I'm replacing a basic round Honeywell HEATING ONLY t'stat (without any switches) for a hot water system with a programmable digital to save energy. The White Rogers zone valves have three wires, white red and green. Is the wiring straight forward at the new thermostat end? Thanks Nick
Nick, there are probably just two wires at the thermostat end... likely a white and a red ... as far as the t'stat goes, shouldn't make any difference what zone valves are used ... Have you removed the old t'stat yet for to take a look ? I'm pretty sure that's what you'll find.
It's quite possible that your White-Rodgers zone valves require three-wire (SPDT) thermostats for operation. W-R made several such zone valves and they require the thermostat to close red to white to open the valve on a coll for heat and then to open the red/white connection and close red to the other color (in this case green) to close the valve. If this is the valve you have then it will require a SPDT relay (with 24 volt AC coil) to be connected between the two-wire thermostat and the three wire valve. Post back if you need more information.
Furd, It is a 3wire White Rodgers zone valve #1311-102. There are three wires, red, white and green. The old t'stat had red-to-red, white-to-white and the green wire attached to the Y terminal on a Honeywell series 20 t'stat. It had no control switches. Would you recommend a specific replacement or can I just pick one up at Home Depot that is a (SPDT) . The goal here is to replace the old analog with a digital so that I can program it for energy savings. Thanks. Nick (phone # removed for personal security reasons, PM Nick if you want his number)
Sorry, but I cannot recommend any particular thermostat. I doubt that you will find a suitable SPDT thermostat at any retail store so the easiest way to make a SPST thermostat work with these zone valves is to use an intervening relay. You would need a relay with a 24 volt ac coil and SPDT (or DPDT) contacts to actuate the valve. One relay that would work is a Potter Brumfield model KRPA 11AG-24. You would also need the socket for this relay which is part number BDS08SS. These are common and readily available from several mail-order sources or from industrial electrical/electronic distributors in major cities. I give these examples of PB only because I am quite familiar with the products. There are several competing products and any one of them would work just fine as long as you have the 24 volt AC coil and a minimum of SPDT switching. The thermostat ends up switching the relay coil and the relay contacts will operate the zone valve. NJ Trooper can probably make a wiring diagram better than I. Here is the instruction sheet for the W-R zone valve: http://www.partsguy.com/pdf/1311troublshoot.pdf
While you can wire up a relay as furd suggested, I looked at the Honeywell VisionPro ($$$) and FocusPro ($) thermostats and found that they are useable with three wire power open/close zone valves. It's probably worth the extra bucks to pick up a t'stat that can do what you want without the extra work (and cost) of adding a relay... you'll probably break even in the long run. On both the VisionPro series 8000 and the FocusPro series 6000 t'stats, you would set the SYSTEM TYPE (FUNCTION 1) to #2 and wire as shown. They don't show the W-R valves though, only their own series 20 valves (which are also power open/close), so you would have to be careful which wires connected to which...
Tags: white, rodgers, zone, valve, wiring, zone valves, volt coil, zone valve, open close, power open
Greetings, My oven would not heat yesterday. After reading around online it seems that the most probable cause is the igniters. However, neither the bake burner nor the broiler work. It seems unlikely to me that both igniters would go out at the same time. They still do look hot orange. Is there a reason why they would both poop out? Or could there be a different cause? The stove top still has gas. Is there a separate gas valve that feeds both the baking and broiler in the oven that could fail? Any help would be appreciated, Thanks. Nate
Hello Nate and Welcome to the Do It Yourself Web Site and the Gas Appliances topic. Agree. Not likely both HSI's (Hot Surface Igniter's) would fail at the same time. A simple test would be to turn oven burner on and wait until HSI glows what you assume to be it's brightest. Then tap burner tube with back end (handle) of a screw driver. If burner lights up, HSI is weak even though it glows bright orange. Should be a bright yellow/orange and not just orange in color. Same applies to broiler burner. Weak HSi's in both oven and broiler. Possible but not likely unless both used about equally or both igniter's more then two-three years old and both used plenty of times. Another possible cause is the control panel. If the control panel has knobs likely the igniter's. If control panel is a touch button panel then touch pad or pads may be defective or the main control board, etc. Can't be sure since you did not mention anything in this regard. Photos would say a thousand words and a model number may be helpful also. Isolation gas shut off valves may be on gas flow aluminum tubes. Not likely one or both have been turned off unless done accidentally during a cleaning in the area where one or both may be. You'll have to due a visual check and see. If no cleaning done they would still be on. Retail parts dealers and appliances parts stores can also help determine what the possible problem may be based upon that specific brand and model. Bring the make, model and serial numbers. Dealers and appliances parts stores are listed in the phone book. Read The Sticky Advice And Information Note In This Topic: Range-Stove-Oven-Broiler Basic Help Information Manufacturers Web Sites. http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=159808 Use the reply button to add additional information or questions. Using the reply button keeps or moves the topic back up to the top of the list automatically and keeps all communications on this subject in this thread.
Dear Sharp Advice, Thank you for your reply. Here is the model # and pictures: 30-3857-00 / 04168-87258858 I know you cant really tell from the pic but to me I would call the igniter a yellowy orange. I tried tapping (what I believe to be) the burner tube to no avail. The oven is controlled by knobs. And my first thought was it some how got stuck on Time bake but the igniters do turn on so this can't be it. No cleaning or moving was done behind the stove. It had been working 2 days prior.
Hello: Nate Based only on what the photo shows, there is only one burner used for both baking and broiling. Not two separate compartments with two separator burners and igniter's. I could be wrong. Can't see entire front of stove. Likely an oven door and beneath that a broiler drawer. Photo appears to be taken from outside facing upward at broiler burner???? Or down toward oven burner??? What I am looking for is the flame spreader plate. Which would be attached to the top of burner on the center threaded stud facing upward. I don't see it. You likely removed it already before taking photos or is it missing??? What a service tech usually does is replace both gas control valve and igniter as a matched set if and since there is power to igniter. You might have to do that also. Kindly advise how photos where taken and what they show. Based upon memory only the stove is a basic model with a single burner oven/broiler combo.
I'm sorry my photos are not complete. The oven has both a bottom oven burner (What is shown in photo 2 and 3) and a top broiler (not shown). The pictures are after the the plate had been removed by me to see the igniter. The tube down the center (burner tube?) is what I tapped to see if it would light. I can add more photos of the rest of the oven tonight. Thanks.
Here are some more oven photos. Sorry they are dark. This shows top broiler and bottom burner. Again the plate has been removed. This shows top broiler. Here is below the oven. This seems to be where the gas is split between the broiler and the bake burner. My other thought was are the igniters tied together in away that if one goes the other will to? Kind of like car blinkers. Thanks,
In my opinion and what we use to due in instances like these, is allows be sure there is gas going into the control valve. (Bottom Photo) How we did that was to follow the gas supply tube from the dual gas control valve up to the gas manifold under stove top. Lift the top burner lid and look for that aluminum gas supply tube going to oven/broiler gas valve. At the beginning of that tube will be or should be a tiny shut off lever. Be sure it faces the same way as the tube and not across it. Might have been some how turned off accidentally. If so, that would account for the no gas to both oven and broiler burners. If valve is on, you can check for gas flow at control valve by slightly loosening the inlet tube nut. However, this trick is not recommended for do it yourself repair persons. If you attempt this be very careful. That nut needs a backup wrench to hold control in place so only the nut turns slightly and you can hear gas escaping. Re-tighten and soap nut to insure no gas leaks! A MUST DO safety check. If gas is present with shut off valve in the on position and neither burner works, very likely the gas control valve is defective since both Hot Surface Igniter's (HSI's) are glowing. BTW: Replacing that control valve is some what difficult due to it's location and position. Be aware of that gas supply tube nut likely to be difficult to initially hand thread in too.
Tags: oven, heat, igniters, control valve, oven broiler, burner tube, control panel, oven burner, supply tube, appliances parts
I have a DSC 1555 system. The main battery is going or is gone and I am getting a low battery error on the keypad. The battery is a DSC BD 4-12. This is a 12 volt 4 amp sealed lead acid battery. How close do the amps have to be? Online there is only 1 source for the DSC BD battery that I can see on Google. In addition, most batteries I am finding online are basically 12 volt 4.5 amps. 12 volts 4 amps seems like a rare battery to find online. I tried brick and mortar and went to Radio Shack and they sell a 12 volt 5 amp sealed lead acid battery for 29.99. Will this work? Forgive my electricity ignorance but isn't the amp hours just a reflection of the storage capacity. Please advise. Thanks
The battery standards have changed. 4.5 to 5 ah is now the standard. The panel will charge up to about a 10 or 12 AH battery. Anything in between will work. Bigger battery = longer backup power.
yes, they battery is still work, larger capacity is no bad effect on your alarm system eric
Four year old thread.....
Tags: lead, acid, battery, alarm, system, acid battery, lead acid battery, sealed lead, sealed lead acid, sealed lead acid battery, volt sealed, volt sealed lead
Does anyone have any plans for a sturdy hamemade ladder stand that they would be willing to share? A friend of mine gave me permission to place a stand on his property. I'm a big guy and would prefer to build my own ladder stand. Could someone point me in the right direction. thanks Tom
Hey Tom, how's it going? Are you talking about making a metal ladder stand? If so, I would just head to a hunting shop, take a look at what they got. You've got a good friend there. I'm sure you'll be tossing a couple of t-bones his way. Good luck in whichever stand you make, and in the upcoming season. Jay
I would like to get plans for a good permenent wooden stand, Portable ladder stands seem to come up missing a lot in my area :mask: Cables, chains, locks, it doesn't matter, put them out on a Sunday, come Monday morning, It may not be there. A permenent stand would be harder to cart off
thanks anyway!
While being able to say I made it myself when speaking about the stand you bagged a deer from is self gratifying, it could also be self endangering. Wood deteriorates rather quickly when left in the outdoor elements(rain,wind,ice,snow). If not checked rather often to insure stability and good condition, the next time you used it could be your last. Any time you place yourself any distance off the ground you want to insure safety. More hunters are injured by falling from their deer stands than other hunting accidents. This is the main reason most all professionally or commercially built units are made from metal or fiberglass. If you google for homemade deer stand plans or homemade hunting stand plans you will come with a bunch. Add the word free and you will come up with a little less but still enough to choose from. You can also look at pictures of stands and make something that will suit your needs. Just remember that when you build something to hold you in a tree, you are backing your life/health with the guarantee of your workmanship. Is it worth the risk??????
