Friday, October 18, 2013

Install Steel Siding

Install Steel Siding


Steel siding is one of the more difficult sidings to install. Vinyl or aluminum siding is recommended by most builders for do-it-yourself home owner projects because these two materials are lightweight and easy to use. But don't let that discourage you. Steel siding adds a certain charm to a home that other sidings do not, and you can install it on your own if you follow the directions carefully. If you choose a steel siding with a PVC finish, your siding will be maintenance free and resistant to scratches, hail and dents. Properly prepare your structure by making sure the walls are all smooth and plumb.


Instructions


1. Measure the height and width in square feet of all the walls, including gable ends, dormer sides and gambrel walls. Subtract the square footage of the garage doors and glass or sliding doors. Take the total net square feet plus 100. This is the amount of steel siding you will need in square footage.


2. Prepare your surface before installing the steel siding. Hammer in any loose nails. Replace any rotted wood. Remove all old paint buildup, old putty and caulking. If there is a low place in the wall, build it out with shims. Remove all gutter downspouts and tie back plants.


3. Attach aluminum foil underlayment as an insulator under the siding. Staple the underlayment to the walls. Make sure you choose perforated or breather underlay, which allows the passage of water vapors. Place the foil underlayment near the edges of all openings and around all corners. Overlap the material 2 inches at all sides and end joints.


4. Snap a chalk line from one end of the house to the other to determine your reference line for your starter strip. When hanging your steel siding you must make sure your lines are straight. You should also measure from the eaves or under the windows down to the bottom of the home to make sure the siding is hung parallel to the soffits.


5. Drive a nail into the center of the predrilled factory hole so that it is snug but not tight. The siding is not hammered into the wall. It is more commonly referred to as being hung on the nail. Steel siding changes shape in extreme weather conditions. If it is nailed too tight it cannot move as needed.








6. Use 2-inch galvanized steel nails for hanging steel siding. Hammer the nail in straight, never at an angle. Space the siding nails to 16-inch centers where the studs are located. Nail into every stud, but never closer than 6 inches from any panel overlap.


7. Install the starter strip all the way around the bottom of the building. Be sure to follow the chalk line. Check the starter strip with a level to make sure it is completely straight and meets evenly at all corners. The starter strip will determine the placement for each additional layer of siding so it must be installed properly.


8. Complete the installation on one wall first. Continue nailing each steel siding panel horizontally on top of the next with a 2-inch overlap. After one wall is complete, install the siding on the adjacent wall. Leave a 3/4 inch gap at the corners for installing corner caps.








9. Slip the bottom flanges of the corner cap under the butt of the siding panels. Push the cap up and firmly press into place. Make sure the butts of the corner caps are flush with the panels and secure with 2-inch nails. Place a nail through the predrilled hole on the top of the cap for best results.

Tags: starter strip, steel siding, chalk line, corner caps, foil underlayment