I have a husqvarna weed trimmer with a C1Q zama carburetor. It was not running properly. So I bought a zama repair kit. After installing the kit, I cannot get the primer bulb to operate properly. I tried different configurations on the gasket/diaphram positions, but nothing seems to make a difference. It has a new fuel filter. The primer bulb will not pick up the fuel. It goes in and out with little resistance. Although in one configuration it won't expand after pushing it in, so I don't think that is correct. I only tried different positions after it failed to operate. Here's the ZAMA site with manuals USA Zama : Service Tips are the fuel lines connected properly? Ok, progress of sorts. I went to zama's site as posted by GlenM. I Took apart the carb, reassembled to make sure it was correct. Filter is new, replaced hoses. I can finally get the primer to work. But it still won't start properly. The only way to get it to start is on half choke with the accelerator completely depressed. It will speed up for about 3 seconds and then die. It will not start normally. It has a new spark plug, new fuel ( just purchased ). New fuel oil. I cleaned the exhaust port. Even tried running it without the spark arrestor on it. Any ideas. Thanks for the reply, by the way. I appreciate it. This was the original problem that led me to by a kit in the first place. You didn't mention it, but did you completely disassemble it, including removal of L and H mixture needles? and give it a good cleaning? My experience has been when installing a dry carb, it takes 10 or so purge bulb pushes to fill the carb and get the primer bulb full. L and H needles should be turned out 1 1/4 - 1 1/2 turns. Make sure fuel level completely covers the fuel filter. Unless unit has ez or simple start, normal procedure is full choke on, throttle full on, pull til it pops, half-choke, pull til it starts, warm 5-10 seconds, choke full off. then carb has to be tweaked to run right. hth
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I have a Whirlpool Calypso washing machine that has (what I believe is) a clogged pump. Can anyone tell me step by step get at the pump to clean it out? I'm new to fixing home appliances. I tried disassembling everything inside the wash tub itself to try and get at the pump inlet but I'm stumped. HELP!!! Oh, the reason I believe the pump is clogged is because it did the same thing last year and after paying the service guy $80 just to come out spend 20 minutes to pull out a dryer sheet from the pump inlet. I'd call him again, but being a member of Michigan's unemployed million, not an option this time. Thank you Jennifer Granholm. use a putty Knife and push in 2 clips 1 on each side between front panel and top. Clips are 2 to 4 inches from sides. pull up on top as each clip is pushed. top pivots up. remove 4 screws in front panel and take panel off. Tilt washer back aginest wall and remove 3 screws holding lower panel on. pump is black thoing with 2 hoses attached. If pump has 2 spring clips holding it on it is the old style and I would replace it with a new one with a motor and pump assembly. If new style remove 4 torex screws in black part of pump and take lint ball or sock out of it. Make sure the impeller turns freely as sometimes string will tangle around shaft. Put a pan under pump there will be water coming out. Did you take the basket out? if you did be sure there is nothing in the holes in back where the water drains out. usual problem is a bra wire stuck in one of the drain holes with a ball of lint on it. Thanks for the help. I'll give it a shot tonight and post back if I run into any snags. I had taken apart the agitator, and stuff inside, all that is left inside is the steel tub inside the plastic one and the center piece. How do you like that technical jargon? I'll see what sort of damage I can do. Alright, maybe Im just blind. Ater I tipped the lid back, I couldn't find the 4 front panel screws or 3 lower panel screws. Are there screws holding the back panel on? Is the pump on the backside of the tub or front? I apologize for my ignorance but, this thing looks like it's all one piece lol. 4 screws look where the clips are 4 philips or torex. screws spaced across top of panel. Pull machine out from wall and tilt back aginest wall and 3 5/16 screws in front of bottom panel under machine. Pump is in back of machine on right side as you look in it. Has 2 hoses connected. Hope this helps Get model # from machine go to Sears parts and put number in and there will be diagram of machine also with top up look on inside of front panel and there is a complete test proceedure for machine. May even tell change pump. Not to sure about that though. Thanks for the help, I'll be out of town this weekend but I'll give it a shot Tuesday and post my prgoress. I have same washer - would not drain. After taking off the hoses etc looking for clogs and not finding them, I went on-line and learned about the bra underwire stuck in the hole where the check ball is supposed to seat problem. Sure enough, I flipped the washer on it's front and used a flashlight to see through the opaque plastic tub - that was the problem. Since there was no easy way to reach the wiresclog to remove them, I took the plunge and drilled a hole right in the plastic tub. I fished out the gunk, then re-sealed the hole with a rubber plug (see photo - I will try to upload one) plus a little silicone sealer. Washer drains fine and cost me about 20 cents to fix. I can go back and re-clean if necessary too. The way I take out bra wires is to open top, take off tub ring, remove wash plate cap, take out 6 bolts holding washplate in, remove wash plate and look though holes in basket bottom, I have a pair of long forceps that reaches the wire and pulls it out. One machine I found 4 bra wires in it.
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I bought a home with a well water chlorinator system. I need to refill the solutions tank and don't have any real instructions. The former owner told me to fill it with three bottles of household bleach and the rest in water. My question...in the bottom of the solutions tank, there is some brownish, crytallized looking gunk. Is that residue from the iron-heavy water and do I dump all that BEFORE I add the solution, or does it stay in there? I'd clean it out. It has no use and is only a contaminate. Then, the normal dilution is 1:5 I always thought... That's one gallon of bleach (non fragranced, etc.) to 5 gallons of water. So, depending on the size of the container you have.. The key is to NOT have a chlorine smell to the water once it gets to your house. You can trial and error it from wherever you want until you find just the right amount so that any more concentration of bleach results in a chlorine smell to the water. Then you know you have it right. One gallon bleach to five gallons water...gotcha. I don't know how many gallons the tank holds but I'll find out. Thanks MD for your help. I cleaned it out and put in the water/bleach. It seemed to work for awhile. Now, I have a suspicion that the chlorinator isn't working. All I have is the maintenance manual for some reason and all it does is talk about initial installation. To test for operation it says I need, the proper testing equipment. The water seems to have a sulpher smell sometimes and no chlorine smell. When the well pump runs, I usually hear the chlorinator run as well, but lately, I haven't heard it. The amount in the holding tank is less than when I started, but lately I can't tell if any more has gone through. Tonight, I plan to mark the water level and see if it has dropped. In the meantime, does anyone know test the thing to make sure it's working? The chlorinator should be wired so that it runs when the well pump runs. Simply start the water running outside and wait until the well pump cuts on. Does the chlorinator pump run also? Even if it does, the chlorinator pumps the solution into a small tube and injects it into the main well pump drop pipe before the check valve (if you have one above ground.) That injector commonly gets clogged. You simply need to remove the injector and clean it. If you can, run the chlorinator pump with the injector removed to see the solution being pumped through the injector. Originally Posted by mdtaylor The chlorinator should be wired so that it runs when the well pump runs. Simply start the water running outside and wait until the well pump cuts on. Does the chlorinator pump run also? Even if it does, the chlorinator pumps the solution into a small tube and injects it into the main well pump drop pipe before the check valve (if you have one above ground.) That injector commonly gets clogged. You simply need to remove the injector and clean it. If you can, run the chlorinator pump with the injector removed to see the solution being pumped through the injector. Thanks, I'll figure out which one goes to the drop pipe. Will it hurt if air gets into it? Should I disconnect at the pump or at the drop pipe? (it's above ground). Or try both? Maybe a picture would help... a chlorine injection system usually has a small pump with a 1/4 or 3/8 line sucking the chlorine solution and a similar sized line (very flexible) that runs over and taps into your pipe just before you well water enters your tank. Take it loose there. The injector in screwed into the larger pipe and has the small tubing attached to it. If you have a jet pump then you may quite likely loose a prime, and you may even have tank pressure on that line all the time. Use caution. You may need to relieve the pressure on your tank. I found out it's only seven months old so I'm trying to get the guy that installed it out there. In the meantime, I took that hose off and nothing...just seems dead. Originally Posted by Needtawrite I found out it's only seven months old so I'm trying to get the guy that installed it out there. In the meantime, I took that hose off and nothing...just seems dead. The guy came out and replace it for free. Now, I have a different problem. I have a whole house water filter (one of those blue casings). I replaced the filter awhile back and am experiencing a weird problem. After less than a week, the water flow into the house slows to a trickle. I changed the house water filter again it worked fine...for awhile. Now, it's slowed again. The problem is somewhere in the filter setup. I've been trying to research into what would cause it but, no luck. Any ideas? I'm thinking the filter is the wrong one. After that week what does your filter look like? It obviously sounds like you have solids that your filter is trapping and it's clogging the filter. The fix would depend on what the filter is trapping. You may need a sand filter or a smaller screen on your well. Sometimes a series of progressively smaller strainers and filters will cure the problem. The real key is to attack the problem at it's source. You just need to find the source. Originally Posted by mdtaylor After that week what does your filter look like? It obviously sounds like you have solids that your filter is trapping and it's clogging the filter. The fix would depend on what the filter is trapping. You may need a sand filter or a smaller screen on your well. Sometimes a series of progressively smaller strainers and filters will cure the problem. The real key is to attack the problem at it's source. You just need to find the source. Thank you, I know it's hard to tell without looking at it. I believe I have the wrong filter (less than 20 microns) so I'll try a different one.