Hey Big Tom, I have seen these plans before, but never have tried any of them, hope it helps http://www.angelfire.com/sc/huntingstands/index.html
Sorry I don't have a picture but I'll try to explain how I build my ladder stands. I only use pressure treated lumber and plywood and ring shank 16penny nails or 3inch sheetrock screws (galvanized is best) for the body of the stand and I attatch to the tree with 40 penny spikes. Staring with the seat I use a 2ft by 2ft piece of 3/4inch pt plywood that I paint with some kind of waterseal product until it will no longer suck up anymore. Cut a 6 inch v notch in one side (this will go up against the tree) mount the seat on 2 parallel 4ft long 2X4's leaving 4 inches of the 2x4 exposed on the front (v on the back) with the narrow side of the 2x4's against the plywood. Now get 2 16ft long 2x4's and place them inside the 2x4's holding the seat (agian narrow side up) to get the spacing for the ladder rungs (should be around 18 inches) now square up the 2 16ft 2x4's and starting from the top measure down 18 inches (this is the most comfortable distance I've found) for the top rung. Then just place a step every 18 inches til you get to the bottom use 2 nails or screws in each side of each step (if the pt is old and dry it helps to predrill holes to keep down splitting). Now you have a top piece and a ladder lay the top piece on its side and place the ladder inside the 2 2x4 with the notch in the back and the ladder at about 10 degrees off vertical (makes for easier climbing if not straight up) now use nails or screws to attach the ladder to the seat assembly (I put 3 or 4 from each side and cinch them down by bending the points over) now you have a basic ladder stand. The best way I've found to put them on the tree is to use and extension ladder. Get a friend to help you lean the stand up against the tree and move the legs out until the seat is level (the 2 ft legs behind the seat should extend past the tree that you are mounting it on) now climb the ladder and attach a piece of 2x4 to the top of the seat rails with nails or screws so that the board is tight to the tree. then drive a 40 penny spike thru the short board into the tree, this will hold it to the tree . Sorry I forgot you need to make 2 braces. You'll need 2 4ft long 2x4's these are to be nailed just forward of the back of the plywood and down to the ladder on either side to give the stand support (make a triangle several steps down with these and attach inside the seat 2x4's and outside the ladder 2x4's again use several nails or screws from each side. Now with the stand attached to the tree if you would like you can make a shooting/safety rail by attaching 2 4ft long 2x4's at the junction of the ladder and the seat down to the braces . I've found that by angling them slightly forward with 21 inches above the seat level and the bottom (or excess attached to the braces and then putting another 4ft long 2x4 on the top then take 2 more 4ft 2x4's and attach them back from the front rail to the tree (it helps to hold the side rails against the tree and cut the front rail at an angle to make the joint tighter) then use nails or screws to attach to front rail and 40 penny spikes to the tree. Now all you need is a back rest- 12inch by 18 inch piech of plywood placed at a comfortable angle and attached to the seat and the tree and you have a tree stand. I hang camo cloth from the shooting rail all the way around for conceilment and use a boat cushion for comfort and a pull up rope for my gun and I'm ready to go. Hope this helps. rugerman
the best stand i ever built was out of some damaged construction scaffold. safe to use but not liability proof. painted green, 3 ea 5' 6 sections with the top wrapped in a cammo crop cloth. safe, comfortable for two, and damn hard to steal.
rugerman spelled out a pretty good stand, his description is very similar to those that I used to make. I gave these up for a couple resons, lumber cost vs. the cost of a 'store bought' metal stand and lack of portability. Those wooden stands get heavy and a real pain to relocate!! If you opt for wood though, do yourself a few favors, 1) put the seat/platform angle a little more than 90 deg to put a slope on the ladder (much nicer to climb) and 2) completely glue everything, over time water and wind swaying your tree will loosen all the nailed together boards. -- Not fun having a step come off either under foot or in your hand.
Big Tom, I know what you mean, I'm 6ft 5 inches and 350lbs. I bought myself a buddy stand. They are made for two average size people, more like a dad and son thing. Anyhow mine is rated for 500 lbs but the best thing besides the load rating is the room. I can set sideways and lean against one side, stand up, etc. because it has a railing all the way around it. I actually bought another one this past fall that the front railing folds back for bow hunting. Plus the railing makes a fine gun rest. Here in Central Illinois I can buy them for $100-$120, you'll have at least half that or more in materials trying to build it yourself. The only problem I had is where some of the tubing was butt welded on one end and open on the other, I had some rain water get inside the tube and freeze. It cracked some of the tube. I think I have that solved by spraying the foam in a can (Great Stuff) into the tubing voids. So this spring I'm heading down with my new one, replacing the old one and fix the tubing on it. Then take it back down early this fall and set it in a different location. Mine are chained and padlocked, plus they are on private ground. I've had no problems for the 5 years I had it up. Good Luck
I Need Some Help. My Brother And I Want To Build Some Permanent Deer Stands On Some Property But Don't Know Where To Start As Far As Building The Deer Stands. If Somebody Can Help Me Out That Would Be Great.
Type 'building deer tree stands' in your Google search box for lots of links for ideas and plans. It is important that you heed safety precautions when it comes to construction. I know someone whose faulty construction resulted in his falling. He laid on the ground all day with a broken back. Finally, after dark, family members got concerned and went looking for him. Now, he is disabled.
I've built stands bought stands. Older wiser, I'd go with a welded steel or aluminum commercially made stand. There are some very good well made stands on the market. Saftey should be first foremost on your list of features.
Would like some plans on build a Tripod stand at least 10' or taller i am tired of all these plans on the internet that you have to pay for.so can anyone help me with some free tripod plans please
There is a lot of good info here already. I have looked myself and I personally have not found any free plans online. You do not say if you want metal or wooden ones but if metal you could buy one for less than the cost of buying your own steel. Also, if you already have structural square tubing or pipe the weight of this to carry into the woods would be many times heavier than a pre-made one The construction of stands is fairly simple and if you have the needed welding experience to build it safely you should be able to look at pictures and draw up your own plans. If you do get or make a stand make sure you have a good safety harness..............There are deaths and injuries every year from falls.
Tags: plans, building, ladder, stand, nails screws, against tree, each side, front rail, ladder stand, already have, build ladder, come with, Deer Stands
Our 4 year old gas Fisher/Paykel dryer's belt broke- Looks like a pretty simple job but because the belt snapped I cannot figure out the belt routing. I checked their website and called them but having a hard time getting the info. Anyone know of a good site to order dryer manuals?
Hello skinut2234 and Welcome into the Gas Appliances topic. I'm not familiar with that dryer brand. Never heard of it. Must be a brand sold in your area but not nationwide. The best place I know of, to get the information and part, in my opinion, would be a local retail appliance parts store in your area. I am not a fan of online purchases unless you know exactly what is needed and the part number(s), etc. Any local retail appliance parts store should be able to get a manual for you. May print out the diagram of how the belt loops over and under the pulleys, if you ask them for a copy and also purchase the belt from them.
Tou might be able to get 1 from Sears, AE services them but I don't know it thay have the manual http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part...20080114x00001
Hello, You have to sign up as a member for this website, but you can get your manual here: http://laundry.manualsonline.com/man...duct_list.html Connie
Tags: manual, fisher, paykel, dryer, appliance parts, appliance parts store, Fisher Paykel, local retail, local retail appliance, local retail appliance parts, local retail appliance parts store, parts store
Is it just me, or is it impossible to buy a machete these days that comes sharpened??? I've purchased three so far from different stores and not a single one was even remotely sharp out of the package. I returned the ones I bought from the big boxes and kept the worse of the lot - from Harbor Freight - because I figured if I'm going to get a pre-dulled machete, I might as well get the cheapest one. However, a dull machete is not very useful, nor very pleasant to attempt to use, so what is the best way to sharpen one? I've tried bringing the edge to a point by passing it over my 4x36 belt sander but I can't seem to produce a constant bevel angle that way as I try to follow the curve of the blade. Oh, and when I wrote that the blade came pre-dulled, that means the edge is about 1/32 to 1/16 wide... not even remotely sharp, then. I figure once I get the edge to a point with the proper bevel I can then use my trusty Buck Bros. handheld sharpener to keep it touched up, but as of now it's too much of a job for that gizmo to tackle!
There are only two approaches. Move the blade across a fixed sanding or grinding device (which is what you tried) or anchor the blade and move the sanding or grinding device across the blade. I prefer the latter, and use a sanding disc on an angle grinder, with the tool I am sharpening in a vise. Works for me.
Back in my machete days, I carried a file in my pocket. You can tune up the edge with a whet stone.
I too bought the Harbor Freight machete and put the best edge I could on it. First time I hit a small tree (1' diameter) with it....I had a new shaped blade. Big cresent chunk out of it. Good luck.
Thanks for the responses, guys. I tried the method arkayassoc suggested and it was much easier than trying to hold the machete against the sanding belt at a constant angle. I brought the edge to a point with a few strokes of an opposed-carbide sharpener then promptly used it to whack off some woody stemmed weeds growing in my backyard. Yep, majakdragon, I have to say I am also distinctly unimpressed with the temper of the blade. The edge folded over a good 1/8 after one swipe. Unfortunately, I really need a good machete for this job I have coming up where I'll be clearing out the overgrowth around a retention pond. I need the machete to cut a path through the dense brambles so I don't get cut to ribbons when I run a brush cutter through them...
For the task you have in mind, a ditchbank may be a preferable tool. It's like a wide machete-blade with a long wooden handle. Available in home centers and some hardware/farm stores. Here's a picture of one: (Do a Google search for ditchbank. Choose the one you like.) The wooden handle will save your back and your arms.
If you want a serious machete you will have to pay $30-50 US. You might want to get a bolo style, it has a swollen tip, which gives more weight to the tip, and more speed to your swing. A ghurka style is a bolo with a dog leg in it. It looks vaguely like a boomerang. But don't bother with those stamped-steel cheapies. I have one and they're only good for very light work. Then again, you might temper it yourself with a blowtorch. I can't remember if you heat it, then cool it in water, or heat it, then let it cool down slowly.
Here's a ghurka-style one I bought from Cheaperthandirt.com. It has a thicker steel than the Harbor Freight stamped machete but I still think this one is stamped. I have not had a chance to use it extensively but it chopped kindling just fine. http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/ctd/p...sp?sku=DBA-401
I had never heard of the term 'ditchbank'. I looked it up on google and saw what I have always known as a 'Kaiser Blade' - very effective at trimming undergrowth.
some folks call it a sling-blade ummm hmmm.
