Truck drivers face constant danger from other motorists, harsh weather conditions and fatigue.
Truck drivers must withstand the dangers of road, exercising caution with motorist, watching speed limits, maintaining appropriate cargo weight limits and driving safely during extreme weather conditions. A truck driver's safety is important to the trucking company he may work for, the motorist on the road and the cargo within the truck. Failure to exercise proper safety tips can prove hazardous to both truckers and motorist.
Avoid Fatigue
Truckers are driving for the majority of their time, and it is imperative that truckers take breaks to avoid fatigue. More importantly, both state and federal laws require that truckers take mandatory breaks to avoid accidents and dangerous driving conditions for drivers. According to the Federal Motorist Carrier Safety Administration, truck drivers driving across interstate highways must oblige by the regulations of limiting their drive time to no more than 11 consecutive hours. Since FMCSA laws apply only to truckers driving on across states, each state has implemented hours-of-service regulations similar to the FMCSA. Drivers should take appropriate breaks to avoid fatigue and fines.
Follow State and Federal Weight Limits
All states establish the maximum gross weight a truck may contain, going beyond the limit can cause safety hazard for drivers and truckers alike. However, truckers should note the federal regulations and state regulations for size and weight of their trucks as these regulations differ. Checking the weight of a truck at designated weight stations within a state will help drivers avoid infractions and maintain road safety for drivers.
Check Brakes Often
A truck's brakes provide defense against preventing accidents and maintaing driver and trucker's safety. All trucks must have working breaks for all wheels, expect for truckers manufactured before July 1980. Each truck should have working gauges to inform truckers of broken or failed brakes. Checking safety gauges and brakes often will prevent accidents while driving, but truckers should note that changes in weather conditions will affect breaking systems as well.
Properly Secure Cargo
Truckers should always check that the contents inside the truck are properly secured, ensuring no item will fall, shift, leak or blow off from inside the cargo bay. Secure any lose cargo not fully enclosed using a tarp to prevent items from falling or dropping out from the cargo area. If using a tie-down device, the device must prevent the secured item from becoming loose or unfastened.
Ceiling repairs due to cracks, water stain, holes and exposed nails are common problems for most homeowners. It may seem daunting to repair a drywall ceiling. However, it is a relatively easy task if you have some basic skills, the necessary tools and right materials.
Instructions
1. Get a drywall repair tool kit and the right materials before starting to repair a drywall ceiling. The kit should contain many of the tools listed above as well as other optional tools. It is best to be well prepared for any problems you can encounter while doing the repair.
2. Learn to use a hand sander to correctly repair ceilings. Most repairs require that you do some sanding of the damaged area to ensure a smooth finish for priming and painting.
3. Apply the drywall compound thinly, one coat at a time, until you have the desired coverage. Let each coat dry completely and use the sander after each coat to smooth out the repair area. By using this technique, you can avoid lumpy patched area.
4. Repair a small hole in a ceiling by using a drywall saw to cut out the damaged area; then, with a utility knife, cut out a piece of drywall that will fit the hole dimension. Use drywall screws to secure the drywall to the joist. Apply a thin coat of the joints and screws and cut a piece of drywall tape to place on the wet compound around the joint. Add one more coat of compound over the tape, let dry and sand.
5. Scrape off any damaged paint area with a putty knife when repairing a textured ceiling. Use the hand sander to smooth the edges of the apply a thin coat of compound to fill in the area, let dry and sand again. Continue to Step 6 (for textured ceilings) or Step 7 (for ceilings without texture).
6. Blend a repair with the surrounding ceiling texture by using one of various types of spray texture-repair kits. Repair kits are good for textured ceiling styles such as popcorn, splatter and knock-down. You can use compound with texture brushes or textured rollers on the repaired area to achieve the look of the surrounding ceiling.
7. Prime and paint the repaired area to match the ceiling. It may be necessary to repaint the entire ceiling to get the desired match.
Vaulted ceilings have one or two sides that angle upwards towards a peak.
Decorating large spaces, like vaulted ceilings, can be difficult. Without making the area too busy looking, you need to emphasis its charm. Vaulted ceilings can be used to create a large modern feeling space or something more old fashioned. When decorating these ceilings, examine the style of decor in the rest of your home and try to keep it complimentary.
Paint
Choose a color that will create the atmosphere you desire.
When decorating a room or ceiling, one of the first things to come to mind is generally paint. A vaulted ceiling should be painted different colors depending on the effect you are trying to achieve. If you want your room to look a bit smaller, or cozier, select a color on the dark side, such as a rich chocolate brown or rust red. For a more open space, use lighter, brighter colors like pale white or yellow hues.
Light Fixtures
Vaulted ceilings give you a lot of space above a room, and you can use this extra space for a truly spectacular lighting fixture. Many hanging chandeliers or other large hanging light fixtures are too big for a common room but will fit in well with vaulted ceilings. You can even get handmade fixtures made from glass or wood to match the rest of your room decor. Not only will the fixture be decorative, but it also serves the important function of lighting your large room.
Ceiling Tiles
Use ceiling tiles on your vaulted ceilings to separate it from the rest of the room and add design and pattern. Tin, or faux tin, tiles are available with designs punched into them and come in styles that can complement your decor. Even using as a border along the bottom of your ceiling can add some interesting decoration.
Crown Molding
Crown molding can be an attractive way to decorate around the edges of your vaulted ceiling and room. Be aware that this will divide your room into top and bottom areas, which may not be the look you are going for. Crown molding can be antique looking or very modern. It can also be painted to match any color scheme.
Choose wood paneling for sprucing up a home or adding depth and dimension to rooms; using it can also add value to your home. Wood panels come in an array of dimensions and colors. Using wood panels can have certain advantages in nearly any room of the house. Since wood ready to install, almost anyone can install them with ease.
Easy to Install
Wood paneling comes in a variety of styles that are typically easy to install. Tongue-and-groove is a type of paneling in which one end of the board, a small piece called a tongue, sticks out, and on the other side a groove is cut into the wood. The tongue-and-groove pieces are joined together to form a strong and invisible seam. V-joint paneling is a style in which the panels are joined together to form a V-shape. Homeowners can purchase paneling in both tongue-and-groove and V-joint panels that are ready to install.
Long-Lasting
Wood panels can last a long time when cared for properly. You can use a variety of paints, varnishes and stains to seal the wood and protect it for years to come. In addition, you can change the color by painting over the existing color or by adding a different stain, both of which increase the life of the panels. With proper cleaning, routine maintenance like filling holes and painting, staining or varnishing, wood paneling can last 10 to 20 years with ease.
Waterproof
You can make wood panels waterproof with the application of a silicone sealant. Install waterproof panels in bathrooms in place of standard ceramic tiles. Since wood panels do not require grout to install, the surfaces can be wiped down or cleaned without using bleach or other harsh chemicals that grout requires. Use mild dishwashing detergent or chlorine-free bleach mixed with a water solution to clean the caulk.
Environmentally Friendly
Bamboo veneer is an environmentally friendly choice for wood panels. Bamboo can be grown to full size in approximately three years, and it can be collected and replanted at a much faster rate than trees. Bamboo is less expensive than tree-grown wood. Bamboo offers dimension and style just like ordinary wood, and can be stained or painted to suit any color palette.
Tags: joined together, joined together form, panels come, ready install,
Marble vanity tops are installed with undermount sinks.
A marble vanity top can add detail and elegance to the bathroom design. Marble tops can be cut to the exact dimensions of your vanity and installation, and can be pre-cut for an undermount sink installation.
The key to a successful vanity top installation is installing the sink and faucet first, the doing a dry-run of the marble top install before the final attachment.
Instructions
1. Install the faucet on the marble top by placing the faucet stems through the holes cut in the top. Use a wrench to tighten the bolts on the underside of the vanity top to hold the faucet parts in place.