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I have about 700sq. ft. of siding and 120 linear ft. of soffits to install. Considering it's not so much real estate, and my time is free, I was leaning towards screw fasteners. Added benefit would be ease of assuring proper fastener clearance. If going this route I would choose #8 - 1 1/4 pan/truss. My questions would be zinc or stainless and whether there is any practical difference between pan and truss? Also, any compelling reasons to go with galvanized nails instead of screws? Cheers! I often use screws in soffits or on the tail ends of furring strips if they are not well supported. There is nothing more frustrating than trying to drive a nail into a board that springs back. I would go with a truss head which has a lower profile and wider head than a pan head. Eventually, even though they are protected from the weather the zinc plated hardware will rust. If you are close to the coast with salt spray in the air I would go for stainless if you can afford them but if you are further inland I'd go with zinc plated. Nails generally go in faster and are less expensive then screws and a hammer is a less expensive tool than a quality screw gun or cordless drill. That's the only benefit to nails that I know of. I've had them slowly work their way out of old houses after many freeze thaw cycles and changing humidity make the wood expand and contract. When I go back and repair I use screws and have never had one come loose. Just to add to Dane's comments, don't overtighten any fastener in the siding process as it has to expand and contract with the weather. You can tell a bad job driving down the street with ripples in it, you know the fasteners were too tight. And if you can find coated screws (mostly used for decking) use them, as the coating will outlast zinc or galvanization. But nothing will beat stainless. Much appreciate the great replies guys, practical hands-on info I was looking for! Looks like Bolt Depot has 1000ct #8 1-1/4 truss 18-8 stainless for an extremely reasonable $65. One box is likely to fill my needs. Cheers! 1000 fasteners, if placed every 16 along a 12' piece of siding, would do approximately 100 pieces of siding. That would be about 4 boxes, or 8 squares. (800 sq ft - or a wall 8' high, 100' long.) So your 1000 ct box might be enough as long as you don't drop any. Originally Posted by XSleeper So your 1000 ct box might be enough as long as you don't drop any. Thanks for the additional info! You spurred me to running the numbers again and it looks like I had better keep the grass cut short. 67pc of double 5 should require at max 600 screws, add in trim and soffits and 1000ct is likely a squeaker. One additional question -- What style stagger for panel overlaps tends to look better, 2' stair-stepped, totally random (i.e. wood flooring) or, something else? Cheers! I like to keep the stagger no less than 32. But it depends on the length of the wall and the amount of waste it might create. We discussed that recently in this other thread. http://www.doityourself.com/forum/lu...yl-siding.html Originally Posted by XSleeper I like to keep the stagger no less than 32. ... We discussed that recently in this other thread. Nail on the head AGAIN! The reply you posted in that link makes perfect sense. It also reminds me that cuts should be on stud (hence 32, not 24) and after taking a second look at my two neighbors vinyl it's clear they overlapped at 16 intervals which emphasized the stair-step look. They also overlapped towards the focal point making for a very visible seam. I should apologize, asked my question in haste before doing a proper search. Cheers! Originally Posted by golem They also overlapped towards the focal point making for a very visible seam. That's something I didn't mention but it's good you noticed that! Lapping siding so that the shadow lines are hidden from the most visible spots (driveway / street / main approaches / decks, etc) is a detail that some people wouldn't notice... but if you do notice it, it would drive you nuts! Overlapping joints don't necessarily have to be on studs, but your nailing pattern often will be.
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I have a Troy Bilt push mower with a Briggs motor which was starting but dying after not using for around 2 months. I flushed the old gas out of and took off the carburetor and applied Carburetor Cleaning solution to internal parts. No build up appears to be in the bowl or around the float. I also replaced the spark plug and applied a new air filter. I now cannot start the mower and also notice that the primer does not appear to be moving any gas through. Any suggestions? Model, type and code number off your engine please. Have you tried to start it with a prime? Troy Bilt 210 Tuff Cut 6.5HP push mower. I have tried to start with prime and also applied engine starting fluid to see if that would work. Fuel line is slightly worn with a few cracks but no leaks are evident. Also when I took off carburetor I noticed gas was flowing thru line. Model: 12A-466N063/700 Serial#: 1G102K11259 Please post the numbers from the engine, not the mower, they are usually on the metal shroud just above the spark plug. Have a good one. Geo Well I am betting that you have a Briggs engine. I would recheck the carburetor, particularly the bowl nut there are some orifices in this nut and you need to make sure they are clean and all are open. As for the priming, there is a gasket between the air filter plate and the carburetor that must have a good seal in order for the primer to operate properly, so check this gasket and replace if needed. There is also a seal around the intake manifold (O-Ring) make sure its in place when the carburetor is reinstalled on the engine or you can have an air leak, that may prevent the engine from starting or running properly. Keep in mind that without the specific model number off of your engine, not all of this may apply. Numbers on the engine: 123K02-0196E1 02062859 Yes it is a BS engine. O-ring around carb bowl appears worn and I cannot find any gasket around plastic air filter cover. The air filter is a paper/waffle brand so I assume blue lining should act as the seal. I'll take carb off again check the nut. I have been spraying Carb cleaning solution on the parts should I soak them in something else to be effective? Thanks for the help, I'm really trying to fix on my own without taking to a shop which are backed up here for several weeks. Any help is much appreciated. Originally Posted by jwwende I cannot find any gasket around plastic air filter cover. The air filter is a paper/waffle brand so I assume blue lining should act as the seal. I am not talking about the air filter itself, I am talking about the air filter base that is screwed onto the front of the carburetor. There is a gasket that seals the air filter base to the carburetor. The primer pulses pass through this area to push fuel up the main jet of the carburetor to prime the engine. A leak between the base and carburetor will affect primer performance. OK, I do not see any gasket there. So I assume it is either worn off or came off when I removed/replaced the air filter. I'll post photos tomorrow If it didn't even start with the shot of starting fluid, I'd say you have other problems like no spark possibly. Have you checked for spark? Photos showing lawnmower with air filter and carb: http://www.flickr.com/photos/29907352@N05/?saved=1 Can't do it tonight but I'll take carb apart again and provide more photos if that would help. Let me know. Again, I did install a new spark plug, not sure where to check for sparks. Take the plug out, connect it to the plug wire, and then position it so that the metal part of the spark plug is touching metal on the engine. Then have someone pull the pull rope while you watch for sparks at the electrode of the plug. OK, I have taken carburetor out again and cleaned gaskets and individual pieces. One question is reseat the needle valve? Any suggestions? If your talking about the inlet needle on thats on the float, the answer is you don't. There is a small viton seat in the carburetor, this can be replaced, but otherwise it's not servicable.