I got one in hawaii that came from fuji. Great machete. The harbor freight ones aren't worth sharpening. I use an angle grinder to put a deep V on the cutting edge to shape it. Then hand file that to get it sharp. Cuts 2 trees in one blow. Awesome. I clear the gunpowder 25' trees faster than using the chainsaw. Blade gets taller (about 5) towards the tip. Paid $25
I've had my share of machetes, and other weaponry, and I find the best way is really just to tune with a whetstone. Or if you want to get fancy, you can use a diamond file, but they're mainly made for high-carbon steel. Since the blade really isn't sharpened, you may do best to anchor down the machete itself with a clamp or two and carefully follow the contours with a sturdy file. It may take a bit of time, but it's not entirely hard to get it even enough. It'll be a lot faster if it's a cheap blade, but you'd might as well sharpen others while you're at it, because you'll be mashing your sharpening job down a lot.
For a real machete, your best bet is miltary surplus. Look for one that is true surplus, else you're stuck with the el cheapos you mentioned. I carried one in the USMC a thousand years ago and used it to chop jungle vegetation. Sharpened fine with a whetstone or file, and the only thing I can remember negatively is the handles had a tendancy to break when you hit something like rock or metal accidentally. Prepare to pay $30 for one though
Googled machette and found the exact one I remeber for $19 at http://www.imsplus.com/ims8a.html Parkerized blade and mine still stays sharp after 30 years
For a machete to cut properly(in harder materials at least), it must be convexed... Go down and get one of the cheap $30.00 1x30 Harbor Freight belt sander/grinders. Use the part of the belt that is NOT supported by the back-plate. You want the edge to be rounded, NOT flat... Check out http://outdoors-magazine.com/ for a lot of info on brush cutting blades of all sorts.
James, you might note that the original question was posted over two years ago. I imagine the poster has long ago sharpened his machete and moved on...
i have an ontario machete and that thing stays sharpened for an extremely long time... just consider it
I have noticed too, that it is basically impossible to find a sharpened quality machete these days. I think basically it is because the market is flooded with 'made for export' foreign junk. It is factory cut, and they want to save time on production so just ship it out as a piece of metal with no edge right? I like to use mill files and sandpaper, and maybe a buff at the end. Never liked stones too much. A grinding wheel might come in handy, but then again you might just take off too much edge. One supplier in Hawaii has quality handmade machetes, you can find info at aranyik.com
just realized this was all started about 5 years ago and thought myself quite foolish so I deleted my input.
I'm all about being foolish so I will reply. The best machete I ever bought was a genuine US army one from a surplus store. Had (has) a great edge and I have the scar to prove it. Well really its not that bad.
Originally Posted by Tolyn Ironhand I'm all about being foolish so I will reply. The best machete I ever bought was a genuine US army one from a surplus store. Had (has) a great edge and I have the scar to prove it. Well really its not that bad. AH! so that is why you wear the chain mail in your avatar while wielding that sword that looks strangely like a machete`
Originally Posted by nap AH! so that is why you wear the chain mail in your avatar while wielding that sword that looks strangely like a machete` LOL! A little chain mail would have helped!
Or an OvGlove they advertise on TV. I agree, the milspec machetes seem to hold an edge and the handle fits fat hands better than the cheap ones do. On to more modern posts!! Thanks Nap.
I got a USMC 70's machete from a neighbor that was a Marine and passed. I have to use it on small Bass wood sapplings in the swappy area behind my place. Do I want a SHARP edge of a rounded grass mower style dulled edge on it?
Sharp edge for sure. Just be mindful how you swing. I like to swing down at a 45 or greater angle. Will cut through the saplings like butter.
How long does it take to sharpen a machete? This thread is over 5 years old.
Machetes these days are pathetic, they are too thin in comparison to back in the day.I like to have the extra weight to swing around aswell as the fact that they take much longer to dull down. The best machete i own is a ENDURE Josh Beal sons, it is cast steel and made in 1942 in Sheffield. Without going into too much detail try to get your hands on a old machete what ever the condition it will soon sharpen up with an angle grinder and a steady pair of hands. Trust me my best machete was found as blunt as a butter knife in a suitcase that was under 6 ton of rubble.
Tags: sharpen, machete, best machete, angle grinder, chain mail, edge point, Harbor Freight, these days, about being, about being foolish
I have a GE side-by-side fridge/freezer Model GSS22IBMC and noticed yesterday that the food wasn't very cold. It was colder on the bottom of both the refrig. and the freezer. I read another thread on this forum and took off the panel and sure enough, the coils were covered with ice. We recently had the power go out twice due to windy conditions, and I read that this often can affect the defrost timer. I was wondering what this part looks like, where it's located, and if I can easily replace it. Was looking on another site and couldn't find a part under the name 'defrost timer,' but thermostat defroster came up instead. Is that the same thing? Or do you even think the defrost timer is the problem? Everything in the freezer was defrosted, but cool, and the milk was bad in the fridge.
The defrost timer is likely the cause. It is simply a clock motor that stops the compressor after a few hours of run time. It also turns on the defrost heaters in the freezer section. If you pull the grill off the bottom there may be some technical information attached. This is sometimes attached to the back as well. If you can find this data sheet, it may direct you to the timer. Sorry for my lack of knowledge but the timer can be located in many locations. When you find it look for a sightglass. Through that you may see that the motor has stopped. Otherwise, you may can hear the motor or not.
Thanks Tater. I can access the coils (that I defrosted) either through the back or from the inside of the freezer. Unfortunately we bought it from a guy who reconditions refrigerators, so I don't think I have any paperwork. Do you know what a defrost timer looks like? Do they all look pretty much the same or not? I appreciate the help!
It could be the defrost timer, the defrost thermostat, or the heater itself. The defrost timer is usually located either at the same location the refrigerator thermostat is, up on the ceiling of the fridge compartment, or is located behind the toe-kick of the fridge. You can observe by the slot on the timer clock dial if the timer clock advances, with just observation. You can test the defrost stat and defrost heater by disconnecting the appropriate wires to these, at their locations at the cold freezer coils, and ohms test these.
Now if only I could locate the defrost timer! I looked near the coils, and under the kickplate. There isn't anything in the top of the freezer. Any other ideas? I also removed a panel on the back at the bottom.
this site has a lot of info and they are very helpful using email. I have ordered several items from them and they ship fast. Appliance Parts From RepairClinic.com - Guaranteed Same Day Shipping.
Top of the fridge compartment. Not the top of freezer compartment. Often it is right by the thermostat control. If it is there, you would be able to see the turn dial for it, that is in size between that of an eraser on the end of a pencil, and a dime.
I Googled the mod # you listed. Google came up empty but suggested gss22jfmc. This one hits about 300 times. When I look for it at GE they want to add CC to the number. This model has an electronic control board.
I found a diagram of that model too, and that's exactly what the back of the unit looks like. I opened the panel on the back of the freezer and there appears to be a mother board. Does my unit have that INSTEAD of a defrost timer? So far, it hasn't frozen up again since we defrosted it on Thursday. I'm hoping it was just a fluke. I know that isn't likely, but I can always hope, right?
What you could have if it is a newer refrigerator is an adaptive defrost timer (ADT). There is no knob to turn, but you can make it go into the defrost mode manually, without removing it. I don't know the process, as there are much different way, depending on make and model, check with factory on how. H.
It iced up again! When I woke up this morning the refrigerator was getting warm (about 40 degrees) but the freezer still seemed to be cold. We just finished defrosting that again with a blow dryer. Is this electronic control board something that takes the place of a defrost timer, or an adaptive defrost timer, and if so, is that what we should replace? I guess I have another few days before it frosts up again.
Have you located any kind of schematic? On at least older fridges, they often stuffed the papers in the bottom side track where the legs are. If your defrost runs off some control board, let's say, at least you still should be able to test the heater and the stat to find out if either of these has power to them, or continuity. That way you would know if the problem stems from either one of these, or if it is at the board instead.
Can you tell me test the heater and the thermostat? It'd be a lot cheaper to replace those than to replace the control panel thing. We bought the refrigerator reconditioned, so unfortunately, it doesn't have any papers with it.
My ignorance is about to show. I am not a refrigerator tech but I have worked on a few. I have seen this or similar problems on several refrigerators but never a side by side. If this were an over/under style I would examine the frost/ice. My first question would be; is this true frost or is it ice? Frost will be attached to the coil and fins only. Ice will be a solid block attached to everything in the coil compartment. The next question would be; does the melt water drain to the bottom? The last refrigerator I touched had a clogged drain. The melt water stayed in the coil compartment and re-froze. I suspect side by sides have a coil compartment similar to over/under units. Weed-Eater cord works great on clogged drains.
That's a good question. The first time it was frozen with very thick frost on the coils, and ice had formed at the edges. Today, it was mainly frost. There is a drain, and most of the water did go down there last time, I have no idea where it goes, lol, I guess that shows my ignorance. We sopped a lot of it up with a towel because we thought it would leak on the floor. It could still be in there refreezing. Where on earth do I look for a clog? I have no clue how I can get underneath the fridge.
The melt water drains to an evaporation pan. You will find the drain at the bottom of the coil compartment. Just rod that out with anything that is stiff enough to be pushed. Trimmer line works well. Just push until you feel bottom. If you do find a clog chase it with hot water. Your latest description doesn't sound like a clog but this is a good thing to do since you have things apart.
Originally Posted by Deannado Can you tell me test the heater and the thermostat? It'd be a lot cheaper to replace those than to replace the control panel thing. We bought the refrigerator reconditioned, so unfortunately, it doesn't have any papers with it. I post all over this board and in case I did not post this already here - You can tell if your defrost cycle works or not, if you turn all circuit breakers off in your house except the refrigerator circuit breaker. Then look at the electric meter. If it is turning, unplug the refrigerator and then go back out there and see if it has stopped. This test only will work well, if it does indeed stop, with all circuit breakers off in the house except the fridge one, AND the meter completely stops when you unplug the fridge. Then wait about 10 minutes, to let pressures equalize in the fridge. Then plug it back in. Then advance the defrost timer dial until the firdge shuts off, to where the compressor is no longer running. Now go out to the meter again and see if the meter is spinning now. If the defrost heater and it's circuit is working, the meter will be turning at a decent clip, as the defrost heater may be putting out from 450-600 watts, about. The described above test allows you to determine if it works without even having to take anything about, nor test with handheld electrical testing meters.