2. Apply a bead of silicone caulk around the underside edge of the sink cut out. Squeeze the tube of caulk slowly to ensure an even line of adhesive. Press the rim of the sink into the silicone adhesive, lining it up with the sink cutout.
3. Install the sink's mounting clips to the sink and the marble top. Apply a dab of epoxy on the marble top and press each bolt stem into the epoxy directly next to the sink's rim. Spread the bolt stems out evenly around the sink.
4. Install the clip to the sink's rim by applying a dab of epoxy to the rim of the sink next to the and press the clip into place. Wait ten minutes for the epoxy to harden and then attach the clips to the with a wrench to tighten the bolt down.
5. Carefully lift the marble vanity top onto the vanity to check its position and fit. The top should overhang the vanity by 1/2-inch on all sides and be flush to the back wall.
6. Remove the top from the vanity and run a bead of silicone caulk adhesive around the rim of the vanity. Squeeze the tube of caulk slowly so that a continuous bead of caulk is applied. Lift the vanity top back into place and allow it to settle onto the adhesive. Allow 24 hours to pass before hooking up the sink drain or water for the adhesives to dry.
Tags: bolt stems, , bead silicone caulk, caulk slowly, into place
Major cracks in your wall could indicate more than a simple settling issue.
If your house is giving you the creeps because of popping noises from inside the walls and up in the attic, you can probably chalk it up to something other than spirits from beyond the grave. Popping is a common way to describe a variety of noises that a house makes, and the causes are varied. They range from the completely natural sounds of a house to problems you will need to address. Learning the various causes of these noises will let you know what, if anything, you need to do to stop it.
Settling
If your house was built recently or if it is very old, it will go through a process known as settling. These are minor adjustments that the house makes as it adjusts to the shape of the ground under the foundation. The settlement may never completely end, and the occasional pop caused by stress or movement on joists, joints and the various components of the house are completely normal as long as the walls and ceiling do not develop major cracks. If they do, you may need a structural engineer to inspect the home to see if it needs to have piers installed to support it.
Pipes
Sometimes popping sounds begin when hot water is turned on somewhere in the house. As hot water moves through PVC pipes, they expand. If the pipes were installed with minimal room to grow and shrink, the pipes could be rubbing against the wood of the structure in the walls, ceilings or floor. This may be described as the sound of a ping-pong ball bouncing on the wall from the other side. This is not usually a major problem, and the pipes will not necessarily suffer any damage from this rubbing, but it may be worth it to widen holes or otherwise insulate the pipes to prevent the noise since it is not technically "normal."
Ducts
Popping noises may sound like they are coming from walls when the sounds are actually traveling down the air ducts throughout the house. The popping can sound pretty loud as warm air expands or cool air shrinks the metal ductwork, causing them to pop. You can always use a hammer to knock a dent in ducts that move too easily to make them more rigid and less likely to pop.
Temperature Changes
As the temperature in goes up and down, the materials used to build your house expand and contract with the heat and cold. Often this expansion and contraction causes popping sounds in the wood or other materials. This is why many people notice the things that go "pop" in the night. The house is quieter as people sleep and the house is rapidly cooling in absence of the sun.
Pests
One problem that could be causing a popping sound in your walls or in the attic is pests. Mice, rats, birds or other animals may have entered the home and are chewing, digging and pecking on the interior of your home from the attic or inside the walls. This is a problem that can lead to damage in the home and it must be remedied as soon as possible by calling an exterminator or an animal-removal service.
Tags: your house, house makes, inside walls, popping sound, popping sounds
Most tile ceilings today are made with acoustical tile. This is a positive development, because acoustical tiles are very easy to repair when one becomes damaged. The worst part in most cases is dealing with the sore arms and shoulders from having to work while stretching upward.
Instructions
1. Use the utility knife to cut along the lines of the damaged tile. Use the edge of the blade to slide beneath the tile and work the damaged section away from the connecting tiles.
2. Use the straightedge razor to trim the lip of the grooved edge of the . Depending on the condition of the nearby tile, it may also be necessary to remove the tongue section of the replacement tile as well.
3. Squeeze adhesive into the furring strips of the existing tile on the ceiling. Install the new tile, tongue first, into the the existing tile, and gently press it into the adhesive. Clean away any adhesive that oozes out before it can dry.
4. Keep larger-sized tile in place by creating a brace. Begin by making a brace with a flat piece of wood. Use a 2-by-4 post between the floor and the ceiling, and position the board brace across the tile.
A well-placed furniture grouping helps to create a relaxing environment.
You spend a lot of time in your living room, so it's important to decorate it in a way that reflects your personality and taste. Whether you prefer traditional or modern decor, several principles are consistent with any successful design. Make a few subtle changes or completely redo your living room by trying out these fresh interior design ideas.
Conceal Your TV
Every well-designed room contains a focal point, but all too often the focal point of the living room is the TV. While some flat-panel TVs are very sleek, most sets simply aren't that attractive. Instead of arranging your living room around this awkward appliance, try concealing it or incorporating it within the room's design. Place your TV in an antique cabinet with doors that swing or slide open and closed, or create a niche for the television in the wall or a wood panel system.
Add an Accent Wall
Chose a focal point for the room other than the television, such as the fireplace, a painting or an unusual piece of furniture. Use an accent wall-a wall that is painted a color that contrasts with the room's other walls-to highlight this object. For a contemporary look, try an intense red, orange or calming dark gray. Go the traditional route with burgundy, green or brown tones.
Reinvent Your Furniture
It isn't necessary to replace all of your current living room furniture. Instead, you can transform it for less than $100. Buy a slipcover for that beat-up couch. Gone are the days when slipcovers were ill-fitted with bows on the arms-today you can find plenty of sophisticated-looking slipcovers in a range of colors and styles. Sand down and repaint your coffee table or TV console. If you're feeling bold, go for some bright colors.
Delve Into the Details
One of the easiest ways to update your living room and make it look "finished" is by adding accessories. Plants, paintings and knick-knacks such as vases or sculptures make a room feel welcoming. However, don't go overboard; you shouldn't cover every visible surface with clutter.
Turn Down the Lights
No one looks good in harsh overhead lighting, and it isn't conducive to relaxing activities such as reading or even conversation. Do yourself and your guests a favor by adding some accent lighting. Lamps that cast light onto the ceiling or wall create a soft, indirect glow. Task lights help you read your book or partake in your hobbies without over-lighting the entire room. And of course, nothing sets the mood like candlelight.
Tags: living room, your living, your living room, focal point, room other
You can do more with a fencepost than make a fence.
It may look just like a fencepost to you, but a floor lamp is in that bit of wood, and you can make it have at least three lamps. If you like rustic, weathered, recycled items, then a fencepost that stood in the rain for a few years will fit the bill nicely. Add some decorative finishes, one or two yards of wire, a base and a few creative extras and you'll have a one-of-a-kind lamp that looks like a million dollars and costs practically nothing.
Instructions
1. Examine the fencepost for nails, splinters, splits and areas of rot. Pull out nails with pliers or a claw hammer. Smooth the wood with an electric sander, removing splinters and sharp edges without making the post look too polished and perfect. Level off one end to be the floor lamp's base.
2. Secure the post upside-down in a vise, or ask someone to hold the post for you. Position a wooden base over the level end of the fencepost, and select a drill bit long enough to go through the base and extend at least 1 inch into the level end of the post. Drill two holes though the base into the post end. Coat the post's end with wood glue, and attach the end to the base. Insert two screws long enough to tighten the base securely to the post's end. Upend the post.
3. Measure the fencepost's circumference and the length of a fairy light string. Divide the length of the fairy light string by the circumference of the post, which gives you the number of turns around the post that are possible with the length of fairy lights.