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I simply do not understand what is being passed off as toilet rough-in these days. Shouldn't the back of the tank be flush against the wall with a correctly measured rough-in (closet bolts to wall)??? Why am I getting a 1 and half inch gap behind the toilet tank?? Seems this is the case with many different mfg. these days. Thanks Gene An allowance of 12-13 from the center of the drain pipe to the finished wall is normal. In some instances you will have a gap behind the toilet. Better to have a gap and be able to wallpaper or paint behind it than to have it jammed. Yeah but it looks rediculous to have a 2.25 inch gap between tank and wall. Seems like they are pawning off excess inventory 10 in. rough in toilets as 12 in. rough-in. I've noticed this phenomenon in some American Standard, Gerber, Glacier Bay, and Waterridge units. Now I have to buy an etagiere for $100 to cover up this unsightly gap. This is nuts.... All offsets are plainly marked on the box, so it would seem buying the toilet may have been just as much a problem as someone pawning it off. 10 offset toilets are almost a specialty item. Measure from your bolts to the wall and see if it is 12 or 14. The rough in could have been off a little as well. I have never had a problem with any of the brands you mentioned leaving a 2 gap behind the tank. Larry, Maybe you should abide by your own signature line a tad more and actually read what other people are saying. I can read specs off a box - when they say it is a 12 rough-in, I expect the toilet dimensions measured from floor bolt to the back of the tank to be about 11 3/4 - 12 inches. I don't expect that to measure 10 inches if the box says 12 inches. What I am finding is that many of these so-called 12 toilets are actually 10. Even the the floor person at Home Depot agreed with me when I put the measuring tape to some of the display models they had. Most were off though it seemed that Kohler tended to have the proper measurement on their models. Hope that clarifies the issue for you. Gene Gene: I was reading what you wrote, but it seemed you were blaming the manufacturer for producing inferiorly short toilets, and pawning them off as full size units. Like I said, I have installed my share of them, in different brands, and have never had the problem you are describing. HD may have put up the 10 back set units on their displays on purpose to save room, not sure. So measuring them isn't the same as measuring one in the box, which is advertised as a 12 back set. Sorry if I came on a little strong, but manufacturers are bound by standards and blanketly blaming the industry for a abnormality isn't fair. OK, I'll defer to your experience that there is no toilet industry conspiracy going on. But when I buy a 12 in toilet and it measures 10 in - that is a problem - no??? Anyway, I think I'm going to try leaning the tank backwards toward the wall a bit to see if that hides the gap a bit. Though it'll probably look worse cause the top of the tank will not be level. We'll see.... Did some research on this by looking up the specs on differnt mfg websites. What they all show is that a 12 in rough-in toilet on average leaves about a 1 inch gap behind the tank. So if you want the tank to actually be flush with the wall you would have to measure about 11 inches from wall to flange bolt. I have a Crane in my home that sets out 1 1/2 from wall and rough in is 12 from finished drywall. On another job I just installed a American Standard Cadet 3-12 Rough in, and it sets out 1 3/4 from 12 finished drywall. Both of these rough in's are dead on 12. Looks like hell doesn't it? Born 40 years to soon. Best info given: IT VARIES BY MANUFACTURER I looked all over the Web to find any useful info about toilet rough-ins. I'm posting this in hopes that it may help some future soul. I just renovated my bathroom, adding 3/8 paneling. This, of course, was just thick enough so that the toilet no longer fit! It's 10.5 inches from the drain center to the wall. I knew that some 12 models give as much as 2 clearance in the back. I already had the bowl in place with a new wax seal. If only I could swap to a tank that wasn't so deep to the wall! I'm dreaming, right? The cardinal rule seemed to be, tanks and bowls of different brands are not compatible. Even the salesperson at HD insisted this fact. But my measurements indicated otherwise. That $30 Glacier Bay tank at HD sure looked like it would fit on my American Standard Cadet, and it sure looked narrower front-to-back, though I couldn't measure it in the store. So, I bit my lip and bought the darn thing, took it out to the car, opened and measured it. Sure enough, 3/4 less depth from the tank bolts to the back than my present tank. Tank holes were in the right place, gasket looked the same. Well, to make a long story even longer, brought it home and it fits perfectly! Glacier Bay tank, American Standard bowl, didn't have to buy a 10 rough in toilet. New tank clears the wall, just fine. Manufacturers don't publish the tank clearance dimensions. Cross compatibility info? Good luck with that! Just one lone poster here to say that I tempted fate, rolled the dice and won! :-)
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My condo has a central boiler on top of the 12-storey building that feeds hot water to baseboard heater in each unit. There is a room thermostat that operates a zone valve to control the flow of hot water hence the heat. Few months back the heat in my apartment was on all the time regardless of the thermostat setting. A repair guy sent by the building superintendent replaced the old parts with a TAC normally-open zone valve, a TAC modulating valve, and a TAC thermostat. After the repair, when I turned the thermostat to high, the heat would turn off (the zone valve closed); when I turned the thermostat to low, the heat would turn on (the zone valve opened). The repair guy and the superintendent refused to correct the situation saying that the heat can now be turned “on” and “off”. Anyway, it seems to me that if I switch the wire in the thermostat from the “W” terminal to the “Y” terminal, my heating system would be working properly. The TAC thermostat is 24 Vac and has 3 terminals labelled “Y”, “R” and “W”. Right now there is a single wire each connected to the “R” and the “W” terminals. Please let me know if I am right. Thanks. I'm unfamiliar with this system. However, your logic makes sense to me. Originally Posted by hvactechfw I'm unfamiliar with this system. However, your logic makes sense to me. Thanks. I am also thinking what is the difference between this set up and using a heat only reverse acting thermostat. correct that would be the same concept as using the Y terminal on your current stat. The current stat is a SPDT stat. Choosing Y is is just opening the circuit on temp drop instead of closing the circuit. Originally Posted by hvactechfw correct that would be the same concept as using the Y terminal on your current stat. The current stat is a SPDT stat. Choosing Y is is just opening the circuit on temp drop instead of closing the circuit. so are you saying that it is the same as using a heat only reverse acting thermostat? yes. that is exactly what I'm saying. Originally Posted by hvactechfw yes. that is exactly what I'm saying. Thanks. I will test it out and see. The only thing I am wondering is why then they want to make a heat only reverse acting thermostat, if we can do without by doing it my way. From the web, I can see that the 2 are more or less the same price. because your thermostat is meant for heating or cooling. But it uses the same concept as heat only reverse acting. yours is heat only or cool only (heat only reverse acting) Originally Posted by hvactechfw because your thermostat is meant for heating or cooling. But it uses the same concept as heat only reverse acting. yours is heat only or cool only (heat only reverse acting) Thanks for all your info.