I can't locate the defrost timer in order to do this. I thought, from what somebody else said, that instead of a defrost timer, I had a mother board/computer control looking panel on the back of the fridge. Do I still have a defrost timer somewhere, because I can't find one in the places that everyone suggested.
Time to call up a shop and ask them if they'd be so kind to tell you. I don't think it is too embarrassing to ask questions like that, as you are nto asking specifically repair something yourself. In fact, people call up mfg. tech support with such questions. You are simply in the checking things out stage. Ask them if you have a separate defrost timer mounted where defrost timers are normally mounted (and where that might be), or if yours is incorporated on some motherboard (and where might that be). And if it can be manually advanced.
Thanks ecman, I'll give that a try. I did locate a sheet with technical data inside of the compartment with the temperature controls. I don't see a defrost timer on here anywhere, but there is a control panel. It's located on the back of the fridge. Listed under defrost control, it says 'adaptive system.' I don't know if this helps, or if any of the information on this sheet would be helpful. I'm sure it would make a lot more sense to you guys than it does to me. Still, none of these parts looks like the images that I've seen of defrost timers.
The adt does not have a knob to turn, it is controlled by several things other things, if you can see it, there will be a plastic plate where the knob would normally be. If you can find a nice repair company or factory tech, you can find out make this self defrost. There are so many different way on different models, you need a service manual to refer to to make it happen. Or if you can find and remove the adt, there is a way use a jumper to make it defrost. H.
Originally Posted by himeros The adt does not have a knob to turn, it is controlled by several things other things, ....... I have not had to deal with these yet. Too modern I guess. It is the motherboard era that seems to be causing everyones grief. F1 and all sorts of error codes and all that. I am still dealing with things when they made stuff where you can figure the stuff out.
Tags: refrigerator, freezer, cold, enough, defrost timer, coil compartment, looks like, control board, control panel, defrost heater
I have a well here at the house and a pressure tank to make pressure in the home. Well lately after replaceing a check valve at the well...a few weeks later I have had the pump coming on every 10 to 20 seconds whenever water is turned on in the house. I tried to check the pressure at the tank and alot of water shoots out of the air valve...does this mean the tank is shot? can I replce just the bladder inside if this is the problem or do I need a new tank? tyhe tank is a 20 gallon challenger series. model number PC66R. someone told me if i have to replace the tank I should get a bigger one that will cause the pump to work less. will this be better for my home or is the 20 gallon fine? Thanks for any help!
The top sticky in this forum shows check/set a pressure tank. Does sound like yours is malfunctioning though. If its an old type tank with no bladder, then its waterlogged and can probably be set back up. If its a bladder-type of tank, then its shot (bladder has ripped apart etc). Replacement size depends on your budget and physical space available to mount it. The larger your tank, the less your pump has to start-up.. and the longer your pump life. The sticky at the top of this forum goes into detail set the air pressure side of the tank (do this before adding water). Tags: tank, help, pressure tank, check pressure, check pressure tank, sticky this, sticky this forum, this forum, your pump
So I'm out enjoying the day in a house purchased last month. House is 8 years old. Decided I'd take advantage of the nice weather before work up in here in Southwest Ontario and start putting up a fence for my pooch who is really hating life on a leash! Anyways, as I'm digging a post hole I start hearing this gurgling and sure enough water comes to the surface at my feet. I look out maybe 10 feet infront of me and there is the rest of the water coming out of the sump pump pipe. So fine, the pipe is cracked. No biggie. I'm just having issues with the fact the pipe sticks out a bit from the ground kinda on the neighbors property and has a pool hose attached to discharge it over near the pool some 35' away. This is something that definitely needs to be rectified but I'm kinda stumped on what to do. I have like 150' to the back or to the front of the property to route this drain away. I have a really decent slope away from the house atleast within the 20' or so of it but my soil is basically clay so letting it squirt out on the ground is not the greatest idea. I have already ran my downspouts away from the house and I find the sump pump is running less frequently with rain. When we moved in, none of the spouts directed water away from the house. On our side of the road is a culvert of some time, and every time I checked it's filled with water, maybe 4' below the surface? On the other side of our road is a ditch/farm drain (farm fields on the other side of the road). This culvert is slighty below road grade on our side of the road so I can't envision the sump pump discharging there seeing as the water level is somewhat high in it. It seems higher than the water in the ditch/drain. What are my options? Do I run this discharge out to the backyard? Just hire somebody? Sue the bozo who did this (mind you, the neighbors house is probably a year or two old, hence the reason for cheating on the sump discharge. My next project on the go is a water powered sump pump for backup but I'd like to figure out what to do with this problem too before winter sets in. I have enough things on the go and am tempted to contract this out but I really don't have a clue what to expect when I get a quote to route this thing away. Just looking for some thoughts to fix it myself and any ideas what anyone would think this would cost if they came across anything like this before. (in ontario, canada) Note: The culvert I mentioned seems to be shared by the two propeties (has a grating over it) and even though the sump pump discharge ends at the neighbors property is does have a hose on it to discharge back on my property. Where the pipe is is probably 150' from their house. Their house is sloped pretty good too and that pipe is basically in the corner of their backyard (their house is set closer to the road than mine). I'm not worried about flooding them, just looking for the best way to fix this. Thanks!
Sump pump discharge can really be a source of irritation. It's a little hard to picture what you're working with there but a picture or two can tell the whole story. If you can shoot a few pics....post them here for us to see.
I'll see what I can do for pics there tomorrow..... Basically, sump pump discharges out perpendicular to the house. The end of the pipe is above ground at the lot line of my neighbor. The original owner just hooked up a 25' pool hose, attached it to the end of the sump discharge and snaked it toward the backyard. My guess is that the pipe cracked because that hose froze up? Logical guess. The hole the water seeped out of when the sump was on today was an ankle breaker. The soil where I'm installing the fence actually isn't too bad. I'm not having as much trouble as I thought using the post hole digger (manual). I know the rest of the yard is tricky. The house is on a clay area. Where the pool hose is now, goes and discharges on the surface and has stayed somewhat wet due to the rain we've seen the past two weeks or so. I'm thinking a french drain might atleast spread this water out.Part of me wants to hire it out but I'm cheap and like to think I'm a half decent do it yourselfer and like to save the cash when I can do the job. Like I said I'll see what I can come up with tomorrow. Any ideas appreciated.
Here they are.....we did get a little rain overnight, the side of the house with the pictures (my garage side) was sloppy down on the picture taken by the pool to the front yard. I'm just thinking of adding a 90 to repair the hole and just run this to the backyard ..... I'd like to incorporate it into some sort of landscape feature but it's just not gonna drain well anyway. This side of the house as you can see was built up as you see from the backyard pic. The neighbors yard isn't finished at all and yet my yard prolly sits a foot higher in spots.....good for me! LOL
I have a similar situation (except the previous owner ran it into the town sewer line within the house). I can see from the pictures why it was done the way it was done previously. Probably forgotten when the new house was built. In my case, to rectify mine, I'm going to need to rent a trencher and run the pipe the length of the yard to the back. Being in a similar environment, we both (you and I) need to be a bit concerned about frost. An alternative option I had looked at was to dig a pit, plate a barrel in it full of holes, and surround it with bolders, course gravel then cover. The sump would discharge into the barrel and leach out into the ground. For clay (which I have ~45ft deep), not going to work out too well. I'll be looking into the trencher a bit more and probably go that round. I am delaying due to other projects including a new garage and if the wife gets her way, and inground pool.
Well I guess my thinking is not too far off. For now I think I might just fix the pipe and finish the fence.....As you can see from the pic I have quite a few trees in the spot where I need to run. So those gotta go to do this. If I rent a mini excavator I should be able to pop the line where that wood retaining wall is and run it out to the backyard more and fill it over. Not the kind of work I'm interested in taking on but I could see someone charging a fair bit to run like 200' of trench....... I just moved from a house where the soil was loamy/sandy. I'm not sure how much my sump pump even ran. LOL.
I keep mulling this over.... In the middle picture, I have a downspout not shown that I need to reroute away from the house more..... If I repair that sump pipe and upsize it, if I 't' in the down spout into it to drain through the pressure treated wood wall. For now :I think I'll pop it underground through that wall seeing as it's out of site right now. If I get it sloped right I'll just extend the pipe away more to the ground. I almost want to consider throwing in a couple dry wells in the area facing that wood barrier too and just let the water trickle in. There is basically no chance for heavy traffic in that area if I did that and when I get around to it I can redig it up and tie back into it and run the french drain to the backyard after I get the trees stumps out of the way. Is that plausible to tie them into together?
My main concern with teeing your down spout in with your sump pump line would be the junk that will come off the roof and into that pipe. It will add extra back pressure on the sump pump and as time goes on.... Will cause issues. My main gutters on the roof are ~36ft from the ground. I still get shingle sand and other stuff in my downspout when we get really heavy rains.
I'll agree on the not tieing the roof drains into the sump system. We collect the front side of our roofs (about a 1000 sqft) into 2 large barrels. The primary barrel has a screen on top and its amazing the amounf of shingle sand, needles and bugs that fill up that screen. I like the idea of a dry well of some type. With proper direction of the roof downspouts, the only time you might over-run the 'well' would be during some nasty rain storms.. in which case there would be flooding all over anyhow so who cares if your 'well' is flooding over and running towards the neighbours.. Would it be worth putting in some type of heat wire to thaw the drain line to the well in the spring if needed ?
I'll agree on the not tieing the roof drains into the sump system. We collect the front side of our roofs (about a 1000 sqft) into 2 large barrels. The primary barrel has a screen on top and its amazing the amounf of shingle sand, needles and bugs that fill up that screen. I like the idea of a dry well of some type. With proper direction of the roof downspouts, the only time you might over-run the 'well' would be during some nasty rain storms.. in which case there would be flooding all over anyhow so who cares if your 'well' is flooding over and running towards the neighbours.. Would it be worth putting in some type of heat wire to thaw the drain line to the well in the spring if needed ? Heating wire would get really expensive to run, really quickly. Also noted, the OP mentioned they are dealing with clay, so anything below grade will not let water out too well.
