Conventional ceiling grid installations are an ideal solution for basement ceilings because they allow easy access to plumbing, duct work and wiring. It is easier to remove a few tiles damaged from water leaks from above than to remove and replace drywall with all the related finishing and painting required. Ceiling tile can come in several finishes including faux tin, which is paintable and impervious to water damage.
Conventional Ceiling Grid
Conventional ceiling grids are interlocking metal frames suspended from the ceiling joists with wire. Molding or L-shaped brackets are installed around the perimeters of the room for the main runners to rest on. The cross members interlock with the main runners to form a pattern of openings that the ceiling tile drops into. The grid system will accommodate either a 2-by-4 foot tile or a 2-by-2 foot tile. The basic construction is the same.
Install Conventional Ceiling Grid Molding
This type of grid requires a minimum of 4 inches of clearance below the existing joist or ceiling for clearance to tilt the ceiling tile into place. An additional 2 inches will be required if installing full panel fluorescent ceiling lighting.
Measure from the existing ceiling or joist and mark the perimeter walls for the depth needed for the type of installation chosen. Measure in several places on each wall; use a level to connect the marks. The molding or L brackets will be nailed to this line. Nail the molding to the wall with nails, being careful not to damage the molding with hammer marks. Butt the ends of the molding together where more length is required. Do not overlap. At inside corners, run the first molding tight into the corner and butt the molding for the adjacent wall into the first. Use tin snips to miter the molding on outside corners.
Install Runners and Cross Members
Determine the spacing of the runners to avoid ending up with a narrow opening on one side of the room. The room is balanced if the spacing of the grid is the same distance from the wall on both sides of the room. Measure across the room and divide by the tile length to arrive at the number of full tiles to fit the space. Determine the perimeter gap by subtracting the sum of the panel measurement from the room measurement. For example, if the balance remaining is 20 inches, arrange the runners to leave a 10-inch opening on each wall. Start the first runner 10 inches from each wall. Follow the same procedure in the opposite direction for the cross members.
Measure out from the starting wall the determined distance for the first spacing from the wall and snap a chalk line on the ceiling or joist. This is the placement for the first runner. Measure from this line the length of the panels and snap another chalk line. Continue until all runner lines are marked.
To support the runners, screw small eye bolts into the ceiling or joist above each runner approximately 4 feet apart. Insert 16-gauge wire through the eye bolts and twist the short end around the long end two or three times. Stretch a string tightly across the room to aid in leveling the runners. Install the runners and push the end of the wires through the nearest hole in the runner and twist to hold it level with the string. The runners have openings and tabs to snap into each other on long runs. Install an additional eye bolt and support wire at these joints.
Install the cross tees by snapping into the openings in the long runners.
Install Ceiling Tile
Use a sharp utility knife to cut the ceiling tile. Always cut with the face side of the tile up. Tilt the ceiling tile with one edge up toward the ceiling and the other edge toward the flange in the ceiling grid. Carefully work the tile into place so that all four sides are flat in the grid.
Tags: ceiling joist, each wall, Measure from, across room, ceiling tile, chalk line,