing down to ensure good adhesion.

4. Trim out the perimeter of the ceiling area. Taping off the ceiling edge with painter's tape prior to painting is optional. To trim, use an angled brush that has been dipped in paint. Slowly glide the edge of the brush along the ceiling edge. Only the tip of the brush will cut into the edge to make a straight line. If necessary, tape of the ceiling edge with painter's tape prior to painting. Make a 3" band around the perimeter.

5. Roll ceiling paint using a roller and extension pole. Extension poles allow more control for the painter, and ease potential strain on back muscles. Roll in two- to four-foot vertical or horizontal sections. Step onto the ground floor to ensure all areas are properly covered. For dark colors or heavily textured ceilings, an additional coat may be required. Allow two to four hours of drying time between each paint coat.

6. Remove tape when painting is completed. Remove the tape slowly, and do not force tape to be pulled. For difficult-to-remove tape, cut the edge of tape with a rasor knife. Clear drop cloths and plastic sheeting from the room.

Tags: ceiling edge, painter tape, ceiling edge with, drop cloths, edge with, edge with painter

Take Down A Drop Ceiling Panel

Ceiling panels must be removed to gain access to hidden wiring.

Drop ceilings may look attractive --- until you have to replace one or more panels. Removing a panel from a drop ceiling may look easy, but it must be done in a certain way. Regardless of the type of drop ceiling you have, the panels are removable, allowing for cleaning or replacement. Checking the panels occasionally also ensures that nothing is trapped or damaged above the ceiling.

Instructions

1. Stand a ladder underneath the panel you want to take down. Climb the ladder to the second step from the top. The ladder may become unstable, and the chance of injury increases beyond this height.

2. Place your hands palms up on the face of the panel. Position your hands near the edges. Make sure your hands are across from each other to keep the panel level. Push up on the panel with both hands simultaneously.

3. Lift the panel until it clears the framework completely.

4. Move the panel partially either forward or backward. Flip the panel while holding it so the narrow side faces you.

5. Spin the sideways panel so the narrow end is facing you. If the panel is square, proceed to Step 7; otherwise, skip to Step 8.

6. Position the panel so the corners of the panel run perpendicular to the opposing corners of the framework. The bottom edge of the panel should form a line between the opposing corners of the framework.

7. Position the panel so the short end runs parallel to the longer sides of the framework.

8. Bring the panel back down through the hole. Keep the panel centered as you lower it. Lower the panel until it clears the framework.

9. Lower the panel down the ladder to a soft surface, or hand it off to an assistant. Doing so avoids damaging the panel if you intend to reuse it.

10. Climb down the ladder, holding it with both hands to avoid accidentally slipping or falling.

Tags: your hands, both hands, clears framework, corners framework, down ladder

Homemade Baffles For A Cathedral Ceiling

A cathedral ceiling.

Baffles are usually used to reduce reverberation or vibration of sound from bouncing around in a room. Rooms with vaulted or cathedral ceilings tend to have more issues with echoing and sound reflection. Many commercial facilities use baffles to absorb and reduce the sound. You can create your own type of baffles that will give effective reduction of sound in a room with a cathedral ceiling.

Ceilings

The key to sound reduction in any room is to have objects that reflect and absorb the sound. For cathedral ceilings, hanging decorative tapestries, quilts or swooping drapes across the ceiling in a few areas of the room will greatly reduce the noise. Industrial buildings use baffles that are made of absorbent material and the baffles are patterned across the ceiling of the building in rows or designs. This same idea can be done by using cork, felt or other material and creating a unique art design on the ceiling that will give both a decorative flare plus a soundproofing effect.

Another idea for baffles on the ceiling is to create the type of horizontal lined material that commercial buildings use, but create your own. Use cloth vertical window blinds to hang in rows across the cathedral ceiling. They could be left opened or closed and individually hung, or kept on the frame together and attached to the ceiling from both top and bottom of the blinds. Add some dried flower arrangements or other artistic décor across the top and bottom borders of the blinds to finish the look. Anything hung on the ceiling will need to be safely secured so it doesn't fall on anyone.

Walls/Windows

The same artistic idea can be brought to the walls as used on the ceiling by hanging quilts, tapestries and other art work. If you have large wall areas, place a family heirloom quilt, old military uniform or other inherited treasures in a custom frame on your wall for a beautiful memoir that will help fill the walls and reduce the noise.

Windows should be covered with blinds or curtains to reduce the noise in the room. Using both cloth window shades and drapes will deaden the sound vibration all the more. If you want to get real aggressive with your soundproofing, apply acoustical caulk around all windows, doors, electrical boxes and any woodwork that touches the floor. This caulk stays flexible for long periods of time and will help stop the noise from bouncing around the room.

Floors/Furniture

Carpet with a thick pad will reduce a lot of noise. If you have wood or bare floors, place several area rugs in the room. Furniture placed in a room will create less of an echo than an empty room. If money is scarce, shop thrift stores and garage sales for some deals on furniture and cover them with slip covers. Buy or make wall bookshelves to fill more of the space. The more furniture placed in a room, the less sound vibration you will get.

Tags: reduce noise, that will, across ceiling, around room, baffles that, bouncing around

Diy Bathroom Design

Making your bathroom into your own personal sanctuary is exciting. The prospect of doing it yourself and on a budget can keep you putting it off for decades. Doing your own bathroom design starts with a good plan, and using DIY resources offered at hardware stores to learn what you can do yourself and what might be best outsourced.