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i bought a dining table and 6 chairs made out of unfinished parawood - the one that comes from plantations in malaysia. i stained them using an oil-based stain. the result were really blotchy especially on the chairs. i have 6 very different looking chairs!! i didnt preseal or apply a sanding sealer bcoz i was told that parawood is a very dense wood that stains well. i sanded to 220 grit b4 applying the stain. the 2nd coat didnt help at all. after 1 coat of thinned polyurethane i do not see any difference in the uneven tone of the wood. what shud i do to even out the color? i have 2 dark and 4 light toned chairs. will applying polyshades help even things out? i can try a darker shade than my current stain, to cover up the blotchiness. but b4 i do that i wanted to get expert advice help!!! thanks, nams I have bought and finished various unfinished pieces that I believe are made from the same type of wood. The only problem I had was it tended to stain light as it wouldn't obsorb as much stain as oak would. Usually 1 coat of stain is all that wood is given prior to sealing. Did you wipe the excess stain off after you applied it? Since polyshades is a tinted poly, it will darken or add color to what it is applied to. I'm not sure if I know what you mean by blotchy. If it is just different colors in the grain of the wood then tinted poly will help. If you have areas that have too much stain on them you might be better off stripping them and starting over. yes i did wipe off the stain b4 i coated the clear finish. i bought minwax polyshades in bombay mahogany but its really thick. and thats why its difficult to apply. can i thin it with mineral spirits? do i wipe it on with a foam brush? the 1st coat of polyshades tends to look pinkish. will the 2nd coat really bring out the color? thanks nams Polyshades can be tricky to apply so [if needed] it should be thinned so it can be applied evenly. It is ok to use mineral spirits. I never use foam brushes but instead use good bristle brushes [for oil base only]. The main thing is the poly needs to be applied evenly. Polyshades is clear poly with a little color added to it. If you have any lap marks [which means that area has 2 coats] they will have more color than the rest of the wood. Did you stir the polyshades well? Each coat will add a little more color to the finish. thanks for ur response i am a little disappointed with the results esp on the chairs. i want to start over. the problem is this is a very open grained wood and i dont know how a chmical stripper wud work on it. any ideas? thanks namrata Think about washing them off with acetone, protect your hands of course. let dry lightly sand them with 220 , and maybe entertain the idea of using a gel stain by Woodkote I would apply the stain using a technique called dry brushing. It lets you move the stain where you want and where you don't . let the stain dry.then finish as you would with any oil based product. I'd for get the Polyshade idea. stripper is a harsh way to go , look at my above post, and if you wanted to to a little more to some color out give them a bath with warm water and TSP. dry and then move on....you'll never get all the color out and return to square one , you can only proceed with damage control.....Good luck ! Definitely to fix this, I agree - acetone and then sand after it dries. And anytime staining parawood, use gel stain. Woodcaft has some really good gel stain. And as a side note, rule of thumb is never switch brands half way through either (I know you didn't do that - just for anyone else reading this) - i.e. pre-treat, stain and then seal all with the same brand, start to finish, whatever the brand is. One other tip - don't sand with any grey sanding media. I used a grey sanding sponge, and I wound up with what looked like white chalky powder under the polyurethane. I had to sand down, acetone, re-stain and re-coat - ARGHHH. Stick with the orange/yellow or tan sand papers. Welcome to the forums wspier! There shouldn't be any problem switching brands of poly as long as they are of the same base [all oil base or all waterbased] It is natural for white dust to be a by product of sanding. As long as you remove the sanding dust prior to applying the next coat of poly, it shouldn't be a problem. I routinely use the sanding sponges on most any poly'd surface that isn't flat and have never had any issues. We are finishing a dining room set in parawood. Since we wanted to make sure to get the result we were looking for we tested the underside of the table first. After buying and testing two Minwax oil stains, two Minwax Polyshades and a Minwax gel stain we did not like any of the results (and we pre conditioned the wood also). Frustrated I went searching online and came across positive comments for General Finish gel stain. After traveling 45 minutes to buy the gel stain in Java I am so happy with the result and ease, well worth the additional cost. The unfinished furniture store employee said to sand with 150 and DO NOT pre condition the wood, WOW the dining room set looks AWSOME! One coat will do it but we are going to apply a quick second coat before doing the top coat. We are also going to apply the General Finish gel top coat in the satin finish. I am so Happy with the result I will only use General Finish for future projects. I am already looking at other unfinished pieces to work on. Welcome to the forums Grammie! While I've done my share of staining/finishing over the years I don't recall ever using any 'general finish' products but for the most part they all work the same. Generally it isn't a good idea to apply a 2nd coat of stain. Interior wood stains rely a lot on absorbtion to dry [they aren't formulated with a lot of drying agents] Because of this, it can be difficult for a 2nd coat of stain to dry. Often when applying the 1st coat of sealer/poly [over multiple coats of stain] the solvents in the poly will rewet and move some of the stain around. An oil base poly/varnish will darken the natural colors that are in the stain and wood. Waterbased polys don't change the wood color any, they also don't dry to as hard a finish as their oil base counterpart You can't get ever wood dark enough when you use wood conditioner, so if it wasn't getting dark enough that was the whole problem. It seems that since this wood does contain sap in the form of latex, it's possible that this is what is responsible for the inconsistent color. Like it's already unevenly preconditioned? So don't some woods benefit from a wipe down with solvent before staining? I had to add unfinished furniture feet my parawood bed frame (already stained from the factory) to make it taller. I had to match the color of the bed frame to the feet. I used generals water based stain (and water based finish). Water based stains in this brand has more color pigment. Since I stained it dark (brown mohogony and rosewood), I DID NOT use a conditioner. I bought these colors to intermix to get the color I wanted. Since I was a hair colorist in a beauty salon this helped me get the results I wanted. The results were beautiful. If I were staining a lighter color, I would have used a conditioner, as the conditioner will soak in the wood. My husband has stained furniture in the past, and he couldn't believe my results. He never intermixed his stains!!!
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Hello, Have some of the typical black mold (right word ?) on bathroom shower grout. Have tried Tile-X, and several others, and nothing really seems to work well in removing. Was wondering if there might be a consensus as to which of the more or less commonly available liquid cleaners is really the most powerful and best ? There seem to be zillions available, but can't try them all. Is there any agreement as to which works the best ? Thanks, Bob I use Kaboom for general cleaning. Comes in a purple squeeze bottle. You have to put it on and let it sit for a while. Wash off and repeat. It will leave a white haze behind. Cleans easily with non abrasive cleaner like Comet. It appears, from personal experience, if you dry the tile after every shower it stays clean a lot longer. That can be a real pain. I found Scrubbing Bubbles® to work really well. I'll give the walls a quick spritz after my shower and the entire unit stays clean. I would use Concrobium. Eliminate, Clean Prevent Mold with Concrobium Mold Removal Products That is a very easy to use product. Make sure you have adequate ventilation. Is the caulking moldy too or just the grout? Hi, Thanks for help; much appreciated. It's mainly the Grout, or whatever it actually is, between the tiles that is moldy. But, over the years, the previous owners apparently used some Silastic RTV type of Silicone in some areas between the Tiles to help seal it. Appears where this is the case, the Mold has likely propagated to beneath the surface by a small amount over the years. Nothing I've tried seems to clean it. Thanks again, Bob If the wrong caulk was used in the past, cleaning will not stop the problem. You need to remove the old caulk and address whatever issues that were there that prompted the caulking. They make caulk removal tools and are readily available at the box stores or you local hardware store. They have a corner tool and a flat scraper combined on the same handle. Get one that has a plastic scraper to not scratch the tile. They are not very expensive. Tell us a little more about why caulk would have been used. Is it in the corners? between field tiles? everywhere? Give us a little more to work with and maybe post a picture or two that we can reference and banter around about.