4. Attach the end of the fairy light string nearest the plug to the post with a cable clip and the hammer. Tack the wires down the post to the base with cable clips. Wind the fairy lights round the post in your chosen pattern, careful not to bunch light bulbs together. Tack the end of the fairy light string to the post with a cable clip.
5. Weight the base of the post with stones to make it sturdy, plug in the lights and switch them on. Ensure that no-one will trip over the lamp wire by either putting the lamp in a corner or covering the wiring with a mat or a specialized rubber wire protector.
6. Double the value of your fencepost fairy light floor lamp by adding a jacket. Measure the length from the top of the wooden base to the top of the post. Make four equally sized circles of wire thick enough to retain their shape and wide enough to give 4 inches of clearance around the fairy lights.
Attach thin bamboo sticks that are the length of the post vertically around the inside of one wire ring with thin craft wire. Position the wire ring 6 inches from the bottom of the bamboo. Wind the wire once round each bamboo and once around the wire ring, fitting them closely together.
Slide the second wire ring down and over the bamboo sticks so that it rests 12 inches from the first ring, and secure the bamboo to the wire in the same way. Repeat for the third and fourth wire rings. Slide this bamboo cylinder over the post so that it rests on the wooden base.
As an alternative to bamboo, use flat tin sheeting or other thin malleable metal 5 or 6 inches taller than the post and as wide as 3/4 of bamboo cylinder's circumference. Mark out a design in water-based ink in a color that is easily visible, and hammer small perforations along the lines of the design with a sharp nail and a hammer. Wipe off the ink off with a dry cloth. Alternatively, sketch a design on paper and affix it to the tin with clips or sticky tape, and punch through the design.
Hammer a hole on each side of the sheeting 1/2 way up. Bend the sheet to form a curved half-cylinder, and attach a loop of wire to one side through one of the holes. Position the sheeting on the lamp base, and pass the wire around the back of the pole, through a cable clip holding the fairy lights and over to the hole on the other side. Secure it with a wire loop.
Recessed lighting and curved fixtures give this bath an upscale look.
Designing a bathroom area will require placing fixtures to accommodate traffic flow. The size of the space will determine a lot about how the floor plan works best, but even a very small bathroom can work well. Fixtures come in a variety of dimensions and designs, so it's possible to find exactly what is needed. For example, a pedestal sink in a small bath will save a lot of floor room. Or, a pre-made shower unit can be found to fit a very small corner. Every bathroom can look impressive and function well. But, creating a good space will take detailed planning.
Instructions
1. Obtain catalogs and brochures that feature bath fixtures. Go online as well to become familiar with various designs of sinks, bathtubs, bath-shower combos and toilets. Look through home design books and bath remodeling magazines to see how fixtures are placed in appealing bathrooms. Use a sketch pad to draw layout ideas for a specific bathroom.
2. Plan the vanity and sink area first. Consider this to be the focal point of most bathrooms. Invest time in figuring out the best choices for the vanity space, which might include double sinks, a cabinet with drawers and a large mirror. Select a pedestal sink, if the bathroom is small, with a decorative mirror above it. Design the space, however small, to visually capture attention by using color or artwork.
3. Find space for the bath-shower unit. Move it away from the main bathroom door, if possible. Design the bath area to be tucked into a corner of the bathroom. Put a shower, tub or combo unit out of traffic flow. Create the bath or shower space to include a hanging area for clothes or a sitting stool. Design the tub or shower fixtures near the main door of the bathroom, if the bathroom has adequate width. Avoid cramping the walk-in space at the main entrance door of any bathroom.
4. Design the toilet to be in a private area. Put it away from the bath's main door, if possible. Hide the toilet in a far corner of the room by placing a sink vanity beside it, for example. Place the toilet in a separate small closet-type room of its own, if the bathroom is over-sized. Avoid placing the toilet against the wall directly facing the bathroom's front door, especially if the door opens directly into a hallway.
5. Choose fixtures within a given budget, but splurge some as well. Use a few upscale materials, even if the budget is small. Design a sink area, for example, with a fancy bowl-type sink that sits atop a vanity. Plan to use upscale or unique faucets and towel rods to add ambiance to the space. Draw all fixtures for the room using graph paper once fixture choices are finalized. Use detailed measurements with one square of graph paper representing four inches of real space.
Tags: away from, door bathroom, door possible, graph paper, main door, pedestal sink
The living room can be a home's central hub, where people gather to talk, share and celebrate, or it can be a wonderful showroom of your design and style. Looking for ways to design your living room? Look no further. With the right direction and a clear picture, you can create the perfect space that reflects your needs, personality and style.
Showpiece or Usable Space?
Sometimes you walk into a home to find a room that is virtually unused but absolutely beautiful. It will often be perfectly staged with carefully selected and placed accessories. The homeowner will show off this room, as if you are in a museum and you will be left to ooh and ahh over it. If that sounds like something that you want for your home, then you are aiming for a showpiece living room, a room more about style than comfort.
In other homes, the living room is a usable space designed for sitting and chatting. This living room will have comfortable furniture that is both stylish and inviting, so that people want to stay awhile.
Choose the type of living room you want before proceeding.
Think Colors
Color, color, color. Having a color palate will help you hone your design so it's pulled together and doesn't see hodgepodge. Choose colors that go well together, such as turquoise, brown and cream or sage, maroon and white. This is your starting point for design.
Now, consider where the colors will go. Will you want the walls to be neutral with bold decorations and furniture? Or do you want bold walls with more neutral furniture and decorations? Both can be beautiful.
Create a Storyboard
When editors design a magazine page or directors plan a movie, they often use a storyboard to mock up concepts. This technique is equally great for designing a living room. Click photos of furniture, snip paint chips and collect fabric samples, then arrange them on a poster board or cardstock sheet to get a visual idea of what you are aiming for. Use your color palate to help select the right pieces to go with your design--and remember that the storyboard is a guideline, not necessarily the actual pieces you will ultimately purchase.
Check Out Books
Between design magazines and books at the library, a wealth of design ideas are there for the picking. Leaf through magazines at your local bookseller to get a feel for what style (classic, Victorian, modern) you are most interested in and then hit the library for books that can provide more inspiration.
Moisture is the most likely culprit of flaking garage ceiling texture.
Applying texture to ceiling gives it a finished look and offers a measure of camouflage that conceals small taping problems. If you've replaced a damaged section of ceiling drywall, you might have to retexture the entire ceiling so the texture design blends evenly. Most of the time, you can add new texture over old texture without a problem, but in some cases, the new texture might not adhere well. If the texture is peeling or flaking, you might have to prep or remove the old texture before texturing again.
Painted Ceiling
Rolling paint over a textured ceiling is a great way to add color to your garage, but if you've painted over the texture with a glossy paint or enamel, any new texture you add to the ceiling might not adhere well. If this is the case, you can attach a drywall-sanding pad to an extension pole, and lightly sand the surface of the texture to remove the gloss before retexturing.
Moisture
A leak in the garage roof that dampens the ceiling drywall can make texture flake or peel off. In addition to the texture falling, you'll notice brownish or dark yellow stains that indicate water damage. If moisture damage makes the ceiling drywall bulge, replace the damaged sections after repairing the leak. If the drywall is still in good shape, sand off the old texture from the stained area, brush on a stain-blocking sealer, and then retexture.
Acoustical Texture
During the 1980s, acoustical texture was in style, and contractors sprayed interior ceilings and garage ceilings with the rigid, foam pellets. Unfortunately, acoustical texture tends to collect dust and traps it, leaving the ceiling looking dank and dirty. If you're applying standard texture made from thinned drywall compound, the moisture in the compound will loosen the , encouraging it to fall off. The best remedy for an acoustical ceiling is to scrape off all the old texture and sand the ceiling before applying new texture.