Not teeing in....check. Makes sense. Didn't think about the shingle/dirt mess. I'll just run 'em side by side and go from there. We got a good amount of rain overnight. Had a swampy mess out in the front yard and one in the middle of the backyard. Never nice to look at. Definitely gonna have to consider a dry well in the areas where no one really goes to let the sump pool into it and go from there. There's nothing really accessible yard wise on the sump discharge side of the house where the pool deck is so that'll be a good place to start for now. It's clay. It's the nature of the beast. As long as the water is not at the house I'll have to live with it. The pool of water in the middle of the backyard is coverering a stone/cement walkway that's obviously sitting below everywhere else. Moving the water away from the house is my biggest concern. I know it's not going to matter if I change the grade of the land in certain areas because the underlying clay isn't going to help. I've been nosing around the net and actually found an intering way of improving drainage in clay by basically coring holes all over, refilling with compost and stuff and then the worms start doing there work and creating all the tunnels to these compost holes. Improves soil aeration and can improve drainage. That's a little ambitious if you ask me. LOL.
Hey, how about landscaping in one of those fancy ponds ?
Thought of that.....mosquito pool the wife said. LOL
Tags: sump, pump, discharge, from house, sump pump, away from, away from house, flooding over, side road, some type
We are considering installing French Doors leading to a patio off of our family room. However, we're concerned about privacy. We have plantation shutters in the rest of the room. Can plantation shutters be mounted/installed onto french doors? Thanks for everyone's help!!
yes. however - if you have 2 doors, one is stationary and the other opens (with the hinge being in between the 2 doors), you have to keep in mind that if the door opens too far, the 2 shutters could get mashed together get damaged or break. depending on your door's measurements and the projection of your shutters, you might be okay, as long as you're careful and don't let the door swing completely open. you can get a little hardware doohickey that fits onto the door hinges, made just for keeping doors from opening beyond a certain point. so, to be sure, before purchasing them, find out what the shutters' projection is and then take a look at your doors the location where they'll be mounted. then open your door see what will happen. from personal experience: i mounted 2 wood blinds on our doors and we can only open our door til it's coming straight out (90 degrees) and no more. opened any further and the two headrails touch. but, we're careful and so far it's worked out okay. to get in out, we don't really need for the door to be opened any further, but on a very windy day, i'm a nervous wreck!!! (i would've been okay with 1 blinds.....)
Thanks, Annette. But I'm a little confused now. I envision covering the glass section of each of the two french doors with the shutters. Each shutter would work independendly as each would be attached to one large rectangular pane of glass, right? I think I've seen this on hgtv but can't find it on their website. It appeared to me as if the shutter section jutted out a bit on each door to accommodate its frame on the window itself. If that would be the case, then opening either of the two french doors wouldn't be an issue. Am I correct on this or am I only imagining that this can be done?
so, you've got the kind of french doors that BOTH open, from the middle? like, you can walk up to them, grab both doorknobs at the same time which are practically side by side, open them both walk right through a huge opening? overhead view of yours opening into the room: / \ because my french doors consist of 2 doors, but one is just a stationary door (no knob). the other one opens, and hinges from the middle of the 2 panels, so it's possible for me to swing my door open so far open, into the room, that it could come all the way back around hit the stationary one. overhead view of mine opening into the room: __/ understand now? if you've got the first kind, no problemo!
Gotcha! You're right. I'm envisioning two separate doors that open in the middle with lever handles, one on each door. I thought that was the definition of 'french doors.' Also, everyone has been telling me to have both doors swinging OUT towards the outside, rather than in. One more thing -- the ones I've seen have one large solid pane of glass in each door, as opposed to doors with lots of smaller panes in them. Scroll down the page on this link to see what I mean: http://www.windowexpress.net/products.htm Wouldn't that then make it possible to install the plantation shutters in each? Only thing is, it might cause the shutters to jut out a bit more into the room. Wonder if that's a problem. Thanks for your help. I'm learning a lot!! Hey, I just did a search on Google and I think I found exactly what I'm talking about. Scroll about half way down the page @: http://www.riverwoodcompany.com/generic0.html So I guess it is do-able. Think it's an expensive undertaking? thanks, again!
when i think of real french doors i think of the kind you've got. but then what do i call mine (when only one door opens)??? hmmmm... also, who are these everyone people who are telling you to have the doors swing out??? i'm 99% sure they're supposed to swing IN, like your front door does. most of the doors in your house that lead you to the outside, swing in. for one thing, when they swing in, the hinge is on the inside. if it swung out, the hinge would be on the outside, and burglars could just undo your hinge take your door off to get inside!!! (actually, they make a safety hinge just for that purpose) but generally, i think you need them to swing in. my door swings in. imagine that it's raining outside. would you want your door to swing out into the elements? (your patio is probably covered, but the same logic applies). to be sure, i'd post that question in the Doors Windows forum. anyway - yes, as that last picture shows, it's possible. as to how expensive it is, that website had a place to go for a quote. might as well get one. then compare it to several others. be prepared - they're not cheap! but you know that, since you've already got plantation shutters in the room. i wouldn't expect these to be any more than those were. (maybe just a bit more because of the frame). are you going to go with the same brand that the other ones are? i would. you want them to all be the same. also, since you are putting up shutters, i'd go with the plain glass, not the divided lights. that would be too busy. the projection will seem like a lot at first, but being an outside mount on a door, where else can they go but out? we're used to seeing shutters mounted inside window frames, so it'll just take some getting used to. i don't think it will be any kind of problem though.
Plantation Shutters can be installed in French Doors. The main concern is door handles. The frame on a plantation shutter can be notched or you can order extensions for the handle.... If I can be of help let me know. P.s. Also think about both doors being open at the same time. The shutters may hit each other or obstruct the full opening.
P.s. Also think about both doors being open at the same time. The shutters may hit each other or obstruct the full opening. ~we already covered that - his doors both open from the center outward, so they can't hit each other. but good info on the handle [potential] problem.
Tags: plantation, shutters, french, doors, into room, your door, both doors, each door, each other, french doors
The type of cookware best suited to each individual varies according to her cooking style, the number of people she cooks for, and the time she wishes to spend caring for the cookware. When choosing what you want to buy, take into consideration price, durability, reactivity and conductivity.
Significance
Cookware consists of pots, pans, baking sheets and other utensils used to prepare and cook food. Depending on your budget and the cookware's purpose, it can be made of a variety of materials. Cookware requires different levels of care and handling depending on its composition.
Types
Consumers can choose from aluminum, anodized aluminum, cast iron, copper, stainless steel, nonstick, glass, stone and several other types of cookware. There is an array of specialty cookware available for making specific meals, such as paella pans or tagines or fondue pots. Bakers can choose from many types of specialty pans to make particular cakes or cookies.
Features
You can buy cookware that is dishwasher-safe, but some types must be cleaned with specific cleaners. Copper, for example, is difficult to keep shiny without regular maintenance. If you wish to cook without oils or sprays, non-stick cookware offers easy cleanup and the ability to cook without added fats. Some cookware brands offer a lifetime warranty while others offer one that lasts a year or less.
Considerations
While a less-expensive brand of cookware might look shiny and perfect when it comes out of the box, it's worthwhile to think about what it will look like after regular use. Heat conductivity measures the ability of cookware to transmit heat efficiently from a heating source to the food you are cooking. In general, the more expensive types of cookware often conduct heat more efficiently, which means cooking temperatures will be more consistent. Reactivity is the way certain metals affect foods. For example, aluminum and copper tend to react to different acids, making them a poor choice for cooking tomato sauce. The reactivity can change the taste and color of your meal.
Theories
According to the Alzheimer's Society, there is some circumstantial evidence linking high aluminum levels to Alzheimer's disease, but no research that indicates any direct correlation. Some people prefer to avoid exposure to aluminum as much as possible, however, to minimize any risk of developing this illness.
The chemicals used in Teflon and other non-stick cookware have also been implicated as potential carcinogens. In a study conducted by Good Housekeeping magazine, Dr. Robert L. Wolke, a professor emeritus of chemistry at the University of Pittsburgh, declared non-stick cookware safe as long as it's not heated to over 500 degrees F., the point at which the coating begins to break down.
Geologists study rocks found on the Earth's surface and inside of its layers. They assist mining, construction and engineering firms in making determinations on use or remove rocks for industrial purposes. The need for hydrologists and geoscientists like geologists in the United States will increase by 18 percent from 2008 through 2018, according to the U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics. The National Association of State Boards of Geology offers a certification program, which confers the Professional Geologist credential. In some states, certification is required before starting work as a geologist.
State Requirements
The National Association of State Boards of Geology only offers Professional Geologist certification for geologists who reside in states that mandate licensing or registration in the field. As of January 2011, 31 states fully regulate the practice of geology, thus requiring certification. The NASBG allows each state to establish its own set of qualifications for certification but there are general similarities across states.
Education
Typically, a Doctor of Philosophy degree is necessary to gain certification as a professional geologist. There are a number of colleges and universities in the United States that offer Ph.D. programs in geology. In 2010, U.S. News and World Report compiled a list of the best geology graduate programs in the country, which included the University of Arizona, the University of Michigan-Ann Arbor, Pennsylvania State University, the University of Texas-Austin, Stanford University, California Institute of Technology and the Massachusetts Institute of Technology. Doctorate programs in geology usually take a minimum of four years, and require students to complete a lengthy research project and dissertation. These programs generally include chemistry and physics courses as well as classes directly related to geology, such as mineralogy, which deals with the chemical composition and structures of the Earth's minerals.
Examination
One standard requirement for Professional Geologist certification is the successful completion of examinations developed by the National Association of State Boards of Geology. Two examinations are offered through the NASBG: the Fundamentals of Geology and Practice of Geology. States determine which exam candidates for licensing must complete; some states may require both tests. Each exam is multiple choice and last up to four hours. The NASBG administers the exams twice each year in the spring and fall.
Other Requirements
Generally, states mandate that applicants for certification complete an application and pay a fee to the state. In addition, states may impose other requirements on geologists seeking certification. Evidence of a certain number of years of experience in research or as an assistant to a professional geologist may be necessary. Some states mandate that applicants undergo criminal background checks prior to applying for certification. A small number of states require certified Professional Geologists to complete continuing education coursework on a regular schedule in order to maintain their certifications.
Most women have from time to time suffered from a yeast infection. This can be caused by hormonal changes as well as from the use of antibiotics. Stress and high carb diet can also contribute to yeast overgrowth.
But relief from painful yeast (candida) infection symptoms can be as simple as adding coconut oil to your diet.
This can be done in conjunction with your regular yeast infection treatment or used alone as a natural yeast infection cure. And this article on use coconut oil for a yeast infection will help get you started.