Design Your Dream Bathroom

It may be your dream to knock a wall down and expand the bathroom, install a tub separate from a shower and make a two-sink vanity. Whatever your dream bathroom is, put it on paper and list what materials and labor are needed to make it happen. As much fun as this is, remember that you are setting a starting point by designing your own perfect bathroom retreat. The next step is researching cost.

Budgeting

Take your design from Section 1 and look for wholesale prices on materials. Inquire with retail suppliers about classes to teach you to install tile, toilets and tubs. Discuss with a contractor what your dream bathroom would cost. Get several quotes and have them break down the total cost by labor and materials. While labor is a considerable cost, finding your own supply of materials may greatly reduce the quote. As you discover the real cost of your bathroom, look at the actual cost you can--or are willing to--spend on the bathroom.

Revise the Design

Revise the design based on cost and budget considerations. You might want the granite counter more than the heated towel rack and shower jets. Once you know what you are budgeting for the remodel, you can prioritize the things in your original design. The money might best be spent on expanding the room so that you can later add the other luxuries without doing the work, thus the expense, twice.

Tags: your bathroom, your dream, dream bathroom, might best, your dream bathroom

The Best Commercial Kitchen Flow Floorplan Ideas

A well designed commercial kitchen will have a safe and efficient layout.

Commercial kitchens are installed in restaurants or catering establishments as a way to efficiently cook and store large amounts of food. These areas are generally divided into work stations to make sure movement is fluid and that cross contamination does not occur. Because of its large scale, efficiency and ergonomics are key considerations to a commercial kitchen. The layout will depend largely on the size and shape of the kitchen area, but there are a few traditional layouts that work well and have enough flexibility to fit individual needs.

Important Considerations

Prior to tackling the kitchen design, a menu should be established. This will aid in selecting the equipment needed, which will dictate some of the layout. Proper layout will help optimize positive attributes of a space while minimizing the negative, a trick that is essential to having a properly functioning kitchen. Space limitations can be a serious problem, and are common in older locations. Use a small space to help minimize menu options and select proportional equipment. Safety, including proper lighting and space to move freely is another consideration, which goes hand in hand with ergonomics, often the prime consideration of kitchen design. Creating a safe space while eliminating wasted time and energy will keep employees happy, and prevent injuries and fatigue.

Ergonomic Layout

An ergonomic layout is a strictly functional setup, one that has equipment arranged in the best way for the chef and kitchen staff. The placement of equipment doesn't take energy efficiency into account. One example, given by foodservicewarehouse.com, is placing an undercounter freezer underneath or next to a fryer. Though not the most energy efficient idea, fried foods make the trip from freezer to fryer without the chef having to take any physical steps. This layout may require additional equipment, and may take up more space than a more focused design.

Assembly-Line Layout

An assembly line style has equipment and stations set up in order of use. It is especially helpful in a pizza kitchen or sandwich shop where lots of similar food is produced. Everything is, for the most part, in a straight line, and moves smoothly from one step of production to another. This is a highly efficient design, both in time consideration and in ergonomics, and may be adjusted to fit in small locations. Keep in mind it is not ideal for all types of food prep, particularly in a diverse restaurant setting where many different dishes are prepared.

Zone Layout

One of the most widely used kitchen designs, the zone layout has work stations that are separated. Food preparation, cooking, refrigeration and an ice station are all separate parts of the kitchen. It is an ideal setup in a kitchen where several different meats are used, or in a restaurant with a diverse menu. In this kitchen design, cross contamination is all but eliminated, dirty dishes and garbage never come into contact with food prep areas, and chefs work at a single station, which eliminates unnecessary movement around the kitchen. This style may be adapted for small or large kitchens, and may incorporate two or more food prep blocks as required.

Tags: food prep, kitchen design, cross contamination, layout will, space while

Proper Height Of A Chandelier

Proper Height of a Chandelier

A chandelier should provide a flattering look to your room and your table (or other setting). You need to consider both the size (height) of the chandelier and the size of the table or entry hall. There are different height recommendations for dining room chandeliers than for chandeliers in an entry hall.

Entry or Foyer

An entry chandelier should allow for at least 6.5 feet from the floor to the bottom of the chandelier; decoratingstudio.com recommends 7 feet from the floor to prevent a tall person from bumping into the chandelier. If you have an extremely high ceiling, you can hang the chandelier 7.5 feet from the floor. The height of the chandelier itself corresponds to about 2.5 to 3 inches for each foot of the ceiling height. For example, if your ceiling is 10 feet high, you should limit your chandelier height to about 25 to 30 inches. Hang the chandelier in the center of the room.

Dining Room

Hang your dining room chandelier between 30 and 34 inches from the tabletop for a standard 8-foot table. Hang the chandelier 3 inches higher for each additional foot of ceiling height. The chandelier should hang over the center of the table. If the table is rectangular or oval, the chandelier should be at least 12 inches narrower than the table itself. If you have a round or square table, the chandelier should be 18 inches smaller than the tabletop. Your chandelier should be no more than about half the width of the table. In simpler terms, if your table is 48 inches square, then your chandelier should be no more than 24 inches wide. If you have a rectangular table that is 50 inches wide, then your chandelier should be no more than 25 inches wide.

Tips

Pick a chandelier that fits your style and the rest of your house. You probably don't want to mix ultramodern with an Early American style. Consider adding a dimming switch to your chandelier for ease of turning the lights on and off. Lampsplus.com also suggests using a low wattage bulb. Better Homes and Gardens offers a handy online calculator to help you determine your dining room chandelier height. You simply enter the width and length (in inches) of the dining room space, and click "calculate." Based upon your input, you will be provided with a figure that includes the recommended maximum diameter of the chandelier.