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I have a schlage door lock from my house to my garage, when the door is locked and I turn the handle to take the trash out the door opens but remains locked, I find myself locked out of the house often. Is there a way to set these locks so that when the knob is turned to open from the inside that it will unlock and stay unlocked? Thanks, Jim You can diassemble the lockset and check to make sure the rod that engages the twist knob is inserted properly. You probably have what is called a Schlage F series entry lock. One of the 'features' of a Schlage F series lockset is the interior knob is always unlocked to allow free egress at all times. I am assuming this is your issue... does the lock button on the inside turn or does it turn and push in? If the button only turns it is a F Series.... if it turns and pushes in it is an A series Schlage. If the screws are visible on the inside of the lockset rose it is an F series... as the A series locks have concealed screws. If you have an F series Schlage you are better off replacing it for a number of reasons. First being security. These locks are sold under the Grade 2 UL designation (meaning light duty commercial duty) ... but are likely one of the least durable grade 2 locks manufactured. These locks tend to yield quickly to a forced entry attack. I could gain entry into your home secured with this lock in under 5 seconds... no kidding. Secondly, I have seen numerous F series locks malfunction over the years.. never giving any indication of problems until the befuddled home owners were forced to contact me (a locksmith) to help them gain entry. The primary issue appears to be the deadlatch. (the springy part that protrudes from the edge of the door) With use the deadlatch will sometimes break and prevent the door from being opened despite the fact the lock itself is unlocked. Schlage now offers a lifetime replacement warrenty on F series locks. Not that it will do you much good when you are stuck outside of your home at night. Lastly, of all residential lockouts I have done over 10 years of working fulltime as a locksmith, approximately 70% of the homes had Schlage F series locks. It would appear you are not the only one having issues with getting locked out. Hope this helps! G. Dunn i have these locks and i'm always getting locked out. looks like i can't change any internal settings to fix this problem. time to replace the locks. My Gosh... I just bought an F-Series, and realized the design is TERRIBLE! I quickly figured out I was going to get locked outside often... I took it apart immediately and will return it. This is the worst design EVER for a lock. Is Schlage CRAZY?!?! Originally Posted by gnolivos My Gosh... I just bought an F-Series, and realized the design is TERRIBLE! I quickly figured out I was going to get locked outside often... I took it apart immediately and will return it. This is the worst design EVER for a lock. Is Schlage CRAZY?!?! They have a purpose and a use and are competitively priced. I dont know many locksmiths that carry them because of the quality issues, but many customers seem to prefer to not shop at their locksmith but rather at their big box retailer and be served by people who have no idea as to what they are talking about. In this price driven economy, you pay for what you get. If you want quality, then seek the advice of a professional. You still might be able to purchase a better quality product from them and still do it yourself, but at least you wont be steered down the wrong path. This is going to soud rude, I know, but I read your post 3 times and see no purpose in it. Was there a point you were trying to make, directly tied to the issue I described? You write like a robot! Was that a 'standard' response of sorts? Originally Posted by GlobalLocky They have a purpose and a use and are competitively priced. I dont know many locksmiths that carry them because of the quality issues, but many customers seem to prefer to not shop at their locksmith but rather at their big box retailer and be served by people who have no idea as to what they are talking about. In this price driven economy, you pay for what you get. If you want quality, then seek the advice of a professional. You still might be able to purchase a better quality product from them and still do it yourself, but at least you wont be steered down the wrong path. Well sir, You obviously are reading something that is not there. Do you do research before buying something or just believe what the *********shop assistant tells you? The locks are designed purposely to cater to the many different uses as required by more than one demographic of customer. Schlage have tailored a product to provide multiple uses, thereby reducing their production costs and consequently the retail price (of having more than one product). No sir, I don't buy at the Home Depot thank you very much. No, I did not research much. This was the ONLY lock that matched the exact style of the enture house, so my options are rather... limited? Back to my original comment... what a poor design! Have a nice day. Well, the Schlage F-51, in it's various finishes designs, has been one of the most successful highest selling consumer-grade locks in the last 10 years....not bad for such a poor design! But the big-box stores can't satisfy 100% of the folks 100% of the time. A visit to a full-line locksmith can show you that there are dozens of cylindrical lock function options---that is, mechanical arrangements of locking buttons key cylinder. They are generally only available in higher-grade hardware that unfortunately will not match EXACTLY the F-51 lever design you have. What most folks do to eliminate accidental lockouts AND improve security, is to replace the locking doorknob (lever, F-51, whatever) with a PASSAGE function, (I believe it's a F-10 in Schlage) in the same design, then install a deadbolt above. (The Passage function does not lock, period) Bingo! no lockouts, 4 times the security. Thanks for the support rstripe.... Sometimes, it would be nice for the mods to show support of their regulars similarly. cant have my cake and eat it too! Gotta watch those Unnecessary Comments, Global! (LOL) My previous post suggested a passage set with deadbolt, but if you already have a deadbolt, or don't need one, but would still like a keyed lever/knob lock that won't lock you out look at the Schlage AL50PD ......it uses a pushbutton that, when pushed in, locks the outer knob, and pops out when you turn the inner knob to go out. It's a medium-grade commercial lock, so it'll be more expensive, and you'll have to specify 2-3/8 backset, (for residential standard), but you'll end up with a lock that'll last forever in a residential setting. There's a couple of other brands with the same function, and probably cheaper than Schlage, so check with your local smithy. I also find the design of the Schlage F-Series to be unacceptable. I bought the lock as a replacement and as soon as I noticed that the interior knob is always unlocked I decided to take it back.. I knew that if I didn't take it back I would find myself locked out.. I unlocked a door for a customer the other day, who did not realise they had locked the door similarly. They had their car in the driveway and the auto garage opener would not work due to a broken garage door return spring. Picked the lock in a second, after opening the garage door from outside by disengaging the release pull. NEVER go out without your front door key. Most manufacturers have gone to the always unlocked inner lever entry function lockset to improve the life-safety aspect....ie., no need to fumble with a little turn-button, in a panic-exit situation, etc. Read post #10 for my lock-out solution, or hide a key outside. Hi. I'm having a similar issue with some sort of Schlage handle. (I'm having a hard time finding which model number it is.) Though I'm presuming it's an F series of some sort. Push button lock inside and a key for the outside. The rumor is that it will lock behind people, though I've had issues getting it to lock at all. I see that the answer is probably just replace the whole thing but I'd like to know what to look at when I take it apart to figure out why the push button is acting up. Any insight is appreciated, thanks! I can see a push button sometimes failing to catch or getting somehow otherwise disengaged and leaving the device unlocked but physics and thermodynamics seem to be against this device locking itself Don't know the age or use/abuse history of your lock, but usually a few drops of oil on the locking cam other wear parts will restore smooth action....don't spend too much time on an F series tho, they are low cost not designed to be a heavy duty lock. We recently discovered this feature when my 90 year old father got locked out for almost an hour one morning. He has parkinson's so this could have potentially been deadly. I immediately swapped out the Schlage locksets with Kwikset. This is not just a nuisance but downright dangerous – especially if you have young children or elderly living with you. The dangers of this deceptive feature far outweigh any benefits that you could get from it. Deceptive? It's not deceptive. It is what it is - I've lived with these locks for more than 30 years and never been locked out. That said, if you have a problem with this