Instructions
1. Purchase Organic virgin coconut oil.
In order for this natural yeast infection cure to work you must be sure to use only organic virgin coconut oil.
2. Eat coconut oil.
You will need to take 1 Tbs. of coconut oil three times a day for at least a week. One good way to do this is to replace your regular cooking oil with the coconut oil. Otherwise you can add it to foods and smoothies or simply just swallow a spoonful of coconut oil with a glass of water.
3. Soothe the itch.
Coconut oil can be applied at the site to help soothe and calm the itch and burning. The coconut oil can also be used internally by inserting a tampon into the coconut oil. And then inserting the tampon as you normally would, and wearing for approx. four hours.
4. Eliminate sugar from your diet.
Sugar and simple carbohydrates feed the yeast. so in order for your yeast infection treatment to work properly you need to remove them from your diet as much as possible.
Dealers carry service manuals with instructions for replacing a fuel injector.
Harley-Davidson's 2001 Road King and Electra Glide motorcycles feature twin-cylinder 1,449 cc engines with electronic fuel injection. Typically, poor throttle response, along with reduced engine performance, indicates one of the fuel injectors is faulty. Fuel injectors for the front and rear cylinders are located on the fuel induction module between the cylinders. Replacing the front injector is relatively easy. The most time-consuming part of the job is removing certain external components to access the injector. Those with limited knowledge of these motorcycles should enlist the assistance of a qualified Harley-Davidson technician.
Instructions
Preparation
1. Remove the chrome air cleaner cover at the right side of the engine. Remove the horn at the left side of the engine and disconnect the wire at the back of the horn.
2. Loosen and remove the mounting bolts at the underside of the rider's seat. Lift the seat off and set it aside. Save the bolts.
3. Turn off the fuel supply at the underside of the gas tank. Loosen and remove the bolt where the front of the tank mounts at the steering head. Save the bolt.
4. Lift the rear of the tank enough to disconnect the vapor valve line that connects at the right side. Detach the front and rear check-valve body assemblies from the underside of the tank.
5. Lift the gas tank enough to disconnect the gauge wires and ignition wires that run from the instrument console on top of the tank to the plug-in connectors near the steering head. Lift off the gas tank and set it aside.
Fuel Injector
6. Identify the pair of fuel injectors at the top of the fuel induction module. Detach the sensor wire at the plug-in connector on the front injector. Remove the retainer screw and clip from the face of the front injector. Save the screw and the clip. Pull the injector out of the port on the induction module.
7. Apply lightweight oil into the O-ring recesses on the new injector. Fit the larger O-ring into the recess at the upper end of the injector. Fit the dual O-ring into the adjacent recesses. Fit the smaller O-ring into the recess near the tip of the injector.
8. Apply a small amount of lightweight oil into the injector port on the induction module. Slide the injector into the port, making sure the plug-in connector at the outer end is facing toward the outside of the module. Attach the saved clip and retainer screw to the outer end of the injector. Attach the sensor wire to the plug-in connector on the injector.
9. Position the gas tank above the injection module. Reattach the plug-in wire connectors near the steering head. Reconnect the front and rear check-valve body assemblies at the underside of the gas tank. Reconnect the vapor valve line at the right side of the tank.
Secure the gas tank to the mount at the steering head with the saved bolt.
10. Reattach the rider's seat and tighten the mounting bolts. Connect the wire to the back of the horn and mount the horn. Reattach the air cleaner cover.
Tips Warnings
Consider replacing the rear injector while you have access to the fuel induction module.
Include new O-rings when reattaching the vapor valve line and check-valve body assemblies to the gas tank.
It might be necessary to remove the instrument console from the top of the gas tank before removing the tank.
The Moen Chateau single handle faucet includes a lever-style handle, trim plate and stop tube kit assembly. To remove this faucet for a replacement or to change out parts, you must disassemble the entire unit. From start to finish, the project takes under an hour, or even less if you have experience taking appliances or faucets apart. You only need basic tools and some fairly common handyman skills to get this job done, but the more experience you have the better.
Instructions
1. Shut off your home's water so you can disassemble the faucet without causing a leak. Close the home's main water line near your water heater.
2. Unscrew the handle screw under the Chateau's single lever handle with an Allen wrench. Pull the handle off and unscrew the adapter underneath the handle to take the part off.
3. Remove both escutcheon screws with a screwdriver. The escutcheon is the round trim plate behind the faucet body on your shower wall. Pull this plate off the wall.
4. Pull the stop tube kit off the faucet. This includes the limit stop, a round dial knob on the end of the faucet, and the trim sleeve, a cylindrical sleeve that installs over the faucet body. Take out the handle extension rod if your faucet includes one.
5. Pull the metal cartridge clip out of the faucet's body with a pair of pliers. This clip is situated on top of the faucet body and it goes all the way through the cartridge itself. Slide the cartridge out of the faucet.
Decorative ornaments can add a festive touch to your indoor or outdoor holiday decor. Before you purchase ornaments that look like the ones everyone else has, make your own distinctive metal decorations from junk headed for the recycling plant. With a few craft supplies, you can transform thin metal cans into one-of-a-kind accessories for your home or garden. You can embellish wreaths, trees, centerpieces, doorways and garland with metal ornaments made from recycled junk.
Instructions
1. Rinse out a soda can with water. Sand the outside of the can to dull the surface and prepare it for painting. Medium grade sandpaper will also remove some of the advertising from the can. Remove the sanding debris with a damp cloth. Dry the can.
2. Paint the outside of the metal can with acrylic paint or metal spray paint. Select a color that suits the design of your ornament. For example, if you are making a Christmas ornament, paint the can red, green, blue, silver or gold to coordinate with your holiday decor. Allow the paint to dry.
3. Insert a serrated knife through the can just below the top rim and just above the bottom rim. The knife makes an opening so you can cut the can with scissors.
4. Cut the top and the bottom from the can with scissors. Cut along the seam of the can so you can flatten the metal.
5. Flatten the can, paint side down, on a flat work surface. Sand the metal facing up to prepare it for paint. Paint the surface as you did the outside of the can or leave it silver. Allow the paint to dry.
6. Tape the template for your ornament onto the flattened metal. Trace the outline onto the metal with a marker. Cut out the ornament design with scissors.
7. Puncture the top of the ornament with an awl. Glue glass beads, crystals, ribbon, buttons or other embellishments onto the ornament with craft glue. You can also create patterned lines in the metal by pressing down hard with a stylus or some other blunt-tipped object.
8. Cut a 6-inch strand of 1/4-inch wide ribbon. Thread the ribbon through the hole at the top of the ornament. Tie the ends together in a bow to make a hanger for the ornament.
Tips Warnings
Warning: The cut edges of a metal can are sharp; handle with care and wear gloves to protect your skin.
Oral calluses are open lesions in and around the mouth. Calluses that form on the gums can be particularly painful and the hardest to treat. Oral calluses can result from wearing dentures, which can harbor bacteria due to the mouth's moist environment. Calluses appear in people who wear dentures in part due to wearing improperly fitted dentures or having poor oral hygiene practices. Rid calluses under dentures by knowing effectively clean dentures, by investing in medicated creams, and by opting for denture liners to speed up the healing process of calluses caused by dentures.
Instructions
1. Wash your dentures daily with a nonabrasive denture wash to remove bacteria and food particles that can aggravate oral calluses on the gums.
2. Remember to gently remove your dentures after every meal to rinse away any remaining food particles. Soak dentures in denture solution at night to further remove bacteria that can cause and aggravate oral calluses.
3. Apply topical antihistamines, corticosteroids creams or other soothing creams recommended by a doctor to ease callous discomfort. Apply medication on the gums as directed on the product label or as advised by a doctor.
4. Follow up with a dentist to make sure that your dentures fit correctly and to determine whether they need adjustments. Some dentures can cause calluses when they slide out of place, creating irritation that results in calluses.
5. Request for a temporary liner to be applied to the gums when wearing dentures. These liners provide cushion underneath the dentures by fitting between the denture base and the bony ridges, offering moderate callous relief.
6. Occasionally remove your dentures to air out the gums. Calluses can heal quicker by allowing the medicinal creams to take effect without being smothered underneath dentures. After removing dentures, gently wipe your gums using a damp, warm washcloth. This will remove harmful bacteria that can lead to gum calluses and other painful oral infections.
A puddle of oil on your kitchen floor can grow bigger and even more slippery when mixed with soap and water. There's a much better way to clean up oily accidents. This remedy also works for broken eggs.
Instructions
1. Sprinkle the puddle with a very generous amount of salt. (If you run out of salt, pour flour on the spill and mix before sweeping.)
2. Let it soak for a few minutes.
3. Sweep up the salt.
4. Clean the remaining film of oil with a few drops of dishwashing liquid and damp paper towels.
Want to purchase designer clothes like Coogi, Black Label, Evisu, and Polo at discount prices. Well look no farther, I will show you find the best prices on the clothing brands you love.
Instructions
1. Shop on Craigslist. You can find clothes that people are trying to sell for very cheap prices. Make sure you can see the picture of the article you are trying to buy before purchasing.
2. Try shopping at flea markets or stores that sell clothing in bulk or aren't known as nationwide stores. These types of stores usually carry name brand clothes at very low prices compared to department stores or the mall.
3. Consider ordering your clothes from web sites associated with China. Most of our clothing comes from China and it does not cost much to produce clothing over there. Their prices will be much more worth the price.
4. Next, look for clothing articles that family or friends may be trying to sell. Ask around with people you know. You may be able to find cheap name brand clothes this way.
5. Lastly, do your clothes shopping on EBay. You can find competitive deals on here from reputable sellers.
Tips Warnings
These are great ways to buy cheap name brand clothes at a discount.
Installing a new Grohe Ladylux faucet is a project the average homeowner can complete with basic tools and a general knowledge of home repair. The process takes about an hour to complete. Updating your faucet with a new Ladylux model will add versatility to your kitchen, as the pull-down spray head offers extra maneuverability. If this is your first faucet installation, consult your owner's manual before attempting the install and follow the directions carefully.
Instructions
1. Turn the water off by closing hot and cold water valves in the sink cabinet.
2. Slide the O-ring over the hoses and onto the base of the faucet.
3. Feed the faucet hoses through the sink's mounting hole and into the cabinet area below it.
4. Attach the brace to the faucet by sliding it over the faucet hose, and slide the washer over the hose. Connect the nut to the hoses with the provided key. Place the key in the faucet hose and turn clockwise to connect it to the faucet. Connect the hoses to the water pipes by tightening the connectors.