Tags: chandelier should, dining room, your chandelier, chandelier should more, feet from, feet from floor

Install Drop Ceiling Lighting Fixtures

An overhead light fixture provides illumination without taking up floor or table space. To install a light fixture in a drop ceiling, assemble supplies from a hardware store and tools commonly found around the house. You must know turn the electricity off in the room where the light fixture is being installed. No special mechanical skills are needed.

Instructions

1. Trip the circuit breaker at the fuse box to discontinue electric power to the room with the drop ceiling.

2. Place a ladder beneath the drop ceiling. Raise one of the ceiling tiles so you can peek into the ceiling's crawl space. Aim the beam of a flashlight into the crawl space to locate an electrical junction box connected to the ceiling. Replace the tile. Raise the tile beneath the electrical junction box. Pull the tile out from the sides of the slats that crisscross the ceiling.

3. Place the tile face down on a work table. Place the base of the light fixture on the center of the tile. Draw a circle on the tile around the base of the light fixture with a pencil. Place the light fixture aside.

4. Cut out the circle with a utility knife. Smooth the inside edges of the circle with the edge of a piece of fine-grit sandpaper.

5. Place the light fixture on the work table with the base facing up. Hold the tile with the side that faces the floor above the fixture's base. Push the base of the light fixture through the hole in the tile.

6. Strip 1/2 inch of insulation from the ends of the wires attached to the base of the light fixture, using the wire strippers.

7. Wind the exposed ends of the wires attached to the light fixture around the exposed ends of the wires attached to the electrical junction box in the following manner: the black wires together and the white wires together. Place a screw-tab connector on each pair of twisted wires.

8. Loosen the single screw at a corner of the electrical junction box with a Phillips screwdriver. Wind the exposed end of the remaining wire from the light fixture around the screw. Tighten the screw.

9. Turn a metal screw through the top and bottom of the light fixture and into the top and bottom screw holes on the electrical junction box, using a Phillips screwdriver.

10. Push the tile up the length of the fixture until it is even with the other tiles. Angle one side of the tile into position in the space it originally occupied. Angle the other side of the tile so that it is also in the space originally occupied.

11. Screw a light bulb into the socket of the light fixture. Place the ladder aside. Return the electric power at the fuse box.

Tags: light fixture, electrical junction, base light, base light fixture, drop ceiling

What Are New Bathroom Sinks Made Of

Modern bathroom sinks are made of many different materials.

New bathroom sinks are made from a variety of different materials, such as vitreous china, stainless steel, marble and granite. Each material varies in durability and appearance and can lend a fresh look to any bathroom.

Durability

Bathroom sinks constructed from materials like stainless steel and copper are more durable and resistant to collisions, while those made from fragile materials such as vitreous china and fireclay are more likely to be damaged upon impact.

Scratches

Scratches make bathroom sinks look less appealing. Sinks made from stainless steel, copper and vitreous china are less likely to be scratched, while pottery sinks, enameled cast iron sinks and composite sinks are scratched more easily.

Cleaning

Bathroom sinks made from stainless steel and copper are the easiest to clean, while sinks made from delicate materials like porcelain can be damaged by some cleaning materials.

Availability

Most types of bathroom sinks are easy to find at any hardware store, but pottery sinks and stone sinks are made in smaller quantities and are often difficult to locate.

Appearance

Stainless steel and marble bathroom sinks offer a more modern look, while copper sinks offer an older, more rustic appearance. Pottery and fireclay sinks offer a distinct and creative look.

Tags: made from, sinks made, bathroom sinks, sinks made from, sinks offer, stainless steel

Install A Popcorn Ceiling With A Roller

Add texture to a boring smooth ceiling.

Textured popcorn ceilings insulate a room, absorb sound and break up the monotonous look of smooth ceilings. Typically, popcorn ceiling installers use a spray gun and hopper to force the perlite "popcorn" onto the ceiling. This method requires nonprofessionals to rent a spray gun specifically for the purpose of popcorn ceiling installation. Ceiling texture paint allows you to easily apply perlite popcorn to your ceiling manually with a roller so you can avoid costly equipment rentals.

Instructions

1. Cover all flooring and furniture with sheets or tarps. Put on a painting suit and protective eye goggles.

2. Stir the primer paint and pour it into a paint pan. Slide a short-nap roller onto a paint roller frame and extension. Roll the paint roller in the primer and then roll it onto the ribbed area of the paint pan to remove any excess primer.

3. Apply a coat of primer to the ceiling to cover any stains, using a back-and-forth motion. Allow the primer to dry. Rinse the primer off the paint pan and roller.

4. Stir the textured paint and pour it into a paint pan. Apply a thin coat of textured paint, using a damp short-nap roller in a back-and-forth motion, working on one 4-foot by 4-foot section at a time. Allow this coat to dry for five minutes.

5. Slide a looped texture paint roller onto a paint roller frame and extension. Apply a second coat of textured paint in a slow back-and-forth motion, working on one 4-foot by 4-foot section at a time.

Tags: paint roller, back-and-forth motion, textured paint, 4-foot 4-foot, 4-foot 4-foot section, 4-foot section, 4-foot section time

Can A Room Be Framed Without Removing The Ceiling Drywall

Planning a room remodel might require adding partition walls.

Fastening a new wall frame to an existing house frame doesn't necessarily require removal of the existing wall and ceiling coverings. The new wall must fasten securely to the framing on the ceiling, the walls and the floor. When that is accomplished without removing the drywall, it reduces work and makes the installation easier and less expensive.