design, switching to a different line of locks which does not act this way is the right decision, kudos on doing that instead of just complaining about it. I have a house full of door set locks that all work the same way. The button can lock the door but will unlock when you close door. The key will only open door but will not lock door. Can this function be changed so that I can lock door and leave the room? Thanks for any help. Not without replacing locks I forgot to mention that these were baldwin/schlage locks. What kind of function is it that will not allow you to lock the door and leave the room? Anybody know what it is called and the purpose? Thanks Originally Posted by jerichoh Anybody know what it is called and the purpose? I think they're called storeroom sets, which is pretty self explanatory. All Baldwin locksets are guaranteed for life from the manufacturer. Just call them up, explain your issue and they will send a replacement part FREE. Storeroom function is, always locked on the outside. Entrance function differs brand to brand, usually a turnbutton inside will lock the outside handle, leaving inside unlocked for emergency escape. Classroom function is key locks and unlocks outside handle - inside is always unlocked Classroom secure function is inside or outside key locks and unlocks outside handle only - inside is always unlocked And I think institutional function is something like always locked on inside and outside, key retracts the latch... How so? These locks do not allow you to lock a room up and walk away as you would with a storeroom. They only allow you to lock yourself in the room. institutional function Think cell block A to cell block B. No key - you can't go where you don't belong. Thank you all for your input. Although, I still don't think any of the functions exactly match these locksets. The keys will NOT lock the door, only open it. The inside button will lock door if it is closed but if you lock the door first, then close door the lock will pop open. So, you can lock yourself in the room but you CANNOT lock door and go away. What kind of function would that be? Thanks BTW The normal default position on these locks is OPEN. So, I do not think they could be considered institutional. You can ONLY lock yourself in the room. Well, sounds like the same function as a bathroom lockset....only with a key instead of the little hole that you insert a tool or small screwdriver in. I'm pretty sure that function is called a privacy lock. Having to use a key, as opposed to just a pin of some sort means it is probably some kind of institutional lock. This would prevent just anyone with a nail or such from opening the door while someone was taking a dump. If someone WAS in trouble then an employee could use the key to open the door. I bought a two sets of Yale locks where each set had two locking knobs and two deadbolts all keyed the same. Nice convenience that both packages were keyed the same. I liked the keys with the larger handle and when the knob was locked, it wouldn't turn. In total I spend $60 for 4 hand locks and 4 deadbolts, not the highest quality, but I lied them. When I replaced all doors in the house, I went with the Schlage Nickle and the first day I locked myself in the garage twice. lol Tough getting use to the fact where the knob still turns when locked. Funny because when I was picking up the extra Schlage set, I was debating just getting a deadbolt and a regular knob without a lock. I could return just that one, but I already had them re-key it. Such a simple thing, but after being accustomed to something for 10 years to have it just change on you really screws you up! That is exactly what I did with the door between my garage and the house, replace the old key-in-knob lockset with a straight lever passage set. It already had a deadbolt so no need for a locking set in addition. I tried to convince my sister to do the same in her new (to her) house but as usual she didn't listen. () She had her handyman install a key-in-knob lockset (he also installed it upside down) and one day I was over visiting and she was running back and forth from the garage to the kitchen when she gave the door a yank coming into the garage. I tried to stop it but was too late and the door locked. She doesn't trust me (probably smart on her part) so I don't have a key and so we had to call her son who was about thirty miles away to come up through the afternoon commute. What made it even more interesting is that she had left her telephone in the house and I didn't have her son's number so she had to guess at the number. He didn't answer his phone, which is typical, so we had to wait until he checked his voice mail to even know if he was coming. Since we knew it would take him at least an hour we went to a sandwich shop for a bite to eat. Entrance function differs brand to brand, usually a turnbutton inside will lock the outside handle, leaving inside unlocked for emergency escape. Welcome to the forums but please tell me how that fascinating piece of common knowledge applies to any of the situations being discussed? Nobody is installing single-cylinder locksets with the key inside the home and the turn knob on the outside of the home. Here's my fix I did using Tom H's method modified to work better for me. I hope he doesn't mind, but I took his idea and improved it for myself. The problem I had with your fix is the knob would sometime turn enough to open, probably because I didn't do it perfect and not necessarily a problem with your method. So here's what I did: I drilled the two 7/64 holes as you instructed. I then took 6-32 machine screws and screwed them in the holes I just drilled so it would be easier to screw them back in after I shortened them. I then screwed the proper size nut for a 6-32 screw all the way down to the bottom until it hit the screw head. Next I took my wire stripper/bolt cutter and screwed it all the way down until it bottom out to the nut and cut it. This left about 3/16 of threads, more or less. I then unscrewed the nut until there was just a few threads left before it falling off. Next, I screwed it back in the previously drilled and tapped holes in the lock about 2-3 turns which caused it to bottom out on the nut and lock the bolt in place from loosening. I did this on both sides. The flat side of the nut locked the center square post in place and it worked perfectly! Thanks to Tom H for the idea and I hope this helps other people out as well. Below is a pic of what I ended up with. The original link: Schlage Entry Door Knobs - Building Construction - Page 2 - DIY Chatroom - DIY Home Improvement Forum who is Tom H? and how does this fix adjust the product? Please explain. Seems like an awful lot of expense and effort to go to, when purchasing the correct product from a reputeable locksmith would solve the issue once and for all without so much messing arounbd., Originally Posted by GlobalLocky who is Tom H? and how does this fix adjust the product? Please explain. Seems like an awful lot of expense and effort to go to, when purchasing the correct product from a reputeable locksmith would solve the issue once and for all without so much messing arounbd., All your questions are answered in his post. Seems like a good modification if, like me, you already have set(s) of this type. Correct, Tom H is in the link at the end. While this isn't a problem for the front and back doors of my house because I would have my keys when going out those doors. However, my door from my work bench area leading into the garage is a fire rated spring loaded door that slams shut. When I am working in my garage to my work bench I don't usually have my keys as I am running back and forth to both places. I still may very well replace this locking knob with a passive knob and the dead bolt with a digital Schlage lock, but that ends up being a $150 option and my fix was with nuts and bolts I already had. With the Yale locks when I turned the knob and it wouldn't turn my thumb automatically pressed to turn the lock nub. With the Schlage, my muscle memory didn't know to turn the nub because the knob would turn in either case. Even if I went to a locksmith (Sherman's which I go to for all my specialty stuff has been around all my life, but no longer close by) I may have very well bought the same version type without knowing. In any case, I only needed to do this to one lock and as mentioned, if you own a house with a bunch of these locks, you aren't going to replace them all. This fix is a couple cents per lock and a few minute of your time. Since I use 6-32 nuts and bolts all the time, I had them. 6-32 is also the size on electrical outlet screws to box as well as computer hard disks, etc. Anyway, I was sharing a common problem many people had (That I saw anyways) and it is a simple fix instead of paying a ton of cash to replace all your knob locks. I was thinking my parents house is over 40 years old with the original locks and they act the same way as the new ones I have. It would not be worth it to replace the so many locks in his house if he wanted to do this. Me, I have 3 deadbolts and 4 locking knobs in the house and replacing the 4 locking knobset's would be costly and they may not match with what I have now. I suppose you could hire a locksmith to repkace all your Schlage locks but this is a DIY forum so I feel your mod is more appropriate.