5. Slide the sprayer hose through the faucet spout and place the bottom end of the hose through the faucet body. Connect the hose to the faucet body and press the spout into the body of the faucet.
6. Attach the sprayer head to the spray hose by pressing the fitting into the hose. From underneath the sink, slide the spring onto the hose and attach the coupling to the end of the hose and tighten it.
7. Install the cartridge in the side of the faucet by inserting it into the washer ring. Install the cartridge screws and adapter. Place the cover on and tighten it by hand.
8. Attach the handle on the cover and tighten the set screw with the Allen wrench to hold it on the faucet.
Brewer's yeast and garlic tablets for dogs contain yeast or Saccharomyces cerevisiae, which is a type of fungus, that is a byproduct of the beer brewing process. The yeast cells are dead and have been sterilized, as well as dried. This yeast is used to ferment the sugars in grains to make beer. While there is no evidence that brewer's yeast repels fleas, it does help keep your dog's skin and coat healthy. The garlic in the tablets is what is thought to actually repel fleas and ticks.
Benefits
Some of the benefits of giving your dog a daily tablet containing brewer's yeast and garlic are that fleas and ticks will be repelled, your dog will have healthy skin and a shiny, glossy coat, as well as a reduction in shedding.
Nutritional Content
Brewer's yeast has many nutrients that are beneficial for your dog. It is a good source of protein, and has all the essential amino acids, as well being a good source of RNA, a nucleic acid that enhances the immune system, and may slow down the aging process, as well as possibly help your dog from getting degenerative diseases. Brewer's yeast is also a wonderful source of B-complex vitamins such as biotin, riboflavin, folic acid and niacin to name a few. In conclusion, it is high in minerals as well such as, zinc, iron, phosphorus and chromium to name a few.
Considerations
Some vets and dog care specialists say that it is not a good idea to feed your dog brewer's yeast and garlic, because the garlic has an ingredient called thiosulphate, which may decrease the number of red blood cells in your dog and thus cause anemia. However, according to the National Research Council and National Academy of Sciences there is no evidence to support this from studies. One problem with this though is that in most studies the garlic is applied to the skin only once, rather than through ingestion, and because of this there is no way to tell the long-term effects on dogs who digest garlic over long periods. The safest dosage of garlic for your dog is 10 mg per pound of your dog's body weight each day.
Warning
One health problem that can be triggered by your dog ingesting brewer's yeast is bloat. Bloat is a very serious health problem for a dog, and can result in death in as little as six days. Also, dogs who are diabetic should not be given brewer's yeast because it affects blood sugar levels. So it may be a good idea to have your dog tested for diabetes by your vet before beginning a brewer's yeast and garlic regime.
Prevention/Solution
One way to get around the problems that brewer's yeast can cause for some dogs is to not have your dog ingest it at all. Instead some vets say that to get the same results in your dog's skin and coat, simply dissolve some brewer's yeast in a spray bottle of water and then spray it on your dog's coat. Finally, take a brush and brush the solution through your dog's coat and this will have the same or similar benefits as your dog ingesting brewer's yeast.
Hi, hoping someone might be able to provide some advice. ADT worked fine, as far as I know, using the telephone line I had hooked up with my cable company, Charter Communications. I then switched to Ooma, and in doing several tests with ADT, they don't receive the signal, and after the first couple tests we tried, the phones didn't have a dial tone for something like 5 or 10 mins. Upon researching through these and other forums, the common recommendation seems to be to go into programming, and edit setting 40, entering #11 99 #13 (aka *99pause). So here's the steps I took Verified after the initial tests that I did with ADT, nothing shows up in my call log on my.ooma.com. Verified hookup. Have phone splitter coming off Ooma unit, with one wire going to fax/printer, and the other going to female part of a female and male special phone jack on the end of a wire going to ADT panel. Verify phone (handset) works fine (I get the Ooma special tone, don't know shut that off if it matters). Tried to enter programming on ADT panel by entering 6321800. It made a sorta long beep, but a 20 never displayed to let me know I was in programming. Other commands like #40, etc. didn't seem to do anything, so I was convinced I didn't have right installer code. Used method to retrieve installer code from sticky FAQ here. After plugging in battery and power to ADT, the unit was in programming mode, and I hit #20 to see installer code, and weirdly it was 6321 which I tried before. Looked at 40 which was blank, 41 which was 1877xxxxxxx, and 42 which was blank. Hit *40 to edit it, and typed #11 70 #13 Exited programming by hitting *99 Called ADT to test, and they had me do silent test by doing 51. We waited like 3 mins, and they received no call. I checked call log on my.ooma.com and still nothing registered. I'm not sure what else to try at this point? Am I stuck getting the cell hookup for ADT for another $12/mo.? Thanks in advance for any advice. Steve
From Ooma's support site: Home alarm compatibility If you have a home alarm system that relies on a phone line, we recommend that you use Ooma with a landline or keep a separate landline to support your alarm system. Note: Ooma Telo units manufactured after April 2011 no longer have the option to connect a landline. Basically, it sounds like this VOIP solution is not compatible with DTMF communication devices like alarm systems.
Ok. I was under the impression by people in other threads that they got this working. Perhaps the posts were older than that.
I've written this before but it bears repeating. Using a VoIP system for alarm communications is a crap shoot. The reliability that is required with alarm systems just plain doesn't exist with VoIP. It may work ten times out of ten on testing but then fail on the first real alarm. VoIP is dependent upon the VoIP adapter, the LAN in the house, the WAN Internet connection, power failures, data corruption and every step is a potential failure point. For non-critical alarms where all you want is the alarm to call your cellular telephone AND you already have a VoIP system in place it might be okay but never think of VoIP as sustaining a mission critical connection to the alarm monitoring station. If you don't have a traditional (I.e copper wire) telephone system then go cellular for alarm monitoring. Truth is, I wouldn't depend on anything but cellular for alarm monitoring.
Tags: getting, work, ooma, alarm monitoring, installer code, alarm system, alarm systems, call ooma, cellular alarm, cellular alarm monitoring, didn have, like mins, VoIP system, which blank
I have a schlage door lock from my house to my garage, when the door is locked and I turn the handle to take the trash out the door opens but remains locked, I find myself locked out of the house often. Is there a way to set these locks so that when the knob is turned to open from the inside that it will unlock and stay unlocked? Thanks, Jim
You can diassemble the lockset and check to make sure the rod that engages the twist knob is inserted properly.
You probably have what is called a Schlage F series entry lock. One of the 'features' of a Schlage F series lockset is the interior knob is always unlocked to allow free egress at all times. I am assuming this is your issue... does the lock button on the inside turn or does it turn and push in? If the button only turns it is a F Series.... if it turns and pushes in it is an A series Schlage. If the screws are visible on the inside of the lockset rose it is an F series... as the A series locks have concealed screws. If you have an F series Schlage you are better off replacing it for a number of reasons. First being security. These locks are sold under the Grade 2 UL designation (meaning light duty commercial duty) ... but are likely one of the least durable grade 2 locks manufactured. These locks tend to yield quickly to a forced entry attack. I could gain entry into your home secured with this lock in under 5 seconds... no kidding. Secondly, I have seen numerous F series locks malfunction over the years.. never giving any indication of problems until the befuddled home owners were forced to contact me (a locksmith) to help them gain entry. The primary issue appears to be the deadlatch. (the springy part that protrudes from the edge of the door) With use the deadlatch will sometimes break and prevent the door from being opened despite the fact the lock itself is unlocked. Schlage now offers a lifetime replacement warrenty on F series locks. Not that it will do you much good when you are stuck outside of your home at night. Lastly, of all residential lockouts I have done over 10 years of working fulltime as a locksmith, approximately 70% of the homes had Schlage F series locks. It would appear you are not the only one having issues with getting locked out. Hope this helps! G. Dunn
i have these locks and i'm always getting locked out. looks like i can't change any internal settings to fix this problem. time to replace the locks.
My Gosh... I just bought an F-Series, and realized the design is TERRIBLE! I quickly figured out I was going to get locked outside often... I took it apart immediately and will return it. This is the worst design EVER for a lock. Is Schlage CRAZY?!?!
Originally Posted by gnolivos My Gosh... I just bought an F-Series, and realized the design is TERRIBLE! I quickly figured out I was going to get locked outside often... I took it apart immediately and will return it. This is the worst design EVER for a lock. Is Schlage CRAZY?!?! They have a purpose and a use and are competitively priced. I dont know many locksmiths that carry them because of the quality issues, but many customers seem to prefer to not shop at their locksmith but rather at their big box retailer and be served by people who have no idea as to what they are talking about. In this price driven economy, you pay for what you get. If you want quality, then seek the advice of a professional. You still might be able to purchase a better quality product from them and still do it yourself, but at least you wont be steered down the wrong path.
This is going to soud rude, I know, but I read your post 3 times and see no purpose in it. Was there a point you were trying to make, directly tied to the issue I described? You write like a robot! Was that a 'standard' response of sorts? Originally Posted by GlobalLocky They have a purpose and a use and are competitively priced. I dont know many locksmiths that carry them because of the quality issues, but many customers seem to prefer to not shop at their locksmith but rather at their big box retailer and be served by people who have no idea as to what they are talking about. In this price driven economy, you pay for what you get. If you want quality, then seek the advice of a professional. You still might be able to purchase a better quality product from them and still do it yourself, but at least you wont be steered down the wrong path.
Well sir, You obviously are reading something that is not there. Do you do research before buying something or just believe what the *********shop assistant tells you? The locks are designed purposely to cater to the many different uses as required by more than one demographic of customer. Schlage have tailored a product to provide multiple uses, thereby reducing their production costs and consequently the retail price (of having more than one product).
No sir, I don't buy at the Home Depot thank you very much. No, I did not research much. This was the ONLY lock that matched the exact style of the enture house, so my options are rather... limited? Back to my original comment... what a poor design! Have a nice day.
Well, the Schlage F-51, in it's various finishes designs, has been one of the most successful highest selling consumer-grade locks in the last 10 years....not bad for such a poor design! But the big-box stores can't satisfy 100% of the folks 100% of the time. A visit to a full-line locksmith can show you that there are dozens of cylindrical lock function options---that is, mechanical arrangements of locking buttons key cylinder. They are generally only available in higher-grade hardware that unfortunately will not match EXACTLY the F-51 lever design you have. What most folks do to eliminate accidental lockouts AND improve security, is to replace the locking doorknob (lever, F-51, whatever) with a PASSAGE function, (I believe it's a F-10 in Schlage) in the same design, then install a deadbolt above. (The Passage function does not lock, period) Bingo! no lockouts, 4 times the security.