Wall Framing

Partition walls divide space into separate rooms. The frame consists of studs, usually set 16 or 24 inches apart, between a top and bottom plate. A partition wall does not support any weight, and removing the drywall is not necessary.

Weight-bearing walls have two top plates instead of one, and help support the house. Never install weight-bearing walls without removing the drywall, since drywall is unsuitable for supporting a load. You would encounter this situation if moving a weight-bearing wall a short distance.

Anchoring Walls

The drywall that sheaths a wall will crack at the joints between the wall and ceiling and between adjoining walls if the wall can move. Anchoring the wall to the floor, the ceiling and adjoining walls prevents movement. A wall anchored to the floor and adjoining walls will still flex along the ceiling unless it is anchored to the joists.

If the partition wall is easily fastened to the ceiling joists, such as when the joists are perpendicular to the wall or a joist runs parallel and directly over the wall, there's no need to remove the drywall. Anchor the wall's top plate to the ceiling joists with 3 1/2-inch wood screws or 16d framing nails.

Perpendicular Joists

Partition walls are usually framed laying flat on the floor, rather than standing up. Anchoring the wall to perpendicular joists is easy. Once the wall frame is complete, the frame is stood up, plumbed with a level and fastened to the floor, the adjoining walls and ceiling joists. A stud finder will locate the ceiling joists for placement of the nails or screws that anchor the wall to the ceiling without removing the drywall.

Parallel Joists

Parallel joists can present a problem. Either the wall frame must sit directly under a joist so the wall fastens to the joist, or framing between joists is necessary for anchoring the wall to the ceiling. If the ceiling joists are not located exactly where you want the wall, shifting the wall location 8 to 12 inches in either direction to sit under a joist is one remedy. Removing the ceiling drywall and adding blocks between the joists for anchoring the wall frame is another. The choice is based on your preference -- either altering the position of the wall or tearing down the existing drywall to add the blocks between the joists.

Tags: ceiling joists, adjoining walls, removing drywall, wall ceiling, wall frame, between joists

Design A Long Narrow Living Room

Furnishing a long, narrow room takes a creative approach to room design.

Furnishing and decorating a long, narrow room isn't as difficult a task as it might seem. Flooring, wall colors, the number of windows, height of the ceiling and your personal "living space" choices are all parts of the equation. Your biggest decision will be what living areas you want to create in the long, narrow space. The best scenario is to begin with a totally vacant room and build on it. If that isn't an option, begin with what you have and design around it.

Instructions

Living Spaces Dictate Your Design

1. Decide what living spaces you want to include in your room design. If a dining room is one of the options, your dining furniture should be close to the kitchen. Other spaces may include a formal sitting area and a media center, music area or reading space. Several configurations can be incorporated into a long, narrow room and each can be made to feel like a separate room.

2. Choose one type of flooring for the entire room. Whether you select wood, tile, carpeting or stone, the key is to keep the color light. The entire room should have the same base fabrication. Don't create your divisions with the flooring. Instead add area rugs. They become the center of each living area you design within one room.

3. Buy furniture that has a "see through" quality. Choose side chairs with legs instead of bases and dining room sets that are light in design and color, with chairs that the eye can pass through and a table base with spindle legs open up a room. You should avoid creating solid furniture barriers within this living space.

4. Paint all the walls of your long, narrow room the same light color. Use artwork to visually separate the living areas and create a division of space. If the ceiling is high, use a shade darker for the ceiling. Add crown molding and paint it the same shade as the ceiling so that it blends but still catches the eye decoratively. If you want a statement wall, an end wall is best. A shock of color mid-space only stops the eye and consciously separates the spaces.

5. Decorate your windows with the same look throughout. Long, flowing drapery fabrics add elegance, but stay away from boxed valances since they make stopping spots as the eye travels the length of the room. Fabric Roman shades add texture and are fitted within the window frame. Wood or metal mini-blinds are also unobtrusive.

6. Use pieces of furniture as space dividers. To separate your dining area from its adjacent space, find an open-based side table and place it perpendicular to the wall. A large, silk flower arrangement adds color and keeps the eye within the dining space. Continuing into the room, the next area should be placed on the side opposite the dining room. Don't put all the weight of the furnishings on one wall throughout. Use an Asian screen or a large potted plant as a separator. Float the chairs away from the wall. The space furthest into the room can be designed with the furniture centered. A sectional or circular sofa can face a media stand that's placed on the farthest wall. In this arrangement the back of the sofa creates a room division.

Tags: long narrow, long narrow room, narrow room, dining room, away from

Fix A Broken Light Pull Chain On A Ceiling Fan

A ceiling fan light's pull chain may need annual replacement.

The ceiling fan light is often the main source of lighting in a room, and the light on the fan usually operates with a pull chain. Constantly pulling on the light pull chain to turn the light on and off can eventually break the switch. Pull-chain switches are made of plastic and universally sized to fit in any ceiling fan. Because of the inexpensive construction of the switch, replacing the switch often can be an annual task.

Instructions

1. Disconnect the electricity to the ceiling fan at the main breaker panel. Turn off the breaker that supplies electricity to the circuit.

2. Remove the screws from the switch housing cap, using the appropriate screwdriver, to expose the wiring for the pull-chain switch. The switch housing is located beneath the ceiling fan blades and holds the light fixture to the fan.

3. Remove the retaining nut from the light pull chain on the ceiling fan. Depending on the manufacturer of your ceiling fan, the pull chain for the light may attach to the switch housing cap at the very bottom of the fan, or it may attach through the wall of the switch housing. The retaining nut holds the pull-chain switch in place.