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I've got an 11 year-old furnace that has started to shut itself off at about the same time each day. When the unit shuts off, raising or lowering the temperature on the thermostat becomes inactive. The only way to get it back on is to reset either from the thermostat or from the heater reset button. The furnace runs perfectly except for that once a day when it shuts itself down. After checking everything out, and installing a new thermostat, my heating service people can't seem to come up with an answer, saying they have never heard of such a problem as a daily timed shut down on the unit. My question: is there an internal timer on these units and if so, where should I look to reset or fix the problem? There is no internal timer. Your furnace probably has an intermittent problem ---- it's right on the edge of not working, and sometimes it falls over that edge. Such problems usually get worse over time until they are diagnosed and repaired. Unfortunately, if your repair service replaced the thermostat they are probably marginally competent and/or lazy. A lot of intermittent problems can be diagnosed the first time out, given sufficient skill in testing a patience in repeating tests until the condition manifests itself. Does your furnace have a hot surface ignitor that glows whit hot to light the gas? And what is the model number of the furnace, which can be obtained off the rating plate in the burner compartment of the furnace? Do you have a multimeter to measure AC voltage and understand use it? Thanks Seattle, If I'm picking up the model number correctly, this is what i see on the unit: VR8205H 8016 The ignitor is fine (new), burners are fine (two years old), etc., etc. The repairman was here for over an hour, running cycles and found nothing because he was not here at around 4 pm when the shut off usually takes place. Since it's almost accurately on time, it really isn't an intermittent problem but one that happens with regularity. In fact, it should shut down any minute now and I am keeping close tabs on it. You bring up voltage. I'm wondering if maybe we experience a voltage drop here at that time of day. In any case, I haven't a meter to measure voltage. What you want to do is to remove the cover of the furnace so you can observe what is happening when it fails to light. When the thermostat calls for heat, the inducer motor should start up and continue to run. When it comes up to speed the pressure switch should close and then the HSI should light up. After that the gas should turn on and the burners should light. How far into that ignition sequence does your furnace get? Seattle, I'm not being clear. The furnace works for 23 hours without incident and then nothing happens between the last time it fires and when the temp in the house has dropped below the bottom thermostat setting. It stops responding to the thermostat completely. No attempt is made for it to turn on and light. Dead. I reset and it works fine until the next day and the same process occurs. Earlier this morning, I opened the control box, looked at the schematic and pulled a few plugs from the wiring that seemed near the area that worked on message from thermostat to motor. I waited a few seconds and then plugged them all back in. I think there were three of them. The furnace did not do its usual shut down today, but I am unsure if that means anything. Well, you need a multimeter if you want to try to identify the problem yourself. Lots of odd associations can be made with a problem, but they can be just additional proof that correlation is not causation You need to catch it when it's failed to turn on and then determine why, and you need a multimeter to do that. If the inducer does not even come on, which I guess does not, based on your 'nothing happens - that means you have to check: ..to see if you have 24 volts at transformer, so you know you have furnace line voltage and 24 volts available. And to see if you have 24 volts between low voltage terminal block connection W to C. And to see if the blower door switch is working and blower door is tightly up against the switch. And then you need to know if you have a 3-wire pressure switch that may have gotten stuck in the previous run cycle's closed position (which closes the NO to C contacts on the pressure switch), which then makes the start of the new cycle open, because the plunger in the diaphram is stuck the wrong direction. On these types of pressure switches, nothing will happen unless out of the 3 terminals on the switch that say NO -NC and C, that you have to have continuity from NC to C, for the furnace to start up. If these issues are not it, then there also is a relay that converts 24 volt signal of the thermostat to 120 volts to get the inducer to run. Sometimes that relay goes to pot. If that relay is not working, then nothing works. Unfortunately with newer furnaces, that relay is usually on the control board and not replaceable without replacing the board. On older furnaces, some had the relay as a separate item not on any board. And to unplug and replug all electrical connections (both spade and jacks containing pin connectors). These are some places to start looking.
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I'd like to replace my old-style primary control with a new electronic version - it's a regular old Beckett burner, with the control mounted on top of a junction box and a steel lid (White-Rodgers). There are a total of 7 terminals, it operates my A/C. We will be installing a heat pump soon, and the oil will become the emergency heat. Does anyone have a suggestion for a specific electronic control which might work well for me? One reason is the transformer of this old style hums constantly and is warm, so I assume it uses more electricity than necessary. I haven't checked the current. I also thought it might be possible to have the primary control (or thermostat) turn on the fan as soon as the furnace ignites somehow, to start getting some heat out of it even before the fan limit switch would turn it on. Neither Beckett nor Honeywell make an electronic primary with the large transformer. Carlin might but I'm not familiar with thier controls. The transformer on an oil burner is a step up because a higher voltage needs to be generated get a spark hot enough to ignite oil that doesn't have anything to do with your control system and the reason for the fan/limit control that turns your fan on after the burner ignites is so you don't blow cold air in the house you can adjust that to turn on at a lower temperature there should be an adjustment pointer under a silver cover if it is a honeywell or on the outside of a black rectangular box if it is a camstat There are TWO transformers on an oil burner. One is a step up from 120v to 10,000+ volts. This is for ignition. The other is a step down from 120v to 24v. This is the control transformer. The primary control contains the step down transformer. Yes, I was referring to the 24V transformer / relay that the thermostat hooks up to. This switches the furnace motor and blower motor voltage on right? I was interested in a newer type (not necessarily electronic) that might be more reliable and use less power when on standby. If the electronic ones don't have a transformer, where does the thermostat etc. get the low control voltage? Even if identical, I would like to have another for spare. It has gone out once before and they put a rebuilt one on. Mine says it is constant ignition, and I've seen there are intermittent ignition. I can get some exact model #'s off it tonight. If there's any other options I have besides a direct replacement primary control, I'd be interested in exploring them. Originally Posted by mike n The transformer on an oil burner is a step up because a higher voltage needs to be generated get a spark hot enough to ignite oil that doesn't have anything to do with your control system and the reason for the fan/limit control that turns your fan on after the burner ignites is so you don't blow cold air in the house you can adjust that to turn on at a lower temperature there should be an adjustment pointer under a silver cover if it is a honeywell or on the outside of a black rectangular box if it is a camstat I'm familiar with the fan limit switches because of having problems with the blower cycling on after the furnace shuts off (residual heat). I have it working right now, but there can be up to a minute of furnace run time before the fan turns on (130 On, 80 Off). One thing I might try is putting a diode between the thermostat's fan and heat terminals (at the furnace). This should turn the fan on immediately with the furnace, but the furnace wouldn't turn on if the thermostat was set to Fan. The fan would stay on when the furnace shuts off, because of the fan limit switch. Anyone foresee any problems with doing this, other than cold air blowing at first? That cold air wouldn't bother me, infact I often turn the fan on just to circulate air in the house. The electronic primarys do have a transformer but not one heavy enough to operate a second relay. A replacement for yours would be a Honeywell R8184M-1051. This is the only primary control with the heavy (40 va) transformer Honeywell still makes. It has intermittent (formerly called constant) ignition. The White-Roddgers # is 668-451. Not sure about your diode idea. Originally Posted by Grady The electronic primarys do have a transformer but not one heavy enough to operate a second relay. A replacement for yours would be a Honeywell R8184M-1051. This is the only primary control with the heavy (40 va) transformer Honeywell still makes. It has intermittent (formerly called constant) ignition. The White-Roddgers # is 668-451. Not sure about your diode idea. It says White-Rodgers 668-454 on it. Same thing as Honeywell R8184M-1051? I was just looking at the terminals. Looks like C turns the fan on (I'm seeing 27V A/C there only when the thermostat Fan mode is On). W turns the burner on (27V A/C from the thermostat). Downloading the Honeywell install instructions etc. now. Thanks Grady! The White-Rodgers you have the Honeywell R8184M-1051 are interchangeable. Closure of the circuit R-W brings on the burner. Closure of the circuit R-G brings on the fan. R-Y energizes the contactor in the A/C condensing unit. C is common needed only for a secondary relay such