Thanks for the support rstripe.... Sometimes, it would be nice for the mods to show support of their regulars similarly. cant have my cake and eat it too!
Gotta watch those Unnecessary Comments, Global! (LOL) My previous post suggested a passage set with deadbolt, but if you already have a deadbolt, or don't need one, but would still like a keyed lever/knob lock that won't lock you out look at the Schlage AL50PD ......it uses a pushbutton that, when pushed in, locks the outer knob, and pops out when you turn the inner knob to go out. It's a medium-grade commercial lock, so it'll be more expensive, and you'll have to specify 2-3/8 backset, (for residential standard), but you'll end up with a lock that'll last forever in a residential setting. There's a couple of other brands with the same function, and probably cheaper than Schlage, so check with your local smithy.
I also find the design of the Schlage F-Series to be unacceptable. I bought the lock as a replacement and as soon as I noticed that the interior knob is always unlocked I decided to take it back.. I knew that if I didn't take it back I would find myself locked out..
I unlocked a door for a customer the other day, who did not realise they had locked the door similarly. They had their car in the driveway and the auto garage opener would not work due to a broken garage door return spring. Picked the lock in a second, after opening the garage door from outside by disengaging the release pull. NEVER go out without your front door key.
Most manufacturers have gone to the always unlocked inner lever entry function lockset to improve the life-safety aspect....ie., no need to fumble with a little turn-button, in a panic-exit situation, etc. Read post #10 for my lock-out solution, or hide a key outside.
Hi. I'm having a similar issue with some sort of Schlage handle. (I'm having a hard time finding which model number it is.) Though I'm presuming it's an F series of some sort. Push button lock inside and a key for the outside. The rumor is that it will lock behind people, though I've had issues getting it to lock at all. I see that the answer is probably just replace the whole thing but I'd like to know what to look at when I take it apart to figure out why the push button is acting up. Any insight is appreciated, thanks!
I can see a push button sometimes failing to catch or getting somehow otherwise disengaged and leaving the device unlocked but physics and thermodynamics seem to be against this device locking itself
Don't know the age or use/abuse history of your lock, but usually a few drops of oil on the locking cam other wear parts will restore smooth action....don't spend too much time on an F series tho, they are low cost not designed to be a heavy duty lock.
We recently discovered this feature when my 90 year old father got locked out for almost an hour one morning. He has parkinson's so this could have potentially been deadly. I immediately swapped out the Schlage locksets with Kwikset. This is not just a nuisance but downright dangerous – especially if you have young children or elderly living with you. The dangers of this deceptive feature far outweigh any benefits that you could get from it.
Deceptive? It's not deceptive. It is what it is - I've lived with these locks for more than 30 years and never been locked out. That said, if you have a problem with this design, switching to a different line of locks which does not act this way is the right decision, kudos on doing that instead of just complaining about it.
I have a house full of door set locks that all work the same way. The button can lock the door but will unlock when you close door. The key will only open door but will not lock door. Can this function be changed so that I can lock door and leave the room? Thanks for any help.
Not without replacing locks
I forgot to mention that these were baldwin/schlage locks. What kind of function is it that will not allow you to lock the door and leave the room? Anybody know what it is called and the purpose? Thanks
Originally Posted by jerichoh Anybody know what it is called and the purpose? I think they're called storeroom sets, which is pretty self explanatory.
All Baldwin locksets are guaranteed for life from the manufacturer. Just call them up, explain your issue and they will send a replacement part FREE. Storeroom function is, always locked on the outside. Entrance function differs brand to brand, usually a turnbutton inside will lock the outside handle, leaving inside unlocked for emergency escape. Classroom function is key locks and unlocks outside handle - inside is always unlocked Classroom secure function is inside or outside key locks and unlocks outside handle only - inside is always unlocked
And I think institutional function is something like always locked on inside and outside, key retracts the latch...
How so? These locks do not allow you to lock a room up and walk away as you would with a storeroom. They only allow you to lock yourself in the room.
institutional function Think cell block A to cell block B. No key - you can't go where you don't belong.
Thank you all for your input. Although, I still don't think any of the functions exactly match these locksets. The keys will NOT lock the door, only open it. The inside button will lock door if it is closed but if you lock the door first, then close door the lock will pop open. So, you can lock yourself in the room but you CANNOT lock door and go away. What kind of function would that be? Thanks BTW The normal default position on these locks is OPEN. So, I do not think they could be considered institutional. You can ONLY lock yourself in the room.
Well, sounds like the same function as a bathroom lockset....only with a key instead of the little hole that you insert a tool or small screwdriver in.
I'm pretty sure that function is called a privacy lock. Having to use a key, as opposed to just a pin of some sort means it is probably some kind of institutional lock. This would prevent just anyone with a nail or such from opening the door while someone was taking a dump. If someone WAS in trouble then an employee could use the key to open the door.
I bought a two sets of Yale locks where each set had two locking knobs and two deadbolts all keyed the same. Nice convenience that both packages were keyed the same. I liked the keys with the larger handle and when the knob was locked, it wouldn't turn. In total I spend $60 for 4 hand locks and 4 deadbolts, not the highest quality, but I lied them. When I replaced all doors in the house, I went with the Schlage Nickle and the first day I locked myself in the garage twice. lol Tough getting use to the fact where the knob still turns when locked. Funny because when I was picking up the extra Schlage set, I was debating just getting a deadbolt and a regular knob without a lock. I could return just that one, but I already had them re-key it. Such a simple thing, but after being accustomed to something for 10 years to have it just change on you really screws you up!
That is exactly what I did with the door between my garage and the house, replace the old key-in-knob lockset with a straight lever passage set. It already had a deadbolt so no need for a locking set in addition. I tried to convince my sister to do the same in her new (to her) house but as usual she didn't listen. () She had her handyman install a key-in-knob lockset (he also installed it upside down) and one day I was over visiting and she was running back and forth from the garage to the kitchen when she gave the door a yank coming into the garage. I tried to stop it but was too late and the door locked. She doesn't trust me (probably smart on her part) so I don't have a key and so we had to call her son who was about thirty miles away to come up through the afternoon commute. What made it even more interesting is that she had left her telephone in the house and I didn't have her son's number so she had to guess at the number. He didn't answer his phone, which is typical, so we had to wait until he checked his voice mail to even know if he was coming. Since we knew it would take him at least an hour we went to a sandwich shop for a bite to eat.
Entrance function differs brand to brand, usually a turnbutton inside will lock the outside handle, leaving inside unlocked for emergency escape.
Welcome to the forums but please tell me how that fascinating piece of common knowledge applies to any of the situations being discussed? Nobody is installing single-cylinder locksets with the key inside the home and the turn knob on the outside of the home.
Here's my fix I did using Tom H's method modified to work better for me. I hope he doesn't mind, but I took his idea and improved it for myself. The problem I had with your fix is the knob would sometime turn enough to open, probably because I didn't do it perfect and not necessarily a problem with your method. So here's what I did: I drilled the two 7/64 holes as you instructed. I then took 6-32 machine screws and screwed them in the holes I just drilled so it would be easier to screw them back in after I shortened them. I then screwed the proper size nut for a 6-32 screw all the way down to the bottom until it hit the screw head. Next I took my wire stripper/bolt cutter and screwed it all the way down until it bottom out to the nut and cut it. This left about 3/16 of threads, more or less. I then unscrewed the nut until there was just a few threads left before it falling off. Next, I screwed it back in the previously drilled and tapped holes in the lock about 2-3 turns which caused it to bottom out on the nut and lock the bolt in place from loosening. I did this on both sides. The flat side of the nut locked the center square post in place and it worked perfectly! Thanks to Tom H for the idea and I hope this helps other people out as well. Below is a pic of what I ended up with. The original link: Schlage Entry Door Knobs - Building Construction - Page 2 - DIY Chatroom - DIY Home Improvement Forum
who is Tom H? and how does this fix adjust the product? Please explain. Seems like an awful lot of expense and effort to go to, when purchasing the correct product from a reputeable locksmith would solve the issue once and for all without so much messing arounbd.,
Originally Posted by GlobalLocky who is Tom H? and how does this fix adjust the product? Please explain. Seems like an awful lot of expense and effort to go to, when purchasing the correct product from a reputeable locksmith would solve the issue once and for all without so much messing arounbd., All your questions are answered in his post. Seems like a good modification if, like me, you already have set(s) of this type.
Correct, Tom H is in the link at the end. While this isn't a problem for the front and back doors of my house because I would have my keys when going out those doors. However, my door from my work bench area leading into the garage is a fire rated spring loaded door that slams shut. When I am working in my garage to my work bench I don't usually have my keys as I am running back and forth to both places. I still may very well replace this locking knob with a passive knob and the dead bolt with a digital Schlage lock, but that ends up being a $150 option and my fix was with nuts and bolts I already had. With the Yale locks when I turned the knob and it wouldn't turn my thumb automatically pressed to turn the lock nub. With the Schlage, my muscle memory didn't know to turn the nub because the knob would turn in either case. Even if I went to a locksmith (Sherman's which I go to for all my specialty stuff has been around all my life, but no longer close by) I may have very well bought the same version type without knowing. In any case, I only needed to do this to one lock and as mentioned, if you own a house with a bunch of these locks, you aren't going to replace them all. This fix is a couple cents per lock and a few minute of your time. Since I use 6-32 nuts and bolts all the time, I had them. 6-32 is also the size on electrical outlet screws to box as well as computer hard disks, etc. Anyway, I was sharing a common problem many people had (That I saw anyways) and it is a simple fix instead of paying a ton of cash to replace all your knob locks. I was thinking my parents house is over 40 years old with the original locks and they act the same way as the new ones I have. It would not be worth it to replace the so many locks in his house if he wanted to do this. Me, I have 3 deadbolts and 4 locking knobs in the house and replacing the 4 locking knobset's would be costly and they may not match with what I have now.
I suppose you could hire a locksmith to repkace all your Schlage locks but this is a DIY forum so I feel your mod is more appropriate.
Tags: schlage, door, knob, locks, lock door, will lock, always unlocked, lock that, Originally Posted, outside handle, product from, series locks, that will, allow lock