4. Remove the ceiling fan light fixture by disconnecting the wires. Untwist the wire connectors joining the white wire from the light to the white wire from the fan. Untwist the wire connector holding a black wire from the light's pull chain to either a black wire with a white stripe or a blue wire. These wires identify the light wires, and the wire color depends on the manufacturer of the fan. Move the ceiling fan light fixture to a sturdy work surface.

5. Remove the remaining wire connector that joins the remaining black wire from the pull chain switch to the black wire from the ceiling fan light.

6. Attach a black wire from the replacement pull-chain switch to the black wire from the ceiling fan light, using the twist-on wire connector you removed from the original pull-chain switch.

7. Insert the threaded throat of the replacement pull chain switch through the opening in the switch housing wall or the switch housing cap. Thread the pull chain from the switch through the retaining nut and twist it to the throat of the switch.

8. Connect the white wire from the ceiling fan light fixture to the white wire from the ceiling fan, twisting a wire connector over the paired ends. Connect the light wire from the ceiling fan to the remaining black wire from the pull chain switch in the same manner.

9. Reattach the switch housing cap to the switch housing. Turn on the breaker that supplies electricity to the ceiling fan circuit.

Tags: wire from, pull chain, switch housing, black wire, ceiling light

Grout Beveled Tile

Beveled tiles, such as polished granite, grout the same as all other tiles.

When it comes to grouting tile there are a variety of types you may come up against, ranging from rectified tiles, such as ceramic, that have a refined and straight edge, to tumbled marbles that have no straight edges and instead rely on natural flaws in their size as part of their beauty. Polished granite tile is one of the most common types of tile installed that have a beveled edge, and the installation method is exactly the same as it is for any other tile project.

Instructions

1. Pour the dry mix into the bucket first and then add sufficient water based upon the instructions included on the manufacturer's container -- different types and sizes of bags require different amounts of water. Use a margin trowel to blend the dry mix together with the water and let it sit for 10 minutes to activate the chemicals in the grout. Mix it one more time.

2. Spread the grout over the joints you want to fill. Hold the grout float at a roughly 45-degree angle while you apply pressure to the float handle and force the grout into the joints between the tiles. Pull the grout across the joints from multiple angles to ensure they are sufficiently full, and remove the excess grout for cleaning.

3. Wait 20 minutes before cleaning the surface of the tile. Fill a bucket with water and dampen the tile sponge; do not let it get any wetter than just damp. Lightly move the sponge in circular motions across the joints to remove excess grout and smooth the joints over. Rinse the sponge out frequently. Rough-wash the floor and change out your water.

4. Wait another 30 minutes before final washing of the floor. Dampen the sponge and pull it diagonally across the face of the tile and the joints. Apply only enough pressure to remove the final film of grout off the face of the tile, as too much pressure will dig out the joints. Rinse your sponge out frequently and let the installation dry for at least 72 hours before allowing foot traffic.

Tags: that have, across joints, excess grout, face tile, minutes before

Decorate A Western Or Cowboy Bathroom

Decorating your bathroom in a Western or cowboy theme can be fun and different. From cowboy hats to horseshoes, there are several various pieces of Western and cowboy decor to choose from that can give your room the exact strong and rustic vibe you are looking for. Whether you create some of the decor yourself or purchase it, it can turn your plain bathroom into an intriguing Western or cowboy room.

Instructions

1. Opt for a light beige or cream-colored paint for the walls. When you think of Western scenes, you most likely envision an exorbitant amount of brown and neutral colors. A cream color or a light tan will work well on the walls and with the decor in the rest of the room.

2. Put out towels with horse embellishments. If you cannot find towels with horses on them, you can create your own. Go to your local craft store and choose appliqués that you can attach onto the bottom of plain cream or tan-colored towels.

3. Hang a cowboy hat on the back of the door. If you do not want to buy an expensive cowboy hat, you can purchase an inexpensive one from a yard sale or an online auction site. It can hang up easily on the hook on the back of the door and make for an interesting focal piece of decor in the room.

4. Use horseshoes as decorations. You can put a few on top of the toilet tank and hang a couple on the walls. Should you want to add a bit of extra storage, buy a natural wood box from a craft store and, using metal glue, adhere a horseshoe on the top of the box. Using metal glue, you can also adhere a horseshoe onto a plain towel ring to give it a more Western feel.

5. Use a pair of cowboy boots for toilet paper storage. Buy a pair of very large cowboy boots and put your toilet paper inside. It can keep the toilet paper clean and out of sight. The cowboy boots can act as an interesting piece of decor to have in a bathroom.

6. Choose a shower curtain that complements the decor. There are plenty that have a wide variety of Western decor on them, such as horses, cowboys, cowboy boots or horseshoes. Whatever scenery or pattern is on the shower curtain, make sure that the colors do not clash with the rest of the colors in the room.

7. Hang Western or cowboy-inspired artwork. To add a few interesting pieces into the room, look for old photographs that are black and white or in sepia tone on auction sites or in antique stores. Hang the framed photographs on the wall for an interesting touch. You can also hang prints of horses running free, a poster print of an old Western movie or a painting of a cowboy.

Tags: cowboy boots, toilet paper, adhere horseshoe, back door, craft store, metal glue

Cut Wood Paneling

The finished side of wood paneling can splinter while being cut.

Sheet wood paneling is a durable wall covering that comes in a wide variety of styles and colors. When you are cutting a sheet of wood paneling to size, you want to ensure you don't damage the finished side of the paneling during the cutting process. The type of saw you use will determine which side of the wood paneling you place up for the cut.

