Using Armstrong ceiling tiles to cover an unsightly ceiling is a practical way to fix the problem. Installation is simple for a do-it-yourselfer with moderate skills. With the wide variety of Armstrong ceiling tiles available on the market today, you don't have to settle for plain white tiles. Many textures and colors are available to suit any decor. You need at least 3 inches of clearance between the and the ceiling tile frame so you can slip the tiles into the frame.
Instructions
1. Locate the joists in the ceiling with a stud finder. Mark the center of each joist with a chalk line. Most joists are 16 inches on center. If the joists are exposed, skip this step.
2. Measure the length of one of the ceiling tiles in feet. Measure the room perpendicular to the joists in feet. Divide the room's measurement by the length of the tile. If there is a remainder, divide that amount by 2. This amount is the width of the border panels. By putting two narrow rows on the outside of the room, the ceiling has a balanced look.
3. Calculate the width of a ceiling tile in feet. Measure the room parallel to the ceiling joists. Divide that amount by the tile's width. If there's a remainder, divide it by 2 to find the size of the two outer rows for this portion of the ceiling.
4. Make a level line around the perimeter of the room at the height where you plan to install the ceiling with a laser or carpenter's level. Mark the line with chalk.
5. Set perimeter molding so the bottom of the molding rest on the line you marked on the wall. Attach perimeter molding to the wall studs with nails. Take care not to damage the molding as you drive the nails into position.
6. Snap a chalk line perpendicular to the ceiling joists, following the measurements you determined in Step 2. This is where you will hang the main runners for the suspended ceiling.
7. Attach wire fasteners to the ceiling joists every 4 feet along the chalk lines you snapped perpendicular to the joists. Insert hanger wire into the eye of each wire fastener and twist the wire three times around itself to secure it in place.
8. Stretch three or four strings across the room perpendicular to the ceiling joists from the perimeter molding. Keep the string taut as you secure it. The string is your guideline for the ceiling's height as you install the main runners.
9. Set a piece of main runner onto the perimeter molding and use the chalk line on the joists as your guide. Insert a hanger wire into the hole in the main runner to suspend the runner from the ceiling. Twist the wire onto itself three times to secure it in place. Continue to work your way across the room, securing wires at 4-foot intervals. Keep the main runners aligned with your string guide. Add another piece of main runner, as necessary, by sliding the two pieces together and securing their locking system. Cut any excess off the main runner on the opposite side of the room with a pair of tin snips.
10. Place the remaining main runners in place by following the joist markings. Set any ends you cut into the perimeter molding.
11. Measure the distance for the first cross tee, according to your calculations from Step 3. Hook the cross tee into position on the main runners. Complete that row in a similar manner by crossing main runners at right angles. Set the next row of cross tees at the width of the ceiling tiles. Continue placing all of the cross tees into the main runners.
12. Tilt and insert a ceiling tile into one of the center openings on the ceiling grid. Set the tile into position. Repeat for three adjacent tiles in the center openings. If the grid is slightly off-center, shake it slightly until all four of the tiles settle into their slots.
13. Place all of the remaining ceiling tiles. Cut tiles along the outer perimeter to fit with a utility knife.
Tags: main runners, ceiling joists, ceiling tiles, perimeter molding,