Other Considerations
While the most common causes of flaking drywall texture are related to leaks and non-adherence to a glossy painted surface, occasionally grease and soot might filter upward if you use a pellet stove, grill or turkey fryer in the garage. This can leave a thin layer of soot or grease that prevents the new texture from adhering well. If you use your garage as a workshop and spray sealer or shellac, it can form a film barrier on the ceiling that can prevent texture from sticking.
Tags: acoustical texture, ceiling drywall, texture from, your garage, adhere well
Styles come and go when it comes to kitchen design, but a white kitchen will never go out of style. Whether paired with classic black, warmed up with wood tones, or emboldened with a bright spark of color, white kitchens stand the test of time. No longer just a utilitarian color, white is the foundation and basis of trendsetting kitchens.
Black and White
White kitchens with black accents never go out of style.
White kitchens with black accents are timeless. Add accents such as black appliances against white distressed cabinets. Stainless steel appliances also work well with white cabinets. Opt for a tiled black and white floor and white and black tile for a backsplash. Choose black slate for floor tile or black marble with white tones. Choose black granite for a beautiful yet functional countertop. Add some textures with raffia or bamboo shades and place mats. Place sisal mats on the floor in prime cooking areas, such as by the stove and sink. Stencil walls with decorative stencils, such as a fleur de lis design, using black paint on white walls.
Wood Accents
Add wood accents to warm up a white kitchen.
Wood helps to add warmth to an all white kitchen. Add wood trim to countertops or use a butcher block style countertop. Keep wood trim around doorways and windows in the kitchen natural or stain with a wood stain. Add wood floors to create softness underfoot and add comfort. Maintain the wood look with wooden spoons and utensils displayed in old crockery on counters. Install light fixtures made from wood, such as a rustic chandelier.
Cottage Style
Create a white cottage kitchen.
Create a cozy cottage style white kitchen. Choose bright yellow for the walls. Add a distressed farm blue hutch or sideboard. Tile the backsplash with a checkerboard pattern of blue and yellow. Add white beams to the ceiling to focus the eye upward and expand the kitchen visually. Install white beadboard around the perimeter of the kitchen to create a chair rail. Hang pendant lights in bright white above a breakfast island. Add soft cushions in yellow or blue to chairs at the dining table. Opt for clear glass or porcelain knobs on cabinets for a cozy feel. Include a few rooster or chicken and egg accents throughout with statuary, towels, placemats and napkins.
Tags: white kitchen, black accents, Choose black, , kitchen design, , kitchens with black
Zebra prints can be used in a number of ways in the living room.
Show a bit of your wild side, in a tasteful way, through your living room decor. Use zebra stripe prints in several creative ways to pull off the look in your own home. Before deciding on include zebra print into your living room decor, explore some of the ways the prints can be incorporated into the room to suit your personal tastes. No matter your color scheme, you can to find unique ideas that work for you.
Walls
Designer wallpaper can spin plain walls into an eye-catching backdrop for a living space. If a black and white print combination has too much contrast, zebra print wallpapers that incorporate two shades of a similar, more neutral color are also available. This way, the print still shows, but the colors are easier on the eyes. Homeowners with a steady hand and a good idea of what the stripes should look like, can recreate the print with two paint colors. If the print is too overpowering for your room, consider just using it on an accent wall.
Furniture
Couches, chairs and even tables can be purchased in zebra prints to furnish a zebra print living room. One or more pieces of zebra print furniture can be arranged with another style of furniture as a bold accent. Alternatively, the zebra print can be used to decorate all of the furniture in the room for a unified look, rather than a combination. Like wallpaper, zebra prints can be found in several color combinations ranging from bright and bold to neutral and muted to suit the homeowner's personal preferences.
Consider furniture with metal accents to complement the zebra pieces. Remember: a little goes a long way in this type of print. One large furniture piece, such as a sofa, is often enough to give the whole room a fresh and modern feel.
Floors
From modest to extravagant, options for covering the floor completely, or in part, with zebra striped print offer a flexibility to homeowners. For extravagant and semi-permanent results, wall-to-wall carpeting can be specially made or dyed to match the style.
For those with a smaller budget or less of a commitment to the style, throw rugs and area rugs can add splashes of zebra print around the room inexpensively. Try using an area rug on hardwood floors to anchor the living room seating area.
Art and Accessories
Small-scale examples of zebra print can be added throughout the living room to bring the print to life through details. Statuettes of zebras or unexpectedly zebra-printed other animals can be placed throughout the room on shelving and table tops. Throw blankets and pillows can add pizzazz to neutral furniture to bring it into the room's design. Zebra print fabrics can be stretched flat and framed as artwork. Alternatively, photos and paintings of real zebras can make the room's print collection seem more natural.
Tags: living room, zebra print, into room, living room decor, room decor
Exercise extra care when wiring bathrooms because people often turn on lights and use electrical appliances with wet hands. To reduce chances of electric shock, all bathroom wiring must be grounded. The steps described here for wiring bathroom lights will include measures to ensure that the wiring is safe.
Initial discussions will focus on a new installation of lights and not a replacement of existing lights. Replacement of lights will be addressed at the end of the article. An assumption is made that there is accessible attic space above locations selected for the new lights.
Instructions
Box and Wire Installation
1. To install a light fixture in the ceiling, place an outlet box with cable clamps at the desired location. With a stud finder, locate the rafters nearest that location and trace the fixture's outside shape with a soft-leaded pencil. Drill holes at the corners of your traced outline, large enough to insert the blade of a keyhole or a reciprocating saw. Using either saw, cut a hole in which to insert the outlet box. Repeat for each fixture.
2. Attach a hanger bar to an outlet box with screws for each light you plan to install, take them into the attic and locate the freshly cut holes. Adjust the hanger bar to a length that fits snugly between the two rafters. Position the hanger bar so the outlet box fits through the hole, its top edge flush with the bottom edge of the ceiling. Attach the two ends of the hanger bar to the rafters with nails or wood screws.
If the lights are heavy, use a 2-by-4-inch piece of lumber as a box hanger to make a sturdier mounting. Cut the 2-by-4 to fit between the rafters with the outlet box nailed or screwed to it. Then nail the 2-by-4 to the rafters.
3. Unless the ceiling lights have attached switches, they will need to have a wall switch installed. Standard height for wall switches is 48 inches from the floor. Place the front of your switch box against the wall where you want to put the switch. Trace around the box, drill holes at the corner of the outline and saw between the holes.
4. Ask a helper to stand at the hole for the switch box and tap on the wall. Go into the attic and move to a position directly above the tapping. Drill a hole through the top plate of the wall and push the end of 12-2 (for 12-gauge, two-wire) Romex cable, with a ground wire, through the hole into the void between the two walls. Keep feeding cable into the wall until your helper sees the end.
The helper needs to grab the cable end and pull it through the hole. Sometimes it is necessary to straighten a coat hanger and use its hook to catch the end of the cable. About one foot of cable needs to be pulled into the bathroom.
5. Punch out one of the knock-outs in the outlet box and ask your helper to loosen the corresponding cable clamp. Cut the Romex cable to length with a pair of electrician pliers and push the loose end into the outlet box, leaving about 6 inches hanging into the room.
If additional outlet boxes were installed, connect them with 12-2 Romex cable in the same manner.
6. Go back into the bathroom, punch a knock-out from one end of a switch box and loosen the corresponding cable clamp. Push the end of the Romex cable into the box and tighten the cable clamp. Fit the box into the wall with its ears against the outer surface of the wall. Insert the ends of a Madison hanger (drywall hanger) into the wall beside the switch box and bend the flaps into the box. Repeat the procedure on the other side of the box. The switch box should now be firmly attached to the wall.