Instructions

1. Set the sawhorses parallel to each other, 5 feet apart.

2. Span the two sawhorses with a piece of wood paneling. If you intend to use a circular saw to cut the wood paneling to length, place the finished side of the paneling facedown. If you are using a jigsaw to cut the wood paneling, set the wood paneling with the finished side facing up.

3. Place two marks on the up side of the wood paneling by measuring along one edge of the wood with the tape measure and marking the length with the carpenter's pencil. Mark the other edge of the wood the same way.

4. Lay one end of the chalk line on one of the marks you made with the carpenter's pencil. Lock the end of the chalk line in place by holding the chalk line to the wood paneling with the self-locking pliers.

5. Pull the chalk line tight across the surface of the wood paneling, in alignment with the second mark. With one hand holding the chalk line against the second mark, pull the tight line up and snap a line across the panel. Release the self-locking pliers and remove the chalk line from the wood paneling.

6. Put on your safety glasses.

7. Cut along the chalk line with either the circular saw or the jigsaw.

8. Sand the cut edge with 120-grit sandpaper to remove the wood splinters left by the cutting process.

Tags: wood paneling, chalk line, finished side, wood paneling, side wood

Design A Modern Miniature House

Modern interiors make for an unusual doll house design.

As any doll house enthusiast knows, traditional doll house designs tend towards the antique, not only in house design but also in the decorating of interiors and the selection of furnishings and miniature objects within. Creating a more contemporary doll house design is therefore a good way to be original, but also more challenging in that it requires a hobbyist to think outside the box and look a bit harder for appropriate miniature styles.

Instructions

1. Choose an era for your dollhouse's design. Select an exact date, or just a decade, and use pictures from this time as a guide while you decide design the interior, exterior and items inside the house. Also, use this date to decide which modern items you will place in the dollhouse by checking to make sure the items you choose to include were invented by that time.

2. Select a style of modern or contemporary architecture. For the most quintessential contemporary look, consider designs that are similar to those of Frank Lloyd Wright or inspired by this type of aesthetic. This will mean large, open spaces and horizontal lines and planes, with large windows and rectangular vertical planes being emphasized. (For some inspiration, see Resources for images of modern architecture.) Consider building your dollhouse from preexisting wooden box pieces, since much modern architecture is based on these types of shapes.

3. Plan your space around some modern furniture. Look to some potential sellers to see what you have available before you decide organize your space with it. Modern dollhouse furniture can be difficult to find; antique (especially Victorian) is more prevalent. Find modern furniture options by looking to specialty dollhouse sellers, especially online. Also, look at auction sites with private, individual sellers, including artisans who specialize in more unusual doll house fare.

4. Determine what kinds of modern lighting options you can use in your doll house. Find modern-looking dollhouse lighting in the same places you find modern miniature furniture. Avoid ornate fixtures like floral bulbs, chandeliers, or lights shaped like candles, and look for lighting made with more basic shapes, like plain bulbs, flat panels, or pendant lights.

5. Adorn the walls with miniature photos, posters and modern art. As with the smaller product items, make these by printing miniaturized versions of the images using a computer printer onto glossy paper.

6. Choose some miniature books, magazines and packaged products with which to adorn your house. These will enrich the atmosphere while giving the house a clear feeling of modern times. Plan for any items you like; modern labeled items like this are easy to make using a computer printer and photo-editing software with minimizing capabilities (simply glue the miniature, printed labels on small cardboard boxes or miniature books), so use whichever items you like.

Tags: doll house, house design, items like, computer printer, doll house design, miniature books, modern architecture

Finish Tile At A Ceiling

Making cuts is one of the most time-consuming parts of any tile installation. Unless you get lucky, you will have cuts at the ceiling across the entire expanse of the wall. Two main factors affect finishing the tile at the ceiling. One is the size of the cut and the other is whether the ceiling is level. The size of the cut can be planned for and the level of the ceiling is out of your control, but still should be factored in.

Instructions

1. Lay out the tile installation before beginning to determine how the tiles will be finished at the ceiling. To do this, measure the height of the wall and divide it by the width of the tile plus one grout joint, using a measuring tape. This will tell you how large your cut at the ceiling should be. If you end up with a small cut, start with a half tile at the bottom. You don't want a 1/2-inch cut running around the ceiling. Also, if the ceiling is not level, a larger cut will help hide this.

2. Cut the tiles that finish against the ceiling about 1/8 inch smaller than the size of the hole you are filling. This will allow for slight variations in the ceiling. Grout and caulk will cover this joint. Set the cut tiles, using the same adhesive you used for the rest of the wall. The cut edge must be against the ceiling and not the other tiles.

3. Apply grout to the joint between the tile and the ceiling. Even though you are going to caulk over it, this will add strength and stability. Wash all grout from the ceiling. Allow the grout to dry as normal.

4. Apply silicone caulk with the caulk gun, covering the grout joint. Use a wet finger to smooth the caulk joint where necessary. You want the caulk to adhere to both the tile and the ceiling and cover the grout. This will give a flexible joint to allow for movement between the ceiling and the wall.

Tags: grout joint, tile ceiling, against ceiling, ceiling level, This will, tile installation

Most Common Ceiling Materials

Ceilings can be of several materials, including wood.

Ceilings can be made of several materials and should be both decorative and functional. Wood brings a warmth and a charm to the ceiling while tin ceilings were originally created to make the carved plaster ceilings associated with wealth more affordable for the working class and easier to ship to more people than carved plaster.