as the fan or condensing unit. Originally Posted by Grady The White-Rodgers you have the Honeywell R8184M-1051 are interchangeable. Closure of the circuit R-W brings on the burner. Closure of the circuit R-G brings on the fan. R-Y energizes the contactor in the A/C condensing unit. C is common needed only for a secondary relay such as the fan or condensing unit. Ok, things are making sense now, the voltages I was reading were really confusing me until you said it is Closure with R. This is great communicating with someone who knows their stuff I think my diode connection of W to G would work, I'm going to read about the R8181M a little to be sure I don't burn something out There would be the possibility of burning the thermostat out I think, if the additional current (G+W) from the thermostat is too much for the thermostat W. It may take a relay. If you have a digital thermostat, most can be selected for electric heat. In this configuration, anytime there is a call for heat (R/W closure) there is also a closure between R G (fan comes on). One thing to be aware of is with the closure between R G, the fan is going to come on at the cooling fan speed. Honeywell makes a Fan/Limit (L4064W-++++) which has a 24 volt pre-heater in it. This particular fan/limit is commonly used in downflow or horizontal applications where natural warming can be a problem. When there is a call for heat this heater is energized causing the helix to warm bring on the fan sooner than it would by sensing the air temperature alone. Since you are going to be installing a heat pump using the oil fired furnace for back-up, I personally wouldn't spend the time or money trying to bring on the fan sooner. Originally Posted by Grady If you have a digital thermostat, most can be selected for electric heat. In this configuration, anytime there is a call for heat (R/W closure) there is also a closure between R G (fan comes on). One thing to be aware of is with the closure between R G, the fan is going to come on at the cooling fan speed. Honeywell makes a Fan/Limit (L4064W-++++) which has a 24 volt pre-heater in it. This particular fan/limit is commonly used in downflow or horizontal applications where natural warming can be a problem. When there is a call for heat this heater is energized causing the helix to warm bring on the fan sooner than it would by sensing the air temperature alone. Since you are going to be installing a heat pump using the oil fired furnace for back-up, I personally wouldn't spend the time or money trying to bring on the fan sooner. I hadn't noticed the difference in fan speed using Thermostat ON versus Heat, but I do now. Glad you pointed that out. It was just something I thought would be nice to do if I figured out an easy way without buying a different limit. Does that mean the heat pump would use cooling-speed fan even for heat then, since the fan Limit Switch wouldn't be controlling the fan? The heat pump's fossil fuel kit could probably be configured to bring on the fan on a lower speed for heating than cooling. I don't work on many heat pumps so I'm not sure if they normally use different fan speeds for heating cooling or not. You could possibly end up using 3 different fan speeds depending upon in which mode the system was running. An example would be: Low for heat pump heating, medium for oil heating, high for cooling. An update and another question; I got the Honeywell R8184M and installed it. It is much quieter than the old White-Rodgers which was on it and also isn't warm to the touch like the WR was constantly. I was afraid of it burning out, staying hot like that. If I had a relay calling for High fan speed, while the fan limit switch was calling for Medium speed, would that harm the motor? I can switch the fan on high from the thermostat while the furnace is on and it over-rides the medium speed but I didn't know if that is bad for the motor? Thanks! I have it working right now, but there can be up to a minute of furnace run time before the fan turns on (130 On, 80 Off). Why dont you just turn the on down to 120o and 80o off???? most of the tiem most people turn the fan off about 90o. The fan relay will close and turn the blower on when the tstat calls for heat with the heatpump. Does anyone have a suggestion for a specific electronic control which might work well for me? One reason is the transformer of this old style hums constantly and is warm, so I assume it uses more electricity than necessary. I haven't checked the current. Like said 24V transformer is on all the time for power to the tstat. Yes it will be warm. Now the Noise it makes . Play with the screws that hold it to the box. lots of time tighten them or losen then . will stop the noise. I don't think the relay will allow the fan to be fed from two sources at once but I'd have to see a wiring diagram to be sure. I think once the fan on mode is selected, it breaks the feed from the fan side of the fan/limit control. If the fan switch we turned from ON to AUTO the furnace were hot enough, the fan would then be powered thru the fan side of the fan/limit to whatever speed it was wired. Originally Posted by Grady I don't think the relay will allow the fan to be fed from two sources at once but I'd have to see a wiring diagram to be sure. I think once the fan on mode is selected, it breaks the feed from the fan side of the fan/limit control. Yep, that's exactly right. I looked at the Fan Relay (it was inside a steel box) and the Limit Control (Low speed) goes through the Normally Closed terminals whereas the Fan On (Med speed) goes through the Normally Open terminals. Ed, I have my Limits at 70 and 130, any lower than that at the high side and the fan cycles on a few times after the furnace shuts off. If you are happy or at least satisfied with the way the fan operates, leave the settings where they are. On most oil fired furnaces we set the 'fan on' at 130-140є the 'fan off' at 100-110є. Any lower we get complaints about cold blow. Originally Posted by mike n The transformer on an oil burner is a step up because a higher voltage needs to be generated get a spark hot enough to ignite oil that doesn't have anything to do with your control system and the reason for the fan/limit control that turns your fan on after the burner ignites is so you don't blow cold air in the house you can adjust that to turn on at a lower temperature there should be an adjustment pointer under a silver cover if it is a honeywell or on the outside of a black rectangular box if it is a camstat hi i have a question i have a old herculese cast iron furnance does the transformer stay on all the time and arc a spark or should it shut down the problem i have is there is only 3 wires coming from the stack control and two are twisted together are hot and one is ground some one took them apart and i didnt see how or if this is right the furnance is runing but i dont want to burn it up its a superigition transtormer 10'000 volts thanks in advance It is common to leave the ignition transformer on the entire time the burner is running. Your stack relay seems to be made for interrupted ignition but I don't encourage it's use. With a cad cell relay shorter safety time interrupted is ok but using a stack relay I'd stick with the intermittent.
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Previous owners, in their INFINITE (not) wisdom, decided to paint (not stain) the entire front porch and sidewalk. Well, it looks like crap and is wearing out. On top of that, some white paint was spilled on top of the pinkish paint, so not only does the original color look bad, but there are splotches of white paint on top of it. Needless to say, I want it gone. I'd love to have it covered with flagstone or something, but I can't afford it right now. In the meantime, I'd LOVE to just take it back to the original concrete surface. I have attempted to use Muriatic Acid to strip it, but it has ZERO effect with the painted surface (both diluted and full strength). My next thought was to some how sand blast it. Is that an option or will that eat up the concrete too much? Any alternative suggestions? This is quite a large area, btw....300 sq ft on the porch, then a sidewalk that's about 3' x 75'. Thanks in advance for any suggestions! Have you tried a pressure washer yet? Muriatic will not remove paint, you have to go to the other end of the PH scale and use a highly alkaline solution. I stripped a section of red brick with a home made lye solution and it's very effective but I don't think you will want to do this on an entire sidewalk and driveway though. The pressure washer is worth a shot. A good pressure washer will do it. Just watch for the scoring/lines it can make if let in one spot too long -Alfred G Souza I'm a little skeptical of the power washer being able to remove the paint (since I've power-washed the surface to clean it - granted it wasn't a REAL strong power washer), but I suppose I could give that a shot, that would be the easiest, I'll just need to find one. What's the minimum PSI to look for when renting one? Thanks! I'd apply a coat of paint stripper to the concrete, let it work and then use the pressure washer to remove the majority of paint...... your small PWer is probably stout enough for this method. A high pressure washer will make the work quicker but it's also possible to cause damage when using the higher pressure. I have a small PWer that I used to use commercially - it only goes to 1500 psi and has worked fine for anything I've ever had to clean with it. It might take a couple of applications of the stripper to get the concrete presentable. There is also a chance that removing all the paint might be a futile job - in that case, I'd recommend applying a concrete stain. Thanks all...my neighbor has a power washer I'm going to try. I'll take some pics (before and after) and report some results as I attempt them Well, that didn't go so well. I did not use paint thinner/stripper, but I did try a 3,000 PSI power washer. Basically, the only areas where it had ANY effect was on the perimeter of areas that were already showing signs of thinning/wear. It does a good job of cleaning the porch, but didn't strip the paint at all... It sounds like they used an oil base enamel - it's a lot tougher than latex. Paint stripper should work. Paint thinners don't work well for stripping cured paint.
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