7. Using a wire stripper or sharp pocket knife, peel the outer sheathing from the Romex cable hanging from the switch box. Remove the sheathing as far back into the box as possible. Remove about one-half inch of coating from each wire. Attach the black wire to one side of a single-pole switch, that has a ground, and the white wire to the other side. Attach the ground wire to the green screw on the switch. The will either be green or bare copper. Cut off any exposed ends of the peeled wire.
8. Push the switch into the box and fasten with the attached screws. Install a switch plate over the switch using the screws included in the package.
Circuit Load Calculations
9. It is now time to determine the source of electrical power. Go to the breaker box and turn off a breaker. Check in the house to see what is on that circuit by turning on light switches and plugging a small appliance into the receptacles. Make a list of the items on this circuit. Repeat the process with every breaker or circuit.
10. Calculate the load on each circuit by adding separately the wattage of each light bulb and the amperes (amps) used by each item that is operated continually or occasionally from each receptacle. Each appliance shows the number of amps it uses on its nameplate. Calculate the total watts for each circuit and divide the total by 120 volts to obtain the amps. Add all of the amps together to derive the circuit load.
Major appliances such as refrigerators, freezers, air conditioners, heating systems and hot water heaters need to be on their own circuits and do not need to be included in this exercise.
11. Circuit loads should be no more than 80 percent of the amp rating of the breaker. For instance, a circuit load for a 15-amp breaker should be no more than 12 amps, 16 amps for a 20-amp breaker and 24 amps for a 30-amp breaker.
Calculate the number of amps that your new light or lights will add to a circuit load and then determine if one of the existing circuits can carry the additional load. A new circuit my have to be added.
Wiring Connections
12. To use an existing circuit , the new light needs to be connected to a hot wire in the designated circuit. The easiest place to make this connection is usually an outlet box above an existing light fixture. Run 12-2 Romex cable from the outlet box, containing the cable from the switch, into the box where the connection to the existing circuit will be made. Do not make the connection at this time.
If a new circuit is to be installed, the cable needs to be run to the breaker box instead of connecting with an existing circuit. A new breaker will need to be installed to accommodate the new circuit.
13. Install the light fixtures by following the manufacturer's directions. Connect the black wire from the switch to the black wire coming from the existing circuit. Connect the white wire from the switch to the all new light fixtures. Connect all remaining white wires and twist all ground wires together. Use the appropriate-sized wire nuts to make the connections.
Connect all remaining light fixtures to the installed Romex cable by twisting black to black, white to white and ground to ground.
14. Turn off the breaker to the selected existing circuit and make sure you have turned off the right one. Connect the black wire from your new lights to the black wire in the . Then connect white wires and ground wires. If there is not a ground wire available in the existing circuit, a bare copper wire will have to be run from the new lights to the breaker box and connected to the ground in the box.
15. After all connections have been made, turn on the breaker and make sure that it does not trip. If it trips, check all of your wiring connections to see if they were done correctly and that there are no exposed bare wires. Once the breaker is on, check to ensure that the newly installed lights are working. If everything works properly, your job is completed.
Tags: existing circuit, Romex cable, black wire, , ground wire, wire from, black wire from
Arched ceilings do not have to incorporated into a home's infrastructure. Some manufacturers make an array of three-dimensional suspension systems in different shapes, textures and lighting options that can be added to existing homes. A free-hanging arched ceiling system requires plumb wires to support the weight of the structure. Installing one of the suspension systems should be done with care---without the proper preparation and technique, the installation could cause permanent damage to the original structure.
Instructions
1. Check the package upon arrival for any damages that may have occurred during shipment. Also, verify if all the listed parts are included. Do not attempt the installation if parts are missing or damaged. It may seem obvious, but don't skip the important first step: Read the instructional manual for an overview of the installation process. Improper installation can cause permanent damage to the arched-ceiling unit and its corresponding parts.
2. Refer often to the diagram that came with the arched-ceiling assembly. Allow for clearances of at least 23-1/4 inches from walls and structural beams.
Locate the flush main tee, a curved structural support beam, to lay out the first row of main tees. Note the two different ends on the main tees, which include flush-cut and splice ends.
3. Select a starting point relative to the installation site, such as a wall or column. Use the installation guide to lay out the on the ground relative to their intended placement. Place a flush-cut main tee at the starting or ending points in the first row.
4. Use a permanent marker to mark the pre-punched hanger holes spaced about 2-feet apart. Use ceiling hooks to carefully mount the hanger wires within the corresponding marks on the main tees. The hanger wires will have varied space between them because of the curvature in the main tees.
5. Attach the flush-end main tee on the hanger, based on the elevation specified in the diagram. Punch or drill additional hanger holes to work around obstructions in the existing ceiling. Ensure that the space between two hanger wires does not exceed 4 feet.
Some installations will require you to make a flush-end main tee by cutting a splice-end main tee. Find the cross-tee slot on the flush-end main tee and insert the cross-tee into that location, then mark it. Use a ruler to draw a straight line at the mark. Use tin snips to carefully cut along the marking.
6. Use a splice-end main tee and insert the splice tabs into the ends of the adjoining main tees, then partially bend the tabs to secure the main tees into place. Make upward and downward alignment adjustments to prevent future problems with the rest of the assembly. Ensure the straightness of the wire before proceeding.
Attach temporary support braces to the wall to ensure stability of the the first row's main tee.
7. Observe the alignment of the first hanger wire rows and use it as a reference when installing the second set of hanger wires. Use a level, string lines or laser pen to ensure there is a 2-foot gap between rows. Hang a consecutive flush-end main tee and connect it to the first row through a cross tee. Continue hanging the main tees along with the cross tees until you create a grid. Inconspicuously tighten the ends of the hanger wires to prevent visibility after final installation.
8. Lay the 2-foot-by-2-foot panels into the newly constructed grid according to the directional markings on each panel. Slightly bend the hold-down tabs on each panel, and close any gaps. Be careful, as overextending the hold-down tabs could cause permanent damage to the panel.
9. Remove the temporary support bracing from the walls, columns, or ceiling.
10. Follow the diagram to install each edge trim part . Slide each edge trim part into the grid; the edge trim parts measure 1/2-inch shorter than the main tees.
Install the fascla splices by squeezing and hooking the bottom tab over the edge of the trim, then bend it over the top of the splice. Hook each corner clip over the edge of the trim, then bend the tabs over the top to snap into place.
Ensure proper trim fitting against the grid, then screw two 6-inch-by-3/8-inch self-tapping screws into each edge trim part.
Tags: main tees, edge trim, hanger wires, flush-end main, cause permanent
False ceilings are also known as drop ceilings are hung or suspended under a primary ceiling. Installing a false ceiling can enhance the look of your home. False ceilings are practical because they cover and hide piping and wiring, offer a good way to install lighting and are always accessible for repairs. False ceilings vary in materials, shapes, sizes and installation systems, but the basic installation process is similar for any model.
Instructions
1. Measure the area you want to cover with a measuring tape and then make a sketch according to the dimensions of the room and the effect you want to achieve, using a paper and pencil.
2. Draw a line at the preferred height for your suspended ceiling all around the room. You're outlining the place where the side rails for the suspension system will be mounted and not the final edge of the ceiling. Check your model to plan the distance between the mounting rail and the final surface of the ceiling and make sure the lines for the side rails are level.
3. Attach the edges of the suspended ceiling system all around the walls of the room. The edges are usually metal side rails mounted around the whole diameter of the room, which hold the grid of the suspended ceiling. Follow the instructions for your ceiling assembly to properly mount the side rails. Hold the rails against the wall and mark the places for screws and then drill the holes with a power drill. Use the screws from the installation kit and tighten them with a Phillips-head screwdriver.
