Most wooden molding is installed against a flat wall or backing. However, there are some types of molding that get placed at the inside corner of a room, where the piece of wood will be put in place resting against two surfaces that come together at a 90-degree angle. Cove molding is of this type; you will frequently find it stretched around the perimeter of a room where the ceiling joins the wall. Cutting cove molding is a little bit different from cutting most other types of molding, but it is not a difficult task.
Instructions
1. Measure your room and buy some long pieces of cove molding that stretch from one corner to the other.
2. Cut the molding for a splice between two pieces that meet in the center section of a wall. This is the simplest cut to make; all you need to do is to set the saw at 45 degrees and then push the cove molding into a flush position against the back wall of the miter box. The cut is then made with the wood pushed tight against the back part of the saw. Don't forget to change the angle or reverse the next piece of molding so the back shows instead of the front when you make the second cut for the splice. That way each piece will fit into the splice with the two angles pointed in complementary directions.
3. Cut the corner angles for a 45-degree miter joint on a inside corner joint. For inside corners, push the miter saw towards your left until it is an the 45-degree mark. Bring the molding in from the left and set just enough of the wood underneath the saw so you can make a completed 45-degree angle cut and lop off just a few inches on the right side of piece of molding. Hold the molding tight in place while you do this. This piece will be the left-hand piece for the inside corner.
4. Set the saw up just the opposite for the other piece. First, turn the blade all the way to the right until you reach the 45-degree mark. Then, bring the molding in from the right, making sure you hold the cove molding against the miter box in the same manner. Now, lop off the end with the saw. You now have the angle that you need for the right-hand section of an inside corner.
5. Cut the corner angles for a 45-degree miter joint on a outside corner joint. This becomes slightly more difficult because the miter saw does reflect the actual angle, but in effect, each cut is an exact mirror opposite of the cut you actually want to make. For outside corners, push the miter saw towards your right until it is an the 45-degree mark. Now bring the molding in from the left and set just enough of the wood underneath the saw so you can make a completed 45-degree angle cut and lop off just a few inches on the right side of piece of molding. This piece will be your right-hand piece for the inside corner. Be certain the wood is not held flat against the back of the miter box but that it is placed in a manner where it evenly straddles the horizontal and vertical surfaces of the miter box. When the narrow top edge is level, you can go ahead and make your cut. Keep the piece of wood in the same position for the entire cut.
6. Cut the second piece for the outside corner. This will be the left-hand piece for the outside corner. Start by turning the saw all the way to the left until it reaches the 45-degree mark. Then bring the molding in from the left and place it so it goes just a little ways past the blade. Hold the wood with your right hand just like you did in Step 5 and make the cut. This will be the left side of the outside corner.
Tags: inside corner, 45-degree mark, molding from, outside corner, against back