Drywall

Drywall is a gypsum board that's become the primary interior finish since World War II. Drywall typically comes in 8-by-4 foot sheets and comes in various thicknesses for different applications. To prevent sagging, ceiling drywall should be 5/8 inch thick. Drywall is screwed into the ceiling joists, and the seams between sheets are taped to hide the seam. Sheetrock is the most common brand of drywall.

Acoustic tiles

Acoustic tiles are sound-dampening tiles that are either screwed or glued to the floor joists to create a ceiling or are hung from tracks to create a drop ceiling. Drop ceilings are popular choices in basements where access to existing duct work prevents the installation of drywall. Acoustic tiles come in a variety of styles, and many can be painted to complement the interior decor.

Tin

Tin ceilings began in the mid-19th century when intricate designs were stamped into long rolls of inexpensive tinplate. New tin ceilings come in panels that can be screwed or stapled to the ceiling or hung as a suspended ceiling and are often antiqued to give the appearance of the original tin ceiling.

Wood

Wood ceilings are common in old Spanish and Turkish architecture and can be found in many churches as well as homes. Wood for ceiling applications can be purchased in planks or tiles and can be nailed, glued or suspended in a drop ceiling style.

Tags: Acoustic tiles, carved plaster, ceiling hung, drop ceiling, drywall Acoustic, drywall Acoustic tiles

Clean A Yellow Plastic Fluorescent Light Cover

Clean a Yellow Plastic Fluorescent Light Cover

Plastic fluorescent light covers take all sorts of silent and often unseen abuse. One contaminant that causes yellowing light covers is dust accumulation. Yellowing is a result of exposure to heat from fluorescent bulbs and ultraviolet light. Most plastic covers can't be kept from natural light, and, for obvious reasons, the cover can't be kept from fluorescent bulbs. Once a plastic light cover is yellowed, it may take a lot of effort to whiten it again. You may decide the work required isn't worth the trouble, but try cleaning the yellowing plastic light cover first.

Instructions

1. Remove the plastic fluorescent light cover and shake it over a trash can to remove dead bugs and loose debris. Carry it to the bathtub.

2. Fill the tub ¼ full of hot water and add enough liquid dish detergent with an anti-grease formula to create suds. Use a sponge to thoroughly clean the yellowing plastic light cover by scrubbing the light cover with firm back and forth movements. The anti-grease formula will cut through the oily residue created by dust accumulation.

3. Remove the light cover, drain the tub, and dry the cover with a towel. If the plastic is very yellow, proceed to the next step.

4. Place the yellowing plastic fluorescent light cover outside on a patio or old towels.

5. Add to a blender 1 pt. of 10 percent hydrogen peroxide and 2 tbsp. of xanthan gum. You can buy xanthan gum at drugstores. For five seconds, mix the ingredients on high. Place 1 tsp. of glycerine into the blender and select mix on high for another five seconds. Allow the ingredients to sit for one minute in the blender and then mix on high for another five seconds. Put ¼ tsp. of OxiClean into the blender and stir it until dissolved with the plastic stirring spoon. Carry the blender with the gel outside to the plastic light cover.

6. Pour the mixture over the yellowing plastic fluorescent light cover, ensuring that the entire plastic has been covered with the gel. Leave the plastic cover in the sun for at least a day.

7. Wash the gel remnants from the light cover with water from the garden hose and towel dry. Replace the plastic cover in its position.

Tags: light cover, plastic light, plastic light cover, yellowing plastic, cover with

Reverse Direction On A Sea Gull Lighting Celebrity Deluxe Fan

Most people use a ceiling fan during the spring and summer to cool rooms in the house. The draft from the ceiling blades pushes down, creating a cooling effect on the skin. Most fans have a reverse switch to turn the blades in the opposite direction to circulate heat during the fall and winter. Reversing direction on a Sea Gull Celebrity Deluxe fan is much like reversing the direction on most ceiling fans.

Instructions

1. Turn off the Sea Gull Celebrity Deluxe fan, by either the chain switch or the wall switch. Allow the ceiling fan blades to come to a complete stop.

2. Place a step stool under the fan so you are able to reach the side of the switch housing. The switch housing is the housing below the blades that has the on/off chain.

3. Find the directional toggle switch on the side of the switch housing. The switch is black and is beside the chain switch.

4. Push the toggle switch with your finger until it clicks fully to the opposite side of the toggle hole. Turn on the fan using either the chain switch or the wall switch.

Tags: Celebrity Deluxe, chain switch, switch housing, ceiling blades, chain switch wall, either chain

Install Stickon Ceiling Tiles

Ceiling tiles can come in many different types including a stick-on type that can be installed directly to a ceiling. Installing stick-on tile to a ceiling requires measuring the dimensions of the ceiling to determine the amount of tile that will be needed to finish the job. Stick-on tile is an easy and cheap solution to updating the look of a room. Installing stick-on ceiling tile can be done by following a few steps to complete the project.

Instructions

1. Make sure the ceiling surface is smooth and clean. Stick-on tile will not adhere to a ceiling if there is any type of dirt or debris.

2. Start from the center and work your way outward. Use a tape measure find the center point of the ceiling. Make a mark on the ceiling with a pencil where the first tile is going to be placed.

3. Remove the wax paper from the back of the tile and place the first piece on the ceiling. Apply a little pressure to the tile to make sure it has completely adhered to the ceiling.

4. Add additional tiles, moving outward from the center. Place each tile so that it is exactly even or square with the other tiles.