4. Attach the hooks that will hold the grid onto the primary ceiling. Use a hammer and follow the instructions from the installation kit to mark and measure the exact places for the hooks on the ceiling. Usually the pattern is an orderly grid with 3 to 4 feet between the hooks.
5. Install the suspended metal grid (the runners) by hanging it to the hooks on the primary ceiling. Use tin snips to cut the runners if needed. Otherwise, simply click the ends of runners together. The edges of the grid have to be securely fitted into the side rail outline around the room. This way the whole suspending system will be secured from two directions, making the ceiling assembly strong and stable. The grid will have holes the size and shape of your chosen ceiling panels, according to the assembly, design and disposition you ordered.
6. Add fixtures inside the space that will be covered by your new false ceiling. Hide any piping, ductwork and wires in the same space. If features still must be protruding through the ceiling or you already planned a lighting disposition, cut a hole on the ceiling tile before installment. Mark the size and location of the hole and use a utility knife to cut it out.
7. Place the drop ceiling panel inside the empty grid fields. Every field has a supporting system, so the panels should click into place or simply be placed on the runner, depending on whether you chose an invisible or semi-visible runner option.
Tags: side rails, False ceilings, , , around room, because they
Update paneled walls by resurfacing with joint or spackling compound.
In the 1970s, wood paneling of various hues was all the rage in dens and family rooms across the country. As decades passed, the look became dated and fell from favor. Many homes still boast paneled walls, much to the chagrin of their owners. It is possible to update the walls without ripping the paneling from the surface. Hide the grooves on paneling by resurfacing the walls with joint or spackling compound. Once the paneling grooves are covered, paper or paint just like you would on a plaster or drywall surfaced wall.
Instructions
1. Move furniture from the room. Place drop cloths on the floor to protect the flooring. Clean the paneling with liquid dish detergent and water with a sponge. Towel dry and then allow the walls to air dry to completely.
2. Fill any large holes from nails or damage with wood putty. Use a putty knife to scoop the putty from the container. Press the putty into the holes with the flat edge of the knife. Allow the putty to dry.
3. Sand the paneling surface with 100 grit sandpaper. Sanding the paneling creates a textured surface enabling the primer to adhere well.
4. Paint the paneling with an oil-based primer intended for priming wood walls for painting preparation. Allow the primer to dry.
5. Use a trowel, putty knife or larger masonry trowel to apply a golf ball size dollop of joint compound or to the grooves of the paneling. Press the compound into the groove and slide the top flat edge of the knife downward, smoothing and pressing the compound into the groove at the same time. After filling all grooves with the compound, allow it to dry.
6. Apply a second coat of compound. As joint or spackling compound dry, the material shrinks. The grooves that were covered when the compound was wet will now be sunken. Refill with a second coat and allow the compound to dry.
7. Cover the wall with spray texture using a rented or purchased texture machine or cover the walls with wallpaper liner, also called paper lining or wallpaper lining, and then paint or wallpaper your resurfaced paneled walls.
Lights aim downward toward the stage to simulate natural light's direction.
No single stage lighting theory suits every performance situation. For beginning designers, two of the most common lighting theories are useful for special event lighting: McCandless lighting theory and three-point lighting. Special activities, such as dance and puppetry, have their own lighting theories, but all lighting design should focus first on visibility from the audience's point of view.
McCandless Lighting Theory
The McCandless lighting theory, developed by Stanley McCandless, considered the father of modern lighting design, proposes dividing the stage into overlapping acting areas. Two sources from the front and one source from the back light each area, forming an equilateral triangle around the area with the light fixtures with the apex at the back. The two front lights should overlap the same space, generally with one colored blue or lavender and the other colored pink or amber, mixing to form white light. Additional lights can be added straight down from the top or or low side angles. The two-point front lighting with different colors helps illuminate both sides of the performers, yet casts slightly different shadows on each side to create shape. The back light helps separate the performer from the backdrop, enhancing the visual depth. Other lights can add color or fill in shadows.
Three-Point Lighting
A popular film and photography technique, three-point lighting also divides the stage into areas. In this case, each area is lit from the front by a single source, called a "key" light, plus a back light, usually from a high or low angle (this avoids shining the light into the audience's eyes, as a medium or flat-angle back light would) and a third light from one side to fill in shadows. This lighting theory stems from the idea that natural light, such as sunlight or interior lighting, usually comes from a single source, mimicked by the key light. Back lighting adds dimension, while the fill light enhances visibility by adding soft light into the shadows left by the key light.
Dance Lighting
Dance performance lighting often relies heavily on lights from unusual angles, such as low-angle side lights or lights that shine straight up or down. The theory behind this lighting technique is that shadows help add dimension. The curves of a dancer's musculature are highlighted by side or low-angle light, which also make each movement more visible to the audience. Because body movement is often more critical than facial expression in dance, this lighting style emphasizes whole body lighting over a focus on bright face light.
Other Special Lighting
Lighting for puppetry and magicians often focuses on drawing the audience's attention to one portion of the stage while hiding other portions. Bright light from low or high angles may shine directly across the stage, so objects placed within the light are seen while puppeteers or magician's assistants are hidden in the darkness just behind the light. Stage lighting for other events also pulls from this technique, using lit areas to pull focus to certain areas of a stage while leaving other areas dark or dim to control what the audience sees.
Considerations
For any lighting situation, choose the theory or lighting style that suits the venue, available lighting equipment and performance needs. There is no wrong way to light a performance as long as the audience can see what you want them to see.
Tags: back light, from high, each area, fill shadows, from front, , light into
The porch ceiling is a part of the porch roof system, with the material tied into the bottom of the lowest truss of the porch roof. The porch ceiling material is typically a part of the background of the home's exterior. However, using the right material to finish the porch ceiling helps create an inviting space that blends beautifully with the style of the home.
Plywood
Plywood is the most common material used in covering the ceiling of a porch. Exterior grade plywood should be used. Plywood is a quick installation because of the large 4-foot by 8-foot sheets used. Plywood is often used as base under other materials.
Wood Bead Board
Wood bead board has been used for many years to cover the porch ceiling. It can be applied over plywood or exposed joists. Bead board can be painted or stained to match the home's exterior. A drawback to wood bead board is the maintenance needed to keep the board from rotting, insects and splitting.
Vinyl Bead Board
Vinyl bead board never needs painting or scraping. It can be cleaned with soap and water or a pressure washer. Vinyl bead board is easy to maintain and install with limited tools. It won't decay, crack or be susceptible to insects. It is a sustainable product, often made from recycled materials. Vinyl material comes in a wide variety of colors.
Tongue and Groove
Tongue and groove porch ceiling material comes in a variety of woods and width sizes. The boards can be custom made to your porch size. It can be stained or painted. Tongue and groove boards should be installed with stainless steel ring nails, and set to allow for expansion and contraction.
PVC
PVC, or polyvinyl chloride plastics, are made by combining polyvinyl chloride with dyes, fillers, plasticizers and stabilizers. This solid core PVC material lasts in the most severe weather. PVC is perfect for properties located on beach or coastal areas. PVC ceilings have minimal expansion issues and come in a wide selection of colors. It can be installed with the v-groove or the bead design showing.
Tags: porch ceiling, bead board, ceiling material, home exterior, installed with, material comes, polyvinyl chloride
Recessed lighting can be used in many areas of the home.
Recessed lighting has many different functions. It can light up a particular piece of artwork or decorative area. It can also be used to illuminate a work area, such as a work bench or frequently used counter in your kitchen. Other common areas where you might place recessed lighting include inside a clothes or linen closet or along a hallway. No matter what room or area you are planning to install your recessed lighting, you need to think carefully about the exact placement.
Instructions
1. Figure out the exact room and area where you want to place your recessed lighting. Then, you can determine a more exact placement. Against a wall, in a kitchen, above a window, in a hallway and near a fireplace are some common areas where you might place recessed lighting.
