Knotty pine is only one example of solid pine paneling.
Solid pine paneling is available with tongue-and-groove construction, which makes it simple to install and give walls a natural wood appearance. Light-colored solid pine paneling makes a room appear larger than dark-colored solid pine paneling. While the most common style of pine paneling is knotty pine, other types of pine are available. If you have advanced carpentry skills, you can add ceiling and wall moldings and chair rails.
Instructions
1. Hold a carpenter's level against the wall where you plan to install the paneling. Mark low spots underneath the carpenter's level. Move the level to a new location, and mark its low spots. Continue moving the level and marking low spots until you cover the entire wall.
2. Mark a horizontal line across the wall using a chalk line. Mark additional horizontal lines parallel to the first line. Place one line near, but not touching, the ceiling and another one near, but not touching, the floor. Space the additional lines about 24 inches apart.
3. Locate each stud in the wall with a stud finder. Mark the location of each stud.
4. Attach 1-by-3-inch furring strips along each horizontal line with nails hammered into the studs. Cut the furring strips to fit using a circular saw. Use the carpenter's level as you proceed to help ensure the furring strips are straight up and down, which means "plumb." Add wood shims as necessary, especially in the low spots you marked earlier.
5. Cut 1-by-3-inch furring strips to fit between the horizontal boards along each of the studs. Leave a narrow gap between the horizontal and vertical furring strips to allow for expansion and contraction. Check that the items are plumb using the carpenter's level. Add shims as necessary. Nail the furring strips in place. When you complete this procedure, a grid with plumb sides will be in place.
6. Set several pieces of furring strips along the floor as a temporary expansion joint. Set a piece of solid pine paneling with the groove facing into the corner on the furring strips. If you need to trim off any, mark how much and cut the paneling with a circular saw.
7. Lower the piece of paneling to the floor. Apply a serpentine-style layer of construction adhesive, using a caulk gun, along the back of the paneling. Do not use too much adhesive or it may ooze out of cracks.
8. Set the section of paneling in place against the wall. Pull it out and replace it, which helps to distribute the adhesive evenly. Nail finishing nails into the paneling along the corner edge.
9. Place the second piece of solid pine paneling against the wall to determine whether or not it fits. Repeat the procedure you used for construction adhesive for the first piece of paneling. Lock the tongue of the first panel in place against the groove of the second panel. Place nails through the right angle where the exposed tongue emerges from the panel face into the furring strip below. Repeat the process for other pieces of paneling until you get to the last piece of paneling.
10. Measure the wall's width. Cut excess length from the final piece of paneling's tongue side. Apply construction adhesive in the same way you did for earlier pieces of paneling, and put the last piece of paneling in place. Use finishing nails to attach the cut side to the wall.
11. Remove the wooden furring strip scraps from the floor below the paneling.
12. Measure and cut crown molding and shoe molding trim. Attach the trim to the top and bottom of the paneling using finishing nails.
Tags: furring strips, piece paneling, paneling, carpenter level, pine paneling, solid pine