Hang Tulle & Wedding Lights

Decorating for a wedding is a big responsibility. It should be a memorable day for the bride, groom and everyone attending. A popular material to use for wedding decorations is a fabric called tulle. This fabric has a light, ethereal look and is generally inexpensive. Incorporating lights in to your tulle will create soft lighting that creates romantic mood ideal for a beautiful wedding. Recruit an extra pair of hands and transform any room or hall into a soft dreamy vision with tulle and lights. Three yards of tulle is perfect for framing a doorway or laying along the edge of a long table. Whether you hang it on a wall or drape it on table, you'll have a lovely decorating feature.

Instructions

1. Lay the desired length of tulle in a hallway or in a large area. Double up the tulle by folding it in half.

2. Plug in the Christmas lights and test it to be sure all the lights work. If you see a dead bulb, replace it and test the strand again. Stop the flicker option by removing the bulb closest to the electrical socket that has a red tip. Replace it with a plain clear bulb. Leave the plug hanging out of the tulle with plenty of cord to reach the electrical plug or an extension cord.

3. Measure out one foot sections of the one-eighth-inch wide silk ribbon. Cut the ribbon. Set the ribbon to the side.

4. Roll up the tulle with the lights inside. Try to keep the tulle even. Use the ribbon you just cut to secure the tulle about every eight to ten inches. Tie the ribbons into pretty bows for a pretty decorative touch.

5. Hang the tulle with hooks or push pins wherever you need them. Use push pins of the same color or spray with matching paint so that guests can not see them.

Tags: tulle with, push pins, ribbon ribbon

Make Wooden Tmolding

T-molding is used to transition flooring of the same height between different rooms.

Wooden T-molding is used as a transition in the flooring between two rooms. The horizontal portion of the T is designed to rest on top of the flooring. The vertical part of the T is designed to rest down in the joint between the flooring materials. It is important to have a 1-1/4-inch gap between flooring materials to allow for expansion and contraction. The vertical part of the T is 1/2-inch wide so that it can accommodate expansion and contraction between the flooring materials. Take your time and set up each cut carefully when routing T-molding.

Instructions

1. Place the round over bit into the router in the router table. Tighten and lock the bit in place. Adjust the height of the bit so that it will cut the full profile of the bit into the 2-by-96-inch edges of the boards. Adjust the fence on the router table so that it will allow you to guide the 5/8-inch width of the board through the router to cut the full profile of the bit into the board.

2. Lay the boards, one a time, flat on the router table. One 2-by-96-inch side should be flush against the fence. This is side A. One 5/8-by-96-inch side should be flush against the table. This is side B. Turn the router on and guide the board through the router just fast enough for the bit to cut the wood. Turn the board over so that it will rout the opposite side. Side A should still be flush against the fence. Side B should be facing up as you guide the board back through the router to rout the second edge. Repeat this process for each board. Turn the router off.

3. Remove the round over bit and insert the 5/16-inch straight bit. Tighten and lock it in place. Adjust the height so that it will rout a 3/4-inch deep cut. Leave the fence in the same position as in steps 1 and 2.

4. Turn the router on. Place the boards, one at a time on the router table. Side A should be facing the bit. The side with the rounded over edges should be flush against the fence. Guide the boards through the router to rout a 3/4-inch slot that is 5/16-inch wide. This will create one side of the vertical and horizontal part of the T. Turn the board over so that side A is still facing the bit and the opposite 5/8-by-96-inch side is flat against the table. Guide this side through the router table on each board to complete the vertical and horizontal portions of the T. Turn the router off.

5. Sand the surface of the routed T-molding boards with fine-grit sandpaper until they are completely smooth. Always sand in the same direction as the wood grain.

Tags: router table, through router, flush against, that will, Turn router, against fence

Repair A Roof Vent On A Popup Camper

A pop-up camper is a camper with a solid base and a tent-like attachment that forms the upper walls and roof of the camper when it is set up. Pop-up campers are often more cost-effective than regular campers and you can store them in smaller places with lower ceilings. However, the constant setting up and tearing down of the camper can cause wear and tear on the material, especially if it has a vent. Repairing a roof vent on a pop-up camper requires a few basic materials.

Instructions

1. Lower the trailer if you have it fully set up. The lower you can get the roof, the simpler the vent is to fix. Climbing on the roof of a pop-up camper is not feasible, if it is a soft variety.

Design A Living Room With Brown Leather Furniture

Use light wall colors to accentuate brown leather furniture.

Leather furniture exudes a sense of warmth and coziness in a room. Unlike some other fabrics, leather is durable and easy to maintain. But because brown leather furniture can create a look that is drab, it's important to consider carefully the accessories and furniture placement that will bring the room together. Brown leather furniture pieces come in styles that range from formal and rigid to casual and supple, making it easy to accommodate your decorative style.

Instructions

1. Paint the walls a light color to avoid the room feeling too dark or heavy. Choose a color and coordinate accessories around the selection.

2. Place a decorative rug with bold colors and an interesting pattern to create a seating area and to create interest.

3. Accessorize the furniture with throw pillows that complement at least one color in the rug and the wall color.

4. Add decorative pieces to the room such as wall art, vases and other decorative accents. Choose pieces in different colors found in the area rug and wall color for a harmonious look.

5. Outfit the room with lamps with that have a wrought iron or metal base.

6. Choose wood finishes that complement brown leather; use lighter-toned finishes if the color of leather is dark and darker-toned finishes if the leather is a dark brown.

Tags: brown leather, brown leather furniture, leather dark, leather furniture, that complement, wall color