2. Place your approximately 2 feet from the wall if your purpose is to light up a particular painting, piece of artwork or other decorative area. This is for an 8-foot ceiling. Space the recessed lighting evenly, using enough lights to illuminate the entire area.
3. Use at least four lights in your recessed lighting to light up a general area, such as in your kitchen. Space the light about 3 feet, 2 inches from the walls and from each other. The larger the area you want to light up, the more lights you will need to use.
4. Keep the placement of your recessed lighting symmetrical and even. Haphazard placement will create uneven lighting and will look awkward if you change the decorative elements or furniture placement in your room.
Tags: your recessed, your recessed lighting, recessed lighting, recessed lighting, area such, areas where
Glass bathroom sinks are the ultimate in class and sophistication for any bathroom. Glass sinks are durable and virtually unbreakable because of the tempered glass used in the sink. Tempered glass is glass heated to high temperatures and quickly cooled, giving the glass strength and durability. Install glass sinks on top of a counter or on the wall.
Materials Needed
When deciding on installing a glass sink, decide if you want a partially submerged sink or one that sits on top of the vanity. A glass sink generally is not installed under the vanity. Glass sinks, called vessel sinks, come in two basic styles--rounded or flat bottom--and sit partially or entirely above the vanity, according to Home Design Find. Glass sinks are easier to install on top of a vanity, and this is the most popular installation. If you have a small glass sink, a wall installation is best.
You need a hole saw drill bit, standard drill bit, large piece of cardboard for a template, electric drill, glass sink and faucet and a vanity. For glass sinks, purchase silicone or a connecting ring.
Preinstall
Find the best fit for your vanity and decide where you want to cut the faucet holes; create a template with your cardboard piece. Mark the locations of the drainage and faucet holes on your template and measure. Place your template on top of the counter and transfer the measurements directly onto the counter. Make the cut on the template and trace the hole to the vanity. Use your hole saw drill bit to make your cuts. Using your standard drill bit, predrill screw holes so that fastening the faucet to the vanity is easier. After you have made all the cuts, position the sink, caulk and tighten everything in place.
Coat the parts of your that will have contact with the vanity with silicone adhesive or other countertop adhesive, according to Acme How To. If your sink is a flat or square bottom sink, coat the perimeter of the base; for a round bottom, use a small amount of adhesive at the bottom.
Place the drain hole over your vanity countertop drain opening. Once in place, insert your drain assembly through the drain opening
Maintaining Your Glass Sink
Although your glass sink is durable, it does require some special maintenance. are sensitive to severe temperature changes of up to about 70 degrees. Avoid pouring scalding water, which runs about 120 degrees F, into the sink. This causes thermal shock and the sink may shatter.
Glass sinks are durable and can withstand hairbrushes and plastic bottles being dropped into the sink, but may shatter with a heavy object.
Avoid abrasive cleansers for cleaning; use vinegar and water instead.
Flat-screens have been dominating the TV marketplace for several years now. As a result, companies and individuals are constantly coming up with new ways to display them. The traditional TV stand gave way to wall mounting, and now some people are choosing to recess the panel inside the wall. The result is a sleek modern look that makes the display appear to be part of the wall itself. This is also a great way to display a flat panel in an environment where you're trying to conserve space.
Instructions
1. Choose the area of the wall to recess the TV into, and cut a test hole. Cut a clean test hole several inches square so that you can see what is inside the wall. Make clean cuts so that you can easily patch the wall if you discover unforeseen obstacles inside the wall. Outlets on that part of the wall indicate interior wiring and piping are behind it.
2. Build a box out of 3/4-inch plywood that is the right size and depth to house your TV. Cut the plywood to size, and use glue and nails to hold the box together. Be sure you leave enough space in the box for airflow around the unit. Drill a hole in the box for power and input cables. Paint the box to either match your wall, or the TV exterior.
3. Measure and cut open a hole in the wall that is the right size for the box. A reciprocating saw is the best tool for the job. Remember to never cut until you are sure there are no wires behind the wall.
4. Install the box. Glue all sides of the box to its anchor points within the wall. Nail the box in place as well, so that you have enough strength to support the weight of your television. If you need more strength, place a 2-by-4 footer under the box.
5. Install some trim or molding around the cavity in the wall. This gives it a finished look, like a picture frame.
Tags: inside wall, part wall, right size, test hole, that right, that right size
Adding beams to your ceiling can help add overhead interest to your room. While heavy beams made from solid planks of rough lumber may require expensive changes to the structural engineering of your home, decorative beams provide a cost-effective shortcut. Decorative ceiling beams look like solid planks of wood, but are easier to install and create less weight on your ceiling joists. Hanging exposed beams over the finished Sheetrock defines your ceiling area and adds a finishing touch to the overall design of your home or room.
Instructions
1. Make the beams run perpendicular to the underlying ceiling joists. Determine the location and direction of the joists by using an electronic stud finder on your ceiling.
2. Measure your ceiling. Divide your ceiling into even increments for the beam placement. Determine the spacing for your beams, according to your individual design and personal tastes. Make pencil marks along the outside edges of the ceiling to denote the placement of each beam. Snap a chalk line to show the marks in place along the expanse of the ceiling.
3. Attach lengths of 1-by-4-inch lumber over the center of the snapped chalk marks. Lay the flat side of the boards along the chalk lines. Drill 2-inch screws into the underlying ceiling joists to hold the lumber in place. These pieces of lumber will act as the center attachments for your decorative beams.
4. Create box shapes out of the remaining 1-by-4-inch pieces of lumber by attaching the edges of two pieces of lumber along the sides of the attached section of wood, using finishing nails to hold them in place. Connect the fourth side into the lower opening to close up the box, creating a hollow beam that resembles a solid piece of lumber.
5. Drive the finishing nails slightly below the surface of the wood using a sail set, creating tight joints and hiding the nail heads from view. Fill the nail holes with wood putty. Let the putty dry completely.
6. Sand the . Apply the color wood stain of your choice. Finish the beams with a coat of varnish or clear wood sealer.
Tags: your ceiling, ceiling joists, pieces lumber, ceiling beams, decorative beams, finishing nails
Find the room's center to help ensure uniform ceiling panel installation.
Ceiling panels are made in a wide variety of styles, including bead board, stippled and tile, as well as a range of materials, including wood, fiber board and polyvinyl chloride. They provide ample opportunity to transform a ceiling to fit the function and aesthetics of a room. Installing large panels allows for the speedy coverage of a large ceiling. If installed haphazardly, however, panel edges may not lay flush, creating exposed or uneven panel joints. If installed correctly, on the other hand, multiple panels will cover a ceiling seamlessly.
Instructions
1. Inspect the ceiling. Verify that all nails that held the previous ceiling covering were removed; if some remain, take them out. Scrape or sand major bumps of old adhesive. Ensure that the ceiling backing is flat and in sound condition and that the corners where the walls meet the ceiling look square.
2. Measure and mark the corresponding centers of facing walls. Run chalk lines on the ceiling between the marks. Snap the chalk lines to divide the ceiling into quadrants.
3. Install the first panel in one of the inside corners of one of the ceiling quadrants. The inside corners are the center point of the ceiling. Beginning in the center and working toward the walls ensures flush panel seams because starting and abutting the first panels to a wall can cause offset panels due to irregularities in the wall. Affix the panels to the ceiling as directed by the ceiling panels' manufacturer. Panels may require adhesive, tacks or nails.
4. Install additional panels, continuing to work from the ceiling's center toward the walls. Measure each remaining space between panels and the walls, and use a saw to cut pieces of panel to fit the spaces. Secure the edge ceiling panel pieces in place.
5. Conceal seams between ceiling panels if necessary. Some panels may not have hidden joints and require treatment to hide the joints. Options include attaching trim along the seams or filling the seams with wood filler or caulk.
Wood paneling now features a variety of styles to complement rooms with different floor types.
Wood paneling comes in a variety of styles and textures to enhance a room's appearance. It's now featured in raised, panel wainscoting among other modern designs, which is a far cry from the traditional brown, veneer wood paneling seen in homes built in the 1970s and early 1980s. Updated wood paneling designs have given way to new flooring options that help tie the room's d cor together.
Marble Tiled Floors
For a more for formal look in a foyer or dining room, pair marble floors . The combination provides a clean look while enhancing the look and feel of a space and making it appear larger. Pool villas at Caesar's Palace in Las Vegas feature this look. Designers chose raised wood paneling in white for the walls and traditional white marble tile with gold inlay for the floors.
Hardwood Floors
Although it may once have been a design faux pas to mix different wood finishes in a single space, that rule no longer applies. The availability of multiple wood paneling finishes has made it possible to install hardwood floors in a room with wood paneling. For example, raised wainscoting stained with a light wood finish on the walls paired with dark wood parquet floors is a complementary combination for a dining or living room. The combined woods make a space feel comfortable and warm and offer a contrast of texture that allows each element to stand out.
Berber Carpet
While some people shy away from mixing carpet with wood-paneled walls, the right carpet can complete a room's look. Homeowners who prefer carpet, especially in a basement, office or den, often pair Berber carpet with wood paneling. Berber carpet is characterized by its looped pile. Its relatively short weave is not as bulky as most conventional carpet varieties, so it's less likely to make a space feel confined and small than other carpet styles. It generally holds up to high-traffic areas. Berber carpeting is available in a variety of colors and designs to complement, not conflict with, wood-paneled walls.
Tags: wood paneling, with wood-paneled, with wood-paneled walls, wood-paneled walls, Berber carpet
Always remove the fixture from the wall before cleaning.
Brass lighting fixtures have a bold look that creates a dramatic statement in your home. The advantage to using brass over another type of material is that the brass fits equally well with a modern-style home or one filled with antiques. Exposure to the air causes a common problem referred to as tarnishing. Tarnishing causes the brass to take on a dull appearance and develop a dark appearance. Refinishing the brass with rubbing oil restores the lighting fixture, but you must also clean the brass.
Instructions
1. Unscrew any light bulbs from inside the fixture, and set them in a safe place. Remove the fixture from the wall, and take out any glass panels or other non-brass features of the light.
2. Add a few drops of mild dish soap to a plastic bucket, and fill it with warm water. Submerge the brass lighting fixture in the water, and lightly rub the soapy solution onto the brass with your hands. Rinse the lighting fixture carefully with fresh water, and pat dry with a soft towel.
3. Pour the vinegar and salt in a small bowl and stir until well combined. Add a few drops of citrus oil, if you like the light scent. Add the flour, 1 tsp. at a time, until the mixture forms a thick paste . Rub the paste onto all brass areas of the , and wait for the paste to form a thick crust on the brass. It may take up to an hour for the paste to completely dry. Rinse with fresh water, and rub off the paste, then pat dry.
4. Place a small amount of regular olive oil on a lint-free cloth. Rub the oil onto the brass lighting fixture, using a circular motion. Apply a thin and even coating of the oil to the brass, rubbing the oil onto the brass areas.
5. Wipe the brass lighting fixture down with a second lint-free cloth. Use the same circular motion, and wipe off any traces of the oil. The oil gives the brass a bright shine that makes it look new again.
If you have olive skin, you should revel in the fact that you are the object of envy for many women, as you generally need to wear less makeup to get a high style look. Your skin naturally glows and rarely requires concealer; however, like all women, matching makeup to skin tone is tricky business. A few tips can help.
Instructions
1. Wear concealer and foundation on olive skin only if you have an acne problem, scars or large pores. Because those with darker skin generally have less of these annoying problems, things are most likely better left alone. However, always wash your skin with a mild cleanser and apply an oil-free sunscreen before you begin your makeup. If you happen to have oily skin, apply a light dusting of powder instead of applying heavy liquid foundations.
2. Choose a blush that highlights your skin tone, choosing peaches, apricots, tans or even bronze instead of the rosy pinks that are more suitable for pale skin. Don't be afraid to layer the blush with more than one color for a more dynamic look.
3. Use highlighting of bronzer which is better applied on pale skin. Select bronze colored highlighting powders, applying to any area of the face which catches light, such as the forehead, nose, cheekbones, chin and even the chest. Apply the powder lightly with a large soft brush, dusting before you apply eye and lip makeup.
4. Select just about any color of eyeshadow you like, depending on the look you are going for; however, as with blush, olive skin tones should shy away from pinks as they only look artificial on your rich-colored skin. While you can easily wear greens, blues and purples when selecting eyeshadow, stick with darker colors instead of pastels. Additionally, you simply cannot go wrong with metallic silver and gold.
5. Keep your eyeliner and mascara dark as well. Unless you are going for a while colored look, mascara should always be black. Eyeliner on the other hand can be a great way to spice up your look, choosing dark blues, purples, greens or even charcoal.
6. Bring pink makeup into your look only for your lips; however, shades should match your natural lip color as much as possible. Wearing bright or pastel pinks is completely off limits for olive skin; however, a nice mauve or deep red is sensual and sexy. For a lighter daytime look, stick with simple, clear lipgloss.
Tags: olive skin, blues purples, pale skin, powder instead, skin tone, stick with
A patchy paint job on the ceiling is an eyesore and a waste of time.The presence of an uneven coat of paint means that there is more work ahead. Here are some possible reasons why your ceiling is not looking up to par.
Thin Paint
One possibility is that you used a paint that was way too thin. Perhaps you purchased the cheapest grade of ceiling paint on the market or maybe you painted from a previously opened can of paint that had been watered down, thus making the paint difficult to apply.
Inadequate Application
It is also possible that your means of application was inadequate. Ceiling paint needs to be applied with a 9-inch paint roller. During this process it is vital that you have ample paint on the roller pad, when you apply the paint, and that you evenly spread the paint around the entire ceiling.
Lack of a Primer Coat
In many instances when painting over a previous paint job, a primer-sealer needs to be spread across the ceiling first. This is especially true in old houses and if don't use a sealer, then the ceiling might appear patchy afterwords.
Wrong Type of Sealer
It is possible that you used a sealer that was not designed to cover old walls or old paint. Check your product carefully before you begin and buying top of the line brands helps insure a better-looking final result.
Faulty Equipment
If you are using an old roller pad, make sure that is thoroughly clean and that there is no dried paint on the roller. This may create a patchy appearance, when your task is complete.
Forgot To Wash Surface
Before painting over old paint, it is vital to wash the walls with soap and water and rinse thoroughly to remove all soap residues. Excess grease can cause a patchy finish, as can a surface that is washed with soap but not rinsed.
Before , ensure it is in good condition, and properly prepared. Remove and replace any loose nails. Fill any gaps or spaces like nail holes with an acrylic caulk. Cut away protruding caulk on the molding with a utility knife. Crown moulding made from certain types of porous wood should be sealed before painting. If the crown moulding has yet to be installed, paint it before installing it. It will be much easier to work with.
Instructions
1. Vacuum the moulding with the hose and brush attachment on your vacuum.
2. Tape the portion of the wall and ceiling directly adjacent to the moulding to avoid getting paint where it doesn't belong.
3. Lay plastic sheeting or canvas on the floor beneath the section of crown moulding you are painting. This will prevent any accidental drips from coating the floor.
4. Apply one coat of paint. Remove excess paint from your brush. Wipe it on the edge of the paint pot after each dip. Otherwise, paint may drip down the brush and onto your hand or the floor. Allow the paint to dry according to the manufacturer's instructions. Apply a second coat in the same manner.